What fruit trees can be grown in the suburbs?

If you want to dilute the usual row of apple trees, pears, gooseberries and raspberries on your site, take note of our selection of not the most common fruit trees and berry bushes. All of them can be planted in the fall!

September-October for a summer resident is still a "hot" planting season. If by next year you want to diversify the standard fruit and berry "assortment" of the summer resident with not the most popular plants, our article will help you make the right choice. We show rare shrubs and tell you how to grow them in the middle lane.

Apricot

Perhaps the apricot is the most trivial plant on our list. Yes, this is a southern tree. Yes, it often freezes out in the cold winters of the middle zone. But, nevertheless, many gardeners manage to get an excellent harvest every year with frost-resistant apricots: Iceberg, Alyosha, Aquarius, Countess, Lel, Northern Triumph, etc.

The main secret of growing this crop in conditions far from the hot south is the right choice. seats for landing... Be sure to choose a site that is well protected from the winds on the south or southwest side of the garden. Drafts, cold and waterlogging are the main enemies of apricot.

The harvest of apricots can please even in the middle lane

Blooming apricot will decorate any garden

Apricot is considered one of the most common in the middle lane of southern trees.

Soil fertility is not the most important factor when planting an apricot, but for a thermophilic "guest" it is advisable to prepare soil mixture from peat, clay and sand, taken in equal parts. Rotted compost and dolomite flour can also be added here.

They choose a place for planting an apricot and begin to prepare it in the fall in order to plant a seedling at the end of April.

The size of the planting pit should be at least 70 × 70 cm. The apricot is planted so that the root collar of the seedling is several centimeters below the soil level.

If the groundwater in your area is too close to the soil surface, the usual planting method for apricots will not work. Some experts recommend plant apricot seedlings in earthen mounds with a diameter of 2-3 m and a height of about 1 m. Plus, such a "flower bed" will help protect the tree from waterlogging during snow melting.

• 7 best winter hardy varieties of apricots

  A detailed description with photographs of winter-hardy varieties of apricots that can be grown in central Russia and in the Moscow region.

Despite the fact that the apricot tolerates dry air quite well, regular watering is still important for it. It is imperative to water the tree during planting and transplanting, 2-3 weeks after flowering and about a week before the fruit ripens. Naturally, in abnormal heat, the apricot is watered more often. The watering rate for an adult tree is 40-50 liters of water, in a drought - 70-75 liters.

From the end of July, watering begins to gradually stop, so that the shoots have time to ripen by winter.

Gumi (multiflorous goose)

Gumi (aka many-flowered sucker) is an unusual berry shrub with beautiful silvery leaves and bright red fruits.It is covered with fragrant white flowers in spring, and yields in the first half of August, 4-5 years after planting. The taste of the berries is pleasant, with a slight sourness.

Gumi flowers are bisexual, so ovaries will appear even on a single bush, although it is still preferable to plant at least 2-3 plants nearby.

Planted multiflorous oak tree at the end of April. The place is selected in the same way as for an apricot - warm, not blown by winds, without stagnant water.

When planting, the seedling is buried so that the root collar is 5-8 cm covered with earth.

Another name for gumi is multiflorous goose

Blooming oak multiflorous

Gumi fruit

Considering that this shrub bears fruit on old shoots, it is recommended for the winter. harbor... To do this, the shoots are bent to the ground, fixed with metal brackets and covered with brushwood, burlap, spruce branches or non-woven material.

When covered with a film, gumi can vanish.

Loch multiflorous responds well to mulching with rotted compost.

You can learn more about mulching in our detailed resource All you need to know about mulch.

In constant pruning gumi does not need. It is enough to regularly remove damaged and frozen shoots. Rejuvenating pruning will have to be done only in the 13-15th year of life. For this, every third perennial shoot is cut into a ring.

Loch multiflorous is valuable because it attracts a large number of bees, as well as contributes to the enrichment of the soil with nitrogen... Its root system is superficial, and nitrogen-fixing nodules are located on the roots. A very compelling reason to plant this shrub in your garden!

Dereza Chinese

You, of course, more than once came across information about the almost miraculous properties of the berries of this shrub - goji... Whether they really contribute to weight loss is a controversial issue, but their benefits for the body have been proven by doctors.

