The best Siberian grape varieties

Those who have tasted Siberian grapes say that it tastes as good as those brought from the south. A significant advantage of local berries is that they are cleaner than southerners, since they are not processed to preserve their presentation, and when grown, chemicals are used only when necessary. Of course, the agricultural technology of this culture has completely unique regional features, but the experience accumulated by gardeners allows any Siberian to grow grapes.

How grapes ended up in Siberia

It is not easy to cultivate grapes in the northern regions, but it is possible with the help of work and having the necessary knowledge. Indeed, even in the Solovetsky Monastery on the White Sea, the monks grew it.

The climate of Siberia with long winters, strong return frosts, large amplitude of seasonal and daily temperatures, strong winds is not comfortable for grapes.

The promotion of grapes in a territory with a cold climate was initiated by Stalin in the last century. At that time, active selection work was underway to develop frost-resistant varieties. In Altai, in the fifties of the twentieth century, a vineyard was even organized, a trial wine was made, but in the Brezhnev seventies, breeding work was stopped and the vineyards were cut down.

Only such enthusiasts of Siberian viticulture as Rostislav Sharov, Fyodor Shatilov, Mikhail Levchenko, Valery Nedin and some others continued the work interrupted on a national scale. They created their own sections and schools, where the invaluable practical experience of grape culture in Siberia was accumulated and disseminated.

The Grape Tale Continues

Due to the brevity of the Siberian summer, only varieties can be grown in the open field:

• with a minimum ripening period of berries - early ripening, super early, medium early;
• with high resistance to low temperatures.

In our time, the cultivation of grapes beyond the Urals has become quite common among summer residents and owners of personal plots. Varieties with a short ripening period of local selection appeared: Tomich, Siberian cheromushka, Muscat, Zagadka, Buratino bred by Sharov.Popular among Siberian winegrowers are the varieties Aleshenkin, Vostorg, BCHZ (In Memory of Dombkovskaya), Tukai and, of course, the winter-hardy Lydia and Isabella, bred in the USA. Grown in the region, using additional film shelter in spring and autumn, and such purely southern varieties as Cardinal, Arcadia, Husayne.

About grapes in Siberia - video

Uncovering grapes of Siberia

Most people believe that the vine is a southern, thermophilic plant, but it turns out to be in the Far East (south of the Khabarovsk and Primorsky Territories) and in the northeast of China, such a relic of the Ice Age as Amur grapes grows in the wild. It was introduced into culture in the middle of the 19th century.

Amur grapes

This powerful fast-growing liana, which, having a support, can rise to a height of 30 meters and withstand frosts down to -40 ºС. Thanks to such qualities, in regions with a harsh climate, it can be grown without shelter near buildings of considerable height, on gazebos, arches and pergolas. It easily tolerates transplanting at any age, tolerates pruning well and reproduces by green cuttings. The Amur grapes look especially decorative in autumn, due to the bright color of the foliage.

The Amur grapes look especially decorative in autumn, due to the bright color of the foliage.

Loose bunches of this variety have the shape of a cylinder, sometimes converging on a cone. The black juicy berries of the Amur grape have a bluish waxy coating. They are covered with a dense skin, the flesh inside is greenish with an ordinary grape flavor.

With the use of wild Amur grapes (Vitis amurensis) - a winter-hardy similarity to Vitis vinifera (wine grapes) - many non-sheltering frost-resistant varieties and forms have been developed. The wild Amur progenitor of today's grapes had small and often rather sour fruits, the bred varieties have solid berries with an excellent taste.

The most successful in this direction was the work of the famous breeder Alexander Potapenko, who created such fruitful varieties resistant to severe frosts and fungal diseases as Odin (Amur breakthrough), Marinovsky, Amur triumph, Amethystovy, Neretinsky and others.

Grape variety Amethyst

The vigorous bushes of this super-early ripening table grape yield a harvest in late August or early September. Vines recover well in case of frost damage, maintaining productivity. Ripening of shoots is almost complete along the entire length. The variety propagates by cuttings that root perfectly.

The flowers are bisexual, all inflorescences are perfectly pollinated, therefore, rationing of the load on the bush is necessary.

Amethyst's bunches are cylindrical in shape and consist of elongated, wax-coated dark purple berries, sometimes with a purple tint. Peas are completely absent. Ripe bunches can remain on the bush for up to one and a half months, without losing either taste or appearance. Wasp is slightly damaged.

The taste of grapes is harmonious sweet and sour, aroma with barely perceptible nutmeg.

At the level of 2–2.5 points, the Amethystovy variety has resistance to fungal diseases, but experts advise to carry out preventive treatments without fail.

Amethyst's clusters are cylindrical in shape and consist of elongated, wax-coated dark purple berries, sometimes tinged with purple.

Grow grapes in Siberia without shelter

In addition to the named grapes, many other forms and varieties of it are grown in Siberia in a non-covering way:

1. Amursky-1 is a super early variety of tasty grapes created by F. Shatilov, ripens in 75–90 days at CAT * 1800–2000 ºС and has a frost resistance of -42 ºС. * SAT - the sum of active temperatures.
2. Amur black ultra-early - grapes of the same breeder, ripening in 85–90 days and resistant to frosts down to -36 ºС.
3. Bashkir early - a variety of super-early ripening (CAT 1800 ºС) L. Sterlyaeva (Bashkir NIIZiSPK), pollinating varieties are needed, since its flowers are only female.
4. Sharov's Riddle is a variety with well-maturing vines. Small clusters of its dark blue sweet berries have a delicate strawberry aroma. Frost resistance -32–34 ºС.
5. Zilga is a variety of breeder P. Sukatnieks from Latvia with bisexual flowers, blue berries with a fox scent are collected in small clusters up to 120 g, one of the earliest without shelter for the winter (CAT 2050–2100 ºС) in the northern regions.
6. Skuin 675 (Moscow Resistant) - unpretentious, fast-growing complex hybrid yields at CAT 2000 ºС, flowers are bisexual, small clusters up to 70 g, maximum 120 g, amber berries have a pineapple-nutmeg aroma.
7. Sharova black muscat - very hardy with dark blue berries. Their size is average, the taste is raisin. Wasps do not damage the berry or rot.
8. Muscat Katunsky is extremely resistant to diseases and frosts and with high maturing harvests.
9. Pink uncovering - table fruitful grapes with excellent taste, one of the best in terms of a range of qualities.
10. Taiga - was discovered in the Primorsky Territory (its southern part) in 1933. Bushes are powerful, fast-growing, with female flowers, clusters of 150-300 g, bluish dark cherry berries with a pleasant taste. They ripen in late summer or early September and contain 20% sugar. The variety tolerates thaws, drought, frost up to 42–44 ºС well.
11. Siberian Cheryomushka is the earliest winter-hardy grape grown by Siberians. It is similar to Isabella, but with the scent of bird cherry. After ripening, the bunches can not be removed from the vine for a long time, the berries only improve their taste.
12. Express is a universal super-early grape, ripening in Primorye in the first half of September, in loose clusters weighing up to 300 g, black sugar berries contain up to 26%. The express is inclined to overload the bush with bunches; their rationing is required in order to avoid falling berries and peas.

