Why does the lily turn yellow and dry

Leaf land

Leafy soil (leaf humus) is obtained from rotten leaves of trees and shrubs. It is prepared in the same way as traditional compost. The composter should be placed in a shaded and wind-protected place in the garden (wind and sun cause excessive drying of decomposed residues). It is necessary to knock down a square or rectangular box without a bottom from the boards, preferably on three walls, leave gaps between the boards - fresh air must have constant access to organic decomposing residues. At the bottom of the composter we place thick branches that will form a drainage layer and ensure adequate air circulation. Sprinkle the branches with peat or garden soil, you can add last year's compost. Then we alternately fill in the chopped leaves and sprinkle them with the next layer of peat. You can add humus, compost vaccine, a special activator or nitrogen in the form of urea (1.5 kg per m3) to the box. We cover everything with garden soil. If we don't have last year's compost and humus, we can only make leafy soil from leaves and garden soil. The compost bin should be watered from time to time to keep it moist. Dig up the sheet composter twice a year. Leafy land should be ready within 1 - 2 years.

The leafy ground contains a large amount of humus and is quite rich in nutrients. For its preparation, you need to use leaves that contain little tannins: leaves of beech, birch, hazel, linden, maple, poplar and leaves of fruit trees (if they are not infected with diseases and pests). You should not use the leaves of oak, alder, walnut, because they contain a lot of tannins that inhibit plant growth. Leaves affected by diseases or pests are also not suitable for leafy soil, for example, chestnut leaves, which may contain the larvae of a common pest - the Chestnut miner moth, or the Ohrid miner (Latin Cameraria ohridella).

Diseases and treatment of fuchsia

In most cases, fuchsias get sick from improper care, this also includes poor ventilation in the room in which they are located, as well as the air temperature. All these points are very important for plants. It is also possible that fuchsia can get sick from other plants that can be carriers of diseases.

As a rule, signs of leaf and flower disease on plants appear very quickly and are difficult to miss.

External signs include the wilting of the flower, the appearance of various spots on the leaves and flowers, the absence of flowering, and a sharp fall of leaves. And, of course, the presence of pests on the flower, for example, the whitefly, which, as you know, is very fond of dwelling on fuchsias.

Let's consider the most common fuchsia diseases in detail.

Root rot

It is very easy to identify the cause of the appearance of root (root) rot. It is associated with excessive moisture.

By external signs, root rot can be determined by the falling flower buds, leaf fall out of season and the stop of plant growth. But usually such signs are very similar to other diseases, and therefore root rot is usually found when a flower is transplanted.

Many novice gardeners are wondering what to do with a flower that has been struck by rot, and can it be saved? Of course you can. The main thing is to transplant it on time, cut off damaged roots and process healthy ones with a solution of potassium permanganate. In this state, the flower must be placed in water and wait until it takes back healthy roots, and only after that it can be planted in new soil.

Gray rot

Gray rot is capable of infecting the trunk, branches of a plant and its roots

When transplanting or planting a plant, it is very important to pay attention to its roots. In fuchsia, they are light, almost white and hard. If they are brown and soft, then this is a sure sign that the plant is infected with gray mold.

It often occurs when the plant is flooded with water, and there is already high humidity in the room. When this disease is affected, a characteristic bloom can be observed on the leaves of the plant.

If they are brown and soft, then this is a sure sign that the plant is infected with gray mold. It often occurs when the plant is flooded with water, and there is already high humidity in the room. When affected by this disease, a characteristic bloom can be observed on the leaves of the plant.

If the rot has struck the flowers and leaves, then they must be removed immediately.

The room with the flower must be dry, it is very important to ventilate it regularly

Lack of nutrition

With a lack of vitamins and other useful microelements, the plant often sheds its leaves, its buds can fall off, and the leaves can dry out significantly.

