Parsnip the best varieties

There are many unsightly looking vegetable plants, greens and roots of which are of great benefit to the body.

These include the parsnip, a plant grown in many countries as a vegetable rich in vitamins and minerals. We will find out what this vegetable is, what its roots look like, and what types and varieties are cultivated by summer residents and gardeners.

Pasternak: description and history

Sowing parsnip - Pastinaca sativa

A perennial plant belonging to the Umbrella family, so named from "pastus", which means "food, sustenance" in Latin.

The parsnip is overgrown with oval, slightly pubescent, coarsely serrate or lobed leaves, and a branched stem that grows at least 30 cm.

Parsnip blooms with flowers with yellow corollas - umbrellas. Flowering begins in the second year of life.

In the first year of growth, parsnips form thick, light rhizomes with a pleasant aroma and sweet taste. They taste like carrots, and they smell like parsley, but they taste a little bitter. They can be elongated, like a carrot, and rounded, like a turnip.

Parsnip: description and history of the plant

Parsnip history

According to historians, the existence of parsnips was discovered in the eastern Mediterranean.

• It was first mentioned by Dioscorides and Pliny, who wrote a number of works in the first century BC.
• The Romans called him "pastinaca".
• In Greece and Rome, once they were treated, they ate themselves and gave food to livestock.
• The fact that parsnips have been growing since time immemorial is evidenced by the archaeological excavations of the Neolithic in Switzerland, in which its seeds were discovered.
• In 1542 the Germans learned about him. By the end of the century, in Germany and other European countries, many ate easily-grown and well-stored parsnips (there were no potatoes yet).
• In the same century, the plant was appreciated by the Americans: the American Indians even began to grow it, thanks to which the vegetable spread throughout all American states.

Parsnip came to Russia only in the 17th century, where it was called field borscht and was eaten no less often than turnip, rutabaga or radish. Then potatoes were brought to our country, and gradually they ousted this most useful plant from Russian gardens.

Nowadays, this vegetable is grown all over the world, but not in such quantities as it used to be.

Parsnip vegetable: plant photo

So that you can find out by the appearance of parsnips what a plant looks like, we suggest looking at several images of this vegetable.

Parsnip plantParsnip vegetable: plant photo

Parsnip vegetable: types and varieties

As for the parsnip species, they depend on the shape of the rhizomes:

• Long parsnip... A plant with an elongated root that prefers light, fertile soils.
• Round parsnip... A plant with a rounded root crop, unpretentious to growing conditions.

Now let's take a look at the best parsnip varieties.

Round parsnip varieties

The following varieties belong to the round type:

Delicacy

Variety of medium early ripening and long shelf life. The mass of the root crop is 200-350 grams, the length is about 8 cm. The pulp is white-yellow.

Round

A rapidly ripening plant that forms flattened, rounded white-gray roots weighing about 170 g. The pulp is white, with a pungent odor.

The yield of the variety from 1 square meter is from 2 to 3.7 kg of root crops.

Russian size

Frost-resistant variety with rounded-elongated and very long roots (up to 30 cm), sharp-smelling and sweet-spicy taste.

Parsnip vegetable: types and varieties

Long parsnip varieties

Modern gardeners grow the following varieties of long parsnips:

Harris Model

A variety that ripens in an average of 4 months, and forms long (up to 30 cm) ivory-colored roots. The pulp is white, delicate, with an excellent taste.

White stork

A fast ripening and long shelf life variety that forms smooth white roots up to 110 g in weight. The pulp is juicy and white, with a pleasant taste.

The yield of the variety is up to 3.8 kg per square meter.

Petrik

A variety of medium ripening (80 to 130 days) with dietary qualities. Forms white long roots (about 35 cm). The pulp is grayish-white, with a pleasant smell, juicy and tasty.

Chef

An early variety, ready to eat after 100 days. Forms a neat rosette of leaves and roots of a creamy shade with white flesh. The maximum weight is about 140 g.

The yield of the variety is up to 3 kg per 1 square meter.

Hormone An early ripening variety (from 70 to 110 days) with white roots growing up to 22 cm and 130 g in weight.

Best of all

A medium-ripening plant that forms white roots about two hundred grams in weight. It has a tasty and aromatic white pulp.

The yield of the variety is from 2.5 to 3.5 kg per square meter.

Boris

Early maturing plant with creamy roots. Possesses white, very tasty pulp.

Hollow Crown

A medium-ripening variety (3-4 months) with ivory-colored rhizomes about 30 cm long. The flesh is white, aromatic, especially tasty after frost.

Popular long parsnip varieties

Heart

It is a mid-season ripening variety, ripening in about 110 days, with light creamy roots, the weight of which reaches 100 g. The pulp is white and has a pleasant taste.

The yield of the "Heart" variety is from 1.8 to 4 kg per square meter.