Chinese Dereza, or ordinary, is guaranteed to tolerate frosts down to –15 ° C, and according to some reports even up to –25 ° C. If the climate in your area is not sustainable, try grow this shrub in containers, and for the winter to bring to the basement or cellar.

In warm regions, Dereza can be planted in the fall, until early October. In the middle lane, this is only appropriate when growing in containers. If you are going to plant the tree in open ground, it is advisable to wait until the end of April.

Goji is nothing more than an ordinary Dereza

Chinese Dereza blooms almost all season

Dereza fruits are known for their medicinal properties

For landing choose a drained area on the south or southwest side. The type and composition of the soil is not critical.

The size of the planting pit is 50 × 40 cm. A distance of 1.5-2 m should be maintained between the seedlings. Fertilizers are applied for planting: 8 kg of rotted compost (humus and peat), 200 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate and wood ash from calculation for each landing pit.

The seedlings are buried by 5-7 cm. After planting, 30-40 liters of water are poured under each bush, after which the trunks are mulched with peat or humus.

Dereza, which is grown in containers, needs more frequent feeding and watering.

For the formation of ovaries, this shrub does not need pollinating plants, but, as in the case of gumi, when several bushes are planted nearby, the yield of dereza increases.

Dereza is very beautiful - it blooms all season, from late May to October. At the same time, lilac flowers are gradually replaced by oblong red fruits. During the summer, the berries can be harvested more than 10 times! The most valuable of them are considered to be collected at the end of summer, in August.

Perhaps the only significant drawback of this shrub is thorny shoots.

Duke

The fruit tree with the mysterious name duke is in fact nothing more than a hybrid obtained by crossing cherry and sweet cherry.Unlike cherry, duke boasts resistance to moniliosis and coccomycosis. It is distinguished from cherries by fruits with a slight sourness.

Duke is a hybrid of cherry and sweet cherry

The first domestic duke hybrid was bred in 1888 by Michurin

Duke's winter hardiness is average. For the middle lane, varieties are best suited Ivanovna, Beauty of the North, Nochka-1, Nochka-2, Beautiful Venyaminova, Spartanka, Miracle cherry.

Nearby will certainly be planted cherry pollinator one of the following varieties: Iput, Red dense, Tyutchevka.

• The best varieties of cherries for the middle lane and the Moscow region

  Is it possible to grow tasty and healthy cherries in the middle lane and the Moscow region? And which varieties are best suited for these areas?

Dukeare planted to the sunniest, warmest place in the garden, with a fairly low level of groundwater. These plants do not thrive on acidified soil. Planting is no different from planting cherries and cherries. You can follow the advice of our article Planting a cherry seedling: detailed instructions for a beginner.

If the winter is very cold, the duke may not give a harvest at all, because it blooms and bears fruit on last year's shoots.

Cornel ordinary

Cornel is a spectacular bush-shaped fruit tree. It is interesting for its ultra-early flowering: this tree is covered with a scattering of bright yellow flowers even before the leaves hatch on it. Bloom lasts up to 3 weeks!

The color of the dogwood fruit is most often scarlet, but they can be golden, pink and even black.

Unlike the plants listed above, this crop can tolerate slight shading... Shelter for the winter is required only at a young age.

Dogwood is one of the first to bloom in early spring

Dogwood fruits are tasty and healthy

100 g of dogwood fruit contains the average daily intake of vitamin C

Planted dogwood in April, before bud break, or in September - early October, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. The size of the planting pit is 80 × 80 cm. After planting, it is necessary to cut out every third shoot on a ring, water the seedlings at the rate of 30-40 liters for each bush and mulch the trunks.

Dogwood grows slowly, but really durable and not capricious. It remains only to puzzle over - why does he remain such a rare guest in our gardens?

Raspberry strawberry

This shrub is also called seductive raspberry. Its fruits really look like strawberries.

Strawberry raspberries can be grown as a hedge

The fruits of this raspberry really look like strawberries.

The seductive raspberry has beautiful jagged leaves

The bushes of this raspberry are short and very thorny.

The height of this shrub usually does not exceed half a meter. It grows quickly and forms curtains, so immediately upon planting it is desirable to limit the rhizome... For example, dig in slate around the perimeter of the landing pit. Otherwise, after a few years, your garden runs the risk of turning into a wild raspberry tree.

