How to grow remontant strawberries at home?

Good day to all! The theme of the garden today worries many. Almost every second inhabitant of our country owns a garden plot. And everyone strives to grow excellent harvests on it.

What kind of crops we do not plant in our country house.

The main ones, of course, are vegetable crops. They are grown, perhaps all. However, berry crops are also not forgotten, and everyone tries to plant at least a small bed with strawberries on their site. After all, just as one cannot imagine a vegetable garden without tomatoes and cucumbers, it is also impossible to imagine it without this wonderful and tasty berry.

This article will focus on growing remontant berries. So what is a remontant?

Crops such as strawberries, strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits have the property of remontability. It means the ability of these plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season.

Growing strawberry seedlings from seeds

Usually gardeners buy ready-made seedlings. However, many of them still prefer to raise it on their own. And today we will look at how to do this.

You can sow seeds for seedlings already in February, and even at the end of January, and in warm regions of our country in March. It grows for a long time, and also gets stronger for a long time. Therefore, it requires such early plantings.

Soil preparation

The soil should be loose and contain humus, sand and peat. At the same time, humidity is required rather high, about 80%. To do this, 700-800 ml of water will need to be added per kilogram of dry soil and mixed thoroughly.

Further, fill the soil into previously prepared containers with a diameter of about 15 cm. It is better to use the height of the container no more than 5 cm. You can, of course, plant seeds in boxes, but then you will have to dive the seedlings later. For strawberries, the seedlings of which are rather fragile, this is not entirely desirable. Therefore, it is better to try to plant all the same in separate pots.

When the soil is prepared, it must be treated with a fungicide a day before planting. It can either be purchased at a specialty store, or simply use potassium permanganate.To do this, it is only necessary to dilute it and then shed the entire soil mixture.

There is also a method in which the soil is calcined. To do this, it can be poured into a bucket and put on the fire, or in the oven. For the oven, you can set the temperature to 100 degrees. It is clear that you cannot put a bucket in it, so you can use a smaller container.

The next day, loosen the soil slightly, then level and compact slightly, either with a ruler or with another object.

Planting seeds

I must say that the seeds of remontant strawberries germinate very, very slowly. It happens that shoots can be expected even for a month, or even more.

1. Therefore, in order for the process to occur faster, they must be soaked in advance. Ecopin is a very good remedy for this. It must be diluted in water, at the rate of 5 drops of the product per 50 ml of water. Place the seeds in cheesecloth, or cotton pads, and place in the solution for 4.5 - 5 hours.

2. Then take them out and put them on paper, thus allowing them to dry slightly.

Sticky seeds will be more difficult to place in prepared soil.

3. So the seeds are ready, and you can start planting. If you plant them in separate pots, then everything is clear - for one pot, 1 seed.

But there are other ways as well. For example, plant them in a common container. In this case, they can be laid out in the soil by simply scattering them over the surface. And you can make some improvised beds. To do this, either a ruler or another flat object must be marked on the surface of the grooves. Where we will put the seeds.

4. After surface preparation, the soil must be sprayed with water from a spray bottle, thus slightly moistening it and creating a comfortable growing environment.

5. The seeds can now be spread on the surface. To do this, prepare a toothpick, or use tweezers. You can moisten a toothpick and take the seed to it, then put it in the designated place. With tweezers, just push the seed into the prepared plate to a certain place. Seeds should be planted with a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm /

In the future, each gardener chooses a method for himself independently. Someone prefers to sprinkle the seeds with earth, while others leave them not sprinkled. And someone only slightly presses it directly at the landing sites.

6. After planting, the surface should be sprayed again with a spray gun. The stream of water will lightly nail the soil and the seed will settle comfortably, finding the right place for itself.

7. The next technique is not used by everyone, although it must be said that those who use it are very satisfied.

In the last article about planting petunias, we considered the method in which seeds were planted in the snow. So here the snow can also be quite appropriate. Only now we will simply cover the soil with it, laying out a layer of 3-4 cm. It will gradually melt, slightly harden our seeds, and additionally moisten the earth.

8. For better seed germination, it is necessary to create a mini greenhouse. To do this, it is better to either sow them in a box with an existing lid, or cover the container with glass or cling film. The necessary microclimate with comfortable conditions will be created inside, and the seeds will germinate faster in this case. And germination will be better.

