Description of all types and varieties of cyclamen: names with photos and their main characteristics

Introduction

The peculiarities of the metabolism of this plant significantly limit the periods of its activity. Cyclamen is a relatively capricious plant. Low and excessively high temperatures stop the development of the plant and its growth, and the cyclamen may even go into hibernation. At high temperatures, it is always associated with loss of leaves and flowers. Therefore, cyclamen is more common in regions with colder climates.

Cyclamen at the age of about two years

The variety of the plant, as well as its unpretentiousness, made cyclamen one of the most popular home flowers.

Cyclamen with a lot of flowers

It blooms during cold weather, when other plants are dormant or dormant. The duration of the flowering of cyclamen will delight any indoor gardener, while one plant can have 30-50 flowers.

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How to care?

At home, caring for a flower is not very difficult, but it requires adherence to some rules.

  1. First of all, you need to find a suitable place for the alpine violet. The plant, although unpretentious, loves diffused light and well-ventilated rooms. Drafts are contraindicated in the flower.
  2. Temperature conditions are very important. It belongs to cold-loving plants, therefore it does not tolerate high temperatures. An alpine violet feels comfortable at temperatures ranging from + 14C to + 16C.
  3. If in the summer it is not possible to maintain the temperature optimal for growth, then the plant can be transferred to the basement. However, there must be sufficient lighting in the room. If this is not possible, then the flower can be left in a room where the air temperature should not exceed + 25C.
  4. In winter, when heaters and central heating radiators are turned on in the room, it is recommended to place the cyclamens away from heat sources. In this case, you need to monitor the level of humidity in the room, and water the plant in a timely manner.
  5. Too low room temperatures and excessive watering can lead to rotting, and then to the death of the flower.

How to water properly?

Alpine violet is a moisture-loving plant that needs to be watered promptly, abundantly and regularly at home.

At any time during the life of a flower, watering requires accuracy. It is recommended to water cyclamen through a sump, since water ingress on the stems, peduncles or tuber provokes rotting. Cuttings or flowers first begin to become covered with brown spots, and then the plant dies.

Water for watering the plant should be at room temperature and be separated. Watering plants with tap water is not recommended. If the flower requires watering, and there was no settled water in the house, then you can pour it with boiled water, previously cooled to room temperature.

When caring for an alpine violet, it is necessary to ensure that the water in the pan and pot does not stagnate for a long time. After the flower is watered, and all layers of the soil are saturated with moisture, excess water must be poured from the pan.

The Persian tuber rises above the soil, so the plant can be watered in the usual way.

Top dressing

Twice a month, during the period of active growth of leaves and during flowering, the alpine violet should be fed.

It is recommended to feed at home during watering with special fertilizers for flowering plants.At the same time, nitrogen fertilizers should not be abused, an excess of which will negatively affect the quantity and quality of flowers, and lead to a strong foliage build-up.

Resting care

After the plant has faded, its leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. This is the first sign that the flower is entering a dormant period. At this time in home alpine violet requires special care.

  1. All dry leaves and flowers must be cut off.
  2. Strong leaves need to be cut closer to the root. It is not recommended to cut them off.
  3. It is necessary to water the plant rarely and in small doses. The soil should be slightly damp all the time.
  4. It is recommended to rearrange the pot in a cool shady place.

After flowering, the life of the alpine violet is supported by its tuber.

Transfer

Caring for a plant at home includes a flower transplant, which is usually done during the summer. In this case, you must follow some rules:

  • after transplanting, the upper third of the plant tuber should remain above the ground;
  • the transplant is carried out in a pot, which should be 2-2.5 cm larger than the previous one;
  • the soil can be prepared independently by taking for this leafy soil, river sand, humus and peat in proportions of 3: 1: 1: 1;
  • before planting on the bottom of the pot, you must first pour a layer of expanded clay, then add the prepared soil, on which to place the plant and sprinkle it on the sides with an earthen mixture;
  • watering the plant can be started only 10-12 days after transplanting;
  • in early September, when young leaves begin to form, the flower must be rearranged in a cool but sunny place.