• How to plant raspberries in the fall?

  Useful information about the autumn planting of raspberries: timing and technology, care of seedlings.

Strawberry raspberries bloom from June to September, with fruit ripening from July. Unfortunately, there are a lot of thorns on the shoots of this species, and harvesting is not an easy task. For this reason, the shrub is best grown as a hedge. Beautiful foliage and long flowering make it an excellent ornamental plant.

Medlar

This tree loves mild winters and warm summers, so in the middle lane it are planted in the warmest corner of the garden, and for the winter, young plants are covered.

The medlar blooms in June with snow-white flowers. Fruits are small - about 3 cm in diameter, colored light brown. They taste sour, frankly, for an amateur. But they contain a large amount of nutrients and improve the condition of blood vessels.

The German medlar can be grown in the middle lane, in contrast to the Japanese medlar

Flowering medlar german

The fruits of this type of medlar should not be eaten immediately after harvest.

By the way, you can't just eat the berries straight from the tree. Medlar fruits can be eaten only after 2-3 weeks of "aging"... To speed up the process, they can be frozen.

Under landing for seedlings of medlar, a hole is dug, a third larger in size than a clod of earth on the rhizome. Fill it with the following soil mixture: leafy earth, humus, turf and sand in equal parts.

Golden currant

Red currants, black currants, white currants - all these shrubs are well known to us. What about golden currants? The irony is that the color of the fruits on the bushes of this species is also quite varied: golden currants can be yellow, black, and red! It all depends on the variety.

This unusual shrub, unlike other currant bushes, can grow up to 2 m in height. The crown has a neat rounded shape. The leaves are similar to gooseberry leaves. In summer, the foliage is yellowish-green, and in autumn it changes color to burgundy-orange. Golden currant blooms with lemon-yellow flowers in late spring - early summer. In this case, flowering lasts up to 3 weeks.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Berries of golden currant could be mistaken for a gooseberry, if not for the characteristic elongated shape and a "tail" of a dried pistil on one side. They are not sour to taste, unlike other types of currants, they are perfectly stored and transported thanks to their thick skin. From one bush, you can collect about 6 kg of the crop, and golden currant bears fruit for 20 years!

This plant is completely unpretentious: it tolerates return frosts, severe winters, drought, all kinds of "sores", is not afraid of partial shading. The main condition is not to plant a bush on waterlogged clay soils.

For landing dig a hole 50 × 50 cm in size, where 8 kg of rotted manure or compost, 200-300 g of superphosphate and 1.5 cups of ash are introduced. The root collar of the seedling should be buried 5-7 cm below ground level. After planting, the shoots are cut to 5-7 cm above the soil level.

In general, trimming the golden currant is optional, although it treats trimming well. But it can, for example, be formed in the form of a hedge or a low tree.

These facts have not convinced you to plant a few currant bushes on your site? Then here's another one for you: you don't need to cover the bush for the winter! In a word, he will not give you any trouble.

White mulberry

Mulberry is an oriental beauty that requires a place in the sun to maintain good "well-being". But, fortunately, the breeders managed to bring out several varieties that are quite adapted to the climate of the middle zone: White large, Smuglyanka, Black Baroness.

For fruiting, you need plant male and female plants nearby... Also note that the ovaries are formed on the shoots of the last year, therefore pruning worth carrying out without unnecessary fanaticism. It will be enough to remove damaged shoots and shorten healthy ones to give them the desired shape. The procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break, but the air must warm up to at least 10 ° C.

By the way, you can't do without pruning: if you don't "tame" the mulberry, then this "obstinate" can grow up to 12 m in height! Of course, given the slow growth rates, this will not happen in just one season. For example, this crop brings its first harvest only in the 8-9th year after planting.

Luckily mulberry can also be grown as an ornamental plant... Therefore, a slow entry into fruiting should not be a problem at all - the tree will "work out" its place in the garden with a spectacular appearance.

White mulberry can reach truly gigantic sizes

White mulberry

White mulberry

White mulberry

Mulberries are small, 2-3 cm long, fleshy, outwardly they resemble raspberries and blackberries. Depending on the variety, mulberries can be white, pink, red or dark ink.

The skin of the berries is very delicate, so they quickly deteriorate and are stored for no more than 3 days, and even then in the refrigerator. It is advisable to eat them or use them for processing immediately after collection.