Imperial

Early ripening variety (about 80 days) with ivory roots reaching 160 g.

Guernsey

A late-ripening variety that gives a bountiful harvest of dead root crops. The length of one rhizome is about 25 cm, weight is about 200 g. The pulp is white, sweet, with a wonderful aroma.

Student

A late ripening, high yielding variety that is drought tolerant. Forms white rhizomes, growing up to 30 cm in length and weighing about 160 g. The flesh is tasty and creamy, white in color.

The yield of the "Student" variety is from 2.5 to 3.5 kg per 1 square meter.

Gladiator

A medium-ripening variety that yields good yields of white root crops. The pulp is sugary, aromatic, white.

All American

A well-stored variety, ripening in a period of 100 to 140 days, forming white roots about 30 cm long. The flesh is white, sweetish.

White Fang

An unpretentious frost-resistant variety with an average ripening period (about 120 days), which forms well-stored root crops up to 130 g in weight. The pulp is white, not very juicy. It is distinguished by a delicate aroma and a spicy-sweet taste.

The yield of the variety is from 2.5 to 3.5 kg per square meter.

Now you know that parsnip is an undeservedly forgotten plant and that it once replaced potatoes. Try to grow it in your garden, choosing the right varieties, and enrich your diet with a new vitamin vegetable!

Round grade

Most commonly grown parsnip varieties

Parsnip varieties in shape, they are short round and long cone-shaped. Amateur gardeners grow mainly one type of short round variety and three to four types of long. I will tell you about these varieties.

Round

Early ripening variety, vegetation period 100 - 115 days. The root crop is rounded-flattened, 8 - 10 cm long, 6 - 8 cm in diameter. The root crop mass is 100 - 160 grams. Productivity 2 - 3.5 kg / m2.

Variety Best of All

Best of all

The variety is medium early, the growing season is 100 - 130 days. The root crop is conical, 10 - 19 cm long, 4 - 8 cm in diameter. Root weight 100 - 120 grams. Productivity 2 - 2.5 kg / m2.

Gerisei

The variety is mid-season, the vegetation period is 110 - 130 days. The root crop is conical, 20 = 26 cm long, 6 - 11 cm in diameter. Root weight 150 - 190 grams. Productivity 3 - 3.8 kg / m2.

Variety Student

Student

The variety is mid-season, the growing season is 140 - 160 days. Conical root crop 20 - 30 cm long, 3.5 - 5 cm in diameter. Root weight 100 - 160 grams. Productivity 2 - 3.5 kg / m2.

Variety Culinary

Chef

Medium early variety, growing season 80-85 days. The cone-shaped root crop is completely submerged in the soil. The pulp is white, rough. Root weight 140-150 g. Productivity 2.5 - 3 kg / m2.

Read the blog post on how to grow parsnips on your property.

Hope this information was useful to you!

Hello dear readers!

Quite recently, I came across such an expression about parsnips: "Who knows, he loves it, who does not know, must love it."

And, indeed. how not to love it, if its useful properties can be compared with ginseng.

Having eaten a salad with the addition of parsnips, you will immediately feel how much strength is added and you are already ready for new exploits)

In addition, he is not at all picky when growing.

This white carrot with parsley leaves will take root in your garden for a long time if you grow a parsnip at least once.

Parsnip, although they knew him in ancient Rome, has wild ancestors in our country.

Until now, uncultivated species grow in the Caucasus, this is its historical homeland.

Parsnips grew in ancient times in many European regions, as well as in Asia.

The Romans and Greeks did not know the nutritional value of the culture; they raised it as a fodder culture.

Of the 15 species known in nature, one is domesticated. In Russia, parsnip is widespread everywhere.

Biological portrait

Umbelliferae family, a relative of dill, parsley and other greens, forming an inflorescence - an umbrella.

Sowing parsnip - perennial or biennial. Its shoots are similar to emerging parsley or celery, but the leaf is immediately larger.

Usually, it is richer in color, but lighter (depending on the variety).

Plant height depends on growing conditions:

• Soil type;
• Care;
• Landing schemes.

Affects height and variety selection. Therefore, a parsnip can be a low bush, thirty centimeters high, and can grow up to 2 meters.

Nutritional value - root vegetables. The shape of the root crop is either conical, like a carrot, or round, like a radish.

It is formed in the first growing year, which is convenient for the gardener.

The next season, the parsnip drives out the flower-bearing stems (“goes into the tube”), gives seeds.

Root crops of the second year are not eaten. The parsnip root becomes coarse, almost woody.

The value of culture

Parsnip has many admirers as a spice.

Refined aroma, pleasant taste, allow it to be present in different dishes.

Soups, addition to main courses, independent dishes, side dishes. Parsnips are especially good for meat.

