How to care
Consider the features of caring for an orchid and its maintenance after flowering.
Lighting
In winter, there is not enough natural light in our area. Therefore, in order for the orchid to feel normal and be able to recover well during the dormant period, it needs additional lighting. If the plant does not have enough light, its leaves will stretch out, turn pale, and the next growing season will be a big question.
An artificial lamp should be placed at a height of 20-30 cm from the flower. Do not use a lamp that is too powerful: 60 W will be enough.
Temperature
Hypothermia of a delicate flower should not be allowed. If the pot is on the floor, put a stand under it, if on the windowsill - make sure that the flower is not close to the window,
Humidity and watering
During the dormant period, the need for moisture in the orchid is significantly reduced. Watering should be reduced and moistened only as it dries out. The standard watering frequency at this time is every 10 days. It is not worth spraying an orchid in the cool season, as the procedure can lead to decay of the vegetative part of the plant.
Top dressing
During the dormant period, the orchid is rarely fed - no more than once a month, or even less often. The fact is that in winter the plant assimilates the applied fertilizers much more slowly, since the metabolism in its tissues is inhibited.
Important: if the plant needs a transplant, it is best to carry out the procedure immediately after flowering.
Drying reasons
If the stem of your orchid dries up, this may be due to the natural end of the flowering phase. But among the key factors causing such an effect, one can single out the lack of nutrients in the soil, and, in general, your poorly organized care. In order to be able to prevent drying of the peduncle in the future, it is worth considering the causes of this problem in more detail:
bad light. As a rule, difficulties with natural light arise in front of the grower in the autumn. Daylight hours are gradually decreasing, but the orchid still needs to be fed by the sun's rays, otherwise the process of its development will stop and it will dry out. That is, she will be able to form a peduncle, but further blooming of the buds will no longer be possible. In addition, over time, the peduncle itself will begin to turn yellow, dry up and fade.
Keep in mind another important factor: you cannot rotate the pot with the plant and try to make sure that the natural light is even. This will be perceived as stressful, so the orchid may not react at all the way you would like.
In some cases, the plant sheds a dried peduncle;
unsuitable temperature readings. To ensure the optimal microclimate for the orchid, you need to make sure that the temperature regime does not fall below +14 degrees and does not exceed +40 degrees. Hypothermia will not affect the plant in the best way. If you place a flowerpot under the air conditioner or ventilate the room too often and for a long time in winter, the flower stalk will begin to fade. Do not forget also that sunstroke, that is, overheating of the orchid, contributes to the wilting of unblown buds. In addition, they will simply dry up;
dry air. A drying flower stalk in an orchid may be the result of an excessively dry indoor climate. First, you will notice how the general tone of the plant is deteriorating, and then the unblown buds will begin to dry out;
lack of nutrition of the soil composition.The deficiency of such substances as magnesium, phosphorus, potassium and boron does not have the most favorable effect on the quality of flowering and the formation of peduncles.
If an orchid completely dries up a peduncle, there may be several reasons for this. Reconsider the way you care for your indoor plant - you may have made mistakes somewhere. In any case, the situation can be remedied. The main thing is to find the source of the problem and then act.
Epiphyte problems
Does not fire an arrow
If all the requirements for care are met, the orchid blooms once a year (maybe more often). Why sometimes does she not release a peduncle? There are a number of reasons for this. Insufficient lighting, improperly selected substrate, lack of feeding, stressful state of the plant, improper watering - this is a list of the main negative factors affecting the state of the epiphyte, and, therefore, its desire to bloom.
If the orchid does not have enough lighting, then it does not release a peduncle, but increases the mass of leaves. And when a peduncle appears, buds are not laid on the shoot. The way out of the situation is simple: increase the amount of light, but you should not avoid direct sunlight
In the summer, it is important to remember to shade the plant.
If the substrate is incorrectly selected or the plant is not fed, then the grower does not need to harbor hopes of seeing his beauty blooming. It is important to remember that the epiphyte loves moderation in everything: an overabundance of fertilizers can also negatively affect the condition of the plant.
For example, "Kemira Lux" or "Bona Forte". Before use, be sure to read the instructions for these fertilizers. The same applies to the substrate: for planting or transplanting an orchid, a soil is used that is intended only for this flower.
