How to grow bush beans outdoors?

Beans are among the top ten most useful vegetables, so when choosing crops for growing in your garden, they always have a place. In order for the time and money spent to be rewarded with a generous harvest, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of agricultural technology, planting and care for open field cultivation.

When to plant beans outdoors

The planting of beans is planned for May month. You should focus on weather conditions and the correct temperature regime in the soil, which is indicated by indicators 12-15 degrees (at a depth of up to 10 cm). According to the popular calendar, this period coincides with the flowering of chestnuts.

Erect varieties need to be planted first, and after a week you can start climbing varieties.They plan to plant a bushy legume at the beginning of July... This can be done on the beds from which the harvests of early-maturing vegetables have already been harvested.

Experienced gardeners carry out planting work in several stages: from mid-May to early July with an interval of at least 10 days.

A bush bean variety must be sown in the ground in early July

To speed up the harvest, it is recommended to cover the soil in advance with plastic wrap to warm up. After planting the seeds, cover the garden bed again until the night temperature is at least 12 degrees.

Are beans afraid of frost

Beans are a thermophilic culture, so planting is best done in spring. in the second half of Maywhen the threat of frost has passed. Young shoots are afraid even of cold winds, which is why many gardeners find its place under apple trees or along the fence.

The minimum temperature that bean sprouts can withstand does not exceed the mark -3-4 degrees... If the frosts were short-lived, the beans will survive, but their development will be slowed down and yields will decrease.

Agrotextile or film, which are used for construction, will help to change the situation. temporary shelter.

The most popular varieties for planting

Varietal diversity complicates the choice. If there are difficulties in determining the range, it is recommended to give preference to proven varieties that are adapted to the climate and weather conditions of the region.

The best varieties for the Moscow region, Ukraine and Belarus

Moscow White Green Pod 556

Moscow White Green Pod 556

Plant mid-early ripening period, from sowing to harvesting 100 days... The bush is formed at a height of only 25 cm, the fruits have a parchment layer, but very thin. The culture is unpretentious, resistant to a humid environment and drought.

Nomad

Curly variety mid-early ripening. The egg-shaped bob is ocher in color with a pale purple pattern. The fruit is free of parchment and fibers, which makes the structure tender and soft. The plant is tolerant to anthracnose, gray rot.

For the Urals and the middle lane

Oran

She R - early maturing ripening beans 80-90 days, recommended to plant in a country house in central Russia. The height of the bushes is from 35 to 56 cm, the fruits are distinguished by high taste.

Productivity from 1 m2 within 200 grams.

Pink

Pink

Harvesting begins in 65-85 days after seed germination. The climbing bush reaches a height of up to 3 m, so it needs support.

The marbled pink beans are free of parchment and fibers, which gives them a delicate texture. Purple streaks and streaks are visible on the fruit. The application is universal, in any form the beans retain their unique taste.

For Siberia

Winner

Winner

Culture is different high yield and the nutritional qualities of the fruit. The length of the pods is about 30 cm, the beans are large. Cold resistance and strong immunity make it possible to cultivate and grow a plant in Siberia.

Feature: lashes with beautiful fiery red flowers can be used as a decorative hedge.

Oil king

Oil king

Bush type of beans with a ripening period 1.5 months... Delicate and pleasant taste of tubular fruits will not leave indifferent any gourmet. The length of the pod part is about 25 cm. The harvest is universal: dry harvesting, freezing, canning.

Planting rules and agricultural techniques for growing in open ground

Seed preparation

To obtain quick shoots and protect young shoots from diseases, the seeds should be prepared before planting.

Soak first in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about 20 minutes. After the procedure, the beans are washed with clean water and again need to be soaked in wood ash infusion for 2 hours.

At night before sowing, the pea beans are wrapped in a damp cloth for germination at home.And 5 minutes before sowing into the soil, they are dipped into a boric acid solution. This will protect the plant from diseases and pests.

Preparing the soil and choosing a place for sowing

For planting a crop is selected well lit place, but without drafts and strong winds, planting through seedlings is practically not used. The type of soil does not play a big role, but experienced gardeners noted that beans develop worst of all, they can germinate and bear fruit poorly on clay soils. This is due to poor moisture permeability, which causes the seeds and roots to rot.

In general, the preparatory process for the formation of the garden consists in digging the soil to the depth of the shovel bayonet... At the same time, fertilizers are introduced: per 1 m2 add 4 kg of humus or compost, 2 tbsp. l. dolomite flour, 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate and 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

When preparing the soil, you need to dig it up to the depth of the shovel bayonet

Another option for enriching the soil with nutrients involves the use of ½ compost (humus), 30 gr. superphosphate, 20 gr. wood ash per 1 m2.

When determining a place for planting beans, those crops that were grown on it last season are taken into account.

Ideal predecessors are: potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, eggplant.

Planting scheme and depth

Shrub varieties of culture are planted according to the scheme:

• seed placement depth - somewhere 5-6 cm;
• distance between holes in a row - 20-25 cm;
• aisle - 40 cm.

Curly varieties are planted in a slightly different way:

• seed placement depth - 5-6 cm;
• spacing between holes in a row - 25-30 cm;
• aisle - 45-50 cm.

When planting beans, 5-6 seeds are immersed in each hole

5-6 seeds are immersed in each hole. After formation on the seedlings, one leaf at a time, you need to leave only 3 seedlings, remove the rest or carefully transplant.

According to lunar calendar for 2018 planting beans is recommended:

• March - 20-23 days;
• April - 6-9, 19, 20, 23-26;
• May - 7-10, 19-24;
• June - 4-7 numbers.

Leaving after disembarkation

Unpretentious beans do not require much attention to themselves, but they still need the basic rules of agricultural technology.

Germinating bean seeds

Bean seeds begin to sprout later 7-10 days after disembarkation... If the air and soil temperature is below the recommended values, then the first shoots will germinate after 5-7 days.

