Purple miracle in your garden

Types and varieties

Of the nine known types of wisteria, two are most common. They are the most decorative and are used in gardens, parks, botanical gardens in many subtropical countries. A capricious liana does not tolerate severe cold weather, therefore, in some climatic zones, it does not grow.

Flower brush of Chinese wisteria

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis) is a densely leafy liana that rises up to 15-20 m. Young leaves are pubescent, and more mature ones have a smooth leaf blade. Light lilac or lilac flowers form loose clusters up to 30 cm long. There are also terry garden forms with a milky white corolla.

In the "binge" flowering looks like a fragrant flower cascade with the simultaneous blooming of all inflorescences. With the appearance of the first leaves, flowering begins, which continues throughout the summer. There are varieties that bloom twice: at the beginning and at the end of summer. The inflorescences are framed with beautiful feathery leaves, which gives the wisteria an additional decorative effect.

Chinese wisteria feels good in technogenic, urban conditions, transferring dust and gas pollution. There are cases when it survived frosts in winter to t = -20C, but for a short time.

Wisteria abundantly flowering

Abundantly flowering or multi-flowered wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), which is also called Japanese (its homeland is the Japanese Islands), grows to medium size: its length is 8-10m. This is compensated by the large length of leaf blades (up to 40 cm), a large number of violet-blue inflorescences and their impressive shapes.

Flowering begins when the leaves bloom, but with a delay of 2-3 weeks from the Chinese wisteria. Gradual blooming of flowers from the base of the brush to its apex is characteristic. Flowering continues until mid-June, for some varieties, another formation of buds is possible in July-August.

Breeders have bred garden forms with a different range of colors and terry forms. A variegated form has also been created, which is distinguished by variegated leaves. Known frost-resistant varieties that survive at t = -23C.

Compared with Chinese wisteria, this species is interesting for its long decorative effect, since after flowering, the vine looks beautiful due to its rugged, pointed leaves.

Flower tunnel from wisteria

Other types of wisteria include:

• Fine (Wisteria venusta) with white or purple flowers. The 10-meter liana blooms from May to June. Forms medium-sized inflorescences
• Shrub (Wisteria frutescens) is shrouded in a violet-blue cloud and stretches up to 12 m.This species has been inhabiting the Crimean coast for a long time and is sometimes grown in a container as a standard tree
• Japanese (Wisteria japonica) is distinguished by the white color of racemose inflorescences. It grows on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, but is not as beautiful and winter-hardy in comparison with other species
• Large-bristled (Wisteria macrostachys), which served as the "parent" of the Blue Moon litter. Flowering occurs in early June and lasts up to 2 weeks. During this period, it is strewn with blue inflorescences up to 25 cm in length. Its distinctive feature is its high frost resistance: an adult plant can withstand temperatures up to -37C without shelter.

To fully appreciate the beauty of wisteria and admire the "flower waterfalls", you need to visit the wisteria garden in Japan: Ashikaga, about. Honshu. This is an impressive sight that will be remembered for a long time.

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Caring for wisteria in the garden

How to grow wisteria.

From spring to late summer, wisteria requires moderate watering so that the soil under it is always slightly damp, but by no means wet. If it is spring without rains, then you will have to water harder, because the buds may crumble, and you will not see the flowers for which the plant was planted.From mid-September, watering is gradually reduced. In order for wisteria to bloom on time and abundantly, it is fed once a week during the active growing season, alternating liquid mineral fertilizers (Kemira-Lux, for example) with organic ones (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is useful to water the wisteria with chalk water once a season (100 g of chalk per bucket of water). When the flowers begin to fade, remove the faded inflorescences. In addition, you will have to prune dry branches, tie and guide the shoots so they don't fall and grow in the right direction. Before the onset of winter, you need to sprinkle the root rosette high, remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the trunk circle, as is done with climbing roses, preparing them for wintering, and then sprinkle with dry leaves and cover with spunbond or lutrasil. You can not do all this, but if there is no snow in winter, wisteria can freeze.

Blooming wisteria.

When does wisteria bloom? Chinese wisteria blooms at the age of three, and Japanese wisteria at the age of ten, so wisteria is a plant for those who can wait. Wisteria of Chinese varieties blooms since April, and all the buds open at the same time. Wisteria blooms profusely from May to June. Make sure that there is no excess nitrogen in the soil, otherwise the wisteria will grow greens, but will not bloom.

