Grape planting and care in the open field in Udmurtia

The prevailing stereotype that grapes can be grown only in those climatic zones where it is warm, today, not without much success, are broken by winegrowers living in regions where it is relatively cold.

They not only perfectly grow popular grape varieties, but also teach beginners how to care for the vine, how to cover grapes for the winter in Udmurtia, how to prune it correctly.

Each has its own special growing and care secrets. And they apply them in practice. And the result of such actions is an excellent and tasty harvest, which can be used both fresh and various preparations for the winter, in culinary dishes and popular grape drinks - juices, wine.

The first stage of cultivation is the choice of a variety

Of course, when choosing varieties for cultivation, it is first of all necessary to take into account the harsh climatic conditions of Udmurtia. These should be frost-resistant varieties, tested in practice.

If you opt for more thermophilic options, then you can be sure that in winter such a plant will freeze during spring frosts or completely die during a severe winter cold.

In Udmurtia, breeders recommend planting an early ripening grape variety adapted to cold conditions.

The grapes of the aforementioned variety matures within 130 days, tolerates temperature fluctuations and its seasonal decrease well. It has minimal heat requirements and matures well. The latter quality applies to both the vine and the berries themselves.

There are many universal varieties; among the huge list, the most popular ones can be distinguished:

1. Donskoy agate is a very early variety, an interspecific hybrid. Differs in good transportability and keeping quality. Withstands frosts down to -26 degrees.
2. Aleshenkin is an early variety, table variety, characterized by increased productivity, a significant mass of brushes (up to 2.5 kg).
3. Volzhsky is an early hybrid, table, distinguished by increased resistance to common diseases.
4. Delight is a hybrid, strong-growing, perfectly tolerates frosts and long-term transportation.
5. Far Eastern Ramminga - early, frost-resistant. Minus - cannot be transported.
6. Sabo pearls are an early ripening variety, medium-sized, winters well, and have a specific pleasant aroma.
7. Shasla Ramminga - disease resistant, early.
8. Northern - very early, vigorous.
9. Special - a very early variety, winters well.

This is not a complete list of varieties that are successfully grown in Udmurtia. There are also varieties of average yield. And all of them, being properly planted, with proper care, will delight you with an excellent harvest.

Things to consider when landing

Difficult climatic conditions have become the starting point from which local growers start when planting and caring for grapes in Udmurtia.

Harsh winters and hot summers allow the Udmurt winegrowers to cultivate those varieties whose growing season does not exceed 150 days. It is such a gap in the region that the warm weather reigns, which makes it possible for the harvest to ripen.Snow begins to cover the ground in November, it protects the vine from frost.

In Udmurtia, grapes can be planted not only in fertile areas, but also in those places where slightly salted soil or stony soil prevails. Plants should not be placed in swampy areas or in highly saline soil.

The landing site should be well lit by sunlight, protected from winds and drafts. It is not recommended to place the plant in the shade: the berries will ripen poorly, and when the first frosts appear, they will freeze even before they ripen.

Artificial climate improvement is encouraged. For example, planting plants near fences and walls of buildings or specially built walls made of brick or slate. Such material heats up quickly in the sun and creates additional heating for the shrubs.

An excellent seating option would be the southwest side with slopes. The snow will melt here faster, and the slopes will become a natural protection from the wind.

How to plant

The planting of young grape bushes must be carried out competently. This will be the key to a successful harvest and further long-term cultivation. Basic landing requirements:

• Disembarkation is carried out at the end of May - until mid-June. It is not recommended to do this in autumn.
• They are planted in separate holes or in planting trenches. In the latter, if the soil is sandy, in the former, if it is loamy.
• Distance between bushes - 2-3 m, between rows - 2.5 m.
• The dimensions of the landing pit, prepared in advance, are 1 by 1 m.
• There should be drainage in the pit: crushed stone, broken brick or broken gravel.
• Drainage should be sprinkled with a top soil layer, which contains a lot of useful substances. You can and should add ash, superphosphate, peat, potassium salt.
• Remove the roots from the seedlings on the upper nodes, the lower ones are shortened by 20 cm. The root system is immersed in a solution of mullein and clay for 2-3 days.