The germination process can be accelerated if the seed is soaked in growth stimulants at home. Covering the beds with a film also contributes to this.

Young shoots must be spud to make them resistant.

Watering rules and conditions

The plant loves water, so you should not break the watering regime. It is especially important to moisturize the soil during the period of pod formation.

The rate of water per bush is determined by eye, the procedures are carried out Once a week, the main thing is not to let the soil dry out. The best irrigation liquid is rainfall. Experienced gardeners use settled water, the temperature of which not lower than 18 degrees.

Beans love water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out.

What top dressing to use in the garden

The culture is responsive to fertilizers. After preparing the soil for planting, you will need to make at least 3 dressings.

The first procedure is performed 3-4 weeks after germination. It is ideal to use a complex fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Superphosphate is also suitable at the rate of 30-40 grams per 1 m2.

After 3 weeks, you need to feed a second time, this is necessary for the formation of fruits (10-15 grams of potassium salt per 1 m2). The third time the nutrients are administered after 3 weeks.

You should not overdo it with fertilizers, you can provoke the growth of tops and reduce the ovary of pods.

Pests and prevention

Beans are one of the few crops that do not attack pests... Only slugs can appear.

Their invasion can be prevented by timely weeding, since weeds grow and create a favorable habitat for parasites. If slugs are found, you can set several traps, from which you need to periodically remove insects for disposal.

The correct timing of harvesting in the country or in the garden

Harvest time depends on the type of crop

Harvest time depend on varieties and types culture. Asparagus beans should not be overexposed in the beds, as the product loses its value when dried.

If you plan to preserve the legume crop, then you can use any unripe fruits. But for winter preparations, it is better to wait for the pods to dry. The main thing is not to be late, so as not to collect beans from the ground later.

You should not pluck all the pods at the same time on the same day if there are completely dry and greenish ones among them. In the shade of its own tops, some ovaries could develop weaker, it is better to leave them to ripen.

To quickly extract the beans from their "houses" it is not at all necessary to sort each one by hand. The stick will do the job, you can knock out the harvested crop.

To do this, exclusively dried pods are laid out on the bedspread, along which with moderate effort you need to walk with a simple tool. It remains only to remove the dry part of the beans. The selected beans are still being dried and only after sorting are they sent for storage.

The agricultural technology of beans is simple, even a novice gardener can sow and grow it in the Moscow region, in the Ukraine, the Urals or Belarus. By completing all the procedures in a timely manner, preparations for the winter are provided with an incredibly healthy and nutritious product, which also diversifies the menu.

Many people are familiar with such a culture as beans since childhood. Soups are made from it, added to salads, stewed, and prepared. Beans belong to the Legumes family. Grows in the form of a climbing herb or shrub. The color of the fruit can be varied, with a very interesting pattern.

Beans are among the ten most useful foods. Due to the content of about 20% protein in terms of energy value, it is equal to meat, the balanced composition of the product supplies almost all body systems with useful substances.

Simple agricultural technology and unpretentious care, the possibility of obtaining a generous harvest of healthy and nutritious fruits - all this prompts you to set aside a piece of land for beans on your site. Even a novice vegetable grower can handle the cultivation of beans. Beans are successfully cultivated in Belarus, Ukraine, the Moscow region, the Urals and even in Siberia.

Dates for planting beans in open ground

Beans planting in spring photo shoots

Beans are a thermophilic crop. They start planting it in the second half of May, when the threat of return frosts has completely passed. The lowest temperature that young seedlings can survive is 0 ° C, at -1 ° C the seedlings die. If the frost was short, then the sprouts will survive, but their development will be slowed down, which will negatively affect the yield.

Covering with a film, agrotextile or the construction of a temporary shelter will help protect against a sudden drop in temperature, as an option - make a fire at night so that it smokes until morning, this will help ward off small short-term frosts.

When planting beans, be guided by the weather conditions:

• At a depth of up to 10 cm, the soil should warm up by 12-15 ° C (according to popular observations, this roughly coincides with the flowering period of chestnuts).
• To start sowing a little earlier (in the future this has a positive effect on the yield), the soil should be "warmed up" by covering it with plastic wrap. After sowing, cover the beds again until the night temperature reaches + 12 ° C.

Erect varieties should be sown first, after a week, start sowing climbing ones.Bush varieties are recommended to be sown in early July (just at this time, the beds will be free after harvesting early-ripening vegetables).

Planting dates for beans in the middle lane and the Moscow region

Experienced gardeners carry out seeding in several stages. From mid-May to early June, beans can be sown at 10-day intervals.

Planting dates for beans in Siberia and the Urals

In open ground, seeds can be planted in early June.

Do I need to soak beans before planting?

How to soak beans before planting and how to process

Seeds are sown directly into open ground without growing seedlings. Whether to soak beans before planting, think carefully: prepared seeds will need to be planted immediately, regardless of weather conditions or sudden cases that have appeared. Therefore, schedule your time so as not to spoil the seed in vain. In addition, soaked seeds must be planted in moist soil, because if there is a lack of moisture, the sprouts will simply die. Therefore, when planting, water the holes and plant the soaked seeds in the mud, or water after planting.

To get earlier shoots and protect young shoots from diseases, it is advisable to pre-treat the seeds before planting.

Start processing in the evening before sowing. The process takes place in several stages:

• For 10 minutes, place in a slightly boron solution of potassium permanganate, then rinse with water.
• Then soak in wood ash infusion for 2 hours, rinse again.
• Wrap in a damp cloth and leave at room temperature overnight.
• Immediately before sowing, dip in boric acid solution for 5 minutes.

When deciding whether to soak beans before planting, consider the following factors:

• If you plant in dry soil and there is no way to water, do not soak it better.
• If it will rain soon and you are sure you will have time to plant, you can soak and not water when planting.
• It is advisable to soak if it is already late, and you want to get seedlings as soon as possible.
• When planting large areas in the field, it is better not to soak, you will not have time to water, and the seeds may die from a lack of moisture in sufficiently dry weather.

