Decembrist: home care. 50 photos of the Decembrist

Description

The Schlumberger range is South America, in particular Brazil. Its wild relatives prefer moist tropical evergreen forests, where they lead an epiphytic lifestyle in symbiosis with other plants, attaching to the trunks or root system of trees. The Decembrist is a beautifully flowering, leafless, semi-shrub plant with a large number of segmented leaf-like flattened or trihedral leathery shoots with a fleshy texture, reaching a length of 0.5 m.When flowering, their tops are covered with monosymmetric flowers 5-8 cm in size with a multi-tiered corolla of a star-shaped shape, in which filaments strongly protruding forward.

Under natural conditions, due to the long tube of flowers in zygocactus, only tiny representatives of the hummingbird family and certain species of hawk moth (hummingbird butterflies) can cope with their pollination. The flowering period differs in length, as it can take 6 to 8 weeks for the buds to open. However, the beauty of blossoming flowers can be admired for a maximum of 4-5 days, since after this time they wither.

A Christmas tree is often mistaken for a hathiora - an indoor flower that is very similar to him and the closest relative. Previously, this plant was called ripsalidopsis, its modern scientific name is hatiora garner. People call it "Easter cactus" because the period of its flowering falls on for the spring.

The difference in structure between them is especially noticeable during the growing season. In representatives of the Schlumberger genus, during flowering, the apical part of the jointed shoots is covered with red-colored long-tubular, often asymmetrical flowers, while in the Ripsalidopsis the shape of the flowers is completely different - stellate or funnel-shaped, and they are formed not at the end, but throughout the segments.

What to do if the Decembrist does not bloom

So, we figured out when the Decembrist blooms. However, some florists never wait for the coveted inflorescences in the winter months. Why is this happening and how can you help the Christmas tree get bright and attractive bunches of flowers?

Among the reasons for the lack of flowers, experts distinguish low-quality (not meeting the requirements of the plant) soil, low air humidity, excessive shading, and lack of nutrients. All these factors need to be analyzed and eliminated.

Another question is how to "force" the Schlumberger to bloom at home?

You need to prepare in advance and follow these steps:

choose not too wide planting capacity (so that the flower is cramped);
do not put the pot in a too warm place - the optimum temperature is +16 degrees (flowering will be longer in a cool microclimate);
eliminate serious temperature drops;
put the pot with zygocactus in one place and refuse to move and turn it over (otherwise the buds will fall off);
carry out pruning (pinching) in advance and do not pick off the stems in October-November, otherwise you may not wait for the buds at all;
organize additional lighting in the room if there is a lack of sunlight in the autumn-winter period (you can put the pot next to the lighting fixture);
abandon top dressing in September, because otherwise the plant will form stems, not buds;
reduce the intensity of watering during the formation of buds (October-November), but when the plant blooms, the volume of water can be slightly increased, but very carefully.

All these recommendations will allow you to finish off the abundant flowering of the Decembrist.And, of course, it is necessary to follow the principles of care described above so that the zygocactus feels great not only during budding, but also throughout the year.

Pests and diseases of the Decembrist

Diseases

Zygocactus can suffer from fungal diseases, for example, from phytium, fusarium or phytophthora. The causative agents of these diseases can be in a poorly prepared substrate, from which they penetrate the flower, and the root collar of the plant is the first to be damaged. The affected bush becomes faded and has a grayish tint, and the segments begin to die off. As a result, the flower begins to fade even with systematic watering. In order to get rid of fusarium, the Decembrist is treated with a solution of a special fungicidal agent, and if it is affected by phytophthora and phytium, the bush is sprayed with Topaz, Maxim or Vitaros.

Harmful insects

The appearance of a rusty coating on the surface of the bush may indicate that a spider mite settled on it... It is a very small insect with a yellow, brown or pale red color that is almost impossible to see with the naked eye. A tick appears where very low air humidity is observed for a long time. To destroy such a pest, the bush is sprayed with Fitoverm, Aktellik or Neoron.

If you see white lumps between the stems that look like cotton wool, then this is a sure sign that mealybugs settled on the flower... To get rid of them, treat the bush with Aktara's solution.

