The best parthenocarpic cucumber varieties

Many, including even very experienced, vegetable growers do not quite understand what parthenocarpic varieties of long-fruiting cucumbers are, and why they are considered the most suitable for growing in greenhouses. In this article, in addition to photos and descriptions of the best parthenocarpics, you will find a list of their advantages and an explanation of how they, in fact, differ from other types of cucumbers.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers: how they differ from other varieties and hybrids

Most vegetable growers believe that parthenocarpics are cucumbers that do not need insect pollination, but this opinion is fundamentally wrong. Today, there really are many varieties that bear fruit perfectly without the help of bees, ants and bumblebees.

Such self-pollinated plants give a good harvest in greenhouses, but the quantity and quality of their fruits is significantly lower than that of modern parthenocarpic varieties, which, from a scientific point of view, it would be more correct to call hybrids.

Parthenocarpic, in other words, self-fertile plants, unlike self-pollinated ones, form ovaries without fertilization at all. The payment for such a kind of "autonomy" is the complete absence of viable seeds in their green plants, which completely deprives gardeners of the opportunity to receive seed from their own harvest.

Attention! Seeds of parthenocarpic hybrids are expensive, so unscrupulous sellers and manufacturers sometimes mix seeds of other, cheaper varieties of cucumbers with them. In order not to waste a lot of money, you need to buy parthenocarpic seeds in large horticultural centers or company stores of reputable breeding companies.

Benefits of parthenocarpics

For all the main indicators, parthenocarpic hybrids are significantly superior to the classic varieties of cucumbers, in particular, they have a longer growing season, and therefore, when cultivated in greenhouses, they regularly bear fruit for 2-3 months.

Cucumbers in the greenhouse

But the long vegetation period is not the only advantage of parthenocarpics. Their fruits are embedded from the mass of other zelents with a magnificent appearance and excellent taste.Gherkins of parthenocarpic hybrids are even, uniform, with a beautifully colored thin skin and juicy, sweetish pulp. Parthenocarpic fruits never taste bitter and do not need to be pre-sorted.

Attention! Compared to varietal cucumbers, parthenocarpic hybrids are more capricious and demanding in care, however, with proper agricultural technology, they yield harvests that significantly exceed the yields of classic varieties.

The most popular parthenocrypic cucumber hybrids: a brief description and photo

"Herman F1" - a very early ripening hybrid that begins to bear fruit on the 40th day from the day of planting. This hybrid variety is characterized by a bouquet (6-8 fruits in each node) formation of ovaries. Vigorous vigorous bushes "Herman" grow in one stem, which greatly facilitates their care. Due to the high density of the pulp, the gherkins of this hybrid are excellently stored and, even after processing, remain firm and crunchy. With the thorough implementation of all the appropriate agrotechnical measures, the productivity of this hybrid can reach 20 kg of greens from 1 sq. meters of the usable area of ​​the greenhouse.

Cucumber variety German

"Masha F1" - ultra-early parthenocarpic hybrid with a ripening period of zelents 37-42 days from the moment of planting the seeds. Unlike most other hybrid cucumbers, "Masha" does not impose particularly strict requirements on the composition of the substrate and feels great on any loose enough and moderately fertile soil. "Masha" firmly resists false and true powdery mildew, quite easily tolerates short-term drops in temperature in the greenhouse.

"Courage F1" - According to many growers, this is one of the most successful parthenocarpic hybrids, which is especially good for beginner small farmers. Medium early, "bouquet" type variety is characterized by high resistance to a wide range of diseases and good survival in adverse conditions. "Courage" continues to grow even with very noticeable temperature changes (both in the lower and higher directions), and with a short-term drop in temperature to 0 degrees C, it does not die, but only stops in development.

Cucumbers Courage

"Zozulya F1" - a parthenocrpic hybrid of medium ripening, the first greens on the bushes of which ripen 45 days after planting the seeds. Unlike most other hybrid varieties, Zozuli's fruits are not universal small gherkins, but rather large, about 20-22 cm long salad cucumbers with delicate and thin skin.