If the leaves turn white and begin to wither, then most likely the fuchsia lacks nitrogen, which can be easily added to the soil. If yellow streaks are visible on the leaves, then most likely the problem is a lack of manganese.

In order not to face a lack of nutrients, it is very important to fertilize the plant in due time with the help of complex fertilizers for fuchsia. They can be found easily in many gardening stores.

The leaves also fall off because of the irrigation regime, when it does not receive enough nutrients through the water.

If the buds fall, not having time to open, then the problem, most likely, also lies in the wrong fertilization. Especially when there is an excess of them or, conversely, a lack.

Rust

Often, fuchsia is affected by a disease such as rust. It belongs to fungal, which means that removing the affected leaves or flowers alone will not help. Here it is recommended to use special preparations - fungicides.

Signs of rust include the characteristic gray-brown spots on the leaves. At the onset of the disease, only their tips can be affected. In addition, with such a disease, the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off, the plant may begin to have abundant leaf fall.

With such a disease, it is very important to cut off all affected leaves, treat the plant with a special preparation or soap solution (made on the basis of water and laundry soap). This fungal disease is considered very dangerous, since it very often affects all neighboring plants.

Aphids on fuchsia

Signs and causes of lesions

Hosta diseases are much less common than insect damage to plants. As a rule, it is diseases that are the result of improper crop care, and thoughtful agricultural technology ensures both the growth and development of the flower. In any case, in order to keep your garden in order, you need to quickly respond to any signs that appear. The presence of viral diseases is signaled by quite a lot of host state transformations. For example, such a situation arises if yellow spots appear on the surface of the sheet plates or a large accumulation of dots.

The neoplasms are round in shape, and the affected area increases over time. In the future, the leaves curl around the edges and finally lose their attractive appearance. Other characteristic features of the virus include dwarfism or simply slow development, as well as interveinal chlorosis. If you look at such a host, you can immediately understand that she is sick.

If the leaf plates are covered with large brown spots, then we are talking about phylostictosis. Individual specks gradually merge with each other, forming a single area of ​​infection. All of it is filled with a fungus that looks like a whitish or yellow bloom. In most cases, not only the plates, but also the flower stalks of the culture become such white or yellow.Finally, all damaged parts dry out, tissue necrosis begins, and dry brown spots crack and break.

When the hosta suffers from gray rot, it can be detected in time by the condition of the edges of the plates - they begin to rot. In addition, an ash-colored bloom forms on the surface, and the tops can dry out. Sometimes part of the leaf even dies off immediately. If you skip the first symptoms, then the entire surface of the leaf will be covered with rot, and the disease will spread to neighboring cultures with fungal spores. The last incurable stages of the disease are characterized by complete drying of leaf blades and stems.

Rot of the root collar is also characteristic of this culture. In this case, the development of the shrub first slows down or even completely stops, after which the leaf plates gradually lose their pigment. They turn yellow, "following" from the edges to the center, then dry and completely discolor. Eventually, the damaged leaves leave the plant. Rot of the root collar occurs due to various fungi, "activated" in the shade, on thickened plantings, subject to excessive moisture.

Promotes its development and deepening of rhizomes. If in the summer in June or July, in the very heat, the ends of the leaf plates begin to dry out, then perhaps we are talking about rust. The reason for its occurrence is the lack of irrigation, especially on hot days.

Bacterial "soft" rot manifests itself in the form of decomposition of cuttings and lower leaves. In addition, a characteristic unpleasant odor arises, and the leaf blades are covered with brown spots. This disease occurs in those places where the leaf is damaged, and therefore bacteria can affect a weakened plant. Sometimes "soft" rot manifests itself after covering the culture with ice in cold weather.

We must not forget about petiola, which is often called crown rot and also refers to a fungal disease. It can be determined by the state of the leaf plates - they first turn yellow, and then fade in the direction from the edges to the center. In addition, their structure becomes looser and even softened at the base. At the same time, large plates come off from the bush due to their weight and unreliable fastening of the base. Sometimes white filaments of the fungus, called mycelium, appear on the host.

