How to properly grow peonies so that they bloom all year round?

Hello dear readers!

Let's continue talking about peonies, about these romantic flowers that so excite our imagination with their unusually bright colors and enchanting aroma.

I am always looking forward to the flowering of peonies, because when on a warm sunny day you approach a huge flowering bush, inhale this wonderful aroma, touch the fragile and delicate silk petals, you understand how beautiful our life is and all the troubles that happen to us - it's simple nonsense.

In the previous article, we got acquainted with the history of peonies, with their healing properties, with biological characteristics and with a variety of varieties.

Today we will talk about how to properly grow peonies, take care of them, about the secrets of the lush flowering of peonies.
Peonies are very popular among flower growers not only because of their beauty, but also because they can easily reproduce, and can also grow in one place for a long time.

And if the plant is planted correctly and in the future to devote at least a little time to it, then the peony will delight us with its lush flowering for many, many years.

Site selection and soil kitchen

The decorativeness of the peonies, and their vitality and longevity depends on how correctly we choose a place for planting peonies. After all, peonies are not particularly fond of transplants, and they can “live” in the same flower bed for more than a dozen years.

Therefore, the place for it must be chosen especially carefully so as not to disturb the plant once again.

With regard to the planting site, the peony is very capricious, and if he does not like it, then you can not wait for flowering. And no matter how diligently you look after him (feeding, watering, loosening) - the peony will not bloom. So, as soon as possible, we dig out our capricious handsome man and transplant to another place.

It is best if it is an open, sunny place, but at the same time, protected from strong and cold winds.

Peonies do not like wet wetlands, so if in the place where you plan to plant them, groundwater comes close to the soil surface, then it is worth planting plants in raised bulk beds.

It is not recommended to plant peonies closer than 2 m from buildings, because this creates very unfavorable conditions for their growth: in spring and autumn, increased soil moisture due to drops from the roof; and in summer, overheating of plants is possible due to the fact that the walls radiate heat.

It is also undesirable to plant peonies close to trees and shrubs, since shade and a constant lack of water and nutrients will interfere with their blooming luxuriantly.

I told you, dear readers, about general recommendations for the place of planting of peonies, but what wishes your plant will have specifically will need to be checked in practice.

For example, my neighbor in the summer cottage has peonies growing beautifully and blooming magnificently at the very wall of the house.

Although peonies can grow on all types of garden soil, they will develop in different ways.

So, for example, on sandy soil, they have more stems, leaves and buds of renewal on rhizomes, while the stems grow thin, the leaves and flowers are medium-sized.

If your soil is clay, then the plants develop slowly: the number of stems does not increase so quickly and, accordingly, peonies multiply more slowly, but the stems grow thick, the flowers are very large and the leaves are powerful.

It is believed that loamy, nutrient-rich soils, well-drained but sufficiently water-absorbing soils, are best suited for peonies, since such powerful plants with large leaves simply need water throughout the growing season.

The peony does not like to grow on peat soils, due to the fact that the plant lacks moisture on them, then its excess, then overheating, then hypothermia - no constancy.

In addition, the increased acidity of this soil can cause such a dangerous disease as gray rot.

Therefore, if you have such a soil, then before planting, you just need to add ash, sand, bone meal, as well as organic fertilizers to it, thereby reducing its acidity.

Sandy loam soil can also be improved by adding a little clay and peat and, of course, organic fertilizers.

When to plant?

The time of planting peonies largely depends on the growing area, as well as on what kind of planting material you have.

These can be parts of an old rhizome obtained by dividing it (delenki), or young plants purchased from nurseries.

Delenki are best planted from mid-August to mid (end) September, since during this period the peony already has sufficiently formed renewal buds on the rhizome, but the formation of small suction roots has not yet begun.

If the summer was dry, then the buds of renewal may be delayed in their development and then the planting time can be postponed for 1-2 weeks.

It is important to remember that a peony takes 6 weeks to root well.

Of course, if the weather is warm for a long time, then you can start planting peonies in October, but it's better not to risk it.

A plant planted in late autumn requires special care, since it will go unrooted in winter. Therefore, it must be properly covered for the winter.

First, sprinkle the roots with peat or loose earth with a layer of 10-15 cm, and then additionally cover them with foliage or spruce branches on top. Better, of course, spruce branches, if you have one.

In the spring, covered in this way, late plantings must be undone and well watered if the weather is dry.

Good rooting of such a peony and its further development will largely depend on the amount of moisture received.

In the spring, I strongly do not recommend planting and replanting peonies. Because the buds of renewal in peonies begin to grow very early, when the soil has not yet thawed and, by the time when it will be possible to start transplanting and dividing the bush, the sprouts can already grow up to 10-15 cm.