Possible problems

With improper care with zygocactus, problems may arise, for example:

Withering of the bush. The wilting of a plant may be due to the fact that it is affected by phytium or late blight. Also, shoots can become lethargic due to root disease. If the trunk of the bush sways and becomes unstable, then this may be due to the fact that the roots of the flower have already died out as a result of hypothermia (it is too cold in the room or the bush was watered with very cold water). Also, the roots could die due to the fact that the pot overheated in the sun. A very high concentration fertilizer solution can also severely damage the root system. In this case, the Decembrist is immediately transplanted into a fresh soil mixture, otherwise the concentrated solution can completely burn the roots.
Lack of flowering. Zygocactus will not bloom until it senses that it is time to bloom. For this to happen, the flower needs to be provided with a full dormant period. To do this, from the last days of September to the end of November, the plant is transferred to a cold room, at this time it is not fed and watered very rarely and with a small amount of water (make sure that the lump of earth in the pot does not dry out). In the last days of November, move the Decembrist to a warm and well-lit place, and start watering it systematically. Rotate the bush regularly around its axis, thanks to this, all its sides will be evenly illuminated. After the buds appear, do not allow the clod of earth in the pot to dry out, and do not turn or move the bush to another place, otherwise all the buds may fly around it. If everything is done correctly, then the zygocactus will undoubtedly delight you with lush flowering.
Dying off and flying around segments. In some cases, the leaves of a seemingly perfect healthy bush may begin to die off and fall off. Most often, the dying off of the segments is due to the fact that a spider mite has settled on the bush. In the event that the pest was not found, then the "leaf fall" may be associated with a lack of nutrients (too poor substrate or very rare feeding). In this case, the bush needs to be fed 1-2 times on the leaf with a solution of fertilizers for epiphytic cacti, then it is added to the substrate.If, even after such feeding, the segments continue to fall, then the plant will have to be transplanted into fresh soil mixture. If the end segments fly around, then the reason for this may be excessively low air humidity or stress (a change in the environment, a sharp fluctuation in daily temperatures, an untimely transplant or a draft).

DECABRIST (to Schlumberger) why are the leaves falling? Growing problems and plant diseases!

Schlumberger care and reproduction at home by cuttings

The growing conditions for these plants are the exact opposite of the culture of "real" cacti, they coincide with the growing conditions for most common indoor plants.

When caring for Schlumberger at home, a flower needs loose nutritious soil, spacious shallow dishes, abundant watering, regular feeding (root and stem), spraying and washing, moderate (room) temperature almost all year round, moderate sunlight (direct sun is undesirable). Since it is very simple to provide such conditions in the house, the Decembrists became so widespread.

Reproduction of Schlumberger is carried out by cuttings (preferably from 2-3 segments), which are easily rooted at any time of the year in any wet substrate. To do this, the segments are separated at the very base (the cut site remains very narrow and heals easily), cutting off with a sharp instrument, breaking off or rotating around the longitudinal axis, but without tearing off the market! After a short drying, the cutting is placed without deepening, not the substrate and placed in a humid atmosphere (for example, under a jar).

Decembrist cuttings can take root even in water. Rooted cuttings are planted in a loose nutritious substrate. Decembrists of these species grow rapidly and often bloom in very small bushes from several segments. These young plants are especially decorative because of the contrast between the small stem and the relatively large flower.

With age, even with good care and proper breeding Schlumberger at home plants can lose their visual appeal due to corking of the trunk and main branches, combined with weak branching. Schlumberger Trunkata is more light-loving, and therefore, in conditions of one-sided illumination, its bushes often tilt to one side. The latter can be easily avoided by occasionally (but not the budding period!) Turning the pot with the other side to the light. When caring for a Schlumberger cactus, the density and decorativeness of the crown must be regulated by forming plants.

It is recommended to constantly shorten non-branching shoots. In general, frequent pruning of Schlumberger bushes promotes the formation of young shoots and more abundant flowering (since the buds usually appear on young segments).

During the flowering period, the Decembrists are very elegant, but this beauty lasts only about a month. If you pollinate the flowers of two Schlumberger, the fruits will be tied, which will decorate the bushes for more than a year.