Raspberry cancer

Raspberry bacterial cancer is a fairly serious infectious disease. If you do not know why the leaves of the raspberry in the upper part of the bush turn yellow, examine the roots of the plant. If dark, walnut-sized bumps appear on the roots, then, most likely, the cause of the yellowing of the leaves is bacterial cancer.

The disease most often develops on alkaline soils and almost never occurs on acidic soils. Cancer-causing bacteria live and multiply on tumor surfaces - gall. They get to plants through injuries and wounds, and to an area with infected planting material.

There are no cure measures, you can try to save especially valuable varietal bushes and cut off all the roots affected by cancer. The timely application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will help to curb the development of bacterial cancer. Maintaining optimal humidity in the area will be a good prevention of this disease. Observance of crop rotation, the use of green manure will also help to avoid the defeat of raspberries by bacterial cancer.

Controlling raspberry pests can help prevent the spread of cancer and other disease pathogens. For prevention, it is necessary to treat plants in a timely manner with drugs:

These and other means of control are used in strict accordance with the instructions.

Yellow foliage in spring

If the tree turns yellow in the spring, this indicates its obvious disadvantage.

The foliage of a yellow uniform color (without spots) is a sign that the stone fruit does not have enough moisture. Spring turned out to be too meager for rains, and the summer resident did not water the cherries.

Seeing red-brown spots on the leaves of a young seedling, the summer resident will determine that the stone fruit culture is exhausting klyasterosporiosis. The people call this disease perforated spot. Fungal disease affects not only different varieties of cherries, but also cherries, cherry plums. Signs that the tree has become a victim of clasterosporium disease:

• at the beginning of spring, small specks of brownish color appear on the foliage;
• gradually the spots grow: the color of each becomes dark brown, the edging is crimson;
• holes appear at the site of the spots;
• the leaves dry up and fall off;
• buds and flowers often die.

Other common problems with young cherries are worth mentioning.

1. Coccomycosis. This is the name of a fungal disease that can exhaust even strong, strong cherries. Noticing signs of pathology, you can save the culture from death. At the end of May, small specks of a red-brown hue appear on the leaves of sweet cherry trees. By the middle of summer, there are so many of them that they merge into large plaques. On the back of the affected leaf, you may notice grayish formations. Inside them are fungal spores.
2. Verticillosis. Even if the gardener takes good care of the tree, young cherries can pick up this fungal disease. The first manifestations of the disease are yellowing of foliage and shoots in early spring. First, the fungus infects small branches, then large ones. The second symptom is an abundant release of gum. There are cases when tender stone fruit cultures died in one season. To prevent a sad scenario, you should take the time to save the plant.

The tips of the leaves dry out due to dry air

Another reason for dry ends is low air humidity. In winter, it can be less than 30%. Most plants need humidity in the region of 50-60%, for capricious tropical species - 80-90%.

For those species from the tropics that love moisture, it is required to create special conditions that are closest to natural. First of all, you need to increase the humidity of the air. For these purposes, the leaves are sprayed, wiped with a damp cloth, and washed under the shower. These procedures ease the condition of the flower for a short period. To create a humid atmosphere around the pot, place it in a wide tray. Wet pebbles, expanded clay or moss should be placed in the pallet. This will allow moisture to evaporate for a long time, and a favorable climate will be created around the plant.

It is also possible to increase the humidity by placing the pot in a wide planter. The gap between the containers must be filled with damp moss. To humidify the air in the room, you need to use electric humidifiers, fountains, or hang wet rags on hot batteries.

Flowers from the tropics are very delicate. It is forbidden to place them near working heating devices. Under a stream of hot air, the flower shrivels and begins to turn yellow. In addition, the ends begin to dry out due to drafts when doors or windows are open. High humidity is required for azaleas, ferns, and some indoor palms.

