Tree lily (60 photos): planting and caring for a lily-tree in the open field. Description of "Purple Prince" and other varieties

Planting and leaving

In general, lilies are not too whimsical, and this is especially true for the sun. They do well in partial shade. Do not plant flowers in lowlands with stagnant water and too humid air.

It is important that the garden is well ventilated, but the drafts are not strong. They grow up to 5 years in one place, so the soil must be periodically fertilized

Choose loose, nutritious soils with drainage.

Before planting, the soil should be dug up and fertilized with peat, ash, superphosphate. The process itself is simple:

treat the bulbs with "Fundazol";
disembarkation is made in the fall;
sand and ash are introduced into the hole;
the bulb sits in the ground at three of its heights;
you need to distribute the roots;
the onion is sprinkled with sand, earth, mulched.

Top dressing is carried out according to the following scheme:

the first - with complex fertilizers, as soon as shoots appear;
the second - during the formation of buds with superphosphate;
the third - during the flowering period.

Lily care includes a standard set of activities.

Moisturizing - lilies love moderate humidity, they cannot be poured, otherwise the roots will die, rot. Moderately moist soil is ideal for them. Watering them once a week in the absence of rainfall is often not recommended. They do this only in summer in hot weather. In spring, hybrids should not be watered.
Loosening - this must be done after moisturizing each time.
Feeding.
Weeding - as the weeds emerge.

Lilies do not like transplanting, in no case should this be done during the period of active flowering.

And also it is advisable to cover many varieties for the winter:

this must be done after the final trimming of the entire flower bed;
although not all varieties require shelter, in regions with a harsh climate it is better to play it safe;
create a shelter in several layers - fallen leaves, spruce branches, peat, polyethylene;
oriental hybrids are very thermophilic and do not like frost, it is better to cover them not with a leaf, but with a thick layer of peat and spruce branches;
in the spring, only the upper layers are removed - film, spruce branches;
the lower layers are left until the onset of stable heat.

Reproduction, planting and transplantation of terry lilies

Reproduction of lilies is possible in several ways - vegetative and seed. Seeds are propagated most often in cases of breeding new varieties, since this is a laborious and long process. Florists use a vegetative way:

Reproduction is considered to be the easiest by dividing the bulbs. Every year, babies appear on the bulb, which are carefully disconnected from the mother plant and planted separately in early September.

It is very important that young bulbs are free from rot and damage. In the first year, young plants require very close attention and care.
Baby bulbs can appear not only on root nests, but also on the underground part of the stem

They are also separated from the mother's body, but cannot be dug out. Such a seedling is placed for a while in a well-moistened and loose soil, and it can be transplanted into a permanent place only after a few years. It begins to bloom in the 4th year of life.

Lily propagation by dividing nests

Reproduction by scales is also considered a fast way. It is carried out in the fall or spring (in the spring, the scales are planted immediately, without prior storage in a dark, cold place). To do this, you need to take a mature lily bulb and separate strong intact scales from it.
In order for the mother bulb to grow further, she needs to leave more than half of the scales.When the scales are prepared, they are soaked in a solution of warm water with potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, dried thoroughly and placed in a plastic bag, covered with chopped charcoal and bark.
Such a mixture is stored for about 6-8 weeks at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, and then it can be transferred to a refrigerator or a cool dark place until the scales start to sprout. After that, they are planted in a pot so that 2/3 of the scales are underground. During this period, the seedling is rooting. In the spring they are planted in the ground. Young plants reach maturity in a few years, and begin to bloom in the 3rd year of their life.

Lily scales

Lilies can also be propagated by stem bulbs, since most often it is Asian varieties that form them. High-quality care and constant maintenance of the necessary conditions have a positive effect on the size and number of bulbs. The collection is carried out when they can be easily separated from the stem.
The collected bulbs are placed in a bag in a refrigerator or other dark, cool place for several weeks - until the roots appear. When they appear, the shoots are immediately planted in open ground for rooting. The soil should be loose and moist. Such seedlings can be transplanted as early as next year. Young plants begin to bloom in the third year of growth.