Stress has two opposite sides. Sometimes experienced flower growers arrange "shock therapy" for their orchid in order for it to release a peduncle (cold, drought, darkness). But stress can have a detrimental effect on the flower. Be sure to remember that everything is good in moderation.
Watering for an orchid is one of the basics of flowering. Moisture affects the laying of the future peduncle and buds. If the epiphyte is watered excessively, then the root system will definitely begin to rot, and the buds will dry out. During the growing season, watering should be systematic, and after the appearance of buds, the frequency of watering is usually reduced. For the appearance of a peduncle, it is recommended to install a container with an orchid in a water bath for 1 hour, during the rest period, watering stops completely.
Humidity. Orchid is a tropical plant that loves humid air. But not during the period of peduncle release. The indicator of the level of humidity in the room where the epiphyte is located should not exceed 30% - 40%.
From the video you will learn about why the orchid does not release a peduncle:
The arrow is released but does not develop
Sometimes the flowering arrow stops growing, for this there may be a number of reasons that are almost identical to those listed above.
- Insufficient illumination. The way out is to rearrange the plant in a more illuminated place.
- Rotten roots. The solution must be radical: the plant needs a transplant. And although it is not recommended to do this during the period of flower stalk release, here we are already talking about the life of the entire flower as a whole.
- Insufficient watering. The way out is to adjust the irrigation pattern. You can cover the top layer of the substrate with sphagnum moss, which will contribute to additional moisture, and also change the acidity of the substrate, after which the peduncle can grow again.
The period of growth of the peduncle - from the moment of appearance until the moment the first flowers appear - is usually about two months.
Dries up
Sometimes the already practically grown peduncle begins to dry out. Why? Here are some of the main reasons:
- Transplant response.The plant assimilates to a new substrate “discards” excess parts. As a rule, this is a peduncle and lower leaves.
- No difference between day and night temperatures. In the bright sun, all metabolic processes in the orchid begin to accelerate, new cells begin to form, and for them the flower needs carbon. The supply of this element is replenished in the cool night of the day. If it is hot at night, then the plant begins to experience a lack of carbon, and, therefore, take the missing from its old cells. The largest supply of carbon is contained in the peduncle, so it dies.
- Lack of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. They are also "pumped out" by the plant from its parts.
As a way out of this situation, experienced flower growers recommend cutting off the drying peduncle to living tissues. This can stop shrinkage, and a new lateral shoot may grow from the dormant bud. If this does not happen, then the arrow will have to be cut off completely, leaving a stump of 1-1.5 cm, and wait for the next peduncle a few months later.
Features of pruning of different types of orchids
We will learn what to do with the arrow when the flowering of the most popular domestic orchids - phalaenopsis and dendrobium nobile stops flowering.
Phalaenopsis
When the flowering of the phalaenopsis orchid comes to an end, you should carefully observe the stem. If the arrow is completely dry, turned yellow, they get rid of it completely.
If it turns out that the arrow still shows signs of life and does not lose its elasticity, most likely there is a chance for re-flowering in a few months. In this case, the peduncle is not completely removed, but only shortened, keeping the dormant buds. Shortening is good because the next growing season does not have to wait for the distillation of a new arrow - the old one will bloom. Phalaenopsis rests from two to six months.
Dendrobium Nobile
This orchid often requires a transplant after flowering. The procedure is carried out without fail, especially if the flower is affected by pests or its roots have begun to rot.
The pseudobulb is removed completely if it is yellowed and dry. If it is elastic and alive, it is simply shortened. Remember that a large amount of nutrients accumulates in the pseudobulb of this orchid, so it is better not to touch it if it is not necessary.
To make the dendrobium recover at home faster after flowering, place it on a southwestern windowsill and protect it from direct sun.
Other types
Other orchid varieties require a similar approach. Cambria, cymbidiums and oncidiums completely deprive the flower-bearing arrow, since dormant buds in this case, after flowering, are not formed on it. The same applies to the miltonia and ludisia species.
If we are talking about the papiopedidium orchid, you need to wait until it completely sheds the buds, and the peduncle is completely dry. Only after this is pruning carried out.
