Can tomatoes and cucumbers be grown in the same greenhouse?

The presence of only one greenhouse on the site forces gardeners to use it to the maximum, jointly growing cucumbers and tomatoes. As you know, experts do not recommend combining these vegetables, since they require the creation of different growing conditions, and current reviews demonstrate that their joint cultivation is quite possible. What are the pros and cons of cultivating cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse, this article will help you figure it out.

Features of growing tomatoes

Tomatoes grow well in polycarbonate greenhouses if they are provided with the following conditions:

1. Tomatoes prefer dry air and regular ventilation. With high humidity or lack of air circulation, flowers on tomato bushes are not pollinated, and, accordingly, the fruits are not tied.

Greenhouse tomatoes need dry air and ventilation

Attention! You can provide the air circulation necessary for tomatoes by creating a draft in the greenhouse. To do this, you should keep open not only the vents, but also both doors, without closing them even at night, if the nights are warm.

2. Optimum temperature - + 22-25 ° C.

3. Tomatoes need rare but abundant watering. The best time to water is in the morning. It is recommended to use only warm water for irrigation. Tomato bushes should be watered exclusively at the root, allowing the soil to get wet well to a depth of 25 cm. The optimal volume is 10 liters per 1 m2.

Attention! During watering, water is not allowed on the leaves; sprinkling is also contraindicated for tomatoes. Violation of these conditions leads to the development of fungal diseases, and waterlogging of the soil makes the taste of tomatoes watery and sour.

4. To reduce the amount of watering and protect tomato bushes from weeds and fungal diseases, it is recommended to cover the soil with compost, sawdust or newspapers.

A bed of cucumbers can be placed between two beds of tomatoes

5. To ensure maximum pollination of tomato flowers, it is recommended to regularly ventilate the greenhouse, and shake the tomato brushes by tapping on the stakes to which the bushes are tied. The treatment of blooming tomatoes with the "Ovary" preparation will ensure the abundant formation of the tomato ovary.

6. Tomatoes grown in the greenhouse are recommended to be fed at least 3 times per season. The first time - during the period of bud formation, using bird droppings or complex mineral fertilizers for this. The second time is when the second tomato brush blooms. The third time - when the third brush blooms.

Attention! When feeding, it is better to give preference to potash and phosphorus fertilizers, while it is better to underfeed the tomatoes than to overfeed, otherwise the bushes will grow large and powerful, and the fruits will not fill well.

When grown together in a greenhouse, cucumbers and tomatoes are best tied up

Features of growing cucumbers

Cucumbers grow well in both film and polycarbonate greenhouses. You can get a high yield of cucumbers if you create the following conditions for plants in greenhouses:

one.Sprinkle and water frequently - daily or every other day. On hot days, to increase humidity, you can also pour water over the walls of the greenhouse and paths, while closing the doors and vents for a couple of hours. This will create a greenhouse effect for cucumbers.

2. The optimum air humidity for cucumbers is 87-90%, the temperature is + 20-25 ° C, during the fruiting period it can rise to + 30 ° C.

Greenhouse cucumbers need frequent watering

3. Top dressing of cucumbers should be carried out up to 5 times per season. To feed them, at the stage of shoot development, preference should be given to nitrogen fertilizers, during flowering - phosphorus, and during fruiting - nitrogen-potassium. Like tomatoes, it is better not to feed cucumbers than to overfeed.

Attention! Cucumbers also respond well to organic and humic fertilization.

4. Airing for cucumbers should be minimized.

5. When the shoots reach a length of 30 cm, the cucumber bushes should be tucked up, and the shoots themselves should be pinned to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots. Over time, the shoots that have borne fruit are also subject to removal.

Another placement option is dividing the greenhouse in half.

6. You can increase the amount of ovary on cucumbers if you treat the plants with special preparations "Bud" and "Ovary".

Attention! When growing in a greenhouse bee-pollinated varieties and hybrids of cucumbers, in order to attract bees, you should open the doors and vents in the greenhouse and feed them with sugar syrup infused with the corollas of male cucumber flowers.

Features of co-location

When growing tomatoes and cucumbers together, it is important to place them in such a way in the greenhouse so that the most suitable conditions for each of the vegetable crops are created. For cucumbers - a warm and humid microclimate, for tomatoes - a well-ventilated, dry and warm microclimate. This can be done in two ways.