Very rarely (in cases where rare species are bred), propagation by cuttings of leaves and stems is used. For reproduction by parts of the stem, it must be divided into segments up to 10 cm and immediately planted in the ground at an angle, ensuring constant watering for 60 days. During this period, rooting occurs.
When diluted with leaves, they must first be planted in an earthen mixture with sphagnum in a separate container, sprinkling with a small amount of water. After rooting has occurred, watering can be increased and transplanted into the ground. This type of propagation is best used before the buds form on the lily.

Lily propagation by cuttings

When buying bulbs from a store, they must be inspected very carefully to ensure that they are intact and free from rot. Such bulbs at home must be put in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-30 minutes and dried completely, having previously removed all rotten and damaged scales. After that, they are placed in the refrigerator or in a dark, cool place until spring. During this time, roots appear on the bulbs. After 4-6 weeks, they are planted in several pieces in each pot for rooting. In the spring they are ready to plant.

You can plant such lilies not only on the street, but also in the room. In both cases, it is necessary to carefully prepare the conditions for planting:

It is carried out most often in late April or early May.
For planting in the garden, lilies are pulled out a hole twice the size of the bulb itself.
The bulb is placed in the hole with the roots down, covered with earth so that only the top is visible.
After planting, the top layer is loosened with hands so that air has access to the roots. The substrate must be free of clay. A little sand is added to the ground.
When planting in a pot after rooting of seedlings, each of them is placed in a separate container.
Holes are made at the bottom and pumice or foam is placed there to create drainage conditions.
The top layer of the earth is loosened.
The pot should be about 40 cm in diameter and about 20 cm high.

Planting and leaving

Tall lily Purple Prince feels great in the sun or in partial shade. However, it should be borne in mind that an adult plant is not recommended to be transplanted often, otherwise it may get sick and even die. In order for a perennial to serve as a garden decoration for many years, you should adhere to simple but very important tips for growing it.

How to choose a landing site

The Purpl Prince variety is considered to be unpretentious, but it thrives on well-drained and moist soil.Since the plant must grow in one place for several years, it is advisable to choose a place taking into account the planting of other plants and the presence of buildings on the site.

If the lily will grow alone, a well-lit place, protected from direct drafts, is best. In the event that a flowerbed or linear planting is planned, it is best to plant a purple lily near fences and fence structures, gazebos, verandas. For creating a natural fence of lilies or for zoning an area, a flat, sunny place is best suited.

Important! It should not be forgotten that the plant grows up to 2 meters in height and takes up a fairly large place on the site. Liliaceae can shade flower plantings of low-growing plants

To use a flower in landscape design, it is advisable to think in advance about the planting sites of all plants on the site. In this case, the lily can be planted in a large flower pot. This will allow you to easily move the plant around the area until the ideal location is found.

Landing rules

Planting bulbs is best done in early spring or fall. Sometimes you can plant a tall lily in the summer, but this option is more suitable for the southern regions. The plant should root well before the cold weather, so as not to freeze.

Summer bulbs overwinter well if the rhizome of the lily is covered with a thick film in late autumn. Purple Prince belongs to OT hybrids, therefore, bulbs of plants growing on a plot of 2-3 years can be used as planting material.

In a suitable place, a small hole 15-20 cm deep appears, on the bottom of which sand or a mixture of sand and wood ash is poured. The roots on the bulbs need to be straightened, planted in a hole and covered with fertile soil. It remains only to water the plant well and leave it alone.

Transplant and reproduction

Purple Prince takes root well and produces a fairly large number of baby bulbs. By the fall, the root system of the plant is ready for transplantation or reproduction. If a lily tree is planned for transplanting, it can be carried out once after flowering is complete.

Lily transplant rules:

The plant must be dug up with a garden fork. A shovel can damage the bulbs.
The roots are well watered with water, freeing them from earthy lumps.
Carefully separate the children (young shoots) and put them in a solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours.
After disinfection, the roots are trimmed with a sharp knife to a length of no more than 10-12 cm.
The tubers are planted in pre-prepared holes.

The distance between the tubers should be at least 25 cm. Since the plant grows rapidly, it is undesirable to transplant an adult flower more often than 1 time in 3-4 years.

