Indoor plant aphelandra protruding: description, care, reproduction and flower diseases

How to care for Afelandra at home

Home flowers afelandra care and reproduction

As a representative of the tropical flora, Afenandra loves warmth and moisture. Drafts are categorically contraindicated. Violation of the conditions of keeping the plant leads to a painful appearance. Care depends on the season.

Spring and summer

In spring and summer, it is necessary to water well (1-2 times a week), spray often, apply fertilizers once every 1-2 weeks, lighting is required bright and diffused

It is important not to waterlogging the soil when watering: excess water is drained from the pan. The air temperature in spring should be about 20 ° С, in summer keep the temperature within 22-25 ° С

Autumn and winter

In the fall and winter, water sparingly (while waiting for the ground to dry on top), provide additional artificial lighting. In autumn, fertilizers are applied once every 1-2 weeks, and in winter, fertilizing is not needed. Maintain the temperature regime in autumn within the range of 18–20 ° С; in winter, the maximum temperature decrease to 16 ° С is possible.

Watering

The flower needs regular watering, especially in the heat. Avoid stagnant water in the pot and sump to prevent decay processes. In the warm season, maintain constant soil moisture, and with the onset of cold weather, it is enough to water as the soil dries. In the summer, spray the leaves several times a day every day; in winter, spraying once every 2-3 days is enough.

Top dressing

Afelandra actively grows, quickly consumes the smell of essential trace elements

It is important to fertilize regularly. During the growing season, apply fertilizer for ornamental foliage, and at the flowering stage - for ornamental flowering plants.

In the fall, they apply complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen.

Flowering and dormant period

Afelander flower as behind him look after after flowering

A large inflorescence appears in early summer and can delight for several weeks. At the end of flowering, it should be removed before the fruit has time to form. After a period of fruiting, the plant most often ends its life cycle and dies.

The successful flowering of a tropical beauty is facilitated by the provision of a dormant period. Immediately after flowering (from about mid-autumn), remove the pot with the plant in a cool room with a temperature of 16–20 ° C. Water and spray occasionally. When spring comes, move the plant back to its original habitat.

Pruning

Alefandra grows quickly, the stems stretch out, the plant loses its attractiveness and compactness - timely pruning is necessary. To form a neat crown and give splendor, pinch the buds on the upper shoots of young plants. Adult specimens require early spring pruning: remove almost half of the old stems. After the pruning procedure, the leaves must be sprayed frequently.

Diseases and pests

As a rule, Afelandra is not affected by diseases, most often those who grow Afelandra at home have to deal with aphids and spider mites.

How to recognize and control aphids

Aphid colony can destroy a houseplant in a matter of days.

It is quite problematic not to notice aphids. The lower part of the leaves is covered with pests that settle in whole colonies and suck the juice out of the plant. The most popular with aphids are the upper, more delicate leaves and inflorescences. The smallest brownish dots are clearly visible in the lumen - dead areas of plant tissue.An additional symptom is sticky transparent discharge. If left untreated, the leaves will turn yellow, deform and fall off.

It is much easier to deal with aphids detected in time than with most pests of indoor plants. A soft toothbrush, a cotton pad is moistened in a thick foam of household or green potassium soap and washed off with aphids. Then Afelandre is given a warm (+ 35… + 40 ºС) shower and the plant is dried.

To consolidate the result, you can use folk remedies. Their effectiveness is due to the fact that aphids do not like strong odors. The finished infusion is filtered and sprayed with plants, not forgetting about the pot and the pallet. The recipes are as follows:

• 2-3 tablespoons of finely chopped onions, garlic or garlic arrows, tomato tops are poured with a liter of warm water, insisted for 2-3 days.
• Blooming celandine, marigolds, wormwood, dandelion leaves and roots (250-300 g) are cut, boiled in a water bath for half an hour, cooled to room temperature.
• Dried peels of 1-2 citrus fruits are poured with a liter of boiling water, insisted for 3 days.
• Dry leaves of self-grown tobacco or hot pepper pods (40-60 g) are crushed, insisted in a liter of water for a day. The same amount of water is added before use.

