How to properly grow watermelons in the middle lane?

Growing watermelons in the open field is possible even in the unstable climate of the middle zone. And we have seen this from our own experience. In order not to be unfounded, we will tell and show you how to grow delicious watermelons in the country.

Several years ago, my parents already tried to grow a thermophilic melons and gourds, but the first experience was not crowned with success: the fruits did not have time to ripen and turned out to be tasteless. Perhaps the main mistake was choosing the wrong variety. Now we took a more responsible attitude to this matter and took into account the advice of experienced gardeners.

Choosing a variety of watermelons

The fact is that not every variety of table watermelon is suitable for growing in our latitudes. First of all, you need to pay attention not to the yield indicators or the taste of the fruit pulp, but to the ripening period. For the middle lane, those varieties and hybrids are suitable for which the growing season is 70-80 days, that is, early and mid-early. It is also important that the variety is cold-resistant.

We chose a very early variety Ogonyok and a medium early variety - Foton. The fruits of these varieties have different skin colors, so during the harvest we had no doubts which of the varieties turned out to be better.

Table watermelon Spark
	From germination to the first harvest - 73-83 days. The length of the main whip is no more than 180 cm. Fruits are globular, dark green, weighing 2.5-3 kg. The bark is thin and fragile. The pulp is red-orange, tender, sweet, juicy.

Table watermelon Photon
	Medium early variety of Russian selection. The period from germination to harvesting the first crop is 85-90 days. Fruit weight - 4-6 kg. The plant is long-leaved. Fruits are oblong-rounded, green with dark green stripes. The bark is of medium thickness. The pulp is red, very tender, of excellent taste.

Sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings

The most suitable sowing time is April. In more southern regions it is better to do this in the middle of the month, and in northern regions - at the end.

In order for the seeds to sprout better, we first germinated them. To do this, they put it between two cotton pads moistened with water and placed it on the battery (or you can simply wrap it in a damp cloth and put it in a warm place). A few days later they hatched.

Then we took plastic cups with a volume of 0.5 liters, filled them with ready-made soil with an acidity of 6-6.5 pH, intended for seedling vegetables. The soil was moistened and one seed was planted in each container, deepening it by 1.5-2 cm. The seedlings need enough light for germination, so we put them on the windowsill located on the south side.

Seedlings of watermelons are grown without picking.

During the day, the air temperature in the room was maintained at 20-22 ° C, and at night - 17-18 ° C. All our radiators are equipped with thermostats, so it was not difficult to do this. The seedlings were watered 2 times a week. But if the air in the apartment is too dry, then the soil should be checked regularly and, if necessary, humidified more often.

The seedlings were not long in coming and sprouted together after 2-3 days.

Watermelons grow quickly. In early May, their stems have already begun to branch out and "crawl". It was high time to take them to the dacha.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Watermelons prefer light, sandy soil. Seedlings should be planted in the garden in the second half of May (25-30 days after the emergence of shoots), however, it is necessary to pay attention to the weather, because in the middle lane in May there are often night frosts, and the soil should have time to warm up to 12-15 ° WITH.

Watermelon lashes grow strongly. Therefore, we kept a distance of 70-80 cm between the plants, and about 2 m between the rows.

If the soil on the site is not very fertile, during planting of seedlings, it is recommended to add 17-20 g of potash, 15-17 g of nitrogen, 13-14 g of phosphorus and 5-6 g of magnesium fertilizers to each hole.

Since in our region it is still cold for watermelons in May, we installed metal arches along the beds and covered the plantings with spunbond. The nonwoven material was finally removed only at the end of June.

The watermelons were regularly weeded and watered as the soil dries. In general, they are picky and able to withstand drought. We came to the dacha only once a week, and the plants felt great.

When the long lashes grew, we covered their bases with soil to form additional roots. Thanks to this, plant nutrition improved, and strong gusts of wind could not break the stems. In addition, too long lashes that went beyond the garden and thickened the plantings, we pinched.

Harvesting watermelons

Watermelons are demanding for heat and light, so the ripening period of the fruits largely depends on the weather. We were harvesting in August-September.

The fruits were cut off the whips when their tails began to dry out. It is very important not to miss this moment, as overripe watermelons quickly start to rot.

The fruits varied in weight. On hot days, rather large watermelons ripened (weighing about 2 kg), but still most of the fruits did not reach 1 kg. Despite the fact that their flesh was light, the taste was excellent.