Causes of diseases

Often there is a situation when you fully comply with the rules for caring for a plant, but it still starts to get sick. In such a situation, most likely you still broke some rules:

  • The plant has been located in a too hot room for a long time;
  • The transplant was carried out in a pot that did not correspond to the size of the flower;
  • Irrigation was carried out from above, not through the sump;
  • The plant received no fertilizers, or they contained a high concentration of nitrogen.

There are often such situations when the cause of a plant disease lies in pests. If deformation of flowers or leaves occurs, then, most likely, aphids or ticks attacked the flower. To get rid of insects, you will need to treat the plant with special solutions.

If the watering was carried out too abundantly, the process of decay may begin. In this case, you need to remove the tuber, remove the affected areas, treat it with a manganese solution, dry it and plant it again in the ground, having previously steamed it. Further care must be extremely careful.

Cyclamen care at home

Lighting and temperature

Cyclamens are photophilous, but do not tolerate direct sunlight. It is better to keep them in partial shade. Grow well on the windowsills of western and eastern windows. South windows will need shading from direct sunlight. Plants may lack light near northern exposure windows.

A prerequisite for the normal development of cyclamens and their abundant flowering is a light and cool content in winter (about 10 ° C, no higher than 12-14 ° C). In summer, the preferred temperature is in the region of 18-25 ° C (the pot with the plant can be taken out to a shady place and dug in).

Watering and spraying

During flowering, the plant is watered abundantly or moderately, with soft, settled water, avoiding both waterlogging and overdrying of the earthy coma

Water the cyclamen should be carefully, to the edge of the pot, trying not to soak the buds and tuber, and even better - from the pallet

Do not allow water to enter the core of the plant - rotting of the tuber may occur. The water temperature should be 2-4 ° C below room temperature. After 1-2 hours, excess water is drained from the saucer so that the roots do not rot.After flowering, watering of the cyclamen is gradually reduced, and by the beginning of summer, when all the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the tubers remain naked, water is rarely watered.

Before buds appear, the plants are sprayed from time to time. With the appearance of buds, spraying of cyclamen should be stopped, otherwise they may rot. To increase moisture, the plant can be placed on a pallet with damp moss, expanded clay or pebbles. In this case, the bottom of the pot should not touch the water. It is better to use rainwater, filtered or settled water.

Cyclamen. liz west

Top dressing

During the period of growth of the leaf mass before the beginning of flowering, the plants are fed every 2 weeks with a full mineral fertilizer. Cyclamens respond well to organic fertilizers. Do not give a lot of nitrogen fertilizers - tuberous roots can rot.

Caring for a flowerpot at rest

The flowering of cyclamen continues for quite a long time. Depending on the variety and room conditions, it can start from the second half of October and last until the end of March. In the spring, at the end of flowering, the plants go into a dormant state (they begin to lose leaves). In this regard, watering is gradually reduced, and by the beginning of summer, when all the leaves turn yellow and dry, and the tubers remain naked, water is rarely watered.

The room where the plants are located is regularly ventilated. It is even better to take the pots with tubers out to the garden or to the balcony in a place protected from the sun for this time. After a dormant period (late summer - early autumn), cyclamen is placed in a bright cool place and watering is gradually increased.

Another option for storing the tuber until the new winter season is as follows. After the end of flowering, watering is significantly reduced. Then, after the leaves have fallen off, the cyclamen pot is placed on its side and kept in this position until the next season.

Cyclamen grows for 10-15 years and can produce up to 70 flowers annually. Faded and wilted flowers are removed along with the peduncle. As the flowers wilt and the leaves turn yellow, they are pinched off (but not cut off) at the tuber itself. The break points should be well sprinkled with charcoal powder.

Cut (plucked) flowers of cyclamen stand well in water (1-2 weeks). The water in the vase should be changed after 2-3 days. After cutting, the ends of the peduncles are dissected lengthwise for 2-3 days. This lengthens the cutting period to 2-3 weeks.

Transfer

In late summer and autumn, when small heart-shaped leaves begin to sprout from the cyclamen tuber, the plants are brought into the room and transplanted into a wide bowl with a fresh, loose mixture of leaf earth, humus, peat and sand (2-3: 1: 1: 1).