If time is lost, and aphids have multiplied, insecticides are used strictly according to the instructions. The best results are given by Fitoverm, Strela, Kinmiks, Inta-Vir, Arrivo, Fury, Karbofos. It is necessary to carry out 3-4 procedures with an interval of 7-10 days, each time changing the preparations.

How to get rid of spider mites

High air humidity - not only comfortable for Afelandra, but also an effective prevention of spider mites

The presence of spider mites in a pot with aphelandra is evidenced by thin, almost transparent filaments intertwining the leaves, and whitish dots on the lower part of the leaf plate. If you do not pay attention to these signals, the flower will soon disappear under a continuous layer of a whitish mass, similar to a cobweb. The pests will stop hiding and form a continuous wiggling carpet on the tops of the shoots and the ends of the leaves.

The best breeding environment for spider mites is dry air. Therefore, spraying, vital to Afelandre, is an excellent prevention of pests. But "bathing" the plant will not help. Ticks are able to form a protective air shell around themselves.

They also hate ultraviolet light. Get a lamp, irradiate the plants every 10-15 days.

If you find pests, immediately isolate the flower. Wipe the pot, tray, and window sill area with rubbing alcohol. Wash Afelandro with soap. Wipe off the foam, water the plant abundantly, put a plastic bag on top and fix it securely. Remove after three days.

At the initial stage of the lesion, infusions of onions or garlic help. Arrows, husks, finely chopped cloves and onions (about 25-30 g) are poured with a liter of warm water, tightly closed and infused for 3-5 days in a dark, warm place. Strain before use, then spray flowers and soil.

If you have raw materials, you can prepare a decoction of cyclamen tubers. They are cut into 3-4 parts, boiled for 35-40 minutes, removed from heat. In a day, the broth is ready for use.

Features of the care of the species

Such a plant loves small pots, so transplanting can be carried out in the spring due to the replacement of the soil with a new one. Do not forget about cleaning the leaves from dust. In this case, the plant will look neat and tidy. In addition, it can contribute to more vigorous growth.

Lighting

The light in the room should be bright, diffused. Plants that take place on window sills need to be shaded. This will protect them from sun exposure. A thin fabric can be used as a screen.

Attention! Lighting should be 10 hours a day. In winter, when the sun becomes less, it is worth using fluorescent lamps.

Air and temperature

High humidity is the main condition for the existence of bulging aphelandra.Reaching 90% is very difficult as the air can be dry due to batteries and heaters. You should spray the plant with a spray bottle several times a day.

At the same time, pebbles, peat, expanded clay are placed in the pallet. The protruding variety of Afelandra loves warmth. In the process of intensive growth, the optimal temperature can be considered 23-25 ​​degrees. During the rest period, it is 20 degrees.

For the subsequent flowering of afelandra, it is important to provide a temperature of 10 to 12 degrees.

The soil

You need to do the soil yourself

It is important that the soil is light, loose, breathable.

The composition will be as follows:

• Dry peat, turf, river sand of coarse grain in a ratio of 2: 1: 2.
• Universal soil, sand and peat in a ratio of 6: 2: 3.
• Peat, sand and earth in equal proportions.

Watering

Insufficient or excessive watering can be detrimental to Afelandra. Your task is to find a middle ground. The soil should not dry out, but strong waterlogging should not be allowed. In the phase of intensive growth, the plant needs watering every 3 days.

Water must be poured at the root, avoiding contact with the leaves. After an hour, the excess is drained from the pallet. Watering requires room temperature water. You can also use melt water or rainwater.

Top dressing

In the process of active growth, the plant needs to be fed every 2 weeks. Organic fertilizers and fertilizing are suitable for this. Home organic is an infusion of fresh manure, nettle, dung. These are all natural sources of nitrogen.

It is better to prepare fertilizer in the country, because it has a strong "aroma". After cooking, it should stand for about 4 days, and after it is diluted with water and the plant is fed.