The above varieties are just a tiny part of the list of parthenocarpic hybrids that exist today, so do not be afraid to experiment, and then you will certainly find the variety that best suits your requirements and personal preferences.

Parthenocarpic hybrids of cucumbers: video

Parthenocarpic cucumbers: photo

If, when choosing cucumber seeds, you pay attention not only to the picture, but also read the inscriptions, you must have come across bags with the inscription "Parthenocarpic hybrid" appearing more and more often in stores.

Parthenocarpic cucumber

Bees are no longer needed

Firstly, some manufacturers are inaccurate by indicating “self-pollinated” in parentheses on the packaging of such cucumber seeds. Parthenocarpic cucumbers are not pollinated at all. Not themselves, not with the help of kind bees and other helpers. They produce fruits without pollination. And the fruits are interesting in that, as you would expect, they do not have seeds. That is, you will not be able to collect your seeds and grow parthenocarpic cucumbers from them next year.

By the way! The fact that these varieties and hybrids can produce flowers and fruits without pollination does not mean that they cannot do so with pollination. Otherwise, how would the breeders get these very seeds for you.Just like in hybrids to preserve the variety, in parthenocarpic cucumbers, seeds are obtained from the fruit, which was formed as a result of manual transfer of pollen from the stamen of one variety to the pistil of another.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers

Benefits of parthenocarpic cucumbers

This interesting cucumber look has many advantages.

Benefits of parthenocarpic cucumbers

In addition to the difficult to pronounce name, cucumbers are different:

• abundant flower formation;
• generous and long-term fruiting;
• truly gigantic growth of lashes (up to two meters);
• excellent taste.
• uniformity in size (the fruits grow almost all the same), which gives them a highly marketable look;
• lack of even the slightest signs of bitterness;
• the possibility of using for preservation and pickling;
• the ability to transport without damage;
• retaining emerald color (cucumbers do not turn yellow);
• long shelf life that does not require special conditions.

In addition, the lack of seeds is also an unusual and interesting detail when eating and preserving the fruit.

What are parthenocarpic cucumbers for?

Growing cucumbers in the open field

At first, these varieties were not grown outdoors. But gradually consumers, amateur gardeners began to plant cucumbers that do not require pollination in open ground. At first it was a temporary greenhouse, the film from which was removed during warming. Then the usual ridge. What if the weather will be bad, it will rain, bees have a non-flying time.

Planting seedless cucumbers in the open field behaved no worse than in the protected field. And today, many grow varieties of parthenocarpic cucumbers in the open field.

Which varieties of parthenocarpic cucumbers are suitable for outdoor use?

