Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse
Some growers, especially those who sell flowers, grow them in a greenhouse. The advantages of this method are that under certain conditions the plant can bloom all year round. Chrysanthemum diseases and pests are not so active in the greenhouse.
So, observing agricultural techniques and carrying out preventive treatments, you can enjoy bright flowering for more than one month.
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Amateur flower growers are faced with the fact that on chrysanthemums all the leaves from the bottom to the buds turn black, although the plants bloom well. What is this disease and how to get rid of it?
In order to stop the spread of the disease in time and save chrysanthemums, it is important to correctly determine the causes of blackening of the leaves. As a rule, black spots on the leaves signal one of the fungal diseases, which we will discuss in this article.
It is important to understand that all fungal infections accumulate in the soil, in the roots, on fallen leaves, in the case of long-term cultivation of the culture in one place. The harmfulness of the disease also increases in thickened plantings, with unbalanced mineral nutrition (excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers), in case of sharp temperature fluctuations, overdrying of plants or waterlogging.
The harmfulness of the disease also increases in thickened plantings, with unbalanced mineral nutrition (excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers), in case of sudden temperature fluctuations, overdrying of plants or waterlogging.
Causes
There can be many reasons for the development of chrysanthemum diseases - from the appearance of insect pests (such as thrips or aphids) on the site to the spread of fungal diseases. Often, infection occurs from neighboring plants, this is how powdery mildew spreads. Improper care can be attributed to frequent sources of problems, which contributes to the creation of favorable conditions for the appearance of root rot. What can lead to plant diseases?
Among the mistakes made by inexperienced growers are:
- excessively abundant soil moisture;
- stagnation of water at the roots due to poor drainage;
- too cold air;
- lack or excess of fertilizers;
- fungal infection of the planting material;
- introduction of fresh manure.
In addition to problems associated with improper farming practices, chrysanthemums often suffer from infections that are activated in favorable weather conditions. If aphids appear on the site, it is worth examining the neighboring plants. Especially often it affects greenhouse and greenhouse chrysanthemums.
Control methods
What treatment is recommended for different diseases of chrysanthemums? There are general rules for certain groups of diseases. With fungal infections, the first step is to remove all affected plant parts. They must be destroyed by burning. Fight against the disease with fungicides begins if the disease spreads rapidly. To get rid of fusarium in the soil helps regulate its acidity to 7 pH.
Among the most popular formulations for combating fungal infections are:
- 1% solution of colloidal sulfur;
- Bordeaux liquid;
- copper preparations;
- Fundazol.
At home, flower growers are most often faced with mosaic - a viral disease that causes dwarfism, shredding of flowers, yellowing of foliage. You can get rid of it by removing the already affected areas, replanting the plant and ridding it of weeds.If possible, the plants affected by the mosaic are destroyed or discarded without taking cuttings from them for propagation.
If powdery mildew appears on the plants - a white bloom, similar to dusting, you should not hesitate. Usually, the disease manifests itself against the background of a lack of nitrogen-potassium fertilizers in the soil. First, treatment is performed using a soda ash solution on a soap base. For 10 liters of water, take 40 g of each substance.
With insects
When affected by nematodes - roundworms that destroy plants, the main sources of danger are soil, humus, and burning foliage. Recommended plant rescue measures are related to spring mulching. Sometimes a solution of insecticidal soap or the drug "Heterophos" helps to revive the leaves. You need to spray the entire bush, trying to process it as efficiently as possible. If this measure did not help, the plant, along with the earthen clod, is dug up and destroyed.
The fight against aphids is of greatest interest to summer residents. Since these pests affect not only chrysanthemums, a wealth of experience has been accumulated in this area. Among the most popular means to help destroy aphids are the following.
- Mechanical treatment of all parts of the plant with soapy water. The procedure is performed with gloves, using a soft sponge. Relevant if aphids have appeared recently.
- Chemical pest control. It is performed using the preparations "Karbofos", "Phosphamide", "Metaphos" on a phosphate basis. The solution is prepared at the rate of 20 ml of liquid per 10 liters of water. Processing is carried out at calm hours, in the morning or in the evening, using a sprayer, with the obligatory spraying of the soil in the root zone.
- Using ammonia. To do this, prepare an aqueous solution in a ratio of 100 ml per 1 liter of water, spraying is repeated every 12 days until the pests are completely destroyed. Work is performed in a respirator.
- Folk remedies. Most often these are infusions, for example, 20 g of onion peel per 1 liter of water. The resulting composition is sprayed with chrysanthemums. The procedure is repeated three times, every 10 days. A concentrated solution of tar or laundry soap also helps. It is applied to the places of the greatest accumulation of insects.