Note! Species that can carry dry air include cacti, succulents. They have special protection against moisture evaporation: wax coating, dense shell, pubescence

Diseases

With improper care, excessive irrigation in combination with low temperatures, pathogenic microorganisms are activated that cause diseases, which lead to the fact that the yucca loses its decorative effect, shedding its leaves.

Brown spot

With excessive moisture and an insufficient amount of nutrients in the soil, the plant's immunity is weakened, and the palm tree becomes vulnerable to fungi that cause brown spot. Colorless spots appear on the lower leaves. In the absence of attention, the affected areas acquire a yellow color, and after a few months they turn brown, mycelium spores become noticeable.To cure yucca for brown spot, you must:

1. Dry the soil in the pot.
2. Reduce the amount of irrigation.
3. Pluck off infected leaves.

The succulent plant should be treated 3-4 times within 2 weeks with Topaz or the stronger fungicide Ridomil Gold.

Marginal leaf necrosis

Excess moisture helps to activate the Cytospora fungus. The pathogen begins to multiply, but with the timely detection of signs of the disease, yucca can be saved. Gray spots first form at the ends of the leaves, quickly spread to the entire plate, darken, acquire a brown-black color.

Fusarium rot

To cure a succulent from a fungal infection, you need to spray the entire plant with chemicals, from the root to the trunk and top. It is better to remove some of the land, since there are spores in the soil.

Yellowing of a young apple tree

The main reasons why the leaves of a young apple tree turn yellow:

• If the groundwater is shallow, then a three-year-old young apple tree may begin to turn yellow (such cases are not uncommon).
• For young apple trees, fungal infection is uncharacteristic, unlike old ones, which are more often prone to yellowing of the foliage due to fungal infections. An actively growing tree may lack nitrogen.
• If the apple tree does not turn yellow all, but only individual branches with the formation of a brown edge at the leaf (marginal burn), then it is necessary to add potassium dressing.
• With a deficiency of sulfur and nitrogen, the changes in the color of young leaves are similar, therefore, it is necessary to fertilize with complex mineral fertilizer.

Other reasons why young apple trees turn yellow:

1. Hot weather.
2. Pests.
3. Less commonly, fungal diseases.

The presence of spots on the leaves is a sign of scab or brown spot. Scab damage is usually noticeable in the spring. Oily specks appear on the leaves, then a velvet bloom appears and the plate turns brown and dries up.

Bordeaux liquid is used to process young trees; Skor or Fitosporin preparations are also suitable.

To increase the viability, the affected specimen is fed with nitroammophos, the boxes are dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Previously, the tree is plentifully watered with several buckets of water, then 2-3 liters of the prepared solution are added.

Look at the video about a disease such as scab:

Diseases that cause raspberries to turn yellow and dry

Root cancer

This is a bacterial disease that affects the root system of the bush. Its appearance can be provoked by soil with an increased level of acidity, dry weather, or growing raspberries in the same place.

With this disease, growths are formed on the roots, reaching up to 12 cm in diameter, which become denser over time. They prevent the roots from absorbing moisture and nutrients from the soil. As a result, raspberries turn yellow, often in spring, then dry out and die.

Of the measures to combat root cancer, there is only the elimination and burning of infected plants. You can not plant anything at this place for 2-4 years. To prevent pathogenic bacteria from entering the site, before planting, you need to water the soil with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Raspberry roots should be placed in the same solution before planting, then rinse them with water. To prevent the bacteria that cause root cancer from multiplying, you need to feed the plants with fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

When choosing a site for planting, you should pay attention to those areas where legumes grew. Avoid excessive moisture in the soil and loosen it after each watering

Raspberry rust

This disease is caused by fungi, reducing the quality of the crop from infected bushes. Raspberry rust usually occurs at high humidity and air temperature. You can recognize its appearance by light red spots on the leaves.

