Planting lilies in open ground (rules and planting scheme)
Front planting seedlings in open ground pick a place to grow them meticulously. It should be sunny (in the worst case, in partial shade) and sheltered from the wind. Dig up the soil and remove any remaining roots from other plants. If necessary, get rid of weeds and too tall, but already faded and old plants. Otherwise, they will create shade that will prevent the lilies from growing.
Landing algorithm lilies in open ground:
- before planting, immerse each bulb in a 0.2% solution of Maxim Dachnik dressing agent for 20 minutes, and then in a growth stimulator for 45-60 minutes;
- remove dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm;
- dig a hole for each plant, the depth of which is equal to three times the diameter of the bulb;
- the planting interval also depends on the variety and amount of planting material. Leave a margin of 15-20 cm between lilies of low-growing varieties, and 25-30 cm between tall ones.
But what happens to the shallow-planted bulbs is that stem roots appear on them.
You can plant lilies according to one of three schemes:
- single-line (ribbon) - keep the distance between the lilies 5-15 cm in one row and 50 cm between the "lines";
- two-line (for medium-sized lilies) - leave 15-25 cm between the bulbs, 25 cm between the lines, and 70 cm between the adjacent ribbons (consisting of two lines);
- three-line (for undersized lilies) - between the bulbs 10-15 cm, between the lines - 25 cm, between the ribbons - 70 cm each.
Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals
Today lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and caring for the Urals and Siberia is not much different from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.
A feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is their shelter for the winter. The beds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm.Outstanding lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered plastic wrap or agrofibre to keep the soil dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.
The lily shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and do not freeze during late frosts. If, nevertheless, the lilies have sprouted, and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.
Reproduction
Giant lilies can grow without transplanting for 5-7 years. When the bulb ages, the flowers become smaller, the stems grow low. Therefore, in order to preserve the plant variety you like, it must be propagated. There are many ways to accomplish this task.
Daughter bulbs
This is the simplest breeding method that every lily lover probably used. After flowering, it is necessary to dig out the bush, separate the bulbs from the mother plant and immediately plant them in the prepared place. Young plants will bloom in the second year after planting. If the daughter bulbs are too small, then it is better to plant them in a separate growing area so that they do not get lost in the flower garden.
By dividing the nest
This method is similar to the previous one. If instead of one stem, several grow from the rhizome of the lily, then you need to dig up the plant, divide the nest into separate adult bulbs and plant them in a permanent place. By doing this in the fall, next summer you will already have flowering plant specimens.
Scales
This breeding option is not difficult, but the flowering of plants will have to wait up to 5 years. It consists in separating the scales from the mother bulb (no more than 5 pieces) and planting them in moist peat in containers. The scales should be no more than half submerged in the ground. Then you need to make a greenhouse, a simple plastic bag is suitable for this. After about a month, or maybe even earlier, small bulbs with roots are formed on the scales, up to 5 pieces on each scale.
Stem cuttings
This method is used when breeding especially valuable varieties of lilies, which practically do not give daughter bulbs and do not form nests. In the spring, when the buds have not yet formed, it is necessary to cut the stem of the lily and divide it into cuttings 8-10 centimeters long. Then, at an angle, plant in the ground with the addition of peat and sand, shade from the sun. After 5-7 weeks, bulbs will appear in the sinuses. When they grow up a little, they can be planted for growing in special containers or on a separate bed in open ground.
Seeds
This method is only good for those who like to experiment. Plants grown from seeds do not retain varietal characteristics, so you definitely won't grow a lily tree. Seeds should be sown in light soil at the end of winter. Freshly picked ones sprout well. Plant young plants for growing in a separate bed. OT hybrids will bloom 8-10 years after sowing.
Alstroemeria: views, photos
Gardeners love to grow alstroemeria species, these are: psittacina, haematantha, nana, brasiliensis, aurea, aurantiaca and others. In the flower garden, you can meet hybrids and varieties of this culture. The varieties presented below are most popular among flower growers:
Alstroemeria Alicia
Alstroemeria Alicia
This hybrid has white or pink flowers. Blooms from June to September. Grows in a bush. In appearance looks like a rose or chrysanthemum. The plant is planted at a distance of 30 cm, and planted in the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. Well-lit places are chosen for planting a flower.
