Outlandish violet rm-faberge (N. skornyakova)

Diseases and pests

If the violet is properly looked after, then it rarely suffers from pests.

Diseases in these plants can be as follows.

  • Fusarium. This is rotting of the root system, degradation and softening of leaves. It is not possible to cure the violet.
  • Gray rot. Appears when the soil contains an excessive amount of moisture. You should treat the flower with "Fundazol", stop watering, sprinkle with rubbed charcoal and transplant into another container.
  • Powdery mildew. Quite a dangerous disease. A small, white, talc-like rash appears on the leaves. The violet should be treated with Topaz, there are also other fungicides.
  • Mite. A pest that multiplies quickly and can spoil several violets at once. When it occurs, the leaves are covered with a yellowish bloom and fall off. Such parasites appear as a result of overdrying the room and too high a temperature. You should make a solution of laundry soap and wipe the leaves and stems with it.
  • Thrips. This is another dangerous pest that can attack a plant if there is not enough humidity in the room. In this case, Saintpaulia should be sprayed with Aktellik, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, Aktara insecticides.
  • Nematode. If you start a violet affected by a nematode, then the plant will have to be eliminated (along with the soil and capacity). But if the violet only "picked up" such an infection, then it should be treated with "Fitoverm".
  • Aphid. Treatment should be started as soon as the first signs of infection become visible. Signs of aphids: the leaves turn yellow, gray, brown. It is treated with the same drugs as in the case of a tick infection.

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As a preventive measure, the plant should be exposed to diffused lighting (at least 12 hours daily), fed with various chemical compounds, and watered in a timely manner. In addition, be responsible for the reproduction of violets and the composition of the soil. For any signs of illness, immediately isolate the plant by taking it to another room.

For the soil and volume of dishes for Saintpaulia, see the video below.

Description

The “EK-Boy of the Bulls Gold” variety stands out among others. It is a houseplant with rather large double star-shaped flowers of a rich "bloody" color. Depending on the nature of the lighting in the room, the violet pleases the eye with the most incredible shades. In bright light, the flowers turn bright scarlet, and in cloudy weather, they turn brown and ruby.

A distinctive feature of this variety is year-round flowering. First, the rosette throws out two or three low peduncles with a couple of buds on each. As soon as they begin to open, three more are formed. The result is a huge bouquet with flowers up to 8 cm in diameter.

The rosette of Saintpaulia is flat and rather dense. With proper care and timely fertilization, the plant reaches 30 cm in diameter. The leaf plates are large, slightly elongated, with a slight wavy edging. The color is deep green.

"Bullfight" is a capricious plant. Most growers note the instability of its flowering, and terry often appears only on the third cast of peduncles, although there are cases when the rosette gave a terry flower from the first time. In addition, the facts of the alternation of the quality of the flowers themselves between individual blooms are recorded.

Another unpleasant feature of this Saintpaulia is the frequent yellowing of the leaves in the bottom row. Often, the leaf plates located at the bottom of the rosette turn yellow and quickly die off after the next bud opens.Moreover, this process does not depend in any way on the level of illumination, temperature and irrigation characteristics. It also does not mean that the plant has encountered a disease. It's just the nature of Bullfight Saintpaulia.

Wild growing rock violet

Synonyms. Violet sandy (V. arenaria).

Leaves are small, rounded, heart-shaped at the base and obtuse-angled at the apex, rigid, with long petioles, arranged alternately on the shoots. Long peduncles with medium-sized (12-17 mm long) flowers with a small spur emerge from the leaf sinuses.

Growing conditions. In natural conditions, it grows on dry slopes, fields, wastelands and in light pine forests. Prefers sandy, rocky or calcareous soil.

Usage: It is rarely used in culture. Can be cultivated in natural-style gardens, planting in curtains under a thin canopy of trees, on dry edges, lawns and rockeries.

Care

Violet "Angelica" is a rather hardy plant that is not afraid of pests, but for development to take place in a normal mode, it is necessary to create normal conditions, do the right care

Here are the most important parameters to look out for:

  • degree of illumination;
  • indoor humidity level;
  • water temperature during irrigation;
  • daytime and nighttime temperatures.

Caring for flowers is not particularly difficult. The optimum temperature should be + 18-23 degrees Celsius. To make the correct watering, you should prepare the appropriate trays, in them excess moisture accumulates for a short time, then evaporates. When watering, you need to monitor the water temperature, it must be at least +18 degrees. Watering the plant is permissible in the process of drying out the soil.