Varieties of American origin

Many grape varieties and forms have been bred from Fox grape, the "fox grape" that grows wild on the American continent. Its scientific name is Vitis labrusca (Vitis labrusca). All descendants of the Labrusca have a more or less characteristic taste and aroma, which we have received the name "isabella". Their berries often store even more sugars than table grapes. At the same time, the vines themselves are not demanding on care and soil, are fruitful, perfectly recover from damage, are not susceptible or are slightly susceptible to fungal diseases and are resistant to frosts down to -35 ºС.

Alpha grapes

Novice winegrowers can be advised to turn their attention to the Alpha variety, which appeared as a result of natural crossing of Labrusca with Vitis riparia (Vitis riparia). It ripens earlier than Isabella, although in appearance and taste it is very similar to her.

Alpha - fruitful, unpretentious, vigorous, ripening well, resistant to fungal diseases. The ripening period of these grapes is early average, and even winter frosts of 40 degrees are not terrible for the vines. Alpha blooms annually a week and a half earlier than varieties such as Muromets or Delight. Its clusters are of medium size, dense, and consist of round black berries covered with a waxy layer. They taste a little sour, so they are used to make juice.

Alpha - fruitful, unpretentious, vigorous, ripening well, resistant to fungal diseases

Gazebos or walls of houses overgrown with grapes of this variety look beautiful. Alpha is grown in the Baltics, Belarus, Primorye, Non-Black Earth Region, Siberia. It is one of the most commonly grown grape varieties in the northern viticulture regions.

Landau noir grape

Landau noir is one of the varieties bred by breeders in France and the United States. Vitis vinifera, vitis rupestris, vitis berlandieri, vitis aestivalis, vitis labrusca, vitis rupestris, vitis cinerea were involved in the creation of the genetic formula of this grape.

Lando Noir is a hardy, high-yielding grape that ripens quickly. The vines are vigorous, the shoots ripen well for winter, so the grapes can withstand frosts of thirty degrees well. The opening of the eyes, as a rule, occurs at a time when the return frosts have already passed. Such features of the variety make it possible to grow Lando Noir in Siberia.

Landau noir is one of the varieties bred by breeders in France and the United States

Small, loose bunches of this grape consist of round blue berries. Their size is average. They make red wine with good taste and good quality.

Somerset Seedlis

Elmer Swenson's raisin 'grape can be recommended for uncovered cultivation. Its resistance to frost is kept within the range of -30–34 ºС, and the ripening period is one of the earliest.

Elmer Swenson's raisin 'grape can be recommended for uncovered cultivation.

Somerset seedlings have medium vigor. Bunches are small or medium in size, consisting of medium-sized pink berries. They taste good. Somerset seedlings are not very productive, but the taste is excellent. You can eat grapes of this variety as soon as it turns pink, usually this happens already in August, but remaining on the vine, the berries become sweeter as they ripen, their aroma is more clearly complemented by strawberry notes.

Early grapes in Siberia

The climate of Siberia makes it possible to grow grapes with a very short ripening period of berries, that is, only super early, early, ripening in no more than 120 days. Even medium-early varieties with a ripening period of 125–130 days are rarely grown by Siberians.

Many of the early ripening varieties have already been listed above, but in each specific locality and even in a certain area, the grower decides whether this particular grape variety can be grown in an uncovered form or whether it still needs to be protected from frost for the winter.

Growing grapes in Krasnoyarsk

Varietal variety of grapes in Siberia

Using the grape shelter for the winter, some Siberians manage to grow a variety of grape varieties. Among them are even those that are bred by breeders and are recommended for more southern regions. But widespread are varieties, the ripening period of which is close to one hundred days. We will tell you more about some of them - the most popular among Siberian winegrowers.

Solovyova-58

Grapes bred in Ukraine by N. Solovyov can now be found in garden plots from the Baltic to Siberia. It is one of the earliest, for ripening it needs the sum of active temperatures to be 2200 ºС. It has bisexual flowers, gives small loose clusters weighing from 100 to 300 grams, consisting of light round berries with orange specks weighing 2–4 grams. The taste of Solovyov-58 grapes is pleasant, it combines nutmeg and strawberries. It perfectly resists diseases, but it can withstand frosts only up to -32 ºС, therefore, in Siberia, it is sheltered for the winter.

Grapes bred in Ukraine by N. Soloviev

Beauty of the North (Olga)

The table grape Krasa Severa has vigorous bushes that ripen well and withstand frosts down to -25 ºС, but in Siberia it is sheltered for the winter. But the ripening period of berries, which is 110 days, and CAT 2200 ºС are quite consistent with the climatic conditions of the region. An average bunch of this variety can weigh 250 g, a large one - up to 500 g. The bunches are loose, branchy. Five- or six-gram white berries take on a pinkish tan only in the sun. Inside them, under a thin skin, juicy pulp with a pleasant taste. The tasters gave it 8 points. Sugar content - 16-17%, acid - 5.4 g / l. The bunches can be successfully transported and stored for a long time, some - until the New Year holidays. The variety is relatively resistant to berry cracking and gray mold disease, but susceptible to mildew and mildew.

Table grapes Krasa Severa has vigorous bushes that ripen well and withstand frosts down to -25 ºС

Muromets

The table variety Muromets, which ripens in 110 days, is grown by many Siberian gardeners. It can be eaten fresh or dried over raisins. The low frost resistance of Muromets for Siberia (up to -26) ºС determines the covering method of growing this variety.Powerful productive bushes of this grape resist mildew well, but are susceptible to gray rot and oidimum. Shoots ripen by winter for almost the entire length of the growth.

Flowers of Murom are bisexual. Cooling during the flowering of grapes, as well as overloading the bush, lead to peas - the appearance of a large number of small berries. Large brushes weighing up to 0.4 kg have a conical shape and medium density. Quite large oval berries of a dark purple color are covered with a bloom of wax. Their flesh is dense, crispy. It accumulates up to 17.8% sugar and a little more than 4 g / l of acid.

With prolonged rains, the berries may crack. In this case, even unripe grapes are removed and sent to homemade preparations (compotes, jam, and the like).

The table variety Muromets, which ripens in 110 days, is grown by many Siberian gardeners.

