How to properly grow raspberries outdoors?

The delicate, sweet taste of raspberries will leave few people indifferent. And unless a deaf person has heard of its beneficial properties. Therefore, almost everyone who is lucky enough to become the owners of a private courtyard or a country house acquires raspberries.

But many people forget that growing raspberries, planting and caring for them have their own secrets. Therefore, some collect several buckets of fragrant berries from a small area, while others have a larger area, and the harvest is barely enough for 3-4 jars of jam.

Landing dates

The good thing about raspberries is that they can be planted from spring to autumn. But there are also optimal planting dates. They will differ in different regions, so it is important to focus not only on the recommended time frame, but also on the climatic features of your area.

It is believed that the best time to plant raspberries in the fall is from September 25 to October 15. For the time remaining before the cold weather, the planted bushes will have time to take root well and in spring they will grow together.

In spring, it is better to plant raspberries between April 15 and May 5 - by summer, the seedlings will have time to take root in a new place and will safely endure the summer heat. There are no special recommendations for the summer planting of raspberries, but it is not recommended to plant them with green cuttings or shoots after the Apple Savior - August 19.

However, the timing of planting needs to be creative. For example, for residents of the southern regions with their warm autumn and relatively mild winter, autumn planting is preferable. Spring planting in the southern regions is also possible. But there is a danger that young plantings will die in the hot summer sun - hot dry summers in this area are far from uncommon.

For residents of the northern regions, the opposite is true: the plants planted in autumn do not have time to develop well before the onset of frost and most often die, especially if the winter turns out to be little snow. But the stems planted in spring grow and develop safely in the summer sun, delighting the owners with a bountiful harvest. The residents of the central regions are most fortunate - they can plant raspberries in spring and autumn.

In determining the timing of planting, it is better to focus not on recommendations, but on the condition of the stems. In the spring, it is better to plant them before the leaves begin to develop, otherwise the transplanted plants will develop not only the root, but also the stem. They can even bear fruit in a new place, but they will enter the winter weakened.

An autumn planting should be planned so that at least 20-25 days remain before the winter cold, or better - a month. But a prerequisite for a successful autumn planting is that fully formed replacement buds should already be clearly visible on the roots.

Seat selection

Raspberry is a light-loving plant, and if there are no other options, then it is better to plant it in the sun than in the shade.But still, it is better that she does not stand in the sun all day, but for at least 2-3 hours hides in the shade of trees growing nearby.

Despite the fact that raspberries need moisture, its stagnation for plant roots is destructive. Therefore, areas in which water accumulates during snowmelt or heavy rains are not suitable for planting. You should not plant berries on the northern slope of the hill, open in winter to frost and cold winds.

When choosing a place, you need to take into account the fact that the berry will grow on it for at least 5-6 years. Therefore, it is impractical to lay a raspberry tree in the middle of the garden, unless you dig up the site manually. Those. you can plant it there, but the tractor driver, when he plows your site, will probably not thank you with a kind word for it.

The optimal place for raspberries would be a site on a hill or a small southern slope, protected from the north by buildings or low trees, on the southwest side of which there are also buildings or tall trees.

Preparing for landing

Why do raspberries bear poor fruit in many areas? Yes, because the owners did not even bother to find out the acidity of the soil on it, not to mention the more substantial preparation. They took out the planting material, brought it in, planted it - the seedlings began, and thank God.

Meanwhile, the future yield of the laid raspberry tree depends on the acidity of the soil. The acidity of 5.8-6.2 pH is considered optimal for the berry. It can be roughly determined using a litmus paper-indicator, comparing its changed color with the scale included in the set.

The area for the future raspberry tree must be dug up in advance, carefully removing the rhizomes of weeds, especially wheatgrass and nettles. If a spring planting is planned, then it is better to dig up the site in the fall, before frost. In the fall, the site is dug up a month and a half before planting.

Depending on the indicators, the acidity of the soil during its preparation can be adjusted to the required indicators by making the necessary additives. Lime is added to lower the acidity, and peat or pine needles to increase it.

Digging, the site is simultaneously enriched with useful substances and microelements. For this, compost or rotted manure is added to the soil at the rate of 1-1.5 buckets per square meter. Also, when digging, you can add mineral additives: 50 g of potassium sulfate and 70 g of superphosphates per square meter. If you do not do this when preparing the site, then you will have to add these trace elements when preparing the soil mixture.

When growing raspberries on peaty soils, sand is additionally embedded in them during preparation - 3-4 buckets per square meter. But it is better to abandon the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers into the soil when planting stems - instead of forming a powerful root system, they will drive the ground mass from their excess.

Raspberry spreads quickly enough over the site, but at the same time the bulk of its roots are buried shallowly into the soil. It is enough to dig iron or slate sheets at the edges of the future raspberry tree 30-35 cm deep into the ground - and the berry will remain within the boundaries of the area allotted to it.

Planting methods

There are two ways to plant raspberries:

• pit;
• trench.

The pit method involves planting with bushes. First, shallow pits 50 cm in diameter and 40-45 cm deep are prepared on the site. The dug holes are filled with prepared soil mixture. The distance between the pits should be 80-100 cm, and between adjacent rows - 1.5 m.

At the transplanted bush (we are talking about already stiff plants), the top is cut off, leaving 35-40 cm of the ground part for spring planting and 20-25 cm for autumn planting.

The roots are dipped in a prepared chatterbox (a mixture of clay and mullein diluted with water until a creamy state), and planted in a prepared hole, sprinkling them with earth and lightly tamping. After planting, the bushes are watered abundantly, pouring out 15-20 liters. to the hole, and when the soil absorbs water, mulch.