- Planting plants that are natural enemies of aphids. Pelargonium possesses these properties.
You can also fight spider mites with the help of prevention and treatment measures.
It is important to deprive him of opportunities for comfortable wintering by destroying autumn debris, heaps of prevailing foliage, and digging up the top layer of soil. If the pest has already appeared, it is worth using sulfur powder or its colloidal 1% solution in a volume of 100 g per 10 liters of water
The composition is applied so that it falls on the lower part of the sheet, with a threefold repetition, every 10 days.
Pest control methods are conventionally divided into three groups:
- Folk methods. Folk aphid control methods involve the use of any available means to scare away and destroy the pest.
- Chemical methods. This is the most radical way, requiring the attraction of chemicals of various concentrations.
- Biological methods. In order to cope with the problem, you can try to use the laws of nature itself to your advantage. In their natural habitat, insects, like any other creature, hunt each other. Therefore, you can use ladybirds or riders that will destroy aphids.
Improper care
Often, the leaves of room chrysanthemums, as well as street specimens, dry out due to improper care. The most popular mistakes that flower growers make in growing this flower:
Drying of foliage can be caused by insufficient or overabundance of watering. In the summer, the plant should be watered at least 1 time per week, in the winter, the specimens transplanted into the pot are moistened as the soil dries. Usually watered in winter once every two weeks.
To prevent leaves from drying out in indoor plants, they should be placed in a cool room where there are no drafts. Also, do not put a chrysanthemum in a pot next to heating appliances. In a room with dry air, the flower will quickly dry out and die.
Lack or excess of nutrients in the soil. Chrysanthemum should be fertilized regularly with organic and mineral fertilizers. When applying dressings, you should strictly follow the instructions. With a lack of fertilizers, chrysanthemum often gets sick and dies, an excess of nutrients in the soil can cause intoxication - yellowing, drying out and falling foliage, suspension of growth and flowering. You can save a street or indoor plant if you transplant it into new soil with the required soil composition.
Often in chrysanthemums, especially indoor ones, the leaves turn yellow and dry due to insufficient lighting. This often happens during the winter. This phenomenon can be avoided by placing the flower in a sunny place and providing it with artificial light.
For indoor specimens, regular transplantation is required. In a cramped pot, the plant stops its growth, the inflorescences are formed small, and the leaves turn yellow, dry up and fall off. Young specimens are transplanted every year, adults every 3 years with a change of soil.
There are many reasons why chrysanthemum leaves dry and crumble. By optimizing care, preventive treatments and timely treatment of diseases, this phenomenon can be avoided. As a result, you will get a beautiful, brightly flowering plant that will delight you with its decorative effect for several years.
Chrysanthemum is a widespread autumn flower. Its multi-colored lush heads adorn flower beds and even indoor window sills. Despite its simplicity and unpretentiousness, it still requires attention and proper care.
Treatment of fungal and viral diseases
Chrysanthemums have relatively strong immunity, so timely prevention will help avoid problems. But, if the flower is still sick, it is useful to know what the chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment are.
The most common fungal infections of chrysanthemums are caused by thickening of plantings, and in this regard, poor ventilation, also heat, high acidity of the soil, excess nitrogen in the soil. Fungi of various origins on chrysanthemums are effectively dealt with with the help of fungicides - Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol.
Chrysanthemum leaf septoria
Why do the lower leaves of chrysanthemums dry? Often this is a sign of septoria, which makes itself felt by the appearance of yellow spots, as a rule, it is on the lower leaves of chrysanthemums closest to the surface of the earth - the spots darken, acquire a brown tint, then turn black, spread over the surface, as if healthy greens are burning out.
Chrysanthemum leaf septoria - pictured
What to do:
- Darkened vegetation is plucked and burned
- Infected specimens are sprayed with fungicides
- For prophylaxis in flower beds and in general on the site, withered vegetation should be removed in time
Rust
On the outside of the leaves of chrysanthemums, pale spots appear, and on the inside they are powdery orange, rust reduces the intensity of flowering, since it takes a lot of effort to fight the infection.
What to do:
chrysanthemum rust - pictured
spots on chrysanthemum leaves - in the photo
Infected leaves are removed immediately Bushes are treated with fungicides Planting is thinned out to improve air circulation Watering strictly at the root, water should not fall on the foliage
Fusarium wilting
If the leaves of a chrysanthemum turn yellow, this may be the first sign of fusarium wilting, a disease caused by the fungus Fusarium.A sick flower experiences an acute lack of moisture, since the fungus infects the roots and prevents the flow of water necessary for the growth of the chrysanthemum. In affected specimens, development slows down, they noticeably lag behind in growth, and often it never comes to flowering.