Ajax F1	Refers to early hybrids. Ripening on the 35th day after germination. Has excellent productivity. It develops powerfully and quickly, throws out long lashes with numerous ovaries. In one node, forms several fruits at once. The size of the fruit is 12 cm (plus / minus 1 cm), pimply, richly emerald. The palatability is considered extra high. Suitable for fresh use, storage, conservation.
Form F1	An ultra-ripe hybrid. The collection can begin on the 35th day. It differs from the rest in the size of the fruits - they are small, only 7 cm. Many wait for the cucumbers to grow to the usual 12. This is not necessary - the fruits show the best taste in a size of no more than 8 cm in length. At this time, they have a special juiciness, bright aroma, rich taste. They can also be used successfully for salting.
Angel F1	Also from early fruiting. Begins to bear fruit on the 40th - 43rd day from germination. Fruits - no larger than 11 cm. Smooth, thin, gherkin type. Impeccable fresh taste. Suitable for pickling.
Herman F1	It is especially popular and loved by summer residents. It has proven itself over the years when grown both in a greenhouse and in the open field. The size of all fruits is 10 cm. They ripen on the 40th day. The taste is excellent. They are ideal for conservation.
F1 advance	This variety is also early ripening, the first fruits are ready for harvest 40 days after germination. The harvest is impressively bountiful. The variety is new, improved with properties to resist root rot, peronospora, cladosporium and other cucumber diseases. The sizes are standard - 12 cm. The color is also typical - a classic emerald color. They have whitish "thorns". The surface is bumpy. On the palate - sweet, crunchy texture, pronounced characteristic cucumber taste. Stored and pickled.
Christina F1	The breeders of the well-known Dutch company "Royal Sluis" have developed this variety especially for growing in open soil.Increased resistance to numerous diseases, early, amicable ripening, immunity to the effects of stressful environmental factors, all this makes the hybrid popular and in demand among amateur gardeners. Fruits are 11 cm in size. The taste is excellent with any kind of pickling and canning and fresh.
Cucumber Masha F1	The fruit of the selection of the same Dutch company. Early harvest (38-40 days from germination). This parthenocarpic grows up to 10 cm. The fruits have a dense crunchy texture and a very rich taste of a young cucumber. They are eaten fresh, but they are also quite suitable for canning.
Cucumber Pasamonte F1	A variety from other Dutch breeders - the S&G company. Competitive advantages - simplicity in cultivation. Also resistant to disease, especially rot. Early harvest. Gherkin-type fruits, 8-9 cm. This seed company processes the seeds with thiram, so there is no need to soak or subject them to any other treatment before sowing (this should be written on the package - be careful). Suitable for both canned food and fresh use.
Real host of F1	Differs at the same time in high yield, excellent marketability and excellent taste. Disease resistance is increased. The ripeness period is 37 days. Fruits 11 cm, light emerald. Suitable for conservation. Very good quality.
Mila F1	One of the most productive varieties of parthenocarpic, resistant to the most dangerous cucumber diseases. One of these is downy mildew, which, in the event of an attack on borage, is very difficult to cure. Fruits of medium compactness - 10 cm. The taste is amazing. They have proven themselves excellently in canning, including industrial canning. The seeds are also processed by the manufacturer with thiram, so they do not need soaking.
Parker F1	The variety is well-known and popular. Time-tested and thousands of summer residents. Grows well in an open garden. Gives the richest harvest. Ripens on the 38th day. The fruits crunch not only fresh, but also canned.

Agrotechnical features

When growing parthenocarpic cucumbers, if you decide to purchase their seeds for open ground, it is important to properly form the borage bush. They do not have barren flowers, therefore, unlike pollinated varieties, they do not need to be pinched after 8 leaves. Pinching can be done only if the main stem has outgrown the trellis wire (the recommended stem size is 2 meters).

Formation of parthenocarpic cucumbers

Video - Masha F1 (Masha F1) parthenocarpic cucumber

An experienced gardener is unlikely to have a question what this is a parthenocarpic cucumber variety. The specific term on the package with seeds confuses beginners, those who have just recently started a summer cottage and built a greenhouse on it.

What is parthenocarpic cucumber

If we translate the word parthenocarp from the Greek language, it will mean "virgin fetus". In a simple way, the fruit is obtained without the participation of the pollen of the male flower, that is, without pollination.

If you cut parthenocarpic zelenets, then on the cut there may be no seeds at all or they will be very smallnot formed. With the advent of cucumbers of this type, a new stage in the development of greenhouse farms began. The need for pollination has disappeared.

Quite recently, hives with bees were placed in industrial greenhouses; now they are not needed. Choosing the right cultivar for the greenhouse solves the problem.

The fruits are formed without pollination.

The seeds in the fruits of parthenocarpic cucumbers are very small

Advantages and disadvantages of cucumbers

Let us first estimate the advantages that a summer resident will have who planted parthenocarpic cucumbers. The first plus is yield... In bee-pollinated varieties, it depends on insects, in self-pollinated varieties from weather and insects. The yield is affected by low illumination, excessive soil moisture.

Parthenocarpic varieties show stable yields regardless of pollinator insects and weather conditions. You can plant cucumbers under the covering material, the fruits will be successfully formed in complete isolation.