Alstroemeria Beauty
Alstroemeria Beauty
Altromeria, a photo of this species is presented above, grows in height up to 1.3-1.7 m. The shoots of the flower are straight and strong. Flowers have a lilac or purple hue. The plant blooms in spring and again in early autumn.
Harmony)
Alstroemeria harmony
The bush is high, about 1.6 m. The stems are powerful. It blooms in April – June, again in September, and has time to bloom before the onset of frost. The color of the flowers is bronze, on the petals there is a distinct pattern of black strokes.
Alstroemeria Canaria
Alstroemeria Canaria
It grows up to 1.5 m in height, the shoots are thick. It blooms in May – June, again in September and fades before the first frost. The color of the flowers is canary yellow, the surfaces of the petals are decorated with small specks.
Alstroemeria King Cardinal
Alstroemeria King Cardinal
The height of the bushes is 1.5 m, the peduncles are weak. The color of the flowers is scarlet. Red alstroemeria grows poorly with a lack of light, and the stems can lie down. Flowering lasts from spring to autumn. The flowers are like an orchid.
Alstroemeria Regina
Alstroemeria Regina
A very popular hybrid. Leaves are dark green, lanceolate. The color of the funnel-shaped flowers is pink, and there are brown streaks on the surface of the petals. Alstroemeria pink has an umbellate racemose inflorescence of 10-15 flowers. The plant blooms in late June and blooms until September.
Alstroemeria White Wings
Alstroemeria White Wings
The height of the bush is 2 m, powerful shoots. The leaves are large. The flowers are white, attractive in shape. Alstroemeria is white throughout the summer period with a break of several weeks in July – August. Suitable for cutting alstroemeria is white.
Alstroemeria virginia
Alstroemeria virginia
The height of the bush is about 0.7 m. Powerful stems are decorated with large white flowers. The edge of the flower petals is wavy. Blooms from June until the first frost. One of the largest varieties.
Alstroemeria Orange Queen
Alstroemeria Orange Queen
Decorative perennial flower. The height of the plant is about 0.7 m. The color of the flowers is apricot, and on the surface of the petals there are specks of brown color. This variety is planted not only in the garden, but also indoors, in order to make the interior bright. Orange alstroemeria is a thermophilic plant and in winter it requires shelter from the cold. The variety is unpretentious. can grow on any soil, under the bright sun and in the shade.
Alstroemeria is a garden decoration. And if you want to add an interesting flavor to your flower bed, then this flower should not be discounted.
Alstroemeria in the ground: care
For alstroemeria, a site should be prepared that is reliably protected from strong winds and drafts. The sun should fall here in the morning and evening, after 4 pm. Bush alstroemeria is afraid of the scorching rays of the sun. Because of this, it must be planted in the shade of trees or shrubs.
Alstroemeria: soil
Alstroemeria prefers loose soil, it should pass water well and be nutritious. It should be slightly acidic or neutral. Sandy or clay soils are best suited for planting such a flower. If the soil is heavy, then the day before planting, they dig up the earth with the introduction of a baking powder, which can be leaf humus, humus, and high-moor peat.
Transplanting
Seedlings are planted in the usual way. A distance of 0.3 to 0.5 m is left between the bushes. The depth of the planting pit should be 0.25–0.35 m. Before transplanting, it should be borne in mind that the root of the plant should fit freely in the hole, along with a lump of earth. The larger the variety, the greater the distance between the holes should be.
Drainage is laid at the bottom of the hole; it can be a handful of small expanded clay or gravel. Then a layer of compost with a thickness of 70-80 mm is placed in the hole. After that, the plant is transferred along with a lump of earth or planted directly in a peat pot, if the seedling was grown in it. The voids are filled with soil. The surface of the soil around the bushes is compacted. After planting, the plant is watered.