The substrate can consist of 2 parts of a leaf, 1 parts of well-decomposed humus soil and 0.5 parts of sand. The acidity of the substrate (pH) should be around 5.5-6. At a higher pH (about 7), plants become susceptible to various fungal diseases.

In the process of transplanting cyclamen, they are monitored so as not to damage the roots, and decayed roots are cut out. For 1 kg of substrate, you can add 0.4 g of ammonium nitrate, 1 g of superphosphate, 4 g of phosphate rock.

Please note that when transplanting, the tuber must not be completely buried. One third or even half of the tuber should be above the soil surface, which will have a beneficial effect on the further flowering of the plant.

Provide good drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Cyclamen. Andrea_44

Cyclamen propagation methods

V home breeding cyclamen is quite possible, although each of the options has its own pitfalls. In total, there are two available methods: tuber shoots and seeds.

Tuber shoots

Since the cyclamen has only one growth point, it is possible to divide the tuber only when it has processes with separate buds. This usually happens with an old plant, and the signal will be poor flowering, small leaves - a sign of aging.Then, at the end of the dormant period, the tuber must be dug up and these bulges must be cut off with a sterile instrument so as not to introduce infection through the wound.

Cyclamen tuber

Keep all the pieces in a growth stimulant and an antifungal solution. Then sprinkle the slices with crushed activated carbon, dry and plant all the fragments in separate containers. They should not be large so that there is no more than 1 cm gap between the pot wall and the tuber.

This option is quite traumatic, requiring accuracy. It is carried out in the period before the start of the growth of new leaves. You need to take care of new seedlings in accordance with all the requirements, as for an adult plant.

Growing from seeds

The seed method of reproduction involves two options for obtaining seeds. Reliable - buy professionally assembled in the store, this is a guarantee that in the end exactly the variety you have chosen will bloom. And cheap - collect your own. But this is a long journey, sometimes it lasts up to a year. Here you need to wait for flowering, pollinate the flowers with a brush to form seeds. Do not touch them until the peduncle is completely dry until the opening of the box begins.

Cyclamen seeds

To grow a flower from seeds, you need to soak them for a day in water with the addition of potassium permanganate, then sow 1 pc. after 2 cm into the groove, sprinkle with earth and cover with an opaque lid. The time of emergence of shoots will depend on the temperature of the place where the container will be located: if it is 20 degrees, then shoots will appear in two months. Lowering the temperature will greatly shorten the time. But lower it without fanaticism, we are talking about 16-18 degrees.

When the seedlings appear, they need to be provided with diffused light and all other conditions for caring for the cyclamen. A pick into individual pots (or better cassettes) is carried out after the appearance of three leaves.

This method of reproduction has one significant nuance: if the seeds are harvested on their own, then this whole laborious and long process can end with the flowering of a completely different variety than you expected, if suddenly the mother plant was a hybrid, which you might not know.

Algorithm for transplanting into another pot

First you need to figure out when it's time to transplant cyclamen. There are three reasons:

  • a new flower after purchase needs to be replaced with shipping soil;
  • the tuber has grown so much that it touches the edges, it becomes cramped;
  • the plant is sick and needs to be replaced with soil mixture.

The cyclamen is transplanted during the dormant period, after the disappearance of all the leaves.

For different species, these are different times: the European is transplanted in the fall, and the Persian in the spring or summer. The process looks like this:

  1. Prepare the pot. If we are talking about a sick cyclamen, then the pot can be left, just washed and treated with a medicinal preparation inside. A grown plant needs to pick up a bigger pot, but not drastically, but only 2-3 cm wider than the previous one, since in a too spacious flower it will grow a tuber and refuse to bloom for several seasons.
  2. Pour drainage material at the bottom: expanded clay, pebbles, broken shards.
  3. Add soil and arrange the tuber. Here, too, specific nuances: we bury the European tuber completely, the Persian - we leave it in the air for a third. Then pour earth on the drainage, taking into account the type of cyclamen.
  4. Sprinkle the mixture of earth on the sides, not ramming, but slightly pressing down with your fingers.

Soil for cyclamen

Cyclamen likes neutral soil with a high proportion of compost, nutritious and loose. This happens in the zone of its natural habitat, it is formed from fallen leaves and is layered every season.