9. Be sure to place the boxes in a warm and bright place. The best temperature for germination is 23 - 24 degrees.

If the air temperature in the room where the seedlings are standing is less than 20 degrees, then the seedlings are unlikely to appear.

10. Every day the greenhouse must be opened for ventilation. Also remember to water as needed. Watering is carried out only by spraying.

However, there is no need to be especially zealous, otherwise the seeds may not sprout. And when sprouts appear, the stems can rot, which will lead to a disease such as "black leg", which usually leads to the death of sprouts.

11. After a week, seedlings will begin to appear, and after two weeks all seeds should germinate.After this happens, the film needs to be removed more often. And after 3 - 4 days, leave it only overnight. When the plants adapt in this way, after 4 days, the film can already be completely abandoned.

In order to monitor the germination rate, and to know exactly the planting time, the box can be signed. It should indicate not only the day of planting, but also indicate the variety that is planted in it.

When you plant a lot of seedlings, you can easily get confused about what is where. And so, the hint will remain until the time of the pick.

Plant picking

Timely picking of any plant contributes to obtaining excellent yields. And our berry is no exception in this matter.

Usually seedlings dive when they have 2 - 4 true leaves. This happens no earlier than a month - one and a half, or even two, after sowing the seeds. Saplings at this time are still rather weak, with very thin stems. Therefore, it is worth stocking up with patience and time.

But first, you need to prepare cups, where it is imperative to make drainage holes on the bottom so that the water does not stagnate in the container when watering. Then fill them with earth. It can be the same as when landing.

Make a depression in the middle of the container. Then take out one seedling with a handle from a spoon, or a regular nail file with a sharp edge. It is advisable not to expose its roots. It is ideal to take it along with a lump of potting soil. And so that it does not sprinkle, on the eve of the dive, it must be poured with water in advance. Plant the seedling in the recess, lightly pressing the soil around it. But only slightly, so that the plant can hold on and not fall. It is important not to block the air flow to the roots.

When planting a plant, make sure that the "heart" or "growing point" does not go deep into the soil. Below in the article, a schematic drawing will be given, which indicates the errors during transplantation. It also shows where this point is. This moment concerns the transplantation of a small seedling when diving, and a large one when we plant it in the ground. This is a very important point to keep in mind.

When planting, make sure that the roots do not lift up and are not scattered to the sides. It would be ideal to just deepen them. Moreover, if the seedling turned out to be with a bare root, it will also take root well.

Then water the planted seedling using a pipette, a syringe without a needle, or a rubber bulb. Just a little, just to lightly press the soil around him. After all, we remember that the day before we spilled it all well.

To transplant in this way all the strongest and most developed plants first. And only then you can return to the weaker ones. The very weak can be thrown out. They have not gained enough strength, and will no longer catch up with their more successful brethren.

The seedlings should be placed in a cool place out of direct sunlight. It will take them some time to adapt and get used to new conditions.

Do not feed them for two to three weeks, then every two weeks you can water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Method of planting seeds in peat tablets

Today, many have begun to use such a method as sowing seeds in peat tablets. Thanks to him, they get good and strong seedlings. And I must say that this method is quite effective and simple. We examined it in detail in the article about planting petunias.

Each seed is planted immediately in place, and subsequently you will not need to dive the seedlings. With this method, the thin root system of the seedlings will not be damaged. And when the time comes to plant the seedlings in the ground, you can plant them immediately in these tablets.

The tablets themselves are small, but when moistened, they swell and increase in volume up to 5 times. It turns out to be a pretty decent peat pot. Each of them is covered with a thin shell that will prevent them from swelling to the sides. It also retains moisture inside.

To use the pills, you need to do the following. The first step is to prepare a pallet where we will put them. Its height should not be less than a swollen tablet. We put them there and water them with water. We are waiting for them to swell. For 10 pieces, you will need about a liter of water.

After swelling of the peat "pots", we proceed to planting the seeds. We take them with tweezers, or with our hands, and put them in the recess in the center of the tablet. We place them approximately at a depth equal to the length of two seeds.

We put the finished box with seedlings in a warm place. Cover the top with a film. During the day, we open such a greenhouse for airing, and close it at night.

