Description
The description of the variety should start with the fact that "Angelica" is actually a saintpaulia, not a violet. Real violets belong to the violet genus, and "Angelica" is a variety of the Gesneriaceae species. However, it so happened that Saintpaulia in everyday life is called a violet, this is more familiar and understandable. In our material, we will also adhere to a similar tradition.
The flowers of this plant are especially splendid; the petals can be of various shades of pink. Each petal has an outline pattern: purple and white, which makes this variety original. Such configurations do not appear immediately, after the first flowering a purple stripe appears, then a white one. All petals are dotted with small dots of whitish-pink color, which emphasizes the ephemerality and sophistication of the plant. The leaves of "Angelica" are the most common, there are no peculiarities here, they are dark green in color.
The stems are short, there is a leafy rosette near the roots. The leaves are oval, dark green in color or slightly mottled. The flowers consist of five petals and are arranged in a brush. Most Saintpaulia varieties are hybrid.
The varieties are differentiated into several classes, differ in color and shape. There are the following subspecies of "Angelica":
- classic;
- star-shaped;
- rimmed;
- chimeras.
The most common saintpaulias are with rosettes from 22 to 42 cm in diameter; there are also types of flowers of non-standard configurations - from 45 to 62 cm.
Consider several varieties of this variety.
- "PT-Angelica". These are large double-flowered flowers with a double corrugated border. The entire surface is covered with a reddish "dusting", the edges are usually light in color. There are also specimens that have blue and dark blue specks. This variety blooms profusely, looks very beautiful.
- "RS-Angelica". Flowers are large, double, rounded. There are blue veins here, and the petals are dark green, oval.
- "EK-Angelica". These are pink large violets, and there can be a lot of shades of pink. The leaves are dark green, heart-shaped.
All these types of violets differ in size and different colors, and are united by their abundant flowering. The plant has many medicinal properties, infusions and decoctions from violet petals are especially useful.
Care
The care includes the simple procedures listed below.
Watering
And although this plant variety responds positively to watering, you should not be too zealous. Irrigate plants only with warm and settled water.
When watering, do not allow water to enter the leaves, so it is best to water through a sump.
Spraying with a spray bottle is another great way to humidify, as water will flow into the outlets.
Transfer
If the violet has stopped growing, then it is necessary to prepare a new pot, the diameter of which will be equal to 1/3 of the diameter of the rosette. The substrate is also to be replaced. Since the root system of the plant is poorly developed, transplant it together with an earthen clod. Transfer the flower to a new pot and add the substrate. All that remains is to water.
Fertilizer and feeding
The Black Pearl variety is sensitive to soil composition. If you do not apply top dressing, then the plant will develop greenery and stop blooming.
To saturate the soil with the necessary trace elements and substances, it is necessary to apply fertilizer once every 2 weeks.
Make sure that the concentration of the solution does not exceed 2 g per 1 liter of water. To protect the plant from fungal infection, treat the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Diseases and parasites
Violet "Black Pearl" is extremely rarely susceptible to the influence of parasites and diseases. This occurs mainly due to non-observance of the rules of agricultural technology.
Table 1 - Diseases of the flower and methods of treatment
| Disease | Symptoms | Causes | Treatment and prevention |
| Powdery mildew | Defeats leaves, petioles and peduncles in the form of a whitish bloom. | Poor lighting, low temperature, high humidity, lack of potassium, nitrogen. | Treatment with drugs Fundazol or Bentlan. In case of massive damage, the plant should be treated every 10 days. |
| Late blight | Decay of the root collar, brown spots on the leaves. | Inadequate care. | Remove the affected plants, sterilize the slides, and treat the soil with superphosphate. |
| Gray rot | Fluffy brown-gray bloom on leaves, stem and flowers. | Drafts, sudden temperature fluctuations, waterlogging of the soil. | Remove the affected parts of the plant, treat the culture with a fungicide. |
| Fusarium | The petioles of the leaves are affected by a brown bloom, the leaves fall off, and the root system darkens. | Excessive waterlogging, temperature drops, the use of cold water for irrigation. | Remove the affected parts, and treat the culture with a fungicide. |
| Rust | Yellow-orange tubercles on the outside of the leaves. | Temperature changes, excessive watering, drafts. | Treatment with 1% Bordeaux liquid or fungicide solution. |
Table 2 - Pests of violets and the fight against them
| Pest | How to recognize | Control methods |
| Mite | Leaves cover depressed brown spots. | Treatment with Akarin, Aktellik or Fitoverm. |
| Shield | Strikes a rosette with smooth leaves. Forms a sticky coating. | Processing by Agravertine. |
| Thrips | They violate the integrity of the stamens, forming silvery bites on the flowers, and brown spots on the leaves. | Remove affected plants together with soil. |
| Aphid | It feeds on plant sap, forming a gluten-like liquid on the leaves and peduncles. | Perform 2-3 treatments with Aktellik (1 ml of product per 1 liter of water). |
| Woodlice | They inflict damage on the roots and leaves of the violet, provoking secondary infections. | The plant is sprayed, and the soil is poured with Actellik or Fitoverma solution. |
Planting and leaving
Ito hybrids need sunny places for lush flowering. A small shade in hot hours will do them good, the petals will fade less. The recommended planting time is the end of August and all of September. In regions with mild climates, you can plant the plant in October. In one place, an ornamental bush grows up to 10 years.