These varieties are successfully grown:

1. In the apartment on the windowsill.
2. On the loggia.
3. In the greenhouse.
4. Outdoors.
5. Under temporary cover.

The main advantage is high yield

The second plus is taste and quality of fruits... Due to the lack of seeds, the pulp has a pleasant tender structure, the same density. There is no bitterness in cucumbers. Zelentsy are excellent raw materials for the production of canned vegetables.

Summer salads from young zelentsy look appetizing, tasty and fragrant.

The best varieties

As always, in the spring, the search for suitable varieties begins. I want to have an early harvest without much hassle. Consider several proven parthenocarpic varieties.

Pasamonte F1 - hybrid, yields early. A little more than a month (35 days) passes from the emergence of seedlings to the removal of the first cucumber. Cucumbers can be pickled. They are great in salads. Seeds undergo special processing before packaging, so they can be sown without prior preparation.

Emelya F1 - a hybrid that will delight you with yield and excellent immunity. Even under unfavorable conditions, it gives a full-fledged harvest of cucumbers (15 cm) with an even, green color. The first wave of harvest 40 days after germination.

Herman F1 - a hybrid with a stable yield, little susceptible to infections. Fruits with white thorns are formed in 7-8 pieces in a bunch, have the same size (3 * 12cm). The appointment is universal. The first cucumbers ripen in 40 days.

Features of growing in open and protected ground

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are best grown in a polycarbonate greenhouse... In conditions of protected ground, it is easier to care for cucumbers with a bunch type of fruiting. Maintain the optimum temperature and the required air humidity.

Planting seeds

Seeds can be planted directly into the ground or sown in peat cups for seedlings. The germination of purchased seeds is not guaranteed, therefore 2-3 dry seeds or 1 hatched seed are planted in the hole (glass).

Bushes grow vigorous, require good lighting and nutrition. Place the holes 50 cm apart. The rows should be at least 1 m apart, the best distance between the rows is 1.5 m.

Dig up the soil before planting, add a quarter of a bucket of humus, ½ glass of ash to each hole. The soil must warm up before planting seeds.

Planting is possible both by seeds in the ground and through seedlings

Seeds will not sprout if the temperature at a depth of 12 cm less than 15 degrees... The garden bed should be covered with PVC foil. The film will retain moisture in the soil, this will accelerate seed germination.

Care for the first shoots

When the first shoots appear, remove the film and replace it with covering material. During the day it can be removed, and at night it can be thrown on young shoots. Between the holes it is worth putting 1.5-5 liters of plastic water bottles.

During the day, the water heats up, and at night it gives off heat and maintains the air temperature. During this period, abundant watering is not needed. The ground should be moderately moist... Take warm, settled water for irrigation.

Watering and weeding

If you have planted cucumbers, then get ready for them water every 3 days... During the period of active fruiting and hot weather, every 2 days. Defend the water before watering. It should be warm. One watering can should be enough for 2 plants.

Weeding will also take time. Will help mulch - a layer of dry grass (10-15 cm) will cover the soil and reduce the amount of weeds on the ridge. Mulch will also reduce moisture evaporation and reduce the likelihood of the frequent cucumber disease - powdery mildew.

Mulch around parthenocarpic cucumbers will reduce weeds

This type of cucumber responds well to all types of dressings (root, foliar).Before fruiting, feed with herbal infusion, mullein infusion or ammonium nitrate solution once every 7-10 days.

During the formation of the fruit crop, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are useful.

In bad weather - foliar dressing:

• milk with iodine;
• water plus boric acid.

Pinching and feeding

Pinch central stem of parthenocarpic cucumbers not necessary... This is a feature of this species. In self-pollinated and bee-pollinated species, you need to pinch the main stem over the 5th leaf.

But it is imperative to pluck out all the ovaries and flowers in each of the 4 lower sinuses. This technique is called blindness... The goal, which is pursued in this case, is to direct nutrients to the development of the plant.

