How to properly grow grapes in central Russia?

In the summer cottages of gardeners in the middle lane, unpretentious frost-resistant varieties are often found. These include, for example, "Lydia" or "Isabella". But, unfortunately, they differ in small berries and inexpressive taste. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, species have appeared that give large berries in the harsh climatic conditions of Russia.

Having bought varietal specimens of modern breeding, one can hope for a good harvest, resistance to disease and frost.By the way, the rich taste of a large beautiful bunch will not yield to overseas products. Growing grapes in the middle lane for beginners is recommended to start with early varieties. They ripen in mid-August.

White to pink	Deep lilac to violet
Amber Samara	Agat Donskoy
Muscat Tsikhmistrenko, dessert nutmeg	Kishmish unique
Delight	Brother of Rapture
Northern early	Early purple

Such varieties are considered no less popular: Kesha, Arcadia, Muromets and Cosmos. All of them are distinguished by large, fleshy berries, the size of a small plum. They have a delicate aroma, sweetness and great taste.

When should you buy planting material?

To purchase quality vines, take advantage of the advice of experienced winegrowers.

1. Don't rush to buy. If you decide to buy a seedling in the nursery, do not take the first one that comes across. Assess the situation, compare types, prices. It will be good if there is an opportunity to inspect adult specimens during fruiting.
2. Consider purchasing cuttings from a large vineyard. Agree with the owner about the excursion, ask about the variety of varieties. Try the bunch you like. And then ask to sell the cuttings from the selected grapes. So you are guaranteed to get the right variety, and in addition to it, valuable advice and parting words.
3. Autumn material is usually more hardy than spring material. If he endures the winter cold, then in the spring he quickly grows.
4. It is not recommended for beginners to immediately take on complex and expensive hybrid specimens. They often require increased attention, a certain knowledge base and experience.
5. Purchased seedlings should not be stored. They are recommended to be soaked in clean water and planted in the soil a day later.

Do not take varieties of "elite" grapes on the market from obsessive sellers. Otherwise, you risk buying a "pig in a poke".

Where is the best place to plant?

If you plan to plant one bush, try to find a sunny spot for it. It should be away from trees and bushes. For the future large vineyard, a place with the following characteristics is selected:

• slope from the south, south-west or east side;
• well lit space during the day;
• a place far from groundwater and marshy surfaces.

Do not plant the vine on the north side, under a tree, or near a body of water.

How to plant?

1. The material purchased and soaked during the day is slightly trimmed. The roots are shortened quite a bit, but the shoot is reduced by 3 buds. If there are side layers, they are also removed.
2. The prepared seedling is dipped with roots in a clay solution, and placed in a prepared trench or pit.
3. Consult with experts on how to feed the grapes during planting, at what depth to place the heel of the shank and which drainage is best for your area. Such advice would be better than general advice.
4. If planting is carried out in winter, then a mound should be made around the sprout, and when cold weather comes, cover it with a plastic bottle. From above, the shelter can be covered with mulch or peat.
5. Spring planting involves moistening the planting pit. Having planted the shanks and compacting the soil around them, they make shading. The bright spring sun can burn young shoots.
6. A week later, spring seedlings are watered again, and after the soil dries out, its top layer is loosened.

How to care for a vineyard in spring?

After the start of growth of young specimens, as well as one-year-old and two-year-old seedlings, a number of mandatory procedures are required. Spring grape care is as follows:

• removing weeds under the vine and around the bush;
• loosening the topsoil;
• annual pruning of weak roots at a depth of 20 cm underground (the soil is raked off and pruned);
• spring preventive spraying of plants with Bordeaux liquid before the beginning of the growing season.

How to water properly?

To ensure sufficient nutrition for adult plants, you need to water abundantly several times during the spring and summer season. At a time - at least 15 liters of water under 1 bush. The water in the roots must not stagnate. Otherwise, fungal diseases and decay of the root system are possible. Properly organized drainage will help to avoid this. To understand how often to water grapes in summer, you need to know the temperature regime of the region in summer. In a cold and rainy summer, you can fill the bushes 2 times. If the temperature readings are normal, then you can spend 4 watering season.

If the weather is too humid, then the grapes should be given special attention. Special treatment of grapes after rain is required. High humidity provokes the immediate spread of harmful spores. It is necessary to spray the bushes with multipurpose solutions that can protect against late blight, mildew and powdery mildew.

What is pruning and when to do it?

Middle lane growers perform global pruning twice a year. Pruning grapes in the fall is necessary before sheltering for the winter. Long shoots are shortened, after which it is convenient to lay them in a depression and cover. The spring procedure takes place after opening. Frozen and dry shoots are removed. In addition, during the growth of the bush, the shoots are pinched and pruned for the correct formation of the vine.

In order for the bush to be properly formed, it must be pruned from the first year. Green shoots break off, preventing them from braiding branches. On young specimens, flowering branches are removed, preventing the berries from developing. First years can be exhausted, giving all their strength to growing a bunch. The shoots left behind are guided and tied up.

If you expect to get a powerful plant, then it is better to direct all the shoots left up.

The correct formation of a grape bush from the first year is shown in a video that will help you understand the basic principles of the procedure and prevent mistakes.

How to shelter grapes for the winter?

All hybrid varieties need warm wintering. Therefore, in the fall, before the onset of frost, it is necessary to dig in or cover all the shoots with a covering material. This will keep the plant from freezing. After the autumn pruning, the bush is well watered. Then all the lashes are removed from the trellises and laid on straw or dry leaves. From above, they are covered with spruce branches, a wooden structure, or simply covered with a layer of earth.

If you don't know how to cover your grapes for the winter, it's worth watching the video and getting ready in advance. You cannot refuse to carry out this procedure, otherwise it will not be possible to grow a healthy plant.

Formation of a young bush of grapes - video

Grapes in garden plots in the middle zone of our country can be found more and more often. The achievements of breeders and the enthusiasm of summer residents are doing their job, and the southern vitamin berry "just from the garden" is now a frequent guest on the tables of those regions where it was impossible to think about it before. A vineyard in the country requires the application of strength, but its establishment and maintenance are not insurmountable difficulties.

Growing grapes in the middle zone of Russia

For the successful cultivation of grapes in the middle lane, one must understand the peculiarities of the life of this southern plant.

1. Grapes need sunlight. With its lack, good berries cannot be obtained.
2. Grapes love warmth. For normal growth and formation of the crop in summer, temperatures are needed not lower than 20 ° C. Grape leaves freeze at –1 ° С, and even perennial wood perishes when frosts are stronger than –25 ° С.
3. Grapes are a drought-resistant crop, but with justified watering, the yield increases several times.

If earlier newcomers to viticulture were offered to start by planting Lydia or Isabella, now this advice, even in the middle lane, can hardly be called correct. Rather, on the contrary, the taste of Isabella, going only for wine, can be discouraged from such an interesting activity.And growing many varieties with very tasty berries, especially early ones, is a little more difficult. Any novice grower with basic gardening skills can handle this.

Isabella will grow up with almost no care, but she will also bring a little pleasure

Growing grape seedlings in the conditions of central Russia

The most common way of propagating grapes is from cuttings, it is quite feasible in the conditions of central Russia. Cuttings are cut from strong annual shoots during autumn pruning. Shoots should have a thickness of at least 5 mm, any length for autumn cutting: it is convenient to take 30-40 cm each. Each should have 4-5 well-developed buds. Until February, cuttings are stored in a cellar or refrigerator in loosely tied plastic bags at a temperature of about 0 ° C.

In February, cuttings are taken out and cut into pieces with 2-3 buds. The upper cut is made straight, 2-3 cm above the kidney, the lower slanting 1-2 cm under the kidney. Chopped cuttings are soaked in water for a couple of days. After that, several longitudinal scratches are made in the lower part of the cuttings to facilitate root formation.

Before planting, cuttings are cut so that they have three buds, and the lower cut is made oblique

Cuttings can be planted in any liter container with a substrate, but most conveniently - in plastic bottles with a cut off top and holes in the bottom to drain excess water. Any light soil (sand with earth, sand with peat, pine sawdust, etc.) is suitable as a substrate. The stalk is planted so that one bud remains on the surface. Pour it over with a pink solution of potassium permanganate and cover with a plastic bag for the first time.

Containers with cuttings are placed in a warm place (25-28 ° C). When the first leaves appear, the stalk is gradually accustomed to being without a bag. Good light is definitely needed at this time. After another 3-4 weeks, you should try to pull the stalk out of the substrate. If it holds on tightly, then the roots are already there.

When several leaves have appeared on the cuttings, they may already have roots, but this should be checked

Cuttings are systematically watered with settled water, fed twice with complex fertilizer. For the rest, the main thing in care is compliance with temperature and light conditions. A rooted cutting will become ready for planting in a permanent place as a young seedling by summer.

In the retail network and in the markets, older seedlings are more often sold, which have already lived in the open field for a year and have grown both above-ground shoots and a good root system. Such seedlings are usually sold without a clod of earth, and when buying, you need to carefully monitor that the roots are alive and healthy.

Storage of grape seedlings and preparation for planting

The best time for planting two-year-old grape seedlings in central Russia is the end of April. If they were bought with an open root system, and you can't plant them right away, they must be properly saved. At least, wrap in a large wet sacking: so, in a wet rag, they will quite last a week and a half. In the same state, the seedlings must be taken to the country. If you have to wait several days for planting, you can simply bury them in damp ground.

Before planting, it is necessary to remove all the upper roots, if any, and leave the roots only on the heel itself, cutting off and broken. The seedlings must be soaked for one or two days in water, or better in a weak urea solution: 1 tablespoon per bucket of water, placing both the roots and the vine in the solution. Immediately before planting, the roots are dipped in a mash made of clay, mullein and water.