1. In the first version, 3 beds are broken in the greenhouse, at least 60 cm wide, between which passages should be arranged. The middle bed is reserved for cucumbers, so a trellis of stakes and a special plastic net for climbing plants should be built on it. The side beds are intended for tomatoes. In order to provide sufficient lighting for the plants with this method of joint cultivation in the greenhouse, it is recommended to use low-growing varieties and hybrids of tomatoes - determinant ones with different ripening periods. As tomato bushes grow, they can be tied to stakes.

When growing together, the yield of one of the crops will have to be sacrificed

The air humidity in the greenhouse should be kept at a compromise value for both plants - 70%, daytime temperature - at + 25 ° C, night - + 19 ° C.

2. In the second version, the greenhouse can be divided into 2 parts, fencing off between themselves with a double curtain made of film, and the vegetables can be planted on opposite beds. This technique will create optimal conditions for each type of vegetables separately. For the tomato half, it is better to choose a greenhouse area with a large number of vents and closer to the exit. By choosing this method of co-cultivation, you can use tall tomatoes for cultivation in a greenhouse.

The disadvantages of co-cultivation include the need to select a priority plant. When creating optimal conditions for tomatoes, cucumber fruits will have voids, their yield will be much lower. When creating optimal conditions for cucumbers, tomato bushes can be affected by late blight, flowers are poorly pollinated, and yields can decrease.

Cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse are prone to common diseases

When grown together, tomatoes and cucumbers can be affected by common pests and diseases:

• anthracnose;
• mosaic;
• tick;
• aphids;
• thrips;
• whitefly;
• cicadas.

As you can see, tomatoes and cucumbers are not the best neighbors to each other, as they have different growing conditions, but still their joint cultivation is quite possible if you create more or less suitable conditions for each plant, using specially arranged partitions with separate entrances for this.

Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse - video

Cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse - photo

The combination "cucumbers-tomatoes"For the vast majority of people, it is familiar and connected
with their frequent joint stay in fresh salads and winter preparations. It has already become a kind of "vegetable classic".

The question of whether it is possible to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse worries many. Is there any benefit from the close proximity of these crops in gardening? How to be if the greenhouse is alone, but you want to get a harvest of both those and other vegetables?

…

Long road to popularity

In any living organism, be it a plant or an animal, nature has a certain genetic code that determines its properties and requirements for the environment.

Breeding work with seed material carried out for many decades has made it possible to change and improve the appearance and taste of vegetables.

But it is very rarely given the opportunity to change their requirements for the growing environment, although some plants can adapt to changing conditions in nature through mutational processes.

Hot India with high air humidity - homeland of cucumber... In the wild, it still grows in those places.

Images of a cucumber have been found on frescoes in Ancient Egypt and Greek temples. A vegetable known in such ancient times in other countries in Russia was first mentioned in printed sources in the 16th century.

Presumably, the cucumber came to us from East Asia, but it tasted amazingly and became a truly national product.

Bountiful harvests of cucumbers are grown in most of the country - in greenhouses and on the ground. And then, with love and diligence, cucumbers are harvested for eating all year round.

Wild tomatoes were first discovered in South America during the expedition of Christopher Columbus, and their seeds were brought to Europe because of the decorativeness of the bushes. At home, tomato thickets were found on dry and ventilated mountain slopes. The climate of those places was ideal for tomatoes - mild, temperate, with occasional heavy rains. The 24-hour temperature ranged from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.

REFERENCE: In Holland, France and Germany, tomatoes were grown in the greenhouses of wealthy people, landed for decoration in gardens and near gazebos. Their fruits were considered poisonous. And only in 1811, the German Botanical Dictionary posted on its pages information that tomatoes can be eaten.

Tomato seeds came to Russia under Catherine II, but only at the beginning of the 19th century they began to be grown in the southern regions of the country as edible crop and get good harvests.

Photo

In the photo below you can see cucumbers and tomatoes in one polycarbonate greenhouse:

Capricious neighbors

If there is only one greenhouse, but really want to get a harvest of those and other favorite vegetables, the desire to experiment often wins. Desperate summer residents and gardeners boldly divide the greenhouse area into two adjacent zones and plant tomato seedlings on one, and cucumber seedlings on the other. What is the compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse? Let's try to answer this question.

During the summer, both crops in a polycarbonate greenhouse receive the same care and grow in the same microclimate with the same conditions. With special diligence, the owners do not remain without a crop, but they will not have to be called abundant.