Grape care

Young seedlings need special attention. Especially in the first year of life. The process includes such stages as watering, feeding, loosening, it will be necessary to cover the grapes in order to prepare it for the onset of cold weather. A plus in growing and caring for grapes planted in Udmurtia is the almost complete absence of diseases and pests.

The bushes should be prepared for winter after harvesting. Particular attention should be paid to their shelter for the winter. This measure will prevent freezing and help preserve future crops. There are several ways to hide:

• hilling;
• covering the vine with earth;
• wrapping with burlap or agrofiber;
• construction of wooden shelters.

Taking care of grapes in Udmurtia in September means proper pruning after picking berries. Cut the vine at the level of 10-12 buds, so the plant overwinters better. If you do not prune the vineyard, the long vine will freeze. From the shoots obtained, cuttings can be prepared for new, young vines.

After pruning, annual shoots are tied horizontally. And perennials - obliquely along the row. It is necessary to try to make the garter in such a way that the entire trellis is evenly covered by the vine.

Fertilizers are applied to grapes in the first year only in spring, in subsequent years of growth - in the first half of summer several times. Autumn feeding takes place only after the harvest. Watering is done as needed.

If you follow all of the above recommendations, you can grow any grape variety you like in harsh climatic conditions and fully enjoy the delicious, juicy berries grown with your own hands. All stages of grape cultivation are simple and accessible to everyone who wants to try their hand at growing it.

Of course, some effort will still be needed. But the time and energy spent is more than compensated for by the joy of the sight of a juicy bunch, which will become a delicious reward for the time spent in the vineyard.And berries will become a successful and tasty addition to the daily family diet.

Growing grapes for novice gardeners can seem daunting at times. This perennial vine loves to be given maximum attention. Follow our tips to make sure you did everything right.

Grape bushes are often found in summer cottages, and all because it is not so difficult to grow a plant in the middle lane. Despite his whimsical nature, summer residents successfully plant bushes of various varieties and get good yields. If you decide to create a vineyard, late spring - early summer - it's time to buy seedlings and start planting.

The correct planting of grapes begins with the choice of a place. The vine needs a lot of light and warmth, so choose an area that is fenced from the wind, for example, near the southern wall of a house or barn.

Water should not drain from the roof onto the grapes, otherwise it will die.

The soil is required as nutritious, loose as possible. Give preference to black soil with a high humus content. Also, grapes will successfully take root on rocky or sandy ground, if you first add humus to the pit. The plant will like clay and peat soils less, so it is worth putting expanded clay, broken bricks, crushed stone or other drainage on the bottom of the pit.

On light sandy soils, grapes ripen 1-2 weeks earlier than on heavy clay soils.

Planting grape seedlings for beginners - preparation for the procedure

First of all, young vines need to be hardened. Even if the seller convinced you that he performed all the procedures on his own, it is better to play it safe. After all, seedlings that have not been hardened, take root worse and get sick more. You can wait for a harvest from them longer or they will die altogether, without even growing.

The procedure is carried out as follows: keep the seedlings in fresh air every day for about 2 weeks. Start at a quarter of an hour on the first day and then increase the time by 30 minutes each day. Protect the vine from the sun for the first week. The last 3-4 days, the grapes should be constantly in the fresh air. Exception: forecasted frost, which could kill seedlings.

It is worth planting grapes only after the end of return frosts. The most favorable time: May - early June, when the soil has already warmed up well. The ideal time to board is morning or evening. It is better to choose a cloudy day so that the plant takes root faster.

Grapes - planting and care in the open field

While the seedlings are hardening, dig quality planting holes. The width, length and depth are on average 80 cm, but you can adjust the parameters in accordance with the size of the site and the composition of the soil.

If the site has light fertile soil, planting holes for grapes can be dug out very small, and if heavy clay, their size should be as large as possible.

Divide the earth dug from the hole into three parts. The most fertile soil from the top layer, which is about 20-30 cm, you will later put on the bottom of the pit, closer to the roots. Then the middle part of the soil will be used. And on top - the least nutritious soil from the lower layer, which after a while will again become fertile after the action of soil bacteria.

