Black petunia

Content

The conditions of keeping for this breed are quite simple. Since the fish are large, a pair will need an aquarium of 70 liters or more. If a school of fish is to be planted, the volume must be increased. The main thing is to observe the height of the container (at least 40 cm) for their comfortable movement.

Black scalar does not require compliance with special parameters of acidity and hardness (average). The suitable temperature for keeping them is 24-28 degrees Celsius. At a lower temperature, the fish's immunity decreases, and they become vulnerable to various diseases.

Black scalar prefers clean water saturated with oxygen. Therefore, a powerful filter and aeration are required. Once a week, you need to replace 1/5 of the water.

Since under natural conditions the black angelfish lives in thickets, you need to provide something similar in the aquarium. The background and corners can be densely planted with plants, leaving room in the center and front for free swimming.

Black velvet is not very fond of bright lighting. The light is set based on the requirements of the aquarium vegetation. As for the soil, then coarse and medium-sized sand, artificial soil without dye is suitable

It is important that there are no sharp corners on it.

The neon lights in the aquarium emphasize the color of the fish.

Black scalar is a schooling fish

It is important to plant an equal number of males and females as the fish prefer to live in pairs. As a rule, breeders buy several young fish.

When they grow up, they will break into pairs on their own. Those that are left alone are to be sold. Black scalar is a faithful fish, having chosen a partner once, they will be with him until the end.

Fish feed on bloodworms, daphnia, koretra, they will not give up small crustaceans, boiled fish and even minced meat. You can also give combined ready-made feeds. Once a week, it is recommended to arrange a hungry day for the fish, as a prevention of diseases and strengthening the immune system.

In good conditions, the fish can live up to 10 years.

Botanical characteristics of black petunias

A native of South America, wild petunia became the subject of breeders' interest in the 18th century. About 40 species of these outstanding representatives of the Solanaceae family are known, which quickly won the sympathy of the gardener around the world.

In the wild, there are both annual and perennial black petunias growing in a herbaceous form, or as a dwarf shrub. Their growth, depending on the species, ranges from 0.1 m to 1 m. Cultivated varieties, as a rule, are low herbaceous plants with large flowers of bright and saturated shades.

Black petunia: photo

Ampelous black petunias cannot boast of a branched and powerful root system, which is close to the tap-type rhizomes. Its shoots cannot penetrate into the deep layers of the soil, which should be borne in mind when planting petunias in a summer cottage. Petunia stems are erect or creeping, depending on the variety. The flowers are mainly located singly and can be simple or double, often with a not very pleasant smell. Plants bear fruit in bivalve capsules filled with very small seeds of black petunia.
Black petunia belongs to the young varieties and was bred in 2011, but has already managed to gain worldwide fame and the status of a recognized favorite among representatives of its genus. To date, several varieties of black petunia have been bred, which will be described in more detail below.

What kind of fruit is a black apricot?

Black apricot is considered a novelty that is just beginning to spread across Russian gardens. However, this fruit was described by Michurin. The miracle was created by nature itself, dusting the nearby growing cherry plum and apricot. Some of the gardeners tasted the fruit, appreciated the taste and sowed a seed. This is how the black apricot appeared.

Breeders all over the world, including Russian ones, cross varieties to nullify the disadvantages of the hybrid and multiply its advantages.

In a black apricot, the fruit is smaller than usual, pubescent, has an almost black color

Black apricots are common in Asia, the USA, and Western Europe. In Russia, this unusual garden culture is planted in the Transcaucasia, the Volga region and the Moscow region, and some varieties are grown in Siberia and the Far East.

Description of the species

The plant is not a very tall tree, like a bush. The crown of most varieties is not thickened, it is easy to prune. From cherry plum to apricot, the ability to bloom and set fruits in late spring was transferred. Therefore, return frosts do not affect the harvest. There is no periodicity in fruiting, like a regular apricot. Black varieties bear fruit every year.

