30 species and varieties of calla lilies, planting and care in the open field, growing in the garden

The best varieties of thornless blackberries

The concept of the best variety is very relative, for someone the taste is important, someone wants to get the maximum yield, while someone's grandchildren come only in June, and even a handful of berries during this period will be enough to call the variety the best. Of course, the best varieties should have a great taste, beautiful bunches of berries that win either in the amount or in the size of the fruits, but there are also many such varieties at the moment. However, not all varieties can successfully bear fruit on the territory of our country with its severe frosts, therefore in this article we will consider the most popular varieties of thornless blackberries from the point of view of the possibility of their cultivation in Russia.

The earliest

With the onset of spring, gardeners pay a lot of attention to the earliest varieties of blackberries, which give their first harvest in early June:

• Natchez. Large and beautiful berries of this variety are appreciated for their unique taste, to which the tasters unanimously assign the highest score. Features of the variety - high yield and early fruiting.
• Columbia Old Pleases with high resistance to diseases, large-fruited and the possibility of harvesting in an automated way. Drought tolerant.
• Loch Tei. One of the sweetest varieties. It is notable for its high yield and drought resistance. Berries are high in vitamin C.

Shipless grades for Moscow region

In the Moscow region, any blackberry needs shelter for the winter, but even with the arrangement of protection, not all varieties are tested by negative temperatures. In addition, I want to choose a variety with excellent taste, high yield, resistance to shade, drought, diseases and pests.

Popular varieties of summer residents near Moscow:

• Thornfree. One of the first studless varieties bred by American breeders in the middle of the last century. For a month and a half of fruiting, it produces 22 kg from a bush. berries weighing 5-7 grams. each one. Flavor ranges from sweet and sour to sweet and sour at different stages of maturation.
• Navajo. The variety is not large-fruited, but for 30 years it has been the record holder for the number of berries from one bush. Gardeners are attracted by unpretentiousness to growing conditions.
• Lochness. It is considered one of the best varieties for commercial cultivation. It is notable for its beautiful large berries that do not lose their excellent qualities during transportation.
• Black Satin. Very tasty berries for fresh consumption and conservation, high yield, on average 25 kg. from the bush. Ripe berries are very beautiful - black, with a glossy shine.
• Triple Crown. Suitable for industrial cultivation. Large "currant" berries with a very interesting taste, reminiscent of plums and cherries at the same time.
• Buckingham Tiberry. The thornless hybrid of blackberry and raspberry Tayberry has absorbed the best qualities of these two cultures - taste, aroma, useful properties. The weight of one berry can reach 15 grams.
• Chester Thornless. Does not require special care, flexible, short shoots can not be cut or tied to trellises. Berries have excellent taste and good transportability.

Repaired

The repairing varieties of the thornless blackberry are not yet widespread. For many years, gardeners rejoiced in the Ruben variety, whose thorns practically do not cause trouble when picking berries, and then disappear altogether.

In 2009, Arkansas scientists managed to develop the first thornless remontant blackberry variety: Prime Arc Freedom. It pleases gardeners with beautiful giant fruits with a magical taste, however, in central Russia it can only be grown under film.

Follow-up care of the culture

Caring for Black Satin blackberries is more difficult compared to other varieties due to the need to constantly form a bush and the problems that thick, stiff shoots deliver.

Growing principles

Growing Blackberry Black Satin without a garter is impossible.Although her lashes are devoid of thorns, they are very long, without formation and trimming, they grow first upward, then descend to the ground and take root. With a powerful shoot-forming ability of the variety, impassable thickets can be obtained in a season. It is very difficult to tidy up a running blackberry, since the branches are thick, stubborn and break easily.

The shoots of Black Satin must be taught to be placed on the trellis when they reach a length of 30-35 cm. The lashes are bent to the ground and secured with staples. They are lifted onto the support after reaching 1.0-1.2 m.

Necessary activities

Blackberry is a moisture-loving culture. Black Satin is extremely productive and therefore needs more water, especially during flowering and berry formation.