When digging a hole, carefully inspect the clods, remove pest larvae and plant roots that can interfere with the development of the vine. Then pour into the hole:

• 2 buckets of rotted organic matter: manure, compost;
• 1.5 kg of wood ash;
• 300 g of complex feeding, for example, nitroammophoska.

Mix everything thoroughly with a long stick, having previously poured the top layer of fertile soil, and pour 2 buckets of water. When the moisture has been absorbed, pour soil from the middle layer of the pit.

It is better not to use nitrogen fertilizing in its pure form, otherwise the vine will begin to fatten, its ripening and resistance to frost will decrease.

If the weather was unfavorable or you did not have time to prepare the holes, the grape seedlings can be saved for autumn planting. Just transplant them into containers with drainage holes and dig them into the ground to the middle, water regularly. This gives you more time to get ready for the fall planting.

How to plant grapes correctly

When the hole is ready and the plant has hardened, proceed to planting. Remove the grapes from the packaging along with the earthen ball. Place the seedling in the hole so that the root formation zone (the heel of the cutting) is 35-40 cm below ground level. Conventionally, this place can be taken as the center of the container where the seedling was located. Also, make sure that the "peephole" from which the lowest green shoot develops is located 10 cm below ground level - so later it will be easier to form a bush and cover the shoots for the winter.

If the seedling is too long and cannot be planted vertically to the correct depth, position it obliquely with soil on one side of the hole.

At the end of planting, cover the plant with soil 5 cm below the "eye", compact it well with your hands so that there are no voids. Pour 1-2 buckets of warm water over the seedling. Wait for it to absorb and completely fill the hole with soil, but do not compact any more. The soil must remain loose for good air exchange, so there is no need to trample it. But mulching is worth it, tk. it will prevent the formation of an earthen crust and reduce moisture evaporation.

Many summer residents are wondering at what distance to plant grapes in a row. We answer: it is most correct to maintain a distance of 1-1.5 m between plants. If there are a lot of seedlings, you can not dig holes, but a trench 40-80 cm deep. You also need a support for the grapes so that the vine develops correctly. Use pegs, pipes, etc. as a temporary remedy. In the future, it is worth putting a trellis, which will allow the bush to form ideally and facilitate its care.

Grape care - first year in spring, summer and autumn

Spring grape care consists in combating diseases, pests and unfavorable external factors. For protection, spray the plant with 1% Bordeaux liquid, which will prevent the development of fungal diseases. Ordinary laundry soap (1 piece per 10 liters of water) will help with grape moths, fleas and spider mites. In addition, immediately after planting, young plants need to be shaded for a couple of weeks from direct sunlight, for example, using spunbond, plywood, shading nets or other materials at hand.

Caring for grapes in summer consists in regular watering and fertilizing, loosening the soil and weeding.

Watering and feeding grapes

After planting, the vine needs regular and abundant watering. Of course, how often you water your grapes depends primarily on the weather. But usually the plant is watered 10-15 days after planting and the procedure is repeated every 2 weeks. If it is hot and the earth dries up quickly, watering is increased.

For watering grapes, use warm, settled water in a volume of 5-10 liters per bush.

Fertilizers that were applied during planting will provide the vine with nutrients for 2-3 years, so there is no urgent need for additional feeding. If desired, at the end of summer, you can reinforce the plant with the following mixture: 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. M. Then the grapes are better prepared for winter.

Pruning grapes

The main purpose of pruning in the first year after planting is to give the bush the right "direction" of growth so that it has two new strong shoots. To do this, immediately after planting, cut it to 2 eyes, removing everything else.

In the future, grapes are pruned annually. Otherwise, thickened plantings will become a source of diseases and pests, and the yield will sharply decrease.

You can also carry out katarovka - removal of the surface roots of the plant.This will allow the other roots to go deeper into the ground and overwinter successfully. Outline the hole up to 25 cm deep and carefully trim off the top roots and excess shoots. Then cover the hole with earth.

For the winter, young bushes must be covered, regardless of whether you have a winter-hardy variety or not. The procedure is carried out when all the leaves fall off, after the first small frosts. For shelter, you can use straw, spruce branches, spunbond and even slate.

If you observe the correct watering of the grapes, regularly feed the vine and protect it from pests, then the young plant will develop as well as the seedlings planted last fall.

