Diseases of flowers powdery mildew and peronosporosis
Powdery mildew is the most common garden flower disease caused by several types of pathogenic fungi.
The affected leaves curl, sometimes fall off, the shoots stop growing and, with a strong development of the disease, die off. This fungal disease of flowers spreads very quickly, affecting primarily young shoots and leaves. The causative agent of the disease overwinters on dead plant parts.
How to treat this flower disease in the garden? Along with the creation of optimal conditions for the development of plants in the fight against powdery mildew, it is necessary to use special preparations of a healing, eradicating and prophylactic effect. These are Topaz and Skor
It is important not to "start" the disease and spray when the first signs appear. If necessary, the treatment with pesticides is repeated after two weeks.
In the summer months, when the air temperature is above +22 ... + 23 ° C, the treatment of plants with garden gray, colloidal or "Tpobit" gives good results.
The infection develops on the leaves: light yellow angular oily spots appear on the upper side, which subsequently turn brown, on the lower.
As you can see in the photo, the disease of flowers peronosporosis provokes the formation of a grayish-purple plaque in the spots of spots, consisting of pathogenic conidia:
The spots gradually increase, merge, and the leaf dries out.
The causative agent of downy mildew persists in the remains of diseased leaves in the form of zoospores, which can be viable for six years. In moist soil, they germinate, and the tobacco seedlings are infected.
To protect against this disease, when planting summer plants, you need to return the tobacco to the flower garden no earlier than six years later in the event of a disease of this culture in the previous year. Do not plant seedlings too thickly. When sowing seeds in the soil of a flower garden or renewing plants from self-seeding, break out the seedlings in a timely manner.
How to treat flowers for this disease? When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the plants with Profit Gold twice with an interval of 10-14 days.
Why is the host not growing
Although the hosta loves shaded areas, she still needs sunlight. The place for planting is chosen such that the sun's rays fall on the leaves for at least several hours a day, in the morning hours. Also, the plant should be protected from through winds.
Lack of moisture
The host is very fond of moisture. Its slow development may indicate that the plant simply does not have enough water. Therefore, for the full and rapid development of the bush, regular watering should be carried out. Of course, the hosta will not dry out if it does not receive the required amount of water for some time, since the plant is considered drought-resistant, but the growth of both the plant itself and its leaves will slow down significantly.
Landscaping with hosts
Other reasons
One of the most dangerous host pests is mice. They can damage the root system of the plant, thereby slowing down its growth. Another problem with rodent attacks on the host is stealth, since the top of the plant remains intact.
Important! If the hosta has developed normally for several years, and then stopped developing, the root system of the plant should be checked, as it could have suffered at low temperatures in winter. Also, the host can grow poorly after a serious illness.
She needs time to recover, it can take months
Also, the hosta can grow poorly after a serious illness.She needs time to recover, it can take several months.
Hosta is famous for its large and wide green leaves. This plant is a decoration of any site, summer cottage. It is used in landscape design, combined with many plants, and creates a unique look for various compositions.
Hosta is famous for its unpretentious care and maintenance, as well as strong immunity to many diseases. There are many host varieties that adapt to different housing conditions. And even a beginner can handle caring for this plant.
Control methods
If hosta shrubs suffer from a viral disease, then their treatment is that the plant is completely removed from the ground and burned right along with the adjacent soil mixture. Unfortunately, there is no way to save the plant, and there is no point in treating it. Those garden tools that were used for digging are reliably treated with a disinfectant, for example, soaked in a solution of manganese or formalin. Unlike viruses, phyllostictosis can be cured. You need to do the following: first, reduce the amount of irrigation of the bush and completely eliminate the damaged parts - cut and burn them.
In the next step, the remaining plant is treated with a suitable medicinal composition, for example, "Strobi" or "Vectra", which is applied by spraying. Experienced gardeners often use colloidal sulfur, half a glass of which must be diluted in 10 liters of settled liquid. The buds must be additionally treated with copper sulfate diluted in water, or with a solution of colloidal sulfur. This treatment is repeated after another 10 days, and then as many times as will require a complete cure.