The fruits are smaller, the pulp is more fibrous, the stone is difficult to separate. The surface is velvety, ranging in color from orange to dark purple and violet. The aroma is apricot, the taste is spicy with sourness. If fresh black apricot is inferior to the traditional taste, then for preservation, without any doubt, they give it preference. Black apricot blanks are both more appetizing and aromatic, and the taste is multifaceted.

The pulp of the fruit is juicy, fibrous, does not separate from the stone

Features of growing Black Apricot

This horticultural crop is very easy to care for. If an ordinary apricot often suffers from winter frosts and spring frosts, gets sick (curly leaves, cytosporosis, moniliosis, etc.), constantly attracts aphid colonies, then with a black apricot everything is the opposite. Diseases and pests do not pass to it even from infected trees growing nearby.

The culture is winter-hardy, the trunk is not affected by frost, so there is no need for spring sealing of winter wounds. Slower spring development is more likely to be an advantage, as flowering begins when it is already warm. In addition, black apricot is self-fertile, but it is also well pollinated with ordinary apricot, plum, blackthorn, cherry plum.

Black apricot is very effective at the time of flowering

Disadvantages of a hybrid

  • smaller fruits;
  • the pulp is denser and more fibrous;
  • the bone does not separate from the pulp;
  • the unusual color is alarming for many;
  • varietal plants reproduce by scion, the seed does not convey maternal qualities.

Modern breeders cross varieties with each other, as well as with cherry plum and blackthorn to create productive and frost-resistant plants.

Diseases associated with excess moisture (and not only)

In some cases, the fungal disease simply spoils the appearance of the bush, in others it kills the sick petunia, and then the plants growing nearby ...

Powdery mildew

In this photo, the mealy spots are scattered over the leaves of the petunia, but the stem and even the flowers can become infected with them.

The spots arise due to the vital activity of a special fungus that releases whitish spores. They cover the surface of the plant, interfere with photosynthesis, and over time, the leaf plates begin to curl and then dry out.

Such an attack may occur due to:

  • a sharp temperature jump (say, a pot of seedlings was sharply put out of the house onto the street, or there is a big difference between night and day temperatures while there is a big difference);
  • critical lack of sun;
  • excess feeding (and primarily nitrogen);
  • excess watering and / or spraying.

What to do if an "enemy" is detected:

  1. Cut off all diseased leaves and flowers, and if you do not mind, pluck the plant itself. Did Petunia grow in a flower bed? Do not throw diseased leaves into the compost pit, but immediately burn such plants.
  2. If the discarded petunia grew in a single pot, discard the soil as well.If it grew along with other (so far healthy) flowers, collect the top ball of soil and replace it with a fresh one. Before this, it is advisable to treat the soil with "Fitosporin-M".
  3. Treat flowers with "Fundazol", "Fast" or "Topaz" (you need to spray the seemingly healthy plants growing nearby).
  4. If powdery mildew has just begun to appear on the leaves, and the flower grows in the house (for example, these are seedlings on the windowsill), you can try to get by with more gentle means first. For example, spray petunia with mustard solution, garlic tincture, intense pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda-soap solution.

Gray rot

It differs from powdery mildew in fluffiness of spots.

This disease is serious - in just 3 days, petunia can die irrevocably.

The reasons for its occurrence are the same as for powdery mildew: excess moisture (both in the air and in the ground), lack of sun, excess nitrogen in the soil.

How to fight:

  1. Destroy suspicious leaves or plants.
  2. Treat all neighboring flowers with "Fitosporin", "Trichodermin" and other preparations of the same plan.
  3. To prevent putrefactive processes in the soil, carefully collect all the rotten, fallen leaves.

Black rot (black leg, neck)

A soft stem, blackening of the entire stem or only one of its points - these are the signs of such a disease. Hard, yellow, twisted leaves should also alert you. Bad news: this disease is fatal for a flower.

Causes of the black leg:

  • close planting of flowers,
  • excess moisture in the soil, excessive spraying,
  • high acidity of the soil (for example, it can simply be taken from the garden without checking the acidity).