Second-year seedlings have very strong roots, but before planting, it is better to remove some of those on the trunk.

If we are talking about planting a self-grown seedling in a container (pot, bottle, etc.), the conversation is somewhat different. They will have to be planted only at the beginning of summer, and before that time it is necessary to have time to harden them, taking them out to the balcony on not too cold days.It is necessary to bring the pots with seedlings to the dacha on the day of planting, and just water it well before planting.

Choosing a place for grapes on the site

Grapes can be planted both on level ground and on not very steep southern and southwestern slopes. Dangerous placement in the lowlands and on the northern slopes: damage to fruit buds by late spring frosts is possible. Grapes grow on any soil, except for heavily swampy areas and areas with a close occurrence of groundwater. For planting grapes in central Russia, you need to choose the sunniest areas, well protected from winds, especially northern ones.

All common fruit trees are good precursors for grapes. It cannot be planted only in the place where grapes have already grown before; after uprooting the grape bushes, vegetables, flowers or herbs should be grown in this place for several years. Most often, grapes are planted after vegetables, but it is better to sow siderates - oats, vetch, mustard in the last year before planting grapes.

Almost everything can be planted next to grapes, and its most beloved neighbors are peas, onions, beets, strawberries, cucumbers, sorrel. Not very fond of grapes with tomatoes and corn. Competing for water and nutrients with horseradish.

Surprisingly, grapes do not tolerate being close to marigolds growing even at a distance of 5–6 meters.

Preparation of soil and planting pit for grapes, fertilization

Long before planting grapes, the soil must be carefully prepared. Since in the conditions of central Russia grapes are planted almost exclusively in the spring, this should be done in the fall. Pre-planting soil preparation at the summer cottage consists in digging onto a shovel bayonet with the simultaneous application of fertilizers. In advance, before planting, they enrich the soil around the future bush with rotted manure, phosphorus and potash fertilizers. Of course, they are also brought into the landing pit.

When digging, it is not necessary to throw out pieces of bricks and small stones from the ground: grapes love stony soils.

In the conditions of central Russia, it is better to dig a hole near any buildings that block the grapes from the cold northern winds. A large pit is being dug: its dimensions are not less than 80 × 80 × 80 cm. There are different approaches to filling the pit. In the conditions of the middle lane, it is necessary to force the grapes to take root as deep as possible, and for this you can apply a little trick: make a small barrier to the nutrient layer with fertilizers. To do this, a well-mixed mixture of humus, sod land, sand and mineral fertilizers must be laid on the bottom of a deep hole with a layer of 20–25 cm. You can take a complex fertilizer - for example, nitrophoska, 400 grams, and the rest of the mixture components in approximately equal volumes. The second layer, ten centimeters, must be made of drainage: rubble, broken brick, slate fragments, etc. Through this barrier, the grapes will let their active roots in search of nutrients.

The entire space above the drainage will be covered with soil mixed with humus during planting (approximately 3: 1). On very acidic soils, you can add a couple of handfuls of slaked lime to this mixture. It is impossible to fertilize this soil too much - young roots will be damaged. But it is not necessary to fill up the soil before planting a grape seedling. It will be necessary to bury the seedling in the conditions of central Russia deeply, placing it almost on the drainage layer. And beforehand, a couple of buckets of water can be poured into a pit filled with fertilizers and drainage.

If several bushes are planted at once, you need to know about the distances between them. For low-growing varieties, the minimum distance between bushes in a row should be 1.3-1.5 m, for medium-growing varieties - 1.5-2 m, vigorous ones - from 2 to 3 m.

When planting several seedlings, the pits almost close into a trench, but each has its own seat being prepared

Planting and transplanting grapes in central Russia

You should immediately agree on which seedling you are holding.If this is a two-year-old with powerful bare roots and still without leaves, then it is still early spring. It should be planted in the middle lane in April. If this is the seedling that was a cutting back in February, you grew it at home yourself, and it is in a container, covered in leaves, then you will need to plant it only at the beginning of June. Autumn planting of grapes in the middle lane is possible, but undesirable.

Before planting grapes in a prepared hole, you need to try them on. It will have to be in the hole so deep that only 1-2 buds are visible from the ground. Therefore, it is necessary to pre-pour so much of a mixture of soil with humus so that the seedling, placed with the heel on the bottom, looks out. In advance, it is necessary to drive in a stake for a garter of an intensively growing vine, as well as a piece of a solid inch pipe, through which the first 1-2 years will need to water the seedling to the very roots. If there is enough rainfall in the region, and the soil is light, permeable, the pipe is not needed. Then a small mound is poured and a grape seedling is planted. If this is a strong seedling with an open root system, it is planted like ordinary bushes: set on a mound, spread the roots, fill the hole and water it well. If this is a very young seedling grown at home from a cuttings, you should try to plant it with a lump of earth, carefully removing it from your home container. Such a seedling can be planted higher so that several leaves can be seen from the ground.

A seedling grown from a cuttings in the spring must be planted with a clod of earth, trying not to damage it

If it was necessary to transplant a grape bush, it is quite difficult to do this, and if the bush is more than 5 years old, it is almost unrealistic. Younger bushes can be transplanted in the middle lane, but only in early spring. The older the bush, the larger clod of earth you should try to leave on the roots. The transplanted bush must be well pruned, and a few days before digging it up, watered abundantly, despite the fact that there is still enough moisture in the soil in the spring. The bush should be dug in so as to damage the minimum of the roots, that is, dig a circular trench far from the center of the bush. The roots sticking out of the remaining coma are cut off. A lump is wrapped on all sides with a strong rag, a strong sheet of any material available in the household is placed under the bottom and the lump is taken out. In a new place, the bush is very well watered and mulched.

Grape care, feeding and treatment against diseases and pests

Having planted grapes on a site in central Russia, one must realize that now there will be a lot of work. True, most of the troubles are quite accessible to an experienced gardener, but new knowledge will also be required. Not everyone can visit the site all year round, but there is work in the vineyard in winter. Basically, these are insulation measures: throwing snow on the bushes sheltered for the winter. And the main work begins with the arrival of spring, in the middle lane - around the end of March.

At this time, it is necessary to open the bushes wrapped for the winter. If possible, apply basic fertilizers by burying them in shallow holes. In mid-April, the vines can already be lifted and tied to the trellis. When the thermometer goes through 0, you can spray the grapes with nitrafen or Bordeaux liquid. At the end of April, tie up the vines, distributing them along the stretched wires. In May, in the middle lane, the grapes begin to wake up, but the processes on it go very quickly: soon the buds open, leaves appear, and flowering begins. As soon as the intensive growth of young shoots has begun, the extra ones must be immediately broken out, without waiting for them to grow large and shade the growing berries. At the end of May, you can give the bushes a liquid top dressing.

In the summer, as they grow back, they tie up new shoots, remove extra stepsons and bunches. It is imperative to feed the bushes during the growth of berries, which is most conveniently done by spraying the leaves with solutions of complex fertilizers. August dressings should no longer contain nitrogen.In mid-August, the harvest of early varieties ripens.

September is the main harvest month. If the harvest is very large, foliar dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is required. If there are signs of disease, and the berries have not yet been harvested, the bushes are sprayed with sulfur preparations or potassium permanganate. After the autumn frosts and falling leaves, the main pruning must be done. After pruning, the vines are removed, tied in bunches and covered for the winter. In dry weather, water recharge irrigation is carried out. Shallowly dig the soil around the bushes, introducing rotted manure.

Fertilizers have to be given to grapes systematically, starting from planting. Grapes consume a lot of potassium, so potash fertilizers, preferably wood ash, can be used in maximum doses. In the fall, manure and compost are buried under the grapes, to which you can add superphosphate and ash. In the spring, any fertilizers are used, including nitrogen fertilizers. And two to three weeks before the beginning of flowering, several liter cans of ash should be poured under the bush, sealed to a depth of 10-15 cm and watered well.

In summer, foliar feeding is much more convenient, that is, spraying the bush with weak fertilizer solutions. They are held in the evening. The first such feeding is needed a week before flowering. For her, solutions of complex fertilizers (for example, nitrophoska) are used. The next top dressing is after flowering, as well as with the beginning of ripening of berries. Fertilizing solutions must be prepared strictly according to the instructions on the package.

Sometimes top dressing is combined with spraying with Bordeaux liquid to fight diseases. In the case of a clear absence of diseases, it is better to use wood ash for preventive purposes. During the day, it is infused in water (a liter of ash per bucket). After that, filter it so as not to spoil the sprayer. If the grapes are clearly ill, it is necessary to study the special literature: here you cannot do without powerful medicines, but it is better not to bring diseases to disease. As a rule, they appear only in a poorly maintained vineyard, where they do not pay due attention to fertilizing, watering, and the bushes are not properly cut.

Video: grapes in Nizhny Novgorod

Watering grapes in the middle zone of Russia

Fortunately, in most regions of central Russia, there is usually no shortage of rain, so in other years watering is almost not required: the vineyard does not need extra water. Watering of young bushes is absolutely obligatory: in the year of planting they are watered several times with 4–5 buckets per bush, mulching after irrigation with humus or peat. For fruiting grapes in case of dry weather, even in the middle lane, watering is required immediately after flowering. But before flowering or during it, watering is unacceptable: the bulk of the flowers can crumble from excess water. A lot of water is required during the growth of berries, but watering should be stopped a month before harvesting. But in general, the roots of grapes penetrate deeply, and if there was nothing unusual with the weather, in central Russia they will find their own water.

In almost any autumn, even in the middle lane, water-charging irrigation will not interfere. Without it, the soil freezes deeply, the icy earth spoils the roots. Podzimny watering is carried out after the leaves fall.