Very early red nutmeg

By the speed of ripening of berries of 95-100 days, this variety is ideal for Siberian conditions, but its frost resistance reaches only -23 ºС, therefore it is grown only by covering it for the winter.

The average size of bunches of this variety ranges from 300-600 grams. They are moderately dense or somewhat loose. Round red berries with a diameter of 1.8 cm and weighing up to 5 grams become almost purple when ripe. With the age of the bush, the bunches and berries also become larger.

The crunchy pulp of the grapes has a bright nutmeg taste and aroma. Grapes gains sugar up to 18%, acids have up to 7 g / l. The tasters gave 7.7 points to the fresh berries of this nutmeg. Wasps do not damage berries. The crop tolerates transportation very well.

Red nutmeg is resistant to gray mold, but to false (mildew) and powdery mildew (oidimum) the resistance is average.

By the speed of ripening of berries in 95-100 days, this variety is ideal for the conditions of Siberia

Rusven

The universal variety Rusven was bred in cooperation between Russian and Hungarian breeders, and therefore received such a name. The bushes are characterized by medium to high vigor. Although its shoots ripen well, and the harvest ripens in 115 days, Rusven can withstand frosts only up to -27 ºС, therefore it is cultivated in Siberia as a covering.

The bunches form rather large, their average weight ranges from 350-550 grams, but the maximum can be up to a kilogram. Large round berries, more than 2 cm in diameter, weigh an average of 5-6 grams. Ripe Rusven berries are covered with a matte crust with light red veins. They taste good, and their nutmeg aroma is complemented by sage notes. The sugar content in them is 20%, and the acid content is 7-9 g / l.

Rusven variety is resistant to fungal diseases. With heavy rains or excessive watering, its grapes are prone to cracking. They don't like transportation either. Grapes also need protection from wasps with special nets or insecticides.

The universal variety Rusven was developed in cooperation between Russian and Hungarian breeders.

Late grape varieties in Siberia

In the Siberian region, the cultivation of grape varieties with long ripening periods is extremely difficult due to the peculiarities of the local climate. Even in the most favorable year, the harvest will most likely not have time to ripen, and there is no need to talk about the ripening of the wood and the readiness of the bush for winter with severe frosts. They are not common in the culture of Siberian viticulture.

Reviews of Siberian winegrowers

Siberian grapes grown in the open field, and not in a greenhouse, is no longer a fairy tale, but a reality. Having chosen the right grape varieties for his plot, the gardener can take fresh produce for a month and a half - from mid-August to the end of September, and if it is stored correctly until the spring of next year, he can feast on grape berries.

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Surprisingly, the harsh climate of Siberia does not prevent summer residents from successfully growing grapes near their homes or summer cottages. The history of this culture has more than fifty years of cultivation and planting of various grape varieties. It was Stalin who was considered a great connoisseur of wine. He also began to promote cultures that love warmth to Siberia, to the north. Despite the fact that this culture is not so whimsical in its habitat, there was a hard work of breeders. They tried to create the most frost-resistant grape variety, which would easily take root in the difficult conditions of the northern side of its habitat.

The harsh climate of Siberia does not prevent summer residents from successfully growing grapes

Difficult climatic conditions

In the center of Russia, climatic conditions are quite specific. Strong wind currents, long winters, low climate temperatures, short summers, rather shorten the seasonal growing season of the plant. But there were still successes. Vineyards took root in Altai and during this period they made the first batch of test wine from seven different grape varieties. However, not everything went on so wonderfully. Brezhnev decided to stop the tale. An order was given to uproot all vineyards in that area. And the flourishing period of Siberian selection has stopped. It would seem that all progress was destroyed in the very dawn. But the further growth of the vine continued with the help of amateurs of this business. Some of them even opened their schools and institutes of viticulture in order to pass on the accumulated experience to others. Thanks to them, today any Siberian summer resident is able to provide himself with grapes throughout the year.

Varieties of varieties

Today, any Siberian summer resident is able to provide himself with grapes throughout the year.

All kinds of varieties are about seventy. The problem is that they are not all fruitful in this area. The secret is to pick early grape varieties for planting for such a short summer.

For table grapes, it is important that they can be consumed. For the technical one needs its own proportions to make wine. In grapes, the most important characteristic is the sum of active temperatures. Expensive grape varieties, which used to grow only on the southern side, now ripen quietly in the northern latitudes. This is achieved through the greenhouse effect.

Newer varieties are considered for Siberia;

• The Arcadia variety is a very large, tasty berry;
• Cardinal Lux variety - appreciated for its delicate nutmeg taste;
• The Fairy variety is a large, crispy berry.

At present, a massive supply of planting material from southern breeders is being made to Altai. Such grapes have elegant clusters, mostly large-fruited, at the same time, they are not reliable for the northern regions. The quality of ripening of shoots on the vine sharply decreases in such varieties. This leads to a decrease in the yield. It is worth choosing varieties of this plant that are resistant to frost.

Sleep cleaning

At the beginning of spring, when the snow has melted and the sun has warmed, the vineyard is approaching a new cycle of its development. Armed with a shovel with a short handle, we approach the bush and remove the top layer of soil. Carefully, without damaging the grapes themselves, we fold the top soil next to the hole in which the bush is planted.

We remove the coating up to a maximum of fifteen centimeters. We are talking only about cultivated varieties of the bush, since winter-resistant varieties do not require earthen shelter. And sometimes there should not be a tissue shelter on the pit in which the rhizome hibernated. Otherwise, steaming of the roots will occur.

Change from cold to warm

The ground is already warm and it will be easy and careful to move away. Soils in Altai are dark chernozem. At this time, the vines are still wet and cold.Keeping it under cover at this time is dangerous because it can turn your eyes on. This reduces the yield of the entire bush. Remains literally up to five centimeters of soil. Night frosts are possible and it is not advisable to immediately open the grooves. Everything should be gradual. This will make an excellent soil for drying your bushes. Examine the bush for the consequences of overwintering. The eyes should be free of blackening, the base is dry without decaying areas. Opening must be done carefully so as not to damage the vine. It is best to carry out this in the morning, so that the plant would be under the sun all day and dry out perfectly.

Then treat the trunk with a solution from small parasites and diseases. Everything needs to be done in one day. We get rid of trenches from excess soil.

The next step will be to spray all branches, vines and trenches with fungicide solutions. This is a fairly economical option, but it will keep your vine bushes great. It is better to process an already prepared bush. This technique will help replace summer treatments with autumn and spring treatments.

Planting grapes

The ideal period for planting grapes is the end of May and all of June. Winter-resistant varieties will survive planting successfully in autumn.