What to do:

  • most likely, when you saw the signs of the disease, the plant was already doomed,
  • you can fight for neighboring petunias with the help of "Maxim", "Fitosporin", Bordeaux liquid, or at least potassium permanganate.

Prevention:

  1. At high acidity, the soil can be softened with lime.
  2. When picking up soil in the garden, ignite it in the oven (you can also spill it with boiling water).
  3. The soil can be spilled with onion peel tincture or a preparation with sulfur (say, "Cumulus").

Late blight

This disease hides at the very bottom of the stem. First, this part rots and darkens, and then suddenly the whole petunia also withers.

The reasons for its appearance may be excess moisture (even too abundant dew), as well as a sharp cold snap.

You will not have time to cure petunia.

But you can carry out prophylaxis by treating balcony boxes or a flower bed with "Profit", "Ridomil" or another preparation with copper in the composition.

Brown spot (phyllosticosis)

Dark spots on the front of the leaves are round at first, then they grow and stretch. And all this - against the background of the gradual wilting of the infected petunia.

Like other fungal diseases, brown spot occurs due to excess moisture.

Your actions:

  1. Cut off any speckled leaves and burn. Also, collect and destroy all leaves lying in a box or on a flower bed - they can also be sick.
  2. Treat the infected and neighboring plants with a product with copper in the composition (for example, "Kartocide", copper oxychloride). Course: 2 times a week, rest for 10 days, repeat.

Other diseases

Chlorosis

Seedlings or leaves of an adult plant turn yellow or become light green.

Reason: lack of iron. Moreover, it is not necessary to blame poor-quality soil / top dressing for this. Sometimes the roots of a plant are so weak that they simply cannot assimilate this element from the soil.

Your actions:

  1. The flower needs to be fed with iron. This can be done by the foliar method (so the assimilation of a useful element will not depend on the roots). Spray the petunia with the chelated iron solution. Iron vitriol, Ferovit are also suitable.
  2. Also consider any factors that could weaken the plant's root system. Is petunia in a cold room? Are you pouring it over, which caused rotting in the roots? Are the seedlings / flowers in the pot cramped?
  3. If the leaves are very yellow, you will have to pinch off the buds to prevent them from blooming. Blooming weakens petunia, and now it needs all the strength to recover.

The plant will be treated from several days to several weeks.

Sunburn

Petunia is a flower that prefers to bathe in the sun.

The sun, as a rule, does not harm adult plants. But the seedlings can burn.

If you sharply expose sprouts accustomed to diffused light under generous directed sunlight, their leaves may suffer. Therefore, immediately after transplanting seedlings "at will" it needs to be shaded a little.

Also, overfeeding the seedlings with nitrogenous fertilizer can end with a burn (due to damage to the roots, they will not be able to function correctly, and this will be reflected on the leaves).

Finally, a similar pattern can be seen on the leaves after frost.

What can be done in any of the above cases?

  1. Pinch the affected areas.
  2. Treat flowers with Epinom (plant immunostimulant).
  3. Some growers advise a whole cocktail for seedlings: 2 drops of "Zircon", "Citovita" and "Epina" per 1 liter of water.

Landing

When planting cherries, you should adhere to the following order:

  1. Before planting, in two weeks, it is recommended to fertilize the land with a special complex composition for cherries at the rate of 20 grams per 1 square meter. You can add top dressing to the ground from the composition: potassium 100g, compost 8-10 kg, superphosphate 150-200 gr. per 1 square meter.
  2. Planting begins with digging a hole. The width and depth are approximately the same, from 70 cm to 100 cm. The soil from the pit is divided into fertile and infertile.
  3. At the bottom of the pit, you can pour a thin layer of pebbles, rubble.
  4. It is advisable to drive a strong peg 30-50 cm into the center of the planting pit to tie the seedling.
  5. Seedlings the day before can be soaked in water for several hours, followed by dipping the roots in a mixture of clay, to protect them from direct exposure to fertilizers.
  6. The top layer of earth, extracted during digging, is laid out on the bottom of the pit. Then set the seedling, straightening all the roots, and tie it to a peg for strength.
  7. They fill the hole with fertile soil, tamp it.
  8. Make a hole for watering the seedling.
  9. Sprinkle with water (1-2 buckets).