Choosing a place for planting beans

Illumination

Choose a well-lit place for cultivating beans, avoid drafts and strong winds. Young, immature shoots are very sensitive to this. Beans are often sown along fences, under apple trees.

Soil composition

Clay soils are contraindicated, since they do not allow water and air to pass through well, and the roots of the plant do not tolerate dampness (they will simply rot). Loose soils with a nutritious top layer are best.

Predecessors

Take into account the crops that were previously grown on the site. Excellent predecessors are carrots, potatoes, cucumber, peppers, tomatoes, eggplant.

Preparing a site for planting beans

Site preparation consists in digging to the depth of a shovel bayonet and adding one of the nutrient compositions (per 1 m²):

1. Compost or humus (4 kg), 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and dolomite flour, 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate.
2. About 2 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of wood ash.

Planting scheme for beans in open ground and planting depth

Planting bush beans scheme:

Planting bush beans photo

The holes are made at a distance of 20-25 cm, in the aisles they keep a distance of 40 cm, planting depth of beans is 5-6 cm.

Planting curly beans scheme:

How to plant curly beans photo

For climbing varieties, the row spacing should be 45-50 cm. They will need support.

Place a few seeds (5-6 pcs) in each hole, pour warm water. When the shoots appear and give one true leaf each, leave 3 shoots in the hole (the rest can be transplanted or simply removed).

Planting scheme for green beans or asparagus

How to plant asparagus beans photo

It is also convenient to plant green beans, or asparagus, in rows: the depth of the grooves is about 5-6 cm, the row spacing is left 40-60 cm wide, in the row between the beans, 10 cm is enough.

How to plant beans in rows, look at the video:

The method of planting beans described in the video is very convenient for use in a summer cottage and a personal plot.

Planting corn and beans together

Corn with beans planting and care photos

Climbing beans are often grown in conjunction with corn. Landing is done under a hoe: shallow holes are made with a hoe, shoveling the earth in one direction, throw 2 corn seeds and 2-3 beans each, rake the hole with your foot and move on. The distance between the rows is 0.7 m, in the row between the holes - 30-40 cm.

Further care of the plants is simple: timely weeding, if it is in the steppe. If at home, you can water occasionally to get a rich harvest.

Planting curly beans in the video:

Do I need to water the beans after planting

When planting in the steppe, the beans are not watered, if this is a personal plot, it is better to plant the beans in the mud and sprinkle with damp earth (before planting, pour some water into the holes or rows). This does not form an earthen crust on the surface, and it will be easier for young tender sprouts to break through.

How many bean seeds sprout

The acceleration of germination is facilitated by the treatment of seeds with a growth stimulant and soaking.

Untreated bean seeds begin to sprout 7-10 days after planting. If the temperature of the air and soil is below the recommended values, then the seeds germinate for 5-7 days longer.

How to care for beans outdoors

Beans are unpretentious in care, requiring minimal effort on the part of a person. It is useful to hud up young shoots in order to give them stability.

How to water

The plant is hygrophilous. It is important to ensure regular, balanced watering if you want to get a lot of beans. Pay special attention to this point during the pod formation period. Watering is carried out about 1 time a week, determine the rate of water for the bush "by eye", the main thing is to prevent the soil from drying out. For irrigation, it is better to use softened water with a temperature of at least 18 ° C. For this purpose, you can install a barrel in the garden to collect rainwater or settle tap water.

How to feed

Beans are usually not fed. However, a high level of agricultural technology will allow you to get a much larger harvest. The culture is responsive to feeding, but don't overdo it. Otherwise, the tops will actively develop, which will reduce the ovary of the pods.

If you have taken care of laying the nutrient layer during planting, it is enough to feed three times per season.

• The first feeding is carried out 1-1.5 months after germination. Apply a complex of mineral fertilizers with an emphasis on nitrogen and phosphorus. You can add superphosphate (30-40 g per 1 m²).
• For the formation of fruits, a second feeding should be carried out 3 weeks after the first. Add 10-15 g of potassium salt per 1 m² of area.
• The third time is fed after another 3 weeks.

Remove weeds from the area regularly.

After watering, gently loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle.

Useful video about growing vegetable beans:

Diseases and pests of beans

Sources of disease are infected seeds, so discard poor quality seeds (shriveled, darkened, unevenly colored, with strange dots or spots) and be sure to pre-treat. Choose more resistant varieties (we talked about them earlier). In southern regions, sow later so that plants form at 25 ° C. Also, a measure of control against diseases and pests is the observance of crop rotation (in the same place they are grown with an interval of about 4 years).

Bean diseases:

Bean anthracnose

• Anthracnose - the whole plant with leaves and fruits is covered with rusty spots.
• Powdery mildew - recognized by the presence of a whitish bloom.
• Ascochitosis - spots with a black core and a blurry outline appear on the leaf plates. The defeat most often occurs at the fruiting stage - it is too late to heal.
• Rust - the leaves become covered with brown spots, which quickly fill the plant, literally killing it. Most often passes from milkweed weeds. If the disease occurred even before flowering, treat with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
• Deforming and yellow mosaic - leaf plates are covered with yellow specks, they become wrinkled, the growth rate slows down. However, the virus may not affect the fetus.
• Bacterial wilting - the edges of the leaves are covered with yellow spots, then they turn completely yellow and fall off. The disease develops in high humidity, so avoid sprinkling.

Bean pests

Pests are not often disturbed. Among them:

• Aphid
• Whitefly
• Bean weevil
• Sprout fly

In addition to the preventive measures described above, timely harvesting (before the pods crack) will help protect the beans from pests. To destroy pests, you should hold the beans in the freezer for 3-4 days.

Before and after flowering, you can carry out treatment with a biological product of a wide spectrum of action.

Bean stems and leaves can attack slugs. It is important to carry out weeding in a timely manner, because gastropods love a cool, moist environment. These pests are collected manually or use special traps.