And since they are very delicate and fragile, then during the planting process there is a high probability that the sprouts will break, bend.

Transplanted, and especially those divided in spring, peony bushes, as a rule, lag behind in development from the bushes planted in autumn for a whole year, and under unfavorable weather conditions, the plant may die.

But in the spring it is good to plant young peonies bought in nurseries or specialized stores, which, with such a planting, will have time to acclimatize and grow well before winter.

Preparation of planting holes

Peonies have a rather powerful root system, which grows in depth and in breadth, so it is necessary to prepare a planting hole at least 60-70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If we dig a hole not deep enough, then the roots of the peony, having reached solid ground, will stop growing.

Do not forget to put drainage at the bottom of the planting pit. It can be gravel, coarse sand, or broken brick.

Then we fill the lower part of the pit with an earthen mixture, which consists of the upper layer of earth, rotted manure, compost and peat, it is also good to add 150-200 g of superphosphate or 300-400 g of bone meal or ash, and if your soil is acidic, then it is also a good idea to add 200-400 g of crushed slaked lime.

Mix the mixture thoroughly and fill it with water. We fill the upper part of the pit with good garden soil without adding any fertilizers, and we will plant the plant in it.

I recommend preparing the planting hole in advance, about a month before planting, so that the earth has time to settle.

If you could not do this and prepare the hole right before planting the peonies, then the soil must be tamped slightly so that after planting it does not settle and then the planted plant may end up at the wrong depth that is required, which will negatively affect the growth of the plant ...

Preparation of planting material

The best plots for planting are those that have 3-5 buds of renewal and the same number of roots.

For better rooting of the plant, it is recommended to shorten the roots to 10 cm.

You may be wondering why should there be the same number of buds and roots?

The thing is that if there are a lot of buds in the plot, but few roots, then in the spring the stems that have grown from these buds will not have enough nutrition. After all, until new roots are formed, the young plant receives nutrients from the old roots.

If it turns out the other way around - there are few buds and a lot of roots, then the plant in the first year (and the next) may not develop new buds, but be content with the existing ones, which will undoubtedly affect the flowering of the bush.

So I advise you to pay attention to the fact that on the parcels that you are going to plant, the number of renewal buds and roots is the same.

Before planting, we will carefully examine the planting material and very carefully cut off all rotten and damaged tissue to healthy parts.

Then, for disinfection, it is worth holding the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate (7-10 g per 10 l of water) or copper sulfate (100 g per 10 l of water) and sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal.

You can also improve rooting using this procedure: we dip the roots in a clay mash, then lightly dry and plant.

We make a chatterbox in this way: in 10 liters of water we dissolve 60 g of copper sulfate, 2 tablets of heteroauxin and 5 kg of clay, and you can also add 500 g of wood ash.

Another plus of this processing is that the planting material can be stored much longer, and it can also be sent by mail.

We plant correctly

Well, we have prepared the planting hole, the planting material too, so it's time to start planting.

This is a very important stage in the cultivation of peonies, because the further development of our young plant, its life span and, of course, the splendor of flowering depend on how correctly we plant it.

We plant a peony in the upper part of the planting pit we have prepared, which is filled with garden soil.

Particular attention should be paid to the planting depth: renewal buds should be at a depth of no more than 3-5 cm on loamy soils, and on light sandy loamy soils - 5-7 cm.

And such a deepening of the buds must be maintained throughout the life of the bushes, and then our peonies will delight us for a long time with their abundant flowering.

And if the planting is shallow, then in spring they can suffer from late frosts, in summer - from overheating, and in winters with little snow - from frosts. And, as a result, some of the buds may die, then we will no longer get good flowering.

If we plant peonies too deep, for example, the uppermost bud will be at a depth of 15-20 cm, then we will never wait for the bushes to bloom, although they will look completely healthy in appearance.

Having installed the planting material at the depth we need, we fill it with fertile soil, but do not tamp it so as not to accidentally damage the buds and roots, but gently squeeze it with our hands, eliminating the voids.

Then we water it abundantly, add more earth, if necessary, and mulch the planting.

Peony bushes grow rather quickly, so they must be planted at a distance of at least 90-100 cm from each other.

This will further facilitate the processing of the bushes, provide good air circulation between them, which can prevent the appearance and spread of fungal diseases.

Basic peony care

The main care of peonies is to remove weeds, watering, loosening, fertilizing and protecting against diseases.

Loosening... It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes carefully: directly by the bush to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm, and at a distance of 20-25 cm from it, you can loosen already deeper - by 10-15 cm.

