Is it possible to grow a hydrangea at home?

Flowers can beautify any home and garden interior. One of these plants is hydrangea. Its name, translated from Latin, means "yearning for water." The plant reaches a stem length of one or more meters in height, ending in round caps of inflorescences. Blooms from April to November.

In order for a flower to please the eye with its appearance, you need to know how to care for a hydrangea. Otherwise, instead of bright buds, only yellow leaves will remain on it.

Hydrangea - types and varieties of indoor plants

Hydrangea is classified into many varieties and several main types. Each of them differs not only in the color of the flowers, but also in their arrangement on the inflorescence.

Depending on the type of inflorescences, the plant is:

1. Hydrangea. It is a shrub that can reach a height of 1 to 3 meters. The leaves are large, green above and slightly gray below. Flowers form balls, reaching a diameter of about 20 cm. They have a white or milky shade. The bush is unpretentious in leaving.
2. Panicle hydrangea. It looks like a big shrub or even a tree. It can reach a height of 2 to 6 m. Leaves are elongated, young shoots quickly turn brown. This provides the plant with cold resistance. The inflorescences are a pyramid of beige or milky color, somewhat reminiscent of a panicle. By autumn, the flowers become more brown or reddish.
3. Large-leaved hydrangea. The average length of the bush is 1-2 m. This species is suitable for growing in home pots, because indoors it does not reach a height of more than half a meter. The leaves are large, and the shoots remain green for a long time. This explains the lack of resistance of this species to cold weather. Large-leaved hydrangea has the most varieties that differ in shade and flower shape.

Home-grown varieties:

• Mme E. Moullere;
• Soeur Therese;
• Goliath;
• Hamburg;
• Europe;
• Red sensation;
• Prima;
• Earley Blue;
• Ramars Mars.

Any of the species can be of different colors, this fact is directly affected by the composition of the soil. An acidic substrate determines the blue tint of the plant, an alkaline one provokes the appearance of a pinkish pigment, a neutral one gives a white or milky color.

Home care

Most often, hydrangea decorates street interiors. But also some species can be found in the premises of especially fastidious amateur flower growers. Caring for a plant at home is practically no different. Therefore, a flower needs to create a suitable microclimate in an apartment, provide it with “correct” soil and good watering.

Lighting and placement

Having enough light is one of the most important factors in plant growth. It is better to place the pot near the south window. There are most of all soft scattered sunlight. Hydrangea should not be placed on the windowsill; it is better to choose a place a couple of meters from the window and radiators.

The optimum temperature in the apartment is 20 degrees, for the winter it is necessary to remove the flower pot in a cold room up to 10 degrees. When new buds begin to appear on the hydrangea in February, it will be necessary to return it to its usual light and temperature conditions.

This is an important fact in flower care. If there is no full-fledged wintering, new inflorescences will not appear by spring.

Substrate requirements

The soil for the flower should be nutritious, light, have a suitable acidity, as well as water permeability. The plants feel most comfortable in a weak or medium-acidic substrate.

Periodically, you will need to fertilize the soil with organic acids. If done correctly, the color of the flowers can be regulated. Freshness of the soil in the pot is also a very important requirement in the care of a home shrub.

Earthen mixture consists of:

• loose soil;
• peat;
• sand;
• needles;
• humus.

All components will need to be taken in different proportions and pre-disinfected. To get rid of this step, you can purchase a ready-made soil suitable for azaleas.

Watering the plant

Hydrangea grows well with proper watering. The soil ball should be slightly damp. In summer, water often, in the off-season - in moderation, and in winter - no more than once a week. In addition, the inflorescences will need to be sprayed periodically. Once a month, it is important to water the flower with water acidified with a few drops of lemon.

How to properly prepare a liquid for watering hydrangea:

Set aside the water for 1-2 days, then strain and place in the freezer. After that, you will need to defrost the liquid, insist at room temperature and only then water the flower. Rainwater from ecologically clean areas is suitable.

Top dressing and fertilization

Fertilize and feed the flower will be required without fail. This must be done during active growth, as well as hydrangea flowering. In the autumn and winter periods until February, the plant is not fertilized. In the store you can buy a ready-made complex solution that is suitable for heather and azaleas.