Pruning grapes in the middle zone of Russia

Pruning grapes is an art: it is more difficult to learn it than the art of pruning an apple or pear, and for this you need to study the relevant literature. It is impossible to approach a grape bush with a pruner without knowledge. Unless to cut out clearly broken and dead shoots. Pruning can increase the yield several times or, conversely, reduce it to a minimum, and the outcome depends on how skillfully it was performed with hands. Pruning is not needed only in the first year after planting. The first few years can be pruned in early spring, and after entering fruiting - only in the fall.

Without going into the details of the methods of forming bushes, it is possible to recommend, without experience, only thinning pruning: cut out clearly unnecessary shoots thickening the bush. Their number also depends on the grape variety: some varieties are more successful when forming a bush in the likeness of a tree, while others give a dozen or more independent sleeves to grow from the base. Pruning is performed with a sharp pruner, the wounds are not covered with anything. Slices are tried to be done at an angle of about 45o, 1–2 cm above the kidney.

One of the simplest bush formation schemes

In order to facilitate the work of pruning, it is necessary to constantly break out excess green shoots in the summer, while they are very small. The bush reacts to their breaking almost painlessly, in contrast to cutting a ripe vine. Green shoots are removed by hand, breaking them off from the place of growth. Cutting should not be carried out only during flowering.

Correct pruning in the first 3-4 years should be aimed at obtaining the most illuminated bush, which makes it easy to take care of itself and gives a bountiful harvest of berries, each of which will have enough space and sunlight.

Preparing grapes for winter in the conditions of central Russia

In the middle zone of our country, almost all grape varieties have to be sheltered for the winter from frost. Without shelter, only semi-wild varieties can exist, which are usually grown for the sake of a hedge and in some cases for the preparation of simple wines.

Shelter for the winter is done at the end of October. Before the shelter, a thorough pruning of the grapes is carried out, removing also unripe shoots. After the very first light frosts, they break, or even fall off themselves. They should be cut out to healthy, mature areas. After that, the vines are removed from the trellises and lightly tied into bunches so that it is easy to lay on the ground. It will be a good idea to whitewash the vines at this time, especially the lower parts.

Most of the new varieties developed for the middle lane can withstand frosts down to about -25 ° C, so there is no point in wrapping up the bunches of vines too much. However, many gardeners in the middle lane dig deep trenches for shrubs and fill them with a large layer of earth in the trenches. In most cases, this is clearly unnecessary. At the same time, one must envy a good owner if he dug a trench next to the grapes, upholstered it with boards from the inside, puts the vines in the resulting box, covers it with boards, and fills the boards with spruce branches. This is ideal, but it takes time and effort.

If there is less enthusiasm, the bunches of vines should simply be packed more compactly, and covered with slate sheets, plywood, spruce branches, a thick layer of dry foliage, etc. The main keeper of heat for grapes is snow, and the shelter must be designed so that it can cope with frost before a powerful snow cover is established. Wrapping up with old blankets, sweatshirts and other rags is bad: mice will start and gnaw the bark, the grapes will disappear. Mice are not exactly afraid of spruce needles, but they do not really like to inject. Better yet, put a special treat for them - poison. It is not necessary to wrap the vines in plastic wrap, as many summer residents do, in the middle zone: unlike Siberia, frosts here alternate with thaws, and the drying out of the bark during a thaw is no better than freezing.

Lapnik and snow - the most reliable shelter in the middle lane

Reproduction of grapes in the conditions of central Russia

A summer resident in the conditions of central Russia can only recommend one method for propagating grapes - with the help of cuttings, as described at the beginning of this article. The guarantee that a good seedling will grow, subject to strict adherence to the rules, is close to 100%. And the difficulties in growing seedlings from cuttings are not great. All other breeding methods are either more difficult or do not lead to guaranteed success. These are ways such as:

• seed reproduction;
• reproduction by layering;
• grafting of grapes on grapes.

There is too much trouble with seeds, seedlings from cuttings are not produced as quickly and not as powerful as from cuttings, and grafting on grapes is worse than on fruit trees.

Methods of growing grapes in the conditions of central Russia

Grapes are essentially a liana, and to ensure a normal existence, they need strong supports. True, in dacha conditions, he himself is lazy to climb the supports, although most of the young shoots still cling to the tendrils of structures that come close to them. It is these structures on the site that need to be created for grapes.

Growing on a trellis

Trellis cultivation is the main method of forming a grape plant. It can be any structure consisting of vertical posts and horizontal supports. Recently, there are a variety of large mesh nets on sale: both metal and durable plastic. They can also serve as such supports. But traditionally, tapestries are arranged by driving strong posts or metal pipes into the ground. Different grape varieties have a bush of different sizes. There are also very powerful ones, for example, one of the new varieties in the middle lane Furshetny, for it the pillars can be three meters high, but usually they try not to create bushes above 2.5 meters for convenience. Therefore, the pillars must be of the appropriate size.

Tapestries can be constructed from any suitable material at hand

Several horizontal rows of wire are pulled between the posts. The lower tier is at a distance of 50 cm from the ground, the subsequent ones - every 30–50 cm. In the spring, overwintered vines are tied horizontally to the lower wire. Powerful green shoots growing in summer are tied up vertically, at the same time breaking out unnecessary ones. Leave 20-30 shoots per adult bush, depending on the variety, sometimes even up to 50. They monitor in time both the number of shoots and the mass of the future harvest, removing extra brushes.

Growing in a greenhouse

With the advent of frost-resistant grape varieties, greenhouse cultivation is slowly becoming a thing of the past, but it is still often used, including in the conditions of central Russia. Of course, grapes are not tomatoes, and the construction of greenhouses for such a large plant requires considerable investment, but when you want an early harvest, they go for this: most varieties ripen in a greenhouse two to three weeks earlier.

The device of greenhouses requires money and in the middle lane is more suitable for industrial cultivation of grapes

Bushes are planted in a greenhouse more often than in open ground: after 1-1.5 meters. The greenhouse protects the grapes from hail, unnecessary rain, light frost. We are talking, of course, about the unheated version. In the greenhouse, grapes are watered at least three times per season, combining watering with top dressing. They stop watering a month before the litter of the harvest, but they also carry out winter watering.

In the summer, you have to ventilate the greenhouse, monitor the humidity of the air. Shelter for the winter is also required in the greenhouse.

Benefits of greenhouse grape cultivation:

• guaranteed harvest;
• prolongation of the warm period, allowing the vine to grow and the berries to ripen;
• the convenience of caring for grapes in bad weather.

Flaws:

• high cost of the crop;
• the risk of diseases of the bush due to poor ventilation;
• lack of natural lighting of berries.

Greenhouse grapes, of course, are also useful, but if you remember how we are waiting for a summer cucumber from the garden, although greenhouse grapes are sold all winter in stores ... That's about the same with any fruit and vegetables.

Growing in barrels

In the middle lane, you can grow grapes even in barrels, placing them on a glazed loggia. Growing in barrels in garden plots is hardly worth it, although this is done in the northern regions. In the middle lane, the climate is quite favorable for growing grapes and "no frills". And in barrels ... The barrel should be 250 liters. Drainage is placed at the bottom, then fertile soil. The vine is grown for no more than 10 buds, that is, the harvest is small. When grown in summer cottages, barrels for the winter, along with vines, are dropped in the open ground, and in early spring they are brought into a greenhouse, where they are kept until the berries are set. At the beginning of summer, grapes are taken out to the garden and placed in the sunniest place. In barrels, grapes can grow up to 8-10 years.

Growing in containers

If there is no room for placing a huge barrel, you can try to use smaller plastic containers: 50 liters. Or you can just take a regular plastic bag measuring 50 x 50 x 50 cm. getting the harvest. Of course, the berries can only be tasted. The maximum is to collect another small crop, but after that the plant will simply begin to lack soil, and it will have to be transplanted into the ground (open ground or greenhouse) by cutting the container.

Smolensk method of growing grapes

In the last decade, such a concept as "Smolensk Ridge" was born. The technology developed in the Smolensk region allows to grow excellent yields of high-quality grapes, which are in no way inferior in sugar content to most southern berries. The essence of the technology is planting on high ridges. It allows the layers of soil directly adjacent to the roots to warm up quickly in the spring, and cool down in the fall, when the bushes need to hibernate.

Smolensk inventor Yuri Chuguev at his garden

As a result of planting on high ridges, the berries ripen a month earlier than when planting in the usual way. With this technology, it is easier to care for the bushes. The slopes of the ridges are made gentle, and the snow evenly and reliably covers them in winter. From accidental freezing in especially harsh winters, the ridges are covered with corrugated cardboard.

All basic operations with grapes are performed a little differently in comparison with conventional technology. So, the timing of harvesting cuttings and the technology of their rooting have been shifted. For the second winter, very young seedlings are transplanted into containers and withstand winter at a low positive temperature. Already completely independent plants are planted in ridges from containers, which in a year already give the first berries.

The Smolensk technology is very interesting, and there will undoubtedly be those who wish to use it. A detailed description is easy to find on the Internet.

Growing on a long vine

The term "growing grapes on a long vine" only means the way the grapes are planted. Then an ordinary bush develops, which is looked after by forming on a trellis. Inexperienced summer residents do not always succeed in planting ordinary cuttings in the middle lane, and in this case, you can try another planting method. It actually needs a long vine: a young shoot up to two meters long. This shoot is cut off in the fall, soaked for a day, and then buried in the planting hole, twisting it in a spiral in the hole and releasing only 1-2 buds from the hole. They are covered with earth, watered and left for the winter, covered with spruce branches or spunbond.

Often more powerful roots are formed on a long vine, but an irrigation pipe buried in a hole is definitely required: the lower parts of the vine need water, from where the roots will form.