If we loosen regularly, then a well-aerated mulch layer will soon form, which will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil.

In this regard, it will be possible to reduce the frequency of watering in dry weather. Loosening also helps in successful weed control.

And I also want to remind you that it is necessary to prevent the formation of a crust, for this it is necessary to loosen the soil after each rain and abundant watering.

Watering... After planting, peonies really need regular watering (especially if the autumn is dry), since watering speeds up rooting.

In the future, they can be watered not often, but abundantly, pouring 3-4 buckets under an adult plant, about once every 8-10 days.

Peonies are in great need of watering in spring and early summer, because during this period there is a rapid growth of bushes and the formation of flowers, as well as in mid-July - August, when the buds of renewal are laid.

Watering is best done in grooves, which are made at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush.

If the bushes are already old, strongly overgrown, then the distance to the groove must be increased so that water can flow into the zone of young active roots.

Although watering the plants in the grooves is allowed at any time of the day, it is still better in the evening, since at this time most of the water is absorbed into the soil, and does not evaporate.

On very hot days, you can additionally carry out surface watering of the soil under the bushes from watering cans, trying not to get on the leaves (in order to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases), and especially on the flowers, in order to prevent them from lodging.

Feeding... If we properly prepared the soil when planting peonies and filled the planting pits with nutrients enough, then the first two years young bushes develop well without root dressing.

In the future, the peonies already require regular root feeding.

First feeding it is advisable to spend more on melted snow or immediately after it has melted. At this time, the plant most of all needs nitrogen-potassium fertilizers: 10-15 g of nitrogen and 10-20 g of potassium per bush.

You can also make a solution of mineral fertilizers (dissolve 50-70 g of the flower mixture in 1 bucket of water) and add one bucket under the bush.

Do not forget that it is necessary to fertilize the plants only after rain or abundant watering.

In dry soil, fertilizers (either in liquid or dry form) are categorically not recommended to be applied, since the plant may die.

Second time it is worth feeding the peonies during the budding period and we will need: 10-15 g of nitrogen, 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium per bush.

Third time We will feed the plants two weeks after flowering during the budding period.

Here we need a mixture in the following composition: 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium.

Pay close attention to the rate of fertilization, as their excessive amount (especially nitrogen) can lead to the fact that only the leaves will grow well, and the formation of buds will decrease.

It also reduces the resistance of plants to diseases.

And it is also very good to feed peonies with a solution of mullein or bird droppings with mineral fertilizers added to it.

You can prepare such a nutrient solution as follows: 1 bucket of fresh cow dung is diluted in a barrel in 5-6 buckets of water (bird droppings in 25 buckets) and, placing it in a sunny place, is left for 10-15 days for fermentation.

After fermentation, add 0.5 kg of wood ash, 200-300 g of superphosphate to the barrel and mix well.

Before feeding, this nutrient solution must be diluted 2 times with water, and the solution with bird droppings - 3 times.

Helping to bloom

In the first year after planting (and better in the second), you should not allow the peony to bloom, as it will weaken the plant and prevent the root system from fully developing.

Therefore, the buds formed at this time should be removed so that all nutrients are directed to the general development of the plant, and not to flowering.

So prepare mentally for the fact that you will see the first flowers on a newly planted peony only in the third year, and real full flowering with the size and color of flowers characteristic of the variety will be only in the fifth year.

If you want large top flowers, then the side buds must be removed when they reach the size of a pea.

If you prefer the abundance of flowers on the bush and its long flowering, then you should not remove the side buds.

Faded peonies should be immediately removed from the stem, cutting them to the first well-developed leaf and leaving a very small stump.

Otherwise, falling petals, falling on the leaves, can provoke a disease with gray rot, especially in rainy weather.

During the flowering period, bushes of peonies with large, heavy flowers need support, since, even with powerful stems, they inevitably begin to lean to the ground.

And with strong winds and precipitation, flowers, bending almost to the ground, become polluted and lose their decorative effect.

Supports are best placed before flowering.

Preparing for winter

For the winter, we cut off the entire aboveground part of the plant to ground level. But we do this only after the first severe frosts, when the stems of the peonies will fall.

Up to this point, there is still an outflow of nutrients from the leaves and stems to the storage roots.

Therefore, early pruning will cause great harm to the plant.

Some growers explain the early cutting of the stems by the fact that the leaves have dried up, but the leaves dry up only in diseased plants, and if it is healthy, the leaves remain fresh and beautiful until the very frosts.

After we cut off the aerial part, it is worth paying attention to whether the buds at the base of the shoots are bare.

