Hydrangea bobo

Caring for panicle hydrangea

This panicle hydrangea does not tolerate a transplant very well, so when planting, you should choose a permanent place carefully. The site should be open and well-lit, but at the same time protected from drafts. Light shading of Bobo varietal hydrangea is allowed.

Watering a flower

Bobo hydrangea is described as a drought tolerant plant. But, despite this, in a dry and hot summer, the flower needs regular abundant watering.

Water the plant with soft, preferably rainwater. If tap water is used, then it must first be given time to settle and warm up.

Attention! Water the hydrangea once a week.

How and how much to feed

According to the description of the Bobo hydrangea and the reviews of experienced flower growers, it turns out that the plant is almost impossible to grow without timely and repeated feeding. Only by saturating the soil with all the necessary substances and components can a long and lush flowering be achieved.

It is recommended to use fertilizers that are rich in phosphorus and potassium for feeding.

In the summer, you should use funds aimed at intensive flowering, and in the fall it is best to feed the flower with superphosphate.

Composition with panicle hydrangea

Shrub pruning

Hydrangea paniculata Bobo is not a very large plant. Therefore, without trimming, of course, it will not disappear, but its decorative characteristics will noticeably decrease.

Formative pruning is done to keep the plant looking well-groomed. It is she who will help to avoid sloppiness and violation of compactness.

If you do not cut the panicle hydrangea, then flowering in a couple of three years will become rare, the inflorescences themselves will be small and inconspicuous. With the help of pruning, old branches are removed from the plant, which limit the intensity of flowering, do not allow new shoots to develop.

Pruning is also necessary to rejuvenate the flower. It is these activities that help make the plant healthy and maintain its youth. When pruning, broken, damaged, as well as diseased and frozen branches are removed.

Note! Pruning is not intended to reduce the volume of the plant. Pruning hydrangeas is best done in the spring.

It is as a result of the measures taken that recovery processes are launched, and the growth of new healthy shoots is also activated.

Pruning hydrangeas is best done in the spring. It is as a result of the measures taken that recovery processes are launched, and the growth of new healthy shoots is activated.

The pruning procedure should be carried out as early as possible. The most important thing is to have time before the moment when sap flow begins and the kidneys wake up

Particular attention should be paid to the weather factor. We must wait for the moment when stable warm weather is established.

At the same time, it is also impossible to tighten too much, since late pruning can lead to the fact that the plant will bloom only the next year.

Border decoration with hydrangea

Fight disease

In fact, the Polar Bear hydrangea rarely gets sick. If this does happen, the reasons may be:

  • wrong choice of soil and site for planting;
  • poor care, excess or lack of fertilizers;
  • excess moisture, contributing to the development of the fungus;
  • too dense plantations.

One of the most common hydrangea diseases is chlorosis. This insidious ailment is the result of a lack of nutrients in the soil. Depleted soil leads to the fact that the leaves turn very yellow, and the plants become weak. Such drugs as "Antichlorosis" and "Chelate" will help to cure the bushes.

In addition to chlorosis, rot can also affect the hydrangea. With white rot, shoots and foliage become brown, and the roots rot. Fungicides will help well in the treatment. Gray rot is more dangerous for the culture. The stems become watery and may even have holes in them. Gray rot progresses on rainy and humid days, covering an ever larger perimeter of the site. To get rid of the misfortune, diseased parts are removed and burned, healthy plants are sprayed with "Fundazol".

In addition, panicle hydrangea can also be susceptible to powdery mildew and septoria. Like rot, these diseases are fungal in origin and are difficult to treat. To avoid any dominance of the fungus, it is necessary to prophylactically treat the plants with fungicides.

However, if there is at least some chance with the fungus, then there is hardly anything to help with viral diseases. Ring spot will be one of the main diseases. It can occur because the material was not tested during planting, the plant was cut off with an infected pruner, and much more. With spotting, spots form on the leaves, subsequently the foliage curls and dies. Such a plant will not bloom. Unfortunately, it must be destroyed.