You can just buy a suitable soil in the store ready-made - special for cyclamen is sold. But you can do it yourself. For the mixture, you need to take in equal amounts of leafy soil, compost, peat and sand, and mix everything.

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Types of cyclamen

In order to make less mistakes when caring for indoor cyclamen, first of all, you should figure out which species and varieties are most often sold in specialized stores, how they differ. Mainly, varieties of Persian cyclamen (C. persicum) are marketed. Adult plants are 15-30 cm high (depending on the variety). They have a flat-rounded tuber with cord-like roots and a single apical growth point. Large or small, with corrugated petals or double, fragrant or odorless, flowers come in all kinds of colors: from light pink to red or purple, sometimes there are two-color variations.

Distinctive features of this type of cyclamen are the green color of the underside of the leaves and lush flowering from October to April. After flowering, the plant loses its leaves, and it begins a dormant period. In August-September, Persians wake up, begin to actively grow leaves and bloom. To date, breeders have developed modern varieties of cyclamen that do not shed their leaves and go on sale all year round.

They are grown using special chemicals, the use of which knocks down the natural cycles of plants. Therefore, the acquisition of a cyclamen that blooms at the wrong time will lead to the fact that for some time it will tune in to its own regime, or having wasted energy on premature flowering, it may soon die.
A little less often on sale you can find purple cyclamen (C. purpurascens), which is characterized by low (up to 15 cm) growth, small leaves (up to 2-4 cm in diameter) and small white-pink-purple flowers. It differs from Persian cyclamen by the presence of roots located throughout the tuber, the purple-red color of the underside of the leaves, and also by the development cycle - it blooms in summer, and rests in the autumn-winter period. He does not shed leaves, or sheds partially.

With age, daughter branches appear on the tuber, which are used for reproduction (in the Persian cyclamen, children are not formed). It is very rare to buy this type of cyclamen in a store, it is more realistic to buy it from flower growers who grow it in garden soil on the street. Purple cyclamen is widespread in France, Poland, southern Germany, but it is also found in Ukraine, where it is able to survive the winter without any shelter.

In the flower shop you can also buy Neapolitan cyclamen (C. neapolitanum) or ivy-leaved cyclamen (C. hederifolium). This species is distinguished by deeply lobed or pointed, like ivy, leaves with a pronounced silvery pattern. Pink-purple flowers at the base have a dark V-shaped speck (white-flowered varieties do not have it). In summer, the plant rests and sheds its leaves (Persian cyclamen), and daughter nodules form on the roots (like a purple cyclamen). This type of cyclamen blooms in August-October immediately after a dormant period, being in a leafless state. Only after flowering, leaves begin to grow, with which it hibernates.

The flower is winter-hardy (it can withstand frosts down to -28 ºС), therefore it is the most profitable for growing outdoors. Grows well in the sun and in the light shade of trees. It tolerates drought normally and will bloom in the fall, when many flowering plants complete their growing season. It is this cyclamen that adapts to home conditions better than others, grows faster and lives for a rather long time (up to 50 years). It is worth noting that until 1972 in European countries, the last two types of cyclamen appeared under the same name - European cyclamen (C. europaeum).

It may seem to beginner flower growers that it is quite difficult to deal with various varieties and conditions of their maintenance, but this is not always the case. If you adhere to the detailed instructions for maintaining and caring for a flower, then you can figure out not only their own regime, but also understand what species the cyclamen belongs to,even if it was bought from an unscrupulous seller.

Cyclamen

Reproduction of cyclamen at home

The European alpine violet can be propagated in two ways: by seed and by dividing the corm. For the Persian cyclamen, only the first method (seed) is suitable, since its rhizome forms only one point of growth and cannot be divided.

