Description of the variety
Bushes of the Julia Rose variety can reach a height of 85–90 cm, rather spreading, with a strong stem, enveloped in a large amount of foliage. The leaves are bright green, shaped like thin feathers.
Abundant flowering can begin as early as mid-May, and usually ends in mid-July, sometimes earlier. Flowers can reach 17–20 cm in diameter. The flower petals are semi-matte and semi-double, have a pale pink color with a peach tint. The color of this peony variety changes depending on the flowering time. At first, it can be deep pink with an orange tint, and then peach pink. In the middle of the flowers, you can see bright yellow shaggy stamens. Flowers have a delicate and at the same time very pleasant aroma.
During the flowering season, Julia Rose peonies look very impressive due to the fact that the first flowers are brighter, and those that bloom later, after a few days begin to change their color to a more delicate one. Due to this, the bush becomes unlike all others.
Features of growing from seeds at home
How is the cultivation of perennial horned violets from seeds? Reproduction of viola by seeds provides the plant with greater resistance to diseases.
Sowing seedlings
Violet seeds are sown for seedlings in February:
- A drainage layer made of expanded clay or other materials is laid out on the bottom of the container, then a prepared earthen mixture;
- The substrate is disinfected with a freshly prepared hot solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 g is dissolved in a liter of water) and dried in air;
- Grooves are made with an interval of 1.5-2 cm and a depth of 0.3-0.4 cm, the seeds are laid out, covered with earth and watered; moistened by spraying;
- Greenhouse conditions are created, the film is slightly opened once a day for airing.
Important! After germination, the seedlings are placed in good light at an air temperature of up to 18 ° C.
What do seedlings look like?
The sprouts that appear have two rounded leaves on a thin stem. For 2 - 3 weeks, they should be shaded from bright sunlight.
Picking
After the formation of several pairs of true leaves, a pick is carried out - a transplant to a permanent place.
There should be a distance between the violets when planting.
It is recommended to do this already in April, since the seedlings can withstand frost. The interval between violets is 5 cm.
Features of sowing in open ground
Sowing of seed is carried out in the period from August 10 to September 10:
- The earth is loosened, grooves are formed;
- Seeds are covered with earth, watered, mulched.
Seedlings will appear only next spring. If the sowing is too thick, a pick is carried out. You can start replanting them in August.
Seed germination
On a pack of seeds, the similarity is indicated, which can be from 60 to 95%. This should be taken into account when sowing. Outdoors, sprouts need traditional care.
Strawberry Jolie traits
The characteristic of any variety consists of a description of its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of strawberry Jolie are quite numerous:
- the yield is above average (740–900 g per one bush);
- size and one-dimensionality of berries, a large percentage of fruits of the 1st quality class;
- resistance to diseases of leaves and root rot;
- drought tolerance;
- independence of the quality and size of berries from air humidity;
- ease of reproduction and good survival rate of seedlings;
- good adaptation to the conditions of different regions.
Disadvantages can be found in almost any breeding achievement. Jolie is not without them:
- yield can vary greatly depending on the climate and soil conditions of the growing region (it can drop up to 500 g from 1 bush);
- when growing on poor soils, increased application of fertilizing is required, which must be selected individually for each type of soil.
Care and other nuances
Proper watering of violets is of great importance. You will have to very carefully maintain the moisture balance. It is necessary to irrigate "Vodyany" twice or three times a week. A more accurate estimate is given by the air temperature
Important: pour only warm water that has been previously settled for at least 24 hours.
If you pour cold water on a violet, the root complex will experience a real shock. After that, the roots may even start to rot.
It is also important how the plant is watered. For this purpose, watering cans with elongated spouts are used.
As an option, take syringe pears.
The foliage should not be allowed to get wet. Moistening the middle of the outlet will also be very bad.
