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LANDING ROSES
Details Posted on 05/03/2016 14:42
Host of the Rose Garden forum on the VS website, a well-known rose connoisseur Alexey STEPANOV talks about all the nuances planting roses: choice of location, depth and timing of planting, processing before planting.
SELECTING A LOCATION... The rose is sun-loving, in the shade it will not bloom, but slowly fade away. The morning sun quickly dries the dew on the leaves at times reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Roses do not like drafts and cold air stagnation, so they are placed in the highest and sunniest places. Rose loves fertile light, slightly acidic soils.
Chlorosis of the leaves may appear on acidic and alkaline ones. It does not tolerate locking, because the groundwater level on the site should be no higher than 1 meter, if higher, then the planting must be raised.
Decide what you want. Is it a rabat with hybrid tea roses, or a mixborder with ground cover, luxurious climbing roses decorating arches and trellises, or a hedge of bush roses?
We choose a place, remembering that it should not be flooded with melt water, and in the fall the roses will have to be covered. Especially a lot of space will be needed for bush and climbing. Some varieties can look beautiful in the form of a tapeworm on the lawn, but "loners" overwinter always worse than a group, and the energy spent on sheltering one bush is commensurate with shelter 7-8. Therefore, it is better to plant in groups in one or two rows.
For example, rose gardens in which in the first row are planted tea-hybrid with a height of up to 1, and in the second bush 1.5-1.8 meters, look interesting. A checkerboard landing in 2 rows is considered classic, while the "face" of the rose garden is oriented to the south or southeast. The larger the area under cover, the better the roses winter. It is most convenient to cover rectangular rose gardens, although they look trite. Do not plant roses in 3 or more rows. It is very inconvenient to make your way to the middle row through thorny bushes. Paths are laid in a large array.
Do not plant roses under the canopy of large trees, which, having launched the roots into the planting hole, will instantly suck everything out of there. It is important to know what kind of plants grew in this place. All Rosaceae are not suitable as precursors, as they have already taken from the soil the same nutrients that roses need. You can not plant them, and where roses grew for a long time, there the earth is very depleted and infected with pathogenic organisms. If there is no other option, then the soil needs to be replaced.
LANDING. Pits are dug at a distance from each other: for climbing and ground cover not less than 1 m, or even 1, 5-2; for scrubs, 1 m is enough, and for hybrid teas and floribundas - 0.5.
Loam is most suitable for roses. Sandy soils are less suitable, they freeze more, nutrients are quickly washed into the lower layers, so clay and compost are added to them. Peat bogs are considered the worst.
Roses are planted for a long time: hybrid teas and floribundas live on average 5-7 years, shrub roses 7-10, climbing and park roses 10-15 years, or even all 25 years. Therefore, it is necessary to create a breeding ground that would be sufficient for all years. There are no ideal soils, but any can be ennobled. For miniature and patio roses, it is enough to dig 40x40 planting holes, for hybrid tea and floribundas - 60x60, for climbing and large bush or park - at least 80x80 cm.
Pits must be prepared in advance, for example, in the spring from autumn, so that the soil "ripens" and the fertilizers dissolve. In practice, this rarely happens. I had to plant roses on the day of digging a hole and that's okay.Only then it is not necessary to add fertilizers so that the young roots do not burn out. You can fertilize in a month, when the seedling takes root. The yellowing of young leaves signals that the roots are burnt with fertilizers. It is necessary to immediately dig the rose, transplant it to another place, and leave the hole to “ripen” for a month or two, carefully spilling it with water.
Digging a hole, remove the sod layer, remove and store the entire layer of loam, and, finally, the clay, which we take out from the site. We put the sod on the bottom and break it with a shovel. Then I put a bucket of sand and half a bucket of peat into the pit, mix, getting light soil in which water will not stagnate. I mix the remaining loam with a bucket of sand, 1-2 buckets of peat, add rotted horse manure and compost. And another 1-2 glasses of dolomite flour (on acidic soils) and a glass of ash. You can't mix them, so I add dolomite flour to the bottom of the pit, and ash up. For the pit I give 2-3 handfuls of Kemira-wagon and bone meal, 2 glasses for the pit. I mix everything thoroughly, make a hole in the size of the container or equal to the length of the roots and place the seedling. I cover the roots with soil and spill each layer with water so that there are no voids.
Roots in a packaging container are twisted or tied. If the roses have not yet started growing and the young roots have not grown, then it is better to shake the lump, examine the root system, straighten and cut. If the white roots have already braided the container, then I spread them in the planting hole when I spill water. For seedlings with an open root system, before planting, I update the sections and soak them in water for a day. After planting in a permanent place, I update the cuts on the shoots. The fact is that imported seedlings are cut by a machine, but it does not understand where to cut. We know what's above the kidney.