Pruning wisteria.

Prune wisteria to stimulate flowering and to form a plant. To form a standard tree, one strong shoot is chosen, and the rest are removed. If you grow wisteria as a climbing plant, then it is advisable to remove the abundantly growing side shoots so that the wisteria does not expend energy on overgrowing greens, but sends them to the formation of buds. Pruning wisteria in spring is to remove the young shoots sticking out so that their foliage does not hide the flower clusters from view during flowering. In addition, a young lateral annual branch of wisteria can give an inflorescence this year only if you shorten it to 30 cm. 20 cm. However, try not to get carried away with the process, otherwise you can deprive yourself of the pleasure of seeing the lush bloom of wisteria.

Reproduction of wisteria.

We have already described in this article the propagation of wisteria by the seed method. It is worth adding that many of the sprouted and even grown seedlings may never give flowers - no one knows why this happens. But we have repeatedly told our readers that seed propagation is unreliable and it is much better to use vegetative propagation methods. Wisteria propagates most easily by layering. To do this, in the spring, a one-year shoot is chosen, an oblique incision is made in the middle of its length, the shoot is bent and laid with an incision on a pot with a clay-sod substrate, the outlet is fixed in this position and added dropwise, leaving the top of the shoot free. It will be possible to separate the rooted cut from the mother plant only next spring.

In various publications they write that it is possible to propagate wisteria by cuttings or grafting on the roots, but I do not know anyone who could actually do this, but the layering took root in me.

Pests and diseases of wisteria.

Sometimes wisteria is occupied by aphids or clover mites. Aphids are destroyed with an insecticide, and ticks - with an acaricidal preparation. If wisteria grows in alkaline soil, chlorosis can affect it, from which its leaves turn yellow. In the fight against the disease, root feeding of wisteria with iron salts is used.

Dieffenbachia and aglaonema: differences

Both plants belong to a huge family called Aroids. Aglaonema is considered a relative of Dieffenbachia. Not surprising, because they are very similar in description. But there are some differences that make it possible to identify a specific plant variety.

Comparative characteristics

Aglonema is a tropical plant that is known for being easy to care for. A shaded room is suitable for him, where direct sunlight will not fall. Watering is recommended with settled water.

Interesting! In contact with foliage, care should be taken, since the juice from the leaves is poisonous. It can irritate the skin. For the same reason, the flower should be kept away from small children and animals.

Growing bryozoan subulate from seeds for seedlings

Moss propagates by seeds and division. The seed method is longer.

I prefer vegetative. The branchy, creeping stems of Irish moss take root easily. I cut off a piece of moss with a knife, try to grab more soil with roots and transplant.

I wish you every success in growing this wonderful plant!

Reproduction of bryozoans is usually carried out by dividing the sod. This method is the most convenient and fastest. In spring, part of the dense growth should be separated from the main plant with a scoop. The roots are located in the top layer of the soil, so you don't have to dig deep. The sod can be cut into small enough pieces that should be immediately planted in the ground. By September, the soil will be completely hidden under the young shoots.

Seeds of bryozoan can multiply by self-sowing and it is nice if you need to leave the plant to grow in the same place. But in the case of replanting or planting a new lawn, you will have to try.

In most cases, bryozoan seeds, including styloid, are bought in specialized stores. They are sold in large quantities.

Seeds can be planted directly into the ground, or you can be puzzled by growing seedlings.

Sowing seeds for seedlings is troublesome. In a mixture of sand and peat, placed in containers, bryozoans are sown, watered and covered with a film. In a week, at a temperature of about 20 degrees, sprouts will appear from the ground. When they grow up and begin to gather in bushes, the sprouts are transplanted.

Seedlings are planted in the ground in mid-May, at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. In the future, there is no need to be puzzled by the cultivation of seedlings, since the lawn will be sown on its own.

The vegetative method of reproduction or division of the sod is also not difficult. This is done in the spring, after the snow melts. A small area of ​​sod is separated - woven plants with roots that have a superficial location, so the land will not be affected. The turf is divided into several small parts and immediately planted out at a new place of residence. Parts of the sod are planted close to each other. so that the plants weave their shoots as quickly as possible, creating a beautiful flat surface.