Alternative irrigation methods can be used to ensure that negative events are prevented. Tray watering involves placing a pot two-thirds of it. When 30 minutes have passed, you can take out the pot. Usually this time is enough for the root system to receive the required volume of fluid. Bottom watering is good precisely because it helps to avoid excessive moisture in the soil. If you have experience, you can also try wick irrigation, in which a cord with an outer section of 0.3-0.5 cm is laid inside the pot.
One of the ends of the cord is located inside, in the layer of the earth. The other edge is taken out through the drainage channel and lowered into a container with water. It should be located exactly below the pot. But, in addition to liquid, it is required to supply the violet with nutrients. A special place among them is occupied by:
Attention: the amount of fertilizer to be applied must be determined very carefully. An excess of them can have an extremely negative effect on flowers.
Rational feeding includes the use of:
- combined compositions of mineral substances;
- superphosphates;
- humus or humus.
Organic matter should come when the leaf socket is folded. The turn of phosphorus and potassium comes when the buds form, and then flowers develop from them. Any fertilizers are applied once every 14-21 days under the root. But this schedule cannot be regarded as an absolute dogma. Interruptions in the addition of fertilizers may be due to the following reasons:
- plant transplant (in the first 30 days, regardless of the rooting course);
- detection of diseases;
- damage by pests;
- excessively high room temperature.
Violet feeding is also stopped for the winter. At this time, the plant should function as calmly as possible; there is no need to stimulate its activity. In any case, you can not feed the "Water" with the help of tablets and granules. Fertilizers in such forms are needed primarily for large growth. In a small pot, it is too easy to overdose and damage the flower.
The hairiness of this variety causes the accumulation of dust on the leaves. Therefore, you have to systematically arrange "shower procedures". The pot with the violet is placed in the bathtub and poured over with a light stream of warm water. Until completely dry, the plant should not be put back on the window. This can lead to sunburn.
A characteristic feature of the "Water" is the self-folding of graceful rosettes. However, growers can help the plant by turning the pot 45 degrees every 72 or 96 hours. Already developed rosettes are cleared of degraded peduncles from time to time. It is also necessary to remove the leaves that have lost their pleasant appearance. The sockets will have to be shortened every 4-5 years.
As soon as new roots appear, the rosettes are transplanted into pots with soil. With regard to reproduction, you can use:
To separate the children (those same stepsons), they use an awl. You can collect planting material every year. The leaves used for rooting are collected only from mature plants and strictly under the peduncles. It is categorically impossible to use foliage from the middle of the outlets, as well as from the lower tiers.They simply will not give anything.
Judging by experience, the best way to reproduce the "Water" is to separate the peduncles
First, carefully break off the sheet. Cut it at a 45 degree angle
The workpiece is placed in a glass of water; instead of water, you can use a sand-earth mixture. The depth of the cutting can be no more than 1 cm.
You can watch the first flowering of a violet variety "Water" in the next video.
Violets of the traditional purple shade are invariably popular with lovers of these flowers. Among the varieties of purple color, special attention should be paid to the Violet Vodyanoy
In addition to purple, the flowers of this variety contain pinkish-white and green shades, which gives the plant a special charm and some zest.
Violets on the windowsill | RM-Magic Tulip (Skornyakova).
Usambara violet.
Family Gesneriaceae - Gesneriaceae.
Genus Saintpaulia hybrida - Hybrid Saintpaulia.
African violet saintpaulia hybrid.
Violets of breeders of the CIS countries - "B" (RM).
RM-Magic Tulip (N. Skornyakova).
Flowers of a beautiful pink color in the form of a not fully opened tulip, white eye and border (pink prints on white) and with a light crimson dusting.
Standard. The rosette is formed easily, rather neat, reaching no more than 20-22 cm.
The unusual shape of flowers, violets have not yet had a similar flower shape. The flowers are very bright, pale pink. There are not only simple, but also semi-double flowering options. Flowers do not fully open, keep the shape of a tulip, only increases in size every day. On an adult powerful rosette, the flower length reaches 3.5-4 cm. They really look like a bouquet of tulips.