Growing from seeds

Sowing of cyclamen with seeds is carried out at the end of summer. Seed material is purchased at a store or grown independently. For this, artificial pollination is carried out: pollen is transferred from one flower to another using a cotton swab. The procedure is repeated several times. The ideal time for pollination is a sunny morning. The seed pods ripen for 1-3 months. How to grow cyclamen from seeds at home:

  1. Pour the ripe seeds with a sugar solution (concentration 5%). Throw out the floating ones, soak the drowned ones for 24 hours in a mixture of Zircon and water (4 drops of the drug per 500 ml of liquid).
  2. Pour 2-3 cm of expanded clay on the bottom of the growing container (with drainage holes), and on top 5-6 cm of a soil mixture consisting of an equal amount of peat, leaf earth, vermiculite and sand.
  3. Water the ground, sow seeds 2 cm apart. Cover with a 1 cm thick layer of substrate.
  4. Cover with foil, place in a room shaded from direct sunlight with a temperature of 19–20 ˚С. Ventilate crops periodically, spray from a spray bottle.
  5. After 1-3 months, when the seedlings "hatch", remove the film.
  6. When 1–2 first leaves and a small tuber appear, dive the seedlings into separate containers.
  7. After 1–2 weeks, feed with a solution of Floretta (1/4 cap for 2 liters of water).
  8. A new plant will bloom only after 2–4 years, depending on the quality of its care.

Tuber division

In this way, the duck is propagated when it is in the final resting phase, just before awakening. The method has a big drawback - the mother and new plants often die, no matter how you provide them with care. Step-by-step instructions for growing a perennial from a tuber:

  1. Remove the rhizome from the pot, cut so that each part has a root and a bud.
  2. Treat the sections with crushed activated carbon or brilliant green, dry for 2-3 days.
  3. Plant in a damp bulb substrate (Florin, Tulip). Place containers in a lighted place, water as needed.

Landing

To plant cyclamen at home, you should know how to collect seeds. To collect, you need to wait until the long stalk bends in a spiral and begins to hide the fruit-box under the leaves, pressing it to the ground. At home, you need to extract the grains from it, selecting the largest ones.

Before planting, they are soaked for 15 hours in a manganese solution or for 12 hours in a growth enhancer such as "Epina" or "Zircon". During this time, it is necessary to prepare a container with a substrate for cyclamens. You can do it yourself, the main thing is that it is breathable. For this, coarse-fiber peat, leaf turf, humus, sand are used in equal proportions.

Grooves are made in the soil, moistened with a spray bottle, and seeds are scattered at intervals of 2-3 cm. Usually, it is advised to cover the container with a film and put it in a cool, but bright place with a temperature of no higher than 20 (or better 15) degrees.

Seedlings will appear in a month, after which the film or newspaper is removed. The container is rearranged under bright diffused light, but without increasing the temperature. The plants dive after the appearance of the second pair of leaves. After 3 months, when the seedlings grow themselves small tubers and a few leaves, they are transplanted into permanent pots (if the plant grows in the house). For this, it is imperative to use drainage.

The tubers should be planted so that the top half is above the ground. A week after planting, the young are fed with ammonium sulfate (2 g per 1 l of water), and 10-14 days later - with potassium nitrate (1 g per 1 l of water).The first year, the seedlings will grow very slowly, as they grow the tubers. But on the second they can already bloom. By this time, the flower is transplanted again, deepening by 2/3.

In the same way, young nodules are planted from an adult plant. But at the same time, the torn roots must be sprinkled with crushed coal. The transplant is carried out into new soil if the pot has become small.

Reproduction by dividing a tuber is a more complex process.

15-18 months after sowing the seeds, the flower blooms vigorously. And after flowering, the leaves also wither, leaving a bare tuber. This is just a dormant period, not the death of the flower. At this time, watering is significantly reduced, only moistening the ground. And the plant does not like high temperature. Experienced growers reduce room temperature by adding snow and ice to the pan.

During the period of active growth, the plant requires regular watering through the pan and humidification of the air around the flower. Cyclamen does not need dampness in a pot: it is better to water less often, but more abundantly, without moisture getting on the leaves.

The rise in temperature is perceived by the flower as a time of rest. It is optimal to maintain a temperature of 10-19 degrees, especially during the flowering period. At the same time, the cyclamen loves good lighting - additional lighting will be required in winter.

But it is important not to overheat the flower under the lamp.

The plant is fed every two weeks during the growing season, and never during the dormant period. Minimum nitrogen and more potassium and phosphorus. Since cyclamen naturally lives in deciduous soil, it will need organic fertilizers at home.

Therefore, it is important to draw up a feeding schedule, alternating between its different types.

For the intricacies of growing cyclamen, see below.

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