The Decembrist with bright pink fruits is somewhat reminiscent of a decorated Christmas tree. These plants look unusual in bloom simultaneously with the fruits of the previous flowering.

Here you can see a photo of caring for Schlumberger at home:

Diseases and pests

Decembrist is quite resistant to attacks of harmful insects. Still, some problems do happen if you don't keep an eye on the green pet. What pests are considered the most dangerous and how to deal with them in order to prolong the life of a zygocactus?

Spider mite. These small rounded creatures of yellow and reddish color are visible even to the naked eye. Their existence can be suspected by the lightened spots on the surface of the sheet plate. After a while, the affected leaves fall off. You can get rid of parasites with the help of Neoron, Fitoverm.
Mealybug. A tiny insect with a pinkish body.They secrete a whitish mucus, as a result of which the leaves of the plant seem to be sprinkled with flour. The appearance of a pest leads to drying of the leaves and dropping of the buds. They destroy the worm with the help of Aktara, Confidor.
Shield. This small insect that sucks out plant juices is the most dangerous pest of the Decembrist. If the necessary actions are not taken in time, then the flower can die. To destroy the pest, it is necessary to process the stems and leaves with cotton pads, previously soaked in Karbofos. Additionally, you need to reduce the humidity in the room.

The most common disease of the Decembrist is fungal fusarium. Pathogenic microorganisms penetrate the cactus through the soil and scratches, which leads to decay of the roots. You can defeat the disease with the help of fungicides, for example, Bayleton.

Another common pathology is bacterial late blight, which manifests itself in the form of a dark speck, which subsequently captures all new areas of the stem. It will not be possible to cure the affected areas, therefore it is easier and more correct to remove the diseased processes so that the infection does not spread further.

Features of caring for a Decembrist at home

Schlumberger does not like direct rays of the sun, so it is better to place him in the shade. In saturated light, the zygocactus will turn yellow and begin to wither.

The suitable temperature regime for the existence of the Decembrist varies from 2 ° C to 38 ° C. But the plant can grow more intensively at a temperature of 18-30 ° C. Air humidity should be moderate.

We saw a slightly dried top of the earth, you can safely water the flower. Drainage will rid it of excess moisture and prevent excess moisture.

Schlumberger people are not demanding in terms of feeding. Enough 1 p. per week if the plant is greenhouse. Growing a plant at home is enough 2-4 p. in year. As a fertilizer, a high-quality mixture of nitrogen with potassium, phosphorus and other substances is used, soluble in water and balanced in the ratio 20:20:20, respectively.

Measured moistening will saturate the soil with the necessary substances. A month before the bud buds appear, feeding should be stopped.

To improve the shape of the Decembrist, you need to pinch off the regrown parts of the stems after flowering. Choose a place to pinch, pinch the bottom with two fingers, and pinch off the top in a circular motion. It will turn out to separate two parts of the stem at once. Don't cut it off!

Pinching will do two things:

the flower will bloom even more;
the stems will become powerful and flowering.

Correct content and caring for the Decembrists will provide many years of life and prosperity. Selected cases prove that zygocactus can grow and bloom for 20 years or more. The trunk becomes woody during this period.

It is better to graft the Decembrist on a peyreskia, in which the top is cut off, a crevice is made in the remaining part of the top and a process with 2-3 Schlumberger segments is placed there. Chip them together and wrap the grafted place with a thread of wool. You need to remove it when the plants grow together and all the leaves from the peiresque are removed.

The crown of the Decembrist developed over time must be tied to the base in order to avoid breaking off. For planting the flowers of the Decembrists, a soil of sod, leaves and sand (1: 1: 1) is favorable; an equivalent addition of peat or cultivation only in peat is possible.

Transplant and breeding methods

Decembrist is recommended to be replanted every 3-5 years. Fresh soil and a larger container will improve plant health. Reproduction of zygocactus is possible by cuttings, grafting or seeds. Cuttings about 4 segments long are placed in the ground and covered with an impromptu greenhouse during rooting. The second and third methods are laborious, and therefore are rarely used by flower growers.

Timing

The spring period is suitable for reproduction and transplantation of the Decembrist. At this time, the growth of shoots is activated, new segments appear on the plant.Transplantation of young zygocactus is carried out every 2-3 years, and adults - at least 1 time in 5 years.