Blinding is a mandatory procedure for parthenocarpic varieties

Bush formation

A stem is tied to the trellis after the appearance of 4 leaves... As it grows, you need to form a bush:

• From a height of 0.5 m to 1.5 m, pinch the shoots over 2 leaves.
• After 1.5 m - over 4 sheets.
• When the top of the stem reaches the top of the trellis, throw it over the top wire.
• At a distance of 0.6 m from the ground, pinch the top of the main stem.

Harvesting and storage

Every two days you need to inspect the cucumber lashes and pick cucumbers.

In this case, the zelents do not outgrow, the formation of new ovaries is accelerated. It turns out that the timely collection of fruits helps to increase yields... Store the harvested cucumbers in a cool, dark place or in the refrigerator.

It is worth purchasing parthenocarpic cucumber varieties for your summer cottage economy. A rich harvest of zelents will be provided by: the correct planting scheme, timely feeding and measures for the formation of a bush.

The dream of every gardener is a big harvest without much hassle. Thanks to the success of scientists, this has become possible. The emerging parthenocarpic cucumber varieties without much effort bring stable yields even in closed greenhouses. They are highly resistant to disease and grow in any weather. But in order to enjoy crispy and delicious cucumbers all season, it is worth learning all the intricacies of planting and care.

What is parthenocarpic cucumber and the history of its origin

A vegetable that appeared in culture more than 6 thousand years ago, which is well known to everyone as a cucumber, was a native of tropical India. It quickly spread to other climatic regions. Now it is impossible to imagine a garden without this vegetable. Whole greenhouse complexes specialize in growing it. And all because cucumber is one of the most beloved and common food products. In the open field, the plants are pollinated by hardworking bees. But in closed greenhouses, obtaining vegetables that require pollination is a difficult task. It was necessary to install hives inside the structure in order to increase the low yields.

More recently, hives were established for pollination of cucumbers in greenhouses.

The rapidly developing greenhouse economy posed a difficult task for scientists - to solve the problem of pollination. And in the middle of the 20th century, this seemingly insoluble issue was removed from the agenda. Scientists from China and Japan managed to make a discovery to identify the properties of self-pollination of some plant species. As a result, varieties of cucumbers were born that had the property of parthenocarpies. In botany, this term refers to the formation of fruits on a plant without fertilization.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers are capable of producing crops without pollination

The name parthenocarp consists of 2 Greek words - virgin and fetus.

The parthenocarpic cucumber variety does not require pollination, nor can it be considered a self-pollinated variety. Simply put, the fruit setting process takes place without pollen. The common problem of barren flowers in pollinated varieties is completely absent in hybrids.

A distinctive feature of parthenocarpics is either the complete absence of seeds, or they are very small and undeveloped. Therefore, collecting seeds from such varieties will not work.

A distinctive feature of parthenocarp is the absence of seeds

What are the advantages of parthenocarpic varieties

• They grow rapidly and bear fruit intensively.
• Fruiting occurs for a long time without interruption.
• They are immune to major cucumber diseases.
• They are not afraid of adverse weather conditions.
• Excellent taste, no bitterness.
• The transportation is well tolerated.
• Long shelf life that does not require special conditions.

Video: comparison of parthenocarpic and varietal cucumbers

Growing parthenocarpic varieties indoors

Initially, parthenocarpic varieties were intended exclusively for greenhouse cultivation. But now they are successfully grown in the open field and even on the windowsill.

Parthenocarpics are grown in heated winter greenhouses, where special conditions are created. The soil temperature should not fall below + 13 ° C. The air was warmed up from +18 to + 24оС. The greenhouse should have good ventilation, but no drafts. For the frame, it is best to use modern plastic (it does not rot and does not rust); glass is preferable as a coating, which allows maximum sunlight to pass through. Although at present, durable polycarbonate is very popular.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers - ideal for greenhouses

You can plant cucumbers in 2 ways: seedling and non-seedling.

Seedling method

The advantage of planting seedlings is to accelerate the ripening of cucumber fruits. But it is more time consuming at the stage of seed germination.