Watermelon varieties Ogonyok

However, not all varieties made us happy. The striped fruits of the Photon variety turned out to be small (they did not reach the 4-6 kg declared by the manufacturer). By external signs, they had time to ripen, but the taste of the pulp left much to be desired: it was quite juicy, but absolutely tasteless.

Foton watermelon

The largest fruit of the Photon variety that we have grown, weighed 3 kg 673 g.

But the own fruits of the Ogonyok variety turned out to be no worse than store-bought watermelons. Moreover, after collection, they were well stored on the balcony until mid-autumn.

Have you tried growing watermelons or melons outdoors under difficult climatic conditions? Share your experience in the comments.

Watermelon is a juicy sunny treat. Presenting its taste, we recall the warm days of the end of summer, melons and gourds and pulp that melts in the mouth. It is known that watermelons grow in the south, where the hot sun feeds them with its energy. Probably, if you have not tried, then you just wondered, is it possible to grow a watermelon in a climate where the summer is not so hot and long? The answer is yes! There are varieties that successfully mature in conditions that are not very suitable, in the classical sense. Therefore, the dream of your own melon can easily come true!

Is it possible to grow watermelons in central Russia

At first glance, it seems that the climatic conditions in central Russia are far from the best option for harvesting delicious watermelons. The favorable temperature for fruit ripening is 25–30 ° C.However, in the Central region, there is rarely a warm and long summer. In order for watermelons to grow in temperate climates, they need to create conditions. And also choose varieties for growing that have an early or medium ripening period and resistance to low temperatures. These are the main selection criteria, and yield, fruit size, transportability become secondary factors.

Did you know that watermelon belongs to the pumpkin family and is more similar in structure to a berry than a fruit or vegetable.

There are varieties of watermelons not only with classic red pulp, but also yellow and even white

Watermelon varieties for growing in temperate climates

Currently, there are 50 varieties of watermelons that are suitable for cultivation in the middle zone of our country. Consider the most proven varieties, their characteristics and distinctive qualities.

Table: popular varieties of watermelons for the middle strip

Photo gallery: early and cold-resistant varieties of watermelons

Growing seedlings

Since the warm period in the middle lane is shorter than the berry needs for ripening, this period can be compensated for by growing seedlings at home. The best time to plant seeds is considered to be late April or early May. Watermelon belongs to those plants that do not tolerate transplanting very well. Therefore, it is better to immediately choose spacious containers in order to avoid further diving. The optimal volume of a glass, pot or other container is 300 ml, the height is 10 cm. Drainage holes are made in the bottom.

Seeds for planting are pre-prepared, otherwise germination will have to wait a long time. First of all, it is kept in hot water (50–55 ° C) for 20 minutes or half an hour. And then germinate until a small sprout appears. For this procedure, use:

• wet sand heated to 25 ° C;
• soft, damp paper, such as toilet paper or filter paper;
• cotton pads moistened with water.

When the sprouts hatch, they are planted in 2 or 3 seeds in pre-prepared containers. The soil used is chosen as follows: sand (or sawdust), turf and peat are mixed in equal parts. The seeds are deepened into the ground by 2 cm.

The soil is sprinkled with sand, the containers are covered with film or glass on top. The place where the seedlings will germinate should be warm. The temperature is maintained at 25 ° C during the day and 18–20 ° C at night. If the air in the room is dry, the soil is periodically ventilated and moistened.

It takes a week for seedlings to appear. When the seedlings germinate, they remove the material with which the containers were closed, the temperature is lowered to 16-18 ° C.

Watermelon seedlings are not at all difficult to get at home.

If the weather is cloudy, the plants will lack light. Therefore, lighting is additionally done with the help of lamps.

Watermelon is a very light-loving plant! Its exposure to the sun should be at least 12 hours daily.

While the seedlings are growing, they are regularly watered with warm water without excessive drying out or waterlogging of the earthen mixture. Do not allow moisture to enter the leaves. This leads to decay of plants. One and a half weeks after the appearance of the first shoots, the seedlings are fed with complex fertilizer.

You can transplant young plants into the greenhouse when they have three true leaves, in open ground - after the formation of the fourth. It will be beneficial to accustom watermelons to fresh air 10 days before transplanting, taking them to an open space, for example, a balcony. The time spent there begins at two hours and gradually increases.

Video: how to grow healthy watermelon seedlings

Landing in open ground

For watermelons, light sandy or sandy loam soil is suitable. The plot is prepared in the fall: they dig up the soil and add rotted (not fresh!) Manure at the rate of 5 kg per 1 square meter, superphosphate fertilizer (40 g), ammonium sulfate (25–35 g) and potassium salt (20–25 g).Potassium and phosphorus will help the fruit store more sugars and grow sweet and tasty.