Plant mulberry seedlings in September - early October, no later than 2 weeks before the first frost, or in the second half of April. For planting, choose a warm, draft-free, sunny spot in your garden. The depth of the planting pit is at least 70 cm (the roots of the seedling should be freely placed in it, and the root collar should be deepened by about 5 cm).

200 g of superphosphate and 8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost are introduced into each planting pit. After planting, the seedling is watered with several buckets of water and mulched if necessary.

Mulberries can be successfully grown from seeds. For this, the seeds are left in the refrigerator for the winter, and in April they are sown in a greenhouse. By autumn, the height of the seedlings will reach 40 cm. Young plants are left to grow in a school until 1-2 years of age.

By the way, another advantage of mulberry is high drought tolerance.

Which of these trees or shrubs grow in your garden? Be sure to tell us in the comments!

By purchasing fruit trees and shrubs for a garden plot, its owner lays the foundation for truly strategic plantings. For many years to come, they determine the appearance of the territory adjacent to the house, and with proper care they become the main source of fruit crops.

What fruit and berry crops are most often of interest to gardeners? How to arrange the plants you like on the site and find the right neighborhood for them?

Fruit trees and shrubs: photos and names of popular crops

Due to the length of the country, spread over several natural zones at once, it is almost impossible to designate a single list of trees and shrubs. And yet there are species for which gardeners are sure to try to find a suitable place. Photos and names of these fruit trees and shrubs are well known even to those who are far from gardening.

Among fruit trees, the undisputed leaders are apple trees of different varieties and ripening periods. They are followed by pears and the most common stone fruits: cherries and plums.

Fruit and berry bushes, found almost everywhere, include raspberries, various types of currants, and gooseberries. Today it is actively gaining popularity:

• healing sea buckthorn;
• felt cherry;
• early honeysuckle.

Blackberries move to the orchard, more and more often on the plots you can find chokeberry, irgu and other crops, which some time ago were perceived as secondary or planted only for landscaping.

The list of shrubs for the garden is much broader than the above list of trees. No wonder. A fruit orchard exclusively from trees will give its first harvest no earlier than 5-7 years, and the shrubs are ready to please the gardener already in the second or third year after planting.

An additional advantage of shrubs is their relatively small size and less laboriousness to care for. However, no one will be able to replace the pear with currants. Therefore, without trees, the garden will never be complete.

It is believed that in the northern regions, gardeners are limited in their choice by the harsh climate, but the further south, the more diverse the population of garden plots.

Indeed, starting from the Central black earth region, in the ranks of fruit and berry crops, it is not uncommon:

• apricot;
• cherry plum;
• mulberry;
• different types of nuts;
• cherry and its hybrid with cherry.

The list of shrubs is replenished with grapes, yoshta, dogwood and perennial fruiting vines.

But if until recently the gardeners of the middle lane and more northern regions were forced to be content with a very modest list of fruit and berry crops, today things are radically changing.

Nurseries have been successfully offering fruit trees and shrubs for the Moscow region for a long time, which were previously not available in the Non-Black Earth Region. The boundaries of the distribution of southern crops have seriously shifted to the north, not only due to climatic changes, but also thanks to the directed work of breeders.

It is this bait that inexperienced gardeners fall for, who want, by all means, to get a "Garden of Eden" in a limited area. You can understand them! But it is not enough to purchase seedlings, it is important to plant and grow them correctly, taking into account all the requests of plants and the characteristics of the territory.

Rules for the placement of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

Young saplings planted in the garden grow year after year. A few years later, when the time for fruiting comes, the crowns grow by 1.5–2 meters. And mature trees take up even more space.

It is not enough to choose the most winter-hardy, high-yielding varieties; it is necessary to accurately plan the future orchard.

It is better to do this on a piece of paper, based on measurements of the distances from the planting zone to the nearest buildings, roads, fences of neighboring properties. When planting fruit trees and shrubs in a garden plot, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetic preferences of the owner, but also the mandatory norms. They regulate the distance from large plants to residential and outbuildings, transport routes, communications and the boundary line passing between sections.