The range of the species is Scandinavia, the Mediterranean, Atlantic, Central and Eastern Europe (including the Carpathians). The subulate bryozoan grows on wet sandy and rocky areas, lawns, rocky mountain heights.

• In late March or early April, sow the styloid bryozoan seeds in the seedling trays or directly into the seedling trays.
• Use a wet sand-peat mixture for germination.
• It is necessary to distribute the seeds over the surface as rarely as possible and spray from a fine spray.
• Experienced flower growers do the following: pour snow and sprinkle seeds on top of it that are clearly visible on white, and after the snow melts, the soil is moistened, and the seeds are planted to the required depth.
• In any case, containers with crops must be wrapped in a transparent film or tightly covered with a piece of glass, do not open until shoots appear.
• Place on a light windowsill, maintain the temperature within the range of 20-22 ° C.
• Within 7 days, shoots will appear in the form of bunches of bright green bristles.

Bryozoan subulate from seeds photo of seedlings

• When they grow up a little, thin out and / or transplant.
• We transplant into open ground from mid-April to the end of the first decade of May.
• Don't go deep into the soil, just cover the roots with earth.
• Keep a distance of 5-10 cm between individual plants, soon the shoots will completely cover these gaps.

The first two weeks after planting bryozoans in the ground, seedlings need daily watering. To retain moisture in the soil and protect the still immature shoots from the bright sun, cover the plantings on top with a white spunbond non-woven material.

Bryozoan subulate Sagina subulata ‘Lime Moss’ photo

Loosen the soil on the site first, get rid of weeds and water it well. The places where the parts of the curtains were taken from are sprinkled with loose earth. The procedure is carried out in spring or early autumn. When planting before winter until significant frosts, at least 2 months should remain, it is during this period of time that the delenki take root and the "bald spots" are filled.

How to grow and transplant oriental lilies in a pot?

Recently, specialized stores have been selling potted oriental lilies in an already blooming state. How to preserve this beauty and continue the vegetative development of plants at home. First of all, you should know that caring for an oriental lily in a pot during its flowering period includes the obligatory abundant watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Spray foliage at least once a day. This will maximize the flowering period and know how to transplant the lily in the pot after the flowering period is over.

To do this, it is necessary, after all the buds have fallen off, to wait until all the stems turn yellow and dry. In no case should you cut them off. At this time, it is necessary to reduce watering to 1 time per week. Each watering is combined with abundant fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Foliage spraying stops completely

It is important for us at this moment that all the nutrients accumulated in the foliage and stems are transferred to the bulbs and powerful flower buds are laid there for the next growing season.
After the aerial part is completely dry, watering stops completely and after 2 weeks there comes a time to dig up the lily bulbs

It is not worth leaving in the same land, since it is already depleted and will not allow the bulbs to fully develop the root system for the next year.
We take out the earthen lump from the pot and carefully disassemble it, taking out the bulbs. Children are best planted immediately in a separate container for growing planting bulbs.

We wash large bulbs under warm running water and cut off the shoot at a height of up to 5 cm from the bulb. Then we put it in a container and fill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. We take out and dry in the fresh air for 2 hours. In the meantime, we prepare moss or sawdust, slightly moistening them and transferring them to a plastic bag. Mixing with sawdust there, add the onions. We put all this in a refrigerator or basement. This is how the bulbs are stored until the next planting.
Now you know how to grow lilies in a pot at home and have the knowledge of how to transplant bulbs correctly. Check out some more photos of lilies in pots:

Children are best planted immediately in a separate container for growing planting bulbs. We wash large bulbs under warm running water and cut off the shoot at a height of up to 5 cm from the bulb. Then we put it in a container and fill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. We take out and dry in the fresh air for 2 hours. In the meantime, we prepare moss or sawdust, slightly moistening them and transferring them to a plastic bag. Mixing with sawdust there, add the onions. We put all this in a refrigerator or basement. This is how the bulbs are stored until the next planting.
Now you know how to grow lilies in a pot at home and have the knowledge of how to transplant bulbs correctly. Check out some more photos of lilies in pots:

Diseases and pests

Wisteria is distinguished by a high degree of resistance to various viruses, moreover, it is rarely affected by pests. If the rules for caring for the plant are violated, there is a risk of infection of the vines. Problems can usually be caused by multiple parasites.

