Flower garden
Ornamental flowers are not eaten, therefore, feeding flowers for abundant flowering is not so critical to the dosage of nitrogen and phosphorus. The main thing here is not to burn the plants, not to spoil the soil and not to disfigure the flowers with an excess of nutrients. Feeding flowers for flowering is usually inextricably tied to the general procedure for caring for them and, individually, is meaningless. Exceptions are rare; Let's look at examples of crops that are especially responsive to feeding to flowering or that certainly require it.
Petunias ...
These flowers are able to grow, as you know, anywhere. But all the splendor of varietal petunias is manifested only with the right feeding for flowering. By the way, to the south of approx. In Stavropol and on the South Coast of the Crimea, petunia can sometimes be grown by a tree (on the right in the figure); more and more new varieties can be grafted onto the stem. In this case, it is better to take a distant relative of petunia - brugmasia as a stock, see fig. right below. Its powerful roots are capable of feeding a large collection of petunias on a single trunk. But to the point.
Feeding petunias for lush, early and long flowering is possible with one of the traces. ways:
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On an ordinary flower bed and other calcium-depleted soil (see above) - with Zircon and Epin preparations according to the instructions.
- On poor, but balanced soils - complex fertilizers Bud, Kristalon (pink or brown), Planton-S, Scotts, also according to the instructions.
- On enough nutritious soils - enough yeast feeding, like for strawberries, at the beginning of budding. To accelerate flowering, in 1-2 weeks after planting, apply Zircon or Epin in a half dose.
…other
An example of the opposite kind is hyacinth. Hyacinths must be fed three times during their short growing season:
- After the emergence of sprouts, a mixture of granular urea and nitrophoska 1: 1 by volume is scattered at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. for 1 sq. m.
- At the beginning of budding - in every 10 liters of irrigation water, dilute 1 tsp. urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate or a ready-made mixture of Agricola-7.
- At the end of flowering, for the same every 10 liters of irrigation water, 1 tbsp is given. l. superphosphate, potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate. Watering plentiful, 5 liters per 1 sq. m.
Delphinium is not an ephemeroid, but to the next. year, he needs to lay the buds of renewal, therefore, feeding delphiniums is also 3-stage, but completely different:
- After the appearance of 2-3 leaves - a solution of mullein 1:10 (see above), 0.25-0.3 liters per plant.
- The flower arrow has gone - give any complete complex mineral fertilizer with trace elements according to the instructions.
- After flowering - no nitrogen! Give phosphorus and potassium at a rate of 50 g / sq. m of active one and the other.
Rosary in Japan
Irises are given NPK in a ratio of active substances 3: 2: 2.5 at the beginning of the growing season, 1: 2: 3 during the budding period and PK (no nitrogen!) 2: 3 after 3 weeks (!) After flowering, at this time they have new roots grow. Small-bulbous ones are fed for flowering even in the snow with carbamide. Clematis are fed with NPK evenly, 2-3 times a season, but the spring shedding of the soil with milk of lime is much more important for them.
In general, there is no single recipe or similar recipes for feeding for abundant flowering of decorative flowers. And for a successful culture of the queen of flowers - roses - top dressing during the budding period can be of decisive importance, see for example. video clip:
Top dressing in different periods of the growing season
Against the background of a lack of nutrients, the daylily may begin to show symptoms of chlorosis. This type of flowering crops respond well to feeding, but they need to be applied in a strictly limited period of time.
Sample schedule:
- Spring - for rapid growth and development, the plant needs a high concentration of nitrogen. This element is an integral part of chlorophyll, nucleic acids and proteins.
- During budding, for abundant and prolonged flowering of the plant, phosphorus-potassium compounds with a low nitrogen content are needed. Thanks to such complexes, the root system is actively developing and deepening into the soil mass.
- The end of August and the beginning to mid-September are the right time for feeding with phosphorus-potassium compounds, nitrogen must be completely excluded. This period is characterized by the preparation of the plant for the upcoming wintering.
Important! You need to know how often to water the daylilies. For long-term and abundant flowering, infrequent but abundant watering is required.
Spring feeding scheme
Spring is an amazing time, at this time in the garden and in the country everything begins to actively awaken. The exact timing of the introduction of mineral and / or organic complexes cannot be named. This is due to different weather and climatic conditions in different regions.