Harvest time of beans

The timing of harvesting depends on the variety and variety of the crop.

Do not overexpose the asparagus beans in the garden - in the dried state, the quality of the product is lost.

If you plan to use the fruit for conservation, it can be picked slightly unripe. To store the beans dry, you must wait until they are ripe. But don't be late so you don't have to harvest beans from the ground.

Ripening can occur unevenly: in the shade of its own tops, some ovaries remain greenish, and at the tops, the pods are already dry. Remove the last, leave the rest to ripen.

It is not necessary to manually remove the beans from the pods. Take a bag or spread a blanket, lay out well-dried pods, and use a stick or other similar object to walk around with moderate effort. Remove the husk and sort the beans, dry and store. Store in glass jars with a tight-fitting lid (preferably glass or metal).

Bean varieties with photos and descriptions

The common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) is a cultivated species for the purpose of obtaining a crop of beans. Among the varieties (curly or bush), bush beans are most often preferred.

The variety of varieties complicates the selection. Consider the classification depending on the adaptability of the variety to the specific climatic conditions of a particular region.

Bean varieties for Ukraine, Belarus, Moscow region

Green beans Moscow white beans 556 photos

Moscow white green-leafed 556 - forms bushes about 25 cm high. The beans are covered with a very thin parchment layer (it boils rather quickly). The variety is resistant to both drought and high humidity. The period from sowing to technical maturity is 100 days.

Curly beans Nomad photo

Nomad is a climbing variety with medium ripening periods. The beans are ovoid and have a shade of ocher with a pale purple pattern. They do not have fibers and parchment layers, which makes the structure soft and delicate.

Bean varieties for the middle lane and the Urals

Orange - shrub plants 35-55 cm high. Ripening early (80-90 days). The fruits are distinguished by their high taste. With 1 m², you can harvest within 200 g.

Pink - the bush curls, the stems reach a length of about 3 m, needs support. The beans have a marbled pink color and are delicate in texture (fibers and interlayer are absent). It is universal in application (the unique taste is preserved in any form).Ripening period is 65-85 days.

Bean varieties for Siberia

Curly beans with red flowering Photo Winner

The winner is the curly variety. The fruits are large, the length of the pods is about 30 cm. Due to the good immunity, resistance to cold, it is possible to grow in Siberia. The variety has fiery red flowers, which is why it is often used for decorative purposes.

Asparagus beans Butter king photo

Butter king - asparagus beans, ripening period is 1.5 months. Tubular fruits will please even gourmets. The length of the pods is about 25 cm. The application is universal: freezing, canning, preparation of beans in dry form.

Beans are a popular and unpretentious plant. It is pleasant to grow this crop: it grows quickly, and its fruits are used at any stage of maturity. From a variety of varieties with different growing seasons and degrees of resistance, you can choose the one suitable for any region and climate.

The many-sided beans

Beans are valued for their easily digestible vegetable protein, a mass of useful microelements and vitamins. But the plant is beautiful in itself: large leaves resembling lilacs, an abundance of small colorful flowers - from white, pink to purple. And the brighter the color of the petals, the darker the beans.

Flowering begins 40-60 days after sowing and lasts 15-20 days. Gradually, the plant is "hung" with beans or, as they say, pods - flat or round, straight or saber-shaped, variegated or green. And it is not necessary to wait for autumn for the seeds to ripen: immature juicy fleshy shoulder blades of many varieties are eaten in the summer.

A good bonus is that this culture is self-pollinated.

Each variety of beans has a flower of a certain color and original seeds.

Video: the benefits and harms of beans

Bushy and curly

Bush beans are distinguished by their relative cold resistance and earlier ripening periods compared to the curly type. The plant is a branched bush with a height of 25–30 cm to 70 cm. Bush beans are indispensable for growing in regions with short summers, they do not require tying. For better ventilation and lighting, it is recommended to plant such beans in a checkerboard pattern.

Jack and the Bean Kernels: Climbing Plant Varieties

Of course, beans will not reach the sky, as in a fairy tale, but lashes with a length of 3 m or more also look magical. They braid everything that sticks out, stands and grows nearby - hedges, artificial supports, trees. Moreover, a braided fruit tree (beans are friends with an apple tree) does not suffer at all from such a neighborhood. Plant supports are installed prior to sowing.

The beans and leaves of curly beans, or, as it is also called, staked beans, do not come into contact with the ground, therefore they remain clean and healthy. The disadvantages include the relatively late formation of the shoulder blades (2 months after sowing) and increased thermophilicity. Climbing varieties are both green (asparagus) beans and shelling beans, which are grown for the sake of seeds.

Photo Gallery: Curly Bean Supports

What are Asparagus Beans

Whether cooked whole or cut into pieces, these beans resemble asparagus in appearance, and they are said to taste similar. From overripe asparagus (aka sugar, or green beans) seeds are husked, which are sown the next year or cooked as usual. But the special charm lies in the unripe beans with fleshy pulp and unripe beans. If you pluck the next portion of the pods every 4-5 days, new ones will grow with renewed vigor. Asparagus varieties are both bushy and climbing.

Asparagus beans are surprising in both color and length of the pods

What you need to grow beans outdoors

At first, of course, the earth is warm. In soil heated to + 12–15 ° C at a depth of 10 cm, and at an air temperature of + 20–24 ° C, the germination time ranges from 4–5 days to 8–10 days.The culture does not tolerate frost, already at + 3 ° C its leaves turn yellow, so the planting time is adjusted to match the cucumbers. During the growing season, beans need a lot of sunlight, a minimum of wind and regular watering.

Comfortable spot

Beans love the sun, so the south side, protected from the north, is the best place for the beds. Combined plantings, tested by our ancestors, are used: bush varieties fit perfectly between potatoes, curly ones let them trudge along the corn. Separately located bean beds are sheltered from strong winds by curtain plantations. Hot winds dry up the leaves, turning cheerful plants into a lifeless herbarium, and flowers and young tender ovaries fall off. One strip of, for example, the same corn up to 2.5 m high will reliably protect undersized plantings on a plot of land 8–12.5 m wide.

