Hydrangea paniculata: planting and care

Characteristics of varieties

Breeders have bred a lot of varieties of this plant species. But still, those that grow beautifully in the gardens of Russian flower growers remain popular.

Climbing rose Red Rambler

This variety of roses belongs to the park. It got its name from the fiery red color of the flowers. The flowers are rather large - 7-8 cm in diameter. The petals are slightly wavy and not too double. The plant blooms with single flowers that never gather in inflorescences. Its distinguishing feature is re-flowering. And every time it becomes more abundant. Also, this Rambler Rose variety has a mild delicate aroma.

Important! The variety is resistant to various kinds of diseases and perfectly tolerates moderate winter frosts. There is no need to pinch plants

Reacts perfectly to the applied fertilizers.

The whiskers of roses are not too long, only 1-1.5 meters, with dark green foliage that contrasts beautifully with the bright colors. The width of an adult bush reaches 80 cm. Perfect for decorating a variety of arched structures.

Climbing rose Red Rambler

Rose Crimson Rambler

A distinctive feature of this variety is its rather rapid growth, as a result of which the plant intensively covers the facades of buildings. It grows best on the southern sides of buildings, but it also tolerates partial shade well. The average height of the lashes is about 4-4.5 meters.

The flowers are small, about 4-5 cm in diameter. But they are able to form an inflorescence from 40-50 roses at once. Thanks to this, the inflorescences seem to be simply huge. The flowers have a purple-red color, which makes them even more spectacular against the background of dark green foliage. The plant of this variety blooms once, and the period lasts from 30 to 45 days. The external beauty completely overshadows the complete absence of aroma.

On a note! The necessary growing conditions include the abundance of sunlight and the lightness of the soil, which is able to retain moisture. However, this variety tolerates different weather conditions quite well. In late autumn, the Crimsons need to be sheltered, in this state they will perfectly survive winter frosts down to minus 30-33 ° С, which allows them to be grown in almost any region of Russia.

Rose Albrighton Rambler

Rose Albrighton Rambler is one of the last cultivars to be bred (2013). Its creator is the famous rose breeder D. Austin. Rose The Albrighton Rambler has a pink hue, sometimes even cream. Flower shape - bowl-shaped, rosette. The average size of the diameter of the flowers is about 4-5 cm. Flowers are not collected in inflorescences, but are arranged one at a time.

The Albrighton Rambler is a rose with a fairly short flowering period, the flowers are in bloom for only a few days. In general, flowering continues throughout the summer season.

Important! Albrighton Rambler is one of those rare ramblers that can bloom several times. The height of each adult bush reaches 3.5-4 meters. In the first year after planting, it is able to grow by 1-1.5 meters. Liana bends well and has a small number of thorns

Roses of this variety have a light musky aroma.

The height of each adult bush reaches 3.5-4 meters. In the first year after planting, it is able to grow by 1-1.5 meters. Liana bends well and has a small number of thorns. Roses of this variety have a light musky aroma.

If the plant is provided with proper care, then the problems associated with diseases can be forgotten. The main advantage of this variety is that its flowers are not afraid of rains at all, and the petals remain in place.

These are the most popular varieties grown by gardeners. Several dozen varieties of rambler roses have been bred, which have different colors. There are roses, the petals of which are white, and there are those that are painted in a blue tint.

Rose Albrighton Rambler

Description

Hydrangea is oak-leaved, unpretentious, resistant to harsh climatic conditions.The shrub looks noble both during the flowering period and afterwards. The branched shrub belongs to large, most varieties reach a height of 2 meters. Hydrangea has oak-leaved textured leaves with a rough surface. Their shape vaguely resembles oak, however, the leaves are pointed at the edges.

The color of the foliage of hydrangea is oak-leaved in summer, like many shrubs, green. But it radically changes to a rich burgundy shade with the arrival of autumn, making culture a wonderful addition to the garden. Its flowering period is quite long and can last all summer. Small white flowers are collected in cone-shaped inflorescences. In the fall, they may turn a little pink.

Gardeners note the following advantages of culture:

• resistance to pests;
• disease resistance;
• cold resistance;
• good tolerance to dry weather;
• a wide range of varieties;
• abundant and long flowering.

There are also some disadvantages:

• exactingness to the correct execution of planting work;
• exactingness to the presence of light in the designated area;
• poor tolerance of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Growing problems

Since pink hydrangea is a flowering shrub, the main problem that worries gardeners is “problems” with flowering. Sometimes the plant gives only foliage, at first glance it is not clear why this happened. The reasons for this phenomenon can be very diverse: unsuitable environmental conditions, rare feeding or even neglect of them, and others. But the most likely reason for the lack of flowering is heavy pruning. If you overdo it with the spring "haircut", then the hydrangea can intensively engage in the development of its own root system, perceiving pruning as a signal of external unfavorable conditions

It is also important to remember that transplanted plants may not bloom in the first year, as they recover from stress.