Since watermelons love warmth, the area set aside for cultivation should be sheltered from the wind, warm up well and be well lit. The best place will be the southern, as well as the southeastern part of the garden, dacha. The air temperature at the time of planting should be at least 15 ° C, and the soil should be warmed to a depth of at least 10 cm (this can be measured with a special thermometer). A complex of fertilizers is applied to the soil (per 5 liters of soil):

• double superphosphate (100 g),
• dolomite flour (50-60 g),
• potassium sulfate (55 g),
• ammonium nitrate (55 g).

On the beds, holes are made in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from each other. The distance between the rows should be at least two meters, since the lashes of the watermelon grow strongly. Seedlings are planted in holes up to the level of cotyledon leaves together with a lump of earth, sprinkled with sand 10 cm in a circle and watered with warm water. When transplanting, be careful not to damage the root of the young watermelon.

When planting, be careful not to damage the root system of a young watermelon, otherwise the plant will not take root well and will not yield a harvest

Arcs are constructed along the perimeter of the beds and the covering material is fixed on them. Until the seedlings are at full strength, the shoots protect against a possible drop in temperature or excessive solar activity.

Growing watermelons outdoors has both advantages and disadvantages. This method provides the plants with the necessary free space for growth and the maximum possible amount of sunlight. And also promotes high-quality pollination, because insects fly up to flowers without hindrance. However, if the weather is not too favorable, then the excessive amount of moisture negatively affects the growth of watermelons, and from sudden changes in temperature, plants fall ill with powdery mildew.

Video: how to plant watermelon seedlings in open ground

Greenhouse cultivation of watermelons in the middle lane

If you are not completely sure that the summer weather will be favorable, then it is possible that the watermelons are grown in greenhouse conditions. The same points are observed as when planting in open ground - the requirements for the composition and temperature of the soil. Only the amount of mineral fertilizer changes, since in a limited space, precise application is required - for 1 square meter you will need 3 tablespoons of nitrophosphate and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. Also, vertical trellises are installed in advance, on which, as they grow, they tie up the lashes of watermelons.

A greenhouse will be a way out if the climatic conditions of your region do not meet the conditions for growing watermelons in their natural environment.

It is important to remember that no more than three seedling bushes are placed on 1 square meter. Do not plant the plants closely. They will feel stuffy, and since the whips, increasing in size, give shade, the leaves and flowers will not receive the required amount of sunlight, they will grow more slowly and get sick. It is important to maintain a dry climate in the greenhouse; for this, airing is done if the humidity level exceeds 70%.

Bees are necessarily allowed into the greenhouse to carry out pollination, but it is better to do this procedure yourself, since the male flowers of watermelon live very little. The male flower is plucked, the petals are carefully removed and applied to the female flowers so that the anthers touch the stigmas.

Male (above) and female (below) watermelon flower: the female flower has a small fruit at the base

It is also good for one female flower to be pollinated by different male ones. Pollination is carried out in the morning, when the temperature did not have time to rise above 20 ° C.

Since watermelons have to grow vertically in a greenhouse, the lashes will not be able to withstand more than a couple of fruits. Therefore, take care of the timely thinning of the ovaries and tying up the berries.

In the greenhouse, no more than two fruits are grown on one whip, which must be tied up

Remember that planting watermelons in the same greenhouse with other plants is not possible, since the long roots of melons do not allow other crops to grow.

How to care for watermelons in temperate climates

Watermelon does not differ in care requirements, but of course, it is necessary to pay a minimum of attention to it.

Watering and weeds

The plant has a large root that goes deep into the ground. This provides the terrestrial part with moisture even during dry periods. Thus, watermelons do not require frequent water addition. Once a week is enough. In this case, water not only directly the holes, but also the area on which the plants are located. If the weather is dry, you can double the watering frequency. And in the future, gradually reduce when female flowers appear. It is believed that after the formation of the fruits, the supply of moisture should be stopped. However, if you suddenly stop regular watering, the watermelons will not be able to gain sugar, which will affect the taste. Therefore, moisture is stopped 4 days before harvesting.

Water your watermelons abundantly, do not overdo it - waterlogged soil can become a breeding ground for diseases.

One or two days after watering, you need to loosen the soil, while removing the grown weeds. This should be done carefully so as not to touch the roots of watermelons, which, as has been noted more than once, do not tolerate damage well. As it grows, loosening is stopped, because the weed no longer has any tangible harm to the plants.