So, for example, from an apple tree or a pear to a residential building or garage should be at least 3.5-4 meters. This distance is due to the safe operation of the building and the need for constant care for a large horticultural crop. For shrubs, the distance is less and is one and a half meters, which makes it possible to:

• to freely carry out maintenance of walls, windows and other structures and communications;
• do not be afraid of excessive moisture in close contact with vegetation;
• take care of fruit and berry crops, harvest, cut and replant them.

In addition to the mandatory, common sense and safety restrictions, there are other rules that should be considered when planning an orchard.

It is extremely important to adhere to the distance between seedlings in rows, as well as take into account the deadline for growing a particular crop in one place.

Useful and harmful neighborhood of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

Knowledge of the needs of individual plant species and their characteristics is of considerable importance for the future planting:

1. Some crops prefer to grow in the sun, others easily adapt to the shade.
2. For some of the fruit trees and shrubs in the garden area, an open, wind-blown place is suitable, and the other will have to find shelter.
3. The demands of plants for fertility and watering vary.

It is unlikely that in the limited area of ​​the site it will be possible to please all the requests of green pets. In a small country garden, inevitably some shrubs end up under the crowns of growing trees. So that such a neighborhood does not affect the yield, the meta for planting shade-loving fruit trees and shrubs in the garden is determined in advance.

These crops include black currants, honeysuckle, undersized, berry bushes such as cranberries, blueberries and lingonberries. If the shady corner of the garden is well ventilated, viburnum will settle well here. Blackberries and raspberries are grown in partial shade.

Gardeners have long noticed that even in comfortable conditions, garden plants sometimes refuse to bear fruit at full strength, look depressed and grow poorly. It turns out that the reason for this behavior is the wrong choice of neighborhood. As in nature, in an orchard, trees, shrubs and herbaceous crops form tight communities. The above options for a successful and dangerous neighborhood of fruit trees and shrubs in the table will help create the best conditions for each species and get the most out of it.

You can arrange the plantings so that closely related plants are nearby. This solution will be extremely useful, for example, for cherries and petioles, many varieties of which are self-fertile, and they need a pollinator to get a harvest. A similar picture is observed when growing sea buckthorn. True, here there must be one male bush for several female plants.

In addition, for sea buckthorn, which readily reproduces by root layers, blackberries and raspberries, it is better to find a place away from the rest of the garden plantings, otherwise the powerful shoots of these crops will master half of the garden in a year.

Fruit trees and berry bushes - video

What fruit trees to plant on the site?

It is absolutely impossible to imagine a garden, or just a garden plot without fruit trees. They provide food and are unusually beautiful both during flowering and during fruiting. What fruit trees to plant on a plot in the suburbs? Only those who will feel good in the given climate. It is not only apple, cherry, plum, pear, sea buckthorn, hybrid cherry plum, but also some varieties of sweet cherry and apricot.

General requirements of varieties

In order for fruit trees to bear fruit successfully and feel good, they require certain conditions. This is, first of all, a planting site, which is well illuminated throughout the day, the occurrence of groundwater at a level of two to three meters, the presence of nutritious neutral or slightly alkaline soils, a microclimate favorable for the selected tree species, proper care and attention. It is also best to plant several trees of the same variety side by side for pollination.

Which varieties are preferable?

It is the right choice of trees for your favorite garden that will ensure the success of your plan. So, what kind of fruit trees to plant on the site? First of all, zoned, that is, those that are resistant to local diseases and easily tolerate winter frosts. Experts recommend that you always find out all the details about each variety and buy seedlings only in proven, well-known nurseries. But in the markets and along the roads, it is better not to take planting material. Another point worth deciding is which varieties to take and how many trees of each variety to plant in your garden. So, what kind of fruit trees to plant on a site in the suburbs?

Apple tree

This tree is classic, always needed, beautiful and promising for the household. There are many different varieties of homemade apple trees. What do you need to know a gardener who decides to plant it on his site? First of all, how exactly the selected variety is grafted.