Green aphid. This pest sucks the juice from the leaves of wisteria, which greatly harms it. To cure the plant, gardeners recommend using insecticides.

Clover mite. The appearance of this parasite is not difficult to notice. The leaves of the creeper acquire a bronze color. The tick spoils not only the decorative appearance of the plant, but also negatively affects its health. It is not difficult to cure wisteria from this ailment, it is enough to apply any acaricide.

Caterpillars

It is important to carefully observe the plant in order to notice the appearance of such a pest as a caterpillar in time. If you do not take any measures to treat the vine, it can be completely destroyed.

Insects feed on perennial leaves, which later become sieve-like.

How to grow wisteria, see below.

Types and varieties of wisteria suitable for the Moscow region

Care and cultivation of wisteria in the Moscow region require patience and the right choice of plant variety from the gardener.

Among the decorative types of wisteria, 9 main ones are distinguished:

• Chinese;
• shrub;
• short-breasted;
• profusely flowering (floribunda)
• short-toothed;
• fluffy;
• beautiful;
• macrostachia;
• Japanese.

Each species contains several varieties, differing in the requirements for growing conditions, the size and color of the buds, the shape of the leaves, the growth rate and the shape of the vines. When asked whether wisteria grows in the Moscow region, agronomists give an affirmative answer, but with a proviso: not all varieties.

Only a few frost-resistant varieties are recommended to grow in the Central region in open ground conditions.

Blue Sapphire

A beautiful liana with late flowering that begins in May and lasts until mid-June. The height of the stem does not exceed 6 - 7 m. In landscape design, the plant is formed in the form of two trunks intertwined around the support, branching at the top into a lush crown. Every year the plant grows by 2 m, it is advisable to carry out two pruning per season - in March and August. Flowering brushes reach a length of up to 25 cm, are distinguished by a purple color with a blue tint.

Alba variety

A representative of the Chinese wisteria species, in the Moscow region it blooms in flowerpots, winter gardens and greenhouses. When wintering in open ground, it does not freeze, but refuses to bloom.

The Alba variety blooms with medium-sized white flowers, collected in clusters up to 30 s in length. Young stems quickly woody, it is advisable to guide them, giving the desired shape as they grow.

Japanese wisteria Wisteria floribunda

A variety of Japanese species, characterized by abundant flowering. In regions with a warm climate, the buds open in May; re-flowering on young shoots is possible in August. Long brushes vary in color from lilac to pale purple. The length of the leaves reaches 30 cm, inflorescences - 40 cm. With the timely formation of vines, the plant does not grow higher than 8 - 9 m.The diameter of the stems at the base is about 30 cm at maturity.

However, abundant flowering can only be achieved in greenhouse conditions or when grown in a portable container.

Wisteria Blue Moon

In the Moscow region, the variety is most popular. It is grown in pots, greenhouses, open ground. This variety is not afraid of lowering the temperature to -25 ° C, -30 ° C. At lower temperatures, young shoots can partially freeze, however, during the summer period, the green mass is restored. Blue Moon blooms in April in a cascade of light purple buds with a subtle scent of lilac. In greenhouse conditions, flowering begins at the end of February and lasts about two months.

Care

It is possible to grow Chinese wisteria not only in the open field, but also on the windowsill.

Only in this case it is important to follow some recommendations.

Temperature regime and winter hardiness

In the summer, the culture feels great at a temperature of 20-30 ⁰С, and in winter it is important to maintain a temperature regime of 10-15 ⁰С

Watering

It is recommended to moisturize Chinese wisteria Alba regularly, but avoid excess water. During bud formation, watering is abundant and frequent, and when the buds are ready to bloom, reduce the amount of water applied. In addition, it is necessary to monitor the state of the soil in the pot so that it does not dry out. In winter, you rarely need to water the plant.

Lighting

For culture, you need to choose a southern windowsill, since the Chinese wisteria Alba is photophilous. But under the influence of direct sunlight, it can be no more than 5-6 hours a day.

The soil

You can buy a special potting pot from a flower shop or make your own. If the second option is chosen, then you need to combine the following components in a 4: 1: 1 ratio:

• leafy ground;
• sod land;
• sand.

To disinfect and eliminate parasites, the soil should be calcined in the oven or treated with fungicides.