Care advice

Lily Purpl Prince is an unpretentious plant, the care of which consists in regular loosening, removing weeds and constantly moistening the soil. In dry years, it is advisable to provide regular watering so that the topsoil does not dry out. If the ground is too dry, the lily will stop blooming.

In summer, watering should be carried out in the morning, and to retain moisture near the root, the ground should be mulched. Do not pour over the plant, otherwise the bulbs may rot!

Top dressing of the purple lily is carried out in the spring, immediately after the first leaves appear. During the budding period, the flower is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

Advice:

Ot-hybrid varieties do not tolerate severe frosts above -15 ° C. To prevent bulbs from freezing in a harsh climate, it is recommended to bring the lily tree indoors during the winter.
If no buds are set on a young plant, then the bulbs are too deeply planted. In this case, even in summer, you can transplant the plant to the optimal depth.
To grow a purple lily on the site, 4 weeks before planting, you need to fertilize the ground with wood ash, peat or humus.Preliminary preparation of the soil will ensure the rapid establishment of the plant.

All about lilies: description and main characteristics

How to distinguish this culture from others:

Drooping lily

All plants have a stem that can be 14 cm or up to 2.5 meters in height, completely covered with foliage. Exactly how long your flower will be depends on the variety you have chosen.
Also, some varieties may differ in the stem, which is covered with leaves only in its lower part.
There are plants with umbellate, conical and cylindrical inflorescences.
You can find both single flowers and groups, the number of which varies from 5 pcs. and comes up to 15 pcs. Each inflorescence pleases the owner with its flowering for about 1-2 weeks.
The flower has 6 petals, one pistil and stamens, which can be about 5-7 pcs.
Among the numerous species, there are plants of the most original and unforgettable shapes and colors. But you will not be able to meet a blue or blue lily.
Grows from bulbs, which can be of various sizes, depending on the selected variety. It can be either 1 cm or up to 27 cm.

Those who like to decorate their garden should remember that some types of lilies are quite difficult to breed. There are also plant varieties that even professional gardeners cannot cultivate. But this does not apply to hybrid varieties, since even the most inept florist can cope with their cultivation.

The size of the flower also depends on the variety chosen. Some can be around 250mm in circumference, while small flowering varieties reach around 40mm.

All currently available hybrids have been bred from several basic species. Let's see what kind of lilies are there?

Lily care in autumn

During the entire growing season, the soil around the lilies is kept in a loose, moderately moist state, weeds are necessarily dug up and the plants are fed. Autumn is no exception, although autumn care for lilies in the open field is not as intense as in spring and summer.

Watering lilies and removing weeds during this period is carried out as needed - depending on the weather and the condition of the site. Treatment from diseases and pests is also carried out as needed and depending on the condition of the plants.

How to feed lilies in the fall?

After flowering, intensive processes take place underground in the bulb, nutrients are stored for the next year. Phosphorus-potassium dressing will significantly increase the winter hardiness of lily bulbs and help them recover. For this, superphosphate and potassium / magnesium sulfate are used.

For 10 liters of heated water take 1 tbsp. double superphosphate (or 2 tbsp. simple) and 1.5 tbsp. potassium magnesium. The resulting solution is shed by planting at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq.m.

How and what to feed lilies in the garden for lush flowering
Your garden lilies bloom poorly or the flowers on the stems are very small - do not despair. The problem can be solved with the help of dressings.

When to prune lilies in the fall?

Immediately after flowering, this should not be done - the ground part contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb and its growth, therefore, too early pruning can disrupt the metabolism, and the plant will die. Start by removing dried flowers to stop seed formation. And as soon as the leaves die off, you can proceed to the autumn pruning of lilies - this will protect perennials from possible diseases and pests, and will allow you to enjoy lush flowering next year.

Cut off the stems with leaves at a height of 15 cm from the soil level, being careful not to damage the annual roots at ground level (they are necessary for the bulb to feed).

How to properly prune perennials for the winter - all the subtleties of autumn pruning
Their growth and flowering in the new season depends on the autumn pruning of perennials. It is worth looking into this issue!