Hydrangea leaves often turn yellow. This problem appears as a result of a lack or excess of light or moisture, too low acidity of the soil, drafts or insufficient amounts of nutrients in the soil. It is rather difficult to resolve the issue with yellowing of the leaves, because it is not always possible to immediately determine the reason. Therefore, you need to gradually try to improve the growing conditions for the shrub and observe the foliage. If any measure has shown effectiveness, it is necessary to remember the cause of the problem with the leaves and neutralize the negative factor.

Pink hydrangea is resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it suffers from powdery mildew, from which the leaves also turn yellow and become overgrown with a whitish bloom. You can deal with it in the old and proven way - Bordeaux liquid. This shrub can be chosen by slugs. A layer of pine sawdust mulch and industrial remedies against these pests will save them from them. In pursuit of a rapid color change, many gardeners too often water the hydrangea with substances that change the color of the inflorescences. It must be remembered that the abundant application of aluminum or chalk, as well as other catalysts for changing the color of flowers, can harm the roots of the plant.

For information on how to grow a pink hydrangea, see the next video.

Bush care

• Watering. This is a cornerstone in the care of Levan's hydrangea: this variety will not survive drought, as it prefers to grow in constantly moist soil. So be prepared to water it frequently. Watering should not be plentiful, but always frequent (especially in hot summer). On average, such a bush is watered once a week.
• Mulching. To prevent the soil around the hydrangea from losing precious moisture, lay it with sawdust or peat, and with a layer of at least 6 cm.
• Nutrition. In the first two years after planting, you should not feed the bush. But after that you can use organic matter, urea, granular superphosphate or potassium sulfate.Top dressing is introduced several times a year: the first nutrition is in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season of the bush, the second is when the bud formation process ends, the third and fourth - in the summer, during flowering. There is also an opinion that it is necessary to apply top dressing for flowering Levana every two weeks.

Important: before and after feeding, water the bush with clean water, this will protect the roots from burning out. In the first half of summer, give nitrogenous mixtures, in the second - potash and phosphorus (they will not only improve flowering, but also eliminate the risk of rot, and also prepare the bush for wintering)

Do I need to somehow cover the bush for the winter? Since hydrangea is frost-hardy, no. In the middle lane, this culture hibernates without problems. But if you have just planted a young bush, it is better to cover it for the first year (or even two).

Does this culture need pruning?

Yes! Thanks to this procedure, the bush will turn out to be more beautiful, thicker.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, at the beginning of March, since it is important to be in time before the leaves bloom. Although if your region has too snowy winters, the branches of plants often do not withstand such a "fur coat" and break, cut the hydrangea in the fall

After that, the vegetation process will begin at the bush, it will "drive out" the young branches, on which lush brushes will soon bloom.

What will you get after this procedure? In this video, the girl shows the result of spring pruning of her panicle hydrangea:

What difficulties can you face?

• The leaves brighten: this is chlorosis. The bush lacks iron. This disease can start due to excess humus or lime in the soil. Treatment: 2 watering with a solution of potassium nitrate (take 20 g per 0.5 bucket per bush), and 3 days later - watering with a solution of ferrous sulfate (the proportion is the same).
• Rapidly expanding oily yellow specks on leaves: downy mildew. This diagnosis will be confirmed if there are yellow spots on the bottom of the leaves, and / or the spots begin to darken over time. If the bush is sick, it means that the air humidity is critically high for it. Treatment: mix 15 g of copper sulfate, 130 g of green soap (in this case, we do not mean green toilet soap, but a special horticultural liquid), a bucket of water. Treat the bush.
• Yellow mosaic spots or stripes on leaves: mosaic disease. This is a very serious problem. Cut off the affected branches immediately, but do not throw them into the compost (otherwise, start an epidemic on the site), and burn them without postponing. If you overlooked and the whole bush got sick, it will have to be destroyed.
• The appearance of a green aphid. Buy anabasine sulfate. Mix 20 g of this substance and a bucket of water. Treat the bush, repeat the procedure after a week.
• The appearance of a spider mite. Buy thiophos. Drop 7 g of this substance into a bucket of water.

How to care?