Beans grow well among potatoes and corn

Successful predecessors

Although vegetable beans are relatively undemanding to their predecessors, they are worth paying special attention to. Cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, root vegetables, melons - extra-class options. Of the siderates, preference is given to lupine, which reduces the acidity of the soil. The beans are not planted after the beans, the culture is returned to its original place not earlier than after 3-4 years, so as not to pick up a "familiar" sore or pest. Onions and beans planted side by side have a mutual depressing effect. But after the legumes, any crops are safely planted. Thanks to nodule bacteria in the soil, "deposits" of nitrogen are formed in an easily accessible form.

Photo gallery: after which crops is it better to plant beans

Suitable soil

The issue of the acid-base balance of the soil is approached with attention, especially when a new site is being developed. Any deviations in the direction of increasing acidity or alkalinity have a detrimental effect on plants, although the latter is less catastrophic for beans. So, on acidic beds, nutrients pass into a form that is not assimilable for plants, fertilizers do not "work", the activity of beneficial bacteria freezes, and iron is not assimilated on strongly alkaline soils. Beans prefer well-drained neutral (pH 6–6.5) or slightly acidic soils, such as loam and sandy loam.

You can determine the acidity of the soil at home using litmus paper

Not the best option for beans and soil with a high salt content - salt lick. To independently determine the pH level of the soil, specialized stores sell litmus paper, to which an acidity scale is attached. If, nevertheless, there is a need to improve the quality of the land, this is done as follows:

• to neutralize acidity, the following substances are scattered over the soil surface without embedding: slaked lime (fluff) per 1 m2 - 0.5 kg of lime for strongly acidic soils, 0.2 kg for slightly acidic; dolomite flour (0.3-0.4 kg per 1 m2), it, among other things, increases fertility, since it contains calcium carbonate and magnesium; chalk - 0.4-0.5 kg per 1 m2 of strongly acidic soil, 0.2 kg - slightly acidic; wood ash - 0.2-0.3 kg per square. On deoxidized soils, do not use ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate. Liming is carried out at least a year before planting the beans;
• for desalination (desalination) of the soil in the fall for digging, add gypsum at the rate of 10-30 kg per 1 hundred square meters, watered abundantly; in winter they provide measures for snow retention, in spring digging and watering are repeated;
• the alkaline reaction is reduced by the addition of aluminum sulfate, which is sold in agricultural stores (to lower one pH unit, 550 g of substance per 1 m2 is needed); freeze-dried sulfur (90 g for the same land area); peat, ammonium nitrate.

The right fertilizers

Soil preparation is carried out either in autumn or early spring.In the fall, compost, peat or humus (4 kg per 1 m2) and 250-300 g of wood ash are applied to soils that are tired or with an insufficient amount of humus. Beans are never planted in the same year on soil fertilized with organic matter; this can be done after 2-3 years.

The roots of beans are inhabited by bacteria that assimilate nitrogen from the air, therefore, the abundance of organic matter rich in nitrogen, or excessive enthusiasm for nitrogen-containing chemistry leads to the fact that the growing season of the culture is stretched, and the crops are lodged. Nevertheless, marginal soils need "starting" doses of nitrogen, which are applied at the rate of 20-30 kg per 1 ha (20-30 g per 10 m2 or 2-3 g per 1 m2).

All legumes, including beans, accumulate nitrogen well in the soil and are good precursors for any plants.

The miraculous ability of these bacteria to enrich the soil with nitrogen for the next season gives the soil a special "taste". For example, beets sown in bean beds become surprisingly sweet, which the author has personally seen more than once.

Beans need mineral fertilizers, which are applied during autumn or spring digging to a depth of 25–27 cm: 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2. Immediately before sowing (pre-sowing fertilizer), 30 g of ammonium nitrate is applied to each square. The combination of pre-sowing and pre-sowing soil fertilization contributes to the uniform development of plants and their amicable ripening.

Photo gallery: fertilizer for beans

Choosing a method of sowing beans

There are 2 sowing methods, let's call them conditionally wet and dry.

Wet way

1. On the bed, holes are prepared with a step of 10-15 cm with a distance between rows of 40 cm. For vigorous climbing varieties, the distance between the holes is increased to about 80 cm, while increasing the row spacing to 50-60 cm.
2. A handful of wood ash and humus, compost are added to each hole.
3. The wells are watered with warm water.
4. Place 2 seeds in each with the notched edge down. In this position, the tops and roots are already set the correct direction of growth.

   Lower notch position on bean seed saves growth energy

5. On "normal" soil, the beans are buried by 2–3 cm, and on dry soil, by 4–5 cm.
6. To create a comfortable microclimate, the ground is covered with a film.
7. The shelter is periodically raised for ventilation.
8. As soon as shoots appear, the film is removed and the soil is carefully loosened.

   As soon as bean sprouts appear, the film must be removed.

Dry sowing method

The beds are prepared in the same way, but the holes are not watered... Procedure:

1. The seeds are buried in the ground.

   You need to put two beans in each hole.

2. The holes are designated with sticks.
3. And then the entire bed - rows and aisles - is mulched with chopped grass. The thickness of the layer should not exceed 10 cm. Like the film, the mulching layer creates the necessary microclimate, and no crust forms on the ground.
   

   Dry grass mulch allows you to create a comfortable microclimate for plants in the garden

4. The wells are poured with warm water from a watering can with small holes at the rate of 5–7 liters for each.
5. When the sprouts become visible, the mulch is carefully raked off in order to loosen the soil, and then returned back.

Seed preparation before planting

First of all, before sowing, the beans are sorted by hand to find those affected by the caryopsis bug. It bites into the bean seeds, leaving round holes. Dark spots, which are clearly visible only on white beans, indicate that weevils are sitting inside such "burrows".