How to cook it yourself:

For 2 liters of water, you need to take 10 alum to give the flowers a blue color. A small amount of lime in the soil will help grow a pink or purple plant.

Pruning and replanting

Home shrub pruning should be done twice a year. In the autumn season, it will be necessary to completely remove the weak shoots, and shorten the strong ones in half.This is necessary to prepare the plant for wintering.

Autumn pruning is required after flowering. In the spring, the longest shoots are pruned. So the hydrangea will look neat, delighting with its beautiful inflorescences.

How to care for hydrangea in autumn, winter?

Hydrangea care in autumn and winter is to prepare the flower for the cold season. It will be necessary to significantly reduce watering, and completely remove the fertilizer until February. For the plant, you need to pick up a dry, dark place with a temperature of up to 10 degrees above zero. By the end of winter, it is recommended to gradually introduce top dressing. Rest in the cold period is a prerequisite for the future flowering of hydrangeas.

Propagation of hydrangea

In order to get several similar plants from one bush of a beautiful flower at once, you need to reproduce it at home. This can be done in several ways at once. Most often, propagation by cuttings or by dividing the mother bush is used. But there is also growing hydrangeas from seeds.

Color reproduction options:

Cuttings

It is the most effective method for breeding hydrangeas at home. Cut the cuttings in January or February. Later cuttings will produce a single-stemmed shrub. Cuttings should be cut off from basal shoots about 8 cm long. Each of them should have no more than three internodes.

The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, the upper ones are shortened by 1/3. From below, they must be treated with a root growth stimulant, and then planted in soil with a predominance of peat and sand. The room temperature should reach 20 degrees, and the air humidity should be 80%.

The planted cuttings must be covered with a kind of greenhouse, for which you can use jars of suitable size. They must be removed every day to ventilate the plant. The soil for germination should always be slightly damp. Rooting takes place for about 4 weeks, after which the hydrangea is planted in a permanent pot no more than 9 cm in diameter.

Dividing the bush

The method is very simple, but you need to be careful. It is necessary to carry out division during transplantation. To do this, you need to divide a large bush into small daughter bushes, each of which must have the same number of roots.

The shoots and root system will need to be slightly shortened. Then you can plant the hydrangea in a permanent pot with suitable soil, water and sprinkle the top layer of the substrate with peat. Breeding in this way is best done in spring.

Growing from seeds

The method will require a lot of time and effort. For reproduction, you need to take soil in which leaves, sod and humus are present in equal proportions. Also, the soil should contain sand, peat. Plant the seeds on top of the substrate, cover with a glass container on top. The soil needs to be moistened daily.

The improvised greenhouse is removed when the first shoots appear. When two full-fledged leaves appear on new shoots, they are allowed to be transplanted into deeper containers with the same soil. When the seedlings are fully strengthened, they are planted in a permanent pot with a diameter of no more than 9 cm.

Protection against diseases and pests

To prevent pests from infecting the hydrangea, it must be properly looked after. If this does happen, you need to quarantine the flower and process it carefully.

Types of diseases and methods of combating them:

• gray rot - you will need to slightly reduce watering, and treat the flower with Bordeaux liquid;
• nematode stem or ring spot - requires the complete destruction of hydrangea;
• downy mildew - treat the plant with a fungicide or a compound containing copper;
• spider mites, aphids - removed with soapy water.

If necessary, you need to process all the plants that were adjacent to the infected flower.

The main problems in growing

If the indoor hydrangea does not please the owner with the splendor of its inflorescences and good growth, it can be assumed that there is no suitable care. Most of the problems appear due to diseases, improper watering, or lack of winter rest after flowering.

Hydrangea turns yellow, dries

The plant will dry out if there is insufficient watering or due to trauma to the roots during transplantation. Hydrangea is a rather finicky flower, so you need to constantly monitor the supply of sufficient moisture to the soil.

As a rule, with improper care, the leaves often turn yellow. This sign indicates an insufficient amount of liquid or nitrogen in the substrate, as well as a high concentration of alkali in the soil.

Leaves fall

Foliage falling off a small bush is due to insufficient watering. Initially, the leaves turn yellow, and then completely fall off the stem. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary not only to properly moisten the soil, but also to normalize the high humidity in the room. It should be about 75-80%.