Caring for this variety is not particularly difficult. It is necessary to follow the basic recommendations of gardeners. Procedures such as timely watering, feeding and pruning will be required. Magic Sweet Summer, like other hydrangeas, is a moisture-loving plant. This means that it will need watering throughout the season. If the flower is grown in a pot, it should be watered when the ground is slightly dry on top. Drying out completely should be avoided.

Tap water must be defended, but it is best to use rainwater or thawed water. An adult plant needs to be watered regularly once every 2-3 days in the morning or evening. Everyone will need at least 20 liters of water. Spraying will help to saturate the leaves with moisture; it can be carried out weekly.

It is best to feed the plant after the watering procedure. Both mineral and organic formulations will be better absorbed in liquid form. The first feeding is carried out in early spring, the subsequent ones - in summer. If there is an excess of lime in the soil, it is necessary to add sawdust, pine needles or peat to it. Spraying with gibberellin will help speed up flowering.

After the leaves fall off, the hydrangea should be pruned. Not only dried and damaged shoots are removed, but also dried inflorescences. In March, last year's branches will need to be cut to 4-5 buds.

Planting hydrangeas in open soil

• Site selection. This shrub can be planted in the lowlands, and the damp the earth is there, the less hassle you will have with the hydrangea. Moreover, the hydrangea should not be too shaded, it loves the sun. But even in partial shade, the inflorescences of the bush do not lose their decorative effect.
• Priming. An acidic, non-limestone earth is suitable for this decorative culture. If your soil is not acidic, you can bring it to the "standards" of hydrangeas using a peat or coniferous pad, which is placed in the ground when planting seedlings. In addition to creating acidity, it will additionally nourish the bush.

After, when watering, you can use not ordinary, but acidified water (with citric acid or the juice of this citrus). The more acidic the earth in which the hydrangea grows, the brighter, whiter its flowers will be. If the acidity of the soil is medium, get creamy "panicles".

Drop off time. As a rule, it is spring. But if you bought a containerized seedling, you can transplant it outdoors in summer and early fall.

• Interval. If you decide to plant several hydrangea bushes at once, leave a meter or even 1.5 m between them.
• The depth of the pit. To root a hydrangea seedling, you need 60 cm.

Remember: the roots of hydrangeas grow very wide, so leave a wide circle near the trunk when planting. And if you later want to loosen the soil around the plant, do not immerse the tool deeply.

What is the best way to use panicle hydrangea in landscaping? This culture can be beautifully "made friends" with coniferous trees or bushes, evergreen crops. It is also a good specimen (tree-like single ornamental plant).

How does the plant reproduce?

The seeds of this crop are sown in March.

Cuttings are separated and rooted in June-July, that is, they should be young branches that have grown in a given year. Although I also heard the opinion that it is worth cutting cuttings in the fall, store them in a bag of slightly damp sand in the cellar all winter, and in February plant them in a pot with a mixture of turf, peat and sand. Germinate them under a greenhouse (package) in a warm room. They will take root in such conditions in a month. Such a cutting is transferred to open ground at the end of summer.

Working with cuttings of hydrangea is quite troublesome, therefore layering is considered the most effective method of propagation of this shrub.

In addition, mature shrubs can be split.

Care

Oaky hydrangea, as a rule, is not picky in terms of care. Anyone can grow this shrub, even a novice gardener. How often you have to water the plant is influenced by:

• season;
• the amount of precipitation.

In the spring and autumn periods, the soil does not need moisture. In hot summer, oakleaf hydrangea is watered 1-2 times. After that, it is recommended to slightly loosen the ground, carry out mulching.

At the initial cultivation, the crop needs feeding about once a month. In the period from the first growing season to the appearance of the buds, an infusion of mullein is used, and during the budding period itself - phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which additionally contributes to the development of the culture and its rich flowering. The culture must be pruned to get rid of damaged and dry branches, shoots directed to the inside of the crown. During autumn pruning, old inflorescences must be removed.

Before the first frost, small shrubs are moved to pots, placed in warm and dark places. In winter, they fall into a dormant state, so the plants are watered less often. Oak-leaved hydrangea wakes up again in the middle of spring. Therefore, it will be possible to transfer it to the light, start watering it with warm water and apply fertilizers. If the winter is expected to be mild, the young plant can be sprinkled with earth.Fortified shrubs are covered in the interval from mid to late autumn, bending the branches to the ground and covering with spruce branches.

Reproduction

Hydrangea can be propagated in different ways, however, the most common are:

• cuttings;
• sowing seeds;
• use of layering.

Of course, planting seeds is a very painstaking and difficult work, which not every gardener will undertake, and therefore this method is considered less relevant, especially in cold conditions. It is almost impossible to grow a full-fledged plant from seeds in Siberia in the open field. Unless you start growing hydrangeas indoors in pots, and then plant them in the ground, but this will take several years.