Towards the end of autumn, you need to prepare a site with lilies for wintering. With the onset of stable cold weather, cover the trimmed lilies with a layer of peat or leaf humus at least 10 cm high - it will protect the bulbs from frost, and in spring it will function as mulch. Place boards or spruce branches on top. Covering with a film is not recommended - in the spring it can create a greenhouse effect.

The bulbs of American, pipe and oriental lilies need to be dug up for the winter. The rest of the lilies, with a few exceptions, are frost-resistant and can survive the winter in the ground under cover.

Autumn care for lilies is easy. Take some time to take care of these beautiful perennials and properly prepare them for winter - and next season they will surely thank you with lush flowering.

Lily varieties: what to plant

I planted lily bulbs. In the first year, they bloomed well, in the second year - much worse, and in the third - they completely disappeared. I dug up the soil and found only small onions. Where did the bulbs that I planted go?

Most likely, you planted oriental or American hybrids, which we have practically no time to restore the bulb after flowering, and it gradually weakens and even completely dies. These types of lilies bloom late, and the rainy, cold weather begins to ruin the leaves. Without them, the bulb cannot recover after flowering, during which the entire supply of nutrients accumulated in it is consumed, and the heat is not enough. Thus, before winter, the bulb leaves weakened. Gradually, it weakens so much that it completely dies.

Another possible reason is the soaking of the bulbs if the area where they are planted is flooded with melt water in the spring and rains in the summer. In addition, the bottoms of the bulbs could rot. This often occurs on acidic soils with excessive soil moisture or when the bottoms of the bulbs are damaged by the wireworm.

Sometimes the bulb will rot due to poor quality planting material or damage from snails and other soil pests. Before planting any bulbous crops, it is recommended to pickle the planting material against rot in the "Maxim" preparation.

What varieties of lilies can be planted in the Northwest?

In the Northwest, Eastern, American, Japanese hybrids are poorly successful. Only Asian and LA hybrids, obtained by crossing Asian and tubular lilies, bloom well and hibernate without shelter. Tubular lilies hibernate only under the shelter of spruce branches.

For successful overwintering of oriental hybrids, they should be covered with dry foliage with a layer of at least 20 cm and cover the planting with a film on top so that moisture does not penetrate under the shelter. You can use high-moor peat as a cover, also with a layer of 20 cm, but already without a film on top of the peat. You can spud the plants with earth and cover them with spruce branches. In early spring, all this must be removed, otherwise the lilies will start growing too early and fall under spring frosts.

Oriental hybrids and other species crossed with them are usually transplanted into a glazed greenhouse in late summer.

Martagon grows and blooms in the Northwest. Everywhere and everywhere Daurian lilies grow beautifully, bloom and hibernate without shelter. In warmer climatic zones, especially where there is a long, warm and dry autumn, both tubular and white royal, oriental hybrids and other types of lilies grow beautifully.

American and Japanese hybrids can only be grown in or near subtropical climates.

How to cut and preserve lilies correctly?

Generally speaking, lilies are cut flowers. But you can cut only those plants that have 5-7 buds (they have a large bulb). Lilies are cut when the first bud has just begun to open.

If the lily has only 1–2 buds, you cannot cut it yet, as it has too small a bulb. By pruning, you rob the plant of the leaves it needs to rebuild and grow a large bulb.

Never cut off the entire stem.Leave at least a quarter of the stem with leaves to rebuild the bulb.

If transportation is to be done, it is better to cut it early in the morning. Burn the ends of the stems in a candle flame or dip in molten paraffin. Then wrap the lilies in paper and pack in a cellophane bag (tying it) or in a cardboard box (sealing it with tape). Flowers will perfectly tolerate a long enough path.

Before putting them in water, the ends of the stems need to be trimmed. To give food to cut plants, you can add 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar to 1 liter of water. And to protect them from putrefactive bacteria, add a grain of citric acid or manganese.

Fertilizer

Particularly frequent application of dressings must be ensured during the formation of buds. And also at the stage of their coloring. If at this time the plant does not have enough fertilizing, the flowers will be small and dull. In the worst case, the buds fell off. Thanks to abundant feeding, the formation of flowers is quickly completed. And the duration of flowering increases several times.