The plant does not bloom

The lack of flowering in hydrangeas is due to insufficient winter rest. The plant does not have the strength to produce new flowers for the next year.

To prevent this from happening in the future, you will need to carefully prepare the green pet for wintering:

• remove the pot to a cool place for two winter months;
• cut off strong shoots, shorten half weak;
• before future flowering, it is necessary to prune young and long shoots again.

Use in landscape design

Garden hydrangea during flowering is able to decorate any landscape. But in order for it to look organic and grow well, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting in the garden.

How to design a landscape depending on the type of hydrangea:

1. Tree-like. It is unpretentious, grows equally well in the sun and in the shade. Looks nice along the fence, so it looks like a hedge. White flowers adorn the garden without being out of touch with the overall style. In addition, any other flowers can be planted next to the plant.
2. Paniculata. It survives the winter well, blooms very luxuriantly every year. It can be given both a bush and a standard shape. Looks beautiful at the entrance to the house. However, it must be borne in mind that this type of hydrangea is very fragile. Therefore, you should not plant it in places where melted snow can fall from the roof onto the branches. You will also need to carry out full pruning.
3. Large-leaved. It is a thermophilic species, therefore it requires shelter for the winter. Well suited for growing in containers that can be taken out to a seating area or terrace. For wintering, such a hydrangea must be carried away to a cool room.
4. Pereshkovaya. It is a vine, therefore it is suitable for landscaping vertical surfaces. It grows slowly, but then it becomes very heavy. This must be taken into account when choosing a landing site. In addition, petioled hydrangea cannot be used as a support for wooden walls, as the tree will rot very quickly.

Knowledge of all the basic rules for caring for a lush hydrangea will allow you to grow a full-fledged beautiful bush or even a tree from it, which, among other things, will delight the grower for many years.

Hydrangea is one of eighty species of flowering plants of the Hortensia family. The habitat in nature for this plant is a rather vast territory: North and South America, East and South Asia. From which it follows that there are an indescribable number of different species, for example, the jasmine hydrangea, which arrived in Europe from Asia and inherited a dependence on a humid climate and a lot of light. But the climbing hydrangea and the large-leaved hydrangea belong to the descendants of South American flowers, which are less prone to dependence on a constant humid climate, but they tolerate excessive sunlight much worse.

And even more subspecies, for example, Vanilla Fraz hydrangea with pale pink petals and a light creamy shade of inflorescences, Grandiflora hydrangea with magnificent beige and white flowers of rather large sizes, Nikko Blue hydrangea with mesmerizing blue and blue inflorescences.

It is worth mentioning that, despite the vast territory of distribution, this flower is a whimsical and demanding plant, caring for a home hydrangea will require endurance and compliance with a number of requirements. The merit of "domestication" is the painstaking work of European botanists and breeders of the 19th century. It has since become possible to use hydrangea as one of the many living elements of decorating the decor of a living space.

Variety of hydrangea varieties and home care

To date, there are more than 100 species of caring for a potted hydrangea that can grow and bloom at home. Each is unique and attractive in its own way. The color palette of hydrangea is indescribable varied. There are inflorescences of white, red, blue and pink flowers with all kinds of shades and undertones. Based on the preferred color of the inflorescence, varieties and a little care features will change.

Note that caring for a room hydrangea, caring for a tree hydrangea or caring for a large-leaved hydrangea may differ due to some peculiarities of the origin of plants. This article provides general guidelines.

First of all, it is worth strictly and carefully observing the mode of life of the flower, depending on the season and, in accordance with this, correctly adjust the watering, temperature, feeding and light regime. Particular attention should be paid to the flower during the period of bud formation and the cold season. She is spectacular and beautiful, but at the same time capricious and whimsical like a princess.

Lighting and ventilation at home

For flowers in a closed room, it is very important to find the "golden" line between a deficit and an overabundance of scorching sunlight and other sources of light. In case you need to achieve lush flowering and longevity of the plant, it is worth looking for a well-lit place, since hydrangea is demanding on an abundant amount of light. However, do not rush to empty the window sill on the south side of the house. After all, direct sunlight on the leaves is more harmful than good. The ideal solution would be to place the flowerpot a few meters from the south-facing window. In a place where good lighting prevails most of the day. If the windows in the house are oriented to the north or west, or for some reason there is not enough light in the living room, it is quite possible to put the hydrangea on the windowsill, and in especially difficult situations create artificial lighting from fluorescent lamps.