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is using a rooted cutting. Cuttings are cut from lignified shoots of the last year; in the summer season, you can take green cuttings. They can be rooted in greenhouse conditions or outdoors. If we are talking about the latter, then the cutting should be covered with a film and create a greenhouse effect, only in this way the plant will be accepted.

If a young plant is planted, then it is not recommended to leave it for the winter for the first year, most likely, it will not survive. It is best to dig it up and move it to a cool room, and then plant it again until it gets stronger.

The plant is propagated by layering only at the beginning of spring, before the first buds have blossomed. This method is more painstaking than cuttings. The earth is loosened around the main bush, and small depressions are made (no more than 2 cm), where the lower lateral branches are then pinned, covered with earth. By the end of summer, shoots form on the established layers, after which young plants begin to spud and take care of them. This method is least suitable for Siberian conditions, because young plants should be dug out before the onset of cold weather.

Chlorosis on flowers

Chlorosis of hydrangeas

Chlorosis of garden hydrangea occurs primarily due to a lack of iron in the soil. If you do not take any measures, then the plant, as a result of metabolic disorders, begins to weaken, its leaves turn yellow and brighten, although the veins remain green. It is advisable to take measures against chlorosis even before it announces itself, because it is not for nothing that disease prevention is the key to the health of both humans and plants. If the hydrangea shows signs of chlorosis, you need to immediately treat it on the leaves with Iron Chelate or Agrecol, Micro Fe, Brexil, Ferovit and Ferrylen preparations. If the disease has gone far, iron-containing preparations are applied at the root. A good effect in the treatment of hydrangea from chlorosis is given by two or three watering of the plant's trunk circle with a solution of 40 g of potassium nitrate or ferrous sulfate in 1 liter of water.

Chlorosis of petunias

The signs of chlorosis in petunia are the same as in any other plant: the leaves begin to turn yellow, while the veins remain green, the edges of the leaves curl, the leaves fall off, and new ones develop small, the flowers change shape, the roots of the plant begin to die off and the tops of the shoots dry out ... At the first symptoms, start adding citric acid to the water for irrigation (half a teaspoon of acid per 1 liter of water), but if there is no change for the better, add half a teaspoon of ferrous sulfate to the solution. With this composition, the soil is watered, and not the petunia itself, until the new leaves begin to develop healthy. To speed up the healing process, remove all buds from the petunia before they open. Instead of ferrous sulfate, you can use other preparations containing iron. Some gardeners also recommend sprinkling the plant on the leaves, but this advice causes caution: petunia does not tolerate even raindrops well, what then can we say about a solution of trace elements?

If chlorosis is of a viral nature, you will have to say goodbye to petunias.

Chlorosis of roses

Smooth yellowing of the leaves and bright green veins on them are a sign of chlorosis in roses. If you did not overdo it with chemical fertilizers under roses last season, then most likely the reason for such changes is iron deficiency. What's interesting: of the two bushes growing next to each other, one may lack iron, while the neighboring one feels great.

Chlorosis treatment should be started in the spring, before the growing season: mullein or humus and the missing element are introduced into the soil under the bushes. In the future, roses affected by chlorosis are not fed with nitrogen fertilizers, watered very poorly and foliar fertilizers are carried out with complex fertilizers in cloudy weather until the plant recovers. During this period, do not make radical rejuvenating pruning of the bush.

Flower care

Planting a hydrangea on your plot, even in the right place, is not a 100% guarantee of success. A little more attention should be paid to the plant, and then it will thank the gardener with an attractive appearance and abundant flowering.

How much and how to water

A small amount of water in the soil will affect in the most negative way not only the attractiveness of flowering, but also the health of the shrub. Therefore, you need to monitor how much and when water is applied to the soil.

Important! If the summer is dry, then the amount of water for irrigation needs to be increased. The same must be done when buds begin to form on the bush.

Top dressing

From the moment of planting and over the next two years, hydrangea does not require fertilization in the soil. But with the onset of 3 years, it is necessary to use mineral fertilizers and organic matter.

Note! It is advisable to apply minerals in any form in the spring, before budding begins. You can choose any complex formulations that can be purchased in specialized stores

This is done when the plant just needs support.

You can choose any complex formulations that can be purchased in specialized stores. This is done when the plant just needs support.

But there are times when the bush starts to hurt. And this is not due to parasites, fungi or pests, but to a lack of nutrients in the soil. To avoid this, you need to carefully look at your Magic Fire hydrangea.