Various pre-planting methods are used:

• before sowing, the seeds are kept in a 1% (10 g per 1 l of water) solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, washed with running water, dried;
• soaked in biofungicide (Baktofit, Trichodermin) to prevent powdery mildew;
• immediately before sowing, immerse in an aqueous solution of boric acid (+40 ° C) and ammonium molybdate (2 g per 10 l of water) for 5 minutes;
• spray with a solution of Boric acid: for 1 kg of beans, use 10 mg of the drug, dissolved in 1 liter of water;
• soaked in a material moistened with melt water for no more than 15 hours, and preferably overnight: if you leave the beans to lie longer, they will begin to sour and lose their germination.

When soaking, the beans are covered with a damp cloth or placed on cotton pads

Video: planting beans in open ground

Bean care

The main care consists in weeding, loosening the soil in the aisles and rows, watering. When the plantings grow up, they are mulched: such beds do not dry out, and weeding is minimized. When the beans bloom, they forget about the hoe for a while, so as not to break off the flowers with a careless movement. A variety of supports are installed for curly varieties. If you ignore this technique, then it will be impossible to collect the beans lying on the ground - they will hide under a huge mass of leaves, and the fragile stems will easily break. Hilling plays an important role for bush varieties. Bushes, albeit small, lose stability under the weight of leaves and pods and can fall or break. Therefore, when the sprouts stretch to a height of about 10 cm, they are regularly spud.

Irrigation rates

Beans like regular watering throughout the growing season, the water rate doubles during flowering and bean formation. Watering is carried out in the morning or in the evening, consuming about 15–20 liters per 1 m2 in normal weather. If the beans are grown in the steppe area, drip irrigation systems are used.

Drip irrigation of beans is used in the steppe area

What does the violation of the humidity regime lead to:

• watering against the background of low temperatures leads to the threat of fungal infections, and the ovaries and flowers fall off en masse;
• high humidity in autumn slows down the maturation of seeds, worsening their quality: the amount of protein decreases, the germination rate decreases;
• and the lack of moisture leads to a rapid coarsening of the parchment layer of the bean, and the seeds do not grow to the required size.

Top dressing at different stages of the growing season

The choice of fertilizers intended for dressing is wide - from ready-made complex to folk:

• 15 g of superphosphate + 5 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2 are introduced under the root in the budding phase;
• Foliar top dressing with complex fertilizer with the formula NPK 5: 7: 10 with boron and molybdenum in a chelated form, which allows plants to easily assimilate the metals that make up the drug. Molybdenum has a beneficial effect on the activity of nodule bacteria and increases the amount of protein in the seeds. The first spraying is carried out in the budding phase, the second - after flowering;
• Seedlings and beans in the beds are watered with a yeast solution: dry yeast (10 g) and sugar (50 g) are dissolved in 10 liters of water, left to ferment for 2 hours, and then another 40 liters of water are added to the resulting solution;
• Proponents of organic farming use only mulch as top dressing, which is laid out under the plants and in the irrigation grooves. The mulching layer consists of crushed weeds, green shoots of shrubs and grapes.

Video: what beans love

The main pests and diseases of legumes

The beans have enough enemies: omnivorous bears "mow" the roots of sprouted seeds that curious insatiable crows did not have time to pick out. Chemical preparations are used against the bear, for example, Medvetox, Rubit. They are brought in a week before sowing.

And the crops covered with foil will be protected from birds.

The advice to fertilize the soil with organic matter in the fall has another reason - a sprout fly lays eggs in the undecomposed fragments of manure. The larvae gnaw the bean cotyledons, where they pupate. Sprouts from such seeds are rickety, but in most cases they do not germinate. To get rid of flies, before sowing, the ground is powdered with ash, tobacco dust, watered with garlic infusion or planted nearby.

Photo gallery: bean pests

Typical diseases of beans include:

• anthracnose, which consumes the core of the seed;
• putrefactive lesions, gradually destroying the whole plant;
• incurable bean mosaic covering the leaves with a gray-brown sediment.

In warm, humid weather, most of the garden crops are overcome by powdery mildew, which covers the leaves and fruits-berries with a whitish coating. The affected bushes are removed from the garden. You can treat plants using the coolest chemistry, but how then can you eat asparagus beans without fear of poisoning? The use of biological products in accordance with the instructions (Fitosporin, Trichodermina, Pentafaga-S, etc.) reduces this and other risks to zero..

The nuances of growing in the regions

The method of growing beans in the open field is unchanged, in whatever region it is used. Only the approaches to improving the physicochemical state of the soil and the sowing calendar differ.

Northwest region

Soddy-calcareous soils located to the west of the Leningrad region are rich in humus, minerals, their pH level reaches neutral, therefore, the pre-sowing application of mineral fertilizers will be sufficient here. The predominant podzolic soils are poor soils that require regular autumn, pre-sowing and pre-sowing fertilization. The seedling method of cultivation is practiced, when 2-3-week-old seedlings are planted on the beds. The planting date falls on the beginning of June.

2-3 weeks after the emergence of seedlings, bean seedlings are planted in the ground

Volga region

On the floodplain lands of the Volgograd and Astrakhan regions, sowing beans is possible in the second decade of May. The Astrakhan region is located in the desert and semi-desert zone, therefore mulching the beds is a necessary measure. In dry spring 1-2 pre-emergence watering is carried out. Sowing is carried out in early June.

Mulching is a necessary stage of bean farming in the Volga region

Ukraine

The forest-steppe soils of the region are a patchwork of podzolic, gray, peaty soils and chernozems. On chernozems (Kirovograd, Poltava, Kharkiv oblasts) it is quite enough to carry out pre-sowing fertilization.

Low-lying peatlands are lime with a complex fertilizer with the formula N20-30P40-60K40-60 and drained to divert high groundwater. Transitional peat bogs are more acidic (pH 3.5–5), therefore they are limescale.

The optimal first date for planting beans in open ground is approximately May 15, of course, if nature does not present an unpleasant surprise.