It is also used for canning, harvesting pickled vegetables for the winter.

They even called the plant parsnip from the Latin word for food, it is consonant with pastus.

Parsnips are tasty, in addition, they are healthy:

• Aroma - stimulates the appetite;
• Serves as a pain reliever for various types of colic: renal, hepatic, gastric;
• Relieves cough;
• Increases potency;
• Has a diuretic effect;
• Helps with dropsy;
• Treats loss of appetite;
• Has a sedative effect;
• Regulates metabolic processes due to saturation with vitamins, minerals, acids of organic origin;
• Relieves vascular spasms;
• Washes out kidney stones;
• Parsnip seeds are also healing. From seeds in pharmaceuticals, drugs are used in dermatology. They are treated with "parsnip" medicine - vitiligo. It also helps with psoriasis, hair loss (baldness).

Parsnip is a universal plant. And the taste will delight, and health benefits.

Only ignorance, busyness or unwillingness to benefit prevents gardeners from paying more attention to parsnips.

This culture deserves a place in the garden of any site. Who grows - knows this.

Popular varieties

There are many varieties of parsnips, they differ in the shape of the root crop and the timing of ripening.

Hormone... An early ripening variety with an interesting name. The cone-shaped root crop is ready for the table already 2.5 months from germination.

Length - 20 cm on average, weight over 100 g. Aromatic, good as a seasoning.

A stand-alone dish - fried, stewed, or boiled - won't disappoint either.

Guernsey... This variety will take longer to grow - almost 4 months.

It is also early, but mid-early. Cold resistant. The root crop is conical.

Delicacy... This variety is also referred to as medium early. It is indeed a delicacy, very tasty, fragrant.

The shape is round, the root crop can weigh more than 300 g.

Round... Another rounded root vegetable (the unassuming name indicates the species).

The shape, however, is rounded only at the top, the root crop itself is elongated. It weighs half the previous one.

It is inferior in taste to others, in aroma - too. But it will ripen quickly - a little over three months and is ready.

In addition, it is unpretentious to soils: it will cope with heavy ones, it will grow and mature.

Best of all. Medium early - ready in 3 months, in the south it matures in just 2.

Fragrant, conical, up to 150 g. Lying - you can sow early, and to store - at the end of May.

Harvest, tasty, justifies its name.

White stork... It is considered mid-season, although it ripens approximately as early as Guernsey - in 4 months.

A white, carrot-like root vegetable. Weight 100 g (average).

The purpose is food, the taste is excellent. Ripening amicable, well stored - it lies for a long time without spoilage.

Gladiator... Also mid-season, conical, white. Harvested, grows well.

Large root crops. A culinary variety.

Gavrish... By maturity - medium early, less than 3 months is enough for it.

Cold-hardy, even frost-hardy, grows normally even at low plus (5 °) temperatures.

Seedlings will withstand a short-term five-degree frost, the grown plant will endure frost and minus eight.

Student... Late (150 days) fruitful variety. Root crops are large, conical. Length 30 cm.

Tasty, aromatic, with white flesh. Drought-resistant.

Petrik... Diet mid-season variety. Valuable in cooking and healing, especially for men.

The shape of the root crop is conical. Tasty, fragrant.

Parsnips of any kind, even uncultivated ones, are a product that carries healing substances to the human body.

Parsnips will show useful properties both in food and in special infusions for treatment.

When planning a set of crops for seeding, do not forget about it.

Growing parsnips

Most gardeners have heard about the root crop, many even ate parsnips, but not everyone knows how to grow it.

The culture is cultivated either by sowing in the ground, or by the seedling method. How convenient, the grower decides for himself.

Not every gardener manages to get parsnip shoots. The reason is usually the seeds.

Umbrella crops are mostly essential oil. Seeds containing various essential oils do not have a long shelf life.

The best seeding period is the next year after harvest. Already in the second storage season, the germination rate of essential oil plants drops sharply, sometimes to zero.

Therefore, purchase seeds from bona fide sellers, in trusted stores. Or grow it yourself.

Sowing time

Sowing dates for parsnips vary. The weather, the region and the desire of the vegetable grower himself affect.

The parsnip is cold-resistant, it will endure the February sowing, you can choose March, April, even May.

You need to get it earlier, earlier and sow.Parsnips are the first to succeed in winter sowing.

For winter storage, calculate the timing - when in the region, stable frosts begin.

The countdown for late varieties is 5 months.

Sowing

Seed preparation... Parsnip seeds are similar. They germinate for a long time, so it is optimal to prepare them in advance for sowing.

First, a day of soaking. Pour in water, change it periodically to stay fresh. Stand in the room.

After the water is drained, the seeds are left wet in a cloth, placing it where the seeds do not dry out (plastic bag, plastic container with a lid).