To treat the initial stage of gray rot, it is enough to simply spray the diseased leaves with a suitable drug - Bordeaux liquid, Topaz or Champion. If it was not possible to quickly correct the situation with putrefactive diseases, then there is only one way to deal with them - to completely dig out the bush, burn it along with the ground and do not forget about processing tools.
Treatment of rot of the root collar is as follows: if the disease has appeared recently, then the bush will have to be completely dug up and freed from that part of the root system that has become rotten with a processed knife. The cut points are immediately coated with a fungicide or other disinfectant. The treated host must be transplanted to a new place, so as not to provoke a second disease.
To treat rust, it is enough to simply change the care of the host. For this, the shrub is transplanted to a shady area, and the irrigation process is made more balanced and is necessarily carried out with the help of naturally warmed water.
In addition, it is important for the shrub to provide regular spraying. Getting rid of "soft" rot is carried out only by destroying the shrub
After work, it is necessary to thoroughly wash hands and gloves, as well as disinfect the tools used. It is unlikely that it will be possible to cure the host from petiol. The plant must be removed from the soil and destroyed, not forgetting about the elimination of the contaminated soil.
It is important to add that some varieties of hosts are rare, expensive, and therefore valuable, so it may be a pity to just throw them away. You can try to transplant the infected shrub into a separate container, isolating it from the rest of the inhabitants of the garden, and then try to treat the host and look at its further "behavior"
Brief description of special cases
Young apple tree and seedling
Main reasons:
- Incorrect fit
- Unsuitable soil composition,
- Waterlogged soil,
- Damage to fungal diseases,
- Freezing of roots in winter.
Often a change in the color of leaf plates from green to yellow is associated with a lack of magnesium, boron, as well as potassium and phosphorus.
Deficiency of these elements causes death of the ends of the shoots.
Dependence of mineral deficiency and yellowing of leaves.
TIP: A sufficient nitrogen concentration is indicated by the presence of nettle as a weed. The presence of a dandelion, on the other hand, indicates a shortage.
On one branch
Yellowing of the foliage on one branch may indicate aphid damage to a part of the tree.
Other causes: root damage from mice or moles.
Many of the above options (freezing of roots, deficiency of elements) can lead to yellowing of not the entire tree.
A serious problem that threatens the life of an apple tree is bark diseases, for example, cytosporosis. The lesion focus first covers one branch, then spreads more strongly, and finally to the entire tree.
Leaves turn yellow and dry
The reason lies in the development of fungal diseases or sucking insects, in particular, aphids. It is better to prevent such problems than to deal with them as they arise.
Leaves curl and fall
As a result of feeding, the aphids suck the juices from the leaves, as a result, the foliage curls and falls off. This coincides with the curvature of young shoots.
Aphids accumulate at the ends of the branches, it is there that it is necessary to more intensively process with the preparations Confidor or Iskra, and a decoction of wormwood or garlic is suitable from folk remedies.
Leaves turn pale
The chlorosis described above usually occurs in early summer. With this disease, the leaves can become almost white.
If chlorosis is weak, then spraying with 2% iron sulfate will help.
If chlorosis is caused by an excess of lime, then the site may be generally unsuitable for growing garden trees.
TIP: It is necessary to assess the condition of weeds (dandelion, bindweed, yarrow, etc.) in order to determine the cause of apple chlorosis. If the herbs are pale in color, then alfalfa is planted as green manure to normalize the soil, rotted manure or ammonium sulfate / nitrate is also introduced into the soil (alkaline fertilizers will not work, only top dressing with an acid reaction).
Other diseases of clivia and their photos
Of the pests, the culture is occasionally damaged by scale insects that cover the leaves with brown spots, or mealybugs, which cause curvature and drying of the leaf plates. The control measures for both pests are the same: mechanical cleaning with soapy water with the addition of kerosene or alcohol, after which the flower is washed under a warm shower, with a large degree of damage - treatment with an insecticide such as actellik.
Images of plant leaves with signs of pests and diseases of clivia will help determine the cause of the problem and eliminate it in time, photos of some of them are presented below:
Onion pests
Unfortunately, not always the problem of yellowing of onion feathers can be solved by adjusting the watering and feeding regime. Sometimes the blame is the invasion of insect pests.