Hydrangea does not tolerate mustiness very well, so it is strongly recommended to air the room with the plant at least once a day. In the warm season, it is advisable to transfer the hydrangea to a loggia, balcony or to a garden in a place where there is no direct sunlight.

Temperature regime for the plant

For a lush flowering, as well as a long life of a hydrangea, a room and conditions of detention are necessary, under which the external air temperature does not exceed + 22C. If it is unacceptably high, then the flower will begin to shed its leaves, shrink and ultimately may die.

It is also necessary to maintain a fairly high air humidity, due to which the plant will develop and bloom with bright and colorful flowers. Sharp temperature changes and drafts, which can affect the rhythm of life for the worse, also adversely affect.

From about the end of autumn to February (depending on the individual conditions of development and the variety of the flower), the wintering period of the hydrangea begins.At this time of the year, it is advisable to transfer the plant to a room with a temperature close to +8 C, cut it by about three-fifths and, in the case of an open space (garden, balcony), carefully wrap it up with woven material. In February, the plant will awaken, and it will be necessary to transfer the flower to a warmer room.

Watering and feeding crops

This plant is very moisture-loving. In the spring, when hydrangea is after winter and cold weather, it is recommended to gradually increase the amount of liquid for watering. It is not necessary to abruptly flood the plant, the flower does not need additional feeding during this period.

In summer hydrangeas need plenty of water. It is especially important for such a moisture-dependent flower as large-leaved hydrangea: planting and caring for which initially presupposes a rather humid place and abundantly watered soil. Care must be taken to ensure that the soil around the flower is not dry. Also, do not abuse the plant's love for water and breed a swamp. It is optimal to water the plant as the top layer of soil in the pot dries slightly. Thus, the required amount of liquid is provided. Closer to autumn, the amount of water used for irrigation should be systematically reduced (do not sharply limit or sharply increase the amount of liquid entering the flower).

During the wintering period, you should only make sure that the soil does not dry out to the edge and does not turn into a dry earthen lump. It is recommended to limit the air humidity around the plant during the cold season.

The water, which is to be watered with hydrangea, should be soft and settled, preferably at room temperature, where the plant is located. In the summer, it is possible to add a small amount of lemon juice to the water for irrigation (about 5-7 drops per 1 liter of liquid). This will prevent yellowing of the foliage and provide a contrasting green color to the chloroplasts. An exception is caring for Anabel's hydrangea and caring for a petioled hydrangea, for them and flowers with white and cream inflorescences, the presence of acidic water can be destructive and can disrupt the flowering cycle. For this type, soft settled water at room temperature is acceptable.

Top dressing is carried out, as a rule, in the warmer months of the year (May - August). Twice a week, the soil near the plant is watered with a solution of 3 g of potassium sulfate, 4 g of superphosphate, 3 g of ammonium nitrate per liter of liquid. From mid-August, feeding must be stopped. Since it is during this period, in view of the termination of the vegetative growth of the plant, flower buds will be laid. And it will be necessary to remove weak shoots and root growth.

Transplant is the key to the beauty and longevity of hydrangea

For longevity and abundant beautiful flowering of hydrangeas, it will be necessary to carry out an annual transplant.

It is desirable that the soil consists of sand, leafy earth and turf in proportions of 1: 3: 3. You can also use the following composition: sand, peat, leafy soil and sod soil in a ratio of 0.5: 1: 1: 2. Contrary to popular belief, it is not recommended to use humus.

An interesting fact is one property of this plant. If the ground is acidic, it will cause blooming of blue or pale blue flowers. In the case of soil neutral in acidity, the flowers acquire shades of white and beige during the flowering period. Alkaline soil is acceptable for those looking for red or pink flowers. However, for a lush bloom of a flower, caring for a blue hydrangea requires regular replenishment of the soil, slightly acidic water. This hydrangea care is especially relevant in the spring, when it is gaining strength after "hibernation".

When choosing a pot, it is worth considering the structure of the hydrangea root system, which, due to its growth, requires a large space in the horizontal projection. In other words, the pot should be open and wide.It is desirable that the volume of the new pot is one and a half to two times larger than the old one.