Transfer

Young plants need replanting every three years. Thus, Afelandra is rejuvenated. The best time can be considered the period from March to April. You need to choose a cramped flowerpot, because it will promote flowering. The planting pot should be of medium size. A prerequisite is drainage holes. By planting a plant in a large pot, it will develop very slowly.

Important! When planting, you need to choose the right soil. Weakly acidic and neutral substrates will not work

If the soil is too acidic, the leaves may turn yellow and the flowers may become small. Soil with an increased alkaline reaction can lead to the death of the flower.

Reproduction

Cuttings are a reliable breeding method for protruding aphelandra. To do this, you can use cuttings or shoots. To root a plant, it is worth choosing cuttings, the length of which is from 7 to 15 cm.They should have several formed sheets

It is important to process the cut with Kornevin or Zircon

More details about the care and reproduction of Afelandra can be found here.

Flower propagation

At home, Afelandru can be propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Seeds

Seedlings grown from seeds grow quite quickly

Afelandra seeds are rarely found on the market, so it is better to collect them yourself. To do this, do not cut off the faded inflorescence. Wait for the capsule fruit to form. When it dries and cracks at the seams, the seeds are ripe. This usually happens at the end of February if the plant has bloomed in summer.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Fill seedling boxes or mini-greenhouses with a sterilized mixture of universal soil for ornamental flowering plants or dry peat and coarse sand in a 4: 1 ratio.
2. It is good to moisten the soil and level it.
3. With an interval of 2-3 cm, spread the seeds over the surface of the substrate, sprinkle on top with sand (no more than 1 cm), moisten again.
4. Cover the containers with plastic wrap or glass, providing the seeds with a temperature of about 20-22 ° C, high humidity and enough light. Every day for 5-7 minutes planting is aired, the soil is sprayed as it dries.
5. Under optimal conditions, seedlings will appear in about 2 weeks.Wait for the formation of the first pair of true leaves and transplant the aphelandras into individual pots with a diameter of 6–8 cm. Mix the soil from ordinary, fertile turf soil and sand, taken in a ratio of 2: 2: 3.

If everything is done correctly, young plants will bloom this fall, 8-10 months after planting.

Afelandra seedlings bloom within a year after planting the seeds

Cuttings

The easiest way is to propagate aphelandra with apical cuttings. To do this, cut off the top about 10-15 cm long from a healthy, non-flowering shoot. There must be at least one pair on it. leaf and growth point.

Root them like this:

1. Cut cuttings are immersed in a growth stimulator (Epin, Kornevin, potassium humate, succinic acid) for 6–8 hours.
2. Sections are sprinkled with powdered activated carbon and cuttings are rooted in individual containers with wet sand or a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. The pots are covered with special glass jars or jars.
3. Optimal conditions are created for the cuttings. They need a temperature of + 23 ... + 25 ºС, high humidity and regular daily ventilation. In this case, they will give roots in 20-30 days.
4. The plants that have given roots are planted in a mixture of leafy earth, humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. The pot is taken with a diameter of about 7 cm. Afelandras, obtained by cuttings, grow rather slowly. Constant temperature, lighting and air humidity are very important for them.
5. After the appearance of 4–5 pairs of leaves, young aphelandras are pinched to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots.

Afelandra cuttings for fast rooting are important for warmth, light and high humidity.

Somewhat less often, Afelandru is propagated by leaf cuttings. They take longer to take root and in about one out of three cases. You need to take a healthy leaf, without the slightest signs of damage by diseases and pests, without deformations, fully developed, not one-year-old, but not old, and cut it off together with the axillary bud. It is better if the shoot from which the leaf was taken did not bloom this year.

Such a rooting sheet is clearly not suitable.

Leaves are cut in late fall or early winter. Then they act according to the algorithm described for cuttings, rooting the leaf immediately in the ground, without immersion in water. The only difference is that the appearance of the roots will have to wait about 2 times longer.

A healthy leaf is an important condition for successful rooting.

Possible growing problems

1. Leaves dry out and curl.

Reason: too bright light.

Solution:

The flower needs to be rearranged to a darker place.

2. The tips of the leaves wither.

Reason: dry land.