Peduncle prevention and rescue methods
If the orchid has dropped flowers, what to do next depends on the cause and accompanying symptoms:
- With a lack of sunlight in autumn and winter, fluorescent lamps are installed, which are able to artificially extend the daylight hours.
- If the green roots turn gray, and there is no condensation on the walls of the container with the orchid, then the flower needs watering. The main thing is not to overflow or dry out the soil.
- If the stem turns yellow and the plant is overheated, then it must be rearranged to another place from the heating devices. This will save the orchid from dry air.
- If a high temperature is observed in a room with a flower, then it must be sprayed. Spraying the entire stem periodically will help keep the plant from drying out.
- Do not leave the orchid in the sun, otherwise burns will appear on the leaves. The flower is best placed in a shaded area or barred from bright light with reflective paper.
Fertilization is equally important for every potted flower. Without additional feeding, they will not be able to get the necessary elements for development and will not bloom - there will not be enough strength for this.
It is necessary to feed the stem at the moment when the flower begins to overgrow with green leaves and releases a flower arrow. If the orchid sheds buds, you need to fertilize in this way:
- leave it in water for a while so that the beneficial components are absorbed as best as possible into the root system;
- then dilute the fertilizer in water and keep it in such a solution for another 20 minutes;
- after the time has elapsed, remove the container and allow the water to drain.
Attention! After feeding, you need to pay attention to whether the solution remains in the pan, because the accumulated liquid will burn the orchid roots.
Phalaenopsis does not like this, so you need to drain the solution every time it appears. Fertilize the plant with root dressings once every couple of weeks, and use foliar dressings in between, but the simultaneous use of both dressings is not desirable. If you use everything correctly and according to the instructions, then the fallen buds will be replaced with new ones.
Everyone who wants to buy a flower immediately becomes a fan of this plant, and some growers are also engaged in collecting different varieties. If the necessary conditions are not provided, then soon the buds will disappear. So that the phalaenopsis does not throw off its last leaves, it must be carefully looked after, and then the orchid will become more and more magnificent.
The reasons why the flowers of an orchid fall have been clarified, as well as how to predict them. And in order for the plant to bloom again, you need to follow the rules of care: provide the necessary illumination, water and fertilize on time with dressings, keep in comfortable conditions.
How to properly prune an orchid after flowering - watching a peduncle?
If you do not wait for this moment, then you can simply destroy the plant.
Most often, two methods are used: pruning just above the dormant bud, or almost at the base. However, if you shorten the peduncle from above, then the growth of new stems will be slowed down. This is because the plant begins to expend all the incoming energy for the growth of new buds.
For home pruning, it is best to use a garden pruner. It almost does not injure the plant, does not create burrs, into which harmful microorganisms can easily penetrate. Before work, it is advisable to boil the instrument or treat it with alcohol. After the procedure, the cut site is lubricated with activated carbon or iodine. Some orchids have a hollow stem, which can get water when watering, this will lead to rot. To prevent the death of the plant, the wound can be closed with beeswax.
The peduncle is withered - do we remove it completely?
After the peduncle has fulfilled its function, all the buds on it dry out. In this case, the arrow must be completely cut off. The orchid itself dries out its obsolete peduncle and there is no need to force events, trying to shorten it ahead of time. A capricious plant can even die from improper care. The nutrients in the drying flower stalk will support the orchid and heal it.
Once completely dry, prepare for pruning. To do this, you need a pruner or special garden shears. Pruning should be done as close to the bush outlet as possible. Afterwards, it is advisable to sprinkle the wound with cinnamon powder or charcoal.
Sometimes it happens that the peduncle begins to dry not for natural reasons, but due to a lack of moisture in the soil. In this case, it is enough to start regularly watering the orchid, and soon it will bloom. If there is too much moisture in the soil, then the best way to quickly improve the condition of the plant is to transplant.
Interesting: soil for orchids
How to determine if there will be re-flowering?
Many orchid owners want them to bloom endlessly.Unfortunately, this cannot last forever, because the plant needs rest. The chance of re-flowering is increased by the presence of dormant buds. The appearance of new stems and buds will also be a good sign.