Additional information: if the space near and around the cherries is covered with sawdust and / or dry soil with peat, this will save the growth of weeds around the tree and help retain moisture.

Cherry Black large: variety description

Cherry Black large: photo of the variety

  • Cherry tree Black is large, medium-sized, reaches from three to four meters, crown in the form of a trapezoid, dense. The bark is grayish, dark, slightly rough, without cracks. The branches are tall, strong, slightly wide, grow straight, there are large internodes.
  • The color of the bark of the cherry tree is Black large on young branches, greenish, over time it changes to a dirty brown color, with a layer of grayish bloom. Lentils are smooth, hairiness is not observed, light brown color, the location is rare.
  • The buds are large, ovoid, the crown is elongated, growing at an angle from the branch.
  • The leaves are large, elongated, ovoid, the crown is angular, rich green color, shiny, there is a small ribbing at the edges, there are no stipules. Cuttings are strong, wide, tall, smooth.
  • The buds are large enough, the inflorescence can be of two or three flowers. The petals are large, snow-white, at the end of the inflorescence become darker.
  • Cherries are large, large enough, weighing from five to seven grams, circle-shaped, slightly crushed. The fruits do not fall off. The skin is thin, almost black in color. The contents inside are tender, juicy, wine-colored, to the taste of cherries Black large - sweet with a sour taste, often used in the design of cakes and pastries. The stone is medium in size and can be easily separated from the fruit.

The best varieties

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Breeders have bred varieties that have the maximum amount of useful components, endowed with increased resistance to adverse environmental conditions. Cherry varieties are excellent for the Moscow region and for central Russia, the central black earth region of the Kuban. Each of them has distinctive features.

  1. The summer resident belongs to the early varieties. The tree grows small in height (does not exceed 5 m), has a round massive crown. The beginning of the offering falls on 3-4 years after the precipitation. The fruits are large, the weight of one berry can reach 7 g. In order for the ovary to appear, it is recommended to plant pollinators near the seedling.
  2. Household yellow - an ultra-early variety. The tree reaches a height of 5-6 m, forms large white inflorescences. The berries are large, each when ripe can weigh up to 7 g. The seedlings are capable of self-pollination. Therefore, there is no need to plant pollinator trees next to them.
  3. Drogana yellow ripens late. It has an increased immunity to diseases and infections. The fruits are large (when ripe they reach 9 g), light yellow, can have a creamy shade with a red barrel, juicy, tasty. Drogana gives a rich harvest.
  4. Amber belongs to the late varieties. The fruits are large, juicy, sweet and sour. They have a golden hue. The tree is not capable of pollinating on its own. Pollinators should be located nearby (varieties Immut, Ivstuzhenka, Severnaya).
  5. Franz Joseph is a massive tree, endowed with a wide dense crown. The berries are large (up to 9 g), light yellow with a pink tint on the sides. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste, juicy. The variety belongs to early ones, has good immunity, high yield, ideal for transportation.
  6. Bigarro yellow refers to the late ripening. Possesses good taste characteristics. The berries are endowed with a thin skin, so they do not tolerate transportation well. Not suitable for long-term storage.
  7. General's cherry - yellow large-fruited (the weight of one berry reaches 10-12 g), the fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is resistant to extreme weather conditions (tolerates frost and drought), is endowed with immunity against diseases. The first crop grows and ripens in the third year after planting the trees.
  8. Appetizing - with large yellow fruits, grows quickly, forms a dense crown. Begins to bear fruit in the third year after disembarkation. The variety is high-yielding, resistant to adverse weather conditions, diseases and pests. The berries are juicy and sweet. Ripen in the second decade of July.
  9. Aelita - medium-sized, has a dense spherical crown. Fruits are flat-round, large (up to 7-8 g). The color of the berries is yellow with a uniform blush. The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet. Refers to medium late, high yield. Resistant to coccomycosis, tolerates frost well.
  10. Leningrad yellow refers to late, berries ripen at the end of summer, can be stored for two weeks after harvest. Sweet cherries are hardy and immune to disease. The fruits are large (from 3.5 g.), Juicy, sweet. The color is amber-golden.
  11. Chicken with large fruits (berries weigh from 8 to 11 g), fruits are sweet, juicy, ripen in mid-July. This variety has good resistance to low temperatures and is currently being tested.
  12. Yolk - belongs to the early varieties (blooms in April, ripens in early summer). The fruits are juicy, sweet, and have a pleasant aroma. Differs in high productivity, can self-pollinate. Resistant to infections and pests.