The characteristics of each individual variety play an important role in whether it will take root on Siberian soil or not. The vine planting trench line must be formed starting in the north and advancing to the south.

Winter-resistant varieties will survive planting successfully in autumn.

A sufficiently deep hole is dug out and gets rid of weeds and foreign objects completely. Filled with fertilizer. It is optimal if it is a mixture of several types of funds. Will serve to balance the growth of such complementary foods, both the trunk and the fruits in the future.

1. Manure (preferably the one that has already overrun) - 0.5 or 1 bucket. Depends on the size of the hole;
2. Phosphate - 300 grams;
3. Ash - half a glass.

Directly the pits into which the landing is made are pulled out at the bottom of this hole. This system will help break off mature bushes from strong winds and other weather conditions. Moisture will linger longer near the roots.

The temperature of the earth at this moment should exceed 15 degrees Celsius. The lowest roots must be cut, they only interfere with the plant. Lower the seedling into the hole, so that the crown remains all at the top.

The shoot with its height should not exceed 15 centimeters in height. On cold days, shoots are wrapped in foil or plastic. On hot and very warm days, you need to ventilate the bushes. The shelter is removed completely with the departure of the night cold.

In order to strengthen the bush, a support must be dug into the ground next to it. The support is adjusted as the bush grows, it is best to use metal for this. Since a tree after a long stay in the ground can rot and break at the moment when there are already weighty fruits. So you can break the vine and damage the plant during the period of fruiting and growth.

Whimsical vine

No other plants should be planted close to the vine planting. An adult bush can simply drown out extraneous plantings with its foliage. It can also hurt itself. Pruning leaves on time is essential and beneficial for the plant. It is worth leaving more than three leaves on one vine. Heavy pruning will harm the future harvest due to the fact that oxygen enters the plant through the leaves. At the same time, they can take on all the nutrients without leaving anything to the fruit. In some cases, weak vines dry up from the bush along with the already formed inflorescences. This harms the amount of the future harvest.

After removing all the debris, you do not need to loosen the soil. It is worth alternating the application of organic and inorganic fertilizers.

Grape varieties for the Siberian region

Almost all grape varieties thrive in any climate. The emphasis must be made on types that are resistant to stress.

Almost all grape varieties thrive in any climate.

• Cheburashka variety - low bushes take root well in the most unsuitable soil for grapes. Although for the northern part they need more time to ripen the fruits, the taste becomes better if it is not immediately removed from the vine. Taste qualities are revealed if the fruits are "insisted".
• Tukai variety - very early ripening of fruits can cause a lot of trouble. Since they ripen during nighttime and periodically daytime cold snaps. It is necessary to provide warmth with shelters. Berries are light in color with a nutmeg flavor. Will not leave indifferent true connoisseurs of grape berries.
• Rusven variety - has a high yield. The bunches exceed 500 grams in weight. The berries are pink in color with a light sage scent, which is a great bait for wasps and other insects. When planting it, be prepared for constant attacks of ants. The base for protection must be wrapped in paper. Large enough bushes grow on the ground.
• Variety Solovyova-58 - resembles the previous variety, but with a different color of berries. Large and fleshy fruits consist of small clusters up to two hundred grams in volume. The bush does not grow much, keeps a neat shape without pruning. Does not have any foreign smell and does not shade other plants planted nearby.
• Variety Cheryomushka (Siberian) - bred in Siberia. The sweet and small berries taste and smell like bird cherry. Bushes grow strongly. The culture is not designed for high frosts. Heat-loving culture.

Correct fit

You can either buy seedlings or prepare them yourself. It is best to plant two-year-old seedlings with a mature vine. Such seedlings winter better, and you will get the harvest a year earlier. But if, for some reason, you purchased a one-year-old seedling (there was no variety you needed, or for reasons of economy), we transplant it into a large bowl. If it is a bucket, provide a drainage base. Volume 3-5 liters.

Normal handling, as with houseplants. We fall asleep a little higher than the seedling was sitting before. Water after planting. At first, if frost is possible, keep in the greenhouse. Expose to hardening later. In the future, the seedling should grow in direct sun with occasional but regular watering next to the support. Form into one stem, sometimes in two, if the seedling grows vigorously. Tie to a support in this pot until next spring.

You can also plant an annual seedling in the ground. We are watching its development. If the seedling grows normally and by the fall the vine has grown by more than 80 centimeters, and the lower part of the vine has turned brown with ripe eyes, then it can be left in the ground. If the seedling is green by autumn, it must be dug up and transplanted into a pot until next year.

Planting store-bought seedlings

For them, a trench is dug, in which the base is made of drainage. The landing pit is dug 60 centimeters deep. Digging a little shallower, since the drainage has already been laid. Along the way, we select weeds, if they come across. We fill the hole with loose, fertile soil with humus, not tamping a lot. The landing pit is ready and we proceed directly to planting.

The seedling can be planted at an angle

We take out the seedling from the container in which it is located. He already has a formed root system. We put him in a hole. The pit is purposefully made slightly below the level to fill up a part of the matured vine. That is, to the base of the green shoots. The seedling can be planted at an angle. We tamp the fertile soil. From above, you can fill it with earth from the pit. We make a planting hole for watering. When watering for the first time, pour out 20-30 liters of water. The seedling can be left lying on the floor, as it still needs to be covered. Don't be afraid to water abundantly. This will help the grapes grow while they are covered. After watering, the earth will settle down a little and the hole can be mulched.To prevent the earth from cracking, and to add a level to the trench. As for further watering - 4-5 times is enough during the growing season. An adult bush will need 4 buckets of water to soak 60 centimeters of soil down.

Formation of the northern vine

It is necessary to break out excess shoots on one formed vine. Separate strong shoots on the sleeves of the bush. It is better to dig a small hole in the first two years, in which the necessary shoots will grow. If you have a two-plane trellis, you need 4 shoots. Leave the shoots with a margin, in case the left ones accidentally break off. The biggest mistake is tying up as soon as the buds open. When blooming, break out the buds from the very bottom to the top of the grape vine.

No wounds remain. It is very important that the lower kidney from which the replacement bitches will be formed. We break out the rest.

Leave two kidneys in reserve. In the future, you will not need so many shoots. So thin out the weakest shoots. Look where there is no wound. If you can see that the bud is growing perpendicularly, bend the shoots to the other side. It will be easier to cover a whole bush for the winter. Plan the knots back in the fall. This will help to grow better quality shoots nowadays. Grapes have no periodicity in fruiting. Don't be afraid to do things differently the first time.