Plants begin to weaken, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. Rust is transferred by spores. To treat bushes, they must be treated with a fungicide, removed and burned damaged shoots.In the spring, you can treat the seedlings with a solution of Bordeaux liquid, potassium salt or ammonium sulfate.

Raspberries turn yellow and dry due to chlorosis

This is a viral disease that causes raspberry leaves to turn yellow in spring or summer. At the initial stage, the color is lost along the veins, then the entire leaf is discolored and its edges dry out. Chlorosis is carried by aphids and ticks.

To protect plants, pest treatment with appropriate preparations, burning of diseased shoots and the selection of disease-resistant varieties are used.

Bacterial and fungal infections

Leaves can quickly turn yellow when contaminated with bacterial flora. It enters the hemerocallis through damage to the roots or ground parts. Every agricultural technician knows that microorganisms spread rapidly, leading to death. Depending on the pathogen, the following changes are detected on the daylily:

• rot;
• growths;
• withering;
• necrosis.

At risk are acclimatized varieties imported from South America.

Soft rot

Most often, the rot of the root collar is detected in the daylily. It appears against the background of a decrease in immunity after winter or preparation for a cold time, high soil moisture. Another condition affecting resistance to bacteria is the appearance of pests (bears, beetles, thrips).

Bacteriosis can occur during different periods of the growing season. In early spring, he chooses the thermophilic species of the deciduous or evergreen group. As the temperature rises, microorganisms enter the frozen tissues of the neck of the root and stem. Without treatment, it spreads to the rhizome, leading to the death of the bush.

The first signs of the disease appear when the temperature outside rises to + 16 ° C. The leaves turn yellow, easily detach from the bush, and have a specific aroma. To fight the infection, they carry out cleaning, disinfection, and use drugs. Treatment is carried out directly in the soil or the neck is exposed. With large areas of damage, the plants are removed from the soil, and vice versa, with changes in small areas, good care skills, the neck is partially exposed.

First, the damaged parts are removed from the bush. To get a good look at the roots, they are washed with water. Then the rhizome is sprayed with foundation, copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur or copper oxychloride. Some gardeners use whiteness, which contains bleach or hydrogen peroxide. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, the root is immersed in it for 60 minutes.

After drying the rhizome, the bush is planted in a new place. Even such measures do not guarantee re-emergence of the infection. Old soil must be disinfected with potassium permanganate, fungicide or bleach 10%.

Honeydew rot

The disease was identified relatively recently - in 2004. It is caused by fungi of the genus Amillaria, which live in woody plants. They affect the roots and the basal part of the flowers. The provoking factors include constant waterlogging of the soil. Rot manifests itself like this:

1. yellowing of sheets;
2. weak growth;
3. lack of flowering;
4. necrosis of the green part.

If the stem is cut longitudinally, white formations are visible. Then they sprout into the roots.

Fungi spread easily in soil through mycelium spores or hyphae. The latter form golden-colored fruiting bodies that form in the fall. They can be seen around the bush just before death.

Iris spot

The disease is caused by fungi such as mucosfarella. The pathogen persists in the soil for a long time, it tolerates frost. When plants are planted in the affected soil, it gradually captures new parts. Gray spots form on the sheets, which eventually become covered with a gray bloom. Necrosis is visible on the tops of the leaves.

To fight the infection, the affected parts are removed, the bush is sprayed with a copper-containing fungicide, means with chlorothalonil (Ditan, Dakonil). After 2 weeks, the treatment is repeated. To increase resistance to fungi, drugs with propiconazole are used. They are used up to 6 times per season.

Fungal diseases

The leaf, stems and seed pods become stained when infected by phytopathogenic fungi. They belong to the lowest microorganisms, since they cannot receive nutrients on their own. Fungi parasitize plants, taking minerals from them. They can be suspected by the following signs:

1. fluffy bloom;
2. spots;
3. yellowness and drying of the plates;
4. dying off of the tips.