In the future, alstroemeria in the garden is watered in a timely manner, periodically fed, syrniki are weeded and the soil surface around the bushes is loosened.
In addition, the plant must be examined for pests and all kinds of diseases. It is necessary to prepare it for wintering. It is best to mulch the soil around the bush. Weeding and loosening of the soil surface can be carried out through the mulch layer without removing it.
Alstroemeria: temperature
Alstroemeria grows best in the garden at temperatures of 23 ° C or more. The bushes begin to actively grow the root system, and then they start growing and bloom.
During the flowering period, you need to pick off wilted flowers and thin out the bushes if they become too thick. When thinning alstroemeria, thin, weakened and growing inside the bush stems.
Alstroemeria: watering
Water the plant sparingly, as needed. If it rains from time to time, then watering is carried out once a week. During the dry season, alstroemeria is watered twice a week. The surface of the soil must be constantly damp.
Alstroemeria: top dressing
In order for the greenery of the bushes to have a rich color, and the flowering to be intense, alstroemeria must be fertilized 3 times a month. Complex fertilizers for flowering plants are suitable for feeding. In the initial phase of growth, the plant needs a large amount of nitrogen, and for the formation of buds and active flowering, alstroemeria needs phosphorus. From time to time, wood ash should be scattered under the bushes.
Combination with other colors
Low varieties of culture are often used to decorate walking paths, flower beds. Low-growing varieties grown in pots are taken out into the garden during the summer. They are placed near resting places, in open gazebos. High alstroemerias become a spectacular backdrop for other flowering and just green crops.
In gardens, alstroemeria is often placed next to roses. These flowers are also in bouquets. They look luxurious together, emphasizing the dignity of each other.An expressive combination is obtained with chrysanthemums, gerberas, irises. Another successful partner for culture is eustoma.
The combination of shades can be very different. Basically, white is combined with pink, red, purple, blue. Combinations of red and orange look great. A romantic bouquet can be made of pink and red flowers.
For information on how to plant alstroemeria in the ground, see the video below.
Diseases and pests
The culture can be infected with a fungal infection. This usually happens with excessive watering. The most common ailments are root rot and late blight. In the first case, the foliage begins to turn yellow. You may also notice rotting at the base of the stem. In the second case, the foliage loses its richness of color and withers.
In both situations, it is necessary to treat all parts of the flower (including the root system) with fungicides. For this, the culture is dug up. However, treatment can only help at the initial stage of the disease. If the situation is neglected, the plant will have to be destroyed.
As for pests, there are several dangers for alstroemeria. Spider mite presence can be identified by light spots and cobwebs on the green part of the plant. In case of such a nuisance, the flower is treated with acaricides 3 times. There is a ten-day gap between procedures.
Thrips are fought with the help of the drug Confidor. You can determine the presence of a problem by the silvery marks on the foliage. Prevention of slug attacks is carried out by scattering crushed egg shells or tree bark around the flower.
Varieties of oriental lilies
This includes varieties and garden forms obtained from golden lilies (Lilium auratum), pretty (Lilium speciosum), Japanese (Lilium japonicum) and reddish (Lilium rubellum), as well as some of their hybrids with the Henry lily.
There are four subsections depending on the shape of the flower:
with tubular flowers - ‘Little Fairies’, ‘Viceroy’.
with cupped flowers - 'Africa', 'Dusky', Oriental Hybrids, Cameo Hybrids, 'Lavander Lady', Betty '(' Betty '),' Red Band ',' Crimson Beauty 'and other hybrids.
with wide-open flowers - this includes de Graf's numerous hybrids - Imperial Gold, Imperial Silver, Imperial Pink; Jillion Wallace, ‘Aurora’ and others.
with petals bent back - "Allegro", "Potomac", "Evening", "Enterprise" and others.
Oriental hybrids exude a spicy scent of expensive perfume!
In different varieties, the aroma can be either strong or slightly perceptible (in some new varieties)! The aroma intensifies especially in the evening - therefore, forcing plants should not be placed in bedrooms!