Broken shoots in a harsh climate

When the shoots on the bushes grow up, it is necessary to make a fragment of the bush. Up to 90 pieces of shoots can frolic on one bush. If you leave it not broken off, then you get a thickened low-yielding bush. We break off green shoots in order to leave the maximum number of high-quality shoots (from twenty-five to thirty pieces). With the second fragment, watch the growth of young shoots. It is better to start tying them up during this period.

For a garter it is recommended:

• Aluminum wire.

Easy-to-use material, also for tying the vine itself. We wrap one end of the wire around the base and once around the shoot. Do not pinch the plant.

• The second garter material is PVC cambric.

This is a reusable material that will serve you more than five years with active use. We wrap it twice around the wire and tie the shoot to the wire in two knots. Do not press or pinch the shoots.

When the shoots on the bushes grow up, it is necessary to make a fragment of the bush

At the same time, you can carry out the second wreck with a double. We remove weak shoots. We remove shoots on perennial wood. Work on your bushes, keep the foliage off and you will enjoy a lot of your harvest.

Rationing of bunches

Try to ration your crop by removing excess bunches. This is necessary so that the berries become larger, ripen faster and become sweeter. If you leave everything that is tied to the vine, you can spoil the quality of the harvest of the entire bush. One shoot can feed up to 500 grams of berries. If you leave more, then the growth of the berries will stop, and they will be sour fruits.

Consider the example of the Laura variety. Average size and weight of a brush is 600-700 grams. In order to feed such an amount, the bush must grow twice as much foliage. First of all, this is achieved by the required amount of fertilizer that you apply when feeding. The required amount of watering. The required number of green operations performed.

Adds leaves to the shoot if you leave the lower leaves on the vine. They will mature and increase the amount of nutrients. Weak shoots draw out everything useful from the vine, they must be removed. Novice growers should leave one bunch per branch. Don't think of leaving more if you don't have drip and groundwater irrigation. These are pipes under the bush that deliver water and fertilizer.

If you have a variety with large enough bunches, leave two weak shoots.Don't put too much stress on your bush.

In order to understand which varieties will take root and which will not, we have developed variety testing plots. In difficult conditions for different varieties of heat-loving culture, vineyards are made and the development of vines is monitored. There are main vines and vines that do not take root. They are replaced with new ones. If the summer is rather cold, they are covered by hand. Especially on cold nights, the vineyard and rhizomes are covered.

Summer pruning of a grape bush

Chasing is the pruning of shoots. Differing in pinching only the tops of the shoots, the embossing shortens the entire length. From the point of view of productivity, this is a harmful procedure. This weakens the bush and stimulates the growth of additional shoots in the leaf axils. On the shoots, you can remove all unnecessary and useless shoots in order to increase the number of useful leaves. Sometimes chasing in the summer is not recommended.

On the shoots, you can remove all unnecessary and useless shoots in order to increase the number of useful leaves

You can lay the shoots in parallel, and not up. Everything on the trellis should be in the same plane. Adjust the height of the trellis for your own convenience. So that you can work without climbing an elevation. If you want to trim, slightly increase the height of your trellis. If the height is limited, you need to put the shoots somewhere, otherwise the leaves will rot and hurt. Let's say we lay them along the wire. There will be even more of them and you will have to superimpose them on top of each other. Ultimately, the lower leaves will not be illuminated. This is fraught with the fact that there will be less harvest in the future. There is no limit in the length of the shoots, they will stretch as long as possible. If loaded with crops, the vines can break.

If the average density is 10 shoots per running meter, then by the end there will be 50 of them. It will be completely impossible to work, and the bush will begin to ache. He will not be able to feed that much crop.

Disease protection

Recently, most drugs have not helped. If, after spraying, the grapes continue to hurt, this means that the drug is aimed at protection, not treatment.

For example, Topaz against powdery mildew. When you see that the leaves are covered with disease and you spray with this drug, then plaque is removed right before your eyes.

It is best to apply the drug before infection. Before budding on the grapes, a blue spraying must be done. This will increase resistance to morning frost.

The next spraying is after the appearance of 4 leaves. It is better to spray it with anti-idium, but it is not worth it with sulfur. Since the temperature is still low, such drugs will not work.

If you have a tick, then its signs will appear immediately. Here you can apply the drug 30-D and remove the affected leaves from the bush.

When the temperature has risen over 20 degrees, spray with mildew. Choose drugs of systemic rather than contact action. This increases the chances of winning the fight against the parasite.

Before flowering, it is desirable to treat against all diseases. First of all, against those that have an increased contaminated background in your area and the location of the vineyards.

After flowering, repeat all processing procedures. Then, a month later, before ripening the berries, process again. You can use the dose of the drug in half of that indicated on the drug package.

There are many fakes of expensive drugs. Be careful when choosing and trust only previously proven products.

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Grape bushes are common in hot regions. But today in Siberia there are grapes, the varieties of which were specially developed by breeders. Increasingly, in summer cottages and in gardens, you can find bushes of this sweet berry.

general information

The grapes resemble vines

Grapes are a perennial plant that belongs to the grape family. Its branches twist like vines.

Antennae grow on the stems, thanks to which they cling to the supports and braid them, stretching upwards.

On the branches, medium or large leaves of an oval shape, carved, five-lobed, with jagged edges are not densely located. They are painted mainly green or dark green, but varieties with other leaf colors are also found.

The flowers are small, pale yellow or greenish, collected in a loose brush or panicle. In place of flowers, fruits are formed in the form of berries, which have an oval or oval-oblong shape. When ripe, a dense or loose bunch is formed. The fruits are edible, the pulp and taste of the berries depends on the variety.

Varieties

The grape has a large number of varieties and hybrids for cultivation in regions with constantly high temperatures. For the cultivation of this plant in the Siberian region, about 80 varieties were bred.

Solovyova 58

Grapes can be eaten

This variety can be classified as a canteen. The bunches are small, the berries are oval in shape, they are painted white with a golden tint. The fruits ripen early. The root system is strong, the bush tolerates frost well. Berries are eaten raw.

Memory of Dombkovskaya

The grape bushes of this variety are strong, vigorous, the vines are thick, strong. The leaves are large, carved, located on long petioles, painted in a dark green tone. Fruits - large berries, colored black, collected in large bunches. Full ripening occurs at the beginning of September. The variety tolerates frost well and is highly resistant to fungal diseases.

Katyr

Full ripening of the fruits of this variety occurs in early September, but the bunches can remain on the vine for some time. At the same time, the berries do not burst and do not lose their taste. The variety has a high yield and frost resistance. The berries are oval, medium-sized, dark blue, almost black in color, have a pleasant taste. The bush is resistant to fungal diseases.

Sharov's riddle

This is an early variety; fruit ripening in Siberia occurs at the end of August. The variety is highly resistant to frost, bred specifically for growing in cold regions.