When planting, 3-5 stems are usually planted in one hole. When planting, pay special attention to the root collar of the stem - the place where the root passes into the stem, which is visually accompanied by a color change.

When planting, this place should be 2.5-3 cm above the soil surface. After planting, the loose soil mixture poured into the hole will inevitably shrink, pulling the plant down. If the root collar is low, then with such a movement it will be covered with earth, which can lead to decay and the early death of the transplanted plant.

When planting the stems by the trench method, not individual pits are dug, but continuous furrows 50-60 cm wide and 40-45 cm deep.The distance between adjacent furrows should be at least 1 m.

Trench planting scheme

These trenches are filled with a prepared soil mixture, and then everything is the same as when planting in holes: cutting, talking, planting, root collar, watering (2-3 buckets per running meter), mulching. But, unlike pits, raspberries do not sit in trenches with bushes, but each stem separately - at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other.

The trenching method is especially good if you plan to grow berries on a trellis. In this case, trenches need to be dug orienting them from north to south - with this orientation, the grown plants will be evenly illuminated and heated by the sun.

Raspberry care

To get high yields of raspberries, it is not enough to plant them correctly. The planting also needs to be properly looked after.

The main elements of care are:

• correct watering;
• regular loosening of the soil;
• timely feeding;
• protection against diseases and pests.

Neglecting at least one of these points will inevitably affect the yield of the raspberry tree.

Watering

The peculiarity of raspberries is that their powerful root system does not penetrate deep into the ground. Therefore, if the soil is not regularly watered, then in the summer, during the formation of the crop, the roots of the plants will end up in dry soil. But waterlogged soil is also destructive for plants: the roots rot and form insufficiently or do not form replacement buds at all - and the bush dies.

Therefore, the given scheme of watering raspberries cannot serve as a dogma. The frequency and intensity of watering must be adjusted depending on the weather. In the rainy months, watering may not be necessary, but in dry months with prolonged intense heat, their amount should be increased.

After abundant watering during planting, the next watering is carried out in 5-7 days. The signal for re-irrigation is dry land at a depth of 7-8 cm. Re-irrigation is not as abundant as when planting - 10 liters per running meter. If the weather is hot, then after 7-10 days the third watering is carried out.

In the future, watering becomes less frequent, but more abundant. At the end of May, watering is carried out with a water consumption rate of 1.5-2 buckets per running meter. In July - June, two waterings are carried out at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per running meter.

In the first decade of August, the last watering is carried out - also 2-3 buckets per meter, and if August turned out to be hot and dry, then in the third decade another additional watering is carried out - 1.5-2 buckets per running meter. If not only summer, but also autumn turned out to be dry, then on October 5-10, you can water the raspberries again - 1.5-2 buckets per running meter.

Loosening the soil

Loosening of the soil should be carried out after each watering, as well as after heavy rainfall. The main goal of this agrotechnical technique is to preserve the moisture contained in the soil for the longest possible period.

Along the way, regular loosening allows you to keep the raspberry plant clean, removing sprouted weeds. Where it is impossible to remove weeds by mechanical loosening, for example, in the immediate vicinity of the stem, the weeds must be carefully removed by hand.

Usually, loosening is carried out 20-30 hours after watering, when the top 3-4 cm of the soil is dry. But other situations are also possible. For example, you watered raspberries, the next day you loosened the soil, and soon there was a downpour.In this case, you should not rush to re-loosening, you need to give time for excess moisture to evaporate from the soil.

Top dressing

There are several unwritten rules for feeding raspberries:

1. Raspberries need nitrogenous compounds so that young shoots develop well and form a full-fledged crop. It is impossible to feed the plants with nitrogen fertilizers during fruiting, and even more so after it is over.
2. Nitrogen compounds have the ability to acidify the soil in raspberries. To neutralize this ability, immediately after their introduction, the soil around the bushes must be tied up with wood ash.
3. If chlorine is a part of potash fertilizers, then you should not use them for plant feeding. Excess chlorine in the soil causes the development of a dangerous raspberry disease - chlorosis.
4. Many gardeners claim that the annual mulching of the soil with compost or manure provides plants with the necessary organic substances, retains moisture in the soil and prevents weeds from germinating. Personally, I am not a supporter of this technique - the regular use of nitrogen-rich organic matter for mulch oxidizes the soil, therefore, at the same time as mulching, you have to take care of its deoxidation.

Raspberries are sensitive to nutrient deficiencies in the soil. Raspberries transplanted to a new place for 2-3 years can not be fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers - they have enough fertilizers applied during planting for this time. But nitrogen should be added to the soil every season, otherwise there will be no good harvest.

Usually, they provide raspberries with nitrogen in the spring, feeding them with diluted water in a ratio of 1:10 to a mullein.

In summer, for care, it is recommended to feed the plantings of raspberries with bone meal, which serves as both a fertilizer and a material for mulch.

After harvesting the raspberry plant will benefit from potassium-rich wood ash. Getting from it into young growing pagons, potassium lays the foundation for the future harvest.

In late July - early August, row spacings in the raspberry forest can be sown with siderates. In mid-October, they are mowed, crushed and embedded in the soil so that by the spring they rotted, enriching the soil with organic matter and minerals. For raspberries, the best sederates are clover, vetch, or white mustard.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Like every plant, raspberries get sick and are exposed to pests. Timely processing allows you to protect her planting against the vast majority of raspberry diseases and pests known today.

It is necessary to start preventive work in early spring, while the stems are still "sleeping". As soon as the snow melts and the soil dries up in the raspberry grove, you need to remove the foliage that has fallen in the fall from it and carry out sanitary pruning of the plants.

During pruning, you need to remove all damaged and highlighted plants from the general row. Then cut off the stems and stem tops affected by frost. Plants growing inside the bush should also be mercilessly removed. Cut branches and harvested leaves must be taken outside the raspberry tree and must be burned.