Flowers of this variety keep for a very long time. Amicable flowering for the first time does not work. The plant will show its beauty by the 3rd flowering, and the peduncles will be stronger. There are many peduncles, on each peduncle there are four large tulips. There is a big drawback - these are lying peduncles. Lying randomly, directed in different directions, peduncles give the rosette a sloppy look, this is a feature of the variety. Peduncles crawl out from under the leaves like snakes, they don't even try to straighten up.
The rosette grows very slowly until the foliage grows, does not bloom. You can cope with the outlet, it grows evenly on the rack, and on the windowsill it is much worse. Flower shape is best maintained under cooler growing conditions.
According to legend, the Persian prince Farhad loved the beautiful girl Shirin without memory. Envious rivals spread a rumor that his beloved had been killed. Distraught with grief, Farhad drove his playful horse to the rocks and crashed to death. In the place where his blood fell on the ground, bright red flowers grew, henceforth a symbol of passionate love - tulips.
Do you know that…?
Under proper lighting, the plants form compact rosettes with well-colored leaves, which in the bottom row are located almost horizontally or slightly raised. Young leaves are green and juicy. Numerous flower stalks with buds appear from their sinuses. Excessive lighting inhibits the plants. First of all, their growth slows down. Light green leaves turn yellow, dark greens take on a brown tint, nestle against the edges of the pots.
The leaf blades become dense, the petioles are shortened. In the center of the rosette, young leaves merge with each other. Short peduncles develop, sometimes it is difficult for them to get out from under the leaves, they are deformed. The flowers become smaller, their color loses its intensity, they fade quickly. If you shade such a saintpaulia, then it will take a lot of time to restore decorativeness.
Before buying the violets listed below, carefully read their behavior on the windowsill on the forums. Many of them are very beautiful flowers. However, it can be large rosettes with large and fragile leaves, with leaves rising upward or hugging the pot, form many stepsons interfering with the formation of a neat rosette, pulls the stem up and grows into a herringbone, bending the trunk, rare flowering with long breaks, flowers that fall off or keep a little and wither quickly, very long and recumbent peduncles, the color of the flower quickly fades, they do not like bright lighting on the windowsill, they are afraid of the slightest drying out or waterlogging, a large percentage of sports or the darkening of the flower.
Are they suitable for your windowsill and the conditions you can create for them? You will be looking at flowers for several months, and the rosette is always in front of your eyes. There are many beautiful flowers, beautiful and neat outlets are much less, look first of all at the outlet! Search and you can find a dozen violets with the same color of flowers, if you are not interested in the smallest details, as a collector.
• - Valentina (Dmitrieva); • - Vesuvius Elite (Arkhipov); • - Evening Lviv (Volskaya); • - Byzantium (Pikalova); • - Viking (Volskaya); • - Sudden Rain (Prilutskaya); • - Waves of Azov (Aksenkin); • - Vologda Lace (Makuni); • - Magic Dreams (Pugacheva); • - Bindweed (Kuznetsov);
RM-Byzantine Rose (N. Skornyakova).
RM-Magic Christmas (N. Skornyakova).
RM-Spring (N. Skornyakova).
Continuation: Violets of breeders of the CIS countries - "B".
Continuation: Violets of breeders of the CIS countries - "B" (RS).
Continuation: Violets of breeders of the CIS countries - "B" (LE).
Continuation: Violets of breeders of the CIS countries - "B" (EC).
Features of the maintenance and care of the variety
A feature of the Georgia variety is the reluctant growth of the outlet. Leaves are rare and grow very slowly.
To form a beautiful rosette, the violet needs to create ideal conditions:
- Natural bright lighting without direct sunlight falling on the leaves. The best place for a flower is an east or west window. When located on the southern windowsill, the glass at a height of at least 40 centimeters must be covered with a translucent cloth or thick paper. Violet daylight hours should be at least 12 hours.
- The air temperature is not lower than 19 and not higher than 25 degrees. Temperatures below 13 degrees are fatal for violets.