It is worth choosing grapes that are resistant to frost

The bunches are medium in size, the berries are round, dark blue when ripe. The skin on the berries is dense, juicy and aromatic, the pulp with a pleasant taste. After cutting, a fresh bunch can be stored in a cool place for a long time.

Beauty of the North

It belongs to the early varieties. The bunches ripen large, the weight of one can reach up to 250 grams. The berries are large, white and pink. The skin on the berries is thin, but it is durable, so when ripe, the berries do not crack. The bushes are strong and highly frost-resistant.

Homeland

The bushes of this variety are large, strong and branched. The yield is high. Full ripening occurs in early September or late August, depending on the weather conditions of the season. The clusters are small and loose. The berries are round, dark blue or black when ripe. The pulp is sweet, aromatic, with a pleasant aftertaste. The variety is frost-resistant.

Rusball

The variety is early maturing. Bunches in a mature state weigh in the range of 400-600 grams, sometimes up to 1.5 kg. The berries are medium in size, oval in shape, sweet in taste, and contain no seeds.

Some grape varieties are resistant to various pests

Every year in the spring, it is recommended to cut off excess inflorescences, since the variety is high-yielding and there may be too many ovaries, which will lead to incomplete or untimely ripening and weakening of the bush. It tolerates frosts down to -25 degrees. The variety is resistant to various diseases.

Victoria

The berries ripen early, the clusters are of medium density and can weigh up to 700 grams. The berries are oval, oblong, and large in size. Colored in a mature state in a reddish-crimson tone. The pulp is sweet with a pleasant aftertaste. The bunches are beautiful. The bush is strong, the branches are dense.

Withstands frosts down to -27 degrees. High resistance to disease.

Laura

The variety is super early, the fruits ripen in the month of August. The bunches are large, heavy, and can weigh up to 1.5 kg or more. They have medium density and are well transported. The berries are large, oval in shape, in a mature state they are painted in a white tone with a slight yellowish bloom. The variety is suitable for growing in cold regions, tolerates frosts down to -23 degrees and is resistant to various diseases.

Rusven

Fruits ripen early, full filling of bunches occurs at the end of summer. The berries are large, rounded, colored in a greenish-pink or pale red tone. The bunches are large, medium density, heavy, weighing up to 600 grams. The berries are sweet, have a pleasant aftertaste and nutmeg aroma.

The bushes are strong, tolerate frost well down to -25 degrees, and are resistant to diseases.

Some bushes can withstand -25 degrees of frost

Timur

Refers to early maturing varieties. The bunches are large, heavy, up to 600 grams, loose. The berries are oval, oblong, taper towards the bottom, large, painted in white or white-green tone. They have a pleasant sweet taste, the pulp is juicy. It tolerates frosts down to -25 degrees and is resistant to many diseases.

Codryanka

The fruits ripen in late August or early September. The bunches are large, heavy, their weight can reach up to 1 kg. The berries are very large, when ripe, they are colored in a dark purple tone, have an oval shape. The pulp is crispy, juicy, dense, with a pleasant aftertaste. The bushes are frost-resistant and high-yielding.

Care and reproduction

To grow grapes in a cold region, you need to choose the right variety for planting. It is also necessary to follow the rules for caring for such bushes.

Care

One of the most important points for good growth and development of a grape bush is the right location. It should be well lit by the sun and sheltered from strong winds and drafts.

In winter, the grapes should be well covered with snow.

In winter, the bushes should be well covered with snow, and in the spring months, the melt water should easily leave. For this, places on the south side of buildings or fences are well suited.

Gardeners who have been growing grapes in Siberia for several years recommend mulching the soil under the bush with dark material so that it is warmed up by the sun more.

When planting several bushes, the distance between the plants must be observed. The branches must receive enough sun.

With a strong intertwining of vines, a strong shadow is formed from the foliage, which significantly delays the ripening of fruits and vines, and can also cause diseases. During the summer, it is necessary to control the intertwining of branches and, if necessary, trim and remove excess ones.

Due to the high content of minerals and trace elements in the soil, grapes are saturated with various vitamins and nutrients. For a year, the bush devastates the soil around it, so it is recommended to feed the plants every spring.

The first application of additional feeding occurs in early spring, 3 weeks before the beginning of flowering.

This will greatly increase the vigor and yield of the bush.It is necessary to use complex fertilizers that are intended for fruit and berry crops. Re-feeding is done 3 weeks after flowering. The same drugs are used. Organic and mineral fertilizers well diluted with water are also applied under the bush.

Mineral fertilizers are very good for grapes

To protect grape bushes from diseases, it is recommended to treat the leaves and vines with special preparations. This operation is carried out before flowering, since all the ingredients have chemical constituents and have a bad effect on the fruits.

Preparing for winter

Despite the fact that breeders have developed frost-resistant varieties for growing grapes in Siberia, it is recommended to cover the vine and roots for the winter. Routine dripping, as in warmer regions, may be insufficient and freeze vines and buds. Therefore, it is recommended to use additional cover.

For this, the grapes are pruned, leaving the main vines. On both sides of the bush, trenches are pulled out, 20-30 cm deep, and prepared branches are laid in them, securing them with arcs or boards. From above they are covered with foil and sprinkled with sawdust, peat, spruce branches or grass for 25-30 cm. You can also put bags of straw.

For young bushes, whose age has not yet reached three years, such a shelter is recommended to be made much earlier than adult bushes. This is done before frost and harder cover.

In such shelters, mice are often found, which can significantly harm the bushes. Experienced gardeners recommend putting a piece of burnt felt or wool in the interlayer. This smell will scare away rodents and keep the vine intact.

Planting grapes

When planting grapes, you need to put additional drainage in the hole

Having chosen a place, it is necessary to prepare a hole for planting a bush. To do this, a meter wide recess is dug, at the bottom of which gravel is laid out for additional drainage. On top of the gravel, so that the young bush has enough nutrition, it is recommended to put compost or humus.

The soil from the pit is mixed with sand and humus and is poured back, leaving a depression over the entire area and part of the land. A seedling is placed in the recess, the roots are straightened and sprinkled with the remaining earth, then trampled. After that, the seedling must be well watered.

Pruning grapes

Unlike regions with warm, long autumn, in Siberia, pruning of grape bushes is carried out much earlier. The first stage of pruning is carried out after harvesting, this falls on the end of August - beginning of September. This removes all thin, painful, old and damaged branches.

Only those vines should remain that are mature and strong enough to serve as a substitute.

The second stage is recommended to be carried out just before the shelter of the vine for the winter. After the first pruning, the bush will gain enough strength and nutrients for a good wintering. This pruning is not much different from the same process in warm regions. It is necessary to leave branches for the fruit link and for development.