There is not enough nitrogen in the soil if:

• The plant grows poorly.
• The shoots are weak.
• The leaves turn yellow, and the progression goes from bottom to top.
• Old leaves wither, turn yellow and fall off.

Too much nitrogen will also affect the plant:

• The leaves will begin to curl upward and become too dark green.
• The leaf plate becomes too sluggish.
• The trunk is weakening.

With an excess of phosphorus:

• Stains form on the lower leaf plates, they can also curl.
• The apical leaves burn out.

With a lack of phosphorus:

• The plant shows stunted growth.
• The bottom sheet becomes darker in comparison to all the others.
• Red or purple areas may appear on the leaf blade.
• The same effect can be seen on the stems.

When there is too much potassium:

• The leaves are chlorotic.
• The apical lamina becomes brown.
• Spots appear on the lower leaves and they become shriveled.

With potassium deficiency:

• The foliage becomes brittle and brittle.
• Leafy shoots are stretched too vigorously.
• Yellow and necrotic dead patches may appear on the cuttings.

It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the leaf plate and shoots. They can tell a lot.

As soon as features appear on them, it is worth paying attention to this and taking effective measures.

Organic fertilizers should be applied approximately once a month. For this, it is best to use manure or any plant-based fertilizer. For example, you can use a decoction or infusion of nettle.

Additional Information! When the clusters of inflorescences are formed, it is necessary to loosen the soil intensively enough. This is done to a depth of at least 10 cm. In this case, it is advisable to mulch the root circle.

Shrub pruning

Shrub pruning is carried out for the following purposes:

1. Cut off faded shoots.
2. Form a bush.
3. Prepare it for winter.

Hydrangea pruning scheme

Description of hydrangea Candelite

The Candelite hydrangea variety (Hydrangea paniculata Candlelight) was bred by scientists from Holland. The plant got its name from its appearance, reminiscent of the light of a burning candle (English candle - "candle", light - "light"). If you translate the Latin name according to the rules, you get the Candlllight panicle hydrangea.

Hydrangea in the garden

The height of the shrub rarely exceeds 1.5 m, the length of the trunk is 60 cm. The diameter of the flowering spreading crown can reach 2 meters.

Conical large inflorescences include many sterile small flowers as well as small flowers (fruiting). The fruits are small capsules in which the seeds are stored. Despite the fact that Candelite loves the sun, an area with light partial shade would be an ideal landing site.

The soil should be chosen moderately moist, acidic and always drained. Despite the fact that this is a frost-resistant variety, young bushes should be covered for the winter.

The culture refers to ornamental shrubs with an unusual color. Flowering continues until the first frost. Throughout the season, hydrangea pleases the owner's eye and brings pleasure to the household.

Description of inflorescences and leaves:

• The leaves are elliptical with small denticles and prominent veins. The color is deep dark green.
• The color of the inflorescences changes over the season: during flowering - yellowish-green, at the height of the season - golden or bright yellow, in autumn - pinkish or reddish.

For reference! Candelite panicle hydrangea blooms magnificently, effectively and brightly, thanks to which it was awarded a silver medal at one of the exhibitions (2013).

Application:

• The plant is widely used for indoor decoration. A properly dried branch will stay in the vase for a long time without shedding.
• Due to their spectacularity and originality, bushes are often used in landscape design. Looks great as a stand-alone plant, or in the vicinity of other ornamental grasses and shrubs.
• The variety is widespread among amateur gardeners, summer residents and professionals. Florists love to plant bushes because of the possibility of creating beautiful live bouquets, as well as dry compositions.

For reference! In Russia, the variety is called differently: panicle hydrangea Candlelight, Candy Light, Candy Light, Kendlight, Candlelight.

Reproduction of hydrangeas

Two methods of reproduction are used - cuttings or, if the bush is large, seedlings (organized by dividing it). In this case, the soil around the bush is well moistened, 15 centimeters from the stems are made with a pitchfork, then the bush is very carefully removed from the hole. The roots must be washed from the soil. The bush is divided with a sharp knife. After cutting the ends of the shoots, its separated parts are planted in a permanent place.

The most popular way of propagation of these wonderful plants among gardeners is cuttings. First, you need to cut off a few shoots, put them in water and immediately cut the cuttings. Remove the tip as it is not suitable for grafting. The remaining part of the shoot is divided into parts with a knife so that there are at least two pairs of leaves on each segment.

Prepared cuttings are immersed in a root stimulant solution, being careful not to get this product on the leaves. After the roots appear, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.

All types and varieties of hydrangeas are beautiful, bright and very expressive flowers. They are great for any garden. Caring for them does not take much time and effort, which makes them attractive and interesting for gardeners.