Selection and preparation of soil and pot

For transplanting, you do not need to take a large and deep pot, as this will provoke root growth to the detriment of flowering. It is recommended to use a container with a wide mouth and shallow depth. There should be holes and a drainage layer in the bottom of the pot.

Any soil mixed specifically for growing cacti is suitable for the Decembrist. Hand-prepared soil should be loose and nutritious enough. The soil must be pretreated to get rid of bacteria and fungal spores. To do this, it is enough to place the soil in an oven with a temperature of 200 ° C for a quarter of an hour or in a freezer for 24 hours.

How to transplant using the transshipment method

After preparing a new pot and suitable soil, replanting the Decembrist is quite simple. The technology of the plant transshipment method involves:

Place drainage on the bottom of the pot with a layer of at least 2 cm.
Add a small amount of new soil.
Remove the zygocactus from the old container and lightly shake the soil from the roots.
Place the Decembrist in a pot of soil.
Cover the space around the roots with potting soil.
On the 3rd day, pour warm water.

How to plant

For reproduction, a part of a plant with a length of 3-4 segments is unscrewed clockwise or carefully cut at the junction. When planting a densely growing Decembrist, you need to make sure that the shoots have a sufficient number of roots. Germination can be carried out directly in the soil or by placing the shoots in water.

In water

The method of obtaining the root system in water involves:

Separate the stalk of the Decembrist.
Leave the planting material to dry for 3 hours.
Place the lower segment in water at room temperature with the addition of activated carbon.
Change the fluid daily until roots appear.

In the ground

Germination of the Decembrist in the soil has the following sequence:

Prepare small containers with suitable moist soil.
Make indentations up to 3 cm.
Place the dried cuttings in the ground on a third of the lower segment.
You can cover containers to maintain moisture and ventilate daily.

keep the room temperature within 17 ° C in winter and 24 ° C in summer;
provide an average level of soil and air moisture;
spray the shoots weekly in the summer;
place the plant in partial shade.

Signs and superstitions associated with the Decembrist

Many people are superstitious and tend to associate problems in their lives with certain events, for example, with the flowering of plants. So, signs on the Decembrist flower were also found. Such superstitions can be positive and negative.

Positive signs:

the cactus bloomed on time (in December), therefore, everything will be fine in relations with relatives;
the buds opened at the beginning of winter - the coming year will bring a lot of positive emotions;
flowers appeared a little prematurely - a new acquaintance is coming soon;
flowering began a month before the usual time - wait for an inheritance, marriage or the birth of a child.

Negative signs:

the Christmas tree bloomed in mid-spring - superstitious people advise to prepare for such unpleasant events as lack of money, difficulties at work, illness or death of relatives;
finding a flower in the house - constant quarrels in the family, divorce from her husband, a young girl will not be able to find her chosen one (some believe that the Decembrist is a “muzhegon”).

There are no objective reasons that would limit or exclude the presence of Schlumberger in the house. The plant is not poisonous, does not have thorns (unlike other cacti), does not harm children and fluffy pets. Therefore, do not pay attention to various superstitions!

How to take care of the Decembrist at home?

Agricultural technology of cultivation Decembrist at home not difficult, but requiring certain knowledge. They relate to the rules for watering, feeding, protecting against diseases and pests, and other actions. Let's get acquainted with these rules in more detail.

Watering the Decembrist

It is necessary to water the Decembrist regularly, but very confidently, since the plant does not like both waterlogging of the soil and its drying out. During the flowering period, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, and after its completion and until spring, the amount of watering should be reduced. In summer, the Decembrist will need to be watered only if the soil is excessively dry. Watering remains rare in the autumn, until the formation of flower buds.

Watering must be carried out with settled water at room temperature. Hot, sultry days Decembrist can be sprayed, even washed in the shower. The only condition is to cover the ground so that water does not stagnate.

Location. Lighting

The best place to grow Decembrist is east or west windows. If the pot is placed on the sill of the south window, then the bright sun rays can burn its shoots, which can cause the death of the plant.