Do you want to grow grapes? The beginner cares collected in this article will help you create a luxurious vineyard that produces juicy berries every year.

Try planting a vine, perhaps this activity will fascinate you so much that you will become a real expert. And if you are already growing grapes, share your secrets of a rich harvest in the comments.

Grapes are one of the most beloved treats for people. Aromatic wine is made from it, dried fruits made from berries are added to baked goods, used in cooking. Cosmetics are made from grape seeds. But in order to get all these benefits, of course, you must first plant and grow this useful berry. It would seem that there is nothing easier. You have planted a seedling, and you wait until the fruits appear in a few years. But it’s not that simple. In order for the grapes to grow well and please with a rich harvest, it is necessary to take care of them. How to do this correctly, about the agricultural technology of growing grape bushes will be discussed in this article.

Landing dates

You can plant grape seedlings both in autumn and spring. It is better, of course, to do this in early spring, when the soil after the winter cold has managed to warm up to 6-8. At this time, the "cry" of the vineyards usually begins. That is, the beginning of active sap flow through the plant. Kilchevanny shanks sit down a little later. The soil should warm up to 10-12 degrees. In the southern regions, where the winter is not so harsh and the ground does not freeze too much, the planting of grape seedlings can be carried out in the fall. At a time when the leaves were already crumbling, before the onset of cold weather.

In spring, the seedling takes root better and has time to get stronger before winter.

If planting takes place in the fall, then the mounds of land should be larger than in the spring. To avoid frost damage to seedlings.

What to plant

Planting material is cuttings or seedlings (rooted cuttings). Saplings or cuttings are of two types:

1. Vaccinated;
2. Own-rooted.

In those areas where the soil freezes deep and there is a risk of frost damage to the roots, the planting of grafted seedlings is practiced. Also, this type of planting material is used in places where the soil is infected with phylloxera. If the weather conditions are favorable, the winters are not too cold and the soil is free of phylloxera, native-rooted grapes are cultivated.

You can plant an already blossoming and strong seedling, or you can also plant a cutting, which will begin its growth directly in the open field.

Grafted seedlings are much more resistant to low temperatures and some diseases.

Cuttings (shanks)

Growing seedlings from cuttings is perhaps the main method for propagating grapes. This is a fairly simple method that even a novice gardener can handle. The most important thing is to get cuttings of the grape variety that you would like to plant. In autumn, when the leaves fall off, but even before frost it is necessary:

• Cut from the vine of your favorite grapes cuttings with a diameter of at least 5 mm with 5-7 buds;
• Treat them with a solution of 1% copper sulfate to destroy disease spores;
• Soak for one to two days in water;
• Dry in the fresh air until water droplets disappear and put in a plastic bag, into which, if possible, pour sawdust.
• Storage temperature 6-7 ° C, humidity just below 100 percent.

The whole planting process is extremely simple and requires little effort.

In the spring, the saved cuttings are kept in water for some time until the roots appear. Then they are planted in open ground.

Graft

It is advisable to graft the grapes in the spring. Of course, each term has its own rules according to which this operation should be carried out. What does the vaccine give? This manipulation allows you to make the grape plant more resistant to various diseases and pests. In addition, grafting makes it possible to get completely different varieties on one root system. With this manipulation, you can rejuvenate the grapes. To develop new varieties with improved taste.

Grafting options for grape cuttings.

Grafting grapes is a rather complicated procedure that requires some training and skills.

Layers

Propagation of grapes by layering is a fairly simple method and has been known since ancient times. The advantage of this method is that you can easily renew an old vine bush, grow new seedlings or fill an empty space with a new plant next to the mother bush.

Any healthy and sufficiently developed shoot is selected in the vineyard. A small groove 10-20 cm deep is dug for it. Then the shoot is laid in it, fixed with wire brackets and sprinkled with earth and humus on top. The end of the vine must remain above the ground. It must be strengthened by tying it to a support. Further, the vine planted in the groove must be watered with water, having previously dissolved a small amount of manganese in it. Up to slightly pink. When the shoot has a full-fledged root system, it can be separated from the mother tree.

For propagation by this method, the bushes are formed low, the head of the bush should be as close to the ground as possible and with short sleeves.