To minimize possible damage to the root system, the transplant itself is carried out by the method of plant transshipment. A thick (about 15 mm) drainage layer is mandatory. This is followed by a layer of earthen mixture, the composition of which is specified above. Next, the arrangement of the flower itself takes place, followed by its arrangement. Earthen substrate is poured along the perimeter. It is important that the root collar is at the level of the ground surface. Upon completion of the transplant, the hydrangea must be watered abundantly. Covering the top layer of soil with peat mulch, it is possible to preserve soil moisture for a longer period. Note that the planting and reproduction of hydrangeas are inseparable concepts, and the longevity of the future shoots of the plant depends on the thoroughness and quality of which.

Reproduction of home hydrangea

It is important for such a plant as hydrangea: care and reproduction, possible in two ways (seeds and cuttings).

In the first case, the reproduction of hydrangeas: planting with seeds and leaving occurs during the period of the end of the wintering of the plant. Fresh seeds are planted in specially fabricated and prepared soil, consisting of leaf and sod land, as well as humus in equal proportions. It is not worth digging or planting them deep into the soil, it will be sufficient to sow them on the soil surface and create a kind of closed ecosystem by covering the surface of the pot with young seeds with glass. Prerequisites are the presence of light, a small but constant soil moisture and the absence of sudden changes in temperature conditions. When young shoots appear, the glass should be removed. As soon as the shoots get stronger and the first leaves are released, they can be safely transplanted into a regular pot with an approximate diameter of 60-80 cm.

Propagation by cuttings is acceptable for more experienced florists, it is more difficult and requires some experience. However, in turn, it is crowned with great chances of success.

For cuttings, the period from the end of February to the beginning of March is ideal. For this procedure, young shoots are selected and cut with a length of 6 - 8 cm. Moreover, you need to ensure that there are up to three internodes on each shoot. It is conditionally necessary to divide each stalk into three parts, it is worth halving the leaves from the upper third, and completely removing them in the lower part. After that, it is strongly recommended to treat with a root stimulant (for example, "Kornevin") and plant in sandy or sandy-peat soil, water and cover with a glass jar. That will create a favorable closed ecosystem, provide a favorable climate and humidity and prevent the soil from drying out. The optimum temperature for cuttings is +20 C. After about a month, they will take root, and they can be planted in separate pots.

Diseases and pests of culture

Hydrangea is a very demanding plant and rarely "forgives" neglect of optimal conditions for it. In view of what it may turn yellow, the foliage will crumble or become stained, which indicates a lack of moisture and / or direct sunlight. It can also rot or stop blooming, which in turn could indicate an excess of liquid in the soil and / or a lack of feeding. However, in addition to this, hydrangea, like most houseplants, is prone to a number of diseases, such as chlorosis, gray mold or powdery mildew.

Chlorosis is a disease of chloroplasts in foliage. As a result, the flower turns yellow and can subsequently crumble. To prevent chlorosis, iron vitriol (approximately 8-12 grams per liter of liquid) or iron sulfate (2 grams per liter) is added to the water used for irrigation.

Gray rot can be dealt with with Borodos fluid. For powdery mildew, use a mixture of 15 grams. copper sulfate and 150 gr. green soap diluted in a liter of water.The plant should be treated with this solution.

Features of garden hydrangea

Caring for a flower in the garden is different from keeping an indoor "relative". Moreover, there are differences between different types of garden hydrangea, which are more dependent on the abundance of moisture and a favorable climate, which cannot be created artificially, as in a closed room or at home.

So, for example, garden panicle hydrangea: planting and care for which should be approximately as follows. Shaded location, abundant watering in warm months, preferably planted in humid climates, does not tolerate the neighborhood of shrubs from the family of "Spirea" and "Dilphinium".

These rules for large-leaved hydrangea are slightly different: planting and care require a well-lit and open place without close proximity to other bushes and flowers (however, you should not plant it in the center of the garden in the open sun), as well as not only abundant watering of the soil, but frequent spraying leaves and flowers. It is worth more carefully monitoring the color of the foliage, since the large-leaved garden hydrangea is more prone to chlorosis.