The remaining stems must be tied up. To do this, they either construct a trellis, or tie it to strong pegs with a height of 1.2-1.5 m driven in near each bush. During this operation, "extra" stems inevitably remain, which should also be cut and burned.

To prevent fungal and viral infections, raspberries are treated with Borodos mixture or nitrafen in early spring, before the plants begin to bloom. Moreover, you need to spray the entire area of ​​the raspberry tree, and not just the stems.

If later on developing plants signs of disease appear, it is necessary to re-process. But at the same time, take into account two points:

1. Processing must be done before flowering.
2. Before starting treatment, you need to determine the type of disease.

Depending on the cause of the lesion, a re-treatment agent is selected.For example, colloidal sulfur protects well against spider mites, Topaz fights powdery mildew, Fitoverm and Agravertin protect plantings from raspberry flies, etc.

In addition to the spring, it is imperative to carry out the autumn pruning of the raspberry tree. During such pruning, the fruited, and therefore already useless stems, as well as broken and diseased branches / in which harmful fungi, viruses and many insect pests can winter, are removed.

At first glance, growing raspberries seems easy. But, like any culture, raspberries require constant care and careful care from their owners. And for this she will thank her owners with an abundant harvest of tasty and aromatic berries.

Growing raspberries is considered easy by some. But many don't know to grow a rich and tasty berry harvest, you need to know some secrets planting and caring for this seemingly undemanding crop.

Growing raspberries in the country

Where to plant?

By choosing the right place for planting raspberry bushes, you will provide yourself with a stable harvest of tasty and aromatic berries.

Usually, gardeners allocate the most wasteful places for planting. It is not right. The yield is insignificant.

For the berry to be sweet, you need the sun... Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, you need to choose the places for it:

1. Solar.
2. Protected from the winds.
3. Wet, but not swampy (it is good if in this place a lot of snow accumulates in winter).
4. With a fertile soil layer.

Choose a sunny spot for planting raspberries

When is it better to plant - in autumn or spring?

Raspberry bushes can be planted in any warm season, but the best time for planting is still autumn.

In autumn, the best ratio of temperature and humidity. Bushes rooted in autumn, grow faster in spring and get sick less.

When planting in spring, the plant takes root for a long time. and the survival rate is less than in the autumn planting.

Preparing the soil for raspberry bushes must be done in advance. If the bushes are planted in the fall, then planting pits are prepared a month before disembarkation.

For spring planting, the pits are prepared in the fall. Seedlings not planted for some reason should be buried in the fall. In the spring, it is important to have time to plant the buried plants before the buds awaken.

Basic methods

Raspberries are planted on the site trench, pit or hole method... And the method according to the Sobolev method is also interesting. What is the difference?

Trench

Raspberry, planted in a trench, saves time on caring for her... Less watering, it is convenient to cover for the winter, the yield of berries increases.

Trench landing rules:

1. Choose a well-lit place.
2. For uniform illumination of the raspberry tree, direct the trenches from north to south.
3. The length of the trenches is arbitrary, but the depth is 60-70 cm and the width is 40-50 cm.
4. If there are more than one rows, then the distance between them is at least 1.5 m.
5. Heavy loamy soil needs to be lightened. At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of 10-15 cm of gravel or sand. Mix the soil with humus. Spread mineral fertilizers on top of it over 1 sq. M:
   • 200 grams of phosphoric;
   • 60-70 grams of potash;
   • 300-400 grams of wood ash.
   • you can use complex fertilizers: 200 grams of nitroammofosk or nitrophoska.
6. Mix everything thoroughly again. Top up with 10 cm of fertile soil. Leave 30-40 cm of free space to the top of the ditch.
7. Reinforce the edges with bumpers. They should not crumble. Suitable for strengthening: boards, roofing felt or polycarbonate.
8. Install T-shaped posts from the ends of the trench. Height 1 m.
9. Stretch 2 rows of wire. From the ground 30-40 cm and along the top of the posts.
10. Plant the seedlings in one line with a distance of 1 m between the plants.
11. Dig holes. Place the plant. Cover with soil. To make the plant stand firmly, compact the soil around the bole.
12. Water in two steps, in small portions, until the soil is completely saturated with moisture. After watering, it is recommended to mulch the soil around the raspberries.This will prevent it from drying out and save you the hassle of weeding and loosening. Peat, humus, pine needles or compost are suitable as mulch.
13. Seedlings should be tied to a wire as they grow. Start the garter from the lower tiers.

The trench method of growing raspberries is effective, but optional and suitable for a large raspberry tree.

The trench method of planting raspberries saves time caring for it

Dimple

If you have a small amount of raspberries, then it is more advisable to plant them in a dimple or by a bush method followed by fan-shaped crown formation. Pits should be prepared two weeks before planting.

Landing rules:

1. Dig holes 35-40 cm deep and wide.The distance between the holes is from 0.6 m to 1 m.
2. Fill with fertile soil:
   • 5-6 kg of humus;
   • 150 grams of double superphosphate;
   • 50 grams of potassium sulfate;
   • 200 grams of wood ash.
3. Pour the mixture on the bottom of the pit, and put 10 cm of plain soil on top.
4. Place a barrier around the perimeter of the raspberry tree. Boards, roofing felt, slate or polycarbonate are suitable.
5. Trim the roots of the Sanzhenians until they are healthy. Cut off shoots. Leave 35-40 cm.
6. Lower the plant, spread the roots and cover with soil. Seal around the bole.
7. During planting, the root collar should be 3-4 cm higher than the soil level. After the earth has settled, it will be at the soil level.
8. After the raspberries are planted, they should be watered. Watering should be done in 2-3 doses in small portions. Until the soil is saturated with moisture.
9. Mulch the soil around the trunk. For this, humus, peat, sawdust or chopped grass are suitable.