You can't put in moistened seeds and just wait. Periodically, after about 3 days, the tissue with the seeds is taken out, the seeds are washed right in it with fresh water. Check the condition of them.

Good seeds do not grow moldy, have a normal smell. Unviable - deteriorate.

When viewed, the seeds are ventilated - aeration is also needed. Then the cloth is rolled up and put back into a wet temporary storage.

After a week and a half, sprouts will sprout. These are the roots. The seeds are viable and almost ready.

Hardening remained. By placing the seeds closer to the freezer (don't be afraid to freeze - they will last) of the refrigerator, prepare the soil.

Soil preparation... When choosing a place, we take into account: parsnips are photophilous, but not supportive of the heat.

If landing in the south, it is better to prefer partial shade for culture than an open hot place.

Partially the soil is ready - dug up in the fall, froze in winter and ripened in spring.

In autumn, fertilizers (NPK) are applied or rotted manure is plowed in on areas poor in soil mineral composition.

In the spring, shallow furrows are cut, parsnips will be sown in them.

If the soil is heavy, the sowing grooves are made deeper. Humus is poured at the bottom of them.

The row spacing is left up to half a meter wide - an orientation according to the variety, type of soil, the expected height of the plant.

Sowing seeds... The hardened seeds with mini-roots are carefully distributed in the grooves, the interval is 12 cm.

The grooves are pre-shed. The seeds are equipped with impellers, which makes them larger, more visible, and easier to sow.

You can play it safe and plant it twice as close, this will replace the unripe seeds. But then thinning is required.

Light rolling (you can lay the board along the length or width of the bed, press it down, then transfer it to the area next to it) will help the soil and seeds adhere.

If the soil is not sufficiently moistened, moderate watering will compact it.

If sowing podzimny, sowing thicker, seedlings thin out themselves - not all sprout.

Embedding at any selected sowing time - 4 cm, no deeper.

Sowing seedlings... All root crops do not like transplantation, they tolerate it hard.

The slightest trauma to the roots, especially the central one, and the roots will grow ugly: bifurcated, twisted, non-standard. Therefore, parsnips do not dive.

Prepared (germinated) seeds are sown in a lump of nutrient mixture, preferably in a peat pot, so that later the grown plant can be planted with it.

They also sow in pots with a safety net, two seeds each, slightly moving them away. This is necessary so that later, removing the excess, does not injure the main plant.

Parsnips are sown in pots shallowly, by 1 cm.

Growing seedlings... The potted substrate is kept moist so that the roots develop. Excessively moisturizing is unacceptable.

Drying of the surface of the substrate can be avoided by covering the pots with foil. Check moisture every day, waiting for sprouts to sprout.

Ascended - provide light, the parsnip loves it. If sowing early, it is better to highlight, prolonging daylight hours.

Then the sprouts will be strong, they will not stretch out.

Monthly seedlings are ready for planting. Parsnips are planted according to the accepted sowing scheme.

The only difference is that they are planted immediately at the optimal distance, no thinning is required.

And instead of grooves - holes. Dip the pots in them carefully, without damaging the roots.

A handful of ash in the hole will also not hurt.Then the survival rate is high, and the harvest will delight you with the shape of the root crops.

Caring for parsnips

The unpretentiousness of the plant makes care easy. It is important to go through the first phase, especially when seeding in the ground.

Necessary:

• Keep soil moist - sprouts grow slowly at first. Dry, crusty earth is an obstacle to seedlings, on which they are thinned out.
• Remove weeds in a timely manner: they are quickly able to "kill" young parsnips with their active growth.
• Loosen the aisles.

As soon as the seedlings have strengthened, have risen, leaving is simplified.

The parsnip gives a decent rosette of leaves, begins to suppress the weeds by itself.

The foliage covers the ground, keeping moisture.

You can give one or two top dressing (foliar, spraying or under the root - with watering), if the soil is not rich in composition.

Mullein or diluted, fermented bird droppings are fine.

The second half of the growing season does not require such fertilizing, they are even harmful. The root crop can crack (sometimes eating a lot and plants are not in favor).

Further, mainly watering as needed, loosening and cleaning the row spacings from weeds.

Leaving is preferable in the morning, in the evening - not in the heat.

In the sun, parsnips release essential oils from their leaves, which can act as allergens. Allergy sufferers are best served with protective gloves with this crop - at all times.

Pests and diseases

Parsnips are damaged by pests, sometimes - plant diseases.

Pests

Parsnip is a persistent plant, and has few enemies. They are common with other umbrella-shaped ones.

But parsnips are more resistant, less affected, therefore, pests are called not by his name, but by the name of their relatives:

• Carrot fly;
• Celery fly;
• Field bug;
• Caraway moth;
• Striped shield bug;
• Root aphid.

They look at parsnips if they don't find the main, favorite, culture.