The rules to which the petiolate hydrangea is subject: planting and leaving are very similar to the conditions for the development of a panicle hydrangea, except that the petioled hydrangea is not so whimsical to neighbors in the flower bed. In general, any flower loves space and moisture, needs moderate heat and does not survive direct sunlight.

Conclusions on growing hydrangea

Summing up the above tips, we will make a small footnote regarding what kind of hydrangea care at home and hydrangea care in the garden should be so that the plant does not need anything and blooms and develops profusely.

For hydrangeas: care and cultivation should be subject to strict reference to the season, the rate of growth and development of inflorescences may depend on this. It is worth avoiding dark and musty places and remember that home hydrangea does not like direct sunlight. Optimal temperature conditions: summer up to +22 C, spring and autumn from +12 C to +15 C, winter from +6 C to +8 C

In the hot season, the soil should be abundantly moistened, but it is worth making sure that between waterings its upper layer has time to dry out, with the approach of cold weather, watering is reduced to a minimum. Do not forget about the softness and acidity of the watering fluid.

The air should be humid for most of the year, except for the wintering period. You should not neglect high-quality and timely feeding of the plant in the warm months of the year. Timely treatment and care of the plant will help avoid serious problems and live a long life for hydrangeas, rewarding the world around with beautiful grace with flowers.

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Care and cultivation of homemade varieties is, of course, different from cultivating hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas in the room.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea pleases with its beauty both in the room and in the garden

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

The main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
• hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New indoor cultivars usually range in height from 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of different color, or change it as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• small petals are located inside the sepals;
• flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
• sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on the shoots of last year;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Inflorescences of the Sister Teresa variety reach 30 cm in size

Mme E. Mouillere:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Variety Madame Emile Mulevo during flowering, like true French women, does not forget about changing the colors of her outfits

Blue

Early Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet shades at first have a greenish color;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

The Earley Blue variety pleases with flowering until October

Nikko Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5-7.0 pH;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

The inflorescences of the Niko Blue variety can compete with the sky blue in brightness.

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• compact bush.

The bushes of the Ramars Mars (Mars) variety are compact, but the inflorescences are giant

Miss Saori:

• diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

The Miss Saori variety has an original color not only of flowers, but also of leaves.

You & me Love:

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 ° C.

The frost-resistant variety You and my love was bred quite recently - in 2015

Red

Admiration:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering in October on the shoots of the last year;
• the bush has a dense crown.

The Delight variety blooms profusely even in October.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Variety Bavaria - a real extravaganza of colors and shades

Hot Red:

• diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Red flowers of the Hot Red variety with high acidity of the soil acquire a purple hue

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the shoots of last year until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety.

Often beginner growers are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase denotes multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, you need to place it on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda, or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air as often as possible.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
• good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition for growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as the plant is badly affected by excess lime. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• chopped pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• high-moor peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In the fall, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

It is necessary to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

Use special products strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and purple shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" to the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Inflorescences of red color can be "repainted" in lilac and violet shades, change the pink color to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly in the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7-8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes.The color can only begin to change from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can cut off shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Hydrangeas make up gorgeous bouquets, both single and in the company of other flowers

Faded inflorescences are pruned as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

Scheme: cut off everything that is superfluous and dry

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and cut them off with sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears.
2. Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated carbon powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the slices dry out a little.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4-5 branches are left on each trunk.

Dormant period

At the beginning of the leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After discarding hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea hibernates best at a temperature of + 5–8 ° C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. It is necessary not to forget at this time to water the ground a little in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea must be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result, fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil during watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: soil selection, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in all types of soil.The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: sod land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

There should be a 1–2 cm drainage layer at the bottom of the hydrangea pot

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallowly, but densely.

If the roots began to appear from the drainage hole, it is time to transplant the hydrangea.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for watering);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
• The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be spread down and not bend;
• After transplanting, some of the leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.

   We take out the hydrangea from the pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife

2. We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

   We remove excess soil and examine the root system

3. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, put a hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar.

   So we place the plant in a new pot

4. We tamp the earth, if necessary, fill up the soil and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.

   Water the hydrangea with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate and spray the leaves with clean warm water

5. Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.

   Pour a layer of mulch on top of the soil

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea, propagated in this way, blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings is easy both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• the drug Kornevin;
• planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk.