A small amount of raspberries is best planted in a dimpled way.

According to Sobolev

According to gardeners, growing only a few raspberry bushes in the country using the Sobolev method, it is possible to get up to 5 kg of berries from a bush.

So, what is the method:

1. Preparing the beds and planting sites. We choose a well-lit place and place the ridge from north to south or from east to west.
2. Knock the sides out of the boards or make them out of slate. It is important that the bed is 20 cm above the soil level.
3. The width of the bed is 1 m. The length is as much as the raspberry bushes. The distance between plants is not less than 1 m. Rarely planted bushes are better illuminated and blown out. It is convenient to look after them. Disease rates are decreasing. This increases the yield of raspberries.
4. Raspberries are planted on the ridge in early autumn.
5. Pits are dug 30 * 30 cm wide. One seedling is planted.
6. Make trellises.

Planting raspberries according to Sobolev guarantees a bountiful harvest

It is not recommended to plant more than one seedling in one hole.... Raspberries have been growing in one place for more than 15 years, so several bushes in one place will interfere with each other.

The yield of raspberries by this method is the same depends on correct pruning... In the spring, after the raspberries give young shoots, carry out the first pruning.

In late May or early June, cut at a distance of 80-100 cm from the ground. It is convenient to look after the bushes at this height. They do not lean to the ground under the weight of the crop.

In the second year, carry out a second pruning of the bushes... Lateral shoots should be cut 10 cm. With this pruning, the bush looks like a small tree.

Produces many flower stalks on which berries are tied. As a result, the yield on the bushes increases.

It is not recommended to leave the offspring grown under the bushes more than 4-5 pieces. The rest of the offspring are cut out, and with the rest they are pruned the same as with the main stem.

According to the Sobolev method it is better to transplant strong offspring to a new place, and cut out the rest of the shoots... Thus, the usual variety turns into a remontant one. The bush bears fruit until late autumn.

In addition to pruning, raspberries also need proper care, which consists of watering, feeding and mulching.

Having formed a bed according to the Sobolev method, the gardener does not need to dig up and loosen the soil. Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant, therefore there must be timely watering and it is not necessary to allow the land to dry out.

Sprinkle mulch on the ridge to retain moisture in the soil. If possible, then it is better to use fresh manure as mulch... Manure is used as fertilizer and protects the soil from drying out and weeds.

If there is no manure available, then we mulch the garden with affordable means. The mulch layer should be at least 10 cm.

Raspberries need feeding, mulching and watering

Despite the manure of the garden, possible lack of nutrients... It can be determined by the type of plant: the shoots become thin and weak, the color of the leaves changes - they curl, spots appear and the edges dry out.

In this case organic fertilizing should be done: Drizzle with mullein infusion or chicken droppings with wood ash.

How to make an infusion: Collect cow dung in a third of the container and fill it with water to the top. Insist 2 days.

For watering, it must be diluted in water 1:10. That is, take 1 liter of infusion on a bucket of water, add a glass of wood ash. Stir well and pour over the raspberries.

Before you cover your raspberries for the winter, you need to cut out the fruit bearing branches at the root. Young stems, of the current season, should be bent neatly to the soil and pinned down with forks.

Now cover the bent stems for the winter. Cover with baptized branches, and cover from above with a non-woven cloth, tarpaulin or any available material. In winter, the artificial shelter will be covered with snow, which will keep it from freezing.

How to grow raspberries from seeds

Many varieties of raspberries it is possible to grow from seeds... The process is time consuming, but interesting. What is needed for this?

1. Buy raspberry seeds from the store or pick overripe berries of your favorite variety.
2. Squeeze the berry through cheesecloth. The result is gruel. We dilute this gruel with water and wash the seeds. Empty seeds will float to the surface. They are not needed. Collect and dry the rest.

The seeds can be planted outdoors or potted seedlings at home.

In the open field

In early September, in a specially prepared garden bed, plant the seeds to a depth of 2 cm... Cover with humus and sand from above.

We leave the seeds for the winter. In the spring, the seeds will sprout. Further care as usual.

In flower pots

To grow raspberry seedlings in pots, seeds must be stratified... To do this, place the seeds in a wet napkin in the refrigerator for two weeks.

Then plant in pots or a special box. Prepare loose earth mix peat and soil in a ratio of 50 * 50.

Planting in pots in March: plant the seeds to a depth of 0.5 cm, water every 3 days. You should also fertilize every 10 days with urea.

After the seeds sprout, we grow seedlings before the onset of heat... Then transplant raspberry seedlings into open ground.

Raspberries can be grown from seeds outdoors and in pots

Now you know about how to grow raspberries in different wayshow to care for her, how to grow raspberries from seeds. This will help you grow a good and tasty raspberry harvest.

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Planting and caring for raspberries outdoors

When planting raspberries in the country, it is important to choose a good variety, choose the right place for planting and follow the rules for caring for the crop. Taking into account the characteristics of the plant and the factors necessary for good development, you can grow an excellent harvest.

Raspberry varieties and their differences

Every year, breeders develop new varieties that are more resistant to diseases, pests and weather conditions. They differ in terms of ripening, shape and color of berries, as well as their size.