Other blackberry varieties recommend starting feeding in the third year after planting. Black Satin quickly grows green mass, forms many lateral shoots and berries. Top dressing begins in a year:

1. In the spring, immediately after thawing or directly in the snow, they give the first, nitrogen fertilization.
2. At the beginning of flowering, blackberries are fertilized with a full mineral complex.
3. Further, once a month (until August), the plant is fed with diluted mullein infusion (1:10) or green fertilizer (1: 4) with the addition of ash.
4. In August and September, the bushes are fertilized with phosphorus and potassium. It dissolves well in water and gives excellent results potassium monophosphate.
5. Throughout the season, foliar feeding should be done, they are also called fast. It is good to mix fertilizers specially designed for these purposes, humate, epin or zircon and a chelate complex. The latter prevents chlorosis and nourishes the Black Satin blackberry with trace elements necessary for the health of the plant and a good harvest.

It is better to replace loosening with mulching with sour peat or humus. Harrowing is carried out after planting shoots on supports, harvesting and before sheltering for the winter.

Shrub pruning

Black Satin brambles should be pruned regularly. 5-6 strong shoots of the last year are left for fruiting. The side lashes are constantly shortened to 40-45 cm, the weak and thin ones are cut out completely.

Shoots that have finished fruiting are removed before shelter for the winter. In the spring, 5-6 best lashes are left, weak lashes, frozen or broken ends are cut off.

For the Black Satin variety, the leaves also need to be rationed. During the ripening of the crop, those that shade the fruit bunches are cut off. Just don't overdo it! Blackberries need foliage for nutrition and the formation of chlorophyll.

Advice! In the first year after planting on Black Satin, it is recommended to pick all flowers.

Preparing for winter

We will assume that you have taught young shoots to climb the trellis, as described in the chapter "Principles of growing". Before winter, it will remain to cut out the whips that have finished bearing fruit at the root, remove the annual growth from the support, fix it on the ground. Then you need to cover the blackberries for the winter with spruce branches, agrofibre and cover them with soil. Special tunnels can be built.

Important! It is necessary to open the blackberry in the spring before budding begins.

Diseases and pests: methods of control and prevention

Like other varieties of blackberries, Black Satin is ill and rarely affected by pests. If you do not plant raspberries, strawberries and nightshades next to it, spring and autumn processing with copper-containing preparations will be enough.

The problem for Black Satin is the gray rot of the berries. In order to prevent disease, the fruits must be removed as they ripen every 3 days.

Top dressing

When growing black calla lilies, it is important to properly feed. Usually the plant is fed two months of the year: March and April.

The rest of the time, feeding is not applied. Although, in order for the flower to please with flowering all year round, it is recommended to feed more often. For this purpose, the plant is fed twice a month.

For calla lilies, you can apply compost by adding it directly to the soil. Fertilizers diluted in water can be used.As the latter, use any liquid dressing intended for ornamental flowering plants or special fertilizer for calla lilies.

Burns can sometimes occur at the edges of the leaves. This suggests that the fertilizer is not chosen correctly, the plant is overfed. Burns are caused by excess nitrogen. The less light the plant receives, the more it will consume nutrients from the soil.

Planting and care in the open field

Planting prepared calla tubers (preparation of the tubers for planting in the ground is the same as for indoor cultivation) is carried out in early May. The tubers are planted to a depth of 7-10 centimeters, at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, after planting, water the soil abundantly. The first shoots appear 2-3 weeks after planting. All this time, the soil can not be watered, there is enough moisture introduced into the soil during planting.

Planting a calla lily and leaving is impossible without the main components:

• Lighting. Zantedeschia grows naturally in shady swampy places, with well-fertilized soil. In the garden, choose shaded areas for planting, if we are talking about an indoor flower, then the northwest windows will be the ideal place.
• Moisture. Plants require good soil moisture, frequent spraying.
• Top dressing. Regular fertilization. Zantedeschia loves well-fertilized soils. Apply fertilizer every 2-3 weeks, this will provide you with a beautiful and abundant flowering, no worse than in the flower beds of Dutch flower growers.
• Warmly. Do not forget that the African woman loves warmth, so the air temperature must be at least 14 degrees, and the daylight hours must be at least 10 hours.

To grow beautiful calla lilies at home, it is not necessary to be a professional florist, despite its exoticism, this flower is not too demanding in care. Caring for rhizome calla lilies is not difficult.