For all-round illumination, it is recommended to rotate flower pots from time to time around their axis. Saintpaulia can bloom all year round, it is recommended to use artificial lighting for this. It is best to use fluorescent lamps or phytolamps. The flower does not tolerate direct sunlight and reacts extremely negatively to cold drafts, so take care of diffused light and warm space.

In the cold season, lighting should be present for 10 hours (this is the minimum), the temperature in the room should not fall below +15 degrees. In the winter months, the amount of watering is limited to twenty percent.

The soil is usually used combined, where there are:

  • leaves;
  • turf;
  • needles;
  • peat

The ratio is 3: 2: 1: 1, baking powder is also often added:

  • perlite;
  • vermiculite;
  • sand.

The introduction of various fertilizers is permissible at least once every 2-3 weeks. Top dressing should be done during the growing season. Thanks to the correct feeding, the plant looks healthy and blooming. In the initial period of development, the violet needs nitrogenous supplements; an adult plant additionally requires phosphorus and potassium.

Specialty stores sell special additives for Saintpaulias, it is recommended to consult with the seller when buying. Fertilization ends in late September - early October, the plant must gain energy, rest, in order to fully enter into the winter period.

A transplant should be done every 12 months, while the root system should remain in a coma of earth. To successfully perform such an operation, you should additionally purchase large ceramic or plastic containers. Small holes must be drilled in all vessels, then a full air exchange will be maintained.

Often, gardening partnerships and shops offer special pots for Saintpaulias. In such devices, special drainage holes are made through which excess moisture comes out.

The minimum size of a pot for violets can be about 65 mm in diameter, the second container should be 80-100 mm

It is important that the soil meets all the requirements, otherwise the plant will not be able to fully develop. The acidity level of the soil should be in the range of 5.6-6.6 pH

The soil that is sold in the store is labeled "saintpaulia" or "violet". Such a product needs improvement; certain additives should be added.

Dangerous diseases

Violet is a delicate flower that has low resistance to viral, fungal and infectious diseases. These problems appear on weak plants, the care of which does not comply with the established rules.

High humidity and low ambient temperatures can lead to a number of diseases.

  • Bacteriosis is a disease that can occur during the warm season. Signs are the presence of dark spots, darkening of the underside of the foliage, wilting of flowers and a change in the structure of the leaf plate. Ways of struggle - the destruction of the plant.
  • Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can lead to plant death. Signs - the presence of white bloom on the surface of the leaves, which provokes the appearance of ulcers and roughness of the leaves. The causes are contamination from soil, garden tools and diseased plants. Treatment - removal of infected leaves, treatment of the plant with special fungicides.
  • Rust is a dangerous type of fungal disease that must be treated at the first sign of its appearance. Signs - the presence of brown spots on the surface of the leaf and yellow capsules with spores on the underside. The reasons are low light levels, weak immunity, plant infection. Treatment - removal of diseased leaf plates, isolation of the plant, treatment of the bush with fungicides.
  • Root rot is a disease of the root system that interferes with flower formation. Signs - long absence of peduncles, lethargy of leaves and petioles. The reasons are the lack of a drainage layer, poor quality of the soil mixture, excessive watering, low soil temperature. Treatment - removing damaged parts or completely destroying the plant, treating it with a fungicide and changing the pot and soil.

When the first signs of the disease appear, a set of measures must be taken:

  • removal of damaged parts of the plant;
  • flower treatment with special chemicals;
  • replacement of nutrient soil and flower pot.

It is strictly forbidden to feed the plant earlier than 30 days after its recovery. A weakened flower is not able to assimilate nutrients, the excess of which can provoke the death of the plant.

The following pests can harm the plant:

  • spider mite;
  • cyclamen tick;
  • nematode;
  • aphid;
  • scabbards;
  • mushroom mosquitoes.

When pests appear, the plant must be treated with special insecticides.

Novice growers may face a number of other problems:

  • wilting and drying of leaves;
  • staining;
  • rotting of the root system.

Causes of yellow and brown spots:

  • sunburn;
  • low or high air humidity;
  • unbalanced watering with cold water;
  • excessive application of nitrogenous fertilizers.

For information on how to properly water a violet, see the video below.

Diseases and pests

Violet Red tulip is sick with rot (brown and gray rot, powdery mildew, late blight) under conditions:

  • Too high humidity;
  • And low temperature;
  • In a draft.

You need to be especially careful in winter - the pot can be very cold from the windowsill. You need to use a stand or completely remove the plant from the window. Plants with late blight disease with brown spots on the leaves and decaying roots should be isolated from other Saintpaulias as soon as possible and destroyed.

Gray or whitish spots are less dangerous. Sore areas are removed, and the outlet is treated with a fungicide, for example, "Fundazol".

New plants are not placed next to domestic ones, but kept separately for a month so as not to accidentally infect them.

  • Late blight is characterized by brown spots on the leaves and rotting of the roots. The plant affected by it is completely eliminated, and the container is disinfected. Superphosphate is added for protection.
  • With gray rot (gray spots on any part of the plant), damaged parts are removed, and the plant is transplanted and treated with a fungicide.
  • Powdery mildew is identified by whitish markings on the leaves. To combat it, use the drug Fundazol.

The flower can be attacked by pests - ticks, aphids, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, nematodes, false insects and other insects. Acaricides help against ticks, Agravertin is used against scabbards, and thrips cannot stand Aktar's insecticide.

These violets are ill due to improper growing conditions. Diseases are easier to prevent than to cure.

Diseases and pests

When growing such a plant vulnerable to diseases as "Posh Poppy", you should be well aware of all the possible diseases that the plant is able to face. Most often, the plant suffers from several diseases.

  • Powdery mildew is often found not only among these violets, but also among many other plants. The disease is fungal and manifests itself as a white bloom on the leaves. This is often due to excessive moisture and too low temperature. For treatment, drugs such as Topsin, Topaz or sulfur powder are usually used.
  • Fusarium. In the same way as in the previous case, the disease Fusarium is fungal. Its appearance is provoked by too large pots and sudden temperature changes. Leaves and roots are subject to rotting, and then completely disappear. To treat a plant from fusarium, fungicides should be used, while eliminating all diseased areas.
  • Late blight. A plant affected by late blight becomes brown and gradually begins to lose leaves. The first step is to remove the flower from its pot and carefully examine it, revealing the affected areas. In case of severe damage, the plant must be disposed of, leaving the stalk.
  • Gray rot. It is quite easy to distinguish this disease from others - a gray bloom forms in various parts of the plant. It is usually infected through the soil. The infected areas must be destroyed, and the rest of the plant must be treated with fungicides.

However, you should not focus only on diseases, because parasites are another threat to the plant. It is worth considering the most common

  • Spider mite. When it settles, the leaves begin to gradually turn yellow, and the growth of the flower slows down noticeably. Particularly attentive gardeners may notice a thin cobweb. To combat such a mite, you will need a soapy solution or chemicals. Spraying should be carried out no more than 3 times, while observing the interval of 7-9 days.
  • Thrips. In the presence of this pest, anthers and flowers are affected. The buds wither away, losing all the pollen. The drug "Actellik" is perfect for treatment. It is recommended to spray 2-3 times with an interval of 1 week.
  • Mealybug. Another extremely unpleasant pest, which can be detected by a white bloom on the leaves and roots. In this case, a soap solution and a complete replacement of the soil are required.

See the video below for an overview of "Chic Poppy" violets.

Care of young violets

After the kids have been seated in cups and the stepsons have taken root, they still need care. During this period, young plants are more sensitive to light - they like diffused light, preferring northern and northeastern windows.

Priming

Grown up children 4-5 cm in diameter with two or three pairs of leaves are transplanted into a special earthen mixture. As with cuttings, it should be light and poor in nutrients.

An example would be the composition: nutrient soil for violets mixed with high peat (poor in nutrients) and filler (perlite, foam balls, etc.) in a ratio of 1: 2: 1.

The soil for children of violets should be loose enough.

As the children grow, they are transplanted into larger containers with a diameter of 7-8 cm, and then 9-10 cm.

Watering features

The watering regime largely depends on the growing conditions of the violet. The flower should not be overdried or too flooded:

  • watering is recommended only after complete drying of the upper layer of the substrate;
  • it is preferable to water the flower through a tray. The upper watering is carried out carefully, trying not to get on the leaves;
  • stagnation of water in the pan is not allowed, after 30 minutes. after watering, the excess liquid is drained.

In conditions of low temperatures, the number of irrigations is reduced.

Helpful Tips! You can tell if the soil is wet or dry by the weight of the pot - hold it in your hand before and after watering to feel the difference.

Through the wick

Wick irrigation allows the plant to regulate the flow of moisture itself, depending on environmental conditions:

  • due to the capillary effect, moisture rises from the container into the pot with the plant. With such irrigation, the soil is moistened in the required amount;
  • a wick (lace or strip of fabric) is immersed in one end in a glass of water, the opposite end is taken out into a pot with a violet.

With this watering, there is a minimal risk of root rot development.

Violets do not feed children. Only a month after separation from the cutting, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content can be applied under a small plant. After 3-4 months, feeding should contain more phosphorus and less nitrogen.

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