Purchased potash fertilizers are great. The last dressing is applied at the end of summer, when the bulb is severely depleted. In the autumn and winter, it is undesirable to feed the flower.

Growing Longiflorum

Before purchasing a lily bulb, you should carefully examine it. A healthy specimen should be smooth and firm to the touch and free of rot, slimy formations or dark spots. If the planting of the flower will not be on the day of purchase, the bulb should be placed in damp moss or in a wet rag. Immediately before planting, the plant is dipped in Fundazole solution to prevent the occurrence of diseases.

Landing

Experienced growers prefer autumn planting. The most suitable time is mid-September. The bulb will have time to grow good roots before the first frost. You can plant a plant in the spring, after taking care of a safe wintering. The bulbs dug up in the fall are cleaned of the ground, put in bags with holes and spread in layers in wet sawdust. You can store planting material in a garage, cellar or refrigerator.

The quality of the soil affects the planting depth of the bulb. The heavier the ground, the shallower the depth should be. Humidity and temperature in the winter season depend on this parameter. If the underground hole is long enough, stem roots and children are well formed in it.

A small amount of sand and ash is placed in the dug hole. The roots of the plant are shortened a little. The bulb should be planted in the sand, while not forgetting to spread the roots. From above, the planting material should be sprinkled with sand a little to avoid waterlogging, then covered with soil and mulched with peat.

Planting lilies

If Longiflorum lily will live in indoor conditions, care should be taken to select a suitable pot and filler for it. The planting capacity should be chosen quite spacious, with a diameter of 0.15 to 0.2 m. The bottom of the flowerpot must be filled with drainage. To do this, use expanded clay or any other floral drainage.

The bulb should not be completely covered with earth, only half of it should be in the ground. The soil is chosen well fertilized, be sure to add a little sand to it. The pot with the plant is placed in a cool place. Watering too often is not worth it, the litter should be moderately moist.

Transfer

The maximum period for growing lilies in one place is five years. During this time, the vegetation thickens, and the flowers decrease in size. Experts recommend replanting the plant from time to time. The transplant takes place as follows:

the stem of the plant is cut close to the ground, the bulb is carefully dug out, trying not to harm the root system;
dry scales are carefully removed from the bulb, after which they are divided into small onions;
all planting material is poured with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and left for disinfection;

a plant is planted in the prepared holes on sand caps and the roots are carefully straightened;
the onion is slightly pressed to the ground, after which it is covered with soil and mulched with peat.

Indoor florists recommend transplanting into a new substrate every fall after flowering.

Reproduction

Lily has several ways of reproduction: cuttings, scales, bulbs, bulbs, and even seeds:

One of the most common breeding methods is the separation of the bulb. Small children grow on the lower part of the bulb. Although there are no shoots on them, they are already suitable for breeding.

To perform this procedure, in the fall (after the end of the flowering phase), the mother bulb is dug up and the babies are carefully separated from it.

Popular among florists and scale propagation. No more than 1/3 of the scales must be separated from the bulb and planted, covering them with sawdust or sand on top

Water the seedlings regularly. The result can be seen within a few weeks.
Propagation of lilies by bulbs is a fairly simple task. On the stem, you can see the appearance of small balls - these are stem bulbs. It happens that they fall to the ground and sprout themselves.

The plant is propagated by seeds rather rarely, because such an instance will bloom only after 6-7 years. Seeds should be planted in early spring in containers. The sprouts will appear after 2-3 weeks. When real leaves grow at the sprouts, they dive. Before the onset of winter, the seedlings should be warm, and in winter the room temperature is lowered to + 6˚ C. The plants are planted only next spring in the ground warmed by the sun.

It will also be interesting: Lilies have faded - what to do next, plant care in August and September

Differences in agricultural technology

When choosing plants for planting in the garden, one should take into account the agrotechnical features of growing lilies and daylilies. If you plan to create a flower garden with minimal effort and time for care, then you need to opt for daylilies. If the gardener is not afraid of painstaking care of the garden, then you can safely choose for planting a lily. Lilies need fertile, loose soil, fairly moist, in a non-flooding area, preferably with a slight slope without stagnant groundwater, so that the bulbs do not rot. Clayy heavy soils with poor water permeability and sandy areas with low moisture capacity are not suitable for lilies. Daylily grows well on ordinary garden soils.