Or if the umbrella plots are inadvertently located - next to each other.

Carrot fly... Red-haired, small, but the harm from a miniature half-centimeter fly is great.

The fly has adapted to lay eggs directly in the root collar of the plant.

When hatching, the larvae immediately bite into the root crop, and feed on it for almost a month. They manage to thoroughly pierce the parsnip with moves, spoil it.

They attack the damaged root crop and rot, cracking occurs. Fighting the fly is necessary.

Having found it on the plot of any umbrella, change the tactics of growing them:

• Alternate rows of parsnips and onions. Get a double benefit: onions will scare off carrot flies, and parsnips will scare onion flies. Garlic in the aisles will do a similar service. At the same time, it will seal the landings. Thus, the sensible placement of vegetables makes them helpers in protection from adversity.
• It is customary to plant parsnips rarely - do not break the rule. The carrot fly prefers moist places. Rare landings are well ventilated, the fly is uncomfortable there. Avoid lowlands - there is also stagnant moisture.
• The soil on a small plot can be sprinkled with mustard powder. This will scare the fly away.
• If a fly annoys - spraying with diluted ammonia will annoy - her. She will fly away.
• You can spray the plot with caustic improvised infusions (potato or tomato tops, garlic, wormwood).
• A filtered weekly infusion of burdock will also help.

Celery fly... It affects umbellates, and also harms parsnips. The fly is also small, like the carrot. The color is brown with a red tint.

Affects the aboveground mass: lays eggs inside, under the skin. They are transparent, invisible.

If the clutch is numerous, a tubercle is formed. It changes color to brown.

If the parsnip is slightly affected by the celery fly at this stage, the tubercles can simply be crushed.

If the stage is skipped, the larvae hatch. They feed on tissues of leaves and stems for a whole month.

Leaves wither, die. The larvae go to the soil to pupate.

Compliance with agricultural techniques, crop rotation, the correct neighborhood of crops - protect from the pest.

When there are few infected plants, it is advisable to remove them from the site, neutralize, destroy.

If the lesion is massive, odor-repelling substances (naphthalene) or insecticidal treatments of the plot are used.

Field bug... Another miniature parsnip lover.

A small gray bug with a greenish tint. Harms the green part, the larvae hatch inside the tissues and suck the juice out of them.

The bug is also poisonous for parsnips - its saliva contains caustic toxins.

Affected plants, if they bind seeds, are sterile. The bug is destroyed with insecticides.

Insecticides of the organophosphorus group are more reliable, although they are toxic to humans.

Caraway moth... Picky insect - eats parsnips - everything.

"Tops and roots" - the caterpillars of this pest do not miss anything. If the plant manages to bloom, they will get into the flowers, "chase" what is possible.

It is difficult to fight, preventive measures are needed.

Handy way: infusion of tomato tops. Half a bucket of tops is poured to the top with boiling water. A day later, two people spray a plot with parsnips with a strained solution.

Tomato tops are poisonous to caterpillars - they contain solanine.

Striped bush bug... Hardly anyone has not seen this bug.

Bright red color with black stripes and a very unpleasant odor.

Such a bug does not just "walk" in the garden, it is a pest. Shieldworm loves umbrella, he will definitely visit the umbrellas of carrots, dill, of course, and - parsnips.

It feeds on plant juices. The bug itself is poisonous, the birds do not touch it.

The stink bug does not do much harm, although it feeds on all stages of growth.

It is possible to reduce the number by manual collection of the pest, no processing is carried out.

Root aphid... Aphids are capable of parasitizing, specializing in plant roots.

They call this - root. There is another name: grass louse. The insect is small, yellow or greenish in color.

Most aphids are wingless, but some are winged. They settle more with mobile larvae.

To do this, the tramps (larvae) have to go to the surface, they are mobile, fast, find new owners and again go deeper closer to the roots, into the soil.

The larvae feed on the juices of the roots. Damaging the roots, they open the gates to various infections: fungi, bacteria, viral diseases.

First of all, agricultural technology is opposed to aphids. Crop rotation, harvesting plant residues.

Roots and weeds abandoned on the site are a refuge for the wintering of the pest.

Biological products (boverin, fufanon and the like) will also help.

Chemical insecticides are an extreme case, sometimes you have to resort to them, applying at the root.

Parsnip disease

Mostly it is rot, they are caused by settled on damaged (or in high humidity) root crops.

Rot often occurs during storage. This is:

• Gray rot;
• Bacterial wet rot;
• White rot.

Powdery mildew... The disease is recognized by the white bloom covering the leaves.

The fungus spreads quickly, the leaves die, the yield is reduced or not formed at all.

Fight rot - prevention. Prepare storage facilities (disinfection, drying), maintain optimal humidity, low temperature during storage.