Solution:

Drying out mainly affects plants planted in a peat mixture with intertwined roots. The flower must be placed in a tray with water, which will saturate the substrate from below.

3. The bottom sheets wither and fall off

Reason: drying out or waterlogging of the soil, excessive feeding.

Solution:

Wash salt from the substrate, reduce the concentration of fertilizers. Maintain humidity at an optimal level.

4. White bloom on the leaves

Reason: the insect is a mealybug.

Solution:

The plaque is removed with a swab dipped in vegetable oil or alcohol solution.

5. Small insects on the underside of the leaves.

Reason: aphid.

Solution:

Rinse the leaves with water, treat the flower with soapy water.

6. The plant grows slowly, weak.

Reason: mushroom gnats.

Solution:

Dry the soil for 2-4 days, put pieces of potatoes in a pot to destroy the larvae.

In the next article you can find out: how to grow a garden and indoor primrose.

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Varieties

In total, there are more than 100 species of aphelandra, but only 2 of them are suitable for growing at home - orange and bulging. Also in indoor floriculture, many varieties of these species are used, differing in size, color of foliage and flowers.

Orange aphelandra (Aphelandra aurantiaca).

A short bush with thick, fleshy shoots of a red hue. Over time, they become lignified. Leaves are oval, oblong, pointed at the top, entire, dark green, with silvery veins. The length of the leaves is 20 - 25 cm. The inflorescences are spike-shaped, quadrangular, about 15 cm long. The flowers are rich orange, with green bracts. After flowering, many fruits are formed on the bush, from which, after ripening, seeds are extracted, suitable for planting.

Aphelandra protruding or skuarrosa (Aphelandra squarrosa).

A low-growing plant with smooth, fleshy, light red shoots. Leaves are sessile, elliptical, 30 cm long, dark green, with large silvery-white veins forming a bright pattern on the surface. The inflorescence is tetrahedral, 25 cm long, formed at the top of the central shoot. The flowers are tubular, yellow. Bracts are orange. Flowering begins in June and is milked until the end of autumn.

Protruding aphelandra varieties:

"Louis" is a bush with a thick light green stem, on which there are oval elongated green leaves with cream-colored veins. The flowers are yellow, with rich yellow bracts;

"Leopold" - a variety with bright orange tubular flowers;

"Denmark" - a variety of Afelandra, which is a plant with spike-shaped yellow inflorescences. The leaves are dark green with wide white veins.

Home care for Afelandra

How to properly care for Afelandra. Afelandra is very moody and demanding on light and humidity, so it will take an effort to grow it.

Lighting and location

The plant needs constant bright light. Direct sunlight can cause burns on the leaves, so shading is required in the daytime. In autumn and winter, when there is not enough sunlight, additional illumination with a fluorescent lamp is required daily for 8-9 hours.

Temperature

The temperature graph of Afelandra can be conditionally divided into several periods, when a certain temperature should be maintained in the room:

• from tying buds to opening them, the temperature in the room should be at least 22 degrees;
• during the flowering period - the temperature should not exceed 24 degrees;
• at the end of flowering - no more than 14 degrees.

The plant needs fresh air, but is afraid of drafts

Reproduction

At home, Afelandra is propagated using cuttings and seeds.

Propagation by cuttings is easy. Most of the planted shoots are viable and take root quickly enough. For rooting, it is recommended to take shoots up to 15 centimeters long with 2-3 leaves. The shoot is separated with a sharp knife or pruner. After it dries slightly, it must be treated with a growth stimulant, charcoal or cinnamon powder - this will protect the plant from fungus and rot.

Young shoots are planted in a mixture of turf and coarse sand and covered with a jar on top. The plant will stay in the greenhouse until it takes root. Rooting takes place within 3-4 weeks.

Shoots should be provided with diffused lighting and high humidity. To avoid rotting, the cuttings are treated with a fungicidal solution.

After rooting, young shoots are transplanted into separate pots with potting soil, as for adult plants.

The propagation of aphelandra by seeds is carried out in the fall, when boxes with seeds are formed on the shrub after flowering.