With some care of the orchid, the likelihood of re-flowering can be increased:
- keep the temperature in the range from +17 to +22 degrees Celsius;
- transfer the orchid to a bright room, but do not expose it to direct sunlight;
- do not allow excessive soil moisture, it can lead to the appearance of rot and fungus;
- apply fertilizers in a timely manner.
It has been noticed that in adult plants, cases of repeated flowering are much more common than in young ones. An orchid that is older than 2-3 years is considered mature. And for too young plants, re-flowering may even be dangerous, it is especially undesirable for dwarf breeds.
Cutting the peduncle not to the base
If the peduncle is completely dry, then it is cut off under the base. But in some cases this is not necessary and can simply be shortened. If the orchid has already faded, and the arrow remains dense and elastic, then it is not necessary to cut it at the root. Examine it for dormant kidneys. If they are, then trim a little higher.
Later, a strong branch will grow from the dormant bud, and after a few weeks, a bud will appear. Sometimes the wait for re-flowering can take several months. In order to stimulate the formation of buds, it is practiced to reduce the level of watering and alternate higher temperatures with lower ones. In some cases, the trimmed peduncle dries up, this may be caused by improper stem shortening or the poor condition of the orchid.
Possible causes of wilting of an orchid and ways to save it
All causes of yellowing and wilting of orchid leaves can be divided into four large groups:
- unsuitable conditions for keeping a flower;
- improper orchid care;
- plant disease with infections;
- damage to the flower by pests.
Let's take a closer look at these reasons, find out how they affect the health of the plant, and find out what to do if the leaves or flowers of an orchid wither.
Incorrect conditions of detention
Being in direct sunlight. (overheating of the roots) Orchid leaves first turn yellow, and then dry if unsuitable conditions are created for it. These include:
- Dry air. In their natural environment, orchids grow in tropical forests, where it rains every day. Therefore, they are very demanding on moisture. If the air humidity is too low, the leaves begin to wilt. This is especially often the case in winter, when the air becomes dry due to batteries and other heating devices. Humidify the air to save the flower. The easiest and most modern way to solve the problem is to buy a humidifier. You can also try placing the plant pot on water-soaked stones or hanging a lot of wet laundry around the house.
- Low air temperature. In the tropics, the temperature is kept at + 20 ... + 30 о С, and it never drops below +14 о С. At home, maintaining such a temperature is constantly difficult, but it is necessary so that the orchid retains the green color of the leaves. If you cannot raise the air temperature by heating the room, buy a heated mat and place a flower pot on it.
- Lack of lighting. The optimal daylight hours for orchids are 12 hours. If the lighting is poor, or the sun shines less than 12 hours a day, the plant suffers. Its leaves brighten and weaken. The solution to the problem is simple - put the flower pot in a well-lit place. Provide additional lighting in winter. To maintain photosynthesis in plants, special phytolamps are most suitable. A cheap, but less high-quality analogue can be a fluorescent lamp.
- Overheating of the roots.If the orchid stands in direct sunlight, its roots overheat and die from the resulting burns. This is facilitated by the transparent walls of the pot. Dead roots do not supply nutrients to the stems and leaves, so the aerial part of the plant withers. To save a flower, you need to cut off the burnt roots and transplant the flower. Place the pot in a well-lit place with diffused, not direct sunlight.
- Incorrectly selected soil. For orchids, you cannot use what we used to call soil. Flowers die in the potting mix. Instead of soil, plant your tropical guest in a mixture of shredded tree bark, sphagnum, and small stones.
- Draft. Orchids do not tolerate cold air currents. If they often stand in a draft, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Move the flower pot away from openable windows. Do not keep it near an air conditioner.
- Location in the kitchen or other place where vegetables and fruits are constantly located. If the flowers of your orchids dry up quickly, and some of the buds do not even have time to open, this may be due to the action of ethylene gas. It is isolated by some vegetables and fruits. Move the flower away from them to admire the beautiful bloom for a longer time.
An orchid can begin to fade even if you provide it with optimal conditions. This happens when the microclimate changes abruptly. For example, if you bought a flower from a store and brought it home, or borrowed a plant from your neighbors. The difference in lighting, temperature and humidity for such a sensitive flower will be significant. Therefore, he will experience stress. A temporary refusal to transplant, regular watering, humidification of the air and feeding a green pet will help to get out of it faster.