The preparatory period before starting seed germination is as follows:

1. Disinfection. The seeds are dipped in a pink solution of manganese for 25-30 minutes, after which they are washed under running water. A weak solution of manganese will disinfect seeds
2. Soak. Seeds should be wrapped in a clean cloth, dipped in water at room temperature, squeezed slightly, put into a plastic bag and left for a day. To enhance the effect, you can use the biostimulant Zircon. The next step is to soak the seeds.
3. Hardening. After a day, the seeds are placed in the refrigerator on the lowest shelf. Hardening should take 2 days. Hardening is the final stage of seed preparation

Conscientious vegetable seed suppliers handle the seed processing themselves. Such seeds are covered with a colored shell and are already ready for planting in the ground without preliminary procedures.

It is advisable to plant each seed in a separate peat tablet so that when transplanting it into a greenhouse, it does not disturb the root system. Germination takes place at a temperature of + 27 ° C, after the emergence of shoots, it is advisable to keep the thermometer at + 21 ... + 23 ° C. Humidity 75%. When 3-5 leaves appear on the seedlings (but not earlier than 25 days after planting), it is ready for transplanting into the ground.

In order not to damage the delicate roots of a cucumber when planting in the ground, it is best to grow seedlings in peat tablets.

Parthenocarpic cucumber cultivars should be well lit. Therefore, they are planted as follows:

• The row spacing is 1.5 m.
• Plants are planted 45–50 cm apart.
• The width and depth of the fossa is 30 cm.

The soil

When preparing the soil for planting seedlings, add 2-3 buckets of rotted humus to it, 1 tbsp each. urea and potassium sulfate, 2 tbsp. superphosphate. The quantity is calculated for 1 m2. The soil should be neutral in acidity.

Before planting seedlings, you need to prepare the soil in the greenhouse.

Watering

From the moment of planting until the appearance of the first flowers, watered moderately - under 1 bush 4 liters of water. Cucumbers that have entered the fruiting period need to be watered more often - a bucket of water under the bush every 3 days. Be sure to consider the air temperature in the greenhouse.On hot days, the soil should not dry out. The best method for cucumbers is drip irrigation.

Video: drip irrigation in the greenhouse

Water the plants under the root and only with warm water. Try to moisturize the soil in the morning or evening.

It is best to use mulch to retain moisture in the soil. Due to the superficial location of the roots, loosening is not worth it. But weeding should be done regularly, ridding cucumbers of competitors for moisture and nutrients. Application of mulch prevents weeds from germinating, as sunlight does not penetrate the cover.

The humidity in the greenhouse should not exceed 70%, otherwise there may be a possibility of infection with fungal infections.

Mulching will help maintain the necessary soil moisture

Fertilizers

The first feeding is carried out 3 weeks after planting. Add 1 tablespoon to 1 bucket of water. potassium sulfate, superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. The solution is added after watering so as not to burn the roots.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride and potassium salt are not suitable for feeding, since the roots of the cucumber are sensitive to chlorine.

Cucumbers are very fond of organics, which must be alternated with mineral feeding. Chicken droppings are diluted in a ratio of 1 to 15. Cow or horse manure - 1 to 6. Pour 0.5 liters of solution under one bush.

During the fruiting period, 1 glass of ash is used, 1 tbsp. potassium nitrate and 2 tbsp. urea in a bucket of water. Fertilization rate - 1 time in 9-12 days.

Cucumbers grow well organically

Tying

This is the most crucial moment at the stage of caring for cucumbers. The grown plant is allowed upward along a vertical trellis, the lower end of which is fixed in the form of a free loop over 2 and 3 cucumber leaves. The top end is attached to a horizontally stretched wire.

Parthenocarpics must be tied up or put on a cucumber net

Seedless way

In an unheated greenhouse, planting takes place at a soil temperature of at least 15 ° C, otherwise the seeds will not sprout.

The seed is processed in the same way as for forcing seedlings. Seeds are embedded shallowly into moist soil, following the scheme, as when planting seedlings.