How to grow beautiful calla lilies in a pot? Remember, calla remanna loves spacious pots, as soon as the calla leaves turn yellow - this is a sign for an early transplant. Calla rhizome grows rapidly.

Houseplants calla lilies, like orchids, bloom several times a year in autumn and spring. The intense flowering period for potted garden calla lilies can last from November to May, provided you select the right fertilizer for the calla lilies. Fertilizing the calla plant should be done every 5-6 waterings. If the soil in the flowerpot is not acidic enough, you can slightly acidify it by watering the flower with a weak solution of vinegar or water with the addition of lemon juice.

Callas grown in a pot during the warm season will do great outdoors. Plant calla lilies, like other plants, in prepared soil. Often, after landing in the open air, zantedeschia begin to turn green and grow abundantly. In the fall, calla lilies need to be dug out before the onset of cold weather.

Reproduction, planting and transplanting of red lilies

Before planting, you need to prepare fertile land and choose a sunny, calm place. Although some species can grow well in partial shade, it is better to clarify the preferences of the selected variety in advance and find a suitable place in the flower bed

It is also necessary to pay attention to the need for transplanting the variety.

Most often, lilies are planted starting in mid-September, but spring and early summer are also suitable for planting. Bulbs for planting must meet the following requirements:

• be quite large and "fleshy";
• the scales should have a healthy appearance and not be overdried;
• without stains, mucus, rot.

In order for the bulb to take root and sprout, it is advisable to follow these simple instructions:

• treat lily bulbs with Fundazol to protect against fungus, and then Epin - a growth stimulant;
• carefully remove the dead scales and roots from the bulb;
• after planting, the bulb must be sprinkled with earth and a special granular fertilizer must be added.

Lily planting scheme

In gardening, there are several options for planting lilies.The choice of the scheme primarily depends on the height of the selected variety. For low species, a "three-line" scheme is used: between the bulbs and lines - 10-15 cm, between the rows - 70 cm. For medium-sized varieties, a two-line scheme is used: between the bulbs and lines there should be 15-25 cm, and the rows should be at a distance of 70 cm apart. There is also a one-line scheme in which the bulbs are planted at a distance of 5-15 cm, and there can be 50 cm between the rows.

Transplanting plants also requires adherence to certain rules. Flowers should be repotted every five years on average to avoid crushing the flowers. For the transplant to be successful, you must do the following:

• cut off the stems near the surface of the ground;
• carefully dig up the onion and remove the dried scales;
• then divide the onion into shares and hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate;
• make holes, carefully plant the bulbs in them so as not to break the root system;
• sprinkle with sawdust or peat on top.

Lily transplant

Lily propagation occurs in several ways, and each gardener can choose the most convenient for himself:

1. Dividing the bulb - in the fall, the bulb is dug up, small parts are separated and placed in a pre-selected and prepared place.
2. Reproduction by scales is especially popular. About a third of the scales are separated from the bulb, which are then planted in the ground and covered with sawdust or sand. With systematic watering, these scales give roots.
3. Separation of babies from the root of the stem.

4. Propagation by stem bulbs, which sometimes fall off themselves and take root in the ground.

5. Propagation by cuttings - parts of the stem with a dormant bud or stems with leaves. Cuttings are planted in the ground at a shallow depth. When the so-called bulbs are formed on the stems, they are removed and planted in separate containers. Over time, the transplanted bulbs germinate.
6. Seed propagation is time consuming. In early spring, seeds are planted in containers before the first shoots appear. Then they dive and keep warm until winter, and then hibernate at a temperature of + 4-6 degrees. If the seedlings survived the winter successfully, they are planted in a permanent place. With this method of reproduction, the plant begins to bloom only after 5 or even 7 years of life in a permanent place.

It will also be interesting: Lily tree - planting and care, varieties, names and descriptions?

Description

Calla Black Magic

Calla Black Magic (Calla Black Magic) is a herbaceous perennial tuberous flowering plant. The height of an adult plant reaches 40 to 70 centimeters in height. Leaves are green with white specks. The flowers of this plant are unusually yellow.