Irrigation regimes are also significantly different. Lilies need constant moderate humidity during the entire growing cycle, but in the first half of the summer season and immediately after flowering, increased watering will be needed, as the need for increased humidity increases. Daylilies do not need additional watering, since they have powerful developed roots. The best conditions for the daylily are dry soil on top, and moist at a depth of 20–30 cm. It is not difficult to ensure this, it is enough to mulch the soil around the daylily with natural materials (sawdust, peat chips, small wood chips).

For the winter period, lilies need to be prepared. Winter hardiness of different varieties is not the same. Some of the most cold-resistant varieties for the winter are enough to mulch. There are varieties on which you need to additionally sketch out coniferous spruce branches, and some especially thermophilic varieties of lilies have to be dug out for the winter. Daylilies are not afraid of cold weather, they do not need to be covered for the winter.

In any case, the hassle of growing lilies is worth it, as they add sophistication and elitism to the garden design. It is easy to be convinced of the validity of this statement by planting varietal lilies on your site. Daylily gardeners call the flower of "intelligent lazy." With the right fit, you can completely forget about it for 5 years.

Common diseases

Like all other garden crops, black lilies sometimes encounter diseases and pests. The main danger for such flowers is the following ailments.

Gray mold - This fungus grows with the onset of spring, damaging the green parts of the flower. At the same time, the bulbs remain intact, so healthy flowers can grow from them next season. To prevent the treatment of gray rot, the lily can be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.
Fusarium - this disease is fungal in nature and destroys the bottoms of the bulbs, which leads to a slowdown in the growth and development of the flower. If signs of pathology are found, the tubers should be uprooted as soon as possible, the affected fragments should be removed and kept in the Fundazol solution for about half an hour.
Variegated leaflet is a viral infection that is carried along with insects. The disease causes a sharp deterioration in the health of the lily, but it does not die, although it can contribute to the further spread of the virus.

Growing problems

Breeding hybrid lilies, the breeder did their best: the resulting varieties are much less likely to get sick and are affected by pests than ordinary species. However, problems with growing OT hybrids are not completely ruled out. And then we will consider the most common pathologies and ailments.

Botrytis (gray rot)

One of the most common diseases that tree lilies suffer from. The disease is of fungal origin, usually occurs due to waterlogging: excessive watering or heavy rains.

A symptom of gray mold is dark specks on foliage and flower buds. The disease is dangerous and if measures are not taken, it can completely destroy the plant in a matter of days. They get rid of this pathology by spraying with copper-containing preparations: Oxyhom, HOM are optimal.

Blue rot

This pathology affects the tree lily bulbs if stored improperly. The rot looks like a whitish-blue mold with a green tint, covering the planting material. If you find rot, be sure to treat the bulbs in a Fundazole solution. If a disease is detected, when the lilies have already been planted, cultivate the land in the root circle with colloidal sulfur (0.4%).

Rust

Also a fungal disease, manifested as red spots on the buds, leaves of a flower. They get rid of this pathology by spraying with the appropriate fungicides or Bordeaux liquid (1%). All vegetative parts of lilies affected by the fungus should be removed and burned: this measure will stop the further spread of the disease.

Dangerous for lilies are also viral diseases that are not cured at all. These are, first of all, mosaics: tobacco and cucumber. Disease can only be fought with preventive measures.

Pests

Of the insects, bulb flies and ticks do the most harm to lilies. The fly infects the bulb: its larvae feed on juicy pulp. The tick is able to completely destroy the lily, also gnawing the bulb. They get rid of these pests by spraying the plant with Bazudin (from flies) and Actellik (from ticks). As a preventive measure, spraying with Neoron is carried out.

We got acquainted with amazing plants - tree lilies. It is really difficult to call these representatives of the flora flowers, they are so tall and powerful. However, to decorate the garden, make it brighter, more magnificent and more luxurious, tree lilies are capable of like no one else. Fortunately, despite their outward exoticism, it is not so difficult to grow flowers: the tips from the article will help you with this.