A good time may be in April or May, in regions with a harsh climate, even June-July. It is recommended in this matter to focus on the growth phases of the plant. Experienced gardeners manage to analyze the condition of the plant and soil "by eye" and adjust the schedule.
Feeding schemes
The composition of spring feeding should include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus for the following purposes:
- stimulation of resistance to adverse environmental factors, diseases and pest attacks;
- increasing the growth of the root system.
The feeding scheme looks like this:
- Soon after the snow melts and the soil warms up a little, a small amount of nitroammophos is added to its composition. It is allowed to "dig in" granules into the earth.
- When the plant reaches a height of 10-15 cm, a phase of intensive plant growth begins and the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers must be increased. Gardeners predominantly use calcium nitrate and urea.
Note! If you overdo it with nitrogen-containing compounds, then daylilies will grow actively, but not bloom.
How to fertilize daylily in summer
It is recommended to start fertilizing in summer after flowering, when the flowers will be in a dormant phase. This period is characterized by the formation and development of stolons, and new shoots are laid for the next growing season.
It is best to use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers during this period. They increase endurance and frost resistance. It is strongly not recommended to use fresh manure as fertilizer, as it contains a high concentration of manure, as well as a large number of pathogenic microorganisms that can cause damage.
How to feed lilies
Flowers are fed with inorganic fertilizers. The first feeding is done in early May after the emergence of the bulbs. Plants need nitrogen to grow well. Complex fertilizers are applied in liquid form. The next two dressings are carried out in the middle and at the end of the month.
Flowers in the garden
Feeding lilies throughout the year - recommendations for beginners
Before flowering, lilies need potassium magnesium. She will make the flowers in the garden more vibrant and lush. Liquid feeding is carried out after watering the plants.
Important! When growing lilies using seedlings, feeding is also carried out at different stages of development. House lilies also like additional feeding, which is introduced from the period of stem formation.
House lilies also like additional feeding, which is introduced from the period of stem formation.
Application technology and composition
Feeding lilies requires some knowledge. The appearance of the plants will depend on whether the fertilizers were applied correctly.
Fertilizers are applied very carefully so as not to damage the bulbs. The soil is loosened from above. Digging is carried out to a depth of 35-40 cm.
As a top dressing they use:
- organic fertilizers;
- nitrogen fertilizers;
- ash.
From organic fertilizers used mullein, diluted with water 1 to 10. The most popular nitrogen fertilizer is ammonium nitrate. One tablespoon of the product is sprayed on 1 sq. meter. Ash improves soil composition and repels pests.
Top dressing
Spring feeding for lush bloom
Plants will be more robust if nitrogenous fertilizers are applied before flowering in spring. The soil temperature must be 6 ° C or higher, otherwise the fertilizing will not be absorbed by the plants. Use urea or ammonium nitrate. 2 tablespoons of dry granules are consumed per 1 square meter. If the beds are tilted, it is better to use liquid top dressing, as the nutrients will be washed out during watering or rain. 10 liters of fertilizer are consumed per 1 square meter.
When buds appear, plants need phosphorus. Foliar top dressing is carried out.
Note! In the spring, it is necessary to treat the plants with Bordeaux liquid. It will be good prevention and protection against various diseases.
Summer feeding
In summer, plants also need to be fertilized, but with a lower concentration of nutrients. Top dressing is carried out in July with fertilizers diluted in water. For this purpose, superphosphate or potassium magnesium is suitable. Fertilizers are diluted in slightly warmed water. The liquid strengthens the stem, promotes bright flowering of plants.
It is better to use ash from organic matter. It is sprayed onto the flower bed on the ground so as not to touch the leaves. Plants should be watered.
Autumn feeding
In autumn, the plants fade, but they also need fertilization in order to restore, strengthen the bulbs. Potassium and phosphorus are added during this period. Fertilizers will protect plants from fungus and other diseases. Watering of plants is reduced. Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is also reduced, since they can provoke growth.
Organic fertilizers will help plants survive the long winter:
- humus;
- compost;
- rotted manure.