Repaired raspberry variety Apricot

Raspberry varieties are divided into three categories according to their distinctive features:

• Traditional strains adapt and grow in almost any environment.They are not picky about the soil, they tolerate low temperatures, they quickly multiply by root shoots. The berries of these varieties are small, and the overall harvest is not rich. These include Meteor, Volnitsa, Kirzhach;
• Large-fruited - giving record yields from a bush of large (4-12 g, in some cases up to 20 g) berries. Taste qualities of berries of large-fruited varieties of raspberries are at their best. The shoots branch well, which increases the yield. The best large-fruited varieties: Ruby Giant, Izobilnaya, Patricia;
• Repaired - varieties that bear fruit before frost, giving two harvests per season. Remontant raspberries can bear fruit on one-year-old and two-year-old shoots, which makes it different from other species. Among the representatives of this species, the varieties Aprikosovaya, Atlant, Bryanskoe Divo can be distinguished.

Planting and caring for regular and remontant raspberries are similar. A feature of their cultivation is the way of pruning the bushes.

Choosing a place and preparing soil for a raspberry tree

The site for planting raspberries should be well-lit and protected from the wind. The most successful planting of seedlings along the fence or wall of the house on the south side. In this case, the bushes will receive enough light in the summer, the fences will protect the bushes from the wind, and in the winter, trap the snow.

Choosing the perfect place to grow raspberries

If the site is located on a slope, it is worth taking the middle part of it under the raspberries, since in the lowland the bushes can freeze out in winter, or you will have to deal with waterlogging of the soil in spring, during melt water.

Crop rotation rules for raspberries

• Precursors such as tomatoes, potatoes, and strawberries are undesirable for raspberries. It is also better to avoid the proximity of these crops with raspberries.
• The root secretions of raspberries help protect apple trees and pears from a fungal disease - scab, and an apple tree can save raspberries - from gray rot.
• You can avoid the growth of raspberries by limiting the planting to sorrel. Two to three rows of casing along the contour will increase the acidity of the soil, and the roots will not grow in that direction.
• Berry bushes with proper soil preparation can grow for 10-15 years in one place.

Soil preparation

Raspberries love fertile, light and well-drained soils. To grow it on sandy and peaty soils, it is necessary to annually apply humus and compost to stimulate the activity of microorganisms.

Heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing raspberries as the roots will rot. The acidity of the soil under the raspberry tree should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation for the raspberry tree

The soil for the raspberry tree is prepared in advance, digging deeply and applying organic and mineral fertilizers. With an autumn planting - not less than a month, with a spring planting - from autumn. From fertilizers, manure or humus is introduced, urea or ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt are added.

Planting raspberries in open ground

Possible spring planting in late March - early April for the Moscow region. It is carried out as early as possible, before the start of sap flow.

Advice

The best time to plant a raspberry tree in central Russia is autumn (late September - mid-October). Raspberries planted during this period will have time to take root by frost, which will help it to winter well in the future.

If it was possible to acquire the desired raspberry seedlings only in late autumn, they are buried in a temporary trench, and transplanted to a permanent place in early spring.

Planting raspberry seedlings in spring

Annual, well-ripened shoots are used as planting material. Reproduction is also possible by root layers, which are laid out in parts in trenches or holes.

Ways to book a raspberry tree

There are several ways to book a raspberry tree:

• Belt planting - planting of seedlings is carried out in trenches, observing the distance between the rows of 1.5-2 m, the distance in a row is 30-50 cm.Two-line planting in trenches with a distance between the lines of 30 cm is possible.Wire or twine is pulled along the entire length of the row, to which future bushes will be tied. This method is considered more successful for planting.
• Shrub - when seedlings are planted in separate holes, 40x50x50 cm in size.

Bush method of growing raspberries

• Stamp - you can read about this method in our other article.

Raspberry planting technology

When planting raspberries, it is worth following some rules so that the seedlings begin to bear fruit as early as possible:

• If fertilizers were not applied during the digging of the site, they are applied directly into the trenches or holes, mixing with the ground in order to exclude direct contact of the roots with them.
• Trenches and holes are plentifully spilled before planting with water, at least 2.5 liters each.
• Before planting, the roots of seedlings are dipped in a clay mash.
• Deepen the seedlings 2-3 cm below the root collar. After complete post-planting shrinkage of the earth, the neck will come out, and the bush will develop normally.
• The planted seedlings are covered with loose soil, which is lightly tamped, after which the seedlings are watered again.
• The planted raspberry tree is mulched with peat or humus. With the arrival of spring, mulch is embedded in the ground.

Growing and caring for a raspberry tree in the garden

Raspberry care consists in timely watering, weeding, feeding and pruning of bushes.

Watering and feeding raspberries in the open field

The greatest need for watering raspberries is in the spring at the beginning of the growing season, and in the summer - during the development and ripening of fruits. They are carried out 2 times a month abundantly (20-30 l / m²). Frequent, but meager watering will not be beneficial, since the main part of raspberry roots lies at a depth of 40-50 cm.The last watering is carried out in October - trenches or holes are poured for pre-winter moisture charging of the bushes.

After each watering, the soil in the raspberry bush is loosened to provide air access to the roots, and weeds are removed as necessary. Mulch made from straw, peat or humus can help reduce the frequency of weeding and save raspberries from unexpected drought.

Raspberries respond well to fertilization, especially in the first year of planting. It is better to use organic matter - solutions of mullein or bird droppings.

Fertilizer from mullein for raspberries

Planting is fed 2-3 times a season. In the future, summer dressing can be completely replaced by generous autumn "dressing" of the soil with minerals and organic fertilizers

Raspberry garter

In order for garden raspberries to grow and develop well, planting and care in the open field must include a garter to the supports. Its bushes are quite high and powerful, therefore, the support must be reliable. When bush planting, the fan-shaped method of garter is often used, when stakes are driven in between the bushes. Shoots from different bushes, from low to high, are tied to the stakes.