After the sprouts appear, water the seedlings as needed. Cover it with a bag, or you will no longer need a lid. What such peat tablets are especially good at is that they absorb excess water and gradually give it to the plant, thereby maintaining optimal moisture.

When the seedlings get stronger, we plant them in the ground. At the same time, we plant so that the tablet is completely in the soil. The casing can be removed, especially if the roots have not yet sprouted through it. And if they have already sprouted, then it is better to leave it. The shell is quite thin and reticulate, so such an obstacle will not be a particular hindrance to root growth.

Strawberry care and disease control

If the plant gets sick, then, as a rule, the main reason is insufficient or untimely care of the seedlings. This may be improper watering, inappropriate conditions of detention, improper feeding. Here are some of the options you might come across.

Drying seedlings

This is the most common case if you forgot to water the seedlings on time. In this case, the roots suffer first of all. Watering is necessary not often, but abundantly, so that the soil is completely saturated.

At first, when the plant is still small, only frequent spraying with a spray bottle is practiced.

Subsequently, you can water as usual.

Putrefaction

This arises primarily from an excess of moisture. If it stagnates, then you are watering either too much, or the drainage holes in the container are clogged.

It is necessary to check and clean them, otherwise root rot will appear. If during transplantation you find it on the roots, be sure to rinse them in a solution of potassium permanganate. Otherwise, the plant will eventually wither and die.

Pulling seedlings

Sometimes you can see that the trunk of a plant is very elongated and very thin, while the upper leaves remain completely underdeveloped. Such plants are very weak and not viable. This should be avoided. Such abnormal growth may be due to the plants being planted too often.

It may also indicate that the room is too hot, or there is very little light. So the plants standing on the window will stretch towards the light, trying to overtake those seedlings that are closer to the glass.

To help the plants, it is necessary to install lighting lamps for them that could evenly illuminate all the seedlings. And also you need to lower the air temperature.

Leaf color change

You can also encounter such a phenomenon as a change in the color of the leaves. Often this happens in two cases: either an excess or a lack of any trace element in the soil. There may even be banal food poisoning. To do this, it is necessary to wash the excess fertilizer out of the soil. This event is carried out by irrigating the soil with a large amount of water. In this case, the container with seedlings should be placed so that the water flows freely. Or, as a last resort, you can simply change the soil.

Lack of nitrogen also affects the discoloration of the leaves. At the same time, they acquire a pale green tint.

When there is a lack of phosphorus, a purple tint appears on the lower side of the leaves, and with a lack of potassium, the tips of the leaves turn yellow and curl.

If greenish spots appear on the leaves, then this is a lack of iron. And if the color becomes marble-like, then the plant lacks magnesium. But with a shortage of boron, the "growth point" dies off altogether.

In these cases, the appropriate fertilization is applied.

Pests

One of the most common pests of not only strawberries, but also other plants is the spider mite.

It settles on the trunk and leaves of the plant as a result of a lack of moisture. If cobwebs are found on the seedlings, you must immediately process them. For this, there are drugs such as Karbofos, Aktara, Fitoverm and Aktellik.

Also, at each stage of growing seedlings, every two weeks, you can water them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This feeds the plants and contributes to the disinfection of the soil and the spread of diseases.

You can see how to care for seedlings in the proposed video.

Video on how to care for plants after germination

And so, we have abundant seedlings. It happened about 15 days. Although the first of them have already begun to appear a week after disembarkation.

And I suggest watching the next video. There is a lot of information in it, and therefore it is better to listen to and see everything.

Hope you find this video helpful.

Planting grown strawberry seedlings in the ground

Before planting seedlings in open ground, they are hardened. They usually begin to expose to the open air from 30 minutes, gradually increasing the time to several hours. Seedlings are exposed on the balcony. A week before disembarkation, she is left on the street for the whole night.

Usually, the timing of planting seedlings in the ground falls no earlier than the 60th day after the appearance of the first shoots.

Depending on what kind of seedling you have, the timing of planting it also differs. Winter is planted in spring, while harvesting can be obtained in the first year. Summer is planted until the end of August. If it is still shallow by this time, you can dig in containers with it in the garden, insulate with leaves and leave until the beginning of spring

The landing site is usually prepared in advance. Not only must the soil be cleared of all weeds, compost or humus is applied to the site during digging. This is usually done in the fall. In the spring, humus is simply scattered, after which the soil is loosened.