In Ukraine, beans are usually planted in mid-May.

Belarus

Podzolic soils of most of the territory (these are Vitebsk and Minsk regions) require regular application of mineral fertilizers. Organic matter is either applied in the fall a year before sowing the beans, or replaced with compost.

In the east of the country, soddy-calcareous soils prevail, on which it is enough to carry out pre-sowing fertilization. A typical spring in Belarus is stretched out in time; you will not surprise anyone with snow in early May. In such conditions, the beginning of sowing falls on the end of May and the beginning of June.

Moscow suburbs

In the Moscow region, most of the land is sod-podzolic (low-fertile). Obligatory procedures should be regular autumn application of humus, compost and wood ash to the holes, as well as complex fertilizing during the growing season. In late May and early June, beans are sown or planted with seedlings.

In the Moscow region, before planting beans in the soil, it is useful to add wood ash

South of Russia

Salt marshes are a common occurrence for these places, for planting they are cultivated in advance. Sowing in a fertile southern climate is carried out in several stages:

1. In the middle of April.
2. In the middle of May.
3. Closer to June 17-20.
4. At the end of June.

In the South, beans are watered more often than usual (about once every 4 days) or drip irrigation is used.

Ural

The scarce podzolic soils, which are in the majority in the region, require systematic application of doses of humus and mineral fertilizers. The beds are heated by sprinkling with hot water. The first time this is done about a week before sowing, covering the ground with a film after watering.

The second time is hot watering of the grooves before placing the seeds in the ground. Beans immediately before planting are dipped for 15–20 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, heated to + 60 ° C.

In the Urals, before planting beans, it is necessary to lower the seeds in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate

Sowing beans takes place in three stages:

• the first - at the end of May;
• the second - a week later;
• and the third - in the first half of June, provided that it is an early ripening variety.

Siberia

Sowing with dry seeds gives excellent results in Siberia, which remain viable with a temporary deterioration in the weather and themselves catch a favorable moment for germination. During heavy rains, the leaves and beans of bush beans, in contact with the ground, are subject to decay. To avoid this, twine stretched along the rows at a height of 30–40 cm, to which the shoots are tied, will help.

Considering that return frosts in early June are not uncommon for Siberia, seeds are sown at the turn of May-June. Preference is given to bush varieties that ripen in August. Curly beans in this regard are late for a month, when the threat of the first frost increases.

The yield of beans depends on the acid-base balance of the soil, the favorable geographical location of the site and care throughout the season. The culture performed well in combined plantings. Curly varieties, due to their peculiarity, are used as a decorative decoration.

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It is believed that planting beans is a simple matter. Indeed, you can just throw the seeds in the garden and forget about them. Stunted lashes with a pair of limp pods will grow. If you want to have delicious fruits from your own garden on the table, pay attention to the plant, provide the kind of care that this species requires. In areas with short summers, find out how long after planting the crop will ripen and see if this variety is right for you.

Features of beans

Many varieties of legumes are hidden under one name. Before purchasing seeds, you need to decide which varieties you need. Much depends on how you are going to use the crop: cooking unripe pods or making bean soups.

For nutritional use, beans are divided into 3 categories.

• Asparagus produces tender pods without a parchment layer. A very tasty variety, but the harvest can only be preserved frozen.
• Peeling. Only seeds are suitable for food, which, when dried, can be stored for many years.
• Semi-sugar. Young pods can be eaten, but later they harden and only seeds become suitable for culinary purposes.

In addition to the quality of the fruit, there are many more ways to classify this culture. One plant may be completely different from another, it is even difficult to assume that they belong to the same species.

Beans are:

• curly;
• bush;
• erect;
• annual;
• perennial;
• vegetable;
• decorative.

Although the plant came from warm countries, it is not very demanding on temperature. Of course, the sprouts will die during frosts, but at a positive temperature, the grains can be germinated in the open field. The main problem when growing in the northern regions is not the cold summer, but the long duration of daylight hours. The native land of the species is Latin America, located near the equator. The duration of daylight and darkness is approximately the same there, about 12 hours. White nights interfere with the development and yield of beans; it will be necessary to include closure with opaque materials in caring for it.

A big plus for the gardener will be the property of plants to pollinate only with their own flowers.Several varieties of beans can be grown on the garden bed, but the pollen of one specimen will not get onto the others, and all qualities will remain unchanged. If you do not have hybrid varieties, you can safely collect seeds and plant them next year in your garden. All varietal qualities will be preserved, no matter how many other varieties grow in front of the bush.

How to awaken the seeds

When buying planting material, be sure to look at what species the plant belongs to. Asparagus varieties will give you young pods, while hulling only seeds. In any case, the beans must be soaked before planting, otherwise they will not hatch for a long time. When the summer is short, pay attention to the timing of fruit ripening. Try to purchase localized varieties of local breeding that are more hardy, they do not require special care.

Landing times depend on the weather. In order for the beans to sprout, the earth must warm up to + 15⁰, the spring frosts must end. In the southern regions, they begin to plant when the chestnut blooms, and in areas where this tree does not grow, you will have to navigate by the weather forecast and your own intuition. First, put the beans of erect varieties in the ground, after a week it will be the turn of climbing plants. If the summer is warm and long enough, bush beans can be planted in July in the beds where early vegetables and greens grew before.

Go through the seeds, put aside all rotten, damaged, deformed ones. They must be soaked in the evening and kept in water all night. In the morning, select those that have not swollen, and hold the rest for a few minutes in a solution of boric acid (dilute 1 g of powder in 5 liters of water). With this treatment, before planting, the plants will not be afraid of diseases and pests.

Site preparation

It's time to figure out how to plant the beans so they germinate faster. Legumes have their own soil requirements. They do not need excess nitrogen, they themselves are good green manure and enrich the earth with nutrients. The plant does not like soils that do not allow water to pass through well and contain a lot of stagnant moisture. It grows best in sunny areas where there is no strong wind. Remember that legumes can be grown in one place only for one season, you can return to the same bed no earlier than after 3 years, so that pests and diseases do not attack the plantings. But if vegetable crops grew in front of them, the plants develop correctly and enrich the depleted soil.