If this happens, then you need to huddle the bushes by 7-10 cm.

Usually, peonies are not covered for the winter. The exception is newly planted plants, it is recommended to cover them with peat or humus with a layer of 10-15 cm. In early spring, before the emergence of shoots, we remove this covering layer.

Major mistakes

Sometimes peonies do not bloom well, and sometimes they do not even bloom at all, although it would seem that the bushes look healthy.

What mistakes did we make when growing peonies?

And they can be as follows:

1.The place for planting was not chosen correctly - too shady, close to buildings, trees and shrubs, not sufficiently wet or, conversely, too wet (there is no drainage).

2. Planting the plant is too deep or too shallow.

3. The peony was planted recently and the planting material was divided very finely.

4. The peony bush is already old and requires transplantation and division.

5. The buds were damaged by late spring frosts.

6. Increased acidity of the soil.

7. Excessive amount of nitrogen fertilizers.

8. Lack of nutrition and moisture during the period when the formation of renewal buds.

9. Leaves were cut very early in the fall (before they lodged).

As you can see, dear readers, it is not so difficult to care for peonies: water on time, weed weeds, loosen the soil and feed.

And they, in turn, will give us a lot of pleasure during their flowering period, and not only us, but all those who pass by our gardens, will also admire this fantastic beauty.

See you soon, dear readers!

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The successful cultivation of peonies in a greenhouse is due to their unpretentiousness. Compliance with the peculiarities of the agricultural technology of peonies in greenhouses ensures their abundant and lush flowering. In our article - information on how to grow peonies in a greenhouse all year round and fight diseases and pests.To help novice growers - detailed photos and videos.

Varieties and types of peonies

All existing varieties of peonies are classified by flowering time:

• super early;
• early;
• medium early;
• medium;
• medium late;
• late;
• extra late.

Herbaceous and tree-like varieties of peonies are grown in greenhouses.

For cultivation in greenhouses, herbaceous and tree-like varieties of peonies are used. The following varieties are most popular:

1. "Duchess de Nemours" with profusely blooming, white large buds. The flowers have a sweet delicate scent reminiscent of lily of the valley. The height of the bush is up to 1 m.
2. "Avalanche" or "Albatre", forms large, double flowers of a white-pink hue, which, after full blooming, turn white. The height of the bush is 110 cm.
3. "Rubra captivity" is a 60 cm high bush with large cherry-red double buds and a delicate aroma.
4. "Alba captivity" blooms profusely with large white-cream buds, the height of the bush is up to 70 cm.
5. "Bouquet Perfect" is a sprawling shrub up to 90 cm high with lilac-pink buds reaching 17 cm in diameter and a strong aroma.
6. "Institute Doriat" - a bush up to 80 cm high, flowers - large crimson hue, have a strong aroma.
7. "Red Charm" blooms with dark ruby ​​flowers, reaching a diameter of 25 cm, the height of the bush is 100 cm.

Thanks to a huge assortment of varieties of different sizes, shapes, colors and flowering times, every grower can easily choose his peony for growing in a greenhouse.

Peony seeds

Planting and breeding

There are several ways to breed peonies in a greenhouse:

1. Seeds. Before sowing, peony seeds are recommended to be stratified for 2 months, alternating between warm - with temperatures up to 30 ° C and cold - with a temperature of 15 ° C periods. Then the seeds are soaked for 2 days in water with the addition of any growth stimulant and sown in fertile soil or peat tablets. Peony seeds germinate very slowly, the first shoots may appear a month after planting.

Attention! Seed-grown peonies only bloom for 5 years. Therefore, peonies, most often, are propagated in a vegetative way.

2. By dividing the bush. For this method of reproduction of peonies, it is necessary to cut the stems of the bushes to a height of about 10 cm. Then dig the bush and pull it out of the ground so as not to damage the buds that are located at the base of the stems. Carefully divide the bush into parts with 5 buds and 5 roots each, cut the cuts with crushed coal. After that, plant the delenki in a well-drained nutrient soil to a depth of about 6 cm.

Some varieties of peonies are propagated by dividing the bush

Attention! Adult peony bushes should never be transplanted without first dividing, since the plant may die without taking root in a new place.

3. Cuttings. This method is used to propagate tree varieties of peonies. To obtain cuttings, young shoots with a bud are cut at the end of June. The leaves on the stems are cut into ½ part, and the cuttings are planted in a peat-sand mixture, deepening by 2 cm. Within 2 months, with regular watering and spraying, a root system is formed in the cuttings.

