Forms of heart failure
Exogenous
factors
Endogenous
factors
group B
rheumatism, etc.
Increase
(load
volume)
Increase
(load
resistance
Decrease
contractile
capabilities
myocardium
SN overload form
MAIN FACTORS OF HEART OVERLOADING
INCREASING
POST LOAD
INCREASING
PRE-LOADING
Hypervolemia
POLICYTHEMIA
HEMOCONCENTRATION
ARTERIAL
Constriction of the aorta,
HYPERTENSION OF THE PULMONARY ARTERY, PE
FAULTS
VALVES
HEART
STENOSES
VALVE HOLES
HEART
PE - pulmonary embolism
Heart defects
Heart defects are congenital or
acquired defects standard
heart architectonics and / or disorders
buildings,
location,
also
the relationship of its great vessels,
growing
probability
leading
disorders
intracardiac and, as a result,
usually systemic hemodynamics.
Classification of heart defects
HEART DISEASES
Congenital
WHITE TYPE
BLUE
TYPE
transposition
trunk
Vessels
(blood discharge
on right
left)
Fallot's tetrad
with blood discharge without blood discharge
from left to right
from left to right
non-closure
oval window
disease
Ebstein
ventricular septal defect
stenosis
pulmonary artery
congenital
failure
mitral
valve
open arterial (Botallov) duct
combined defects
congenital
stenosis
aortic valves
COMBINED
FAULTS (combined
stenosis and mitral insufficiency or
aortic valves)
ACQUIRED
FAILURE
VALVES: mitral,
tricuspid, aorta,
pulmonary artery
STENOSIS
pulmonary artery
* There are many more congenital heart defects
than shown in the diagram, which indicates only the most often
occurring nosological forms.
Violation of the intracardiac
hemodynamics in PPS
A - NORM
B - STENOSIS OF THE MITRAL VALVE
B - INSUFFICIENCY OF MITRAL
VALVES
D - STENOSIS OF THE AORTIC VALVES
D - INSUFFICIENCY OF VALVES
AORTES
E - STENOSIS OF THE THREE-LEAVE VALVE
F - INSUFFICIENCY
TRIPLE
VALVES
H - STENOSIS OF PULMONARY VALVES
ARTERIES
AND - INSUFFICIENCY OF VALVES
PULMONARY ARTERY
A - aorta; LA - pulmonary artery; LP -
left
atrium; PP - right atrium;
LV - left ventricle; RV - right
ventricle
a) acute (minutes, hours);
b) chronic (weeks, months, years).
a) compensated;
a) myocardial;
b) reloading;
c) mixed (combined - a combination of myocardial and overload).
a) systolic;
b) diastolic.
b) right ventricular, which is characterized by a decrease in the release of blood into the pulmonary circulation, hyperextension of the right heart and stagnation of blood in the systemic circulation;
a) volume (for heart defects with valve insufficiency, congenital non-closure of the interventricular septum, hypervolemia)
b) resistance (for heart defects with stenosis of the holes, coarctation of the aorta, arterial hypertension, polycythemia).
Planting cineraria
Growing cineraria outdoors begins with growing seedlings. Since these flowers are quite thermophilic, in most regions of our country, seedlings are first grown from seeds in room conditions, which are later planted in open ground.
For sowing, a special mixture is prepared: peat and sand, taken in equal parts. Then it is placed in containers in which the seeds of this plant are planted. Sowing is usually carried out in the first decade of April. The seed is not buried in the ground, only the crops are slightly compacted with a wooden ruler. Then the soil is sprayed from a sprayer and the containers are covered with polyethylene to create a greenhouse effect inside.
The first shoots of cineraria usually appear 1.5 weeks after sowing.
The first shoots usually appear 1.5 weeks after sowing. When most of the seeds have germinated, the polyethylene is removed and the containers are moved to a lighted area. After 2 - 3 true leaves appear on the seedlings, the seedlings should be cut into separate cups (preferably peat ones). In this case, when planting cineraria in open ground, each plant can be planted together with a glass, which will gradually dissolve in the ground.
Timing and technology of planting cineraria in the open field
Planting strong seedlings in open ground should be in the second decade of May, when the likelihood of the return of spring frosts has already been left behind. The place for flowers must meet the following requirements:
- the sun should be on the site in the morning and evening (but not in the afternoon);
- the soil must be well fertilized;
- there should be no stagnation of moisture in the soil;
- and groundwater should not come too close to the surface of the earth;
- the reaction of the soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline.
Planting holes for planting seedlings are dug at a distance of 22-25 cm from each other. It is better if the seedlings are planted together with the peat cups in which they grew. Or seedlings are planted along with an earthen clod. In this case, the plants get sick less and adapt faster to new conditions. After planting, the soil is slightly compacted and the seedlings are watered.