Features of the cultivation of various types of grapes in the conditions of central Russia

In addition to the usual edible grapes, many gardeners plant decorative varieties of this vine on their plots just to decorate the garden. And cultural grapes are not always grown in the form of a familiar liana.

Maiden grapes

Maiden grapes are a decorative liana, used mainly to decorate the site, since they very quickly twine around all the supports provided to it with beautiful shoots and leaves. In spring and summer, its leaves are dark green, in autumn they are red. Curly shoots cling to any possible obstacles, they can grow up to 20 m in height. The dark blue small berries are completely inedible.

Maiden grapes are used to decorate the site

Maiden grapes can grow anywhere, and in the middle lane, there are no obstacles to its cultivation. On the contrary, it often becomes very annoying on the site, so you must first decide where to plant it. He can damage many structures that come his way.

It can be grown from seedlings, but it reproduces well by self-sowing, in fact, being almost a weed. Care is required only in the first years: several watering and loosening around young bushes. Then - only pruning interfering shoots. It is completely frost-resistant and does not require any shelter for the winter. Resistant to most diseases and pests.

Standard grapes

In the standard form, that is, in the form of a tree, in central Russia, only the most winter-hardy varieties can be formed that do not take shelter for the winter. The formation of the trunk in trees occurs naturally, and in the case of grapes it must be carried out by correct pruning. The height of the trunk can be from half a meter to two meters.

The grape tree is easy to maintain but difficult to cover for the winter

Formation of standard grapes takes several years and is carried out strictly according to the rules that can be found in special literature. The standard crop allows you to increase the total number of berries per plant by a third. Care is also made easier, and some operations become completely unnecessary. But the harvest on standard grapes is somewhat late in comparison with the usual form of the bush. In addition, stronger supports are needed. The main limitation still lies in the fact that standard grapes cannot be covered for the winter, and therefore this form is more preferable for the southern regions.

The cultivation of grapes in central Russia is becoming commonplace. The climate of most regions is quite suitable for the ripening of many grape varieties, and caring for them is only slightly more difficult than in the wine-growing regions of the country. Desire, diligence and some new knowledge will allow you to grow southern berries in any summer cottage.

Graduated from the Chemistry Department of Moscow State University in 1981. Candidate of Chemical Sciences, Associate Professor. Rate the article:

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Over the past decades, grapes in the orchards of central Russia have already become a fairly familiar culture. On the sites of experienced amateurs, the earliest southern varieties, carefully covered for the winter, successfully grow and bear fruit. Breeders have also created special hybrids with increased frost resistance, the cultivation of which is easy even for a novice gardener.

What grapes can be grown in central Russia

By nature, grapes are a heat-loving southern plant. Its advance to the north from the zone of industrial viticulture is hampered by several factors at once:

• low winter temperatures;
• short growing season;
• lack of summer heat.

Nevertheless, over the past half century, in the orchards of central Russia, great success has been achieved in the amateur culture of the earliest southern grape varieties, and sufficiently winter-hardy resistant varieties have been created that can winter without shelter and bring annual stable yields.

Moscow region grapes on video

There are three main areas of northern viticulture:

• growing grapes in greenhouses;
• covering culture of early grape varieties in the open field;
• growing frost-resistant non-covering varieties.

The greenhouse culture did not receive special distribution among amateurs due to its excessive labor intensity and high cost.

Southern grape varieties can be grown in unheated greenhouses

Covering culture of early southern varieties in the gardens of the middle lane is quite possible, albeit troublesome.

For almost half a century now, my neighbor in the garden has been growing several varieties of grapes brought from the Crimea during her youth. Our plots are located on the top of a small hill with well-cultivated sandy soil. In general, our Middle Volga climate is very close to that of the Moscow region, we have only a little hotter and drier summer and a little harder winter. Of course, some of the varieties brought over have disappeared for such a long time. Of the remaining, the most valuable are the Pearls of Saba and White Shasla. It is interesting that isabelle varieties of Crimean origin in our conditions freeze out without shelter according to the level of snow, each spring growing again from the root, while our local grapes are of the same type (most likely this is Alpha, widespread in the middle lane under the erroneous name of Isabella) wintering well on walls and gazebos, giving annual harvests without any maintenance at all.

Photo gallery of grape varieties for the middle lane

Grape varieties for central Russia (table)

Isabel (Labrusca) grapes are complex hybrids produced with the North American wild Labrusc grape. Hybrids with the participation of wild Amur grapes, often referred to the same economic group of varieties, are very close to them in their characteristics. Their main advantages:

• increased winter hardiness (up to -35 ..- 40 ° C without any shelter);
• regular and very abundant fruiting;
• high disease resistance (in our area, on the Middle Volga, labrus grapes are not sprayed with anything at all - there is simply no need, he is not sick with anything);
• resistance to phylloxera (this is the worst pest in southern vineyards).

The real Isabella is a very late southern variety. In the middle lane, other varieties are hidden under this name, most often Alpha, as well as unnamed seedlings from varieties of this group.

As for the flavor of the berries ... the isabelle varieties have a very distinctive flavor and aroma that cannot be confused with anything. Fresh, they do not have many fans, but for processing (wine, compote, jam, you can mix it with other fruits and berries) they are very good.

Rumors about the supposedly mortal danger of isabelle grapes are being actively spread by competitors - European wine producers from traditional grapes. At least, the Italians themselves continue to preserve and care for the planting of their famous fragolino (an Italian variety of the isabelle type), not at all intending to get rid of them. And in excessive doses, any alcohol is generally harmful.

Alpha grapes on video

Planting grapes in central Russia

When properly planted in a good location, grapes can grow and bear fruit for many decades without reducing yields.

Selection and preparation of a plot for a vineyard

Ideal vineyard plots in central Russia:

• well-lit and sun-warmed slopes of the southern, southeastern and southwestern directions;
• protected from cold northerly winds by building walls, capital fences or dense forest belts;
• fertile, deeply cultivated sandy loam or light loamy soils, easily permeable to water and air.

Grapes thrive on warm and light southern slopes

Strongly unsuitable for the vineyard:

• northern slopes;
• areas shaded by buildings or large trees;
• peat bogs with close groundwater;
• damp lowlands with heavy clay soil, where water stagnates in spring.

The optimum acidity of the soil should be in the range of 6.5–7.2 for traditional European grape varieties, or 5.5–7.0 for complex hybrids of the Labrusk and Amur groups. It is necessary to analyze the soil no later than a year before planting the vineyard, in order to reduce acidity, if necessary, by adding lime or dolomite flour. Lime materials are evenly scattered over the site before deep digging and embedded in the ground.It is impossible to bring them directly into the pits during planting, this can burn the roots of the seedlings.

Optimum soil acidity for grapes from 5.5 to 7.2

Arrangement of trellises and arbors

For their normal growth and fruiting, grapes need a reliable support, the frame of which is made of durable metal pipes or wooden beams impregnated with an antiseptic. Winter-hardy non-sheltering varieties can be grown on arbors of any height and configuration. Various supports attached to the south side of the house are well suited for grapes.

Supports for grapes can be conveniently attached to the southern walls of buildings

For covering grapes, it is not advisable to arrange supports higher than two - two and a half meters. When planning the entire structure, there should be sufficient space for the autumn laying of the vines on the ground.

Covering grapes for the winter are removed from the supports and laid on the ground

The simplest support for grapes is a trellis of several pillars with a wire stretched between them. The distance between adjacent pillars is about two meters, they are dug into the ground for at least half a meter, and for reliability it is better to concrete. On long trellises, the extreme pillars must be reinforced in one of the following ways:

• from the outside of the trellis, small anchor posts are dug into the ground under a slope outward, the extreme posts are tied to them with a tightly stretched thick wire;
• the extreme pillars on the inner side of the trellis are firmly supported by inclined additional pillars-stops, the lower ends of which are dug into the ground.

The distance between adjacent trellises should be about two meters. They are placed in the north-south direction so that the grape bushes are better and more evenly illuminated by the sun throughout the day.

The extreme pillars of the grape trellis should be carefully strengthened.

The wire on the trellis is pulled in three or four parallel rows with a distance between them from thirty to fifty centimeters. If the grapes are covering, instead of the traditional wire, you can stretch a strong synthetic rope that can withstand one or even several seasons.

For permanent supports, especially for uncovered grapes, all wooden parts must be impregnated against decay, and the iron parts must have a protective coating against rust.

Selection and planting of seedlings

In central Russia, it is best to plant grapes in spring, from late April to late May. With a later planting, he runs the risk of not having time to root well over the summer. Seedlings should be purchased only in specialized nurseries in your region.

In no case should you plant seedlings of dubious origin brought from the south: firstly, they have insufficient winter hardiness, and secondly, with southern seedlings, you can bring into the garden the most dangerous quarantine pest - phylloxera, which is not yet in central Russia. Any seedlings from an unnamed roadside bazaar are a potential source of danger.

Before buying, check that the seedling is alive, not dried out or rotted. Seedlings with an open root system can only be taken before bud break. Container seedlings can also be with blossoming leaves, in this case, after planting, they need light protection from bright sunlight and possible return frosts.

For planting grapes, deep holes are dug with a drainage layer at the bottom.