How to properly plant plants in the ground

The timing of planting strawberries in the ground depends on the climatic conditions of a particular area. As soon as it gets warm, without the threat of night frosts, we plant it.

On average, planting dates fall at the end of April - beginning of May. If you are planting under a film, then you can do it earlier. But the main thing is to plant the seedlings before the onset of hot days.

When planting seedlings, you need to pay attention, first of all, to the root system. It should be well developed. In addition, there should already be at least 3-4 normal green healthy leaves.

During planting, for better survival of the seedlings, you can leave 4 leaves on the seedling, and remove the rest. If the roots are longer than 10 cm, then it is better to trim them.

You can plant in small greenhouses, or as they are also called tunnels. Several arcs are stuck over the bed, onto which the film is then stretched. Subsequently, when warm days come, the film is removed.

Another good way is to plant under the cover material. We take a black material, cut holes in it, into which strawberry sprouts come out.

This option is good because it will save you from weeding, since no weeds will grow under the shelter. At the same time, the berries do not lie on the ground, and therefore are always clean. The mustache is just as easy to remove, since it will have nowhere to root.

Can be planted in nests or rows. But most often, seedlings are planted with a continuous cover.

And finally, the right way to plant a seedling. The picture below shows how to plant, and how it will be done incorrectly.

That is, it is impossible to deepen the trunk, or "point of growth", and it is also impossible when the roots are not completely covered with earth.

Features of growing remontant strawberries in winter

If you have a warm greenhouse, you can grow strawberries in it also in winter. Before planting seedlings, you need to prepare the soil. To do this, you need to add manure, humus or peat: 5 kg per 1 square meter. In addition, you can also add 25 g of potassium sulfate and 80 g of superphosphate, all for the same square meter.

The seedlings are transferred to a heated greenhouse in the fall. Or they grow it when it is convenient and plant it any month. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the temperature up to 20 degrees.

Well, at the beginning of flowering of plants, the temperature should be raised to +22, and preferably to +25 degrees.

Watering should be frequent and abundant. However, do not overfill the plants. Otherwise, the berry will be either watery or rot.

Conditions for growing and caring for strawberries in winter on the windowsill

They also grow their favorite berries in a pot on a windowsill. To do this, it is necessary to purchase varieties of strawberries of constant fruiting. These are "Lyubava", "Albion", "Queen Elizabeth II", "Coquette" or "Geneva", or other varieties.

The conditions for its cultivation and fruiting in pots are as follows:

• planting in pots of at least 16 cm in diameter with holes in the bottom
• good loose drained soil with a drainage layer of 2 - 3 cm. Expanded clay can be used as drainage
• the presence of sand in the soil
• moderate watering
• enough light
• pollination

In the fall, we transplant the selected plants into pots. We create special conditions for this, which were mentioned above. It is also necessary to remove all damaged leaves, flowers and fruiting. You can also trim off some of the larger leaves. At the first stage, it is important that the plant adapts to new living conditions. Therefore, in a similar way of processing, you can help him with this.

The transplanted plant should be watered abundantly and placed in partial shade so that the sun's rays do not burn the foliage and prevent the soil from drying out. As long as the weather permits, the plant can be left outside. But with the onset of cool evenings, where the air temperature will drop below 7 degrees, it is better to bring the plants into the house.

A comfortable temperature for development and growth should be at least 18 degrees during the day, and not lower than 16 degrees at night. And for flowering and fruiting not lower than 22 degrees. When the air humidity does not exceed 80%.

Also, for successful fruiting, plants need a sufficient amount of light. No less than they received it on the street under normal conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to provide additional lighting.

And of course, pollination is imperative. This is done by hand, using a thin brush, or simply by directing air from a fan to the bush.

As you can see, planting remontant strawberries is not so difficult, as well as caring for them. You just need to follow some rules and create the necessary conditions for the seedlings.

And if all conditions are met, the plant will delight you with its appearance and abundance of berries.

I wish you excellent seedlings and equally excellent harvests.

All the best!