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Note: Among the disadvantages of the variety are poor frost resistance, low tolerance to drought. In order for a tree to grow and bear fruit well, it should be pruned frequently.

Characteristics and features of the Black Prince variety

One of the best cold-resistant varieties is the Black Prince cherry, and the description of the variety consists of almost the same advantages.

  • This variety is popular in temperate climates. The Black Prince has a very high frost resistance. Saplings and mature trees can safely survive frosts below -30 degrees. Some branches freeze, but this will not affect the plant itself.
  • This cherry variety will always bring a large harvest of berries (from 20 kg or more per tree). The berries themselves are very large, black and burgundy, weighing 5-9 grams each. The taste of berries is aromatic, juicy, reminiscent of the taste of a plum. The berry begins to ripen from the first days of June and continues until the end of July.
  • The indisputable advantage of the Black Prince is its high resistance to pests and diseases.
  • Berries of this variety are very healthy. The juicy pulp contains many vitamins A, C and group B, trace elements. Iodine, iron, potassium, as well as malic, citric and lactic acids make cherries very valuable. Thanks to this composition, berries lower harmful cholesterol, help stimulate heart and brain activity, strengthen the walls of blood vessels, and lower blood pressure. The black prince will cope with insomnia, irritability and headaches.
  • Sweet cherries can be consumed both raw and processed. The fruits are well stored and do not spoil for a long time. They can be frozen and dried for the winter. Cherry jams, preserves, fruit drinks have excellent taste. Pies, puffs, dumplings with this berry - just lick your fingers!
  • The cherry tree is small in size, grows up to 3.5 meters, the crown is medium spreading, it grows very quickly. The high foliage of the crown, the leaves of the tree have a wedge-shaped shape of a rich green color.
  • During flowering, the plant is covered with beautiful white flowers (in the form of umbrellas), with good pollination, an excellent harvest can be expected.
  • The Black Prince will bear fruit for the third year.

Appearance of the variety

When and how to plant correctly

Depending on the climatic zone, planting of seedlings is carried out in different ways: in areas with a warm climate, planting in the ground can be done in the fall, ten days before the start of frost; in the northern regions of Russia, planting should be done in early spring before the buds swell.

When planting cherries, the Black Prince has some features regarding this particular species.

It is advisable for a gardener to consider the following:

  • these trees like small slopes on the southern and southeastern sides;
  • this area must be protected from the wind and well lit;
  • the plant does not like lowlands, where water can accumulate and stagnate in the spring;
  • it is not desirable that underground waters pass near the tree, since its root system is large up to two meters;
  • for planting the Black Prince, it is advisable to choose a nutrient soil where sandy loam soils and loams are present;

Full tree Black Prince

It is better to buy seedlings in special containers with a closed root system, during transportation, the young tree will not be injured and dehydrated, it will take root better during transplantation.