Seeds are planted in containers with loose, moist soil and covered with foil or glass. It is necessary to maintain a constant temperature of up to 22 degrees and a constant high humidity. After the appearance of real leaves, the plants should be dived and planted in separate pots.

Watering plants and moisture

In natural conditions, Afelandra grows in tropical forests.At home, you need to ensure that the earthen lump is not very waterlogged. Watering is done abundantly, but as needed. During the dormant period, the plant should be watered no more than once a week. The water should be at room temperature.

Spraying is carried out every 2-3 days. After blooming the buds, the spraying is reduced to once a week. This will extend the flowering time of the shrub. In winter, when the air in the room is dry, the pots can be placed on pallets with moistened expanded clay, small pebbles or moss.

Transplanting Afelandra and soil

Young plants are transplanted annually

For transplantation, you can use ready-made universal soil or prepare it yourself. For this, leaf and sod soil, peat, coarse sand, fine charcoal should be used in equal parts.

The soil should be light, loose, moisture and air permeable. Before using the potting mix, it is advisable to disinfect it by calcining it in the oven or spilling it with boiling water.

External features

All flowering indoor plants and those with bright leaf color need good lighting and warmth. Afelandra is no exception

In order for the plant to feel normal, and not just survive, it is important to create an environment that is as similar to natural conditions as possible. It's good if they are the same as in their geographical homeland, in the rainforests of South America.

Outwardly, the plant looks like a small bush, 50 cm high. The leaves are located very densely on the shoots, literally pressing one on top of the other. This happens until those years, then it begins to independently discard leaf blades.

Light streaks look most impressive on a dark background, which make the sheet corrugated and create the illusion of a white mesh. Afelandra is spectacular without flowers. Although the period of its flowering is quite long - from June to October. The process develops gradually. First, the buds appear, collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. Stipules form after them. Together they form a harmonious tandem, 15 cm wide. But this does not last long.

The stipules remaining after pruning adorn the plant for at least three months.

Botanists have described over fifty natural species. In home floriculture, the most popular is the protruding aphelandra - Aphelandra squarrosa (photo 1), and its breeding forms:

• Snow Queen,
• Leopoldii,

• Dania

Orange aphelandra (Aphelandra aurantiaca) (photo 2) is distinguished by bright orange inflorescences. On large dark green leaves, thick silvery veins are clearly visible. The size of one sheet, on average, is about 20 cm.
Afelandra orange - Aphelandra aurantiaca.

Afelandra comb (photo 3) has leaves of a light emerald hue. Its bright red inflorescences resemble a bird's comb.

Afelandra crested.

Caring for Afelandra in a domain

At home, caring for a plant is easy, but only if you follow all the rules and recommendations of experienced florists. Tropicana needs to create conditions that are as close to natural as possible:

• Air humidity. The tropical plant prefers a humid climate, which should also be ensured at home. To do this, put moss moss near the tub with a bush, put a tray with water and carry out regular spraying (only with warm liquid). In a too dry room, when the above methods are ineffective, a special automatic sprayer is installed that will maintain a constant humidity level, or the plant is placed in a glass box (like an aquarium).
• Temeparatura. The temperature in the room should be kept at least +15 degrees (in winter) and +22 in the summer. Do not place a tub with a plant near heating devices - they dry the air very much, and a tropical color needs a humid climate.
• The soil.In nature, Afelandra grows in a substrate consisting of sod and leafy soil. For home cultivation, it is better to prepare a special soil, including leaf (4 parts) and sod (1 part) soil, humus, sand and peat (1 part each). This soil mixture contains all the substances necessary for the growth and development of bushes, and also has excellent drainage qualities.
• Lighting. Although these undersized shrubs in the rainforest receive little sunlight, Afelandra still needs good lighting. In winter, the flowerpot with the plant is placed in a bright place, without shading, and in summer the bushes are protected from direct sunlight. During the period of short light days, the flower needs additional lighting using alternative light sources.

Before you bring Afelandra into the house, you should take into account the fact that the high humidity of the air, which is required for the growth of the bush, can adversely affect the condition of the walls and ceiling of your apartment, provoking the appearance of a fungus.