Reproduction

Reproduction in cold regions takes place in almost the same stages as in sunny warm places. This process is carried out mainly in two ways: cuttings and layering.

Reproduction can be carried out by cuttings

Cuttings

For grafting, the vine is cut during the second pruning. For this, strong, ripe vines are used. One cutting should contain 3-4 healthy, strong buds. The finished material is wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a cool, dark place - for example, in the basement or the vegetable section of the refrigerator.

The fabric should be moistened periodically. The rooting process of cuttings is carried out a little later than usual. This is due to the fact that in cold regions the soil warms up much later, therefore, young plants are planted in late May or early June.

In late February or early March, cuttings are taken out of storage.Before examination, they must be soaked in water so that they collect enough moisture within 6-12 hours. After each branch is examined for suitability, for this, 0.5-1 cm is cut from one side.

If the cut is green, the cutting is suitable for rooting. If there are brown spots, discard the branch.

Cuttings on one side are placed in a stimulating solution for 3-4 hours. After that, they are each individually wrapped in a damp cloth, on top of which a bag is put on and laid out on the windowsill with the upper side to the window, and the lower side to the battery.

The fabric is constantly moisturized. After 7-10 days, the buds will begin to develop, this is a sign that the roots are beginning to sprout. After another 3-4 days, each stalk is separately planted in a container with a prepared loose and fertile substrate for further rooting.

When breeding with layering, you must use a strong vine.

The containers are placed in a warm and well-lit room.

Reproduction by layering

For reproduction by layering, a well-developed, strong vine is chosen. At a short distance from the bush, a recess is made in which the branch is strengthened, without separating it from the main bush, but sprinkled with earth on top.

This process is recommended in the second half of summer, when a sufficiently strong branch can be selected. Rooting takes place the next year, and the young plant can be cut off from the mother bush.

It is possible to transplant a young bush only after a year, when the root system gains strength and gets stronger. For the winter period, the dug-in branch is insulated in the same way as young bushes. The advantage of this method is that the bushes begin to bear fruit much earlier than those bushes that were obtained by cuttings.

Diseases and pests

Grapes are susceptible to a variety of diseases. Despite the fact that many bushes are bred with resistance to ailments, with improper care or untimely treatment, the plant can get sick. The main enemies of grapes are gray rot, powdery mildew and mildew.

When the first signs appear, it is recommended to treat with special preparations, which can be purchased at gardening stores. It is also recommended to apply slug and caterpillar repellent to the bushes.

Application

You can make juice from grapes

The main use of grapes is its use in food and in the manufacture of wine and grape juice. The pulp and juice of grapes are rich in various vitamins, minerals and nutrients. They improve blood circulation, strengthen immunity, and have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

In cosmetology, grapes are also used: its seeds are of great value. From them, oil is extracted, which is used in creams and tonics. Scrubs and peels are made from crushed seeds. During the production of cosmetic products, extracts and extracts are made from grapes and grape seeds.

Also, special spa resorts are being opened, in which the main medicinal raw materials are the seeds and fruits of grapes. Grape masks, baths with grape seed extracts, walks in the vineyards - all this has an invaluable effect on health and is gaining popularity every year.

By watching the video, you will learn how to properly reproduce grapes.

Grapes are a healthy nutritious product that has a beneficial effect on the human body. Following simple care rules, this plant can be grown even in cold regions.

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Grape

How to grow grapes in Siberia, because the local conditions seem unsuitable for the cultivation of this culture? Short short summers with unstable weather, long winters with severe frosts, strong winds - it would seem that there is no worse place for southern culture. But grapes in Siberia ripen very well, you just need to know the correct agricultural technology for the local conditions.

Features of the Siberian climate

Grapes are thermophilic, hygrophilous, but most of all they do not like sudden daily temperature changes. Many southern varieties, faced with the harsh realities of the Siberian climate, lag behind in development, are susceptible to disease, mature poorly, and grow little timber. This is even despite the fact that the sum of summer temperatures in the south of the Altai Territory may slightly differ from the Krasnodar Territory, where they come from.

But at the same time, Siberian conditions are more favorable for viticulture in terms of diseases and pests of grapes. The dangerous phylloxera aphid is not here. Downy mildew - mildew is also not very common in the Siberian region.

Video about growing grapes in Siberia

Variety selection plays a key role in Siberian viticulture.

With a short summer and a long winter, only early varieties, partially mid-ripening, are capable of yielding here, in the presence of a spring film shelter. It is also highly advisable to buy grafted seedlings. The stock is best served by hardy North American varieties or Far Eastern wild grapes. Of course, you can graft yourself, but for beginners it is better to get by with the purchase of already grafted plants.

The best grape varieties for Siberia

Among the varieties suitable for Siberian conditions there are many local ones, bred by breeders or simply amateur gardeners. Many European, as well as some southern varieties are suitable for growing in Siberia.

In the photo, the grape variety "Tukai"

Hybrids of early maturation of Siberian selection: Siberian cheremushka, Tomich, Sharov's selection - Zagadka, Muscat, Buratino. Mid-season varieties: Katyr, Srostinsky, Seyanets Sharova. Mid-season varieties: Obskoy, Dubinushka, Biysk-2. Of the non-Siberian varieties, Vostorg, Aleshenkin, Tukai are worthy of attention. Pamyat Dombkovskaya is very popular among the early varieties among Siberians; it is a small berry seedless variety of early ripening, with increased winter hardiness. Of the southern, very tasty grape varieties, Cardinal and Husayne ripen here. However, it is advisable to grow these varieties together with additional film cover in spring / autumn, due to the late maturity.

The most hardy, and therefore suitable for the Siberian climate, are varieties of American selection: Isabella and Lydia. They winter excellently with minimal shelter, in some places they can not even be removed under the snow, leaving them on trellises, gazebos. They are very fruitful, but the taste of the berries is noticeably inferior in comparison with other cultivated varieties. Best suited for winemaking.

Planting and leaving

Growing grapes in Siberia requires deep pits or trenches, about a meter deep. Gravel or other drainage is poured down, a layer of compost or fresh humus is laid. The excavated earth is mixed with sand, humus, after which it is poured back. You need to remove some of the soil in order for the plant to grow in a small ditch. So later it will be more convenient to cover the plants. Not completely filling the hole, we leave a mound of soil, placing a seedling on top of it, spreading the roots along the mound. Gently sprinkle the roots of the seedling from all sides. After which it is necessary to water well.