Note! The flowerbed is covered with a mulch layer of 10 cm.Thus, the bulbs supply food and protect from the cold
Spring-summer feeding schedule
In the spring, after the snow melts and with the onset of warmth, garden plants enter an active growth phase. For the proper development of the plant, it is required to enrich the soil with trace elements useful and necessary for the flower. The first feeding of lilies in spring is done when the shoots reach about 10 cm in height. This will allow:
- gain strength to plants,
- accumulate the necessary substances for the formation of peduncles
- and form a green mass.
Novice amateur flower growers often ask the question: "How to feed lilies in the spring to improve growth, flowering and increase disease resistance?" Spring feeding is reduced to the introduction of the following mineral fertilizers:
Nitrogen fertilizers. These include the well-known ammonium nitrate and urea.
Nitrogen is the first essential element for fast shoot growth and rich green leaf color. In order not to harm the plant, these substances must be introduced strictly dosed, according to the instructions
An excess of fertilizer leads to burns in the plant, which can provoke the complete death of the flower. For feeding lilies, it is recommended to use 30 grams of nitrate or urea per 1 square meter. Nitrogen fertilizers can be applied in two ways:
Dissolve in water, following the instructions on the package, and then water the plant.
Spread the granules around the bush and embed in the soil.
Phosphate fertilizers. Experienced gardeners use superphosphate to care for their lilies. It is a fairly fast-acting agent for increasing the stress and frost resistance of plants, for their better growth and flowering. Works great both in composition with other fertilizers, and independently. Granules are rather difficult to dissolve in water, therefore it is better to apply dry, spreading around the plant.
Potassium salts. Potash fertilizers help to increase the resistance of plants to various pests and diseases, improve varietal qualities. The most common is potassium sulfate, or as it is also called, potassium sulfate. It is brought in in the spring and only in open ground. Another popular potash fertilizer among gardeners is potassium magnesium.It has a great effect on the root system, allowing flowers to endure transplant stress in a short time.
It is possible to use only one mineral fertilizer containing in its composition all the necessary elements for lilies at once. This nitroammophoska is a universal complex fertilizer. It is a white-pink granules that dissolve easily in water. For flower, ornamental crops, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is chosen. The use of nitroammophoska allows several times to reduce the risk of plant diseases.
From organic fertilizers, infusion of mullein is welcome. Moreover, the use of fresh manure and chicken droppings is categorically unacceptable. Neglect of such advice will lead to the death of the plant - it will simply "burn", the bulbs will quickly rot. The infusion is prepared as follows: for 1 part of manure, 5 parts of water are taken. This "vitamin mixture" is infused for 2 weeks, after which a liter of infused mullein is diluted in a bucket of water to prepare the working solution. You can feed mullein infusion once every two weeks, not more often.
The second spring feeding of lilies is carried out during the period of bud formation. Wood ash is brought in again, for the entire spring-summer period it is used about 4-5 times. This fertilizer is considered one of the most beloved daylilies. Ash is brought in at the rate of 100 grams per 1 square meter. This dressing stimulates the growth of new shoots, the formation of buds, and is responsible for the green coloration of stems and leaves.
When planting, dry ash is used, adding it to the soil. Subsequently, ash water is prepared - 1 glass of ash per bucket of water and the flowers are watered with this solution. In August, they stop feeding the lilies with the help of wood ash, so that the plant begins to prepare for the dormant period. Such care will preserve the plant for many years.
After flowering has ended, it is necessary to re-fertilize with mineral fertilizers. This is done so that beneficial substances accumulate in the bulbs, allowing the plant to survive the winter cold until next spring. The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers will be appropriate here. Double feeding will significantly increase the winter hardiness of the flower bulbs. Superphosphate and potassium magnesium are taken in 2 tbsp. spoons and diluted in ten liters of water. It is desirable that the water be warm, since phosphate fertilizers are hardly soluble, and high temperatures can speed up the process of preparing the top dressing.
Top dressing of annual and perennial flowers
All annual plants (asters, levkoi, carnations, etc.) are very responsive to feeding. So, the best decorative effect when growing levkoe is obtained when three times a day feeding with full mineral fertilizers.
Asters prefer the first feeding with nitrogen fertilizer, the second with full mineral fertilization and the third with phosphorus-potassium fertilization.