The reason for this is all the same genetics, which requires different conditions for each type of vegetables close to those in which their distant wild relatives once grew.

For cucumbers the optimal conditions for favorable growth will be a hot atmosphere, with high, up to 90-100% humidity.

Drafts are detrimental to this culture. Moreover, wet "bath" procedures significantly increase the yield of cucumbers. To do this, in warm weather, the bushes are well shed under the root and over the leaves, the paths and walls of the greenhouse are abundantly watered.

Then the doors are tightly closed and withstand this mode for 1-1.5 hours, after which the greenhouse is opened for ventilation. The leaves of cucumbers are very large, such procedures allow them to safely cope with the evaporation of moisture, preventing drying out.

With insufficient moisture, cucumbers grow tasteless, ugly in shape.

Tomatoes feel better in a different microclimate. Like their cousins ​​in the wild, they prefer low humidity, 40 to 60%. They are very fond of airing.

Watering tomatoes is enough on average 2 times a week. In a too humid environment, the pollen in the flowers sticks together, the fruits in the brushes are not tied. The consequence of high humidity in the greenhouse is always the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases of tomatoes.

The yield of vegetables decreases, the taste of the fruits deteriorates, and cracks appear on them.

With such different requirements, any compromise will mean a situation where both sides lose, so it is worth trying to change the conditions by setting up separate zones in capital greenhouses.

Divide living space: growing cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse

Divide the greenhouse into two parts you can partitions from slate, plastic curtains, plywood. Cucumbers are planted in the far "room" where the window is located. Here they will be protected from drafts, it will be possible to provide them with high humidity.

Tomatoes will be planted in the square near the greenhouse door. It is possible by keeping the door open at all times to maintain a relatively low humidity and temperature in the greenhouse.

In order to prevent water from flowing from one section to another, it will be necessary to make a barrier to separate the soil to a depth.

Now you can pamper tomato bushes with good feeding, which they love very much. This is especially true for tall varieties of tomatoes.

For cucumbers in a personal "room" abundant water treatments and high humidity are provided without much harm to neighbors. And tomatoes - generous watering with warm water, strictly under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves.

For lovers of the process itself, working with plants, planting tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse will bring pleasure even if the vegetable harvest is not huge.

The most important thing is that with any method, there will be pimpled green cucumbers and poured raspberry tomatoes in the basket.

ATTENTION: Experienced gardeners, determined to get the best yield possible, will adhere to strict rules to create optimal conditions for each crop. They will grow all vegetables in a separate greenhouse unless they need the same environment for growth. For example, the same cucumbers and bell peppers or melon. Or tomatoes and various green vegetables.

So, is it possible to plant cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse? The answer to the question of how to plant, when to plant, as well as the decision of which method of growing cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse to choose, whether it will be joint or not, remains the right of every gardener. If fussing in the garden is more desirable than the opportunity to get more harvest - experiments are just for you!

Useful video

A video about growing cucumbers and tomatoes in a greenhouse, see below:

We devote a lot of time and effort to caring for plants so that they please us with their harvest or beauty (if they are ornamental plants). We try to take into account all their whims and needs, but sometimes we have to raise them in not the best conditions. So, it has been said many times that cucumbers and tomatoes need different greenhouses.But what if you simply cannot place two greenhouses on your site? We'll have to somehow reconcile these two vegetables and teach them to live together in one greenhouse (if it's real). So is it possible to plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse or still not?

The fact is that each of these plants has its own requirements for humidity, lighting and ventilation, for temperature and watering, and even for fertilizers.

The main features of growing cucumbers

• Cucumbers are very moisture-loving plants.

• Watering cucumbers in the greenhouse should be frequent and abundant, not forgetting to spray the leaves. Optimum humidity should be between 85% and 90%.
• Water for watering cucumbers should be warm and, if possible, settled.
• Cucumbers are not very fond of, and they do not really need ventilation.
• The optimum temperature for growing this vegetable crop is + 200C + 220C for seedlings, and + 250C + 280C since the formation of the first ovaries.
• Cucumbers are very responsive to nitrogen fertilization. What do cucumbers need? They need a sufficient amount of moisture, which is why they are often and abundantly watered. In addition, this vegetable needs leaf spraying. That is, they love moisture, moist air and soil.
  