Features of planting room cineraria at home
Planting these flowers for growing at home should be the same as for seedlings for open ground. It should only be remembered that indoor varieties of this perennial grow only in a closed room, the temperature in which should be constant - about 20 degrees. Indoor species do not tolerate higher temperatures, but they do not like cold either.
You can propagate these indoor flowers by dividing the bushes. This procedure is usually carried out in the last decade of February, when the plant is still dormant. The flower is carefully removed from the pot together with a lump of earth, the soil is gently shaken off from the roots and the root is divided into several parts. Each part is placed in a separate container filled with nutrient mixture and watered well.
The nutrient mixture for this plant can be prepared at home. To do this, take equal parts of leafy soil, compost and peat. You can also add a little vermiculite and pine bark there.
You can propagate cineraria by dividing the bush
The most common varieties
Cineraria silvery is considered a very popular plant among other species. It is suitable for growing both at home in a pot and outdoors. This variety is distinguished by very interesting leaves, which have a silvery tint and are covered with the smallest hairs. If the leaf is rubbed a little, it becomes smooth and bright green.
Often this plant is called cineraria of the sea, because the leaves are somewhat reminiscent of the color of the sea wave. The leaves are often lowered, they perfectly repel water, which makes it possible to grow marine cineraria even in conditions of high humidity and frequent rains.
Cineraria silvery does not produce bright inflorescences. Its flowers are very inconspicuous, yellow in color. Something like tansy. But gardeners are very fond of the plant for its decorative leaves, which help to highlight other small bright plants. Cineraria has carved sea leaves on the edges, which looks great when grown on city curbs. Cineraria silvery is undemanding to care, it tolerates both sun and shade well.
Cineraria silver seaside. The unusualness of this plant is in the structure of the bush and leaves similar to coral thickets and a silvery coating on the leaves.
Another name for cineraria is due to the similarity in color to sea foam - sea cineraria. The height of the bush is 25 cm. Flowering time is July-October.
In the warm climate of southern Russia, undersized cineraria bushes are successfully planted in large flower beds in parks.
Particular attention should be paid to indoor varieties. Cineraria hybrid can only be grown indoors at a temperature of about 20 ° C
Such a plant does not tolerate both heat and cold. Cineraria is distinguished by interesting leaves, the shape of which resembles a heart. But at the same time, she produces lush inflorescences like a basket.
Cineraria hybrid has a subspecies of cineraria mix. This plant is considered the most common among indoor florists. This name comes from the fact that this variety is famous for the brightest inflorescences, which can be of different shades. The height of an adult plant can reach 60 cm under optimal conditions. But one thing should be remembered: all parts of such a plant are poisonous.
The most popular is the cultivation of such a plant from seeds. This is not difficult at all, since they sprout well, and the sprouts rarely get sick. It is best to sow seeds in mid-spring so that mature plants can be obtained by early summer.
Growing cineraria from seeds, both indoor and outdoor, is best done in a nutrient substrate, which consists of equal parts of river sand and peat. In this case, it is recommended to use wide, but shallow containers. The seeds should be deepened slightly, and then the container should be covered to create greenhouse conditions. Immediately after the formation of the first permanent leaves, the plant can be dived into pots or into open ground.
But indoor cineraria is very convenient to propagate by dividing the bushes. It is best to do this at the end of winter, when the dormant period ends and the active growing season begins. To do this, you need to remove the bush from the ground, gently shake off the ground from the roots and divide it into several parts. Each new plant is planted in a separate small pot of nutrient medium and watered abundantly.
Cineraria is an ashy cross.
Composition of cineraria and begonia bushes on the Black Sea embankment.
In landscaping, silvery cynararia bushes are used as a living border and framing backdrop for brighter colors.
Pathogenesis
Serious hemodynamic disorders occur. Overcoming the resulting overload of the heart muscle is possible only with a significant increase in the activity of intact myofibrils, which requires a significant increase in their energy supply.
Under these conditions, mitochondrial hyperfunction occurs. In this case, the energy generated in them is almost completely spent on providing contractile activity, which allows myofibrils to function in an enhanced mode for a certain period of time. However, as a result of mitochondrial hyperfunction, mitochondria can be damaged and even destroyed, which, obviously, leads to an increase in energy deficit in the myocardium and, as a consequence, to a weakening of protein synthesis, which is necessary, among other things, for the formation of new mitochondria.
In chronic heart failure, the myocardium is affected by a less pronounced pathogenic factor than in acute heart failure. Under these conditions, part of the energy generated in hyperfunctioning mitochondria can be spent on supporting the processes of protein synthesis. As a result, a very important sanogenetic mechanism is activated - the development of myocardial hypertrophy, which allows overcoming excessive load for a long time.