4. Layers. The process lasts 2 years. To do this, the peony shoots are cut on one side, then the cut is treated with a stimulant, bending to the ground, the shoot is pinned with an incision and sprinkled with soil up to 10 cm in height. After 3 months, roots will grow on the cut, they will develop into an independent root system only after 4-5 months, after which the layers can be separated and transplanted to a new place. The second option is reproduction by air layers. To do this, make an incision on the stem, wrap it with wet moss, and wrap it with a film on top. After 3 months, roots will appear on the cut.

Advice! When arranging pionarias in greenhouse conditions, it is recommended to update the bushes with new ones approximately every 7 years.

Peony care

Peonies prefer well-drained loam, fertilized with ash and humus, for which rotted manure - 8 kg and wood ash - 600 g per 1 m² should be added to the soil.

The advantage of using loam for growing peonies is its ability to retain nutrients well, allowing air and water to flow freely.

During the period of active growth of buds, peonies require careful watering.

The main care of peonies consists in weeding regularly, loosening the soil, watering, and providing sufficient lighting. Weeding of peonies should be carried out to a depth of 7 cm and no closer than 20 cm from the bush.

Watering peonies in a greenhouse should be moderate, they require more frequent watering only during the period of active growth and bud formation.

In late autumn and winter, peonies should be provided with additional lighting with LED or fluorescent lamps. Flowers require 10 hours of daylight for normal development.

The optimal temperature regime is 20-22 ° C.

During the flowering period, it is recommended to leave only large and strong buds in peonies, and remove small side buds manually.

Advice! Timely cutting of faded buds helps to improve the quality of flowers.

Feeding

Peonies, like all perennials, require 3 times a day feeding during the year:

• nitrogen-potassium fertilizers during growth, for this, 10 g of potassium and nitrogen are applied under each bush;
• nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period. For this, 10 g of nitrogen, 12 g of potassium, 15 g of phosphorus are introduced under each bush;
• potassium-phosphorus fertilizing after 2 weeks after the end of flowering. To do this, 12 g of potassium and 20 g of phosphorus are added for each taste.

Peonies require regular feeding

Attention! Chicken droppings and wood ash can be used as food for peonies. The nutrient solution is prepared in the ratio: 1 part manure to 15 parts water. For every 10 liters of the resulting solution, add 200 g of wood ash. The finished fertilizer is applied under each bush in a volume of 0.5 liters.

For feeding peonies, you can use mineral fertilizers with a prolonging effect: "Kemira-Universal" as the first feeding and "Kemira-Kombi" for the second feeding. They are embedded in the ground, making them into the grooves dug around the peony bushes. The amount of fertilizer applied for each bush is a matchbox.

Diseases and pests that peonies are susceptible to

Peonies are quite resistant to fungal diseases and pests. But they can suffer from:

• gray rot;
• brown spot;
• powdery mildew.

The cause of the appearance of fungal diseases is a violation of the cultivation technology:

• dense plantings;
• abundant watering;
• low temperature conditions;
• a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers.

Peonies are quite resistant to various kinds of diseases, but they require compliance with growing technology

To combat gray rot, spraying with garlic tincture or a solution of copper sulfate with potassium permanganate is used, both in the bushes and in the soil around.

A 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid will help get rid of brown spot.

A solution of copper and soap will help get rid of powdery mildew.

The main reason for the lack of flowering in peonies in greenhouse conditions is a violation of the cultivation of these plants:

• thickening of landings;
• lack of light;
• insufficient soil drainage;
• high acidity of the soil;
• improper division of bushes.

Attention! 4 peony bushes per 1 m² is the optimal amount for growing in a greenhouse.

Identification and elimination of these shortcomings will ensure abundant and timely flowering of peonies in greenhouses.

A sufficient amount of time devoted to the peonies, as well as adherence to the cultivation technology, provides the peony bushes with optimal care, thereby guaranteeing their successful flowering.The conditions created in the greenhouse allow growing peonies all year round, as well as forcing peonies and growing young seedlings.

Reproduction of peonies - video

Growing peonies - photo

Not all summer residents know how to properly divide and plant peonies, to properly care for them. But without this knowledge, in a few years it will be impossible to enjoy the lush flowering of these amazing plants.

Wild peonies feel great in one place for more than 50 years and do not require special care. At the same time, hybrid varieties that summer residents grow in flower beds need regular transplantation - at least once every 10 years. Peonies are also divided and planted, but only plants aged 4-5 years are suitable for this. However, for rejuvenation, healing and reproduction of the bush, the transplant should be carried out more often and at the same time get acquainted with all the intricacies of this process. And in this we will help you now.