If you doubt the planting material, then it is better to plant 2 or 3 seeds in one hole. When shoots appear, leave the strongest plant, remove the rest. Attention! Do not pull out weak shoots, otherwise you can damage the root of the strong. It is better to cut off the excess with scissors at soil level.

After the seeds have sprouted, they are looked after in the same way as the seedlings.

Cucumber seeds from bona fide suppliers have already been processed and can be sown directly into the soil

Outdoor cultivation

In the open field, parthenocarpic cucumbers are grown using the same 2 methods: using seedlings and seeds.

For landing, you need to choose sunny, wind-protected places. The following crops planted nearby can serve as good backstage:

• sunflower;
• corn;
• potato;
• legumes.

The selected area is freed from plant residues, 4 buckets of manure and 3 glasses of wood ash per 1 m2 are added, dug to a depth of at least 20 cm.Up to 100 g of nitrophoska can be added to organic matter. It is advisable to carry out preparatory work in autumn or spring, so that nutrients have time to integrate with the soil before planting. If you did not have time with the preparation, then fertilizers can be applied in a week, mixing well with the ground.

1. The seeds are prepared as described above.
2. In the prepared area, shallow, up to 2 cm, grooves are made with the help of a pin. If the soil is dry, water it and plant seeds every 3-4 cm. Sprinkle it on top with sawdust, peat, humus or just loose earth. The grooves for planting cucumbers are made using a herringbone
3. After the appearance of the first shoots, the general condition of the plants is assessed. If the seedlings have sprouted densely, they need to be thinned out, removing the weakest.The distance between the shoots should be between 5 and 15 cm.
4. At first, you need to carefully loosen and weed the beds. The grown plants no longer loosen.

Watering

Water the seedlings only with warm water (20 - 250C). The approximate water consumption is 1.5 per 1 m2. With the onset of fruiting, watering is increased. On hot sunny days, moisturize daily. The water consumption rate is also increasing - 3 liters per 1 m2.

Top dressing

Top dressing is recommended to be applied every 10-12 days. To do this, 1 liter of mullein infusion can be diluted in 10 liters of water. Organic matter should be alternated with mineral feeding - 10 g of urea per bucket of water. If the leaves begin to fade, carry out foliar treatment with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, the same urea. It is best to carry out such dressing after sunset, so as not to burn the leaves.

For foliar processing of cucumbers, I use nitrogen-containing fertilizers

Cucumbers grow well in areas where onions, tomatoes, potatoes and cabbage were grown before them.

Seedlings must be hardened for a week before planting in open ground. For the first time, you can briefly take out the seedlings outside in the evening. Then - at lunchtime, but always shaded from the sun. For the first days, seedlings outside should be covered with a plastic bag. Then the bag is removed so that the seedlings can adapt to the environment. The day before being transferred to the garden, the seedlings are watered several times.

They are transplanted only in sunny weather, at an air temperature of + 25 ° C. The soil should warm up to + 25 ... + 30оС. This temperature in the beds is achieved thanks to the applied manure. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The roots are covered with soil, without deepening the level of the previous planting.

Further care is carried out according to the rules described above.

Video: garter cucumbers

Growing indoors

Parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers can be successfully grown at home, creating certain conditions for them.

For cultivation, separate containers and large boxes with holes at the bottom for the outflow of excess moisture are suitable. Calculate the volume of containers based on the fact that one plant should have 5–7 liters of soil. Do not forget also that the drainage layer must be at least 3 cm.

It is quite possible to grow cucumbers on the windowsill if you follow the rules

The primer can be purchased at the flower shop. To give it more looseness, river sand should be added. A self-prepared substrate will consist of the following components, taken in equal amounts:

• garden land;
• coarse sand;
• humus;
• wood ash;
• rotted sawdust.

It is advisable to disinfect the soil mixture by calcining it in the oven.