Fusarium wilt of chrysanthemum - in the photo
What to do in such cases:
- Infected bushes are completely removed
- Choose varieties with increased resistance to fusarium
- The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral, with a pH level of 6.5 - 7.0
Powdery mildew
A symptom of this fungal disease is a dirty white powdery bloom on chrysanthemums, often occurs in a humid environment, therefore it spreads widely in wet rainy weather.
How to help the plant:
- Infected parts are removed
- Bushes are carefully treated with fungicides
Mosaic
In total, at least two dozen viral infections are known to which the autumn beauty of chrysanthemum is susceptible - these are aspermia, dwarfism, white spot of flowers, rosette and others. One of the most dangerous viruses for chrysanthemums is mosaic, the specimens affected by it lag behind in development, grow poorly, their foliage turns yellow, and the flowers become smaller.
What to do:
- Sick bushes completely destroy
- The site is regularly cleared of weeds
Non-communicable diseases
A perennial plant does not require adherence to complex care rules, so even a novice grower will be able to grow it. Breeders managed to breed chrysanthemums of different shades - from white-pink, raspberry, burgundy to bright yellow. Since chrysanthemum has been growing in one place for many years without transplanting, it begins to undergo various diseases. Despite the high resistance to ailments, it is difficult for flowers to resist garden infections, and young plants often suffer from the invasion of insect pests.
The reason for the appearance of such diseases of chrysanthemums is a violation of the rules for caring for the plant: the temperature regime is not observed, the soil suffers from an excess or lack of mineral fertilizers, the chrysanthemum is flooded with water. In this case, it is not difficult to cure flowers - it is necessary to identify and eliminate an error in the cultivation technology.
Diseases belonging to the group of non-infectious ones do not pass from an affected flower to a healthy one, but they do not allow the bushes to develop normally and cause a general depletion of the plant. The appearance of ailments in chrysanthemums can be provoked by 3 factors.
- The lack of a drainage system in the soil leads to decay of the plant roots. Oxygen ceases to flow into the ground, and when watering flowers, water is not absorbed properly. The roots of the plant are sour and are not fed with useful substances necessary for active growth, as a result of which the flower begins to wither, its leaves turn yellow, die off and chrysanthemums die.
- Gardeners need to closely monitor compliance with the watering regime. Excess water will deform the plant. Microcracks appear on the bush, which lead to the fact that the buds are unable to hold onto the top and begin to break off. Lack of moisture is dangerous for chrysanthemums. Without water, the plant begins to wilt, its inflorescences become smaller, and the foliage dries and falls off.
- Flowers also get sick from a sharp temperature drop. If you do not cover flowering plants in early spring during a cold snap, the leaves turn red and veined.
After planting chrysanthemums, carefully observe the bushes. Flowers always signal a deterioration in their health. If you react in time, you can save them from death.
Common diseases with photos of damaged plants
Why don't they bloom?
Diagnostics: on average, up to 2 months should pass from planting to flowering (depending on weather conditions).
If this period has expired, and flowering does not occur, most likely the flowers were improperly maintained.
We talked in detail about the features of caring for marigolds at home and in the open field in this material.
In this case, often all the strength of the plant is spent on the development of green mass.
Reasons: Lack of flowering can cause an abundance of fertilizers and a large amount of moisture, as well as drought, lack of air in the soil or lack of natural light.
What to do: the planting site should be sunny or in partial shade. You need to water every day, on hot days - in the morning and in the evening. Loosening the soil at least once a week stimulates flowering. Withered buds should be removed. You also need to add fertilizer, otherwise the soil will be depleted.
What causes the leaves to turn white?
Diagnosis: white bloom can be seen on the leaves.
Reasons: the leaves of marigolds turn white from being affected by a spider mite (a white bloom similar to a cobweb) or powdery mildew (white spots and leaves curling around the edges).
What to do: The mite does not like high humidity, so if you spray the flowers with water often, it will not destroy the flowers. In addition, tobacco infusion diluted with water and laundry soap helps (then the tick will definitely go away). Sulfur-based fungicides are used to protect against powdery mildew.
You can find out more about how to protect marigolds from spider mites and other pests and diseases here.
For what reason do they fade?
Diagnostics: the bushes wither quickly.
Causes: Marigolds can be affected by root rot, black leg, slugs, aphids, as well as other diseases and pests. Often for this reason, they wither:
- Black leg is the very first disease of marigolds in terms of prevalence. Light, darkening and decaying spots appear below the stem, leading to wilting.