To date, more than 4.5 thousand varieties of herbaceous peonies are known

When can peonies be divided and transplanted

The best time for dividing and transplanting peonies so that they bloom better is the "velvet season" in late August - early September. At this time, it is still quite warm and it does not rain, and the plant manages to take root and adapt to the new soil composition during the winter. However, the timing of the division may shift depending on the climatic conditions and the specific region. For example, for St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region, the deadline for transplant is September 10-15, for the southern regions - September 20-30. Peonies planted during these periods can more easily transfer the "move" to a new place of residence and by the next summer will present you with an abundance of flowers.

Peonies should be transplanted only after flowering plants.

Sometimes you can find tips for transplanting peonies in the spring. This is an extreme measure, relevant only when the plant is threatened by something more serious than transplanting to a new place (for example, an attack by rodents or pests). It is not recommended to plant peonies in the spring, since they begin to hurt more often and flowers are almost not tied to them.

This is what transplanted peonies look like in spring.

Pruning peonies after flowering

The "transitional" moment in the life of peonies is the flowering process. They usually fade in late May - early June, and growers do not always make the right decision regarding the further care of the plant. So what to do after the peonies have bloomed? On this score, there are two completely opposite opinions:

• it is absolutely impossible to cut peonies after flowering, because it is at this time that flower buds are formed, which turn into luxurious flowers for next year;
• it is necessary to cut peonies after flowering almost immediately in order to prevent the development of diseases and the penetration of pests, as well as to rejuvenate and preserve the aesthetic beauty of the bush.

In our opinion, it is more preferable to refuse to trim the peduncles immediately after flowering. It is best to do this just before removing the bush from the ground. Firstly, you immediately stimulate the growth of the plant, cutting off all the stems almost to the base and leaving only small shoots 5-7 cm long. Secondly, you make your work easier by performing all the necessary operations in one step - both pruning and transplanting. In addition, it is easier and more convenient to extract a clod of earth with a root system and several shoots than a huge and spreading bush.

Do not forget to take the leaves and stems outside the garden and burn them - harmful bacteria and fungi like to settle in plant residues.

Digging and rinsing peonies

Difficulties with digging up peonies are associated with the peculiarities of their root system. Usually for 4-5 years, it grows to a great depth, individual rhizomes reach a length of 30 cm or more. The tips of the roots are often thin and go even deeper into the soil. It is very difficult to dig them out without damage, so several recommendations should be taken into account:

one.Peonies should be dug in dry and warm weather, so that the lump of earth that you will take out with the roots is not too heavy;

2. Place the shovel 30-40 cm from the center of the bush and place it vertically. If you put it obliquely, then most likely you will chop off the tips of the roots;

3. Dig in the bush on all sides and carefully lift it out of the ground. You can place shovels or garden forks under the chute, such as a brick. Thus, the shovel will act as a lever. Do not use too much force, otherwise the instrument may break. It is better to dig in the bush more thoroughly again;

4. In no case pull the peony by the leaves (especially if the bush is more than 5-6 years old). Do not forget that before digging out, the stems must be cut off, leaving hemp 5-10 cm high. It is for them, smoothly and effortlessly, that the plant should be pulled;

Even if you did everything correctly, some of the roots will be damaged anyway. Clean the rhizome from any clods of soil and rinse thoroughly under running water, since a clean base is easier to mark and divide. It is also necessary in order to assess the condition of the kidneys and roots. After all, if in recent years the plant has stopped blooming, it is likely that it has already begun to rot.

Division of a peony

Division is an important part of the "life" of a peony. This is a kind of rejuvenating procedure that allows you to rid the plant of dry and dead residues, foci of rot and rodent damage, as well as to stimulate further flowering.

To divide the roots, you will need a garden or sturdy kitchen knife, pruning shears, and sometimes even a hatchet with a hammer.

Start dividing the peony about a day after the rhizome is removed from the ground. During this time, it should dry out slightly. Before dividing the peony, carefully examine the root system. Each stem has 1 to 3 buds. From them, the root system develops, which can be considered isolated, since it lags slightly behind the massive rhizome. It is such small cuttings with one bud that can be used in the first place, especially if you want to get a small flowering bush next year.

If you decide to divide a piece with 2-3 buds, this does not mean that the bush will automatically bloom more luxuriantly and profusely. On the contrary, in this case, the plant will spend more energy on the healing of tissues in the places of pruning, but the likelihood of root decay will increase significantly.

On some roots, traces of the "barbaric activity" of mice will immediately become noticeable. They literally gnaw out large pieces of sweet and juicy roots. Such damaged roots cannot be transferred to a new place and, moreover, they cannot be divided and transplanted.