Author of the publication

0 Comments: 0Publications: 18Registration: 04-01-2018

The remontant varieties of strawberries are now often grown by summer residents. An excellent aroma and amazing taste are capable of producing varieties of remontant strawberries. Fragrant strawberries with tasty fruits are especially loved by gardeners. But in caring for the berry, you need to be very careful. Such strawberries have specific cultivation characteristics. Due to the fact that the plant can bloom for a long time and continuously, the berry can be harvested until late autumn. A high degree of fruiting is also characteristic of this strawberry. When choosing a planting site, it is better to plant it where vegetables or flowers that form bulbs previously grew. Usually these plants are harvested early, so you can carefully prepare the ground for planting strawberries.Strawberries planted before the onset of dry weather and the appearance of winds will give good results. If you plant a plant in the summer, then a good harvest will be obtained only in the next season. If you planted strawberries in the spring, then give them maximum attention. It is necessary to carry out weeding and loosening of the soil. If you planted strawberries in the fall, then minimal care is required.

Remaining strawberry varieties

Growing strawberries from seeds at home helps the gardener to have plants that cannot always be purchased as seedlings. Good reviews have varieties:

• Baron Solemacher. Grown in pots on the balcony, in an open, closed ground.
• Ali Baba. High-yielding, with increased disease resistance.
• Queen Elizabeth has a fragrant, large fruit.
• Alexandria. Unpretentious, productive variety.
• Merlan. Such strawberries on the balcony will delight you with bright flowers and berries.

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An interesting variety of Frigo, which does not hibernate in the beds. The plant is dug up when the season ends, stored in refrigerators at a low temperature, hermetically sealed. The variety is used for growing strawberries on an industrial scale. It differs in that it is possible to schedule the harvest time. Homes from seeds are grown varieties:

• Ruyana. Differs in early ripening.
• Alexandrina. Small-fruited, very decorative.
• Tarpan. With large berries, bright pink flowers.
• Elan. For vertical cultivation on the balcony.

Repaired strawberries growing from seeds

How do you turn part of your garden into a strawberry meadow? Of course, just grow strawberries on it yourself. Subject to all the rules of planting and caring for plants, the growing process is quite easy and pleasant, and adult strawberry bushes will delight you with an excellent harvest over time.

You have chosen the varieties that you like, and now it is time to sow the seeds and get seedlings.

1. The seeds can be planted from February to April. The main thing is to ensure the correct light regime: daylight hours should last about 13 hours, so in February the boxes with seedlings must be additionally highlighted. And you can not suffer and sow seeds in April.
2. Take care of the soil and containers: boxes for seedlings or pots must be disinfected, and the soil must be treated (calcined, frozen or spilled with potassium permanganate). It is advisable to sift the soil through a sieve.
3. If you opted for self-preparation of the soil mixture, then prepare it like this: mix 3 parts of humus or compost with 3 parts of soil from the garden and 0.5 part of ash, or 1 part of peat with 1 part of sand and 2 parts of turf soil ...
4. Prepare the seeds for planting by stratification. Remember: in the wild, strawberry seeds begin to germinate in the spring, after the snow melts, and for faster germination of seeds, we must create conditions close to natural for them. To do this, sprinkle the strawberry seeds on a damp cloth, wrap it in plastic and put it in the refrigerator for a few days. Prepared seeds are scattered on slightly moistened soil and covered with glass.
5. You can also combine the processes of stratification and sowing: for this, fill small plastic containers with drainage with soil mixture, moisten it and distribute the seeds over the surface of the soil, but do not put soil on top. Place snow about 2 cm on top of the seeds, cover the container with a lid or foil and refrigerate for 2 weeks. The snow will gradually melt, and the melt water will move the seeds deeper into the soil. This method is closer to weather conditions.
6. The air temperature should be kept indoors at about +20 and wait for sprouts.

Care of strawberry seedlings

Strawberry seedlings in peat tablets are watered only through the pallet. It is not necessary to overfill, the appearance of a dark spot on the peat column testifies to the sufficiency of watering.Overflows are the sources of the development of unpleasant diseases, the main of which is the "black leg". First, check if watering needs to be done by testing the ground outside and deeper with your finger.