Advantages and disadvantages

Summing up, we can highlight the main advantages of the Black Prince cherry:

  • the variety stands out among others in that it is possible to harvest in three years, while for other varieties this period comes in 5-7 years;
  • disease and pest resistance;
  • the tree overwinters well even at low temperatures;
  • wonderful taste and useful properties;
  • many options in the preparation of various dishes and canning;
  • large yields.

There are few disadvantages of this species:

  • in the spring, after severe frosts, frostbite branches can be found, but it is enough to cut them off, this does not harm the plant itself;
  • pollinating trees are required;
  • high price for seedlings of this type.

Unique taste, large berry sizes, fruit strength (which is very important during transportation and storage), large yields - all these advantages, and there are more of them than disadvantages, make this variety a real Black Prince! You should definitely buy it and plant it in your garden.

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Black petunia: varieties

Photo of black petunias

Petunia Black Cherry F1, as the name suggests, has a dense dark cherry color, close to black. As in the case of "Black Velvet", this variety is characterized by abundant flowering of branched bushes. F1 Black Cherry is resistant to adverse weather conditions such as strong winds or heavy rain. Having experienced the impact of bad weather, it does not lose its attractive appearance, since it can recover in a short time. At the same time, petunia of this variety is considered a light-loving plant that tolerates dry periods well. You can start landing "Black Cherry F1" at the end of winter, in the last days of February. The period favorable for this procedure lasts until April.

Another "cherry" variety of black petunia is "Debonair Black Cherry". Black flowers with a reddish tint densely dot the spherical bush, which is characterized by high growth rates. This variety is very sensitive to watering, therefore, the primary task of the gardener is to monitor the condition of the upper layers of the soil in order to prevent it from drying out in time. Black petunia is responsive to mineral fertilizing, which promotes abundant flowering. The favorable period for planting this variety falls on the end of winter and the beginning of spring.

The variety of ampelous black petunias "Sweetunia Black Satin" is distinguished by its compact bushes, blooming with black flowers with silky petals. Distinctive features of the variety are fast growth rates, as well as the ability to reproduce by cuttings and seed.

Another weather-resistant variety is Crazytunia Black Mamba. Its dense compact spherical bushes feel great on balconies and loggias, as they are resistant to sunlight, without losing their decorative qualities. "Black Mamba" blooms quite early and several times during the season forms a large number of flowers of a coal-black shade. This variety propagates only in a vegetative way, since the fruits contain very few seeds. In addition, the seed, as a rule, does not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant.

Often, the variety of petunias Black Eyes is mistakenly referred to as black petunias, which is explained by its name. In reality, these early flowering petunias are white or pink in various shades with one characteristic feature - their throat is painted in a dark burgundy color, close to black. The veins covering the petals of flowers with a net have the same shade.

Care

At the beginning of May, trees that are more than 4 years old are given mineral fertilizing from urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 12-20 grams each. everyone. At the end of July, after harvesting, foliar dressing of phosphorus and potassium is desirable. In August, organic fertilizers will be good.

Proper moistening of the soil is very important for this crop and it must be carried out three times per season:

  • before flowering at least 20 liters;
  • in the middle of summer;
  • after harvest.

In the first years after planting, the seedlings need careful maintenance. It is very good to introduce nitrogen fertilization into the soil. Dry weather is not desirable for the Black Prince; additional watering is required. In autumn, cherries need water-charging irrigation so that the water passes to a depth of 70 cm. Winter hardiness will increase from this.

Important! When watering, you can also add additional fertilizing.Before the first wintering, young seedlings are protected from frost - they are insulated with branches of spruce branches, and dry foliage and moss are poured around

From rodents, protection from cut plastic bottles is suitable

Before the first wintering, young seedlings are protected from frost - they are insulated with spruce branches, and dry foliage and moss are poured around. From rodents, protection from cut plastic bottles is suitable.

Pruning

It is advisable to prune young trees when they reach a height of 60-80 cm. The main lower branch is cut by 45-60 cm. The remaining branches are shortened according to the level of its pruning.

General principles of pruning fruit trees

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