In the future, the division process looks like this:

• first of all separate single buds with a small root system. Sometimes they literally lag behind the base themselves, and only need to be slightly trimmed. Make sure that a sufficient number of fine suction roots leave the bud, which will help the plant to survive the winter and provide it with nutrients in the spring;

• remove dead pieces and sprinkle with charcoal. Rub them so that a thick layer of charcoal forms. This will help prevent pests from entering;

• in the future, choose parts consisting of 2-3 growth buds. Try to carry out the division, keeping the bush in weight, since the roots of the base are rather fragile, and if you put the bush on them, you can damage the entire rhizome. Keep in mind that the roots of an adult peony are very juicy and dense, and they must be carefully cut and actively torn from each other with your hands, while trying not to damage;

• Remove old and dry stems, and rub all sections with charcoal. Cut out rotten and rodent-damaged parts. Remove old and entwined rhizomes. From one bush 4-6 years old, you can get 3-4 pieces of different sizes;

Planting a peony in open ground

Ideally, pits for peonies are prepared 3-4 months before the intended transplant.The diameter of the planting pit is selected depending on the size of the cut. But since it is impossible to predict the size of the cut in advance, one should start from the standard sizes of the pit. The average diameter of the pit is 40-50 cm, and the depth is 50-60 cm. Large-diameter planting pits are made in order to fill them with nutrient composition.

For fertilization, 20 kg of humus or peat are placed on the bottom of the pit. Also add about 300 g of bone meal or 200 g of superphosphate. Then all this is covered with fertile soil. For clay soils, a bucket of sand is added to the contents, for sandy soil - a bucket of clay.

After applying fertilizers to the planting hole, you need to let the soil settle so that the division does not go deep underground. If there is no time for shrinkage, you can compact the soil and spill it with water (if it has not rained for the last 7-10 days). The resulting hole should be so deep that the buds of the delenka are 5 cm below ground level. If you plant the peony higher, leaving the buds on the surface or at ground level, they will most likely freeze. If, on the contrary, they are deepened, the peony will not have enough strength to expel the buds to the surface.

When planting, lay the cut on its side so that the plant can form buds on its own.

When planting without compacting the nutrient mixture, plant the peony a little higher, considering that the soil will settle.

Then cover the hole with soil and spill soil to eliminate the "air voids". After the water has been absorbed, cover the planting area with dry compost.

Given that peonies form a powerful and branched root system, with a solid planting, each plant should be given enough free space. Therefore, the distance from the center of one bush to the center of another should be at least 60-80 cm. The planting site should be well lit and protected from the wind. Peonies should not be planted near the walls of houses and in the shade of trees.

You can learn about the features of spring planting of peonies from our master class.

The best neighbor plants of peonies

Creating a beautiful flower arrangement led by peonies will require you to plant some other plants that pair well with them. Most often, the following flowers act as neighbors of peonies:

• daffodils;
• tulips;
• hazel grouses;
• Pushkinia;
• phlox;
• lilies;
• delphiniums;
• geranium;
• cuff;
• heleniums;
• irises;
• clematis.

Classic mixborder with peonies

How to feed peonies in spring and summer

In spring, peonies actively begin to grow and absorb nutrients from the soil. First of all, the plant needs nitrogen as the basis of its vital activity. Nitrogen dressings are used from the end of April to the beginning of June, and in total, no more than three such dressings are made:

• first feeding carried out at the beginning of the growth of the bush. Most often, natural organic fertilizers are used - fresh mullein or bird droppings. In 10 liters of water, 1 liter of mullein or bird droppings is diluted. You can also add potassium - in the form of 1 cup of ash or 30 potassium salt. The solution is thoroughly mixed and allowed to brew for 3 days. Then the composition is mixed again and applied at the root at the rate of 0.5-1 l per plant;
• second feeding usually done during bud setting. Dissolve 15 g of nitrogen and potassium in 10 liters of water, as well as 15-20 g of phosphorus. Apply no more than 1 liter of the composition under the bush;
• third feeding occurs 1-2 weeks after flowering. At this time, under each bush, add 10-15 g of potassium and 15-20 g of phosphorus;

Do not spend more than 3 dressings in the spring - an excess of fertilizer at this time can destroy the plants

If during planting you applied all the recommended fertilizers, then in the first year do not feed the transplanted peonies with anything at all. Start fertilizing only from the second or third year.

Peony feeding in the autumn

In the fall, the roots of the peonies continue to grow. Therefore, in mid-September - early October, plants need additional feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Water the bushes liberally to get started.And then carefully scatter 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium around each of them.