Escapes should be shortened to about 8-10 cm. Climbing and ground cover do not need to be shortened. Many recommend covering the rose with earth to protect the stems from drying out, and then after 2-3 weeks carefully wash the hillock with water. I have never done this, but I also did not leave planting without watering for more than 3 days, did not use stimulants, I just always chose the strongest seedling that could withstand all adversity. Rose is a powerful and tenacious plant that does not need stimulants. All this is a temporary doping for the plant, so why teach it to?
The planted rose must be covered with a 5-liter bottle or four stakes must be driven in around the perimeter, wrapped in lutrasil and tied with a rope, then the soil retains moisture and overheats less in the sun, because rooting occurs at a low (15 degrees) temperature. Two weeks later, when the seedling starts to grow, it can be opened.
ABOUT LANDING DEPTH. It is recommended to deepen the inoculation by 5-7 cm. I believe that on clay soils it is better to place it flush with the ground. My roses, planted 8-10 years ago in this way, are still alive, and buried in accordance with the “rules” have long been in another world. Apparently, when planting deeply, the bush quickly passes to its own roots, which is clearly confirmed by the dug up "corpses". This happens because the stock falls into the cold lower layer of the soil, and the scion, once in the warm upper layer, begins to take root.
The rootstock, which does not fulfill its functions, begins to die off and pulls the scion along with it. It has been established that roses on their own roots overwinter worse than grafted ones, so why transfer to them? In addition, I noticed that roses with a deep grafting cease to give new replacement shoots already in the third year. Perhaps they are simply not able to break through from the depths, and without renewal, the rose grows old and fades away. The rule of planting roses by grafting at ground level applies only to heavy soils. On cold and very freezing sandy roses, it is necessary to deepen.
ABOUT THE TIME OF LANDING ROSES. Sleeping seedlings are planted from mid-April, as soon as the soil thaws, but reliably protected from frost with dense lutrasil. Saplings grown on the balcony can be planted from about May 10. First half of May - the best time to plant unrooted roses. In dry, hot weather, they greatly inhibit development. If, before the heat, they do not have time to take root and build up the leaf mass, then the survival time will stretch for the whole summer, and the season will be lost.
There is an opinion that in the first season it is necessary to pick off the buds and not let the rose bloom. I think this is not only stupid, but also harmful advice. The recommendation can be attributed to weak annual seedlings. But to deprive a two-year-old bloom is cruel. Firstly, you will not see the flowering of the "firstborn", moreover, only the thriving shoots are considered ripe. By cutting off the buds, we interfere with ripening and doom the rose to a difficult winter. When replanting container seedlings, we try not to ruin the earthen lump.
In the summer they often sell flowering seedlings... Then re-grading is excluded. But the rose is grown in a greenhouse and is often infested with thrips, which will instantly move to neighbors. Examine the purchase carefully, and if the flowers and buds seem suspicious, immediately cut them off.
Alexey STEPANOV.
See also:
We love roses, we cut vines (with video)
Photo contest Rose Garden-2016
Back to the heading Roses
WHEN AND HOW WE WILL DISCOVER THE ROSES: master class by Alexey Stepanov (video)
Details Posted on 02/05/2018 11:35
Spring is just around the corner. On the eve of the forum, the host of the Sun Rose Garden forum-online Alexey Stepanov decided to surprise the rose growers. This is - video master class about opening roses. First part the film was filmed in April last year in Galina Govorun's garden near Moscow, and the second - two weeks later in the old section of Alexei. Word - Alexey STEPANOV:
First, I want to comment in more detail on the video about removing shelters from roses in Galina Govorun's garden (the first part of the master class).
As you remember, in the same garden we filmed training video on sheltering roses for the winter... There are many videos on the Internet about different ways to hide roses for the winter, but I never had to see the results of wintering under one or another shelter... Therefore, I decided to make such a film so that you would no longer have any doubts about the reliability of our shelters.
Our video about the shelter of roses, which I mentioned, was filmed the year before last in October and now wethoroughly, showed in detail how these roses overwintered.
I want to clarify only one point. At the very beginning, the video says that the roses were opened on April 9 on Palm Sunday. But everyone probably remembers what kind of return frosts came a week after that. Therefore, all open h / g rose and floribunda I had to urgently cover again and reopen them already for the May holidays. Climbing and ground cover did not take shelter again, but the first young growth was very frozen and the roses bloomed very late, there was no second wave of flowering at all. Even h / g roses wrapped in lutrasil boles froze young unopened leaves, but the frost was severe down to -7 degrees. This once again emphasizes that there is no need to rush to the opening in spring, it is better later than before, under lutrasil roses in spring develop beautifully and much faster.
The day chosen for the removal of shelters was not the most successful. It was sunny, and it is better to open roses in cloudy weather, so that the sun does not immediately begin to dry the shoots that have come out of wintering, but, unfortunately, the operator was free only that day. In addition, I also had to shoot the opening of roses in my garden ...
Two weeks after the opening of the roses at Gali's, the operator and I went to shoot the opening of the roses in my old garden, and at the same time we looked at the new one. It seemed to me that everyone would be interested in how the first years and rare, still capricious, varieties of roses in the north of the Moscow region overwintered.