As for pests, snails, spider mites and aphids are especially annoying in this case.

  • Snails eat absolutely all parts of the plant, adore moisture and shade. Many gardeners collect them by hand, but you can also put bowls with special preparations that will scare away intruders.
  • The tick braids the foliage with the finest cobwebs. In the early stages, a soap solution helps against it; in advanced cases, only strong insecticides will be useful.
  • Aphids not only suck out all the juices from the hydrangea, they are also a carrier of diseases. Soap solution will also help against such a pest, as well as the "Akarin" and "Commander" products.

Bobo

Dwarf variety Bobo in 2011 at the flower show in Belgium received the award "Best variety". During the abundant and prolonged flowering of this hydrangea, the color of its petals changes from white-yellow to pale pink.

Due to its low growth, the Bobo hydrangea is suitable for growing in containers that can be placed on the balcony or summer terrace. It is desirable that this be a semi-shaded place, since in the bright sun the hydrangea inflorescences become smaller

At the same time, it is important that the bush is protected from gusty winds.

Appointment

Bush height (cm)

Bush width (cm)

Flowering period

Peculiarities

70

50

July to September

Plant

winter hardy,

but the roots

young bushes

for the winter you need

mulch.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Japanese spirea or meadowsweet, as it was called in the old days, will delight you with intense growth and abundant flowering, if from the moment you buy a seedling, you gradually do everything right. An important role is played by the preparation of the material for planting:

  • With a closed root system. Remove the seedlings from the container, water abundantly, inspect the root system for the presence of hardened lumps of soil, if fossils are found, place them in a container with water for 1-2 hours.
  • With an open root system. Inspect the roots of the seedlings, remove damaged and too long parts (the cut angle should be even), shorten the ground part by 1/3.

After completing the preparation, you can start planting. For this, a hole is prepared (50 by 50 cm.), A seedling is carefully planted in it. The soil should be rich, it is recommended to select a place with plantings of spirea in an area well-lit by the sun. In order for the shrub to grow and develop normally, it is necessary to fill the bottom with the following mixture before planting: 2 parts of grain land and one part of peat and sand.

Reproduction by layering

If it is not possible to purchase new seedlings and you already have a spirea bush that you want to multiply, then check out a fairly simple method of propagation by layering.It is very reliable and does not take a long time for the gardener. The whole process takes place in the spring, at a time when leaves begin to bloom on the plant. You need to select healthy side branches, bend them to the ground, secure them with a hairpin and sprinkle them with earth. It is necessary to ensure that they grow horizontally, not vertically.

Caring for layering is not difficult, the main thing is to make sure that the soil around the bush does not dry out. The soil should always be moist, but you cannot overdo it by flooding the plant with water until puddles form. In winter, the bends need shelter from dry foliage. Having done everything right, the next year you can safely plant out the young bushes formed from the layers. In order for a young spirea to develop correctly and quickly, it is recommended to remove the first inflorescences.

Dividing the bush

To propagate the spirea using division, you need to select for this method only bushes that have reached 4-5 years. Young plants are too weak, dividing, they can simply be "killed".

The procedure for dividing a bush is very simple.

During leaf fall, carefully dig out a bush from the ground and thoroughly rinse the root system. After that, using a sharp pruner, divide the roots into 2-3 parts.

Each of the parts should have an excellent root lobe and 3-4 strong shoots, so that you have enough strength to take root in a new place.

Seed propagation

Spirea seeds are collected and dried well. In the spring, we sow the planting material in prepared soil (peat - earthen mixture). At the end of June, the grown seedlings are ready for planting in open ground, but before "resettling" the plants must pinch the main root. Thanks to this, the shrub will develop faster, as a result, a strong, healthy Japanese spirea will grow.

A plant grown from seeds for 3-4 years will delight with its lush flowering. For all its simplicity, seed reproduction has its drawback. The fact is that with this method varietal characteristics are not preserved.

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