Sowing seeds: step by step

1. Drainage and disinfected soil mixture are poured into the container.
2. The prepared seeds are embedded in moist soil. Cover the container with a plastic bag and put it in a warm, bright place so that the temperature inside is not lower than + 25 ° C.
3. Periodically, the film is removed for ventilation, and the surface of the earth is moistened.
4. With the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed. A trellis is constructed from a thin twine, along which the whips are directed.
5. Further growth occurs at a temperature of + 20 ° C.

Since cucumbers are very sensitive to heat and light, the container with plants should be placed on the south side. If there is not enough light, which often happens in winter, phytolamps should be used to extend the daylight hours to the prescribed 15 hours.

If the cucumbers do not have enough light, we extend the daylight hours using phytolamps

In the cold season, a piece of polystyrene can be placed under the container with cucumbers. In this way, hypothermia of the roots can be avoided.

Video: growing cucumbers on the windowsill

Watering

Moisture-loving cucumbers should receive regular hydration. The soil should not dry out more than 5 cm. Leaves can be sprayed occasionally to increase overall moisture.

Top dressing

Mineral and organic fertilizers are used as top dressing. Domestic fertilizers Baikal M1 and Kristallin have proven themselves well.

The first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after planting. Then fertilizer is applied every 10–12 days.

Landing dates

In greenhouses, varieties are grown, which are divided according to planting seasons:

• winter and spring;
• spring and summer;
• summer and autumn.

By adhering to this periodicity, you can provide yourself with a year-round harvest.

Seed planting in a heated greenhouse begins in December.

Seeds are planted in open ground in the first half of May, when the ground warms up to the desired temperature (not lower than + 10 ... + 12 ° C). And the threat of recurrent frosts no longer exists. If you are the owner of warm beds, then sowing on them can be done 2 weeks earlier. The beds are covered with foil.

For seedlings, seeds are sown in April-May, depending on the ripening period of the variety.

Table: approximate dates for sowing cucumbers in open ground and for seedlings

Features of the formation of lashes and bushes

Under similar growing conditions for hybrid and varietal cucumbers, their pinching and shaping are different.

Without the formation of a bush, parthenocarpic varieties will not be able to show the maximum yield, since the extra shoots will draw off some of the nutrition and moisture. In such conditions, fewer fruits will be set, and it will take more time for them to ripen. In addition, getting rid of most of the mass of greenery will allow the main stem to receive more light, normal air exchange and eliminate possible fungal infections.

A distinctive feature of parthenocarpics from ordinary cucumbers is the formation of flowers on the main lash. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the shoots and emerging flowers in the axils of the first 5-6 leaves (from the surface of the ground it is about half a meter). That is, the so-called blinding zone remains below.

1. On the main lash above this zone, the shoots are left, but I regulate their length.
2. Immediately above the blinding zone, pinching is performed over the first leaf, leaving one ovary with 2 leaves.
3. After 50 cm, lateral shoots are left in 3 or 4 nodes. Each shoot has 2 ovaries and 3 leaves.
4. After the next 50 cm, pinch the shoot over 3 leaves, keeping 3 to 4 ovaries.
5. When the central lash reaches its maximum length, that is, the height of the trellis, the top of the shoot must be pinched.

Scheme of the formation and pinching of parthenocarpics

The best varieties of parthenocarpic cucumbers

Consider varieties of parthenocarpics for greenhouse cultivation.

Table: varieties that are best grown in a greenhouse

Photo gallery: varieties suitable for growing in a greenhouse

Table: varieties suitable for outdoor cultivation

Photo gallery: varieties used for outdoor cultivation

Parthenocarpics have become leaders among cucumber varieties for their excellent taste and unpretentiousness. And if earlier gardeners were suspicious of the novelty, considering such varieties suitable only for growing in a greenhouse, now they are happy to grow them in the open field.

Good day! My name is Irina. I live in a wonderful place - Crimea. Educator by education. I love nature and animals very much. I have been fond of floriculture for a long time, but I have just begun to master garden wisdom. My motto is live, learn.