When the lashes increase in size and lengthen, their bases are sprinkled to form additional roots, which improves nutrition. If the formed fruits lie on the ground, a dense material is placed under them, since the berry rots, in contact with the soil.

If the watermelon fruit comes into contact with the soil, boards, plastic, and a special film are placed under it to avoid possible rotting

Fertilization

The planted watermelons are fed twice a season.

1. The first time is two weeks after disembarkation, when the whips begin to form. To do this, use either ammonium nitrate (20 g per bucket of water), or mullein solution (in a ratio of 1 to 10), or a solution of bird droppings (in a ratio of 1 to 20).
2. The second feeding is carried out at the time of tying the buds. For one plant, 4 g of calcium chloride, 4 g of ammonium nitrate and 6 g of superphosphate fertilizer are applied.

Diseases: prevention, treatment

Watermelon, like any living organism, is susceptible to disease. Let's dwell on the most common of them.

Table: diseases of watermelons

Photo gallery: signs of watermelon diseases

Gardeners reviews

Watermelon is both a pleasant delicacy and a berry useful for the body, capable of satisfying both hunger and thirst, becoming a prophylactic agent in the fight against anemia and high cholesterol. It has diuretic and choleretic properties, anti-stress effect, enhances immunity. Fruit rinds are also used for food, from which unusual and tasty jam is prepared. And as practice shows, growing a watermelon on your own is not such a difficult thing. Even the climatic conditions of the middle zone, which differ from those in which the plant has been cultivated from time immemorial, are not an obstacle. If you have long wanted to try yourself in the role of a melon grower, but you did not dare in any way, then the time has come to do it!

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Melons have been grown in the middle lane relatively recently. How do summer residents cope with the task in a temperate climate? What methods do they use? In the article we will tell you about the cultivation of watermelons in the middle lane until fully ripe in the open field and in the greenhouse, we will determine when to plant and how to care.

Observing the rules of agricultural technology, the cultivation of juicy and sweet watermelons is possible, even in central Russia

List of early varieties of watermelon for the middle strip

It takes time for a watermelon to ripen. Sometimes 120 - 180 days is not enough for your climatic conditions: the summer is short, frosts until June, the sun is not as much as the culture requires.How to be? The answer is simple: use seeds of super early ripening varieties as planting material, follow the planting rules and avoid mistakes when caring for watermelon. Read also the article: → "Crimson Sweet" or "Raspberry Sugar" - early ripening watermelon ".

In order for watermelons to ripen, you need to purchase super early varieties. Look at the growing season. According to the number of days, choose from sixty to eighty. Based on the fact that summer lasts an average of 100 days, then these early varieties are ideal for planting in central Russia. If planting watermelons through seedlings, plan the sowing time. Remember, if you plant seedlings in the ground at the end of May, then it is better to sow at the end of April. Choose varieties proven by gardeners.

Tip # 1. Try to buy small-sized watermelons that are resistant to frost and major diseases: powdery mildew, fusarium and anthracnose.

Examples of early varieties of watermelons with ripening dates and features:

Variety / Description	Ripening period / in days	External description of the berry	Fruit weight / kg	Features of the variety
Twinkle	70 — 80	Spherical shape The crust is thin, smooth, dark green. The pulp is red. Its structure is grainy.	1,6 – 2,5	Ripens after 45 days from seed pecking if conditions are met.
Gift to the north	75 — 85	Increased sugar content in the pulp. The berry is round. The crust is green with broken lines in color.	to 10	It is well transported, easily tolerates drought and disease.
Crimson sweet	65 — 83	Round shape watermelons. The crust is smooth, striped. The pulp is juicy, crispy, sweet.	3,2 — 8	The variety is resistant to diseases: powdery mildew, anthracnose, fusarium.
Charleston gray	85	The fruit is oblong, smooth. The pattern on the crust is stripes on a light green background of a darker shade. The pulp is firm.	11 — 13,5	Not resistant to frost. Requires additional cover.
Ultra early	80	The fruit is round. The crust is striped. The pulp is sweet, tender, red in color.	2,5 – 6,1	It differs in that the variety grows compactly, which is convenient for growing in small areas.
Sugar baby	45 — 50	The pulp is juicy, ruby ​​hue. It has a mild aroma and an incredibly sweet taste.	2 — 6	The variety is resistant to fungal diseases.
Skorik	65 — 93	Bright aroma. The watermelon is spherical, slightly depressed. Color - striped: from light green to dark green rolling color	6 — 8	Long stems require space. The yield is amicable and high.
Reddish	63 — 85	The lashes are medium in size. The fruit is deep red in color. The crust is thin.	6 — 8	Watermelon retains its quality and taste for a month after harvest. Disease resistant.