- At later stages, under unfavorable conditions, marigolds can be affected by root rot. In this case, the plants begin to grow more slowly, turn yellow, and then they die.
- It happens that at the end of summer, marigolds appear in group plantings with yellowed shoots and deformed leaves with yellow, cream, bronze spots and patterns. You can also notice the underdevelopment of the buds and the absence of seeds. All these are signs of viral diseases.
- In greenhouses, in hot conditions, in the open field, plants can be affected by the greenhouse whitefly. This small butterfly feeds on the sap of marigold leaves. On the sugary secretions of its larvae, sooty fungi often settle and the leaves are covered with a black bloom.
- With high humidity (rains) slugs and snails come out. They gnaw the stems and leaves of the Tagetes.
- Caterpillars very often begin to eat foliage. Caterpillars eat leaves and the plant loses its appearance. In addition, the caterpillars use the leaves for their larvae.
- In some cases, aphids appear on marigolds. It sticks to the entire surface of flowers, tops of shoots, buds and stems.
What to do:
- To save the plants from the black leg, the seeds and soil should be treated with fungicides before sowing and potassium permanganate should be added to the water for irrigation - but you should not do this often (you can find out how to grow marigolds from seeds here). If the marigolds began to die, you need to immediately remove them. The ground next to the remaining plants is sprinkled with calcined sand, perlite or ash.
- Root rot infestation can be prevented by providing them with the best growth conditions (loose, structured soil, weeding regularly).
- In case of viral diseases, infected flowers must be removed.
- When a greenhouse whitefly is affected, flowers are treated with pesticides, as an option, with actara.
- Against slugs and snails, small boards, dense fabric, halves of potatoes or apples can be laid out near the marigolds. Slugs gather under them and can be destroyed. When slugs appear, the soil near the plants is sprinkled with ash and lime. The bushes are sprayed with a mustard suspension.
- Thrips can be prevented by prevention.
- To get rid of caterpillars, flowers are sprayed with chemicals.
- To get rid of aphids, the plant is watered with a strong stream of water. And so that she does not return, they are treated with chemicals.
Chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment
There are several main ailments that affect chrysanthemums most often. These are mainly fungal diseases, but sometimes the flowers succumb to the effects of viruses.
Septoriasis
The symptoms of the disease are spots on the foliage of a flowering perennial. At first they are yellow, then gradually acquire a dark brown and black hue, grow and merge with each other. The disease spreads from the bottom up, first the root leaves of the plant suffer. If you do not start treating septoria, then it can lead to the complete death of the perennial.
Septoria can be recognized by yellow-brown spots
Getting rid of septoria in the early stages is quite simple. It is necessary to completely remove the affected leaves, and then treat the plant with Bordeaux liquid or copper preparations - vitriol, HOM solution.
White rust
Fungal disease has characteristic symptoms. First, lighter areas appear on the leaves, and orange spots of a mealy structure appear on the underside of the leaf plates. Over time, the disease spreads through the flower, the chrysanthemum weakens and begins to fade. Such a plant can no longer bloom properly.
White rust appears with mealy orange spots on the bottom and light areas on the top of the leaf.
To cure rust, you need to urgently cut off all leaves with light and orange spots. After that, you need to thin out the chrysanthemum bushes to provide free air access, and spray the flower bed with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate. Subsequently, chrysanthemums need to be watered very carefully so that water does not fall on their leaves.
Fusarium
A fungal disease affects the root system. But the first symptoms become noticeable on the leaves, they turn yellow and turn brown, begin to dry out and fall off. The nutrition of the plant is disrupted, the chrysanthemum ceases to receive nutrients from the soil in the required volumes and ultimately dies.
With fusarium, the leaves become covered with dots and turn yellow
To cure the disease, you need to remove the affected leaves and flowers. Planting chrysanthemums is sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, and the soil is spilled with solutions that increase acidity. for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium nitrate. Individual plants that have suffered too much from the disease are best eliminated, it is almost impossible to save a seriously affected root system.
Powdery mildew
The fungus very often infects chrysanthemums in damp and warm weather. The disease manifests itself with a recognizable bloom on the leaves, whitish, ash-gray, with a mealy structure. As the disease progresses, the leaf plates begin to wither and die off, the plant stops vegetative processes, and it dies.
Powdery mildew leaves a whitish-gray coating on foliage
You can cope with powdery mildew with standard fungicides - copper sulfate, HOM solution, Fundazol helps well. Before you spray the flower bed, you must first remove the affected leaves from the chrysanthemums, and also completely eliminate the heavily affected plants.