   Carefully cut off the chosen twig

2. We make a cut under the lower kidney.

   Cut off the stalk under the lower bud

3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.

   Cut off the top above the upper kidney

4. Cut off the excess lower leaves.

   The lower leaves of the cuttings are now useless

5. Cut the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation

   Leaves should be trimmed by about half.

6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other.

   We stick the cutting into the substrate

7. We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water.

   Wet the substrate abundantly with water

8. Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month.

   Cover the cuttings to preserve moisture

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 ° C;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Rooting in water

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to slightly tint the water with it to a blue tint.

Methylene blue conditions and disinfects water

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in the water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

Hydrangea cuttings root well in water

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

This bush is cut in two

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle with sand on top quite a bit (!). Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 ° C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be planted again.

Hydrangea seed reproduction stage

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few potassium permanganate granules (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for a hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.

Ksenia, 39 years old. By education, a pastry chef, but had a chance to work in many other areas (sales, office, renovation). I love to cook and plant flowers. Rate the article:

(3 votes, average: 4.3 out of 5)

In the previous article on hydrangea, I talked about the most popular varieties and rules for growing in the garden. Many gardeners, unfortunately, do not have their own plot, but they would dream of growing a luxurious hydrangea bush in an apartment. Despite the fact that hydrangea loves an abundance of light and space, perhaps you will find a suitable window sill where it can grow in a pot. Naturally, you should not expect from a "domesticated" hydrangea the same abundant flowering as from a garden form. In a pot, in the cramped space of the roots, with less light than on an open surface, hydrangea inflorescences will be much smaller in size. But at the same time, they will not lose their charm, incredible colors and a tendency to long-term flowering. Only, if possible, send hydrangea to an open space - a loggia or balcony during the summer months. It is also worthwhile to foresee a place for the wintering of your pet in advance.

In the article where we tamed the "obstinate" orchid, I already said that the flowering program in plants "turns on" after several successive natural signals. For hydrangea, such a signal is winter rest for 2–2.5 months. During this period, the hydrangea bush is kept in a cool room (basement, glazed loggia, unheated storeroom) at temperatures ranging from 5 ... 10 ºС. And only after coming out of 2-month sleep, the hydrangea will delight you with flowering from April to November.

Hydrangea will delight you with flowering from April to November

Conditions for growing hydrangeas at home

Substrate
Hydrangea is grown only in acidic soil. A ready-made substrate for azaleas, citrus fruits, conifers, or a special one for hydrangeas, bought in a store, is suitable for her. Therefore, I recommend growing hydrangeas in a mixture of turf, black peat, humus or leafy soil and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.

Transfer
We spend it every year after the plant wakes up. If you regulate the growth of your hydrangea, leaving it constantly in the same frame, then the diameter of the pot does not need to be increased. After wintering, some of the thinnest roots dry up irrevocably, only the most powerful ones remain viable. Without a twinge of conscience, we remove the "cobweb" of roots together with the waste soil and plant it again in an old pot, but with fresh soil. And so every year.

Watering
During flowering, water the plant abundantly, ensuring stable soil moisture. Complete drying of the coma is not allowed until a dormant period occurs, in which the hydrangea is introduced gradually, reducing watering to nothing. Watering should be done only with soft water. For hydrangeas, this is very important, because it does not tolerate alkaline soils, and they become so and lose the necessary acidic reaction, especially with frequent watering with hard water with a high calcium content. Rainwater, from a well or spring, is best. As a last resort, stand the tap water for 24 hours before watering the hydrangea. Acidify it occasionally with citric or oxalic acid.

Fertilizer
Every 10-14 days, watering with water is replaced with fertilizer.We begin to water the fertilizer only when small inflorescences appear on the tips of the shoots. Universal fertilizer for flowering plants or any complex fertilizer is diluted in the proportion indicated on the package. After flowering, two dressings are made with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or, in the absence of, they are skipped altogether.

Light
The balcony or window should be very bright with a minimum of direct sunlight. If your hydrangea looks "grafted" every day at noon, but the earthen lump is still wet, change the window on which it grows.

