Reproduction
Did roses inspire, charm and subdue you? Then it's time to propagate your own bush by cutting cuttings from semi-lignified shoots. This solution is an easy way to get the maximum amount of planting material.
The procedure for cutting cuttings is standard: a semi-lignified shoot is selected, cut, cut into cuttings (with at least 1 bud and leaf) 5-7 cm long.After - wilting for 40-60 minutes, dusting with a root growth stimulator, planting in a nutritious substrate. A prerequisite is high humidity, created using plastic wrap (or a can, if you only have a couple of cuttings).
All secrets are open and there is hope that a full-fledged rose garden will soon appear on your site. And you can admire the roses, inhale their aroma and drink tea with rose petal jam
Diseases and pests
The more closely you monitor your roses, the sooner you will spot pests or recognize a disease - this will allow you to fight it more effectively.
Fungal diseases
The pathogens are parasitic fungi. Fungi live off the nutrients that the plant receives. Their distribution is facilitated by high humidity, excess heat, as well as nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Fungi multiply by airborne spores, so diseases spread quickly.
The most common rose diseases are black leaf spot, rust and powdery mildew.
Rust: The peculiarity of this disease is that the spores of the fungus that causes it, before getting on the rose, need an intermediate plant of another species, for example, a juniper. Do not plant roses near junipers.
Downy mildew: occurs when the summer is rainy. Mold appears on the underside of the leaf and turns into brownish or reddish spots. To prevent the spread of the disease, roses should be planted in a well-ventilated place, and the affected leaves should be destroyed.
Sooty bloom: The fungus that causes it settles on the sweet secretions that are left by the aphids. Colonies of the fungus cover the leaf with a sticky black coating. To combat aphids, roses are sprayed with a soap-alcohol solution.
Gray rot: Affects buds, flowers, leaves and shoots. After some time, a light gray bloom forms on them, as well as brown decaying areas, which lead to the death of the affected parts of the plant. The diseased plant is sprayed with a decoction of horsetail, the affected parts are cut off and destroyed.
Viral diseases: most viruses enter the plant through harmful insects or when pruning with insufficiently clean tools. With the defeat of viral diseases, flowering becomes less abundant, the growth and development of the plant slows down, the leaves brighten. To prevent these diseases, you should thoroughly disinfect tools, fight against insects that carry viruses; the affected plants are destroyed.
Hybrid tea rose in a flower garden. Snoogums
Rose pests
Insects: As a larva or caterpillar, they eat leaves, young shoots, roots or buds. Adult insects suck the juice out of them and can serve as carriers of viral diseases.
The most common pests are aphids, scale insects, leafworms, rose sawfly, thrips and rose cicadas.
- Leafworm: Small butterflies lay their testicles on branches, where they remain throughout the winter. In the spring, brown caterpillars appear, up to 15 mm long.They eat leaves and buds, and then entangle the leaves with cobwebs and pupate inside the cocoon. Cobwebs and curled leaves are removed and destroyed. In case of severe damage, insecticides are used.
- Moth caterpillars: Green caterpillars eat leaves, buds and young shoots. The affected areas are cut off and destroyed.
- Chopped hazel-cutters: they lay their eggs primarily on the shoots of wild roses. In this case, greenish-reddish, spherical growths are formed, from which whitish larvae then emerge. Affected shoots gradually die off. If growths are found, shoots should be cut and destroyed.
- Spider mites: These animals do not belong to the category of insects, but are tiny arthropods. The red spider mite is especially dangerous. It sucks the sap out of the plant so that it turns yellow and dies. It brings the greatest harm in hot dry summers
- Pests that cause damage to the roots - nematodes - colorless transparent worms 0.5-2 mm long, parasitize on the roots of plants. They cause disturbances in plant growth and the formation of thickenings on the roots. The affected plant is removed, in its place, for example, calendula is planted for several years, which contributes to the disappearance of nematodes.
Landing features
To get a beautiful rose bush, it must be planted according to all the rules. Reproduction of this plant often occurs by grafting, but there are also varieties that propagate by cuttings.