The soil
For planting, it is necessary to prepare the ground in advance. In order for the bush to grow and develop well, it will need loamy fertile soil with a weak alkaline reaction. To create an optimal substrate, you need to take:
- a mixture of compost and humus;
- 150-300 g of dolomite flour (the amount depends on the acidity of the soil);
- 200-400 g of wood ash;
- 150 g superphosphate.
The organic mixture and other top dressing are combined with the garden soil. If the soil is clayey, you will need to add sand to improve the structure. Recommended acidity pH 6.5-7.5.
Landing
Before planting a peony delenka in the ground, it must be prepared. Disinfecting treatment will help to protect expensive planting material from diseases. The root is soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or potassium permanganate. The fungicide prevents the development of rot and mildew on flowers. The use of biological stimulants will help speed up the rooting process. "Epin" and "Zircon" increase the immunity of plants, activate the growth of roots and buds.
A hole 80:80 or 100: 100 cm in size is dug under the root of the peony, which grows at a shallow depth in breadth. At the bottom, drainage is made of broken brick or expanded clay. Further, prepared soil is poured 2/3. It will be good if there is time for it to settle. Before placing the delenka, the soil in the hole is moistened. The root is laid in the center, buried in earth. Existing buds should be covered with a layer of soil no more than 2-3 cm. This will allow them to germinate quickly in spring.
Care
The agrotechnology of growing ITO hybrids does not differ from the care of ordinary herbaceous peonies.Variety "Bartzella" is resistant to viral diseases and is able to withstand drought. During the growing season, flowers are fed 3 times. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, before and after flowering - superphosphates with potassium. The frequency of watering depends on the rainfall; during the dry season, peonies are abundantly moisturized every week. The soil around the bush should be loosened, this will provide air access to the roots. It is better to mulch young plants before wintering. In the spring, the shelter is removed.
The yellow peony "Bartzella" is one of the most decorative and fragrant varieties of ITO-hybrids. He gained well-deserved popularity among gardeners around the world.
Forest varieties
Gardeners love to grow unpretentious flowers. Below you can see a photo of the Corydalis.
The description of this plant should start with the following qualities:
- frost resistance;
- no need for specialized care;
- good melliferous properties;
- attractive appearance;
- simple reproduction.
But even taking these qualities into account, it is necessary to know what conditions the corydalis loves in order for the plant to be strong and healthy.
There are quite a few species of domesticated and forest species of corialis. Below you can see the corydalis flower in the photo.
The description of all varieties can be reduced to just a few categories. Plants are divided into annual and perennial, rhizome and tuberous. According to their habitat, they are divided into forest, tundra and alpine ones. A separate group is made up of hybrid varieties bred by breeders.
Forest varieties of coridalis are ephemeroids, that is, plants with a very short growing season. Corydalis appears in April. In a couple of months, she manages to grow, reach maturity, quickly bloom and shed seeds. Then the ground part dies off, and a developed root system with thick rhizomes or tubers remains in the soil.
The most common forest varieties:
- Haller's corridal. Low, up to 25 cm plant with pinkish or pale purple buds and green bracts. It can be found in deciduous forests in Europe and in our country.
- George Baker. With beautiful red flowers, which are often cross-pollinated with other species of corydalis, due to which the buds become of a different color.
- Beth Evans. With pink inflorescences.
- Koridalis Blue Topaz. The buds are of an unusually beautiful deep blue color.
- Hollow Corydalis. She is tuberous. Prefers shady growth areas. Because of this, it grows slightly taller than its counterparts, up to 35 cm.The flowers are pinkish-purple, rarely white. The bract is purple.
- Kashmir Koridalis Belongs to the high-mountain group. With pale blue flowers.
- Crested Marshall. It looks like a tuberous, with soft cream flowers.
- Corydalis Ledebour. Tall plant with several leaves near the ground. Inflorescence cluster - multi-flowered. The color of the flowers is from yellow to pink.
- Corydalis yellow. One of the few representatives of this species with a long flowering - from early summer to September. It can be easily adapted for growing in your garden, you just need to find a slightly shaded area with suitable soil. The plant will multiply by self-sowing.
- The corridalis is sulfur-yellow. Slightly lower than the yellow corydalis, and the color of the flowers is different - yellow-cream.
- Corydalis noble. Tall, up to 60 cm, plant. The flowers are pale yellow, with an orange edging around the edge.
The last three varieties are rhizomatous. They, unlike all others, do not die off after flowering, so there will be no empty areas when grown in the garden.
Healing properties
Corydalis tubers are often used in folk medicine. They can be used to prepare pain relievers, sleeping pills, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory drugs.
Infusions and decoctions from corialis tubers are used for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, seizures, high blood pressure, arthritis and arthrosis.From the roots of the corydalis, a powder is made, which, according to traditional healers, helps to cope with insomnia, increased nervous excitability and some gynecological problems.
The tubers are harvested only when the plant is dormant, after the seeds have ripened. The rest of the corydalis cannot be used, as they are toxic.