  Characteristic features of cultivation

  tomatoes in greenhouses

1. Watering tomatoes is rarely carried out, but quite abundantly. At the same time, trying to water "at the root".
2. The most favorable temperature for fruiting tomatoes is the temperature + 220С + 250С.
3. Tomatoes love that the humidity of both the air and the soil is not very high. The most favorable for them is air humidity within 45% -60%... If the air humidity exceeds these values, then pollination of flowers occurs worse, and the quantity and quality of the crop is significantly reduced.
4. For the normal growth and development of tomatoes, frequent and constant ventilation is necessary.
5. Tomatoes are responsive to the introduction of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers into the soil, nitrogen fertilizers are not as important for them as for cucumbers.

   And what about tomatoes? They don't like this humidity. For tomatoes, the ideal is not 90%, as for cucumbers, but only 45-50%. If it is higher, pollination will worsen, and the harvest will be worse. And this is not to mention late blight, gray rot and powdery mildew, which will immediately appear with an increase in humidity.

Important: an increase in air humidity in the greenhouse over 60% can lead to the development of tomato diseases such as late blight, brown spot, powdery mildew and gray rot.

Important: Co-grown vegetables can be affected by common pests such as mites and whiteflies. In addition, viruses of both tomato and cucumber mosaic can be transferred from diseased plants to healthy ones through hands or untreated tools, as well as by insects such as thrips, aphids, cicadas and whiteflies.

Having considered the basic requirements for growing conditions for cucumbers and tomatoes, it becomes clear that growing tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse quite problematic. Nevertheless, it is still possible to combine the incompatible, there are several options for solving this problem.

Grow tomatoes and cucumbers together

Cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse The simplest and most affordable solution to the problem when cucumbers and tomatoes grow in the same greenhouse, will be simple physical separation of cultures.

Sharing cultures

The physical separation of vegetable crops such as cucumbers and tomatoes means creating the microclimate necessary for each crop. To do this, many gardeners allocate a certain part of the greenhouse for tomatoes, and fence it off from the "cucumber" part with a film or oilcloth. Thanks to this, it will be possible to control the humidity of the air when growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse.

Video: Growing cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse

Tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse

In order to control soil moisture and fertilization applied for different crops, it is also necessary to divide the soil surface. So, between tomatoes and cucumbers, you can dig in sheets of old roofing material or iron, which will prevent excessive waterlogging of the soil in the "tomato" part of the greenhouse, and will allow you to give the required amount of water to the cucumbers.

When highlighting this or that part of the greenhouse for tomatoes, it should be remembered that they are very fond of airing. Because of this, the more vents or opening segments there are in their "compartment", the better.

So, in order to separate tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse, you need:

1. Make separate entrances to the "rooms" of each culture from the end sides.
2. Provide a larger number of ventilation vents in the "tomato" compartment.
3. Create a barrier between tomatoes and cucumbers at the soil level so that excess moisture from the cucumbers does not flow to the tomatoes.
4. Hang the transparent film, from the floor to the top of the greenhouse, in order to create the optimal microclimate for each crop.

If it is supposed plant tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, then you can plant them on opposite ridges. In this case, there will be no problems with soil moisture, and the suspended film will help withstand the air humidity required for each of the crops.

Another split option

A number of sources suggest the following method physical separation of cultures: in a greenhouse located from west to east and having two doors on opposite sides, three beds are formed:

• northern, the coolest and dampest - for cucumbers;
• central, the most ventilated - for tomatoes;
• southern, the sunniest and hottest - for peppers.

  Growing three crops in one greenhouse

Which "neighbor" is better for cucumbers?

In the event that, in addition to the greenhouse, you also have a greenhouse on the site, then it may be better to plant peppers and cucumbers in the same greenhouse, and leave the greenhouse for tomatoes and eggplants.

The fact is that, like cucumbers, peppers love high humidity and air temperature, and do not often prefer to "ventilate". Like cucumbers, peppers "like" high air humidity -70%-80%, and high soil moisture, about 60% and fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers, although it also needs phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Thus, if you do not have the opportunity to "breed" tomatoes and cucumbers in different greenhouses and greenhouses, then you can grow them in one. It is only important to divide them among themselves so that each vegetable crop can grow and develop in the conditions necessary for it.

If there is both a greenhouse and a greenhouse on the site, then it is better to grow tomatoes and eggplants or watermelons in the greenhouse, and plant peppers and cucumbers in the greenhouse. That is, plants with similar needs should be combined into separate groups.