Advice

Grow beans on poor, nutrient-poor soils. Next year, the garden bed will be saturated with nitrogen and ready to receive vegetable crops.

Dig up the area in autumn, add 0.5 buckets of compost, 1.5 tablespoons of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of ash for each m2. Make rows at a distance of 0.5 m from each other, dig holes at intervals of 30 cm. No more than 3 bushes should grow in each nest, but you can put 5 beans for insurance. Water well and compact the soil. If you are afraid of night frosts, cover the bed with foil.

Planting beans correctly - at a depth of 5 cm. If the soil layer is too thin, the sprouts may fall to the ground. If it is too deep, it will take a long time to wait for seedlings. In this case, the culture sometimes does not germinate at all, the grains rot in the soil.

Plantation care

When the beans have already sprouted, bush varieties should be huddled so that the stems are kept straight. For curly beans, you need to arrange a support: trellises or cords going from top to bottom. You can plant the plant under fruit trees and tie the twine to the branches. The legumes will fertilize the soil for the apple tree, and it will protect the whips from the wind. Do not take slippery materials as a support for the stems: metal, plastic: the lashes will slide off them. Other tall crops (corn, sunflower) are suitable as a support, just make sure that the plants do not infect the same diseases and pests.

Advice

You can drive a stake in the area, tie pieces of twine to its top and strengthen them on the ground around the circumference. Plants will braid the cords, and you get an Indian wigwam for children to play.

For irrigation, you need to use rain or settled water. The temperature of the liquid should not be very different from the ambient air. If you brought water from a well or an underground container, do not pour it directly under the bush, let it warm up.

If you want to get a rich harvest, water the beans in the correct way.

• After planting, water no more than once every 7 days. How much water you need, determine for yourself: the soil should be moderately moist, but not soggy.
• When the fifth leaf appears, stop watering.
• When flowers appear, resume watering as after planting.
• Gradually increase the amount of liquid and decrease the interval between waterings. Moisture should be doubled and more frequently before pods form.

The care also includes fertilizing the beds. Top dressing begins after the appearance of a real leaf. During this period, the plant needs fertilizers with a high phosphorus content. When the buds begin to appear, pour the potassium salt solution over the garden bed, and when the beans form, sprinkle ash under the bushes. Legumes do not need nitrogen, they will take the required amount from the air, and with an excess of nitrates, greens will begin to develop rapidly to the detriment of the harvest. Remember that plants can absorb all nutrients only in dissolved form, after each feeding, water the garden bed.

Manifestation of anthractosis on a bean leaf

Legume diseases and pests

Legumes rarely get sick. Basically, improper care, contaminated soil or planting material is to blame for the occurrence of diseases. To avoid infection, do not plant the same crops in the same area for several years. Soaking in boric acid helps the development of immunity well. As soon as the beans have sprouted and after harvesting, the soil can be treated with a disinfectant "Fitosporin". If the disease appears, dig up and burn the damaged plants, and treat the soil and the rest of the plantings with Bordeaux mixture.

There are 3 main diseases in legumes.

1. Viral mosaic. When infected, dead areas appear on the leaves.
2. Bacteriosis Not only causes the death of this season's plantings, but also remains in the soil for many years.
3. Anthracnose. Brown spots appear on the leaves, then the affected areas acquire a yellow tint and holes.

Beans are dangerous pests: scoops, whose larvae eat greens, and a bean weevil that lives in beans. The larvae can be controlled with insecticides. To prevent weevils from entering the site, sort out the seed, plant only undamaged beans, pretreated with boric acid, and arrange for proper plantation care.

Harvesting and storage of crops

Both green pods and ripe beans are good food. Young fruits can be harvested 15 days after flowering. It is best to cut the pods with scissors in the morning. At this time, they gain the maximum amount of moisture and become juicy. You can eat green beans fresh, in salads, or prepare vegetable dishes.

The kernels are harvested when the pods are dry. Cut off the stems and hang them from the bottom in a dry place with good air circulation. After 15 days, the pods will open easily and the grains will easily separate from the cuttings. If necessary, dry the crop, and then store it in jars under lids. Only fruits from the bottom of the bushes are suitable for seeds. Choose the strongest and most productive plants without signs of disease, collect grains and store them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

You do not need to dig up the roots. Special nodules on the underground part of the plants will continue to work. Biological processes enrich the soil with nitrogen.The remaining root system will decompose and turn into organic fertilizer before the next season.

Growing beans indoors

Grain varieties in cold regions do not have time to yield. Growing beans at home or in greenhouses is more suitable for this area. A bush variety is more suitable for a room, it does not need a lot of room for growth. If you have tall windows, you can plant curly ones as well.

You need to choose a deep container for plants so that the roots can develop correctly. Fill the crates with a mixture of peat, sand and compost with the addition of compound fertilizers. For climbing varieties, provide supports with a height of 1.5 m. Watering and care is carried out in the same way as for planting in open ground.

Plants do not have enough light indoors. Organize fluorescent lighting so that the bean "day" lasts at least 12 hours. Please note that grain yields at home will be low. This option is more suitable for obtaining young pods, although you will not get as many of them as in the garden.

Conclusion

Outdoor cultivation of beans is best done in the southern regions. The ripening period for grain varieties can exceed 100 days. If the grains are planted in June, harvesting will begin in mid-September. Find out if the warm weather in your area will last until early fall. When buying planting material, choose the types of local selection, they are more adapted to the conditions of your territory. The grains must be soaked before planting, they do not germinate when dry.

Bean care includes watering according to a special scheme. In each period of development, plants need a different amount of moisture. Be careful, the volume of the crop depends on it. If everything is done correctly, in the middle of summer you will have enough of young pods, and before the onset of frost, create a supply of grains for the whole winter.