It is important to protect the flower from ultraviolet rays. In the summer, the flower pot can be taken out into the fresh air, but put in partial shade.

Temperature regime

Decembrist is an unpretentious plant. It can withstand temperature drops, survive temperatures from + 2 ° C to + 37 ° C. However, one should not conduct experiments on the plant, create stressful situations for it.

For Decembrist, the temperature is comfortable within the range of + 18 ° C ... + 25 ° C. In autumn, when the process of bud formation begins, the plant should create cool conditions: the optimal room temperature is from + 12 ° C to + 16 ° C. During the flowering period, the best temperature for the Decembrist is + 20 ° C.

Soil mixture

You can prepare the substrate for growing the Decembrist yourself. To do this, you need to mix peat, nutrient soil and sand in a 2: 1: 1 ratio. The soil mixture must be loose, light and nutritious. Some growers recommend adding charcoal or vermiculite to the resulting soil mixture, which will improve the air and moisture permeability of the soil.

Top dressing

In order for the flowering to be long-lasting, abundant, the Decembrist must be fed. For this, it is better to use cactus fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus compounds in the proportions necessary for the plant. From March to August, the Decembrist begins to intensively grow the stems, during this period it is recommended to feed the plant 2 times a month with an interval of 15 days. The dosage should be 2 times less than what is written in the instructions.

Transfer

Once every 3-4 years, the Decembrist needs a transplant. It is necessary to carry out this procedure after the plant completes its flowering. This usually happens in February. For transplanting, a wide low pot is taken, equipped with a drainage layer of rubble or pebbles. The pot is filled with soil mixture, the composition of which is described above.

Pruning

To make the Decembrist bush look neat, it is recommended to cut it off. This operation must be carried out in June. The stems that grow crookedly and also have an ugly appearance are removed. Such pruning helps to rejuvenate the bush. Sanitary pruning, which removes diseased or broken stems, can be done at any time.

Pests and diseases affecting the Decembrist

Under unfavorable conditions, a spider mite can settle on the Decembrist. A sign of such a defeat will be a plaque on the leaves of a rusty hue. If small white lumps resembling cotton wool appear on the foliage, this means that the Decembrist is attacked by a mealybug. Pest control should be done with insecticide solutions designed to destroy these types of insects.

In addition to harmful insects, the Decembrist can be affected by fungal diseases. These are fusarium, late blight, phytium. Diseased plants become lethargic, foliage turns pale. In this case, the pot with the Decembrist must be set aside from other plants so that they do not get infected from it, all affected areas are removed, when infected with late blight, when the root system is affected, the soil mixture is renewed, and the pot is disinfected. After that, the diseased bush is treated with a systemic or contact fungicide, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Maxim or Vitaros. You can use Bordeaux mixture.

Flower yellow Decembrist

Reproduction of the Decembrist (Schlumberger)

The easiest and most reliable way to propagate the Decembrist is by cuttings. Air roots often appear at the junction of the stem segments

These parts of the plant should be considered when choosing a material for propagation.

A part of 7-10 cm is separated from the selected strong healthy stem.

You can root the cutting in water and plant it when the roots grow at least 3 cm.

When rooting immediately in the ground, the cutting is pre-dried (1-2 days), buried in a prepared pot of soil and covered with a jar to create greenhouse conditions. The pot is placed in a moderately bright place with a temperature of + 20 ° - + 22 °. Water as needed, ventilate daily. The formed condensate from the walls of the can is promptly removed.

Rooting takes place within a month. The emerging young leaves testify to successful rooting. After that, the plant is gradually accustomed to "freedom", day by day increasing the airing time.

Why do the buds of Schlumberger fall and what to do if the Decembrist plant does not bloom?

Although the Schlumberger people are undemanding in culture, there are still problems with them. The main ones are the loss of segments and buds, as well as the lack of flowering. Why do Schlumberger's buds and segments fall off even with good care? The main reasons are red tick infection and root death. It is sometimes believed that the segments and buds are crumbling from lack of moisture, and begin to water such a plant abundantly. This is not true. Even with strong drying, the Decembrist will rather wither than start dropping segments. Therefore, if the segments fall off profusely, they must be carefully examined: if the base is yellowish, with small rusty specks, the tick is harmful! He himself can be seen, especially through a magnifying glass. With severe infestation, these tiny pests on the surface of the plant are numerous. If neither a tick nor traces of its activity are found, check how firmly the plant holds in the ground. Swinging means something is wrong with the roots. The best solution is to have an emergency transplant.