Video: Joint cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse

Joint cultivation of tomatoes and cucumbers in a greenhouse. Master gardener.

Source

Content:

• Tomatoes and cucumbers - in the same greenhouse
• Cucumbers in the greenhouse: instead of frequent watering - hydrogel
• Greenhouse cucumber mulch
• How to plant tomatoes in the same greenhouse with cucumbers
• How to mulch the ground in a greenhouse under tomatoes

Can tomatoes and cucumbers grow in the same greenhouse? Do I need to partition it off, dividing it into zones, or can you just plant tomato and cucumber seedlings in different beds? This question worries many gardeners on the eve of the new summer cottage season. Indeed, on 6 acres it is difficult to place more than one standard size greenhouse. What to do?

I use my greenhouse to its fullest, as they say. In one greenhouse I grow cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, parsley, dill, onions, radishes, lettuce, basil, marjoram. In addition, in it I grow cabbage, beet, annual flowers seedlings, and even plant early carrots and beets in it.

Of course, I do not sow and plant all this at the same time, there is a kind of conveyor.It is best to do compact plantings so that when the main plants have grown up and they would need more space, the earlier crops would already be used by you in one way or another. In addition, when planting a greenhouse tightly, plant compatibility must be taken into account.

Today I will tell you about how tomatoes and cucumbers coexist in my greenhouse (arched 3 m wide and almost 6 m long).

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Tomatoes and cucumbers - in the same greenhouse

All the books talk about the fact that cucumbers need moist air and moist soil, and tomatoes need dry air and moderately moist soil. I live in the North-West, and here the air humidity is almost always 70-80%, so tomatoes have to put up with this, and gardeners have to take some tricks to help them.

In addition, the books claim that cucumbers are afraid of drafts, they de cause stem rot disease. However, for cucumbers, it turns out, drafts are not so terrible as stagnant air. It is he who causes the disease with rot. Therefore, air the greenhouses through as required by tomatoes, and do not worry about cucumbers.

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Cucumbers in the greenhouse: instead of frequent watering - hydrogel

Now about watering cucumbers. If you water them daily, moisture from the soil will evaporate intensively, increasing the already high humidity in the greenhouse. But this can be avoided by reducing the number of waterings. The hydrogel, which I have been using every year for almost 10 years, helps me with this.

This is a polymer crumb that swells 300 times when soaked in water! Having swollen, it retains moisture in itself, preventing it from evaporating from the surface of the soil and going deep into it, and therefore the moisture goes exclusively to the roots, which suck it as needed. After all, it is well known that when irrigated, plants manage to capture only 25% of the water poured under them, and the rest goes down or evaporates from the soil surface. That is, when watering, we are wasting time and energy by three quarters. Hydrogel, as a true polymer material, decomposes into carbon dioxide and water during oxidation, therefore, not only does it harm the soil, but, on the contrary, is very useful.

How to use the hydrogel - and not just in the greenhouse? In the evening, fill the crumb with water about 300 times more than the mass of the crumb itself. So, for 3 liters of water, you will need only 10 g (usually one sachet) of hydrogel. When planting for each plant, you will need about half a glass of ready-made gel (that is, 100 ml), so this bag will be enough for you to plant 30 plants.

If you grow cucumber seedlings, when planting it in a greenhouse, add half a glass of hydrogel directly to the hole and plant cucumber seedlings (or any other seedlings) on it. If you do not grow cucumber seedlings, and this is reasonable, then after adding the hydrogel to the well, sprinkle it with 4–5 cm of soil on top and then sow the seeds. The fact is that if you put the seeds directly into the hydrogel, it will be tantamount to putting them in water for 5-7 days - they can simply rot or suffocate due to lack of air.

The hydrogel can be dissolved not in water, but in a weak solution of mineral or organic fertilizers. In this case, you at the same time get rid of one more work - feeding the cucumbers. As an organic fertilizer (and at the same time improving the soil) I use a joint solution of Fitosporin and Gumi, and as a mineral fertilizer, either the organo-mineral fertilizer (OMU) of the Buisk Mineral Fertilizer Plant, or the powder fraction of the unique AVA fertilizer.

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Greenhouse cucumber mulch

How else can you make your work easier when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse if you couldn't get a hydrogel? Immediately after germination, mulch (cover) the soil under the plants with mowed grass or weeds with a layer of 8-10 cm and regularly add this litter, because, when it dries, it settles heavily, but it is necessary that the mulch layer remains approximately the same thickness, that is, 8– 10 cm.