Strawberry seedlings are a thin stalk branching higher from the ground into small leaves. We need to help the strawberry seedlings develop, for this we add it under the very cotyledons of the earth. After that, additional roots will begin to grow. It is easier to do this if the seeds are sown in small depressions, then you just need to "tighten" the soil to the sprout.

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Picking strawberry seedlings

When real leaves appear (3-4 pairs), you can start diving strawberry seedlings into separate containers. These can be disposable plastic cups (with a drainage hole). When performing a pick, do not cover the strawberry growth point. If the roots of the seedlings are intertwined, then you need to soak the soil in water and untangle the roots with a fork, carefully separating the plants. A plastic cup will be enough for a strawberry seedling before planting in the soil. Remove the first peduncles of strawberries without regretting so that the plant develops well.

Rules for caring for strawberries after planting in the ground

In order for the berries to delight you with the harvest, you should adhere to certain rules:

• Water regularly.
• Loosening between the bushes to improve oxygen access to the roots, to retain moisture. Before the berries appear, this is done three times.
• Weed weeds.
• Remove old leaves.
• Reduce watering in preparation for winter.
• Carry out mulching - covering the soil under the bushes with straw, sawdust, grass. This retains moisture and prevents weeds from growing.

The famous gardener Oktyabrina Ganichkina, talking about the cultivation of strawberries, gives the following advice:

• If good varieties of strawberries are grown on your site, which give an excellent harvest, cut off the first flowers from remontant strawberries. After the end of the collection of strawberries, she will delight with abundant fruiting.
• Fertilizers for strawberries are placed in the ground just before planting. For feeding during the growth period, sprinkle the leaves with ash.

How to propagate seed-grown strawberries

And it will be possible to multiply the strawberries by dividing the bush for the next year. Or leave the best berries for seeds, because this is not a hybrid and the properties of the variety will be well preserved with this method of propagation. Later it will be possible to choose the strongest bushes with the best berries from the new rosettes and also propagate them by dividing or seeds. As a result, the planting of strawberries with healthy planting material will be constantly updated. Do not forget to change the place of growing strawberries once every three to four years so as not to accumulate diseases and pests in the soil. Old strawberry rosettes are divided after three, less often after four years, in spring or autumn. Each part must have at least one horn and good roots when dividing.

Fresh articles about garden and vegetable garden

Repairing strawberries growing from seeds and care

In the article "Renovation strawberries: how to grow not only in the garden, but also in the apartment?" You could get acquainted with some varieties of strawberries that can be successfully grown at home, as well as read that it is possible to get fragrant berries with proper care all year round. This article will tell you more about how to properly grow remontant strawberries, what are the requirements for soil, feeding, lighting, etc. At the end of the article, watch a video on how to sow strawberries correctly.

The soil

When growing remontant strawberries at home in a room, plants can be planted in a permanent place when 4-5 leaves appear. At first, pots with a small diameter of 9-11 cm are suitable.
The requirements for growing indoor strawberries are the same as for most indoor plants - the soil should be as loose, breathable and humus as possible.
As a basis, soil taken from the topsoil of an average deciduous forest is suitable.If there is none, then ordinary garden soil will do, but then 1/4 of loose humus should be added to it.
After filling in a pot (a drainage hole is required), the earth is well washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Plants can be transplanted into a large container after 1-2 months.
As a result, the volume of the planting container per plant should be at least 3 liters with a depth of at least 15 cm.
When filling the pot, you cannot pour the earth to the top, since as the bush grows and stretches, it needs constant dusting of the soil, and the upper level of the soil, accordingly, will constantly rise.

Lighting

In May, strawberry pots should be placed on a balcony, loggia or terrace, gradually accustoming the plants to direct sunlight.
With the threat of late spring frosts, they are brought into the premises and exposed to the open air, when the temperature in the morning reaches + 2-3 ° C.
In November-December, remontant strawberries need special care. At this time, the plant receives a minimum of sunlight. Artificial lighting can make a plant bear fruit all year round, but plants still need biological rest. With the end of fruiting and until mid-January, remontant strawberries are kept in a cold room with a temperature of 0-3 ° C.