Caring for this native of the tropics is not very difficult and consists in regular watering, pruning, fertilizing:

• Watering. Exceptionally soft water is used to moisten the soil. If it is hard in your tap, it is better to boil it or use a rain one. Watch out for the moisture content of the soil, since when it dries out, the flower receives enormous stress, which significantly affects its further growth and development. With the onset of spring and until the end of autumn, watering should be regular; in winter, their number is reduced, but at the same time the moisture of the substrate must be maintained.
• Top dressing. Afelandra is distinguished by intensive growth and very quickly draws out all nutrients from the soil. Therefore, in order not to leave the plant hungry, it is necessary to regularly fertilize. This should be done throughout the year, every two weeks. Standard dressing can be purchased at a flower shop and applied according to instructions. No additional fertilization is required. In winter, fertilizers are applied once a month so that the tropicana does not start active growth.
• Pruning. This is a must when caring for afelandra. Otherwise, the plant can occupy half of the living space. Pruning is carried out every year at the end of winter, using any convenient tool for this. Each shoot is pruned at a distance of about 20 cm from the base of the trunk. After the procedure, the plant is moistened or the cut off shoots are covered with a film. Lack of pruning can lead to the elongation of the bush and the loss of its decorative qualities.
• Transfer. As the afelandra grows up, it needs to be transplanted regularly, since the overgrown rhizome, unlike the ground part, cannot be cut off. It is only necessary to transplant a flower with the onset of spring, since later the plant enters a phase of active growth, and the transplant can injure it. The soil must be changed, and the old soil is disposed of, since pathogenic fungi or bacteria may be present in it.

Transfer

The plant feels well in somewhat cramped conditions. That is why you should not rush to relocate if it seems that she has slightly outgrown her pot. This is not a hindrance for her. The signal that a transplant is needed is the size of the leaves. They get much smaller.

The work is best done in the spring, when the plant starts to grow after hibernation. Subsequence:

• Prepare a pot, the size of which is larger than the previous one, and pour boiling water over it to prevent diseases and pests. Do the same with the substrate.
• Place a layer of drainage material on the bottom to prevent moisture stagnation. It can be small expanded clay, pebbles, brick chips. Sprinkle lightly with substrate.

• Water Afelandru abundantly so that the lump is easily removed from the pot and does not crumble.

• Put a lump in the center of the new pot. Sprinkle the voids with a substrate and compact well.
• Place the transplanted plant in a shaded place.

Home care

Having decided to buy an Afelandra home, you should know that this flower is very picky and requires careful care, proper reproduction at home, it is better for experienced florists to do this.

If the plant is not provided with proper home conditions, then the flower will stop blooming, wither or even die.

ATTENTION. If you do not remove faded inflorescences in time, do not feed the plant, do not know which purchased soil is suitable, and also do not observe the required level of humidity, then Afelandra will first begin to throw off the leaves, and then completely disappear.

Temperature control and lighting

Afelandra is a fairly thermophilic and photophilous plant. Even in winter, a flower needs a temperature in the region of 20 to 23 degrees Celsius for normal existence. The minimum level to which a drop in temperature is permissible is 16 degrees Celsius. If the air temperature drops below 13 degrees, then the flower dies.

Also, this plant does not like sharp temperature jumps. The air temperature should be as uniform as possible.

Separately, it should be noted that Afelandra loves rather bright lighting. The optimal location for the flower is, of course, the window sill. In this case, the most suitable are east and west windows.

It is important to ensure that direct sunlight does not fall on the flower. Otherwise, the plant may get burned.

In summer, you can take it out into the fresh air.

In winter, there may be a lack of natural light. In this case, it is recommended to provide artificial light with a fluorescent lamp.

If a sufficient level of illumination is not observed, Afelandra stops blooming, and the leaves lose their juicy color and become elongated.

Watering

As noted above, the plant needs abundant watering and high humidity. In a warm period of time (from spring to autumn), the flower should be watered regularly, keeping constant soil moisture. In this case, you should not allow stagnation of water in the pot. In winter, watering should be more moderate.