Watermelon variety Crimson Sweet

There are many varieties and hybrids of early watermelons. Flip through catalogs, ask sellers. Remember that varieties always retain the traits of a culture on the maternal line, but a hybrid does not. If you have chosen varietal watermelon seeds, then collecting them in the fall for future planting, you will be sure of the preservation of the taste, color, size and other qualities of the fruit. Provided that seeds from hybrids are preferred, there is no such confidence: the fruits will become much smaller, the taste will change, in general, the berry will no longer be the same.

Planting a watermelon in open ground

It is not possible to cultivate entirely "sunny" berries in the open field in the conditions of central Russia. The temperature regime of the air will not allow the watermelon to be fully saturated with light and warmth, as he would like. When using a film cover - yes, it is possible. The main thing is to organize everything correctly.
Do not leave more than two fruits on one lash.

Soil selection requirements

Watermelons need sandy, light soil, room to grow, warmth and water. Most of the soils throughout Russia are depleted. For a watermelon, the composition of the soil is important. Breathe life into the soil where you are going to plant "big" berries. The composition of the soil is as follows:

• low-lying peat
• sawdust
• sand
• mullein

Observe the proportions: 4: 3: 2: 3.After mixing the contents of the hole, leave the composition from autumn to spring. In early spring, continue to prepare the ground. Add minerals:

• 60 - 65 grams of nitrophoska
• 23 grams of superphosphate

Tip # 2. Be sure to cover the fertilizer in the soil. Spill a well and plant seedlings or watermelon seeds.

Seeds or seedlings: which is better?

The opinions of gardeners differ on this issue: some for seedlings, others for seeds. Both sides are growing full-fledged fruits and are quite happy with it. You need to know that when planting with seeds, they must be treated in any disinfecting solution, dried, held for 10 days in the sun and then soaked in warm water until they hatch. You need to plant seeds in the first decade of May. Remember: it is strictly necessary to cover it with a film, since the wave of spring frost reaches the middle lane until June.

Fertile soil and the right time to plant watermelons outdoors - 50% success

Seedlings are grown like this: the seeds are planted to a depth of 4 - 5 centimeters, watered abundantly and fed twice. Chicken droppings are ideal nutrition for young plants. Remember: watermelons are kept in seedlings for 25 - 35 days. And despite the fact that watermelons are planted in the ground two weeks later, you still have to cover with a film.

If the summer is rainy, the watermelon will not reach its bright red color and will taste mildly sweet. Such watermelons are used by summer residents for pickling. On warm and fine days, it is easier to achieve results. Fruits develop well and ripen only when the temperature is above 25 degrees. Based on these indicators, decide whether to shelter your pets on cool nights or not. Read also the article: → "Rules for caring for watermelons in the open field and in the greenhouse."

Pros and cons of planting watermelons in open ground

There are plenty of positive aspects, as well as negative ones, when cultivating watermelon in the open field. Take a look at the main ones. You will have to make the choice.

Three pros for open ground for watermelon	Three "cons" of growing watermelon on the ground
1. Enough space for free distribution of stems. 2. Direct pollination by bees. 3. In hot summer temperatures, the watermelon receives the sun's rays and warmth naturally.	1. Changes in temperature cause a disease called powdery mildew. 2. In a rainy summer - excess moisture is bad for the growth and health of plants. 3. Additional forces will be required to cover melons at night.

A film cover for growing watermelons in the middle lane is essential to create the right temperature. If you are lucky and nature is supportive, it will not be difficult to grow a watermelon outdoors. If you don't want to risk it, use a greenhouse for melons and gourds. If in the first option, you are not able to influence some factors, then in the second - completely.

Planting a watermelon in a greenhouse

Soil requirements remain the same. The exception is the application of mineral fertilizers. Here you need an accurate calculation for the available square meters. For 1 m2, add 3 tablespoons of nitrophosphate and one superphosphate.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse

The timing of planting seedlings depends on whether you have a heated greenhouse or not. If yes, then the end of February is the time, no - the first half of April. You need to start the process provided that the soil is well warmed up. There are ground thermometers, which are buried in the ground (you need 15 centimeters), you can observe a certain degree.

