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- Shelter roses for the winter.
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apin1348 »Jan 19, 2012, 11:18 pm 4 Replies Last post by NataliK
12 Sep 2014, 14:29
As an advice, I offer readers my experience on how to grow roses in those regions where the summer is short, frequent frosts, like we have in the Northwest.
The only joy is the white nights, which allow you to grow the most heat-loving plants in the country.
I started growing roses 25 years ago. I brought two bushes of Crimean roses from Crimea in November. From year to year, I increased the number of bushes by cuttings, brought out other varieties from seeds, cut Dutch roses - and now, as a result of many years of work, I have 300 rose bushes at my dacha. I have kept the varieties of Crimean roses, and they are the main ones. To these bushes, I added climbing roses, which I also grew from cuttings.
My roses bloom from mid-July to October, that is, until frost. And although our climate is not very favorable for roses, I have learned not only to keep them from freezing, but also to grow new bushes.
I want to warn you that the main condition for the successful cultivation of roses is a great love for them, great work and patience - then your favorite flowers will delight you with unearthly beauty.
Here are some tips on how to plant rose bushes, how to grow new bushes from cuttings and, finally, how to cover for the winter.
Tip one: planting rose bushes
I choose the lightest place for planting, remove the top layer of the earth, make drainage 50-60 cm. Then I cover the bed with earth with rotted manure - this is usually earth from a greenhouse. I add sand, peat, turf soil, I dig everything up - the flower bed is ready. Prepared seedlings of the same age (2 years old) are planted in a flower bed. Only roses grow on it - no other flowers!
Important note: should not be near peonies. The distance between the bushes is 0.5 meters.
Second tip: leaving
- daily watering in the morning and evening;
- loosening, weed and pest control;
- when aphids appear, I spray it with Iskra - 1 tablet per 10 liters of water;
- I cut off non-flowering shoots once a season;
- instead of fertilization, only fresh soil or rotted 2-3-year-old manure;
- it is imperative to pick off the buds that begin to bind - if this is not done, there will be no new shoots and the bush will not bloom a second time.
I use rose petals for lotion, use dry and broth for a bath, make “pink” syrup for green tea, prepare “rose” oil.
Tip three: cuttings
You can grow a new rose bush from a cutting at any time, but I was convinced from my own experience that it is best to cut a cut of roses in the fall.
Why?
- You see the variety of the rose.
- You only cook a stalk from a flowering branch.
- Cuttings winter well in the ground and form a root system perfectly in spring.
- I cover the cuttings with spruce paws.
For the nursery, I take a separate bed, which will later become a flower bed. I do not touch young seedlings for a year, if buds appear, I cut them off.
After a year, the cuttings become full-fledged young bushes, which I plant to rose bushes that are more than 8 years old.
On average, my roses live 10-12 years and in the spring you can see from the shoots that it is the last color.
Tip four: how to prepare roses for winter
- At the beginning of October, I begin to cut the bushes by 25-30 cm. I fold them according to the varieties, since I will cut the cuttings from the branches.
- I weed, loosen, add fresh earth (you can put fallen leaves and sprinkle with earth - this is also very good for roses).
- I cover it with spruce paws (you can use one layer).
- I fix the shelter with Agrospam-20 film.
I open the roses in April, when there is no snow on the flower beds, I take off the shelter, cut off the broken branches, wash it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, remove the paws and cover it again with only one film. I keep it under the film until mid-May.
And in mid-May I do the last pruning, remove the blackened tops of bushes, broken twigs and wait for young leaves, and then - the long-awaited flowering. Nothing makes you so happy when you see that your labors were not in vain.
Planting scheme for cuttings
- A stalk of 4 buds.
- I cut about 200 pieces.
- I cook the garden as usual.
- I make grooves and put cuttings in them into two buds in the ground.
- I cover the spruce with my paws.
Those that do not give a root system turn black, I delete. 80% take root after wintering!
author Medevedva A., author's photo
I am a beginner gardener, and before our family did not have a plot. I am 62 years old, I live in the North in the Khanty-Mansiysk district.
Our area is mainly swamps, rivers, forests. The gardening season is short here, by the beginning of November we usually have frosts of -20 degrees. Therefore, in our area in the fall, all garden plants finish growing relatively early and carefully take cover for the winter.
I really love flowers! And although my site is small, but, nevertheless, there is a floral variety here, including roses.