Stem nematode
Wondering why the feather on the bow turns yellow and wrinkles? Try ripping open the "unpresentable" sheet. If inside you find small white filamentous worms, know that your onion has been hit by a stem nematode, one of the most dangerous pests of onions.
Control measures: Unfortunately, only high-quality preventive treatment of seedlings and soil before planting helps in the fight against nematodes. In the summer, when the larvae migrated from the bulb to the feathers, it remains only to immediately burn the affected plants, so as not to allow the pest to ruin the entire onion crop.
Onion moth
The onion moth lays its eggs at the base of the leaves or in the soil near the onion several times per season.The first generation of these insects begins to harm crops in late spring - early summer.If you find small yellowish caterpillars with brown warts inside the yellowed feather of an onion, then it is due to the defeat of the onion moth.
Control measures: Given that the pest hibernates in the butterfly stage, treatment of the bulbs will not help prevent damage to the plant. In this case, it is necessary to treat the bed with an insecticide. For example, Iskra Double effect (1 tablet per 10 liters of water, 1 liter of solution per 1 square meter).
Onion fly
The onion fly actively infects the plant in spring - in April-May. The main symptom is when the tips of the onion turn yellow first, and not the entire feather as a whole. If you dig up the plant, you can see that the bulb has rotted.
Control measures: Unfortunately, as is the case with most pests, it is easier to scare them away from the garden than to try to save already damaged plants. In the case of the onion fly, pollination of the row spacings with a mixture of tobacco dust and sunflower ash, taken in equal proportions, will help. Try Alatar from drugs. Affected plants are dug up and burned.
In addition, rows of onions can be alternated with rows of carrots - these plants repel each other's pests.
Onion lurker (weevil)
If the feathers of the onion turn yellow and passages are visible through the skin, the plant is eaten from the inside by the larvae of the onion lurker. These are legless yellowish-white caterpillars with a brown head, up to 0.7 cm long.
Control measures: If you notice beetles on the leaves, they can be collected to prevent egg laying in the feathers. From deterrent measures, it is also useful to mulch the ground around onion plantings with ash, mustard powder, ground black and red pepper. During the period of resettlement of beetles, plantings are treated with Alatar or Fufanon-Nova according to the instructions. The plants eaten by the larvae can only be burned.
Onion thrips
Onion (or tobacco) thrips are tiny, up to 1 mm long, but very dangerous pests of all kinds of garden, vegetable and ornamental crops. When damaged, whitish spots form on the leaves, which later merge, and the leaf fades.
Control measures: As a deterrent, onion planting is sprayed with an insecticide (Iskra, Konfidor Extra, etc.). Before planting, the bulbs are disinfected in hot water (immersed in water at 45 ° C for 10 minutes), and then washed in cold water. Damaged plants are burned.
Yellowing of seedlings
If this happened a short time after planting, then the reason why the leaves of the apple tree seedlings turn yellow, most likely, lies in the wrong choice of place or the deepening of the specimen.
In the first case, the development of the root system is hampered by a lack of oxygen, which arose as a result of the high moisture content of the lower layers of the soil.
Exceeding the planting depth by 10-15 cm is also a common reason why the leaves on the apple tree turn yellow.
Another reason for the yellowing of the seedling foliage is inappropriate soil composition, for example, as a result of high (alkaline) pH due to excess lime or fresh manure.
The leaves turn a pale yellow color, then fall off.
The disease is called chlorosis, and other causes include:
- Deficiency of iron salts, which is required for the synthesis of chlorophyll (green pigment).
- Freezing of roots after winter.
- Oxygen deficiency in the soil as a result of waterlogging.
Calathea: leaves dry around the edges, what to do
Why calathea leaves begin to curl and dry depends on several factors. Poor watering and low air humidity are among the main reasons. It is necessary to increase the volume of watering liquid and spray the flower periodically.
If these measures did not help to improve the condition of the plant, it is necessary to cut off the leaves that have begun to dry out and try to save the root system. Place the pot on moistened expanded clay and cover with a bag. When new shoots appear, the bag can be removed.
To prevent dryness of the tips of the leaves, it is necessary to monitor the humidity of the air.
Before answering the question of what to do if the leaves of the calathea are curled, it is necessary to establish the cause of the pathology. In most cases, the answer lies in the lack of moisture in the air around the flower. Ideally, the moisture percentage should be at least 90%. This is not easy to maintain, so it is recommended that you purchase a humidifier.
If it is not possible to buy such a device, it is necessary to spray the leaves with filtered and settled water every day. You cannot use ordinary tap liquid, since after it lime stains remain on the leaves, which are extremely difficult to remove in the future. This rule especially applies to calathea with velvety leaves.
If the leaf begins to dry out or curl into a tube, it must be removed from the plant in a timely manner. Lighting must be made diffused and soft.
Important! There can be different consequences from the action of direct sunlight. In addition to burns, drying of leaves, loss of color, falling off are common
If the tips of the leaves dry on the calathea flower, it is necessary to change the location of the flower. Such a move looks quite reasonable and often helps to save the shoots.
Leaves can be twisted not only due to improper care or disease. The peculiarity of the calathea is that all representatives of this species twist the leaf blades at night. This is normal and should pass during the day.
Calathea is a very elegant flower that will fit into any interior
Spots on calathea leaves, twisting and drying of the trunk, can occur for many reasons. Before treating the plant, it is necessary to accurately establish the source of the problem, otherwise there will be no positive result.
Pests
Pest insects often infect the host. The plant needs timely treatment, otherwise it will die.
Slugs
Pests are more likely to infect host varieties with thin leaves. As a rule, the defeat of the lower leaves begins first, if appropriate treatment measures are not taken, then damage to the upper leaves of the flower will begin.
It is possible to determine the damage to the plant by the presence of pests on the surface of the leaves of gray mucus. In addition, small holes are formed on the sheets.
Control methods:
sprinkle shellfish bait under the bushes of the plant - the Thunderstorm granular mixture (You can replace it with methyl aldehyde). In the evening, place thin strips of plywood under the hosts' bushes. Leave it overnight. In the morning, pick up the plywood, collect the slugs and destroy them.
Beetles and caterpillars
Insect pests can be detected immediately. "Bitten" leaves appear on the surface of the leaves, it is clear that someone is chewing on the plant. If you do not take the necessary measures, then beetles and caterpillars can destroy a small plant in a couple of days.
Control methods:
regularly spray the host with a special compound, the basis of which is karbofos or insecticide substances.
Deciduous nematodes
Small pests actively reproduce in the leaves. Untimely processing of the plant can cause the multiplication of deciduous nematodes in huge numbers. The damage to the plant can be determined by the following sign: nematodes, in the process of moving from the ground to the surface of the plant, leave a brown stripe (course).
Control methods:
- if the plant is affected by deciduous nematodes, then it must be urgently destroyed by burning;
- the soil in which the affected bush grew is treated with a disinfectant.
Rodents
In the spring-summer season, the rhizomes of plants that are located close to the surface of the soil can be affected by rodents. They use the root system as food. In winter, rodents like to destroy plants that are covered with mulch.
Control methods:
scatter poisonous bait for rodents near the plant.
Prevention of destruction of hosts by rodents is planting a plant in a fine mesh container.
Hostas often lose their decorative appeal, not because of diseases or pests, but because of the wrong location of the bush. Exposure to open sunlight, insufficient watering, damage to the bush by low air temperatures - all these are the root causes of lethargy, lifelessness, and often the death of the plant.
conclusions
Hosta leaves can turn yellow and dry if:
- It grows under the open scorching sun. Remember hosta, shade-loving plant;
- Watering the plant occurs in the daytime. Moisture droplets can act as a lens, burning out the delicate tissue of the leaves. It is necessary to water the host early in the morning or late in the evening;
- She doesn't have enough moisture. Hosts absorb and evaporate large volumes of liquid, and therefore their soil must be constantly moist;
- The bush was frostbitten by sudden frosts;
- She's ill. And although the host is rarely sick, this circumstance must also be borne in mind.
By creating favorable conditions for the host, you will provide her with vitality and beautiful appearance. More moisture, less sun and your shrubs will become the pride of the garden.