Powdery mildew is destroyed with copper preparations, they try not to overmoisten the crops, not to thicken them, so that there is airing.

In general, parsnips are hardy and rarely get sick.

Cleaning and storage

Parsnips are loyal to low temperatures, they can be removed "under the curtain" - before frost.

Small short frosts will not damage the root vegetable.

To minimize damage when digging, it is better to use a pitchfork, not a shovel.

The leaves are hot, you need gloves. Especially if the harvesting is early, at the beginning of the drying of the leaves - this is also practiced.

Storing parsnips is not easy. In a humid room, he is comfortable, but comfortable and pathogenic flora, it can cause disease.

When the air is dry, the parsnip withers, loses its juiciness and taste. The temperature must be maintained strictly, the range is small: 0 + 2 °.

Therefore, storage is easier for southerners - there you can leave the roots undigged, they hibernate without any problems.

To dig in when needed to the table is such a storage technology.

Not everyone grows a useful root crop.

Undeservedly pushed aside, pushed aside by other cultures, it is still waiting for the return of its former food fame.

If it is not yet provided for in your crop rotation, do not regret a little space, plant at least a couple of rows.

After that, you are unlikely to give up nutritious, tasty and healing parsnips: it will be registered on the site to your satisfaction.

 

 

See you soon, dear readers!

You can also read on this topic:

Tags: parsnip

I wanted to share my experience of growing and using parsnips or, as the people say, “white carrots”. I think that it is completely unjustifiably remembered about him so rarely!

Parsnip: benefits

In folk medicine, parsnip has long been used for diseases of the respiratory system, gallbladder and as a product that increases vitality and male strength.

It is harmless for people with diabetes. It is especially effective in the treatment of joint diseases. It has anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. I use it raw: I put the skin on gauze - and on the sore joint - I wrap it up for 2-3 hours. This procedure is best done at night for 7-10 days. The result will please you already on the 3-4th day.

I just want to warn people with kidney disease. Parsnips in large quantities can cause kidney stones to move and cause complications.

Reference by topic: How to dry vegetables: tomatoes, cabbage, roots (parsley, celery and parsnips)

Growing parsnips

And now I want to offer recommendations for growing parsnips. I warn you right away that parsnips do not like acidic soils and fresh manure - checked! In such conditions, the roots branch out strongly (photo 1).

I have been preparing the garden since the fall: before digging, I bring in humus and sprinkle it with ashes. It should be noted that parsnips are photophilous.

I sow the seeds at the end of May (depending on the weather) in damp ground. I "trample" the beds for friendly seedlings.

I break through at a distance of 10-12 cm in the presence of 3-4 leaves.

Parsnips have a very beautiful openwork green mass, a decoration of any garden. He loves abundant, but infrequent watering.

Reacts well to loosening.

But, in general, he is unpretentious. I harvest in late autumn, although we have been eating it since August. My observations have shown that unripe roots taste sweeter and adults more aromatic.

I provide myself with seeds by planting 3-4 healthy root crops in the spring (photo 2). The care is the same as for the garden bed, but I fertilize it twice with complex fertilizers and to prevent the appearance of aphids, I treat it with a vinegar solution: 1 glass of vinegar (9%) per 10 liters of water, I process it in the morning in dry weather.

See also: Turnips, Swiss chard, parsnips and turnips, etc. - cultivation and recipes

We also use parsnips in their raw form, as an addition to salads and oatmeal porridge for breakfast (photo 3), in the first and second courses.

It gives a unique taste and aroma to borscht. But canned parsnips are especially good. Zucchini, cucumbers, parsnip salads turn into a real delicacy!

I hope that my experience will help readers to settle this wonderful root in their beds. Believe me, he will not disappoint you, but on the contrary, will give you a lot of vital energy, raise your tone!

Pasternak - planting and care (personal experience of summer residents and gardeners)

They planted parsnips when there were still no potatoes ...

I confess, but I only started thinking about parsnips after reading about it in a history book. I was impressed that in those days, when potatoes were not yet grown in our country, this particular culture could be called the second bread, as it was so widespread. And then the parsnip somehow more and more went into the shadows, and today only the most advanced gardeners know about it.

It was to one of them that I turned with the question about the agricultural technology of this culture. And what I heard from him further increased my desire to get to know parsnips.Indeed, of all root crops, it is the most nutritious and healthy, and it is also very easy to grow. It is a biennial plant of the celery family. It is also called a white carrot because of its external resemblance, however, in size it will give a hundred points ahead. On my beds, for example, by the end of the first season, thick large conical “pigs” are already forming. Of course, here a lot depends on the variety: for example, the Student variety, which I began to grow in recent years, has a rounded shape.