• Pits for grapes are needed large, 60–70 centimeters deep and 80–100 centimeters in diameter. It is better to dig them in the fall. The distance between adjacent pits should be at least a meter; to save energy, you can dig holes in two to three meters and plant two seedlings in each from opposite sides of the pit.
• At the bottom of the pit, a drainage layer of broken brick, crushed stone, fragments of slate and other similar materials must be placed. Drainage is especially necessary on loams and clays, where water stagnation is possible.
• On the side of the pit opposite from the future planting site of the seedling, it is advisable to place a piece of asbestos-cement pipe in such a way that its lower end rests against the drainage layer, and the upper one slightly rises above the soil level around the pit. At the top, this piece of pipe must be closed with a lid from a tin can or a cut plastic bottle to avoid the entry of various debris. This system will allow you to properly water the grapes in the future, supplying water to a sufficient depth directly to the roots. The irrigation pipe must not be placed very close to the seedling: in winter, the roots may freeze. The optimum distance from the seedling to the pipe is about 70 centimeters.
• A layer of fertile soil mixed with humus and fertilizers should be poured over the drainage. The approximate rate of fertilizers per pit: 1-2 buckets of decomposed humus or compost, 200-300 grams of superphosphate, 50-100 grams of potassium salt. Nitrogen fertilizers, lime and fresh manure should not be applied during planting.
• In the process of planting, a small mound of prepared fertile soil is poured into the pit, on which the seedling must be laid with an inclination in the direction where the vines will be laid when sheltering for the winter. Non-covering varieties can be planted vertically.
• The roots of the seedling must be evenly spread to the sides and covered with a layer of earth. With proper planting, the bottom of the seedling (heel) should be at a depth of about half a meter from the soil surface.
• If the buds of the seedling have not yet woken up, you can immediately completely cover it with earth so that one bud remains above the surface. If a seedling with blossoming leaves, it is planted at first shallow, and then, as the shoots grow, the earth is gradually added. For the first summer, all the land taken out during the digging should return back to the pit.
• The planted seedling must be carefully watered with two buckets of water from a watering can with a spray, so that the soil evenly settles and compresses.
• After planting, you can cover the pit with the seedling with a piece of film or agrofibre, pressing the edges of the covering material with stones to the ground. Such a shelter is especially important for early planting of seedlings with already blossoming leaves.

Features of caring for grapes in central Russia

During the summer season, the main concern in the vineyard is to prevent the grapes from turning into an impenetrable jungle. It grows very quickly, and the shoots left unattended get mixed up in a completely unthinkable way.

With winter-hardy, non-covering varieties, everything is simple: shoots growing in the right direction, if necessary, are tied to a support, growing in an undesirable direction, or they are bent back where necessary and fixed on a support in a timely manner, or cut or pinched. The main task in this case is to get a beautiful and uniform green cover on the wall of the gazebo or house. Labrus varieties grow very rapidly, and they yield a crop even in the absence of any formation.

Winter-hardy Alpha grapes grow rapidly, forming a dense green canopy

When working with covering varieties, you always have to remember that in the fall there will be hard work to remove the vine from the supports and lay it on the ground. In industrial viticulture, for each variety, an individual system of forming a bush and normalizing the yield is used, taking into account the design of the trellis, varietal characteristics, the state and level of development of each specific bush. This is how they achieve maximum yields of the best commercial quality. In amateur conditions, especially for novice gardeners, it is enough to get at least a small harvest of their own grapes, which is quite achievable without excessive wisdom.

For more than forty years my summer cottage neighbor has been receiving a small harvest of early southern grapes of the Shasla Belaya and Zhemchug Saba varieties every year. Its grapes ripen at the end of September, the tassels are small, but the berries are very sweet and tasty.At the same time, she does not make any differences in care between her varieties (she still grows some kind of Crimean variety of the isabel type, less tasty, but more productive, as well as Lydia, which almost never really ripens), and the entire summer formation is reduced to tying vines according to the principle "so that it is beautiful and comfortable" plus a thorough shelter for the winter (she also shelters isabelle varieties because of their southern origin).

The Lydia grape is a southern late variety of the isabelle type, in the middle lane almost never ripening to the end

In the climatic conditions of central Russia, grapes rarely need watering, only in the absence of rain for a long time. It is best to water in the wells-pipes established in advance when planting, at least two or three buckets of water for each plant, no more than twice a month (for very young plants in extreme heat, watering once a week with a bucket of water). Frequent shallow watering for grapes is very dangerous: in such conditions, the bushes move to dew roots lying at the very surface of the soil, freezing out during winter frosts. Do not water during flowering (excessive moisture reduces the setting of berries) and at the time of harvest ripening (berries crack from uneven moisture).

Grapes bloom in the first half of June. Damp and cloudy weather during flowering interferes with normal pollination and causes the formation of underdeveloped small berries (the so-called pea grapes). Most modern varieties have bisexual flowers and do not need to be planted with additional pollinating varieties. Flowers and young shoots of grapes can suffer from recurrent frosts, sometimes it is even necessary to cover them with agrofibre, so it is better to place the lower wire of the trellis low above the ground.

During flowering, the grapes are very vulnerable, suffers from troubles and even rains.

The soil in the vineyard must be kept loose and free from weeds throughout the season. Mulching the soil with any organic matter or special agrofibre will help get rid of weeds.

The first two to three years after planting the grapes have enough fertilizers applied to the planting pit when planting the seedling. Mature vineyards are fertilized annually in the spring. It is most convenient to arrange liquid feeding (dosage per 1 adult bush):

• 5 liters of water;
• 30-50 grams of superphosphate;
• 15-20 grams of potassium salt;
• 25-30 grams of ammonium nitrate.

A freshly prepared fertilizer solution is poured into irrigation wells twice a season:

• 8-10 days before flowering;
• 8-10 days after the end of flowering.

In wet rainy weather, instead of a fertilizing solution, dry fertilizers are used in the same doses, evenly distributing them over the entire area of ​​the trunk circle and shallowly embedded in the soil.

In spring or autumn, you can bring half a bucket of well-decomposed compost or humus under each bush, using it to mulch the soil or shallow it into the ground when digging.

The main diseases of grapes:

• oidium (powdery mildew);
• mildew (downy mildew);
• gray rot.

In the middle lane, the first two are very rare. In practice, in most cases, chemical treatments can be dispensed with if you acquire initially healthy seedlings and keep the vines in good condition, in a sunny place and without excessive thickening. Rotten brushes in a rainy autumn can be simply cut off with a pruner and buried deeper into the ground outside the site. Labrusk varieties do not get sick at all. There is no terrible phylloxera (grape root aphid) in the middle lane yet. Therefore, northern grapes can and should be environmentally friendly.

My neighbor doesn't use any pesticides at all. But thanks to a well-lit, ventilated area and the absence of external sources of infection, all her grapes are healthy and clean, even varieties with low disease resistance.

Shelter grapes for the winter

In the fall, after the onset of the first frost, the covering grape vines must be removed from the supports and laid on the ground for shelter. The youngest plants of even winter-hardy labrus varieties can also be laid on the ground and slightly covered for reliability. The simplest shelter is a piece of fiberglass or agrofibre, laid on top of the vine and crushed by stones at the edges so as not to be blown away by the wind.

The simplest shelter for grapes is to lay the vine on the ground and cover it with a piece of fiberglass, pressing the edges with stones to the ground

Non-resistant varieties must be covered more thoroughly:

1. Remove the vine from the supports; Tear off the leaves carefully and carry them into the compost heap, if they have not crumbled by themselves.
2. Lay a coating not subject to decay (plastic, fiberglass, roofing material) on the ground near the bush, carefully lay the vine on it, without breaking it.

   The grape vines are laid on a non-rotting litter

3. Secure the grapes on the ground with hooks or low arcs. You can loosely tie the vines into a bunch.

   The covered grapes must be fixed to the ground; for convenience, the vines can be loosely tied together

4. You can additionally insulate the grapes with coniferous spruce branches or reed mats. Insulation should not rot from moisture or attract mice, so straw and sawdust are not suitable.
5. Put arcs on top and cover with a dense plastic wrap so that a small air space remains under the shelter. Press the edges of the film with stones and sprinkle with earth. This should be done when stable temperatures are established around zero or a couple of degrees below.

   Then the grapes are covered in arcs with dense polyethylene, sprinkling its edges with earth

Winter drying out during thaws is dangerous for grapes no less than frosts. Therefore, one should not rush to cover, and during long winter thaws, ventilation may be necessary, for which the film is slightly raised from the ends.

In the spring, the shelter must be removed immediately after the snow melts. At first, the grapes can be left open for a short time, but not tied up, so that, if there is a threat of frost, it is easy to cover it with a film or agrofibre.

Autumn pruning reduces the winter hardiness of the grapes. In the spring, during sap flow (just before budding), pruning is also dangerous - there will be a strong "cry" of the vines, which is very depleting of the plants. The optimal pruning time for the middle strip is immediately after bud break, when the sap flow has already ended, but the leaves and shoots have not yet begun to actively grow. When pruning grapes above the bud, be sure to leave a stump of two to three centimeters. The first step is to cut out everything that has dried up, broken and rotted during the winter, as well as excess and weak shoots. If there are enough good healthy vines left, too long ones can be shortened, and some of the oldest ones can be cut out altogether.

After pruning, the grapes are tied to a support, trying to distribute more or less evenly over its surface, taking into account the expected summer growth of shoots.

Reviews

Growing grapes in central Russia is not particularly difficult if you choose the right variety and place for planting. A huge advantage of this region is the absence of dangerous quarantine pests that annoy the southern vineyards. And the most winter-hardy hybrid grape varieties grow well even among novice gardeners, not requiring either winter shelter or complex care.

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Growing grapes in the middle lane, forming a bush, pruning for beginners + video

In the summer cottages of gardeners in the middle lane, unpretentious frost-resistant varieties are often found. These include, for example, "Lydia" or "Isabella". But, unfortunately, they differ in small berries and inexpressive taste.Thanks to the efforts of breeders, species have appeared that give large berries in the harsh climatic conditions of Russia.