It blooms well and grows only in warmth, where the temperature is not lower than 18 ° C, the most optimal temperature is 22-23 ° C. Does not tolerate drafts. The peduncles of this plant are tall and come straight from the bottom of the plant. The flowering period is from July to September. This beautiful plant blooms outdoors for 1 month and indoors for 14 days. It is a moisture-loving plant that requires water to always be in the pan. Calla Black Magic prefers acidic, humus-rich soils. This plant is odorless. Does not require special care. It is possible to grow it in the garden and at home as a houseplant that will delight you with its beautiful flowers.

calla bulbs, you can easily order from us. And if it is difficult for you to choose, then our specialists will be happy to help you. Also, our attractive prices and quality goods will be a pleasant surprise for you.

• Description
• All photos (5)

Calla is a perennial herb with a tuberous rhizome. The leaves are large, arrow-shaped, on long petioles, juicy-green, shiny, and in some varieties the leaf blades are decorated with silvery-white translucent spots.It has a single inflorescence, typical for all aroids, in the form of a creamy yellow ear, surrounded by a large funnel-shaped blanket, on a long peduncle. The color of the bedspread is varied: white, yellow, pink. Interspecific hybrids also have a creamy blanket, and by the efforts of breeders, pink shades are brought to carmine and lilac shades.

Calla Black Magic / Zantedeschia Black Magic /

The variety of this bright yellow calla is called Black Magic / that is / Black magic / at first glance it is not clear why, yellow and black magic. But if you look at the flower from above, the secret of this original variety will immediately be revealed.

Because in the depths of the funnel of the yellow veil, we will see a dark purple almost black spot that attracts attention and bewitches with its beauty.

Calla Black Magic is rather large, the height of an adult plant is 40-70cm, and it can even grow up to a meter. Large bright yellow flowers and very large leaves, green with white specks, are quite noticeable, that is, they can be distinguished from other varieties. Calla flower retains its decorative effect for a month, and growing in the garden and one and a half. Although calla is an exotic plant for us, but it can be grown in the garden and at home, as a houseplant.

Care

In the first days of planting, the plant is watered; on hot days, watering is doubled. It is necessary to ensure that there is no stagnation of water. If you are planting a plant in a garden, you can plant a flower near a body of water.

Black calla lilies need a properly organized feeding. Fertilizers are applied in March and April. Fertilize the plant with compost, put it directly into the soil, you can dilute it with water. For a flower in a pot, special organic and mineral complexes for indoor plants are used. After two months after planting, the plant begins to bloom before fall.

What if the calla is not blooming? There are several reasons:

• weak root system;
• excess nitrogen fertilizers;
• insufficient sunlight;
• cramped pot.

How to make calla lilies bloom? First, you need to identify the problem, if the case is in the flowerpot, a transplant will help. The introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers will help accelerate flowering. The flower also needs winter rest. During this period, the stems and leaves die off, place the flowerpot in a cool place until spring. Water the plant periodically so that the bulb does not dry out. After rest, the calla will bloom and delight its owners with abundant flowering.

Reproduction

The peculiarity of the exotic flower is that it is easily propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and tubers.

Seed propagation is mainly used by breeders; growing in this way is a laborious process. First you need to collect the seeds, then put them on a tray, cover with a damp paper towel, place in a warm place. After the seeds have germinated, sow into a container filled with soil.

Cultivation by dividing by bush and tubers. In autumn, the plant is dug up, the root collar is trimmed, placed in a pot. Tubers can be purchased at a specialist store and must not be rotted or damaged. A healthy tuber looks like a potato.

Diseases and pests

With improper care, black calla is attacked by pests and infectious diseases. Infection is indicated by yellow, dull, crowded and dried leaves.

Often the plant is sick with anthracnose, brown spots appear on the leaves. Over time, they grow, a red rim appears at the edge of the sheet, and mold forms in the center. The development of the disease is affected by increased air temperature, excess moisture. You can heal the flower by removing all infected leaves and treating the calla with a fungicide. Before use, it is worth reading the description of the drug, studying the instructions.