Awakening and fruiting

In the second half of January, remontant strawberries should be transplanted into pots with a diameter of 25 cm and placed in a well-lit place - preferably a sill of a south-facing window.
If the bush has grown a lot, then it is better to divide it, since strawberry seedlings have the ability to form additional growth points. Independent bushes appear, which are united only by a small part of the common rhizome.
For a month and a half, the air temperature in the room should be increased from + 15º to + 20º С. But at the same time remember that excess heat in the initial phases of development will lead to rapid growth of leaves, which will be detrimental to the harvest.
If the temperature in the room is above 20 ° C, then it should be constantly ventilated.
The beginning of an active vegetation of a plant is a reason for regular feeding and watering.
In the room, strawberries begin to bear fruit after 6-8 months. the first flower stalks appear at the end of July, but they should be ruthlessly removed until 5-6 pieces appear. Of the 7-9 flowers, 3-4 should be left on each peduncle. If you do this, the berries will be several times larger, and even in small-fruited varieties they can reach 4-5 g.
The advantage of strawberries is self-fertility. Having pistils and stamens on each flower, there is no need to specially pollinate it. A small movement of air is enough for pollination to occur, for example, blowing on a flower.

Top dressing

Once every 10 days, remontant strawberries are fed with a full mineral fertilizer in the range of 10-15 g of nitrogen, 20-25 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers per 10 liters of water, alternating with liquid fertilizing with organic fertilizers. Best of all - infusion of mullein or slurry, diluted 10-15 times, or pour water in which fresh unsalted meat was washed.

How to sow strawberries

We are looking forward to the onset of May to feast on the most delicious, perhaps, berry -

strawberries

... It has already become customary for us to receive harvests from spring to late autumn, but sometimes we really want to taste the sweetness of our favorite berry on a cold winter day!

How to grow garden strawberries at home Alternatively, you can, of course, purchase a pack of strawberries for the price of gold in a supermarket. But doubts that this berry will be useful are very large - the thought of the presence in it of chemistry that is not at all necessary for our body leaves less doubt. I suggest another option: grow garden strawberries by the window and give yourself and your children a piece of summer in the middle of winter.

Is it possible to harvest garden strawberries in the room?

In this case, I really like the saying, which I am often grateful to in my life: "If you really want to, you can fly into space." So with a strong desire, guided by these recommendations, you can get wonderful sweet berries at any time of the year.

This requires:

• high-quality live (not frigo!) seedlings of varieties of neutral daylight hours (hereinafter NSD), which we get from the first row of whiskers;
• lamps (better phytolamps) for supplementary lighting of plants;
• place on the windowsill;
• This article.

How to “move” strawberries from the garden to the house?

In any case, the preparation of seedlings for home cultivation should be done long before the onset of winter.

Option 1

1. When the strawberry bushes form a mustache, fill a container with a drainage hole (for example, a disposable glass or a soft plastic pot) with earth and sand in a 1: 1 ratio.
2. We dig it in level with the ground (but so that the edges of the container rise slightly), direct the first outlet into the container, pin it with an ordinary hairpin or wire bent in the form of a hairpin, and water it constantly. The earth should never dry up, otherwise the plant will quickly die.
3. After 3 weeks, when the young plant has taken root, we cut it off from the mother liquor and continue to water. At this point, watering is even more important; he should be at least once a day, it is better in the evening, and on hot sunny days, you can water it 2 times - in the morning and in the evening.
4. As soon as buds are formed on the plant, they must remove so that the outlet gains maximum strength. 
5. Cups with seedlings we we leave in the ground until the onset of the first frost, and as soon as it froze, we take them out of the ground, fill the holes formed with earth and slightly compact.
6. We completely immerse the containers with plants in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, let the water drain, and bring them into a room with a temperature not higher than + 10 ° C for 2-3 days. Then we bring the sockets into the room and put to the south window. 
7. Additional lighting is required, since the length of the day is too short. The plant will need additional lighting from 6-7 in the morning to 19-20 in the evening, that is, the daylight hours for the plant should be 13-14 hours. For this we use a phytolamp.

Backlight

Option 2

This method is much simpler and less laborious.

1. Before the onset of frost, we dig out rooted young rosettes, remove substandard foliage (that is, leaves that are mechanically damaged, old ones), but so that the plant must have 2-3 true young leaves.