Bacterial root cancer
The disease belongs to the category of incurable, although it does not affect chrysanthemums very often. The most striking symptom of bacterial cancer is the growths on the stems of the plant. Cancer develops rapidly, chrysanthemum not only stops blooming, but also completely dies.
Bacterial cancer manifests itself as growths on the stems
When alarming signs appear, the diseased chrysanthemum must be removed from the flower bed entirely, it is impossible to save it. The plant affected by the disease is burned, and the soil in which it grew is treated with a formalin solution. You cannot plant other plants in this area for at least a month.
Chrysanthemum mosaic
One of the most dangerous diseases for chrysanthemum is the viral mosaic. It is quite easy to recognize it - uneven spots of a light shade appear on the leaves of an infected plant.The chrysanthemum begins to grow more slowly, its flowers become smaller, and the foliage turns yellow, as a result, flowering stops completely.
Mosaic stains chrysanthemum leaves and cannot be treated
It is impossible to cure mosaic disease. Affected chrysanthemums must simply be removed from the site so that the disease does not spread to neighboring plants.
Description of the signs of chrysanthemum diseases - prevention, how to treat and fight
The most harmful are:
Powdery mildew
A powdery bloom appears on all organs of diseased flowers.
Prevention and treatment
We process chrysanthemums with Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B. With extensive damage to the bushes, we treat them with Topaz, Strobe, Skor, Purest flowers, Tiovit Jet. As a preventive measure, we use the choice of the most resistant varieties of flowers to this disease, regular application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the soil, root watering of bushes, periodic removal of lower leaves and various plant residues.
Soft rot
Some parts of the chrysanthemums are withering away. At the same time, the stems of the plant turn black and become soft. They break easily along the shoot. Vessels inside the stems acquire a brownish tint. This disease most often affects bushes that are in greenhouses or hotbeds in summer.
Control measures
We immediately destroy the infected specimens of flowers. Water the remaining bushes under the very root with Fitosporin-M or Plirin-B.
Tumors of different sizes appear on the stems and foliage.
Control methods
We burn the specimens infected with the disease.
Bacteriosis
The causative agent of this plant disease is soil bacteria, which causes the formation of growths at the root collar of the bush, resembling cauliflower in shape. The stalks of chrysanthemums become fleshy and ugly.
How to fight
We remove the formed tumors.
Stem rot
Affected chrysanthemums wilt, and the lower part of the stems becomes brownish-black. Further, the rot spreads to the lower leaves.
Prevention and control
We burn the infected specimens. The remaining plants are treated with Bactofit, Fongilan or Trichodermin. To prevent disease, we provide plantings with good drainage so that the water in the place of their growth does not stagnate.
Fomoz
The leaves turn pale yellow, and then acquire a brownish tint.
Ways to fight
We burn the infected specimens.
Verticillary wilting
Chrysanthemum leaves wither and dry out. However, they do not fall, but remain on the escape.
Prevention and control methods
We burn infected copies of flowers. In order to prevent the disease, the bushes are treated with Alirin-B, Gamair.
White rot
Chrysanthemums wither, and brownish specks appear on their stems. White felt-like mycelium can be found inside the shoots. Black sclerotia are visible in it.
Control measures
We burn the specimens infected with the disease, and process the remaining ones with Rovral.
Gray rot
This disease affects flowers in autumn, when the weather is humid and warm. Their petals are covered with brown spots, and the buds begin to rot from the base. All plant tissues soften and acquire a watery structure. In humid weather, a mold of gray shade appears on them.
How to fight
Cut out the dying parts of the chrysanthemums. We process the bushes with such preparations as Skor, Fundazol, Ronilan, Rovral, Chistotsvet.
Ascochitosis
On all parts of the flower, dark brown or almost black spots quickly spread. Young stems wilt, and the chrysanthemum gradually dies.
Control methods
We burn infected plant specimens.
Septoria spot
Grayish round spots appear on the foliage of chrysanthemums.
Ways to fight
We burn the infected specimens. To prevent the onset of the disease, we treat the plants with copper sulfate, Ditan Ultra, and copper oxychloride.
White rust
On the upper part of the leaf plate of the plant, convex spots of a light shade are formed. Waxy sporangia appear at the bottom of the leaf in a circle. They gradually take on a cinnamon hue.
Means of struggle
We destroy the leaves infected with the disease. We treat flowers with various preparations alternately, since this fungal disease adapts to various chemicals. We spray chrysanthemums with copper chloride, Abiga-Peak.
Ramulariasis
Yellowish or brownish specks appear on the leaf blades.
Control measures
We burn the infected specimens. We process the remaining bushes with Rovral or Saprol.