• If the purchased variety was grafted with a seedling stock, that is, grown from a seed, then an adult tree will be very spreading, tall and quite powerful (of course, within the framework of the characteristics of its species).
• The semi-dwarf rootstock, which helps to reduce the size of the tree, makes the apple tree much smaller, neater, lower. She will begin to bear fruit much earlier. However, there is also a minus: the yield in comparison with the first option will be less.
• A dwarf rootstock makes the tree even smaller. The disadvantages of this option are the weakening of the growth of the tree, the acceleration of its fruiting and the development of a superficial root system. So such a tree can fall under the pressure of the wind, props or special stretch marks will be needed.
• There is a special kind of apple tree, the so-called "columnar". Such a tree has almost no lateral branching, its height is about two meters. Such trees are very compact, fast-growing and simply beautiful. The most famous frost-resistant varieties are "Vasyugan", "Currency", "Chervonets", "President", "Malyukha".

Separation by aging time

Interested in what fruit trees to plant on the site, first of all, you need to decide when exactly it is planned to get the harvest. Apple trees are divided into autumn, summer and winter varieties. In one garden, experts advise planting several types of apple trees at once: if the house has a basement or a pit, then about fifty percent of all trees should be winter varieties, and all the rest should be summer and autumn varieties. Then there will be fresh apples on the table all year round. If there is nowhere to store the harvest, then only a few winter apple trees need to be planted.

1. Autumn apple trees bear fruit in September and October. Such apples are stored for about three months. These are the "Iyulskoe Chernenko", "Melba", "Bely Naliv", "Medunitsa", "Orlinka", "Candy", "Yubilyar".
2. Summer apple trees bear fruit during July, August and early September. Apples do not lie well, therefore they are immediately processed into jam, preserves and compotes or are simply eaten, but they have a delicate, exquisite taste. These are the varieties "Brown striped" and "Orlovskoe striped", "Antonovka ordinary", "Zhigulevskoe", "Kurnakovskoe", "Solnyshko", "Venyaminovskoe".
3. Winter apple trees bear fruit from October to November, the fruits will lie quietly until next summer. These are Lobo, Welsey, Orlik, Imrus, Northern Sinap, Rozhdestvenskoe, Orlovskaya Zarya.

Pear

While figuring out which fruit trees to plant on the site, each gardener will stop at the pear. It grows well in the area, regularly yields good yields with the right choice of varieties, which are also divided into two types. In principle, it is enough to have only a few trees of both varieties in the garden, so as not to suffer from a lack of fruit.

• Summer pears. Their fruits ripen from the end of July to the very beginning of autumn, are poorly stored and require immediate eating or processing. These are the varieties "Chizhovskaya", "Lada", "Petrovskaya", "Cathedral".
• Autumn-winter pears bear fruit in September and October, fruits can be stored for about a month. These include "Memory of Yakovlev", "Moscow Bergamot", "Veles", "Belorusskaya pozdnyaya", "Moskvichka", "Nadezhda".

Cherries

When deciding which fruit trees to plant on the site, it is worth stopping at the cherry. This wonderful, romantic and beautiful tree will beautify any garden. Previously, it was believed that in the middle lane it ripens poorly, but now special varieties suitable for the Moscow region have already been bred. Their fruits are tastier than the southern ones, they ideally combine sourness and sweetness. It is advisable to plant several cherries on the site, choosing different varieties. The harvest is usually removed in June and July, the timing depends on the ripening group: there are early, middle and late varieties. The early ones include Krasnaya Gorka, Iput, Chermashnaya, the middle ones - Teremoshka, Fatezh, Rechitsa, and the late ones - Revna, Tyutchevka, and Bryanskaya Rosovaya.

Cherry

What fruit trees to plant on your site? Cherries, of course. This graceful tree is tree-like (varieties "Zhukovskaya", "Kentskaya", "Turgenevka") or bush-like (these are "Molodezhnaya", "Lyubskaya", "Vladimirskaya", "Zagorievskaya-2", "Apukhinskaya"), bears fruit in July, June to early August. Several different cherries are strongly advised on one farm.

Hybrid cherry plum or Russian plum

These are well-growing trees that give a large yield of large and very tasty fruits, which in many respects outrun the fruits of the home plum. This tree bears fruit in August and the first half of September.In one area, as in the case of many other trees, several representatives of different varieties will have to be planted so that they normally pollinate and bear fruit. According to the terms of fruiting, the hybrid cherry plum is divided into several types: early in terms of fruiting varieties ("Gold of the Scythians", "Shater", "Traveler", "Kuban comet", "Naydena"), late ("Exchange", "Gift to St. Petersburg "," Sigma ").