Left: garden strawberry seedling. Right: aging in potassium permanganate 2. Next, we keep the seedling in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) and plant it in a container with ready-made soil mixture purchased at a flower shop and mixed with sand in a ratio of 2: 1.

Why a purchased soil mixture? This is more reliable: the garden soil must be heated in the oven to destroy pests and pathogens, and the finished soil is sterile (of course, if we talk about high-quality purchased soil).

Planting strawberries 3. When planting, it is very important not to deepen the heart (apical bud), which is located in the center of the rosette, otherwise the plant will simply rot.

Heart 4. Water the seedlings and bring them into the room, but for the first few days do not put them on the sunny south window, but set them in more benign conditions (north, east). After 3-5 days, we rearrange it to the south. Just as in option 1, we must use additional lighting.

Which strawberry varieties are suitable for home growing?

Experimental practice, which I described earlier in my article, showed that the NSD ‘Albion’ and ‘Aisha’ varieties are the easiest to care for and the most resistant to diseases in indoor conditions.

The ‘Albion’ variety I told you more about these and other varieties of garden strawberries in this article.

What conditions need to be created for plants to grow and bear fruit at home?

1. Lighting

As I already said, we need a phytolamp for daily supplementary lighting for 13-14 hours a day. If we neglect this point, then a well leafy plant will grow, but in this case we will not see flowering (and harvest).

Why phytolamp? You can, of course, supplement the illumination with an ordinary fluorescent lamp, but the plants in this case will be weaker. Article Choosing a phytolamp for seedlings

2. Temperature conditions

The temperature on the windowsill should be at least + 20 ° С. It is on the windowsillrather than in the room. If the temperature is not observed, then our plants can weaken and get sick with fungal diseases.

3. Watering

It is important to choose the watering mode so that so that the earthy ball does not dry out, but in any case do not allow stagnation of water.

4. Mandatory transshipment of plants

In 25-30 days after "relocation" to the house, the plants need to be transplanted into a large container (1 liter in volume), since the root system has already developed greatly, and the outlet has become cramped in a small glass. This is what the plant looks like before transplanting:

... and so - after:

Plant transplanted into a large container

5. Artificial pollination of flowers

Pollination is an important condition for the formation of the ovary and the development of a full-fledged berry. We make it by hand using an ordinary soft brush.

Pollination If this procedure is neglected or not performed well enough, we will get deformed berries:

Deformation of the berry with insufficient pollination

Do you need feeding strawberries?

Like any plant, garden strawberries need nutrition. Under natural conditions, plants receive it from the ground in which plant residues have rotted. In a room, in a limited amount of soil, strawberries do not have such an opportunity, therefore, feeding should be taken care of without fail.

1. We apply the first top dressing ("Strawberry" or other complex fertilizer for garden strawberries) at half dose (100 grams of solution during watering), when did the first buds appear. 
2. We carry out the next feeding after the first berries have been removed, with the same fertilizer at the same dosage.

Do not be embarrassed and worried that the berry will accumulate nitrates or other harmful elements, since this fertilizer will go to the plant itself, and not to the berry.

When to expect the first harvest?

Experience shows that in winter in indoor conditions the period from planting to flowering is 30-35 days, and the first berries ripen in 30-35 days from the beginning of flowering. It turns out that from the moment of planting to the ripening of the berries, an average of about 65 days pass.

First harvest Here are our first berries:

Home harvest of ‘Albion’ strawberries

What is indoor strawberry sick with and how to treat it?

If we adhered to all the recommended planting rules, and the houseplants in the house are not affected by pests, then the strawberries are not in danger of suffering from them. But besides pests, there are no less dangerous fungal diseases - such as powdery mildew, for example.

Why might problems arise? The air in the room during the heating period is dry and warm, and we, knowing that it is unhealthy, begin to increase the humidity. This is correct for us, but for garden strawberries, which are not blown by the wind at home, but is under the influence of cold from window glass, high humidity can cause powdery mildew. This is a white fungal bloom on the leaves, stems, and then the berry.

For the prevention of the disease, you can use the drug Fitosporin, which is safe for humans. We spray the plants with it once a week. Of course, white traces form on the leaves, but the plant will be reliably protected.

Garden strawberries It is not difficult to grow garden strawberries on the window, the main thing is to want very much! Good luck and excellent harvests!