Calla suffers from attacks of such pests:

1. Red spider mite sucks sap from leaves and stem. The fact that a tick has settled on a plant is the appearance of small white dots on a leafy blade.Over time, a thin web envelops the flower. In the fight against the pest, drugs are used - acaricides and insectoacaricides.
2. Aphids also feed on plant sap, the leaves turn yellow, curl. The flower stops blooming, becomes covered with sugar clots. Aphids lead to the appearance of other insects - ants. In the fight against the pest, chemicals help: Decis, Actellik, Inta-vir, Neoron, Aktara.

Diseases and their treatment

If you take care of calla lilies incorrectly, and also pick up the wrong soil, then there will be a high probability of disease.

Anthracnose is a fungal disease. It is quite common in these flowers. Signs:

• brown spots that increase over time, the edges turn red;
• mold appears;
• leaves dry up and curl;
• the stem weakens.

Causes:

• unsuitable temperature;
• high air humidity;
• abundant watering.

Treatment:

• remove affected leaves;
• reduce watering;
• remove from heating devices;
• treat with antifungal agents.

Powdery mildew appears in flowers already affected by the fungus. It manifests itself in such signs as a white bloom, which grows rapidly, and over time covers the entire plant. After a short time, the leaves begin to turn black, and then they die off.

How to fight:

• remove the affected parts;
• treat with antifungal agents (1 time in 7 days, 3 weeks);
• reduce watering.

Also, this ailment can appear in dry soil.

For the rules for planting tubers, see below.

5. Reproduction

Species plants can be propagated by sowing seeds, but for this you need to be patient - plants obtained from seeds bloom for the first time 3-5 years after sowing. Varietal calla lilies during seed propagation can lose their attractive appearance. Vegetative methods or division of adult calla lilies are more widespread.

5.1 Growing from seeds

You can collect seeds from your own plants by choosing the largest and most brightly colored bedspread. After flowering, the peduncle with a veil is left on the plant and the seeds are waiting for the ripening. Fully ripe planting material is dried in a warm place for 2 - 3 days.

Seed germination is quite low and to increase it, it is worth pre-soaking the seeds in warm water with the addition of drugs such as epin and zircon for several hours.

Sowing seeds is carried out in late February - early March, using seedling boxes with a lid and drainage holes. The boxes are filled with soil and the seeds are spread on its surface.

From above, the seedlings are covered with a layer of substrate 7-10 mm thick and abundantly irrigate the soil surface with a spray bottle. The boxes are covered with a lid, which is lifted daily and condensed water is removed from it.

With the appearance of the first shoots, the shelter is removed. When 2 leaves are formed on each plant, the seedlings are dived into separate cups. 7 - 10 days after the dive, the first feeding with nitrogen fertilizers is carried out in a very weak concentration.

You can pre-germinate the seeds under a damp paper towel and plant them in the ground only when the first shoots appear. Germination usually occurs within a week and during this time it is worth maintaining an even humidity by spraying a napkin with water from a spray bottle.

5.2 Division of calla lilies

The division is carried out both with the help of daughter nodules, which from time to time will appear near the mother plant, and by cutting a large tuber with several points of growth. In this case, the places of the cuts must be treated with brilliant green and dried in the open air for several hours before planting.

After planting, such delenki are watered very carefully - the slightest gulf will provoke the appearance of rot on unhealed wounds. Rhizome Ethiopian calla lilies reproduce in a slightly different way.

At the beginning of autumn, the plants are removed from the soil, shaken off the remains of the soil.The root collar and rhizome are separated by hand. The rhizome is planted back into the pot and stored in a dark and cool place at a temperature of about 12-15 degrees with high humidity. Within a couple of months, the first shoots may appear in the pot.

Calla Zantedeschia Ethiopian: description and features of cultivation

Calla zantedeschia ethiopian
Calla aefiopica L.
or calla belongs to the Aroid family. Homeland: Africa.

It is a flowering plant that produces a first-class cut in commercial floriculture and continues to bloom in rooms.

Pay attention to the photo - the Ethiopian Zantedeschia calla lily has large, wide, arrow-shaped succulent leaves 60-80 cm long, on fleshy tender stalks:

The flowers of the Ethiopian zantedeschia are original in their structure. A large flower arrow ends with a wide asymmetrical bell in white or yellow. This "cover" is surrounded by a narrow ear, consisting of dense, inconspicuous flowers. The roots are cordlike, fleshy. They move away from a succulent tuberous rhizome, around which a large number of offspring with small weak leaves develop during the year.