Last year the spring did not work out, usually in the 20s of April the weather is already good and it is quite possible to finally remove the shelters.But we had to come, open, and then again after filming the film, close the rose gardens back and finally open them only after 2 weeks, since the whole next week after filming they promised night minuses, which were not needed at all by overwintered roses. Therefore, you will see in the film many hiding places that you have not even approached or opened to see what is inside. Naturally, because of this, they did not raise open roses to the summer position, as shown in the first film. The only rose that was opened and raised was Aloha, and I decided to leave it uncovered with further night frosts down to minus 5 only because there were practically no buds on it yet.
All other roses were opened and raised only on May 5th. Actually, last year it could have been done later, as on May 9 another snow and rain fell.
However, small frosts could no longer damage the well-wintered roses, and last summer all my roses bloomed pretty well.
In the video, you will see how roses survived the harsh last winter under my shelter. I'll tell you right away that the overall wintering was very successfuldespite the severe frosts in winter, there was a lot of snow.
But the first results, filmed at the beginning of April, were then greatly overshadowed by a prolonged cold spring (the second part of the video of the master class was just filmed during the cold snap, at the end of April) and by frequent severe night frosts, by the middle of May the rose had an extra bit of undercut to avoid infection burns. But in general, I think the picture is clear and the roses, despite all the whims of nature, lasted until the summer, which also did not spoil them with warmth. For a complete picture of the year spent in the life of roses in this garden, only photographs of summer flowering are not enough. So that you have no final doubts about the positive outcome of my shelters, some photos of the flowering of these bushes last summer are attached (see below).
I wish your roses always only such a great wintering, as shown in our video:
Opening roses in spring: part 1 and part 2
And how the roses have wintered this season, we will find out very soon.
Sincerely yours, Alexey STEPANOV,host of the forum "Rose Garden-Online" (nickname on the Alexrus forum).
See the master class on opening roses in spring:part 1 and part 2
Back to Roses and rose gardens
SHELTER OF ROSES FOR WINTER: master class by Alexey Stepanov (video)
Details Posted on 09/30/2017 2:27 PM
Dear friends, like-minded people and especially newcomers to rose growing! After filming a video on pruning roses and numerous responses, it was decided to film and show the whole process as well. laying and covering roses for the winter... Of course, the VS website and the Rose Garden Online forum have articles and recommendations on this topic. But words - in words, and showing in a video the whole process of shelter is completely different! Indeed, from year to year, novice rose growers ask the same questions, that is, some moments remain incomprehensible to them. It is for beginners who have not yet learned the basics of rose growing, first of all, our videos are addressed ...
The shelter process took place in October 2016. In total, 3 stories were filmed about the hiding of roses in the client's garden and in my old garden. The video presents all the groups of roses, as well as the shelter of adult bushes and a separate video on the shelter of standard forms ...
I have been practicing hiding roses according to the method shown for more than 10 years and I can say that almost never, even in the most severe frosty winters, it did not let me down. When the shelter was made in time, the roses came out of wintering in spring almost always in perfect condition.
I know that most of our successful rose growers with magnificent rose gardens and gorgeous bushes use this method on their plots. Therefore, I would call it universal. The old method of the APU (air-dry shelter) is now practically not used by anyone: with the advent of modern covering materials on sale, it is no longer necessary to cover roses with a film for the winter.
At the same time, I emphasize that I do not use denser covering materials (geotextiles, garden batting): before using them in my garden, you still need to conduct an experiment in a separate rose garden. Basically, such materials are used where there is little snow in winter or there is a lot of concrete and asphalt around, from which snow is removed.
In previous years, I have tried various methods of shelter and different materials, but I finally settled on the one shown in the video: for my rose gardens, such shelters are the most convenient.
By the way, in the spring of this year, 2017, another video was specially shot, which shows the opening of roses after winter and the results of wintering those roses that are shown in the video on the shelter. This material will be edited and shown closer to winter, but I can assure you that the wintering results were just perfect. It was later that spring and late frosts made their own adjustments and somewhat spoiled the overall picture of good wintering.
I can't say with certainty: do the same as shown in the videos, and your roses are guaranteed to overwinter 100%. Maybe you have or will have your own hideouts. I just wanted to show with these videos that this particular method works well in my conditions with my agricultural technology and my care of roses. In the second part of the shooting we were in my old garden: I just wanted to show you a piece of this garden.
And I really hope that these videos will help our newbies a little, who are still afraid of roses and are afraid to plant them because of the complexity of the shelters. Perhaps, after watching, some questions will disappear by themselves. One shelter from a small group of roses with leaf stripping is done within an hour, as you will see in the video.
As always, I wish you beautiful blooming roses and a long warm autumn, so that everyone has time to shelter their beauties.
Regards everyone, yours Alexey STEPANOV, host of the forum "Rose Garden-Online" (nickname on the Alexrus forum).
Shelter roses for the winter: part 1
Shelter roses for the winter: part 2
Shelter of standard roses
Back to the section Roses and rose gardens