- Humidity - 50-60%. On hot days, as well as during heating operation, the air in the room becomes too dry, therefore, it is necessary to take measures to humidify it. The pot is placed on a claydite tray filled with water. The bottom of the pot should not touch the water, otherwise root decay will begin. Excessive humidity is eliminated by regular ventilation.
Violet Georgia is poured with water at room temperature.
Regular moderate watering with settled water. The water temperature should be a couple of degrees above room temperature. Cold or too warm water is stress for the root system, which can trigger the multiplication of the fungus. Experienced flower growers advise using wick irrigation for this variety: the leaves in this case grow faster and the rosette becomes thick.
Hygienic procedures. Household dust accumulates on the fleecy leaves of violets, which must be washed off monthly. The plant is placed in a bath and bathed in a gentle stream of warm water. To avoid hypothermia of the violet and burns of the leaves, you can put the plant on the windowsill only after it has completely dried.
Advice. In order for the leaves of the violet growing on the windowsill to form evenly, the pot must be turned 40-50 degrees every 3-4 days.
Susceptibility to disease
Viking grapes have medium resistance to diseases such as mildew and powdery mildew.
Mildew and powdery mildew are fungal diseases, to prevent them, first of all, preventive measures are needed:
- collecting and burning affected leaves;
- autumn digging of land between rows;
- ensuring good ventilation of plants - planting plants at sufficient intervals from each other, timely pruning.
Mildew or downy mildew is one of the most dangerous fungal diseases of grapes. The disease is caused by a fungus that hibernates directly on withered leaves and tolerates frost well. The onset of the disease can be seen by oily stains and white bloom on the leaves. At the next stage, yellow spots appear, leaf necrosis. The whitish fluff spreads to the inflorescences and can lead to a large loss of yield.
Photo Gallery: Signs of Mildew Disease
If whitish fluff has already appeared on the leaves or the grapes have already been affected by mildew in the previous season, you cannot do without chemicals. Such drugs as Radomil, Delan, Thanos, Profit show high efficiency. Young plantings in the spring need to be sprayed about every 10 days, and from mid-June every week. When processing, use the dosage of the drug indicated by the manufacturer.
Oidium, or powdery mildew, is the most common grape disease. Unlike mildew, the spores of the fungus overwinter under the scales of the eyes and on the shoots themselves; at temperatures above 18, the spores begin to actively germinate and affect all parts of the plant. In early summer, infected buds and leaves turn yellow, a gray powdery coating appears. Subsequently, the leaves become covered with brown spots and gradually die off, the disease passes to the berries, which are also covered with plaque.
Typical powdery coating in case of grape mildew disease
The treatment of the vineyard from this disease must be started before bud break. During this period, it is necessary to spray with sulfur (dissolve 25–40 g of sulfur in 10 liters of water). After flowering, you can use drugs such as Rubigan, Topaz, Skor, Bayleton, Karatan, following the recommendations of the manufacturers of these drugs, indicated in the instructions.
Reproduction
It is believed that violets can be propagated by leaves. This is true, but only in part. If you take the lower leaves, then, indeed, you can root them and get new plants. But in this case, new plants may not inherit any traits of the mother plant. To avoid this, it is recommended to take not leaves, but rosettes or peduncles.
To root cuttings, they are placed in vessels with settled (or filtered) water. Only after 1.5-2 months can young roots be seen at the ends of the cuttings. Sometimes this period stretches up to 4 months. You do not need to root the leaves in water, but immediately plant them in a pot - this way, the roots will be even stronger. For such seedlings, pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm are taken. The final transplant will take place only in 3-4 months.
Transplant after purchase and during reproduction
It is necessary to transplant the Fairy as the outlet grows. To do this, you can buy the substrate in the store or prepare it yourself.
The soil mixture should consist of:
- 2 pieces of turf;
- 1 part peat;
- 2 parts of leafy soil;
- 1 part of coniferous litter;
- 1 part vermiculite.