Pruning

Cutting off the growing lateral shoots of wisteria is necessary to activate the formation of buds. During pruning, you need to leave 2-3 of the strongest shoots. To give the liana a tree-like shape, you need to choose one shoot, and cut off the rest.

Top dressing

Fertilizers need to be used in the spring, when buds are laid. It is worth adding nutrients once every 7-10 days, alternating mineral fertilizers with organic matter.

Choosing a pot for planting

You can grow the plant in tubs or pots. The planting container must have drainage, since stagnant moisture is detrimental to the culture.

Transfer

You need to transplant every year using a larger container.

For transplanting, the transshipment method is used, i.e. without destroying the earthen coma.

As soon as the plant turns 4 years old, the transplant is canceled, it is enough to replace the top layer of soil (5 cm) every year.

Rules and features of care

Wisteria is not particularly demanding of care, but certain agronomic measures are necessary to ensure good growth and abundant flowering of the "subtropical beauty".

Plot for wisteria

Sunny area where the plant grows well

Wisteria care and cultivation requires careful selection of the planting site, since wisteria will decorate the garden for a long time (150 years!):

1. A site illuminated for 6 hours is preferable, since the liana is photophilous.
2. It is necessary to choose a place that is warm and protected from the cold wind, therefore, the side of the house suitable for growing is southwest or southeast.
3. Nearby is a support that is durable and strong enough to withstand significant loads for a long time.

Wisteria is demanding on the soil composition: light, fertile, well-permeable soil is selected. The plant does not like excessive waterlogging, as well as excessive liming, from which chlorosis develops on the leaves. At the same time, they brighten and lose their decorative effect.

Shoots can independently curl around the support, but it is better to tie them up

This is important if in the fall it needs to be removed from the support and laid in a trench for the winter. With independent growth, it will be very problematic to remove shoots.

Watering

Wisteria does not like excessive moisture

With excessive moisture, wisteria begins to shed shoots and buds, so watering should be treated with caution. Dry spring requires abundant watering to keep the soil moist

During the growing season, the vine needs moderate watering. At the end of September, when the plant stops growing and begins to prepare for winter, watering is stopped.

On hot days, regular spraying of the plant is desirable. Spraying can replace watering for a while and prevent moisture stagnation in the soil.

Pruning

Wisteria bloom is abundant only with correct, timely pruning. Flower clusters are laid on old wood last year and on newly grown flower shoots. The pruning procedure begins in early spring, when the vine is freed from its shelter and tied to a support, cutting off the growth of the last year by 2-3 buds.

Formed wisteria standard trees

In order to lay flower buds on time, from which falling flower cascades are formed in late May-early June, they carry out strong pruning of last year's shoots, so that branches up to 30 cm remain.In August, the current increase is reduced by another 4-5 buds.

The formation of shoots depends on the form that the owner of the suburban area wants to get. If the plant is grown as a climbing plant, then the side shoots are removed. They form beautiful greenery, but reduce the number of buds. When creating a standard tree, only the main shoot (trunk) is developed, and the adjacent ones are cut off.

Shelter for the winter

Wisteria needs to be covered for the winter

Young shoots are most vulnerable in cold winters. To keep them from freezing:

• the plant is removed from the support
• placed in a trench or on the surface of the earth in the area of ​​the trunk circle
• the root part is spudded, pouring 1-2 buckets of earth on it
• shoots are "wrapped" in agrofibre and covered with spruce branches

Most of the young growth of this year dies during the winter, which does not pose a danger, since it should still be cut off afterwards. When the flower culture is large, it is not removed from the support: it tolerates winter well.

Top dressing

Fertilizer Kemira-Lux

When caring for and growing wisteria, feeding is important. Liana needs them, since it can grow by 5 m during the season. During the growing season, feeding alternates:

1. At the beginning of growth, a complete mineral nutrition complex is used. Pour 10-20 g of the powdery composition onto a bucket. This solution is enough for 1 sq. M.
2. Feeding is important during the budding and flowering period with alternating mineral complex (Kemira-Lux) with organic components (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20). It is held once a week.
3. Liana is watered once a season with chalk water to deoxidize the soil: 100 g of chalk is taken in a bucket of water.

When the flowers wither, they are removed, stimulating the formation of new inflorescences. During growth, it is important to prune dry branches and give the shoots a certain direction so that they twine around the support, and not hang from it.

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