Carnation is a crop demanding nitrogen throughout the growing season; if phosphorus-potassium fertilizers were applied before planting, then only nitrogen can be given in top dressing.
When applying fertilizers, it is necessary to check the level of acidity of the soil, since the acidic reaction of the soil environment significantly reduces and even neutralizes the effect of mineral fertilizers.
Top dressing of perennial rhizome and corms (gladioli, phlox, peonies, delphiniums) is a necessary condition for their successful growth and high decorative qualities. The best development of these crops is achieved with 2-fold feeding them during the growing season.
The first nitrogen fertilization is carried out when sprouts appear, the second - with full mineral fertilizer at the beginning of budding, the third - with full mineral fertilizer in the flowering phase, the fourth - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer at the end of flowering.
The dose of fertilizers in top dressing for rhizome perennials depends on the age of the plants: in the first 2 years of life, no more than 40 g / m2 is applied; for older plants, 60 g / m2 of nutrients are used in each dressing.
It is especially important to feed dahlias, since modern varieties have a powerful aerial part and an underdeveloped root system. It is effective to carry out weekly fertilizing at the beginning of the growing season with nitrogen fertilization, then with complete mineral fertilization (at the rate of 10-15 g / m2), alternating them with fertilizing with liquid manure
If fertilizers were applied to the soil before planting, then 2 dressings are enough during the growing season: the first - with full mineral fertilization in the budding phase and the second - with the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at a dose of 90 g / m2 at the beginning of flowering.
When feeding, it is very important to observe the dosage, since an excessive concentration of fertilizers can lead to burns and death of plants. The correct nutritional system for flower plants will provide them with high decorative qualities.
Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring in rows or holes during sowing and planting, and then in the form of dressings directly under the plant in the first half of summer, when it is intensively growing. In the second half of summer, the nitrogen demand of plants decreases. Moreover, for perennial plants, an excess of nitrogen is harmful, since it slows down their growth and they do not have time to prepare for winter.
Phosphate fertilizers are applied for crops with a short growing season, usually in autumn or spring. Only crops with a long growing season are fed: roses, clematis, lilies, other wintering perennials, as well as long-flowering annuals.
Potassium is best applied in spring (except for fertilizers containing chlorine). Perennial flower crops wintering in the ground are fed in August-September.
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Top dressing of perennial vines
There is a wide variety of perennial flowering vines. Most often, clematis, wisteria, honeysuckle, kampsis, climbing roses and others are planted in the middle lane.
The best perennial climbing plants for a gazebo and garden (21 photos)
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Perennial vines, depending on the species, both need additional feeding, and several seasons can do without them.
Clematis
This vine is one of the most popular in summer cottages. Due to the abundant flowering and rapid growth of green mass, the plant especially needs nutrients. Clematis with large flowers are fed at least twice a month, and with small ones - 2-3 times per season.
In July, you should feed the liana with potassium sulfate (25-30 g per bucket of water). For lush flowering, boric acid feeding will help. To do this, you need to prepare the following solution: add potassium permanganate at the tip of a knife to a glass of hot water with 2 g of boric acid, mix everything thoroughly. This mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and clematis is poured over it at the rate of 5-6 liters per vine. You can use this top dressing no more than once a month.
Wisteria
Of the variety of wisterias, whose delicate leaves and beautiful flowers are loved by many gardeners in the world, in our climate only the macrostachia species is suitable for growing. Its vines, which grow up to 18 m in length, mask unsightly fences well. For such an abundance of green and flowering vegetation, appropriate feeding is also needed. Therefore, once every two weeks, complex mineral fertilizers or organic matter are applied under the bush (0.5 liters of mullein solution per bucket of water). Fertilizers must be alternated.
Bougainvillea
In the southern regions of the country, it wonderfully decorates the fence with its small flowers in bright bougainvillea bracts. It is resistant to diseases and pests and is therefore desirable in many areas. Like other vines, the presence of nitrogen in the soil affects the lush flowering: the more there is, the fewer flowers.Therefore, fertilizing bougainvillea with complex mineral fertilizers, you need to watch that they do not contain this substance.
An excess of nutrients in bougainvillea leads to inhibition of flowering.