Trimming and shaping
Can be carried out before or after dormancy. Remember that the hydrangea lays flower buds at the top of the shoot of the current year. So your plant should always have two types of branches: the first - last year's and flowering and the second - with the prospect of flowering next year. This is important to know when pruning. We do not prune new shoots; we shorten the faded ones to 2-3 internodes or cut them out altogether. Hydrangea needs to ration the number of shoots. We leave only powerful, well-developed shoots. In the root zone in the fall, we pluck out new shoots, leaving no more than 5 best shoots.

Your plant should always have two types of branches: the first - last year and flowering and the second - with the prospect of flowering next year

Reproduction
If desired, the hydrangea can be easily propagated. Most willingly, hydrangea reproduces by green cuttings. The best time for this is mid to late summer. In the root zone, select well-developed shoots and cut them off at the base with a sharp knife. We also take side shoots from last year's branches. Cut the cuttings up to 10 cm long with several pairs of leaves, which are removed from the bottom of it and shortened to half at the top. The survival rate of such cuttings is very high - 80–90%. To guarantee this result, we dip the end of each cutting into a root stimulant, the range of which is now very large. But even without the help of a stimulant, cuttings root remarkably within 4-5 weeks. We plant the prepared cuttings in an acidic substrate based on peat, any of the above will do. To maintain high humidity, put a transparent plastic bag on top of the pot with several holes for ventilation. After two months, remove the bag and take care of the small shoots like a regular houseplant.

Cuttings root remarkably within 4-5 weeks

"Magic potion", or how to change the color of hydrangea

To transform one hydrangea into another, we cannot do without a "magic potion". To prepare it, we need water and potassium alum (these are derivatives of various alkali metals) or aluminum sulfate. These components can be purchased at any gardening store.
The color change occurs only with the simultaneous presence of two factors: acidic soil and the presence of aluminum. So, we dilute potassium alum as follows: 5-10 g per 1 liter of water, and aluminum sulfate - 15 g. Water the pot with hydrangea with this solution from the moment the small inflorescences appeared, alternating watering with ordinary water, fertilized and "magic".
Delicate pink hydrangea blooms with blue flowers, deep pink - with lilac or lilac (it depends on the intensity of the original pigment), red - purple. And if you water the dark pink varieties with aluminum sulfate or iron, then you can count on blue flowers.

The color change occurs only with the simultaneous presence of two factors: acidic soil and the presence of aluminum

To make it easier to understand what we will have in different months, and how our hydrangea will look like at the same time, I have compiled a calendar for keeping a hydrangea at home for you.

Note to flower growers

December to January – rest period. Hydrangea stands in a cool room at a temperature of 5 ... 10 ºС with a dry or slightly damp lump of earth. Branches without foliage.

February - ntimidity. The buds swell on the branches, the hydrangea gives a signal that it will soon begin to bloom. It's time to transplant it into fresh soil, possibly by increasing the size of the pot, and transfer it to a light window. We accustom to watering gradually, carefully and reasonably as the earth dries out, letting the earth dry out a little from above. We avoid the accumulation of excess water in the pan and do not leave the pot in it to get wet. Choose a window that is very light, without direct sunlight.

March to April – active growth... Hydrangea is becoming greener every day, actively increasing its green mass, preparing for flowering. We take care of the hydrangea as usual: we water and fertilize.

May to October – bloom... Hydrangea goes through different stages of flowering: development, blooming, coloration and color change. If possible, we take it out to the balcony in partial shade. During this period, we carefully monitor the moisture content of the earthen coma, never allowing it to dry out, we regularly fertilize the plant. Enjoy the beauty of hydrangea to the fullest.

November – the end of flowering. The inflorescences can dry out and wither. It's time to cut them off and give the plant a break from depleting flowering. We fertilize a couple of times instead of nitrogen or complex fertilizers with phosphorus-potassium. We gradually reduce the number and frequency of watering.

December - rest time... Hortense threw off all the leaves, she fell asleep. The clod of earth is barely wet. We carry out pruning of frail and disproportionately grown shoots and send them to a cool place until February.

If you once tried to grow a hydrangea, then, I am sure, you will forever remain a fan of it. This plant is interesting to grow not only for aesthetic purposes, but also as an experiment. After all, every florist is, in fact, in something and somewhere a magician, only thanks to his care and love can a plant bloom, not to mention changing color. Give time and care to your plants and they will surely respond with lush bloom! The word of an experienced florist.