Photo of a pit for planting grapes

As a more labor-intensive, but effective technique, pipe cuttings can be digged vertically into trenches or pits to provide water and air access to the roots. A piece of slate is placed on the bottom of the pit, the lower end of the pipe is installed, the hole is sprinkled with drainage, and filled with soil mixture from the pit. The grapes are planted as described above. Place the pipe on the north side and a little further from the seedling. Do not cut the pipe too high that sticks out. This will allow more cold air to reach the roots. Greater soil freezing. The upper end of the pipe should be under winter shelter, that is, rise above the level of the grape trench no more than twenty centimeters.

Pruning

Siberian autumn is shorter than European autumn, so pruning here is different from southern pruning. First, we cut the vine not in one, but in two times. The first pruning should be done between mid-August and late September, when the crop is harvested, but there are still green leaves. The fruiting vine, all thin, weak shoots, old branches, areas of the bush damaged by diseases or frosts are removed. The shoots, vines, and branches participating in the replacement remain.

Pruning of grapes for the next growing season is carried out immediately before the winter shelter. The later you trim the bush, the better. The vineyard will store the maximum possible amount of nutrients.

In the photo, pruning grapes

Leaving the second stage of autumn pruning until spring is not recommended, since due to the abundant spring sap flow, budding, flowering, fruiting are delayed for two to three weeks, which is extremely undesirable for the conditions of a short Siberian summer.

The pruning technique for Siberian grapes is practically the same as for other climatic conditions. The main operation should be the creation of a fruit link, otherwise referred to as a knot of replacement. Two strong vines growing side by side, ripe from green shoots, are selected. Closer to the roots, the vine is cut shortly into two or three buds, the upper one is longer, leaving from ten to twenty buds.

The next year, one of them bears powerful green shoots, the other bears the harvest. In the fall, when the bunches are collected, the long vine, along with all the shoots, is cut to the very base. From the grown shoots of the vines cut short last fall, we leave only two. We also cut one of them short, the other long. Next fall we repeat the same operation. This allows you not to thicken the bush and not to load with old wood that does not bear crops.

In Siberian agricultural technology, it is very important to calculate the load of the bush. The unit for calculating the load is the eye - the bud, which will carry the inflorescence and bunch next summer. Overload the bush - the quality of the berries will decrease, in addition, the bunches will slowly ripen, not allowing the plant to send all its strength to ripening summer wood. To underload a powerful plant with berries - it will immediately start up tens of meters of powerful green lashes. Such an accelerator will also not have time to ripen by winter. All strength went into growth. Thus, the plant approaches wintering weakened, not prepared. This is fraught with freezing of some of the roots, possibly the entire plant.

Photo of pruning grapes

Grape bush load

• The first year or two, the grape bush grows freely, developing a powerful root system, creating a supply of nutrients.
• Entering the fruiting season, the plant for the first summer is left with no more than twenty eyes - future bunches.
• For the second year, we double the load on the bush (20-40 eyes).
• The third year, one and a half to two times (40-60 bunches)
• The fourth year of fruiting - we increase the load to 60-80.
• An adult plant is loaded, depending on the strength of growth and variety, in the range of 80-150 eyes.
• We leave a larger number of eyes for small-berry varieties, large-fruited ones can do with fewer. But in general, the load is determined by the state of the bush, its health, winter hardiness, as well as the climatic conditions of your area.
• Of two troubles - overloading or underloading the bush, the lesser evil is underloading.

Hardening

The main feature of Siberian agricultural technology is the hardening of plants, their acclimatization to daily, annual temperature drops, short summers and long winters. Hardening is manifested by the fact that southern grape varieties are not recommended to be kept in greenhouse conditions - a greenhouse shelter for the entire growing season will be of little use. So you can prevent the bush and the crop from frosts, which are frequent in spring and occurring in summer, but this way you will pamper the bush.

It will be difficult for him to endure wintering - which is more important than surviving the frost.The only expedient measure is to cover the overwintered vines, which have not yet been raised to the trellises, with a film in the spring, during the most severe frosts, capable of beating all the flowers and depriving them of the harvest until next summer.

In the photo is a bush of grapes

The plant gradually develops resistance to daily temperature extremes, shortens the growing season, ripening better for winter. The consequence of this is a smaller increase in wood, lower yield per bush, lower sugar content of the juice, but increased resistance and winter hardiness.

Shelter for the winter

Preparing for wintering will be the most important part of Siberian viticulture for you. Although the main task will be to protect the grapes from frost penetration, which can reach minus 50, and sometimes even lower, it is also important to protect the vines from damping, wetting, decay, and the development of fungal diseases.

We lay protective materials on plants, when daily temperatures close to zero are established, solar activity does not allow the vine to warm up much, provoking a greenhouse effect, damping, which can greatly weaken the bush. The optimal shelter period for grapes before wintering is from mid-October to early November.

Photography sheltering grapes for the winter

The technique of sheltering grapes for the winter:

• The cut vines are removed from the trellises and placed along the trench where the grapes grow.
• You can only cover dry bushes. So it is best to carry out this operation on a windy sunny day, in order to exclude the possibility of moisture getting inside the winter shelter of the grapes. Otherwise, fungal diseases will develop in winter, which can reduce the frost resistance of the bush.
• A covering material (strong cloth or film, preferably black) is placed on top of the vines, dug into the ground from both sides, or pressed against the soil.
• A winter protective layer is applied over the shelter. Coniferous spruce branches, such as pine, are best suited for these purposes.
• When the snow cover is established, make sure that there is enough snow over the vineyard. If necessary, install plywood or polycarbonate snow cordons.
• In the spring, after the snow melts, remove the top layer of protection. If the film is black, you can open the winter house later. If transparent, depressurize the shelter for air access from the ends.
• In April, with the beginning of an active growing season, remove all shelters from the grapes by installing the arches of a foil greenhouse over the vine. When the threat of frost passes (late May - early June), the greenhouse is removed. And the vines climb the trellises.

Top dressing and summer care

Agrotechnology, designed for hardening and acclimatization of grapes, excludes a large amount of fertilizing, especially nitrogen-containing ones. In the first half of the summer, it is enough to do only with regular watering.

Video about the correct planting of grapes in Siberia

An exception can be made for fertilization with humic acids and other organic fertilizing, which rather affect the quality of the soil, the degree of assimilation of nutrients by the bush and stimulate the immunity of plants. In the second half of the summer, it is recommended to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Grapes in Siberia for beginners - a quick guide.

1. You can grow early, mid-season varieties. Desirable Siberian selection.
2. Temper plants, cover with foil only in case of frost in spring, fertilize sparingly.
3. Regulate the load in bunches. From 20 eyes per bush in the first year and more in the future.
4. Prune twice in the fall, after harvest, before hiding for the winter.
5. Shelter for the winter, carry out snow retention.
6. After the spring opening, build film shelters over the bushes. Tie up the vines after the threat of spring frosts has passed.

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