Honeysuckle honeysuckle
Fragrant honeysuckle, or, as they also call, honeysuckle, honeysuckle, is very popular among landscape designers. She tolerates winter frosts well and is unpretentious in care. Needs rare fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium, as well as rotted manure.
Climbing roses
And what garden can do without roses? Climbing roses are a constant leader in decorating gazebos, pergolas and arches. At the end of July, they have a second wave of flowering. Therefore, the plant must be fed with a solution of superphosphate (25 g per bucket of water) and potassium sulfate (20 g per bucket of water) or complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen.
Roses in July: what can and should be done with the "queen of flowers" in the middle of summer
Algorithm of July watering, dressing, pruning and processing of the rose garden.
Campsis
The thermophilic tubular campsis is ideal for vertical landscaping. The plant does not need additional fertilizing for several years, if a sufficient amount of them was introduced during planting (5 kg of compost and 500 g of complete mineral fertilizer). Fertilizers containing phosphorus and nitrogen will help maintain lush flowering throughout the season.
Now you know how you can feed flowering vines in July so that they delight with their beauty and aroma until the first frost.
Homemade products
In addition to store drugs, you can use your own prepared ones. In this case, you can achieve a greater effect, but in a delayed perspective.
Home dressing for plants
Here's a great recipe that is particularly effective:
- crushed green leaves of any plant are placed in a container, filling it by about 70%;
- the remaining volume is taken up with water. You can also add 1 tablespoon of carbamide to the container;
- then left to ferment. It is advisable to choose a sunny place and leave the mixture for 10-12 days. It needs to be mixed periodically.
Then take a liter of tincture and dilute it in 10 liters of water. Watering daylilies with the resulting product, but how often, can be determined only by soil moisture and dryness of the season.
Thus, if you provide proper care and feeding of the plant, then the daylily will decorate any garden and will delight its owners.
First application of the season
After wintering, top dressing is applied for the first time in the spring. Upon awakening, the plant mobilizes all the body's reserves for forcing greenery and the formation of flower buds. Uses lily as nutrients from the bulb as well as external feeding. But since there are already few own reserves left after the cold winter, it is difficult to overestimate the importance of the first spring feeding.
Timing
Experienced flower growers recommend applying fertilizers in the spring no earlier than a stable temperature outside is established in the range of + 6-8 degrees. It is clear that in different regions of our huge country this period falls on different times: where in March, in most cases in April, but in the northern regions only in May.
Focus on the height of the stem: when it reaches 10 cm, it's time to make the first top dressing. Previously, it is undesirable to feed, since the onion cannot yet fully absorb all the substances.
Nutritional features of gladioli
The most demanding gladioli for nitrogen and potassium. They need relatively less phosphorus. Therefore, the ratio of essential nutrients (N: P: K) for their normal growth should be 1: 0.6: 1.8. This ratio refers to total consumption. At different stages of development, the assimilation of individual nutrients by plants changes. For example, at the beginning of the growing season of gladioli, nitrogen is needed one and a half times more than potassium, and five to ten times more than phosphorus.
Nitrogen is better consumed by gladioli plants in the presence of phosphorus and potassium compounds. The greatest consumption of this element by plants is observed during the development of one to four leaves in gladioli. Excess nitrogen leads to a delay in flowering and a deterioration in the quality of the upper flowers, a curvature of the peduncle and a decrease in the plant's resistance to diseases. At the same time, a powerful growth of the stem and leaves is noted, in which case they say that the plant "fattens".
With a lack of nitrogen, the growth of gladioli is delayed, flowering is weakened. The latter is expressed, in particular, in a decrease in the number of flowers in the inflorescence. In addition, the color of the leaves is light green.
In those cases when, at the initial stage of plant development, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in top dressing, the growth does not die out for a long time. This can lead to poor maturation of gladioli corms. So that the growth processes after flowering do not continue, but gradually fade away, at such a time it is better to give fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers together with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. With abundant nitrogen nutrition, the size of the corms of gladioli may exceed the usual ones, but in terms of their internal structure they are worse, they age faster, and the plants from them grow poorly.