Do not oppress the plants when planting. Both in the open field and in the greenhouse, you need to maintain a distance of 70 * 70 centimeters. Prepare vertical trellises, twine and nets that will be needed to keep the fruit high. With a standard greenhouse 3 * 8 m, you will place no more than ten watermelon seedlings. Remember that vertical whips also form a shadow.If you plant more, the plants will find it difficult to breathe, and not everyone will be able to get sunbathing the same. This threatens stunting and diseases.

The climate in the greenhouse must be dry, such are the requirements for melons. This is extremely difficult to achieve. Experienced gardeners often ventilate greenhouses if the humidity level exceeds 70%. Only the ground should be wet. When watering, it is worth carefully pouring water into the near-stem circle, without touching the stems with drops.

Pros and cons of planting watermelons in greenhouses

You yourself have already noticed that this coin also has two sides. We propose to carefully consider both, before deciding on this method of cultivating watermelons.

Positive points	Negative points
1. With the vertical arrangement of the lashes, you save useful space. 2. The growth and ripening of watermelon does not depend on the weather and air temperature (in the presence of heating). 3. Many diseases can be avoided with careful attention to plants.	1. It is necessary to constantly monitor the humidity and take action if the indicators are high. 2. When planning joint plantings, the long roots of the watermelons will suffocate other plants. 3. We will have to ration the harvest, since one whip in an upright position is not able to withstand more than two fruits.

It is convenient to grow watermelons in a greenhouse on trellises using twine and netting

In addition to the listed disadvantages of growing watermelons in a greenhouse, there are points that require attention. Pollination of plants does not occur in a completely natural way. It is difficult to provide access for insects even through open doors and vents.

Many summer residents do it on their own. It is important to know that male flowers appear first in watermelons, female flowers after a few days (7-10). Only by calculating these days can we start pollination. It is convenient to do this with a foam sponge. If the accompanying work when growing fruits in a greenhouse does not scare you, feel free to start. Read also the article: → "Ways to increase the yield of different varieties of watermelons."

Common mistakes gardeners make when growing watermelons

There are several myths that lead to mistakes in the cultivation of melons. To avoid them, check out the final part of our article.

1. Watering should be stopped 10 days before harvest. Incorrect conclusion. If you disrupt the regularity of water supply to plants, watermelons will not gain the proper sugar content and will be tasteless. It makes sense to water before the ripening deadline. Abrupt cessation of water supply to the roots is fraught with changes in taste. In addition, these actions will affect the keeping quality of the fruit.
2. Melons grow in the fields on the available soil, no one fertilizes it, does not add additional components. It is also not correct to think so. Melons of large agricultural lands are fertilized with the same minerals, only on an industrial scale. Hence it went that the purchased watermelon, which appeared especially early on the shelves, is stuffed with nitrates. Fertilizing the soil for a watermelon is imperative. The main thing is not to overdo it. Otherwise, the same nitrate watermelons will appear on your table.
3. Plant watermelons with tomatoes in the greenhouse to save space. This myth has already been mentioned in the article. You may save space, but whether worthy nightshade plants will grow is a big question. The length of the root system of watermelons is equal to the length of its stems. In depth, they go from 40 centimeters to 10 meters. The roots are powerful and require a lot of nutrients.

Harvest of watermelons in the middle lane

As you know, the strongest survives in nature. The same will happen with the roots of your tomatoes. They will either be drowned out, or they will be deprived of a large share of the "delicacy" intended for growth and full development. Therefore, experts do not recommend planting tomatoes with watermelons. In addition, their watering does not proceed in the same way, and fertilizing is required at different times.
Juicy and sweet berries on your table are a worthy reward for your efforts

These mistakes are only a small part of those that gardeners make when growing watermelons. Tip: Study your farming practices carefully and thoroughly, adhere to norms, fill knowledge gaps with the help of our experts. Watermelons will delight residents of central Russia only if the above rules are followed, if there is love for plants and diligence. Big harvest of watermelons for you this year!

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Juicy sweet watermelons are always associated with summer and sun. The crackle of the striped peel under the edge of the knife, the characteristic aroma and the melting, refreshing pulp. What could be better than, forgetting about business for a while, enjoy a slice of ripe berries. Today, you can pamper yourself with watermelon at almost any time of the year. Supermarkets always have these giant berries, however, grown on the other side of the world or in a greenhouse.

The most delicious watermelon is the one that was saturated with the power of the sun and grew not under the film, but in the garden.