Roses should be planted in the first days of May. A slightly acidic and rather loose earth is best suited for this. Choose a place where there is a lot of sunlight and there is reliable protection from the wind. All soil must be removed from the root system of the seedlings. Before proceeding to direct planting, the seedlings must be placed in plain water. They must stay there for at least a couple of hours, during which time the flowers can be saturated with water. It will be very good if you manage to submerge the whole plant in the water. If this cannot be done, then try so that all the roots and, of course, the graft, if any, are immersed in the liquid (it is located between the root and stem and looks like not too much thickening).
Prepare landing pits. Here it should be borne in mind that their size should be approximately 30 to 50 centimeters. The distance between the bushes is at least 30-50 centimeters. In one place, as a rule, no more than 8 bushes are planted. Before planting roses, they should be soaked in a special manure mixture. It is prepared quite simply, namely, manure, water and clay are mixed in a 1: 1: 2 ratio. After planting a seedling around it, it is imperative to make a roller out of the ground. This is necessary so that during irrigation water is retained in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe roots. At the end, the bush must be earthed (hilling height is not less than 15 centimeters).
Winter-hardy varieties of climbing roses
Due to the peculiarities of the climate in the middle latitudes, winter-hardy representatives of this group have gained popularity, which is understandable.
Roses from this group are able to withstand winter temperature drops of up to -30 degrees. Not all representatives have the ability to re-bloom in one year. Most often, they are able to bloom once, and the flowering time does not exceed 30-40 days.
Of the winter-hardy, the most popular varieties:
Haendel
It is a lush blooming variety with flowers up to 10 centimeters in diameter.
Hendel belongs to the winter-hardy varieties. It is used as a decoration for various walls and supports from one and a half to three meters high. The flowers are double-colored. The petal itself is snow-white, and the edging along the edge is bright pink. Flowering is accompanied by a delicate fruit aroma. Scourges grow up to three meters in length.
During the growing season, flowering is observed twice - in late spring and early autumn. Although the second wave of flowering is not so abundant.
Rosarium Utersen
This hardy and unpretentious rose bush is very popular with Russian gardeners. The bushes are tall, well-branched, with dense dark green foliage and lush buds of strong double flowers, reaching 12 centimeters. Moreover, in one bud, there are up to one hundred leaves.
The color on the bush can vary from light pink to bright crimson tones.
Uthersen is called a nostalgic look. Because the lush buds, opening up, look like dresses worn in the Victorian era.
The aroma is thick and rich, filling the garden with sweetness.
It blooms very profusely, until the first cold weather. The variety is able to survive without damage and heavy rains and winds.
In frosty winters, good shelter is needed.
New Dawn
A very hardy representative of its kind, tall, decorated with massive buds. They are painted in a delicate pink color with a shade of crème brulee and have a pronounced aroma.
New Dawn do well in cold winters under cover. Bloom for two months, starting in June.
Harlequin
Harlequin is a particularly decorative variety from this group. In addition, the rose is highly frost-resistant.
Flowering lasts only one month, but during this time a huge number of lush, very decorative buds are formed. The color of the flowers is very attractive, two-tone. The middle is white, turning into a scarlet or apricot-pink color.
It is especially interesting that it is difficult to find equally colored buds, each of them is distinguished by its own unique shade.
Red Eden
The inflorescences of this beauty are especially splendid. It is a densely doubled variety with peony-shaped buds.
The undoubted advantage is the almost complete absence of thorns. It blooms in waves during the growing season. The flowers are bright, crimson red.
In the morning and afternoon hours, Red Eden is fragrant with the strongest aroma with a fruity tint. Closer to night, the aroma weakens.
White Sunrise
This winter-hardy variety is distinguished by its large buds with strikingly beautiful coloration.
The core is usually yellow, less often white. At the same time, the edges of the bud are of a bright, crimson color. The flowers are large, double, reaching 13 centimeters, with a huge number of petals.
Alchemist
If you want to decorate your garden in Victorian style - the charming "Alchemist" is the best choice.
This nostalgic variety is considered somewhat finicky, but with proper care, its lush, large-double buds of delicate golden shades will be a real decoration. A delightful scent will fill every corner of the garden.
Despite some capriciousness, the Alchemist calmly survives winter temperature drops of up to -30 degrees without shelter.
Schneevitchen
This rose is very good for decorating various objects with a height of more than two meters. Her long whips of light green color with shiny leaves are simply buried in snow-white buds.
The buds are not very large, semi-double, up to 9 centimeters, have the strongest sweet aroma.
This variety has excellent frost resistance.
Variety of species:
