Care rules during the flowering period
In order for the fuchsia to bloom, it is pinched and cut off. 6-8 weeks after spring pinches, the bush becomes a true decoration of the room. If you want the plant to be covered with flowers at least all summer, you need to continue to cut off the flowering branches and pinch the young ones. If the old sprouts are not cut, they will simply destroy the aesthetic impact of fuchsia as one of the most exquisite flowers in the world.
Important! Flowers are formed only on new shoots. The amount of fertilizers applied decreases with the onset of flowering, but does not stop, since large energy costs are required not only for the development of buds, but also for the growth of stems
The amount of fertilizer applied with the onset of flowering decreases, but does not stop, since large energy costs are required not only for the development of buds, but also for the growth of stems.
Causes of the problem
There is no single correct answer how to make hippeastrum or fuchsia bloom. The source of problems is always identified first, and then all forces are directed to it. This is the only way to effectively and quickly solve the task. As for the lack of flowers on fuchsia, the reasons can be divided into 2 categories. The first will include those that are carried out "here and now" (their correction may lead to flowering this year), and the second - those that once were (it will take a long time to correct, so the flowers will bloom at least in year). So, fuchsia does not bloom - the causes of the problem.
Known short-term bugs:
Bad light. Lack of light will lead to pallor of the shoots, which will begin to stretch in length. A weakened plant is unlikely to be a good base for blooming flowers.
Heatwave. When the question arises why crocuses or fuchsias do not bloom, you should think about the temperature around the plant.
Lack of fertilizers. The lack of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or their lack leads to poor flowering, the formation of small flowers and even to the refusal of fuchsia to release buds. But an oversupply of feeding is also harmful: the plant ages prematurely, the flowering period is significantly reduced, and the petals fade and lose their color brightness.
Problems with the amount of watering. Excess moisture, just like lack of moisture, leads to problems with the plant as a whole. Under conditions of improper watering, fuchsia will definitely not bloom.
The presence of pests or diseases. One cannot discount the fact that in the conditions of survival, there is practically no strength left for beauty.
Long-term misses:
1. Unsuitable wintering conditions.
An increase in ambient temperature above +10 degrees can lead to continued growth. As a result, weakened long shoots will simply not be able to release flowers by spring.
2. Errors in pinching and late pruning.
It is very important in autumn and spring to cut out all broken, weakened and, of course, diseased branches. After pruning, lateral dormant buds begin to grow. It is important to do the pinching of the plant after 2-3 pairs of leaves (depending on the shape that you want to give fuchsia)
It is important to start pinching the plant after 2-3 pairs of leaves (depending on the shape you want to give fuchsia). Here's a very interesting point: pinching helps you take control of the bloom in your own hands.
The last pinching of fuchsia, according to the rules, will lead to flowering of non-double varieties in 60 days, terry varieties in 80, semi-double varieties in 70. If Triphylls and several other similar types of shrubs are located on the windowsill, then flowering should be expected in exactly 3 months
Here's a very interesting point: pinching helps you take control of the bloom in your own hands. The last pinching of fuchsia, according to the rules, will lead to flowering of non-double varieties in 60 days, double varieties in 80, semi-double varieties in 70. If Triphyllas and several other similar types of shrubs are located on the windowsill, then flowering should be expected in exactly 3 months.
3. Choosing too large a container for a particular plant.
At first, fuchsia should braid with roots the entire lump of substrate inside the flowerpot, and only then it will switch to the flowering process. In addition, in a large pot, the roots are often damaged, which suffer from excess moisture.
4. Overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers.
On the one hand, an excess of feeding leads to rapid growth, and on the other hand, it has a depressing effect on the plant. The excess green mass of foliage drowns out the need for shoots to release buds.
5. Bad substrate.
Light soil leads to depletion and overdrying of the earthen coma, due to which the roots of the plant begin to stick around the inner walls of the container. This creates the problem of starvation and lack of water. The heavy substrate inhibits the development of thin roots, which promptly deliver nutrients and water from the soil to the center of the stem. Fuchsia in such land ceases to receive water, moisture stagnation occurs and the main roots begin to rot.
6. The problem with the root system.
In addition to the above soil shortcomings, overheating, hypothermia, and also ignoring the rules for watering fuchsias lead to weakening of the roots.
7. A special grade.
Late flowering types of shrubs for laying buds should grow a long shoot with 5-6 internodes (or even more). Perhaps fuchsia simply has not yet had time to grow to the point when it's time to start flowering. Or, which is also likely, late pruning has canceled out the bud set for the current year.
How to identify and get rid of pests?
It is usually easy to identify pests if you observe your "green pet" regularly. Often, pests start on weak plants that are already affected by any diseases or pests. Often, pests move to fuchsias from neighboring plants, as is often the case with aphids, which are very often found on indoor plants.
It is easier to identify pests than any diseases, since caterpillars or other insects can always be seen even with the naked eye. However, questions may arise with the identification of pests that start in the roots.
Aphids on fuchsia: how to get rid
Sometimes aphids attack fuchsia bushes. The means of dealing with this small fly is to wipe the plant with a cotton swab dipped in medical alcohol, and then treat it with special insecticides. One of these drugs is Akelik. One ampoule of the product must be diluted in a liter of clean water. In order to completely remove aphids, the treatment procedure is carried out every three days.
Aphids on fuchsia
Whitefly control methods on fuchsia
In the summer heat, the windows of almost all apartments remain open, so the whitefly enters the living room. The whitefly is a very small butterfly that is difficult to see with the naked eye. She only needs a couple of hours - and the whitefly on fuchsia will lay its very small testicles. It is almost impossible to notice them, but the reaction of the flower is lightning fast. White midges appeared on fuchsia, what should I do?
Pests and diseases of tomatoes in the greenhouse
The leaves of the plant begin to become covered with small sticky droplets, the number of which increases daily, even if they are constantly removed. As soon as the first larvae begin to appear from the eggs, they immediately suck the juice from the leaves, which leads to their rapid wilt and death.
At the first manifestation of the whitefly, the plant must be thoroughly rinsed with running water and laundry soap.Especially carefully you need to wash the stem and the inside of the fuchsia leaves.
Important! When washing the plant using laundry soap, it is better to cover its roots with plastic wrap, since they categorically do not tolerate soapy water. After water procedures, the leaves and trunk of the plant are treated with chemicals, Angara is best suited
After water procedures, the leaves and trunk of the plant are treated with chemicals, Angara is best suited.
Fuchsia, worse than all indoor flowers, resists the attack of white midges. It will not be saved by ordinary folk remedies that are used to treat other flowers. In the case of fuchsia, only chemical agents will help, and even in tandem with a soapy bath.
After completely getting rid of the pest, the plant must be transplanted into a new ceramic pot with fresh soil. And only then can one begin the necessary work to restore the vitality of the flower.
Nematodes
Nematodes are quite dangerous worms that can infect the entire root system of a plant in a short time. Fuchsia roots are often affected by nematodes. Typical brownish-brown spots can be seen on the leaves. When affected by nematodes, the leaves begin to crumble, and the plant itself gradually withers. Often, by external signs in the early stages of the disease, it is almost impossible to determine it.
When the root system is damaged by such worms, the plant can only be helped by treatment and immediate transplantation.
Spider mite
If a cobweb, black dots and gray bloom appeared on the fuchsia foliage, then most likely the plant was struck by a spider mite. The leaves of the plant often curl from this parasite, but it will not be difficult to cure them.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are very easy to handle in most cases. Usually they are collected by hand, after which the plant is treated with a solution of soap or a special insecticide.
Fuchsia diseases
To proceed with the correct elimination of the problem, you need to establish the cause. Common options according to leading botanists include:
- the appearance of pests;
- bad light;
- lack of nutrients.
What to do if fuchsia leaves curl
The problem of reducing daylight hours is easily solved by organizing lighting in the winter with lamps, and in the summer the flower must be transferred to the most illuminated place, but exclude direct sunlight. From this, the leaves turn yellow.
In good light, leaf curling and yellowing indicate a lack of macro and micronutrients. Potassium, zinc, molybdenum are the main flower feeding in case of this problem. The sheet plate will tell you which element is missing.
Note! The leaves curl upward with a lack of zinc; inside - molybdenum. The shape of the leaves changes with a lack of minerals in general
Pests and parasites can cause leaf curling in a young plant. In the flower garden, the caterpillars undermine the roots and stems, the leaves wither and curl. Removing the caterpillars and treating them with insecticides will save the flower.
Aphids and nematodes can settle on the leaves. They are invisible because they bite into the leaf. Having lost the juices, the leaves curl. Control measures are the same as for whitefly. Preventive measures with insecticides will kill the clutch of insects in the early stages of reproduction.
Tips and tricks from experienced florists and gardeners
Before you start breeding roses, you need to decide on the type and variety. A correctly chosen seedling is of great importance.
When choosing seedlings in a store or on the market, be sure to pay attention to the shoots:
- green color;
- stems are strong and resilient;
- the bark should be intact, without folds, breaks and spots
Well-developed and healthy buds are a sign of quality rose seedlings. The leaves should be deep green on the inside and outside.
Attention! Seedlings of a high category have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from grafting. The high quality seedlings have a tag attached with information about the variety. This is worth paying attention to when choosing roses.
This is worth paying attention to when choosing roses. Experienced gardeners plant roses between early September and mid-October
But in cold regions, it is preferable to do spring plantings. When planted in autumn, immature roses, with an undeveloped root system, can freeze
Experienced gardeners plant roses between early September and mid-October. But in cold regions, it is preferable to do spring plantings. When planted in autumn, immature roses with an undeveloped root system may freeze.
The best soil for roses is slightly acidic or neutral. Roses take root deeply, so for planting seedlings, the hole must be prepared no smaller than 60 cm.
Before planting a flower, you should prepare it. Too long roots cut a little with sharp pruning shears, and remove all dry ones completely. A few hours before planting, the seedlings should be lowered into a bucket of water.
Important! The filamentous roots should never be touched. Fading inflorescences must be cut off without waiting for them to wither. This stimulates the bush to further bud formation.
This stimulates the bush to further bud formation.
Fading inflorescences must be cut off without waiting for them to wither. This stimulates the bush to further bud formation.
Rose bushes abundantly strewn with flowers will decorate any garden, will bring joy to a flower lover, his household and guests.
Buds do not open: reasons
This is also the case with fuchsia. It happens that the buds of fuchsia fall off without blooming, although the plant itself has a beautiful appearance. Many gardeners have a question why fuchsia buds fall off before they open. The thought arises that the rules of care were violated and, as a result, the plant did not receive the strength to bloom. The search for rescue options begins, where clarification of the causes of the problem plays an important role.
Home flora
The main reasons are the following:
- the plant does not receive enough light, or vice versa, an excess of lighting acts on it;
- the regime and order of feeding fuchsia is not respected. Fertilizers are delivered in the wrong growth period, in the wrong dosages;
- when leaving, the watering regime is violated;
- the pinching process is ignored;
- plant diseases are overlooked.
Plant watering requirements
Excessive watering disrupts gas exchange in the soil, provoking its acidification. A moldy crust forms on the surface. The root system is deficient in oxygen, the roots gradually rot, and the small roots quickly die off.
Proper adherence to watering rules will help to avoid fuchsia diseases. In the spring-autumn season, fuchsia needs good watering if the topsoil dries. In winter, watered in the morning, in moderation.
In the autumn period (October-November), watering is reduced until it is completely canceled. In the cold season, 1-2 waterings per month are enough for fuchsia.
When it's summer outside, the flower is watered in the evening. Due to morning watering, the roots soar in the heat in moist soil, deteriorate.
Important! The soil should be kept slightly moist and the leaves should be sprayed to cool. Florists equip the pot with a drainage system to prevent soil acidification
Florists equip the pot with a drainage system to prevent soil acidification.
For irrigation, use settled, soft water. Oxalic acid is used to soften.
How to determine the cause?
Incorrect lighting. You can understand that the plant does not have enough light by the pale green mass and long shoots. In this case, they will be weak, thin and bend under the weight of the litas. If there is a lot of light and direct sunlight falls on the flower, then burns will appear on the leaf plates - yellow (sometimes light brown) dry spots.
Incorrect feeding
Here it is worth paying attention to the state of fuchsia as a whole. Keep track of how long the shoot or leaf grows
New leaves should grow in 5-7 days. If this happens more slowly, then you should think about additional feeding of fuchsia. You also need to inspect the appearance of the plant. The greens should be rich in color, the leaves should be oily and juicy, and the buds should be large and bright. If the flowers and foliage are small and pale, this is a signal to growers about a lack of nutrients.
Poor watering regime. You can notice the lack of water immediately - the leaves go down, become soft. But with excessive watering it will be more difficult. Since at first this error in leaving does not manifest itself in any way. After all, the negative impact is only on the root system - it begins to rot. And only after the complete defeat of the roots begins the deterioration of the state of the ground part. If you closely monitor the development of fuchsia, you can see that it has stopped growing. At this time, it is recommended to remove the plant from the pot and examine its rhizomes for decay.
Topping. Signs of improper pinching - improper formation of the bush (for example, one side is actively growing, the other has completely stopped) or the slow development of the plant as a whole.
Diseases. It is not difficult to notice a disease on a plant. The first signs of the disease are the appearance of pigmentation on the lower and upper sides of the leaves, as well as plaque on their surface. Sometimes you can see rotting parts of fuchsia - it can be both shoots and stems, and foliage with buds.