Garter raspberry to trellis

A raspberry tree planted in trenches requires a trellis garter. The trellis is pulled over the pillars installed along the edges of the row on both sides of the bushes. As the seedlings grow, the rows of trellis are gradually added.

Protection of raspberries from diseases and pests

Whatever variety your raspberries grow, planting care necessarily includes measures to combat diseases and pests.

The main parasites of raspberries:

• raspberry beetle;
• stem fly;
• spider mite.

Advice

As a prophylaxis against pests of raspberries, they use deep digging of the soil in the fall, destruction of plant residues, and covering the bushes in spring with agrofibre.

Processing raspberry ovaries from a raspberry beetle

Fungal diseases of raspberry:

• purple or brown spotting;
• brown trunk ulcers - anthracnose;
• white spot.

Against fungal diseases, prophylactic spraying of bushes in the spring with solutions of nitrophene and Bordeaux liquid is used.

• In case of viral diseases (root cancer, mosaic, curliness), the affected bushes will have to be uprooted and burned.

Seasonal outdoor pruning of raspberries

A good raspberry harvest cannot be achieved without regular and correct pruning of the bushes.This is due to the life cycle of the shoots. It takes two years, after which the shoots die off, interfere with young branches, become carriers of diseases and pests.

Pruning raspberries in spring

Spring pruning is needed to normalize shoots and stimulate their growth. They spend it as early as possible, when the snow melts. Frozen, broken and weak shoots are cut as close to the ground as possible, trying not to leave hemp. 12-16 strong shoots are left per running meter of raspberry, the tops of which are also shortened to the first strong bud.

Important!

All plant waste after pruning must be removed from the site and destroyed.

The next pruning is carried out in the summer, removing all fertile branches to the base. It is not worth delaying this procedure, since the fruit branches of this year have already completed their life cycle and only inhibit the growth of new shoots.

Pruning raspberries in summer to the ground

In autumn, shoots with signs of disease, broken by the wind or technology, are removed in the raspberry tree. You also need to cut out young shoots that did not have time to gain strength over the summer (stem diameter up to 10 mm). You cannot leave the leaves on the branches, they must be removed. When the raspberry is removed, the shoots are tied and bent to the ground. This will help them survive the winter without loss.

Bending raspberries to the ground for the winter

Advice

With autumn pruning, 30-35 shoots are left in the raspberry plant per running meter. This amount allows you to make a stock that will replenish frozen and broken shoots in the spring.

Raspberry overgrowth problem

The growth pattern of raspberries is aggressive. Growing up, it can occupy large areas, forming a distant growth. You need to get rid of it as quickly as possible for several reasons:

• Distant seedlings take a lot of strength and energy from the mother bush;
• Shoots of root suckers are able to clog a large area of ​​nearby areas in a short time.

Support fence to limit the growth of raspberries

Unplanned raspberry growth can be avoided by using underground barriers at the raspberry border. To do this, pieces of slate or boards are driven into the ground to a depth of 40-50 cm. They should rise 10-15 cm above the soil surface. If the shoots nevertheless make their way through the barrier, they are cut out at the root immediately.

Advice

All shoots that are more than 20 cm away from the mother bush must be cut out. You cannot pull the roots out of the ground, you can injure neighboring bushes.

Pruning remontant raspberries

Particular attention should be paid to pruning remontant raspberries. When growing it for harvesting one crop, in the fall all shoots are cut out, while the hemp does not need to be left. In the spring, young shoots will grow, which will yield a harvest at the end of the season.

For two harvests - pruning remontant is carried out in the same way as for regular raspberries. In this case, biennial shoots will give a summer harvest, and annual ones - in the fall.

Outcome

With the right approach to care, growing raspberries in the country does not cause any particular problems. Compliance with the timing of planting and pruning, fertilizing and ensuring timely watering is the key to a good harvest of large and sweet berries.

For the first experience of growing berry bushes, summer residents choose the most unpretentious of them. Planting raspberries will be an excellent practice for beginners in gardening and will delight experienced garden owners with its simplicity. It reproduces easily in many ways. Raspberries are grown even from seeds. But the advantages of a shrub are not limited to this.

Requirements for growing conditions

Raspberries grow well in an area open to the sun, responding to a lack of light with a decrease in yield. Some gardeners grow it in partial shade, but this is only suitable for the southern regions. The bush does not like drafts, so you need to reliably protect it from strong northerly winds. Most often, plantings of raspberries can be seen next to fences, as well as near the walls of residential or outbuildings.This arrangement has its advantages. It helps to save the limited space of the site. From spring to autumn, fences protect raspberry bushes from drafts, and in winter they hold snow near the plants and between them, preventing the plantings from freezing.

The composition of the soil is not the most important condition for the abundant fruiting of the crop. Light loams with certain characteristics are optimal for growing raspberries:

• neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• good moisture permeability;
• rich supply of nutrients.

The peculiarity of the root system of the shrub is that it is located almost at the soil surface - at a depth of 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant it on hills and slopes. On them, the plant will suffer from a lack of moisture. You should not place a raspberry tree in lowlands where water stagnates. The bushes of the culture do not like swampy soil. The close proximity of groundwater also adversely affects them. The minimum depth of their occurrence at the planting site of the shrub is 1.5 m.

Predecessors and site preparation

Answering the question of how to plant raspberries correctly, one cannot ignore its predecessors.

The shrub will be comfortable on the soil freed up after certain crops:

• legumes;
• Luke;
• parsley;
• garlic.

Advice

It is better to prepare a place for planting raspberries in advance, a year before sowing alkaloid lupine on the site. This will protect her bushes from the invasion of a dangerous pest - beetle. Lupine is poisonous to its larvae.

It is not recommended to plant raspberries in the country in areas where last season there were beds with such plants:

• potatoes;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• eggplant;
• strawberries.