See what a zantedeschia flower looks like in these photos:

Breeding features.
Calla is propagated by seeds or offspring. Seedlings are grown throughout the year in ordinary bowls filled with crushed expanded clay, sand. The largest offspring are separated from the mother plant in June-July after flowering and planted in wide low pots.

Features of cultivation.
Shade-tolerant and moisture-loving, prefers acidic, humus-rich soils. The pots are placed in wide trays and kept on the north and east windows. Calla lilies bloom at the age of two in the fall (November) and bloom all winter. When leaving behind calla zantedeskiy at home, from the beginning of flowering, they periodically give foliar dressing with microelements (boron, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, potassium iodide, copper) and are often sprayed with clean water. After flowering, the leaves turn yellow and the growth of calla lilies stops, although the roots continue to develop. During this period, all offspring are removed at the base of the bush, as they weaken the plant and delay flowering. The yellow leaves are cut out. After resting, calla lilies develop powerful leaves and begin to bloom if the rules of care are followed. Calla is planted in a mixture consisting of peat soil, clay-sod and humus with the addition of sand (1: 1: 1: 1/2). Calla grows superbly in clear peat.

In boxes, it can be planted together with Kredner's begonia, and with other ornamental plants. To care for the zantedeschia flower as carefully as possible, in the summer it is kept outdoors, and in the fall it is brought into the room. During the period of leaf development, abundant watering and feeding are needed. In hydroculture it grows well for many years in gravel, expanded clay, peat, on various nutrient solutions at pH 5.0-6.0. The first days after planting the offspring, water is fed into the substrate, then a nutrient solution of 50%, and after 2-3 weeks - 100% concentration. The air temperature should be approximately + 15-17 ° C, humidity - 80-85%. At a higher temperature and a lack of light, calla leaves stretch out, break easily, acquire a light green color, and the number of flowers decreases sharply.

Here are photos of Zantedesk Ethiopian care at home:

Today we will talk about a popular flowering plant that came to us from South Africa. It will be about the nuances of cultivating at home and wintering Ethiopian calla lilies. If you call this plant universal, then you will be one hundred percent right. They are used to decorate dwellings, include in bouquets. This is an excellent greenhouse plant.

Several features of the Ethiopian calla lily:

1. Big sizes.
2. Wide, succulent, shiny leaves.
3. Heart-shaped bright green leaves.
4. The original structure of the flower is an inflorescence-ear on the arrow.
5. The beginning of flowering is the second half of the winter period.
6. The plant pleases the eye with magnificent flowers for one and a half to two months.

So, let's move on to the main questions.

Care after cutting

Aristocratic, black calla is a mesmerizing sight. The scope of application of colors is extensive. In cut form, they are used in festive bouquets, interior decoration.

To keep the flower fresh for a long time, florists advise keeping it in a cool place. Water in a container at room temperature.

Bouquets with black calla lilies

Calla lilies, especially black ones, will not leave anyone indifferent. Stylish and elegant flowers will be an excellent decoration for any interior, like classic or minimalism. A bouquet with black calla lilies can be diluted with white or red roses. For a romantic dinner or a business meeting, you can decorate clothes with a flower, it can add sophistication to any outfit. Recently, bouquets with an exotic flower can be found at wedding ceremonies.

Black calla lilies are mesmerizing, no one will be able to pass by, or look away from them.

{SOURCE}

Description of the Black Queen variety

All types of anthuriums that are grown in the room are divided into several groups according to the color of the leaves:

• Variegated.
• With leaves of an original shape.
• Green-leaved.

Anthurium is distinguished by its original flower shape, which makes it easy to distinguish it from other plants. Its ear is wrapped in a bright shiny stipule, commonly called a flower. The stipule color can be almost any shade of red, white or even black. Rather, it is not black, but dark red.

This is how the Black Queen hybrid was created by the breeders. This is not the only variety with a dark stipule, there is also a chocolate blue one. Their names correspond to the color of the stipule.