The pot for planting also matters, its diameter should be 2 cm larger than the previous one
It is important that drainage holes are made in the bottom, which will exclude stagnant moisture
Important! When transplanting in the bottom of the pot, you need to lay the pebbles in a layer of 1 cm.Then sprinkle it with a layer of earth
After this, take out the violet without breaking the earthy lump. Place it in the center, and fill the resulting voids with earth. You need to deepen the plant to the first leaves. After that, the violet must be watered.
Care rules
Tason responds to good care, but there are no particular difficulties in growing this variety.
Trimming and shaping
Due to the strong growth, the grape bushes must be subjected to shaping. The easiest way is to use a fan. You can also form a bush in the form of a two-armed cordon or grow it on an arch. In warm regions, where grapes do not need to be covered for the winter, they can be cultivated in standard form, like a tree.
It will take 3-4 years to get a fan-shaped bush.
When pruning, you need to remember the basic rules:
- The optimal load for Tason is no more than 30–40 shoots per bush.
- Each vine should be pruned into 10-12 eyes.
High stem grapes can be grown in warm regions
In autumn, the grapes are pruned, removing unripe parts of the vine, excess branches and thickening shoots. If winter temperatures in the region drop below -22 ... -24 ° C, the vines should be laid on the ground and covered at the end of October. An agrotechnical cloth, a layer of earth, straw or oilcloth will do.
To protect the grapes from frost, it is necessary to tie the vines, lay them on the ground and cover them with straw
Watering
Watering grapes needs moderate - excess moisture will only hurt. Usually watered 3-4 times per season:
- After the end of flowering.
- During the ripening period of berries.
- After harvest.
- Before the onset of cold weather.
To better retain moisture in the soil under the bushes, it is recommended to mulch the trunk circle with natural materials:
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- peat,
- sawdust,
- cut grass.
Top dressing
To get a bountiful harvest, you need to regularly fertilize the vineyard.
- The first root dressing is applied a few days after flowering.
- The plants are then fed at the beginning of the ripening of the berries - this helps to increase the average weight of the bunches.
- The last feeding is carried out in autumn with potassium salts, which increase the frost resistance of plants.
Organic substances are introduced in the form of slurry or an infusion of chicken manure; rotted manure can also be used (used in the form of a layer of mulch with a thickness of 7-10 cm). Do not forget that microelements are very useful for grapes:
- boric acid;
- manganese sulfates;
- zinc sulfates.
Grapes respond well to foliar dressing. For this, aqueous solutions of fertilizers are prepared:
- nitrogen (ammonium nitrate 0.3%);
- phosphoric (superphosphate 5-7%);
- potash (potassium chloride 1.5%).
Top dressing can be combined with preventive spraying against fungal diseases.
Video: fertilizing and feeding grapes
Pest and disease control
Tason berries ripen during the height of summer and naturally attract birds and wasps. Vine bushes can be protected from birds with a net (preferably rigid and fine-mesh).
You can save yourself from wasps by setting insecticidal traps and destroying wasp nests. If you're comfortable with the extra work, it's best to wrap each brush in a gauze bag.
The mesh bag will successfully protect the grape harvest from wasps
More dangerous than wasps may be damage by phylloxera, a microscopic aphid that affects both the ground parts of the plant and the root system. Treatment with volatile carbon disulfide will help against it:
- In case of severe damage by phylloxera, a dosage of 300-400 cm3 / m2 is used. This will kill the pests, but the vineyard may die.
- To maintain plantings, a dosage of 80 cm3 / m2 is used.
The defeat of grapes by phylloxera is considered one of the most dangerous
Tason is not too resistant to powdery mildew, mildew and gray mold. Due to the early ripening of grapes, these diseases do not always "catch up" with the harvest. But it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments in any case. Copper preparations are suitable:
- bordeaux liquid,
- Captan,
- Vitriol,
- Tsinos.