Many gardeners are wondering how to grow watermelons in the country? As of today, there are all the conditions for this. Thanks to the appearance of early varieties and hybrids, even residents of the Non-Black Earth Region can break their own melons and get a harvest of watermelons. How to grow watermelons outdoors? What kind of care does the culture require and when can the first fruits be harvested?

Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing

Of all the melons and gourds, watermelons have the most difficult seeds to germinate. In order for the seedlings to be friendly and strong, the seeds are first immersed in salt water. This will allow you to identify and remove not viable, light specimens, but those that are heavier and sunk to the bottom, use for sowing.

However, this is not enough. Shortly before planting, the seeds are heated for 3-4 hours at temperatures up to 55 ° C or left in the sun for a week in order to disinfect the seed in this way. Then the seeds are soaked in warm water for a day, which will accelerate germination and give the sprouts additional strength.

Planting watermelon seeds

In the Black Earth and southern regions, where watermelons are grown in summer cottages and industrial melons, the culture can be planted in open ground with seeds.

The best time for this is when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ° C. For sandy and other types of light loose soils, the seeding depth of watermelon seeds is 4–8 centimeters, but if the soil is heavy, dense, it is more correct to deepen the seeds by no more than 4–6 cm. And the smaller the seeds, the smaller the grooves for planting them are made. ...

Melons and gourds, especially during the ripening period, require good nutrition, which is provided by the main root system and small roots formed on separate lashes. Therefore, when growing watermelons in open ground, a rather large area is allocated for planting, the size of which depends both on the type of soil and on the variety, as well as on the expected load on the plant.

• If watermelons are sown in rows, gaps of 0.7 to 1.5 meters are left between the bushes. The row spacing in this case should be at least one and a half meters.
• When using a square planting scheme, a distance of 0.7 to 2.1 meters is laid between the plants.

The main thing is that as the planting grows, they do not turn out to be overly thickened, and all the berries that have set have enough light, moisture and nutrition.

Seedling method of growing watermelon

In the conditions of the middle zone, for example, in non-chernozem areas, as well as during a cold, prolonged spring in the southern regions, it is possible to grow watermelons in the open field through seedlings. From the moment of sowing to transplanting young plants into the ground, it usually takes from 25 to 35 days. It is most convenient for sowing to use peat pots with a diameter of about 10 cm, which are filled with a mixture of equal amounts:

• humus;
• turf land;
• peat.

The seeds are buried in moist soil 3-4 centimeters, after which the pots are left under a film until germination at a temperature not lower than 20-25 ° C, only at night the temperature background can drop to 18 ° C.

When sprouts appear above the ground level, the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. At a temperature of about 17-18 ° C, watermelon seedlings will have to stay for 3 to 4 days, which will allow you to get strong sprouts and prevent them from stretching. Subsequently, temperatures around 22–25 ° C are returned again during the daytime.

Regular watering is carried out with warm water, trying not to get on the leaf plates. A week after sprouting, the seedlings under the roots are fed with a fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Since melons are warm and light-loving crops, well-lit warm rooms or greenhouses are chosen for young watermelon plants, but a week before the seedlings get into the open ground, they must be hardened. To do this, the seedling boxes are exposed to the open air, first for 2–4 hours, then the time is gradually increased. In early June or at the end of May, watermelon seedlings are planted in the beds.

Choosing a site and soil for growing watermelon in the country

To get a good harvest from a watermelon grown in the country, it is important that the site intended for planting:

• was well lit;
• closed from cold winds;
• provided plants with proper nutrition.

The best soil for melons is light, fertile and loose. It is optimal if on summer cottages there is sandy and sandy loam soil, which has been enriched with humus or other well-rotted organic matter since autumn.

The best precursors for watermelons are legumes, crucifers, including cabbage and radish, as well as potatoes and tomatoes.

Before growing watermelons outdoors, care should be taken to prepare the ridges and fertilize the soil. Per meter of the garden bed in the spring they bring:

• 24–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 40–45 grams of superphosphate;
• 15-25 grams of potash fertilizers.

1-2 plants are planted in pre-moistened wells, located at intervals of 1-1.5 meters, or one peat cup is immersed so that cotyledon leaves remain above the soil level. After planting, the garden bed is mulched with sand, and the plants are sheltered from the sun. They act in a similar way when seedlings appear if watermelons are grown from seeds in the open field.

In the first week, while the acclimatization process is in progress, watermelons are watered with warm water.