The reason is simple: these crops are vulnerable to the same diseases.

The raspberry tree will bear fruit successfully in one place, without bringing much trouble, for 12 years, then it is better to transfer it to another site. If this is not done, the yield of the bushes will decrease due to the natural depletion of the soil. Pathogens will also accumulate in it. It will be possible to grow a culture in the same place only after some time (4-6 years).

Before planting raspberries, thoroughly prepare the site. The soil is dug up and enriched with organic and mineral compounds:

• compost (humus, manure);
• superphosphate;
• wood ash.

Landing dates

Garden raspberries easily adapt to new conditions, so you can place plants in the country from spring to autumn, acting according to certain rules.

1. In spring, the right time for the procedure comes early, as soon as the soil warms up and a relative warmth is established. Raspberry seedlings, on which the buds have not yet had time to form and swell, take root well.
2. In summer (from early June to mid-July), you can plant raspberry bushes on a permanent site that have undergone preliminary cultivation in a greenhouse or at home. They will quickly take root and begin to develop actively, fully strengthening by the onset of cold weather. When buying material for summer planting, you need to choose plants with a closed root system. The risk of their death when placed in the ground is minimal. Such bushes are less sick and start growing faster, because during the procedure their roots are not damaged.
3. In the autumn, strong, well-ripened raspberry vines are planted. They will painlessly endure the frosty winter. They are placed in the ground until leaf fall continues.

Many summer residents believe that an autumn planting is more comfortable for a plant. At this time, raspberry survival does not interfere with strong heat, and constant soil moisture creates the most favorable conditions for its root system. With the arrival of warmth, overwintered bushes show rapid growth.

If the planting of raspberries is carried out in the spring, the weather conditions greatly affect its result. Drought and heat will not benefit young plants. The culture is characterized by an early onset of sap flow.In many regions, by the time the seedlings are placed in the ground, leaves already appear on them. Even frequent and abundant moisturizing of the raspberry tree will not facilitate the process of their adaptation. Roots that have not yet taken root will not be able to provide the plant with water, while the leaves will evaporate it, drawing moisture from the shoots and weakening them. Pruning a bush will help here. Only buds that have not yet begun to grow are left on it.

Advice

When deciding for yourself when it is better to plant raspberries, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the variety chosen for breeding.

Layout scheme

There are 2 methods of planting a crop:

• trench (tape);
• hole.

It is easier to cultivate raspberries in a bush method in unprotected soil: it makes it easier to care for plants and soil. But with it, you need to be prepared for the rapid aging of the plantings. If you place the bushes on the site using the strip method, the raspberry tree will be updated on its own - with numerous root suckers. Also, with him, the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe garden is more rationally used.

With the trench method, the site for the future raspberry tree in the country is preliminarily marked with a stretched cord. Then the planting furrows are dug. Their depth should be 35-45 cm, and their width should be 40-50 cm. They are made parallel to each other. A considerable distance is left between the trenches - 1.8 m. Having placed raspberry seedlings in the furrow, it is filled with a fertile substrate based on soil and humus. They complete the procedure by compacting the soil well. Such a planting scheme for raspberries assumes the location of its bushes with an interval of 0.5-0.7 m.

You can make the trench wider - a meter. Then, along its perimeter, it is recommended to dig in a border of slate sheets, deepening them by 30 cm.It should rise 3-5 cm above the soil surface.This will facilitate the introduction of manure and mulching and protect the area from filling with root shoots of the plant, to which Japanese raspberries are especially prone ... Making wide row spacings attractive by preventing weed growth is easy. It is enough to sow seeds of lawn grass or green manure.

With the hole method of planting raspberries, holes are dug around the perimeter of the site. You can arrange them in rows or staggered. The width, depth and diameter of the planting hole are made the same - 30 cm. Fertilizers are poured downwards - compost or wood ash. The distance between the rows does not change (1.8-2 m), but the bushes are placed in them less often - with an interval of 1 m.

Landing features

All varieties of crops, including exotic Japanese raspberries, which are becoming more and more popular, prefer nutritious soil. In order for her bushes in the country to grow well for a long time and bear fruit abundantly, additives are added to the soil dug out of trenches or from holes:

• compost;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate.

Advice

It is not necessary to apply fertilizers containing nitrogen to the planting pits or trenches, otherwise the plants will root poorly.

A little substrate is poured into the wells so that a small mound forms. If plants with an open root system are used, their lower part is dipped in a mullein solution or in a mash made from a nutrient mixture. Putting a raspberry seedling on a mound, fertile soil is poured into the pit. It is impossible to deepen its root collar, otherwise the bud located near it can rot, and the development of the plant will greatly slow down. That's right, if between it and the surface of the soil remains 1-2 cm.After its shrinkage, it will be at the level of the soil.

If the land in the country house is too wet, and the site is prone to flooding or is characterized by a close occurrence of groundwater, the shrub is grown on raised and wide (0.7-1.0 m) beds. Do not fill the trench with earth to the top. It is better to leave a small hollow. So, when irrigating a raspberry tree, less water is consumed, and natural precipitation is used more rationally: snow accumulates in a trench from the very beginning of winter.

Watering the plant abundantly (10 liters of water for 3-4 raspberry bushes), the site is mulched. You can use for this:

• peat;
• humus;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• dry leaves.

Saplings with well-developed buds require pruning. They are shortened to 30 cm. Supports for raspberries are best installed at the time of planting. It is convenient to grow shrubs on a trellis. It's easy to make. Pillars, pipes or thick wooden beams are dug in along the edges of trenches with planted raspberries, pulling 2 rows of wire between them (at a height of 1 m and 1.5 m from the ground surface). When the bushes grow up, they are tied to a trellis.