Features of the structure of the variety:

• Black Queen leaves are green. They do not change their shade throughout the entire period of life.
• The shape of the leaves is cordate. The petiole is straight, growing vertically. Leaf length 30 cm, width 25 cm.
• Plant height reaches 80 cm. This is a tall variety of anthurium.
• Peduncles are laid in the leaf axils. When they grow, they exceed the height of the bush, towering above the leaves.
• Stipule Black Queen in the initial period of flowering is painted in a burgundy shade. Over time, it darkens, and after a while it becomes black with a barely noticeable reddish tint.
• The texture of the bedspread is corrugated. It is made like this by embossed veins. The flower can be up to 20 cm long.

Anthurium Black Queen has an interesting feature: flowers with stipules of two colors can appear on one bush - some black, others red. The ear looks original. At first it is white, then it takes on a greenish color. Together with a black veil, it looks not only spectacular, but also somewhat mournful. Therefore, not all growers like it. It is preferred by those who like to grow something original.

Caring for the red variety of lilies

Red lilies, like any other flowers, require some care. Some varieties require more care, some are not too whimsical and do not even need to be dug out for the winter.

Lighting, temperature and humidity

Absolutely all garden species love the sun, loose soil without moisture stagnation and the absence of strong drafts. Some species can bloom beautifully in partial shade conditions, but this mode is undesirable.

It is important to remember the rule: the top of the lily is in the sun, and the bottom is in the shade.

Although lilies love the sun, they can overheat during particularly dry weather. To avoid this, it is advisable to mulch the ground at the roots of the plant with light sawdust or straw. Also, in dry weather, the flower requires a little more moisture than usual. Do not forget that although Liliaceae do not like drafts, the place for their planting must be well ventilated so that the optimal temperature regime is maintained.

You need to be very careful with watering. Gardeners say that it is better to slightly dry the lily than to pour it over, because the bulbs with rot can no longer be revived.To avoid such cases, do not be lazy to mulch your garden flowers to always be sure that the plant has enough moisture and the earth is not over-dried by the sun.

Watering, feeding, soil care

Lilies do not like excess moisture, but at the same time they need regular watering. Most of all, you need to water the plants in early summer and directly during flowering. It is advisable to water in the morning or in the daytime under the root, and then slightly loosen the ground. If you have prudently mulched the root system of the flower, there is no need for loosening. After the buds wither, the plants need less moisture, but this does not mean that you need to forget about them. Water until late autumn to protect the flowers from drying out.

Lilies need to be fed several times a year. The first complementary food is done in early spring, before the shoots appear. Complex fertilizers are used for this procedure. The next feeding is required already during the budding period. You can use the same fertilizers as the first time.

After the last buds have bloomed, the bulbs need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to recuperate.

Gardeners advise removing the buds from first-year lilies. This is explained by the fact that in the first year the flower should get stronger and gain strength. This procedure will help you to admire large healthy buds in the future.

The acidity of the soil should be carefully monitored. Some species do not tolerate the presence of lime, while for others it is a guarantee of health. Also, do not neglect fertilization, because many varieties need fertile soil and an impressive humus layer.

Preparing for winter

As mentioned earlier, all varieties have features of care, including different resistance to frost.

Based on this, it is important to select lilies based on the climate of your place of residence. If you come from places where autumn and winter are not too wet and frosty, you can not limit yourself in choosing a flower.

If the region has very wet and frosty winters, then Asian and OT hybrids, pipe lilies are perfect.

Tubular lily

These varieties are distinguished by the best frost resistance, so there is no need to worry about their safety. Oriental varieties and hybrids of this variety are less resistant to frost. Following these instructions will preserve your garden plant:

1. For the winter, you need to insulate the soil. As soon as the weather becomes dry, the ground is covered with fallen leaves and spruce branches.
2. Some varieties (for example, oriental) need to be covered with a film or any other material that can provide dryness and keep warm.
3. Ideally, it is necessary to additionally mulch the soil with peat, it can perfectly protect the plant from hypothermia.

Lilies are not afraid of frost, but of excessive moisture. The less moisture flows to the bulbs, the slower the ground will freeze, which means that the flower will have a better chance of surviving the frost.

It will also be interesting: Terry lilies - varieties with names and home care?