Parsnip has a pleasant aroma reminiscent of parsley and a spicy sweetish taste similar to carrot. I like to make salads from his root vegetables: in the summer I add greens, various vegetables, in the winter - carrots, an egg. Any refueling. Fried parsnips are delicious, and this addition of squash caviar is much more piquant. I also use fried parsnips as a filling for pies. I put it in and vegetable soups, in vegetable stew. I was taught to salt cabbage with parsnips instead of carrots, and at the same time it turns out to be surprisingly white, tender!

Having cut the root vegetable into cubes, you can preserve it with tomatoes, and you can also brew surrogate coffee. The smallest of the grown root crops I wash, cut into small pieces and dry in the summer in the sun. It turns out a seasoning that gives a unique taste and aroma to soups and gravies. Sometimes I add dried parsley root and root celery root to dried parsnips - this mixture gives the dishes absolutely unique flavors!

You don't even need to sow parsnips!

Parsnips are the only vegetable that winters well, regardless of freezing temperatures coupled with a thin snow cover. In late autumn, I cut off the greens, cover the root crop with soil a little. Of the overwintered root crops, two pieces (the largest) I leave for seeds, I dig out the rest in May and eat them. At this time, other stocks of root crops are already running out, and parsnips are just the way to go. My neighbors at the dacha laugh: "We are only sowing root crops in May, and you are already harvesting them."

I leave the testes near the ridges. Root crops in July "dubbed", produce flower stalks about 1.5 m high. By September, seeds ripen in umbrella-shaped inflorescences. They are light brown, flat, rather large. Overripe seeds fall off easily, and are carried by the wind throughout the garden. In the spring, where the parsnip sprouts interfere, I harvest it, and thin it out on the ridges so that it is larger. Seeds, by the way, can be sown in early spring or late autumn.

The root crop gives a large rosette of leaves, so it should not be thickened - 30-40 cm between rows and 10-15 cm between plants. The seeding depth on loam is 2-3 cm, on sandy loam soils - a little more than 4-5 cm. Seeds germinate very slowly. Young shoots can withstand frosts down to -5 °, adult plants up to -8 °.

Caring for parsnips is simple: weeding, loosening the soil, infrequent but abundant watering. Watering can be combined with top dressing: 10 g of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium per 10 liters of water. For me, parsnips are the easiest vegetable to handle. At first I planted it for two years in a row, but now it is sown with me myself. In the summer, I sometimes weed and water it.

The hardest part is harvesting. Root crops are long, with a powerful central root and a large number of lateral roots, which hold firmly to the ground. If the ridge was deeply plowed,

It is easier to pull out the parsnips, but you still have to pry them off with a shovel or pitchfork. I twist small root crops out of the ground (also, by the way, I have to make efforts).

Parsnips are unpretentious, can grow on any soils, but on light loamy or sandy loamy soils it will be larger. Lime must be added to acidic soils in the fall. I add humus to the ridges in the spring, but I'm afraid of manure. When digging into the ground, I introduce mineral fertilizers: superphosphate, potassium, ammonium nitrate.

My parsnips have never been sick with anything, and no pests touch it, it pleases the eye with beautiful bright green foliage until harvesting.

Parsnip varieties

My favorite varieties: Croatian, White stork, Russian size (the biggest). Note that parsnip seeds only last for one year. I sincerely advise everyone to try growing this wonderful, healthy vegetable. I wish you success!

Parsnip: seasoning from the garden

I've been growing parsnips for three years now, and it's a pity that I met him so late. In late April - early May, I soak the seeds in a gauze bag in water for a day. I change the water several times: parsnip seeds, like carrots, celery, contain essential oils. When planting, I bring in ash and nitroammofosk, I dig everything up and sow germinated seeds with a 2-2.5 cm embedding in the soil, then I water it, I do not cover it with anything.

Parsnip is a cold-resistant plant, it begins to germinate at a temperature of 5-7 °. Seedlings appear in two weeks. Loves watering, but not excess moisture. When thinning, I leave the distance between the plants 8-10 cm, but between the rows - up to 40 cm. So they do not oppress each other, but develop well.

The leaves of parsnips are large, feathery - while they are young, I use them in salad. Seedlings can be damaged by a carrot fly, against which I dust the plantings with a mixture of tobacco dust and grass ash. I try to take care of parsnips in cloudy weather: on very hot days, due to the release of essential oils in contact with open parts of the body, skin irritation can occur. The first time I feed with nitrogen fertilizers after thinning: 1 tbsp. l. in a 10 liter bucket of water. Then, in the process of growth - potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

I start harvesting at the end of October, when the lower leaves begin to die off. I dig it carefully, without damaging the root crop, I tried to leave part of the crop in the ground, after cutting off all the leaves, covered it with humus and threw in plant residues. In the spring I dug up good root crops. I store it in a box of sand in the cellar.