Having bought varietal specimens of modern breeding, one can hope for a good harvest, resistance to disease and frost. By the way, the rich taste of a large beautiful bunch will not yield to overseas products. Growing grapes in the middle lane for beginners is recommended to start with early varieties. They ripen in mid-August.

White to pink	Deep lilac to violet
Amber Samara	Agat Donskoy
Muscat Tsikhmistrenko, dessert nutmeg	Kishmish unique
Delight	Brother of Rapture
Northern early	Early purple

Such varieties are considered no less popular: Kesha, Arcadia, Muromets and Cosmos. All of them are distinguished by large, fleshy berries, the size of a small plum. They have a delicate aroma, sweetness and great taste.

When should you buy planting material?

To purchase quality vines, take advantage of the advice of experienced winegrowers.

1. Don't rush to buy. If you decide to buy a seedling in the nursery, do not take the first one that comes across. Assess the situation, compare types, prices. It will be good if there is an opportunity to inspect adult specimens during fruiting.
2. Consider purchasing cuttings from a large vineyard. Agree with the owner about the excursion, ask about the variety of varieties. Try the bunch you like. And then ask to sell the cuttings from the selected grapes. So you are guaranteed to get the right variety, and in addition to it, valuable advice and parting words.
3. Autumn material is usually more hardy than spring material. If he endures the winter cold, then in the spring he quickly grows.
4. It is not recommended for beginners to immediately take on complex and expensive hybrid specimens. They often require increased attention, a certain knowledge base and experience.
5. Purchased seedlings should not be stored. They are recommended to be soaked in clean water and planted in the soil a day later.

Do not take varieties of "elite" grapes on the market from obsessive sellers. Otherwise, you risk buying a "pig in a poke".

Where is the best place to plant?

If you plan to plant one bush, try to find a sunny spot for it. It should be away from trees and bushes. For the future large vineyard, a place with the following characteristics is selected:

• slope from the south, southwest or east side;
• well lit space during the day;
• a place far from groundwater and marshy surfaces.

Do not plant the vine on the north side, under a tree, or near a body of water.

How to plant?

1. The material purchased and soaked during the day is slightly trimmed. The roots are shortened quite a bit, but the shoot is reduced by 3 buds. If there are side layers, they are also removed.
2. The prepared seedling is dipped with roots in a clay solution, and placed in a prepared trench or pit.
3. Consult with experts on how to feed the grapes during planting, at what depth to place the heel of the shank and what drainage is best for your area. Such advice would be better than general advice.
4. If planting is carried out in winter, then a mound should be made around the sprout, and when cold weather comes, cover it with a plastic bottle. From above, the shelter can be covered with mulch or peat.
5. Spring planting involves moistening the planting pit. Having planted the shanks and compacting the soil around them, they make shading.

   The bright spring sun can burn young shoots.

6. A week later, spring seedlings are watered again, and after the soil dries out, its top layer is loosened.

How to care for a vineyard in spring?

After the start of growth of young specimens, as well as one-year-old and two-year-old seedlings, a number of mandatory procedures are required. Spring grape care is as follows:

• removing weeds under the vine and around the bush;
• loosening the topsoil;
• annual pruning of weak roots at a depth of 20 cm underground (the soil is raked off and pruned);
• spring preventive spraying of plants with Bordeaux liquid before the beginning of the growing season.

How to water properly?

To ensure sufficient nutrition for adult plants, you need to water abundantly several times during the spring and summer season. At a time - at least 15 liters of water under 1 bush. The water in the roots must not stagnate. Otherwise, fungal diseases and decay of the root system are possible.

Properly organized drainage will help to avoid this. To understand how often to water grapes in summer, you need to know the temperature regime of the region in summer. In a cold and rainy summer, you can fill the bushes 2 times.

If the temperature readings are normal, then you can spend 4 watering season.

If the weather is too humid, then the grapes should be given special attention. Special treatment of grapes after rain is required. High humidity provokes the immediate spread of harmful spores. It is necessary to spray the bushes with multipurpose solutions that can protect against late blight, mildew and powdery mildew.

What is pruning and when to do it?

Middle lane growers perform global pruning twice a year. Pruning grapes in the fall is necessary before sheltering for the winter.

Long shoots are shortened, after which it is convenient to lay them in a depression and cover. The spring procedure takes place after opening. Frozen and dry shoots are removed.

In addition, during the growth of the bush, the shoots are pinched and pruned for the correct formation of the vine.

In order for the bush to be properly formed, it must be pruned from the first year. Green shoots break off, preventing them from braiding branches. On young specimens, flowering branches are removed, preventing the berries from developing. First years can be exhausted, giving all their strength to growing a bunch. The shoots left behind are guided and tied up.

If you expect to get a powerful plant, then it is better to direct all the shoots left up.

The correct formation of a grape bush from the first year is shown in a video that will help you understand the basic principles of the procedure and prevent mistakes.

How to shelter grapes for the winter?

All hybrid varieties need warm wintering. Therefore, in the fall, before the onset of frost, it is necessary to dig in or cover all the shoots with a covering material. This will keep the plant from freezing.

After the autumn pruning, the bush is well watered. Then all the lashes are removed from the trellises and laid on straw or dry leaves. From above, they are covered with spruce branches, a wooden structure, or simply covered with a layer of earth.

If you don't know how to cover your grapes for the winter, it's worth watching the video and getting ready in advance. You cannot refuse to carry out this procedure, otherwise it will not be possible to grow a healthy plant.

Formation of a young bush of grapes - video

Grapes: growing and care in central Russia

Grapes are grown very often in central Russia. However, there are a number of features that relate to climatic conditions. To get the harvest of this crop, gardeners adhere to the following recommendations:

• an annual seedling is planted in a container (bucket, pot, etc.), and not in open ground. This is due to the fact that for the winter the plants are transferred to the basements;
• a strengthened bush in the second year can be planted in the ground at a permanent place of growth;
• planting of plants of the same variety is carried out in groups, which allows you to monitor the state of less cold-resistant bushes;
• the selection of seedlings should be done in local vineyards. So the plants will be already accustomed to the existing climatic conditions.

Thus, how to grow grapes in the middle lane depends on many factors: climate, weather conditions, variety, planting format, etc. The main thing is to choose grapes for the middle lane.After all, otherwise, caring for plants will be much more difficult, and the yield is low.

Which variety is right

Growing grapes in the middle lane for beginners and professionals always starts with the choice of a variety.

To get a harvest that is excellent in taste, you should choose the best grape varieties for central Russia.

These varieties include Bulgaria, White Beauty, Early Bashkir, Crystal Laura, Arcadia, White Miracle, Kishmish 342, etc. They meet the following requirements:

• good frost resistance;
• easy care;
• resistance to many diseases and parasites;
• good taste characteristics (when choosing wine grape varieties for the middle band, always pay attention to their taste characteristics).

It is worth noting that early grape varieties for the middle lane give a much faster harvest than later ones. Therefore, it is precisely such varieties that should be given preference in this climatic zone.

Planting Secrets

To grow grapes that bear fruit well, you need to properly plant the purchased seedling. The planting procedure consists of several stages. Let's consider them in more detail.

Sapling selection

A good and healthy seedling should be selected first. It is best to purchase it from a well-known nursery or from familiar breeders. The seller needs to find out all the nuances of growing the purchased plant. After all, each variety has its own growing characteristics and care requirements. They are indicated on the label and can be found in any specialized literature.

Seedlings should be purchased in the spring (March or April). They must have a well-developed root system and a healthy appearance. After the purchase, the plants should be treated with Kinmix or BI-58 preparations. They process all planting material. Such actions will protect the bushes from the pest - phylloxera.

Site preparation

Another important aspect of planting grapes is the choice of the planting site. How to choose the right place? It all depends on the variety purchased. However, there are the following selection parameters that are relevant for almost all varieties of this culture:

• the place should be closed from the winds from the north side (a fence or building wall is required);
• the site should be well lit and warm;
• well-drained soil, water in the ground should not stagnate.

Focusing on these parameters, you can easily and quickly choose the optimal place for planting purchased seedlings in your summer cottage.

Planting methods

It is recommended to plant grapes in the second half of June. Sometimes you can perform this procedure in July. But planting grapes in autumn with seedlings will not be the most successful idea.

But if planting grapes in the fall is inevitable, then you need to make every effort so that the plant has time to take root before the cold weather. Also, such bushes need proper shelter for the winter.

Otherwise, they can freeze and die.

Before planting, seedlings are stored in perforated paper bags. In early May, plants can be planted in 5-liter buckets. In this container, seedlings will grow until June. You need to put the bucket on the sill of the south window.

How to plant planting material depends on the type of soil:

• in the trenches. It is used if the soil is sandy;
• in high beds ("created"). It is used if the soil is loamy or clay. There should also be shallow groundwater.

Whichever method of planting is chosen, it is necessary to properly care for the plantings.

Care features

You need to understand that proper care allows you to accelerate the formation of fruits, as well as their ripening. If you monitor this crop properly, then even in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, you can collect a bountiful and tasty harvest.

Since grapes grow most abundantly in summer, it is during this period that they need special care. It consists of the following procedures:

• pruning grapes;
• watering and irrigation;
• top dressing;
• applying dressings;
• preventive treatment;
• shelter for any grape variety for the winter. In the middle lane, it is especially important to do this correctly.

If the care is timely, then propagation by cuttings can be carried out without problems. As a result, you can save on the purchase of new seedlings.

Trimming and shaping

Pruning grapes is an important care step. How to accelerate the ripening of grapes? You need to cut it off correctly.

It must be understood that pruning grapes involves several operations. It can be chasing grapes, pinching or pinching them. Moreover, it is necessary to do the chasing of grapes especially carefully.