What happens then? Moisture does not evaporate from the soil, and therefore watering will have to be done much less often. In addition, the constantly decaying lower part of the mulch generates heat (and the roots of cucumbers, like all pumpkin crops, love warm soil) and gives the root system fresh food.

In addition, from the top layer of organic green mass, the water under the cucumbers will partially evaporate into the air directly under each plant and at the same time create the same humid microclimate that cucumbers love so much. But since this moisture is not enough for it to spread throughout the greenhouse, it will not be able to harm the tomatoes growing in the neighboring garden, in which excessive air humidity contributes to the appearance of late blight, and even worse - harmful brown leaf spot.

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How to plant tomatoes in the same greenhouse with cucumbers

And what to do with tomatoes? And do nothing. But when planting, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate must be added to the hole. It is known to be poorly soluble in water. So let it dissolve, enough for a long time. I also bring in a handful of feathers from an old feather pillow. What for? The fact is that feathers, fluff, wool, hair, horns and hooves are almost entirely composed of silicon.

Sand, of course, is practically pure silicon, but unlike the above, it is very slowly processed by a small group of microorganisms - stone-eaters, and therefore silicon - sand - is practically not assimilated by plants. But down-feather and its relatives are famously processed by soil bacteria, so the plants receive silicon all season - starting almost from the moment of transplanting seedlings.

Silicon strengthens the walls of vascular vessels in plants. This makes them resistant to all kinds of damage, including those caused by pathogens, and the trunks and stems themselves are strong. It is interesting that by the end of the season there is not even a trace of these feathers, microorganisms are so willing to process them, and the silicon released by them is absorbed by the plants.

It is not required to add hydrogel under the tomatoes, because they can generally not be watered all season, regardless of the weather. If you don't believe it, check it out. But when planting, at least 5 liters of warm water must first be poured into each hole for tall varieties or hybrids and at least 3 liters for determinant undersized ones. Plant the seedlings immediately and immediately mulch the soil under the tomatoes with newspapers folded in several layers.

What does it do? The water, together with a part of the mineral fertilizer, will begin to go down. And in pursuit of them, the roots of tomatoes will begin to grow down. It is only necessary when picking - their first transplant - not to cut off the tip of the central root, as is usually recommended by different authors.

The branching root grows in all directions in search of food and water, that is, it spreads close to the surface. Such a root system makes the plant dependent - dependent, it has to be watered often. But after all, the root system of a tomato, unlike the root system of a cucumber, is capable of deeply penetrating the soil (at least 1.5 m), and there is almost always moisture there (with the exception of sandy soils, but this is a special case).

So the tomato is able to take care of itself. And for this you do not need to cut off the tip of the central root from it. We do not need the root to branch, we need it to grow downward, and since the tips of the roots have a special property, say, a "scent" for food and water, the central root will grow down, where the water and food rushed, and branch will also gradually be there, in the depths, and not under the surface itself.

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How to mulch the ground in a greenhouse under tomatoes

What does newspaper mulching give? It blocks the possibility of moisture evaporation from the surface, thus, firstly, it retains moisture in the soil, and secondly, the air around each plant remains drier than when you mulch the soil with green organic matter. I conducted this experiment. When I mulched the soil with green organic matter in a humid summer, the tomatoes got sick with late blight, but literally nearby, mulched with newspapers, did not.

There is one more nuance here. The fact is that the causative agent of the fungal disease of tomato late blight lives in the soil, like most causative agents of plant diseases.Organic mulch, if it is less than 7–8 cm thick, is not an obstacle to the germination of fungal spores to the surface from which they scatter, falling on the leaves (you, of course, noticed that late blight primarily affects the lower leaves). And several layers of paper, laid on the soil, block the mushroom spores from flying out.

I have been growing tomatoes in this way for many years, and even in the coldest and wettest summer my tomatoes do not get sick with late blight, although I do not do any special prophylaxis against it, except that I spill the soil well with a solution of Fitosporin and Gumi before planting. But I do this not only in the greenhouse, but also on all the beds and under all the plantings twice a year. In the spring, as soon as the soil allows sowing and planting, and in the fall - immediately after harvesting.

We will tell you about how to grow peppers and eggplants in the same greenhouse next time.

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