If adult corms of gladioli are grown (two years old and older), then in the initial period of development it is not necessary to feed with phosphorus fertilizers - the planting material and soil provide all the needs of the plant. Gladioli are very demanding on potassium nutrition, therefore, plants from adult corms in the initial period of development are fed with nitrogen and potassium. For a child who does not have such reserves of nutrients, it is better to give a complete fertilizer, that is, containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Potassium should be included in the diet of gladioli during the entire growing season, as it participates in compounds that ensure the movement of plant juices. This element makes the plant more resistant to bad weather and diseases. If there is not enough potassium, then the old leaves of gladioli give it to the young, and they themselves dry up and die off. First, the edges of the leaves dry out. At the same time, the peduncle grows weakly, it can be shortened.
If during the formation of three to four leaves, when the peduncle of gladioli is formed, do not give enough potassium for top dressing, the number of buds in the peduncle decreases. However, the greatest consumption of potassium, as well as nitrogen and phosphorus, in gladioli is observed during budding. Moreover, if for phosphorus this increase is small, then the increase in the consumption of potassium and nitrogen occurs very sharply with a further not so sharp decline.
The lack of potassium after flowering gladioli affects the quality of corms, which are poorly stored and give poorly developing plants the next year.
The need for phosphorus almost does not change during the growing season, only slightly increasing during budding and flowering. Lack of phosphorus inhibits growth and flowering. After flowering, joint feeding of gladiolus plants with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers contribute to a better outflow of nutrients from the leaves into the new corm.
It is possible to provide gladioli with nutrients in the required amount only by supplementing soil compounds with mineral and organic fertilizers.
On packages of mineral fertilizers purchased in specialized stores, indicate the amount of nutrients included in them in percent, usually by the active ingredient: nitrogen - N, phosphorus oxide - P205, potassium oxide - K20.
Gladiolus. Kingsbrae garden
Fertilizer dosage - underfeeding is better than overfeeding
Plant nutrition is a complex science. Long-term cultivation experience shows that ornamental plants need more nitrogen at the beginning of growth, and potassium and phosphorus during budding and flowering. Overfeeding a plant, especially nitrogen, is more dangerous than underfeeding.With an excess of nitrogen, some plants bloom poorly, developing many leaves and shoots, and are more ill with fungal diseases. It is due to the fact that the plant gives all its strength to the formation of an abundant green mass, the growth of which is stimulated by nitrogen, that flowering is scarce. The average dose per 1 m2 is 50-60 g of phosphorus and potash fertilizers in the fall and 30-40 g of nitrogen fertilizers in the spring.
The main condition for the effective action of mineral fertilizers on the growth and development of flowering plants is their correct and rational use. It is necessary that the dose of fertilizers, as well as the types of fertilizers themselves, are selected taking into account the content of nutrients in the soils and the phase of plant development.
It is very effective to apply fertilizers as top dressing, especially liquid, at the beginning of growth and during budding. To avoid an excess of individual elements, it is better to use combined mineral fertilizers: nitroammophoska, nitrophoska, crystallin, etc. The average dose for the first feeding is 20-30 g of fertilizers per 10 liters of water.
If the fertilizer is concentrated, for example urea or potassium chloride, it is better to reduce the dose. In the second and subsequent feeding, the amount of fertilizer must be increased to 50 g per 10 liters of water.
For mineral dressings, you can use all ready-made mixtures. They are dissolved at the rate of 40 g per bucket of water.
If in early spring, feeding is given to enhance plant growth, then in the summer during the formation of buds - for their better flowering, at the end of summer - for better ripening of seeds and shoots of perennial crops.
How to fertilize lilies
Experienced gardeners know when to plant lilies in their garden beds. This is best done during the off-season. In the spring, transplanting lily bulbs into open ground is done as early as possible. In autumn, the most suitable months are September and October. Bulbs with a dying stem should be planted, that is, those that have completed the growing season.
Fertilizing lilies when planting
It is important to know how to plant lilies correctly. They do not like shady places and constantly wet, compacted soils.
They should not be planted under spreading trees in the shade. Depending on the variety, they choose sunny places or partial shade.