Home plum

This is a beautiful, unpretentious tree that will perfectly take root in any area. When deciding which fruit trees to plant on a site in the Moscow region, you should definitely choose it. Plum is of three types, bearing fruit at different times. In general, plums delight with the harvest from early August to early October. There are early plums (this is "Renklod Leah"), with medium fruiting ("Egg blue", "Yellow compote", "Blue gift"), and late varieties in maturity ("Vitebskaya late", "Tern sweet-fruited"). You need to plant several plums.

Sea buckthorn

Thinking about which fruit trees to plant on a plot in the Moscow region, you can pay attention to a tree that is unique in its medicinal properties, which is distinguished by high productivity and excellent durability. This is sea buckthorn. In the same garden, you need to plant two trees at once - a male and a female, because the plant is wind-pollinated and dioecious. The tree propagates by layering, cuttings and even grafting, bears fruit from late summer to early October. The varieties Otradnenskaya, Chuiskaya, Moskovskaya krasavitsa, Vitaminnaya, Yantarnaya are best suited for the Moscow region.

Apricot

This tree is not afraid of frost, and some of its varieties feel great in the Moscow region. Yes, the fruits are not as sweet as in the south, but they are ideal for homemade preparations. The tree bears fruit from the last days of July to the very middle of August. It all depends on the selected variety. Early versions - "Lel", "Alyosha", "Tsarsky", medium ripening - "Countess", "Aquarius", late fruiting "Favorite", "Monastyrsky". In one garden, experts recommend planting several apricots.

There is practically no garden where apple trees do not grow. The choice of this fruit tree is explained by its resistance to climatic conditions in central Russia, good and systematic productivity, and a wide variety of varieties. The growth and fruiting of the tree depends on the correct choice of seedlings, timely planting and compliance with certain rules.

The most favorable terms for planting an apple tree

Before planting apple trees it is necessary to choose the right variety, which will best suit the climatic conditions of the area, otherwise the future tree will not give the desired harvest. It is best to choose a seedling in a local nursery. An open or closed root system does not play a special role, the main thing is to make sure of the quality of the planting material.

In the Moscow region, planting of seedlings is supposed to be carried out in autumn or spring, this is due to weather conditions and the dormant period of the plants. When apple seedlings are healthy and with a well-developed root system, they will take root in any of the above seasons, if properly prepared for the first winter.

Autumn planting of apple trees

Autumn is considered the most successful time when you can plant fruit crops., since the tree is at rest and tolerates adverse conditions better, grows into the ground. The lack of summer heat and heavy rains contribute to the survival of the seedling. Ideal dates for planting are considered from the end of September, when leaves begin to fall, to mid-November. It is necessary to complete the work a month before the onset of stable frosts. Before planting, the remaining leaves from the seedling must be carefully removed so as not to damage the bud.

Planting rules depend on the type of soil and the selected variety. The apple tree loves sunny, elevated places and cannot stand it when it is too windy.Therefore, in the fall, it is preferable to place the seedling in a place protected from the winds.

Apple trees are sensitive to swampy soils and places with shallow groundwater. To prevent the appearance of excess moisture, which can lead to the death of a young plant, it is necessary to prepare drainage system for drainage of melt and rain water... Loose materials (gravel, sand) are well suited for this.

A fragile plant must be protected from rodents for the winter. To do this, it is wrapped in a thick cloth.

It is wrong to add fresh manure to the planting hole in the fall, as this will only interfere with the rooting of the fruit crop. Therefore, the soil is fertilized when spring comes.

Planting seedlings in spring

For beginner gardeners, it will be easier to produce planting young plants in spring... This event is best done after the end of the night frost, but before bud break. The best time is from late April to mid-May. But since spring is late or, conversely, comes too early, it is necessary to check how the earth has warmed up. The best option is when the shovel enters the thawed ground no more than a bayonet.

For spring planting, it is advisable to choose seedlings no more than 3 years old. A young plant must be carefully examined so that the buds on the cuttings do not swell yet, and the root remains dormant. Dried parts of the crown or roots must be cut out with a garden knife and covered with pitch. The damaged bark is also cleaned and coated. The root overgrowth is carefully removed with pruning shears so as not to damage the thickening at the root.