To increase the fruiting of the bush, you need to remove excess shoots, whiskers and vines from it. Thanks to this, the plant will direct all the nutrients obtained from the soil to the ripening of fruits. However, remember that to get the desired result, you need to mint, pinch and pinch in accordance with all the rules.

At the end of the season, grapes are pruned to prepare them for winter.

Watering and soil care

For abundant fruiting, it is important to properly water the grapes in the summer. Watering is especially important for young plants that have only recently been planted in open ground.

To avoid stagnant water in the soil, you should know how to water the grapes. For a better water supply to the roots, you can dig a plastic bottle with a cut-off bottom into the ground. Watering is done through the neck. You can not resort to sprinkling - this method provokes the appearance of fungal ailments.

Wine varieties are not as demanding on watering as table varieties. However, in both cases, watering the grapes in August, when the berries are ripening, is most important. But during the flowering period, watering stops, otherwise you can get shedding of color.

After watering, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Fertilizer

Fertilize the bushes several times during the season. Top dressing of grapes is carried out with mineral and organic fertilizers. These fertilizers contain all the elements necessary for fruiting. Top dressing is carried out along with watering. Grapes for the winter in the middle lane should be fed so that they can survive the winter.

Treatment against diseases and pests

During the season, grape bushes need to be sprayed against pathogens and parasites. For protection, both chemicals and folk remedies are used. Weed removal will also be an effective prevention.

Preparing for winter

How to cover grapes for the winter? This question worries many gardeners. After all, if you do not know how to prepare grapes for winter, plantings can be lost. They just freeze and die. The bushes are covered first with straw, and on top with a film. The entire structure must be securely fixed so as not to fall apart in winter. In the spring, after the frost has passed, the shelter is removed.

As you can see, planting grapes, growing and caring for them in the middle lane are not so complicated procedures. If desired, a beginner can also cope with them.

"Growing grapes in the middle lane"

In this video you will learn how to grow grapes in the middle lane.

Secrets of growing grapes in the middle lane for beginners: varieties, planting, care

If you live in a region with harsh winters, where temperatures often drop below -20 degrees during this time of the year, then you still shouldn't give up growing a vineyard. If you follow the advice of experts, then even in such harsh conditions you can get a good harvest of this beloved crop by many.

Grapes are one of the popular crops that can be found in almost every summer cottage. Landowners living in regions that are not in the south usually choose to cultivate Isabella variety... It is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and can give a good harvest even in the most unsuitable conditions for this.

Many people use it for decorative purposes, although it also has disadvantages. During the fruiting period, it grows berries of very small sizes, which, in addition, taste sour. But amateurs and professional winegrowers did not lose hope of finding varieties that would have the most important qualities for them - increased frost resistance and large sweet berries.

And today the stores offer a fairly large assortment of grape varieties, which have a variety of shades of taste and color of berries, as well as the shape of the brushes. Among this varietal variety, everyone can choose the best grape variety for their site.

If you can get your hands on a really good varietal seedling, then you can count on a good harvest. In order for the grapes to delight you in spring and summer not only with flowers and green foliage, but also with berries, you should choose the following winter-hardy varieties for growing:

• Amber Samara;
• Delight;
• Muscat Tsikhmistrenko;
• Dessert Muscat;
• Aleshenkin;
• Crystal;
• Laura.

If you would like to see grape varieties with berries from blue to dark purple on your site, then you will certainly be interested in the following varieties:

• Brother of Rapture;
• Agat Donskoy;
• Early purple;
• Cardinal;
• Kishmish is unique;
• Codryanka.

The varieties listed above have many fans in our country, which is not surprising, because at the end of the season they grow large sweet berries, thinning the beautiful delicate aroma.

What is important to know about planting grapes?

Choosing a landing site

The highest grape yields can be obtained only if you choose a place for it, protected from northern winds, with good illumination. Do not forget about the soil, which must have good drainage.

Grapes thrive when planted in rows from south to north... If there are even slight slopes on the site, it is recommended to plant grapes on the southern or southwestern slopes.

If there is not a single unevenness on your site, and you cannot use the southern wall as a place for planting a vineyard, since there is no more free space, then you just have to build a fence up to 2 m, placing it in the direction from east to west.

Grape planting methods

In areas dominated by sandy soils, it is recommended to plant seedlings in trenches in spring. If you got a plot with a predominance of loam or clay, or it has a close location of groundwater, then it is best to plant grapes in high beds.

Rules for caring for grapes in the middle lane

You should not rush to transplant new varieties to a permanent place. Allow the young seedling to grow until it starts bearing fruit. In the meantime, you keep them in school, it will be easier for you to look after them. It will also be easier for you to protect them from frost.

Winegrowers from the northern regions do not try to plant young seedlings in a permanent place immediately in the first spring. Instead, in the first year, they transplant them into a large container, after which in these containers they drop the vines up to half into the soil.

When the temperature drops below zero, the containers are transferred to the basement, where they are left until the beginning of spring. They are transferred to a permanent place from the container no later than the end of May.

Plan your vineyard. If you managed to get a variety of table and wine grapes in the spring, then you should plant them separately from each other. Please note that they have different planting patterns.

Table grapes must be planted with a spacing between the bushes of at least 1.5 m. In the case of long varieties, they are placed in an area with a higher frequency of placement. An interval of 0.8 m is optimal for the bushes of these varieties.For comfortable care of them, it is recommended to make a row spacing of 2-2.5 m.

If you know to which frost resistance group the variety that has fallen into your hands belongs to, then it will be easier for you to care for it in central Russia.

Saplings that were brought from Europe or warm areas, as well as grafted saplings, must be planted in a horizontal position. If during the entire time of their development they will be in a supine position, then this will help them very soon build up their own root system and quickly get used to new weather and temperature conditions.

Formation of grape bushes

An important activity that must be carried out regularly when growing grapes is the formation of bushes.

The whole variety of shaping methods existing today can be represented in the form of two groups - sheltered and undisguised.

When using fan and separate cordon forming methods, the bushes must be covered for the winter. Because of this, they received the name of the sheltered ones.

The grapes that are being spent standard or arbor formation, it is not necessary to cover for the winter. It makes sense to use gazebo and standard shaping in the regions of central Russia only when it comes to frost-resistant grape varieties.

The yield of grapes directly depends on how well the berries ripened on the vine of the current year. The eyes will give the opportunity to grow out of them for the next year to fruit lashes.

Stamp molding method

During the first year, the seedling is carefully looked after so that it can form a sufficiently strong root system. The formation of the bush is carried out only in the second year of life, starting in spring.

In the future, this continues to be done regularly for 5 years. After creating the base of the skeleton of the bush, further shaping is not required. From this point on, the grapes are grown in the usual way.

The only thing that needs to be done is to carry out maintenance pruning in the fall. To do this, in adult bushes, it is necessary to remove 90% of one-year lashes, as well as cut out the lashes of the current season, on which there are ripe bunches. Additionally, you need to cut out all thin non-fruiting whips.

Formation of grapes according to the Guyot method

In the northern regions, good results bring not standard forming of grapes... This is a classic version of the formation of such a culture.

The credit for its creation belongs to the Frenchman Guyot, who invented it in the 19th century.

At that time, an experienced winegrower came up with the idea of ​​creating a simple formation, which made it possible to avoid shading the grape bunches with excess green mass and ripen perfectly.

• During the first year a powerful whip grows from the vine bushes, which is cut off in the fall, with the exception of two eyes located above the ground or above the grafting site. Sometimes, with this molding method, it is allowed to leave three eyes.
• In the second year from uncut buds, two one-year lashes are formed. They are cut into short (replacement knot) and long. Moreover, in the first case, it is imperative to leave 2-3 kidneys.
• In the third year carry out a horizontal lash garter. As a result of this operation, one-year fruit lashes should form from the buds. Next, they should be fixed so that they grow straight up simultaneously with the lashes from the replacement knot. All this should help accelerate their development.

After warm weather is established, the offering vine is tied along the ground to a trellis wire. Moreover, this should be done taking into account the polar verticality of culture. Such an operation will help stimulate the growth of one-year fruit lashes from the buds of the eyes of the fruiting vine.

Each lash from the buds of the replacement knot must be fastened to the trellis wire vertically. This will provide them with good growth. Scourges that bore fruit this summer must be cut off.Moreover, it is necessary to remove everything down to the bitch.

Forming a bush using the "Fan" method

A feature of this method of formation is that grapes are grown not in two fertile arms, but in five or more. For support, the sleeves must be fanned vertically. Depending on the length of the spawning arms, a suitable shaping option is determined.

Vine bushes may have different sleeves. They can be large and small, standard and non-standard, single-tier and multi-storey, requiring a garter of fruit lashes one above the other.

For the northern territories, the most suitable method is a special non-standard formation, a kind of "Fan" or "Half Fan". Thanks to the use of this method of shaping, it is easier to cover the grapes, as well as the formation of sleeves and rejuvenation of the bush. If carried out correctly, you can significantly increase the crop yield.

During the first 2-3 years, grape care is carried out according to the same scheme as in the case of using the Guyot method.

From the third year, they begin to shape the sleeve. As a result of such an event, two vines should be formed on one arm.

In the future, three-year-old bushes form four-meter lashes, which must be removed in the fall as much as it is necessary to leave the sleeves. At the same time, the lashes should be cut in length by at least 0.5 m. They must be tied to the lower crossbar of the trellis in the form of a fan. Attach them to supports at a height of no higher than 50 cm from the ground.

Soil care

To obtain a good harvest, it is necessary to regularly fertilize the grapes. Mandatory event is autumn digging, which is combined with top dressing.

To compensate for the deficiency of all important micronutrients, one bush is added up to 10 kg of manure, 50 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt and 100 g of superphosphate... Feeding continues during the growing season. Directly before flowering and during the formation of ovaries, watering must be carried out in combination with the introduction of liquid fertilizers.