Features of watering and feeding watermelons

It is impossible to grow a watermelon in the country without providing the plant with proper watering and feeding. Without water, it is difficult to talk about the juiciness of sweet berries, but you do not need to overdo it here, otherwise you will not achieve such a beloved sugar pulp. Before the flowers appear, watermelons are watered sparingly, and when the ovary appears on the lashes, more generously.

At a summer cottage for watermelons, it is convenient to use drip irrigation systems, with which you can also carry out regular feeding of plants.

When growing watermelons in the country, you need to remember that the culture loves rare, but abundant watering, which is extremely necessary in the hot season, in conditions of a shortage of natural moisture. A comfortable soil moisture level for watermelons is 85%. On sandy soil that does not retain moisture well, the beds are watered more often, and on black soil and clay soils - less often. When the berries are poured and they begin to ripen, watering is carried out less often, and then completely stopped.

The feeding schedule for watermelons grown in the country includes three procedures, during each of which approximately 2 liters of liquid fertilizers should be per plant. A week after planting in the ground, watermelons are watered with a solution of 10 liters of water:

• 40-50 grams of superphosphate;
• 30–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 15-20 grams of potassium salts.

When active growth of lashes begins on the plants, the watermelons should receive a second feeding with half the concentration of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. With the beginning of the formation of the ovaries, one more top dressing is carried out, introducing a solution under the watermelons growing in the country based on:

• 20-25 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 10 grams of superphosphate;
• 35 grams of potassium salts.

The nutrient mixture is introduced into furrows arranged in advance at a distance of 15–20 cm from the bushes.

A decrease in the proportion of nitrogen fertilizers is associated with the possibility of accumulation of nitrates in the pulp of berries. Also, this measure will push the plants not to gain green mass, but to ripen.

Caring for watermelons grown in the country

Caring for watermelons growing in the open field consists of:

• in regular loosening of the soil under the plants;
• in watering and feeding melons and gourds;
• in the removal of weeds;
• in the fight against plant pests and diseases;
• in the protection of lashes and ovaries from freezing.

The soil under the plants is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, not only after planting, but also after watering and rains, until the lashes and foliage cover the spaces between the individual bushes.

To protect the ovaries and shoots from the wind, it is useful to fasten the lashes to the ground with wire pins or sprinkle sections of the stem with moist soil.

If there is a risk of moisture stagnation or insufficient light in the area where watermelons grow, trellises are built for the plants and, at the beginning of the growth of the lashes, the shoots are transferred from the ground to strong vertical supports. The same technique is useful if there is not enough space in the country for growing watermelons using the traditional melon method. As they grow, the shoots are spread over a trellis or laid out on the ground so that one whip does not obscure the other.

If a watermelon is grown on a trellis in the country, it is recommended to leave only one main lash, on which, after flowering, depending on the variety and climate, from 3 to 6 fruits should be tied. The rest of the shoots are pinched in the early stages of growth, and then, when the ovary reaches the size of a five-ruble coin, the top of the fruiting stem is removed.

When growing watermelons in the open field by the melon method, pinch all the shoots after 3–6 ovaries, remove the stems that appear from the axils of the leaves and female flowers.

It is interesting that the trimmed side lashes can be rooted and also obtained from them, albeit a late and small, but high-quality harvest.

If there is a threat of frost in the area where watermelons grow, the plants are protected with cardboard or special covering material.

When to harvest watermelons?

Ripening tomatoes are easily recognizable by their discoloration. With cucumbers and zucchini - the main thing is not to linger with the collection, so that the vegetables do not lose their juiciness and useful properties. And when to pick watermelons, how to distinguish a ripe berry from one that still needs to warm the sides in the sun?

The earliest ripening varieties of watermelons in the central part of Russia can only yield a harvest by mid-August. At the same time, mass harvesting at the summer cottage is not carried out, except for cases when the berries on the melon are threatened with frost. While the warm season lasts, the ripe watermelons are cut from the lashes:

• with a glossy dense bark;
• with a deaf, audible sound when tapped;
• with a smooth peduncle without hairs inherent in the green ovary;
• with dry bracts and whiskers at the base of the leaf.

All these signs of ripeness must be considered in aggregate and only then are watermelons harvested, otherwise it is possible that the cut berry will be unripe.

However, when watermelons are used for storage or transportation, it is best to take the berries a few days before they are fully ripe. Such watermelons, being in a dry warm room, can ripen without losing any useful properties, or taste and aroma. But only watermelons harvested in a fully ripe state are suitable for obtaining seeds.

Growing watermelons in the middle lane - video