Difficulties of gardening in the North
In addition to flowers, in my garden I try to grow a little of everything - fruits, berries, vegetables. There are raspberries (5 varieties), black currants, apple trees (4 varieties) zoned to northern conditions, cherries (3 varieties, including felt ones), plums. Apple trees sometimes freeze superficially during spring frosts, especially during flowering - you have to cut ...
Buldenezh viburnum has been growing on my site for three years, every winter it freezes over. While the seedling was small, I covered it for the winter. In a grown bush, unripe shoots die in winter, and the surviving lignified ones bloom. The inflorescences of my viburnum Buldenezh are still little formed. But I am very pleased with her beautiful white balls, like a hydrangea.
This spring I decided to propagate my viburnum - I made a layering. The rooted young plant was planted by the fence in a place protected from the wind. I will shape this seedling as a standard tree and hope to someday see it blooming in all its glory!
Unfortunately, we have problems with the acquisition of planting material adapted to local conditions. We live in a village that can only be reached by plane and river. It is located far from large cities, where it would be possible to buy local seedlings or flower seedlings on time, if necessary. Therefore, you have to pre-register the desired plants via the Internet or mail, grow your seedlings.
I order flowers and seeds for vegetables. Usually I make orders in Chelyabinsk (the company "Sady Rossii"), I also prefer "Gavrish", "World of Hobbies" (they send very high-quality goods). I buy seeds from Agros (Novosibirsk), mainly foreign-bred tomatoes. Next season, on the recommendation of an agronomist from Agros, I want to try to sow Pink Unicum tomatoes for seedlings.
My dream is to find seeds and grow a Typhoon petunia, as well as sow a polyanthus rose.
In the photo: tomatoes, petunia, bell
I read the advice of agronomists and experienced gardeners about growing different plants, and then I wonder how this is suitable for northern conditions. I am gaining practical experience in gardening.
I start sowing seedlings after the 2nd decade of March. Initially, young plants live at home on the windows. Then we prepare a warm bed for them in the garden from purchased manure used as biofuel. As soon as the manure starts to "burn", I apply the earth. I move all the seedlings from home to a ready-made greenhouse, to a built warm bed. We put arcs and cover the greenhouse with thick aggregate, and on top with a film.
After a few days, it can be seen that in the greenhouse the plants come to life and start growing. And by the time of landing in the ground, everything is already becoming strong, lush, and gives hope for a good result. The successful development of plants shows that I am doing everything right.
But possible unfavorable weather can then make its own adjustments, because return spring frosts on the soil occur until June 10. Therefore, you have to take risks with the plants planted in the garden, under the shelter of agril. First, I plant more hardy species (aster, rudbeckia, etc.). And by June 1, I plant everything else, also with great risk ...
Annual asters also sow before winter - they turn out healthier than grown seedlings, blooming a little later than them. But this is even good: when the early seedling asters fade, the ones sown before winter continue to bloom (although, according to the observations of experts, the asters sown before winter should not lag behind the seedlings in development and flowering).
All right on the edge of winter is always harsh. I try to protect each garden plant in the fall from the coming cold weather. I cover the peonies with rotted manure for the winter. I sprinkle delphiniums and other perennials with foliage. Thanks to our snowy winters, garden plants survive, although frosts are -40 degrees and below.
My favorite lilies
There are many different varieties of lilies growing in my garden. I think that for our northern conditions, lilies are what you need: unpretentious (especially Asian hybrids), grateful beauties!
I also have O oriental hybrids, but they require increased attention from the gardener (but they deserve it!).
Especially impressive are the spectacular OT hybrids - those powerful varieties that are called "lily-trees" - indeed, there is something to see ....
My dream is to plant an Asiatic Marlene lily in my garden, which simultaneously opens up to a hundred flowers.
Even in our difficult northern conditions, all these lilies grow and bloom beautifully.
Bulbs In the eastern bank of the river from autumn dampness. After the first frost, I cover the planting of lilies with fallen leaves or peat. And hardy "Asians" do not freeze out even without shelter.
Problems of growing roses
Roses require special trouble from northerners. There are two of them in my flower garden - park and climbing.
You have to deal with roses regularly: treat bushes from diseases and protect them from pests, feed them during growth and flowering, and most importantly, successfully preserve roses during the wintering period and not ruin the bushes in early spring.
In the fall, before the first frosts, I treat roses from pests (Fufanon) and from diseases (Bordeaux liquid), I spud the bases of the bushes with dry sand.
At a negative temperature (-4 ... -5 degrees) I put the shoots of a climbing rose on spruce branches; I also cover them on top with spruce branches, and then with cardboard and a thick cellophane film.