For one bush, the fertilizer consumption rate will be 20 g of superphosphate + 10 g of ammonium nitrate. Dissolve in a bucket of water before fertilizing. Top dressing must be carried out strictly at the root or through the drainage grooves.

Caring for grapes involves constant loosening of the soil in rows and aisles. During the season, it is necessary to loosen grape bushes more than 6-7 times.

Watering and feeding

It is necessary to start watering the grapes with young seedlings. It is most convenient to water and fertilize if a plastic bottle with a cut-off bottom is dug into the ground for each seedling.

Best suited for this purpose are 2 and 5 liter bottles, which are bursting into the ground with their neck down. But before that, they need to unscrew the plugs.

Using such a simple device, even novice gardeners can simplify the process of caring for this crop.

When growing table varieties, meter-long asbestos pipes are installed instead of watering bottles in 2-3 years.

If technical varieties of grapes are grown on the site, then the irrigation containers are removed after three years. A feature of technical varieties is that they are able to independently extract water from the soil due to a well-developed root system, which can penetrate to a considerable depth.

Conclusion

Growing grapes is a rather difficult undertaking, especially if it is done in the conditions of central Russia. Besides the fact that it is necessary to create optimal conditions during the summer season, it is important to ensure that the vines are able to survive the frosty winter well.

However, today there are many different varieties of grapes, among which you can find many frost-resistant, which are ideal for such areas. The main attention should be paid to care during the growing season.

Vine bushes need constant watering.Also, an important procedure on which the yield of this crop depends is formation.

It must be carried out in a timely manner and correctly, otherwise it may subsequently affect the yield.

Growing grapes: tips for beginners and photos on

The extreme climate of a sunny berry is not a hindrance. And getting a good grape harvest in the second or third year after planting is an achievable goal even for beginners.

So how to stop dreaming and start growing grapes ...

First, let's decide on the two most important tasks in growing grapes - we will choose a place for planting grapes and the varieties that we will plant.

In principle, the vine will grow almost everywhere (except for a solid shade), and if you take care of it, at the very least it will bear fruit. However, competent planting in the right place will allow you to get really good yields with much less effort.

Remember that planting seedlings of low-quality varieties in a vineyard will take your time, energy and good mood. You may be undeservedly disappointed in the grapes, although the mistake will be entirely yours.

Place for planting grapes

The vineyard should be sunny and sheltered from the wind, for example by the southern wall of a house, a barn or a south-facing fence with well-drained soil. If there is a minimum slope on the site, plant the grapes on a gentle southern or south-western slope, orienting the row in the south-north direction.

If the plot is flat and the southern walls are occupied, create a place for your grapes by building in any convenient place on the plot a nice solid fence 1.8–2 m high, oriented along the "east-west" line.

And you will immediately understand the secret of the monastery vineyards! You can also use for this purpose dense hedges or screens from available materials, for example, from vines or reeds.

Tips for a new wine grower

• The method of planting grapes depends on the type of soil. Variants are possible, but usually it is recommended to plant grapes on sandy soils in trenches, and on poorly heated loams and clays and in areas with close groundwater occurrence, it is recommended to plant on ridges, which in the old days were called "created".

For watering and fertilizing the grapes, I place plastic bottles with a cut-off bottom between the seedlings. For table varieties, as the bushes grow older, I replace them with asbestos-cement pipe trimmings, and for “techies” (wine varieties) I remove them altogether after three years. Mature wine grapes have to get their own water from the soil, and the deeper the roots, the better the wine from its berries.

• Do not rush to plant seedlings "for permanent residence", especially if these varieties are on trial. Let them live until the first signal brushes in the school (where it is easier to cover).

  In the first year, some northerner growers do not plant seedlings in open ground at all, but keep them there in mobile containers (for example, in buckets), half buried in the ground.

  In autumn, containers with seedlings are moved to the basement, and in late spring they are planted. Such seedlings begin bearing fruit earlier.

• Don't spontaneously plant vines. If your grape bushes are not in a "spot" planting, planning of the vine plot is necessary. Group varieties by purpose, as they have different planting intervals.

  The distance between bushes of varieties for juice and wine purposes is 0.8 m, for table varieties - at least 1.5 m, between rows - 2–2.5 m. It is advisable to clarify the strength of growth of the selected varieties in order to correctly calculate the desired place.

  The grouping of varieties by ripening and frost resistance will facilitate the care of the grapes. You will not need to spray and cover everything to the maximum.

• Do not plant grafted seedlings (from European and southern nurseries) vertically, but place them practically lying at the maximum possible angle, otherwise there will be problems with the ripening of the vine. Gradually translate them into your own roots.

• Remember that grapes have the property of vertical polarity. When opening, tie a fruitful arrow on a trellis or stakes only horizontally - then all annual green shoots will grow equally. With a vertical garter, shoots grow intensively only from the upper eyes, and from the lower ones, they grow weakly or do not grow.

• Limit watering. It is only obligatory to water young vines for the first 2 years and water-charging watering, which is common for all varieties, in the fall. Stop watering 7-10 days before the expected flowering, as excessive moisture causes the color to shed and delays the ripening of the crop.

• Do not use sprinkling, otherwise you will provoke disease. Arrange drainage channels and place irrigation pipes on the side of the row spacing no closer than 30-50 cm to the base of the bush. Grapes do not like wet leaves and damp ground. If possible, arrange a visor over the grape bushes.

• Conduct green operations sparingly and on time. Simultaneous removal of all growth points on the shoot is unacceptable: both chasing the top and pinching the stepsons. After all, there is a danger that the wintering buds of the bush will start to grow and its potential will dramatically weaken. Do not break the stepchildren completely, leave 1-2 sheets. Carry out minting in August, immediately after straightening the crown.

• Pruning the grapes is necessary, otherwise the berries are crushed, and the bush will grow unnecessarily. But in the year of planting, there is no pruning, except for the removal of unripe green parts of the shoots in the fall.

  From the 3rd year, cut the shoots according to the recommendations (short or long pruning), but do not mindlessly follow the recommended total load, since your conditions - relief, soil, the sum of active temperatures (CAT) - will correct it.

  Write down from which bud the fruiting shoots grow specifically for you.

  Read more: Pruning grapes for beginners . 

• Do not carry out autumn pruning before natural leaves fall or night temperatures are below freezing (early November). Do not prune in the spring, as the "crying" of the vine (sap outflow) weakens the plant.

  Read more: How to stop the crying vine>. 

• In the north, it is more reliable to use non-standard formations of a fan or semi-fan type, and not high-standard ones, including for arbors.

Read more: Cordon formation and pruning of grapes.

Read more: Forming grapes for growing on a gazebo>.

• Winter shelter for the first 2-3 years is needed for all seedlings. The first year the grapes grow tied to a temporary trellis. In autumn, shoots are removed and covered with a two-three-layer air-dry shelter.

  As a bedding - spruce branches or a board, on top of the seedlings - a layer of spunbond or corrugated cardboard and a film on top (roofing paper, old linoleum). Snow will complete the rest.

  Leave ventilation slots at the ends of the shelter.

• Do not remove the cover immediately and completely in the spring. And when removed, leave a couple of layers of spunbond or lutrasil nearby in case of frost.

• Record the timing and characteristics of planting, flowering, ripening, pruning and loading of grapes in a diary. Otherwise, the most valuable information for the analysis of variety testing will be forgotten and lost. And you and the next generation of northern winegrowers, who will definitely come after you, need it so much.

How to grow grapes in the middle lane.

Winter hardy grape varieties

The most necessary requirements for grape varieties in the Moscow region and to the north are frost resistance, the ripening period of the crop and vines. But you shouldn't put so-called “non-concealment” at the forefront. This concept is relative and does not depend on the variety, but on what are the minimum temperatures in winter in your country house.

In the first step, choose the earliest frost-resistant varieties. Later, with experience, an understanding will come that northern viticulture also provides us with certain bonuses, for example, in the form of long daylight hours, which partially compensates for the missing warmth of the grapes.

And then you can try growing later varieties.

In addition, in the north, there are practically no diseases and pests of grapes. However, it is always better to prevent danger. There are so-called complex-resistant grape varieties - with high resistance to both frost and disease.

Read more about grape diseases and how to treat them.Also determine the purpose of the grapes. Why do you need it: for the table, for juice and wine, for decorating the gazebo, or just "so that there was"? Today there are more than 15,000 grape varieties, so there is plenty to choose from.

For beginners, I would advise tasty and unpretentious table varieties ‘Agat Donskoy’, ‘Aleshenkin’, ‘Yubileiny Novgorod’, universal ‘Platovsky’, ‘Crystal’, ultra-early table ‘Krasa Nikopol’, as well as some universal Amur hybrids A.I. Potapenko and F.I. Shatilova.

Those who have children should pay attention to the super-early and tender-sweet varieties ‘Liepaisky Yantar’ and ‘Early Tsiravsky’ (selected by G.E. Vesminsha), as well as the ‘Krasa Severa’ variety with a high content of useful folic acid.

From the listed grape varieties, select no more than four to five for the first planting.

How to buy grape seedlings and rooting cuttings

The most reliable sources of planting material are winegrowers' clubs and forums, where enthusiastic and experienced gardeners and collectors communicate, as well as MOIP and TSKHA. You should not buy seedlings and cuttings at spontaneous roadside markets and exhibitions (of course, this does not apply to the stands of well-known nurseries).

How to buy grapes and choose a good seedling.

You can ask a question to the author of the article, wine grower Olena Nepomniachtchi, here .

You can find out how to grow other plants, what kind of gardening work you need to plan, from other articles on our website. Also, please pay attention to the information block to the left of the text. The links located in it lead to articles of related topics.

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