The water should be at room temperature and soft. It is recommended to water with rain or melt water. In extreme cases, you can use boiled water.

It is also important to ensure high humidity. To do this, the flower must be regularly sprayed

The best option would be to place the plant in a pallet with wet pebbles.

IMPORTANT. Afelandru should not be sprayed during the flowering period.

Pruning

A separate item in the care of afelandra is timely pruning. It is especially necessary for an old plant, since with age it begins to stretch and lose the lower leaves. This makes the flower look ugly.

Pruning should be done at the end of winter, before the plant enters the active growth phase. All young shoots are usually cut off. Stumps with a height of 20 cm should be left. At the same time, to ensure a high level of moisture, they put on small bags and spray abundantly. In order for the flower to bush, the shoots should be pinched.

How to care for Afelandra

Caring for an aphelandra is not so difficult if you provide it with a high level of humidity and warm air during the growing season. Before caring for afelandra, read the simple rules of these agrotechnical measures.
You can grow it not only in the house, but also outdoors in mild climates and with soil rich in humus. If you cannot provide the flower with these conditions, then it is better to transfer it to a house or greenhouse.
When growing in an apartment or greenhouse, use a drainage pot filled with equal parts clay, peat and sand.Place the Afelandra container in a room with bright but not direct light

It is worth watering it very carefully, but you should know that waterlogged or too dry soil can lead to foliage falling.
During the growing season when caring for Aphelander "feed" the flower with liquid fertilizers, and after the end of the growth process, reduce the amount of watering. Splitting off is not necessary, because you will already get one stem with a thorn-shaped flower at the exit.
An important aspect of how to care for Afelandra is the timely transplantation and reproduction of the plant in various ways and ways.

Aphelendra can be propagated by cuttings. In the spring, remove the side shoots or old branch and then insert them into the sand (if growing in a greenhouse). As long as the roots are not branching, they should be placed in the open field for several days. Only then can they be transplanted into separate pots.
Seeds are also advised to be planted in spring in containers with sandy peat and loam. High air temperature and regular watering will allow the first shoots to grow in a few months.

Description details

The tropical culture is highly regarded by flower growers. And the point here is not only that it is considered a rarity in domestic apartments and houses. The plant is very decorative. It blooms for several weeks a year, and the rest of the time decorates the interior with original foliage. The secret of the evergreen Afelandra lies in its origin. The homeland of the beauty is called the American tropics, namely, humid forests.

In nature, shrubs or semi-shrubs of the Akantov family grow up to 2 m. At home, their dimensions are more modest: up to 1.3 m. But more often - lower. Large glossy leaves are smooth and slightly corrugated. Against the background of dark greenery, white, silvery or cream veins stand out brightly.

Afelandra forms buds of gold or sun shades. Flowers are small. The bracts are of greater decorative value. Their shape is spikelets or pyramids, the widespread color range is yellow-orange-red.

Attention! It is believed that Afelandra juice is poisonous. When touching a flower at home, do not forget to protect your skin with gloves.

This is a characteristic feature of many tropical plants.

Species cultivated at home

In total, there are slightly less than 200 varieties of aphelandra: the most beautiful, quadrangular, etc. Only 2 species are used for growing a house:

1. Gold or orange. A low shrub with reddish shoots that woody over time. Oval, green-silvery leaves pointed at the edges are located opposite each other. Their length is about 25 cm. The aphelandra bracts are green, and the spikelets are bright orange. Although this variety is grown at home, it is rarely found in the collections of domestic florists. The most famous variety is Afelandra Retzla.
2. Protruding, she is skuarrosa. The more popular representative of the genus Aphelandra. Low-growing bushes are dotted with variegated smooth leaves. The lower part of the plates is lighter than the upper one. Spike-shaped inflorescences grow up to 30 cm and are combined with orange bracts. Varieties:

• Denmark - This compact aphelandra has yellow flowers and green and white leaves;
• Louise - veins on leaf plates are silvery or yellowish, on bracts - greenish;
• Leopold - forms bright orange buds;
• Fitz Prinsler - characterized by patterned leaves, etc.