If tightened with fit, the root system may not cope with the load of adaptation that has fallen on it, and the seedling will die. At best, fruiting can be delayed indefinitely.

In this case, the planting hole is prepared in the fall, the soil is dug up in advance.

Choosing a place on the site

Before planting trees the site needs to be preparedgiven its features. If the fertile layer on the site is small, then it will be necessary to bring its thickness to at least 60 cm using the imported soil. Clay soils are very heavy, so they are improved with sand and compost. Peat and humus are added to the sandy soil.

When choosing a place, you need to avoid the south side, it is desirable to have other plants nearby that will protect the young apple tree from the cold wind. From the border of the site, trees need to be planted, stepping back about 4 meters.

Consider before boarding soil type and location on the groundwater site... If the soil is dense on the site, and the groundwater is deep, then they dig narrow trenches, 80 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter, and fill them with loose material. After that, the pit is covered with soil taken from the top layer. After the land has shrunk, trees can be planted.

When groundwater is close to the surface, it is necessary to make a bulk shaft. For this, a hole of about 40 cm is dug out. The drainage is poured into it and the soil returns to its place. Further, an embankment is made of soil with the addition of organic fertilizers. The height of the shaft should be about 60 cm. Another way is to force the central root to branch horizontally. Before planting the young, broken bricks are laid out at the bottom of the planting pit, which will become an obstacle to the roots. In this case, the distance between the trees increases.

Choosing a healthy seedling

Before planting a plant, you need to choose a good seedling... In order for the selected variety to successfully overwinter the winter and take root, it is necessary to acquire healthy planting material. To do this, you need to pay attention to the following nuances:

• there should be no mechanical damage on the roots;
• lack of rot;
• dry root is an indicator of a weak and diseased plant;
• before buying, you need to familiarize yourself with the appearance of the bark of the desired variety and compare it with the proposed seedling;
• on the cut, the roots should be light and moist, without a brown tint;
• the seedling must have at least 4 shoots;
• absence of parasites and visible defects on the tree.

The process of planting a young plant in spring

After all the preparatory work, you can proceed directly to planting a fruit crop... Stages of disembarkation of young animals:

1. After the pit has been prepared and covered with drainage, it is sprinkled with soil and trampled. Fertilizers can be added at this stage. It is necessary to wait several days for the soil to sink.
2. After carefully examining the root system, a small incision should be made in one of the roots. The cut should be light. If it has a different shade, then it is necessary to remove all such places with the help of garden shears. After the performed procedure, the sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. The same is done with the trunk, only in this case the sections are covered with pitch.
3. In the center of the planting pit we put a wooden rail, to which we will subsequently tie the seedling. Pour 2 buckets of some warm water into the hole. The roots must be dipped in a mixture of clay and mullein. Now you can start planting the plant. We put the seedling next to the rail, spread the roots evenly and fill it with soil. It is imperative to ensure that the root collar of the plant is above the soil at a level of 4 - 5 cm. The top layer of soil must be tamped down with your hands, leveling the seedling. The planted young can now be tied to the rail. Use a soft cloth or twine for the garter.
4. At the end, part of the crown of the tree should be cut off, adjusting it to the size of the root system. But if the gardener is inexperienced, it is better to omit this step so as not to harm the plant.
5. You need to start watering immediately after planting the plant. If the spring is rainy, further watering can be omitted.
6. When the plant is planted, you should not forget about caring for it. In the spring, the grass begins to grow rapidly. It is necessary to periodically weed the area around the apple tree and loosen the soil.

What varieties of apple trees are preferable for central Russia?

The variety of apple varieties allows everyone to pick and plant apple trees not only for their taste, but also for the time of their fruiting.

For the climate in the Moscow region winter-hardy varieties with a short growing season are ideal. In order to enjoy the fragrant fruits for a long time, it is advisable to select varieties with different ripening periods.

The early varieties of apple trees that are popular include Medunitsa, Bely Naliv, Melba.

Apple varieties that bring a stable harvest in autumn - Zhigulevskoe, Autumn Joy.

Winter varieties of apple trees for the Moscow region: "Antonovka", "Moscow winter", "Pepin saffron".

Planting, combining and placing trees correctly in the spring will help the gardener grow healthy apple trees with a stable yield. When to plant trees: in spring or autumn, everyone can choose based on their skills and conditions on the site.

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