At the same time, myocardial hypertrophy also contains a significant pathogenetic potential, which begins to manifest itself especially sharply at later stages of its development.The fact is that the development of hypertrophy is accompanied mainly by an increase in the mass of myofibrils (contractile elements experiencing hemodynamic overload), while an increase in the number of mitochondria and the mass of microvessels lags behind.
Thus, per unit mass of the myocardium, the number of mitochondria and the number of vessels in the hypertrophied myocardium becomes relatively smaller in comparison with the heart muscle of a healthy person. All this sooner or later leads to a deficit in energy production, which is becoming chronic. In the myocardium, the so-called wear complex of the hypertrophied heart develops, characterized by a deficiency (oxygen, death of myofibrils, their replacement with connective tissue elements, and a lack of mitochondria).
We dive gerbera seedlings
Gerberas dive when young seedlings produce a second rosette of leaves. All professionals say this. For this, pots, plastic cups or any other containers with a volume of 100 g are used. Drainage holes are necessarily made in their bottom. Expanded clay is laid at the bottom. The soil is used the same as for planting seeds.
I had a slightly different situation. My first gerbera shoots from seeds did not have time to give a second rosette of real leaves, but I still made a dive. Why? Because there was very little soil in the greenhouse (let me remind you that for the first time I poured a layer of soil 3 cm high into the greenhouse. This turned out to be not enough). As a result, the seedling roots began to intertwine and interfere with each other.
Let me remind you that the gerbera has a very delicate root system. Any manipulation with it has a bad effect on the health of the plant as a whole. After picking, gerbera seedlings need mild conditions. This is a temperature of + 19 ... + 23 degrees, moderate watering and high humidity, a proper level of illumination. So, I carried out the picking of the gerbera on February 26 (planting the seeds was carried out on February 2). For picking, I took 200 ml cups. The soil was poured a little less than half (the amount of soil should be commensurate with the size of the root system). Why take a large plastic cup and fill it halfway with soil? After all, you can take a small container for picking. The answer is simple. After a pick, gerberas need increased air humidity. Covering the glass with gerbera film, you can create a mini wig for the plant.
After picking, cover the cups with gerbera foil and put them on the window. I have these windows on the east side of the apartment, where the sun shines until 15.00. After sunset, I turned on the artificial lighting. I have a phytolamp. She shone until 22.00 every day. Watering was carried out rarely, since moisture evaporates slowly in the greenhouse.
After a pick, gerberas need gentle care conditions. This is a temperature of + 19 ... + 23 degrees, a high level of air humidity (a mini-greenhouse is needed), artificial lighting for 12-14 hours, moderate watering.
A month later, that is, on March 29, my gerberas grew somewhat. Some did not survive the pick, although the conditions of the plants were the same. Based on my observations, I made a conclusion. It is necessary to disturb the roots of the gerbera as little as possible and to carry out the first pick even when the gerbera has accumulated a sufficient volume of green mass (from 4 real leaves).
The seedlings were taken care of as follows: the greenhouse was removed when the third rosette of leaves had grown enough. The temperature of the content was kept at the level of + 19 ... + 23 degrees. Watering as the soil dries up, no fertilizing was carried out.
Read the continuation of the article on growing Jameson's gerbera from seeds at home. Second planting, personal experience, growing problems and their practical solution.
Cineraria: growing from seed, process
For a potted cineraria flower, growing from seeds should begin with the acquisition of high-quality planting material.To do this, you need to contact a specialized store. Rustic seeds are famous for their good germination rate. A convenient sowing period is the first decade of the fourth month. But sowing cineraria seeds specifically for home cultivation is permissible at any time of the year.
To do everything right, you can use the ready-made recommendations of experienced florists:
- the container for seed reproduction is selected no more than 7 cm in depth;
- drainage holes at the bottom of the container are required;
- suitable soil for germinating seeds - clay humus substrate;
- the seeds should not be buried, they should be evenly spread over the surface of the sowing soil, sprinkled with white sand a little or sand should be dispensed with, covering the crops with thin, abundantly moistened paper;
- the paper should be constantly moistened from the sprayer; you should not remove it, since the seeds will perfectly germinate through it;
- in order to avoid erosion of crops, it is necessary to moisten the soil from a water spray;
- after the container with seedlings is covered with glass or light-transmitting film, constantly opening and ventilating, preventing the accumulation of condensation;
- lighting for seedlings must be provided bright, but the light must be diffused;
- germination lasts about 3 weeks and is uneven;
- as soon as the seedlings hatch, the greenhouse is removed from the container;
- if necessary, young seedlings can be thinned out, leaving the most viable of them at a distance of 2.5 cm from each other;
- at the time of the appearance of two permanent leaves, young flowers are planted in pots.
Quite good planting material - seeds of the company Aelita "Room cineraria, mix". The seeds are small, even small. No soaking required.