Plants grow and develop well if there is a sufficient amount of humus in the root area. For each square meter of planting, a bucket of well-rotted compost is introduced and dug up. You can add urea in the amount of 200 g per 10 sq. meters. In order for the plants to bloom well, 500 g of potassium sulfate 1 kg of superphosphate is scattered under the digging. An alternative can be complex fertilizers: diammofosk or azofosk.
Feeding lilies before flowering
During the appearance of the first buds, lilies need mineral fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. It is convenient to use complex formulations that are sold in specialized stores.
Note! If necessary, feeding lilies before flowering is prepared independently. In 10 liters, 1 tbsp is diluted
l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Fertilizers are applied by irrigation at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 sq. m.
Fertilization features at the budding stage
At the budding stage when applying fertilizers, you should mulch the soil well with sawdust or cut grass. These measures are necessary to avoid drying out the topsoil with strong evaporation. Abundant infrequent watering is required.
Lilies in buds
How to feed lilies in June during flowering
Gardeners should know how to feed lilies in June before flowering. The rich color of the petals will help give ammophosk. It also helps plants to resist stress, disease and pests.
Feeding flowering lilies is carried out in the same way as during budding.
Important! The fertilizer must contain nitrogen. It is one of the main nutrients
Its lack inhibits the growth of the plant.
Usually urea or nitrophosphate is used. Plants are watered at the root, water should not fall on the leaves.
Top dressing after cutting or flowering
In the autumn, plants are preparing for winter and proper feeding is especially important for them. At the end of summer, new fertilizers are applied. These can be complex preparations containing superphosphate and potassium sulfate. They will replenish the supply of nutrients and protect against disease. Nitrogen fertilizers cannot be applied.
You should focus on the climatic conditions of the lily growing zone. Mineral fertilizers should not be applied too late, otherwise green shoots may appear. You can use mature compost or manure-based humus. The soil will be replenished with useful substances and will receive additional shelter from frost. The compost layer is located on top and is about 10 cm. In the spring it is stirred by loosening.
These points must be known for beginners when growing phlox
Good time of the day, Friends!
Today I will tell you what I will do now with phloxes, in early spring at my dacha.
Everyone knows that phlox are perennial plants that do not need to be dug up for the winter and protected from frost. These are not whimsical plants, but you still need to do the minimum so that they delight us with their beauty.
What splendor phlox creates, I will not tell in this article, but straight to action.
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Of course, first of all, in the spring, I begin to clean the bushes from debris and old leaves with branches.
If phloxes have already crawled out of the ground, as in my case, then I try to do it more carefully.
And most importantly, there is no need to pull out old dry stems from phlox. Down there are buds from which new shoots grow
Shoots come out both from the ground and from the base of the old stem. Take a closer look at the photo, you can see there.
Spring work with phlox
Phlox forms buds of growth on the rhizome, at the very base of the stem, just above the point from which the main branching of the roots comes. And now in the spring a new shoot is growing from such a bud.
And it is also very important, in the place where the shoot departs from the old root and with further growth, young roots will form. And then a little higher again new kidneys
As a result, the rhizome rises every year and expands in breadth, as if crawling out of the ground.
For normal growth and abundant flowering, you need to add earth to the bush in the spring, as if pumping slightly. By doing this, we will fill up the young shoots and their roots.
Phlox - spring work for abundant flowering
Therefore, in the spring I weed the bushes and loosen the earth around them, while simultaneously shoveling the earth lightly into the middle of the bush.
It will be great if you still feed with fertilizers at this time.
I do not stretch the pleasure by changing the feeding, therefore, when loosening, I add a complex fertilizer with an equal content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.
Most often I use amofoska, where the content of elements is in a ratio of 16:16:16, I scatter about 15-20 g per well.
This is enough to feed my bushes during the season.
After that, I pour abundantly water into the holes, which I made when loosening and this is the end of the work with phlox.
If you are likely to get sick, then spray the Bordeaux liquid over the foliage in the evening and pour a little under the bush.
Perennial phloxes from my parents
Yes, and spring is a very good time to divide the phlox bush. The bushes grow very quickly, so you can simply separate part of the bush with a shovel and dig it out, then plant it in another place.
Thus, you will help the overgrown bush, as you will rejuvenate and thin the bush. and propagate this variety.
Are there phloxes in your garden? Do you agree that they are unpretentious perennials?
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