Generative reproduction

It is not difficult to grow raspberries from seeds, although this method of breeding is rarely practiced. Its main drawback is not even a lot of labor, but the fact that the properties of the mother bush are not transferred to the seedlings. It is widely believed among summer residents that when planting raspberry seeds, it will take more than one year to wait for the harvest. But this is not the case. With proper pre-sowing seed preparation, the plant will bear its first fruits next year. They start it even in the process of collecting planting material.

From fully ripe (better - overripe) fruits, juice is removed by placing them in a bag of gauze and squeezing thoroughly. Then the pulp with seeds needs to be dried a little. To do this, use paper or cloth, spreading the berry mass on it. Then they put it in a well-ventilated place. The sun's rays should not fall on it. When the raspberry seeds are slightly dry, they are mixed with sand and sown in boxes. You can put them in a cold greenhouse. Before the emergence of shoots, 2 parameters are carefully monitored: protection of crops from sunlight and constant soil moisture.

Another method of preparing raspberry seeds is also practiced. Water is poured into a slightly mashed berry mass, stirring well. High-quality seeds are heavy, they will settle to the bottom, and immature lungs will immediately float to the surface. After draining the water, the procedure is repeated several times. After drying the washed seeds, they are placed in the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of +1 to + 5 ° C until planting, or sown in the beds. Friendly germination of raspberry seeds can be expected in moist and loose soil with an admixture of sand and peat. They are closed up shallowly - only 2-5 mm. When planting in spring, the beds are covered with foil.

Professionals recommend stratification of raspberry seeds. This is a simple but time-consuming process. After mixing the pre-soaked raspberry seeds with wet sand, they are wrapped in nylon cloth and placed in a container with moss. Then the container is placed in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) or in the basement, where the air temperature is + 2 ° C. It is necessary to regularly knead the contents of the packages so that the seeds and sand are mixed. Maintain high humidity, periodically sprinkling bags and moss.

After keeping the raspberry seeds in such conditions for 3-5 months, they are planted in the ground. They do this together with the sand. Sowing is carried out immediately after removing the contents of the bags, without drying it. Stratification significantly increases the germination of raspberry seeds.

Fundamentals of agricultural technology

Correct agricultural technology provides for a number of activities. But you should not be afraid of their abundance. Planting and caring for raspberries is easy and quick. The shrub loves watering. The lack of moisture negatively affects the taste of its berries and can even destroy the plants. But it is not worth pouring in the raspberry tree either. Moisturize plantings in the country not often (once a week), but abundantly.

Neighborhood weeds raspberry does not tolerate well. But constant weeding and loosening of the soil under the bushes can injure its roots, and the yield of the plant will decrease. Mulching will help in the struggle for the cleanliness of plantings. For it, use any organic matter (humus, dry leaves, sawdust, crushed bark), pouring it on the beds with raspberries in a thick (8-10 cm) layer. This mulch will significantly help the plant:

• protects against weeds;
• retain moisture in the soil;
• will fertilize it (after decomposition).

Raspberries will yield a good harvest if they are fed regularly.Its bushes can do without fertilization only in the first year after planting in organic-rich soil. Raspberry is fed three times per season. In early spring, fertilizers containing a lot of nitrogen are applied - ammonium nitrate, infusion of mullein or bird droppings. The second feeding is carried out when the shrub begins to bear fruit. Any complex composition or nitroammophoska is suitable for her. The third time the raspberry is fertilized in September. This top dressing will help the plants survive the winter painlessly and form flower buds. Potassium salt, superphosphate and wood ash are used for it.

Bush shaping and garter

In order to grow raspberries to consistently bring high yields, its bushes need regular pruning. With it, fruitful shoots are shortened and get rid of thickening stems and excess root growth. Of the numerous young branches in the spring, 5-6 of the strongest are left on the bush (according to the number of fruitful shoots, which they will replace in the future). The rest are removed at the base with a shovel or flat cutter.

When the shoots grow up and begin to ripen for the winter, another pruning is carried out. The raspberry branches are shortened by ¼, since their middle yields the greatest yield. Spring pruning of overwintered shoots on a plant is carried out to a strong bud (about 10 cm). Dried branches are removed completely. In the fall, the bush is relieved of two-year-old shoots that have already yielded a crop by cutting them out at the root.

Highly decorative Japanese and other varieties of raspberries are winter-hardy. But in severe frosts, plant shoots can still suffer. To prevent this from happening, in late autumn, raspberry bushes bend down, tilting them to each other and tying them. A layer of snow accumulated on them will protect the buds from freezing.

Long shoots of raspberries can break under the weight of the fruit. To avoid this, as well as to facilitate the care of the plantings, their garter to the trellis will help. It is carried out in early spring, until the buds on raspberries wake up. If they are already swollen, they can be easily damaged during the garter process. It is more convenient to grow raspberries on a double-leaf trellis. It looks like it is stretched in 2 rows of wires parallel to each other, but located in the same plane. Fruitful shoots of the shrub are attached on different sides, and young shoots develop in the center.

Raspberries are a bright representative of those rare cultures, which are almost impossible to ruin. Therefore, many summer residents begin their acquaintance with berry bushes with her. She is undemanding, hardy, high-yielding. The raspberry tree will not require much attention to itself, but you cannot leave it at all without leaving, otherwise the plantings will turn into impenetrable thorny thickets, and the crop grinds.

Certain varieties of culture are actively used in landscape design. Japanese raspberry bushes look spectacular from spring to summer, being covered first with flowers, and then with large ripening fruits. They are especially good in hedges. Nature has endowed raspberries with many beneficial properties. It is not surprising that you can find shrubs in almost every summer cottage.