I appreciate the parsnip for its good taste and delicate aroma. I use it as a side dish and seasoning for first courses and canned vegetables. It contains a lot of vitamins and mineral salts. And it also dilates blood vessels, which is useful with high blood pressure (I am hypertensive), and also improves sleep and generally helps to feel better. My favorite variety is Russian size.

Salad

I rub the parsnips on a grater, add horseradish root, an apple and onions (you can also use dill greens). I fill everything with mayonnaise.

Casserole

Parsnips and carrots are grated, peeled, and salt. Beat a few eggs with milk separately. I grease the pan with oil, spread the vegetables and let it sweat a little. Then pour in the mixture and bake in the oven for several minutes.

How wonderful the parsnip is!

White carrots with parsley leaves are actually parsnips. A very useful and easy to grow plant. Its roots contain a huge amount of vitamins: A, group B, C, trace elements: iron, potassium, copper, phosphorus, as well as sugars, essential oils and other useful substances.

WHERE TO START GROWING A PASTERNAK?

Growing parsnips is easy enough. He is not very picky in the choice of soil, although he does not like frankly acidic and clayey, drought-resistant and frost-hardy. It is better to plant a plant in spring, and before this fall, you need to carefully prepare the soil. To do this, carefully dig up the selected plot of land and add humus (5 kg per 5 liters of water - per 1 sq. M of soil).

In the spring, dig up the soil again and remove weeds if they appear. Add nitrogen fertilizer to the soil (in the amount of 25 g per 1 sq. M). Seeds should be planted in open ground in late April - early May. The seeds are pre-soaked in warm water for 24 hours. In this case, as it cools, the water is changed to a new one. Then the seeds are treated with one of the means to stimulate growth.

To plant seeds, make furrows with a row spacing of 40-50 cm.Sow the seeds to a depth of no more than 2 cm. Then pour warm water over the garden bed.

The first shoots will appear on the garden bed only after 2-3 weeks. When the first 3 leaves appear on the plants, the parsnips must be thinned so that a distance of about 30 cm remains between the plants.Immediately after this, the plants must be fed with complex nitrogen fertilizer (25 g per Yul of water per 1 sq. M). During the season, 2 more fertilizing should be carried out with complex mineral fertilizers, diluted according to the instructions on the package.

Parsnip is a biennial plant. In the first year, the parsnip ripens a root crop (this requires 4 to 6 months from the start of planting). In the second year, the root crop throws out an arrow with umbrella flowers that contain seeds. By the way, parsnips reproduce well on their own.

APPLICATION OF PASTERNAC

Parsnip leaves are harvested for medicinal purposes in July. They are dried and crushed. Root crops are harvested not earlier than October, but also in November. Use a rake to carefully scoop up the roots without touching the tops, which can burn your hands. You need to store root vegetables in boxes with sand in cellars or on closed balconies. Also, root vegetables can be washed, dried, cut into thin slices and dried at room conditions.

Parsnip is useful for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, kidney stones and urinary tract, improves blood circulation, increases immunity and appetite.

• Parsnip leaf decoction... take 20 g of dried leaves, add 200 ml of boiling water and cook in a water bath for 15 minutes. Then cool and strain. Take 20 ml 3 times a day for kidney and urinary tract stones. If such a decoction is prepared in the proportion: 20 g of leaves per 400 ml of water, then you should also take 20 ml 3 times a day, but already from baldness.

• Infusion of parsnip leaves... Take: 20 g of leaves, pour 300 ml of water and boil. Then remove from heat, cover and leave for 4 hours. Strain and take 50 ml 3 times a day before meals for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract.
• Parsnip root vegetable infusion, take 40 g of roots, chop them and put them in a thermos, pour 200 ml of boiling water. Insist all night. Then strain, add 20 g of honey and take 20 ml 3 times a day to increase vitality, with anemia and to improve immunity. In addition, such an infusion will help improve the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract, has antispasmodic properties and heals colds.
• Parsnip root vegetable tincture... Take 500 ml of vodka and add 30 g of parsnip roots. Seal and store in a cool, dark place for a month. Then strain and take 10-15 ml 3 times a day to improve mood and calm the nervous system.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

Growing parsnips and its benefits (Omsk region): How I grow parsnips, and ... Sowing parsnips in the winter: Parsnips: sowing right nowSince it is growing ... Sowing parsnips and caring for them in the open field: Parsnips: growing a variety of benefits and ... We grow a "white root" - parsnips and root parsley (Krasnoyarsk Territory): Parsnips and root parsley - experience ... Requirements of vegetables for heat and light, watering and length of the day: Vegetables - moisture-loving and drought-resistant, ... What vegetables can winter in the soil: What can be left in the ground ... Cultivation vegetables for seeds in the garden: We get our own seeds For sowing use ...

Subscribe to updates in our groups.

Let's be friends!