Look at the photo - in Schlumberger (Decembrists), like most other epiphytic cacti, the root system is very weak:

Therefore, the roots easily rot or die off in case of any deviations in the regime (hypothermia or overheating; drying out; flooding; souring of the substrate; burn with concentrated fertilizer; pest damage). If during transplanting it is clear that the roots are unhealthy, the root system must be cleaned of soil and dead roots, rinsed with hot water, dried and planted again in a fresh mixture

The first time after this, the plant is watered carefully, often sprayed and kept in a humid atmosphere (in a greenhouse or under a plastic cap). If the roots are healthy, then during the care and reproduction of Schlumberger, the usual transplant will benefit the plant.

This procedure is well combined with the formation of the crown.

The fall of segments and buds can also be caused by stress due to a sharp change in conditions of detention (for example, if a plant that has stood in the shade for a long time is immediately exposed to the open sun). Physiological disorders associated with a lack of any elements can also lead to shedding of segments and buds.Finally, the Decembrists rarely, but there are diseases caused by microorganisms. They appear in various spots or drying out of young shoots, due to which the affected segments also fall off. When caring for a Schlumberger cactus, it should be borne in mind that a small number of segments fall off even in healthy, normally developing plants - as a result of the natural formation of the crown. The fall of some of the buds can also be normal in the case when there are too many buds and the plant simply cannot produce so many flowers. Violation of the optimal care regimen during the flowering period - too low temperature, insufficient watering, rearrangement of the plant - can also lead to the loss of some of the buds, including large and completely colored ones. It happens that the buds on the Decembrist (more often on varietal specimens of Schlumberger Trunkata) appear again in the spring. The fall of such "untimely" buds is obviously normal.

Why doesn't Schlumberger bloom at all or gives very few flowers? It means that something is wrong in the conditions of detention. The main possible causes are lack of nutrients and light. If the plant has not been transplanted for many years (or is not watered often enough), if it stands somewhere in a dark corner, where natural light does not reach at all, then you cannot count on flowering. Other reasons may be lack of any nutrients or pests. Correct cultivation, periodic watering, root and foliar feeding with complex fertilizers, preventive treatment with fungicides guarantee normal growth and flowering of the Decembrist. Another condition that favors flowering is a short dormant period in late summer (August-September) with a reduction in watering. The level of watering is resumed when conical buds become visible at the ends of the segments.

Common problems

* If you find brown spots on the leaves, the plant is affected by the scabbard.

*If the plant stubbornly does not want to bloomthe room temperature is probably below 10 degrees.

*If Decembrist dropped the upper segments of the shoots or the buds themselves - most likely, the plant has a drought, or vice versa, waterlogging of the soil, as well as a change in place during the ovary of the plant. It can also happen if the plant is attacked by pests.

* If you find pale and sluggish shoots in a plant, then the probable cause is irregular watering, too active sun and pests.

* On the shoots of the plant, you saw light spots - the plant is affected by an infection or it is an excess of light.

Hyacinth: how take care of a flower at home

Are the leaves reddened?

This is from the wrong conditions of detention. Stem segments turn red, as a rule, due to improper plant feeding, due to very bright light and excessive watering. Due to these factors, the plant may even die.

It is recommended to transplant the flower and create optimal comfortable conditions for it. Often, red leaves can mean that the flower is frozen. Move the plant to a warm place and you will notice that it begins to look healthy.

Are the leaves withering?

What needs to be done if you noticedthat the leaves of the plant began to wither?

This could happen if the plant began to wilt due to insufficient watering or hypothermia. This could be due to an oversupply of fertilizer in the soil or overheating under the sun.

Knowing the listed factors, it is necessary to identify the most suitable one in your case.

If the plant withers, and its shoots, moreover, began to fade and lose turgor, then the flower is affected by a fungal disease. In this case, you need to process the plant and transplant it into new soil.