The main concern in the spring is to drop snow from the film and open the shelter in time when the above-zero temperatures are established, otherwise the successfully overwintered shoots of a climbing rose can vanish (if not completely, then partially). When this happens, you have to cut out some of the shoots, which negatively affects the further flowering of the climbing rose. Incompletely ripe rose shoots die during the wintering period unambiguously.
Despite these difficulties, I still manage to preserve my climbing rose in winter. I don’t know its grade; it does not bloom very abundantly, but beautifully. And the height of her bush is not high for a climbing rose due to the forced spring pruning of shoots. Our northern summer is too short for growing delicate heat-loving roses.
Restoration and reproduction of a park rose
The park rose in my garden lives for three years. Such a story happened to her.
In the first year, in the fall, I did not cover it for the winter (since park roses, as you know, are very winter-hardy). To my chagrin, in the spring the park rose bush did not come to life ...
He had no signs of life until the end of July, and then suddenly a sprout appeared from the ground!
I let this shoot grow up. Then she dug up a dead park rose bush and separated this sprout from it, already with its roots. I put it in a pot, brought it home.
Throughout the winter, the rose shoot grew slowly. I pinched it to form a bush.
By the spring, I removed the cuttings from this rose bush.
I set the cuttings of the rose to root in water with the addition of heteroauxin. Soon, two cuttings of a park rose took root, and with the onset of warmth, I planted them in the garden.
Large bushes of roses with a height of about 1.5 m grew from these cuttings, and how abundantly they bloomed! Unfortunately, I have not preserved photographs of the roses blooming. You can compare their magnificent flowering, perhaps, with the famous climbing rose of the "Flamentanz" variety
After this incident, I decided to make a winter shelter for my park roses as well.
In the fall, I cut off all the flowers from the shoots of park roses before wintering. Then she covered it like a climbing rose.
Rooting cuttings of a canadian rose in the fall in water
In September of this year (2011), a friend gave me three cuttings from her Canadian rose (variety "David Thompson"), resistant to winter cold. This beautiful variety blooms in her garden magnificently and continuously, forming pink inflorescences-bouquets.
I also put the presented cuttings of a Canadian rose for rooting in water (with the addition of "Kornevin").
Surprisingly, they began to grow and take root very quickly. Soon two cuttings of a Canadian rose took root!
I planted young plants in pots until spring. And now, in November, these developing cuttings of roses have already begun to define bushes ...
During the long northern winters, I often and with pleasure look at photographs of my blooming and fruitful garden. And in the spring I look forward to the appearance of each sprout and frankly rejoice if the wintering of the plants was successful and I managed to grow something new!
I wish all gardeners success and good health!
Alexandra Medvedeva (Khanty-Mansiysk district)
Floriculture: Pleasure and Benefit
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KOZLOVA NATALIA, Arkhangelsk
I live in the north of Russia - in the city of Arkhangelsk, I planted my first rose bushes 9 years ago, now I can't imagine my life without roses. With a smile, I remember my first attempts to grow roses on my site, then I did not have the Internet and generally no experience in gardening and floriculture. I began to buy and read magazines, and with the advent of the Internet in the house, I mastered ordering seedlings through Internet stores, since garden roses were not sold in our city. I also made a lot of rose-grower friends from other cities.
Thus, I have gained my own experience, which now allows me to keep a collection of roses that is quite large for a small garden, which includes varieties from English, German, French and Italian nurseries.
I am no longer afraid of the difficulties associated with caring for roses, and I can afford a richer choice than winter-hardy varieties of hybrid rose hips, including. varieties of Canadian selection and other winter-hardy, low-troublesome groups of roses, although some of them also grow in my garden and are no less loved.
Unfortunately, I do not have a professional camera, I shoot with an ordinary digital camera, so I apologize in advance for the low quality of the pictures.
In the pictures (in order from left to right, in accordance with the picture numbers; picture numbers are visible when you hover the cursor):
... Alexandra Princesse de Luxembourg
... William Shakespeare 2000 and Charlotte.
11-12... Yellow-purple rose garden.
13-14... Orange-peach rose garden.
... Austin purple roses.
16-19... Rose gardens on the lawn.
... Barock.
... Rose garden on the lawn.
... Charles de Nervaux.
... Goldmarie 82 on the trunk.
... Grace and Lady Emma Hamilton.
... Jean Cocteau.
7-8... Marie Curie.
... Tatton.
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