From organic fertilizers, wood ash is sometimes added (0.5 cups per 1 sq. M). It is enough to pour it along the contour of the bush and cover it with a layer of mulch no more than 1 cm thick.

The best varieties of herbaceous peonies

The modern variety of peony varieties allows you to select flowers in size, shape and color and create flower beds of stunning beauty. Among peonies, there are several recognized leaders who have long enjoyed the well-deserved love of flower growers.

1. Ama-No-Sode (Ama No Sode) - This is one of the most beautiful varieties of the so-called "Japanese peonies". The flowers are very large, the petals are two-rowed, pink in color. The shrub blooms late, but its flowers spread a pleasant and light aroma.

2. Anastasiya (Anastasia) - one of the mid-early crown peonies, which are terry varieties. Bushes of medium height (up to 1 m), are distinguished by drought and frost resistance. Inflorescences of pale pink color, framing a crimson core with yellow stamens.

3. Barbara (Barbara) - unusual crown peony of average flowering period. The petals are bright pink, forming a beautiful edging around the modified stamens, which emit a pleasant, subtle aroma.

4. Coral ‘N Gold (Coral 'N Gold) - an early semi-double variety with an unusual coral shade of large petals and long yellow stamens. It sets off dark green bushes very favorably.

5. Etched salmon (Etched Salmon) - flowers of this variety are distinguished by pinkish-peach petals, which, over time, fade slightly and fill the air with an amazing scent of fresh lemon. The variety is winter-hardy, and the bushes are practically not affected by Botrytis (gray rot).

6. Raspberry Sundae (Raspberry Sunday) - in this spherical, or bomb-shaped, peony, the most interesting thing is the colors. The yellow-cream center is bordered by pale pink outer petals. The bush is compact and small, and the flowers emanate a stunning pink scent.

7. Red Charm (Red Charm) –another spherical variety of peony with a huge rounded inflorescence. The flowers reach 25 cm in diameter and at the same time do not fade in the sun, retaining a bright crimson color for a long time. In general, the bushes grow healthy and strong due to massive stems.

8. Varenka – a representative of rosaceous peonies, which, first of all, surprises with a delicate linden scent and sparkling pink petals on a large bud. The plant can withstand severe frosts and abnormal heat. The bushes are compact, no more than 80 cm in height.

Now you know everything about dividing and transplanting peonies. This is a rather powerful plant, which only gets stronger over the years, so do not delay its "moving" to a new place. But, most importantly, do not rush and do not apply excessive force to the plant. And then you can enjoy its bloom and beauty every spring.

Peony is a perennial flower. With its lush, multi-colored buds, it attracts buyers well. One bush can bloom for more than five years without transplanting, which does not require extra costs.
The most favorable time for growing peonies in an open area is summer. This flower loves warmth, a lot of light, and abundant moisture. But he is very afraid of drafts. You should not plant a peony in the shade, as the bush will develop poorly and bloom poorly. Special care is not required, it will be enough to water it, loosen the ground, and weed. But this is all seasonal earnings, but I want to make a profit all year round. Then you have to spend money on building a greenhouse.
For growing peonies in the cold season, heated greenhouses with artificial lighting are used. Before planting, it is necessary to fertilize the land with manure and ash, and then dig up and moisten.
The easiest and most effective way to propagate a peony is to divide the bush. To obtain forcing, the bushes will take about five years. To avoid damaging the fragile roots, it is best to use a garden pitchfork.Having dug out the bush, you need to let it lie for several hours in a cool place so that the roots become more flexible. Then you need to cut the stems at a height of 9 centimeters from the root. Further, using a knife, you need to divide the entire root system into several parts of 13 centimeters each so that a couple of buds remain on each part. After that, the roots are sprinkled with wood ash and stored in a dark place for a day, at an air temperature of about two degrees Celsius.
After a day, the roots can be transferred to the greenhouse and planted. Pits are usually dug up to 60 centimeters deep, the same width. A third of the pit is filled with compost, and the upper part is filled with ordinary soil. It is necessary to dig in the root so that the first bud is at a depth of 10 centimeters to ground level. The landing site must be well filled with water.
After successful rooting, the growth process will begin. During this period, it is necessary to feed with a solution of mullein or bird droppings. The temperature in the greenhouse is maintained within 18 degrees, and the air humidity should reach 90%. Also, do not forget about watering and weed control. As you grow, you need to gradually add the temperature until it reaches 22 degrees. With the help of lighting, it is necessary to bring daylight hours to 10 hours.
Your profit will depend on how the cultivation technology is performed correctly.

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