In the hot season, the layers must be watered at least three times a month.

How to choose seedlings for a good harvest

The key to a good vineyard is quality planting material. Its further development and yield depends on the correct choice of grapes, the condition of the seedling. It is better to purchase planting material in specialized nurseries that are professionally engaged in breeding certain varieties. Depending on the weather in the region, the composition of the soil, it is necessary to decide which type of seedlings is best to plant. Grafted, which are more resistant to frost and phylloxera, or self-rooted, grown from cuttings.

Landing rules

For the correct planting of grape seedlings, it is necessary to take into account all the details that may affect the future harvest. And this:

• Choosing a suitable place;
• Depth of planting material in the ground;
• Distance between bushes and between rows;
• Soil moisture;
• The thickness of the layer of humus and the introduction of fertilizers necessary for growth;
• Protection against low temperatures if the grapes are not frost resistant.

Novice gardeners often make a mistake when planting grapes for the first time. The planting material is too shallow in the soil. Because of this, the roots of seedlings, with the onset of frost, freeze out.

Seat selection

Grapes are a sun-loving plant, which means that the sunny, southern side of the garden plot will be an ideal place for planting it. The area must be protected from constant drafts. It is better to plant grape bushes near the walls of the house, along the fence or other buildings on the territory. During the day, the walls warm up a little in the sun and at night give off heat to the plants. In addition, the grapes will be protected from strong winds and low temperatures, which means that the berries will ripen much faster.

Grapes are an unpretentious plant, but they cannot tolerate shade.

Considering that grapes do not like shaded areas, it is necessary to avoid planting them near tall trees.

Soil preparation

Grapes grow on almost any soil with the exception of salt marshes. A place where groundwater is too close to the surface is also not suitable. It is advisable to prepare a pit for planting a grape seedling a little in advance. This requires:

• dig a hole 60–70 cm wide;
• pour into it two buckets of rotted manure, two buckets of the top layer of fertile soil, a can of ash from burnt wood, 150-200 grams of superphosphate;
• mix well the soil with fertilizer in the pit.

The distance between the bushes should be at least 1.5, and in the row spacing 2 meters.

When planting a seedling near the house, it is necessary to retreat from the wall one and a half to two meters, so that in the future the growing strong roots of the vineyard do not damage the foundation.

Landing time and dates

The grapes can be planted in both spring and fall. An autumn or spring planting has both advantages and disadvantages. A seedling planted in spring does not have to winter in the open field, thereby eliminating the risk of damage from frost. Over the summer, the planting material gains strength and its root system is strengthened. The advantage of autumn planting is that it excludes the possibility of spoiling the seedling during storage due to the lack of storage itself. The planting material, competently sheltered from low temperatures, undergoes a kind of acclimatization in a new place during the winter. Although the roots are not so active, they still grow even in winter, because the rhizomes, unlike the ground part of the plant, do not have a state of dormancy.

The best time for planting seedlings is the end of May.

To get high yields from the vineyard, plants need proper care:

• competent, correct pruning;
• carrying out katarovka at least twice during the summer;
• timely pinching to relieve the bush and garter. The garter should be both dry and green;
• in the autumn and spring, preventive spraying against fungal diseases;
• feeding the vineyard with nitrogen fertilizers before the start of the growing season;
• installation of supports. A strong wire must be stretched between the posts, which can withstand not only the vines, but also the pouring bunches. The first, closest to the ground, is stretched at a level of 50 cm. The second is 25 cm from the first crossbar and the subsequent ones at a distance of 40 cm from each other.

In the early years, the young vineyard is weeded, loosened and fed.

Grapes also bear fruit on rainfed lands, but nevertheless, for greater productivity and longevity of the plant, it must be watered regularly. The school is watered everywhere. Fruit-bearing vineyards are watered in the irrigated areas of the southern regions of the country. When planting, schools give 25-35 liters of water for each running meter. In the next 5–8 irrigations during the growing season, they provide 400–800 cubic meters of water per hectare. When planting grapes, 20 liters of water are poured under each bush. In fruit-bearing vineyards, 800–1400 cubic meters of water per hectare are used for each irrigation.

Watering is done only if necessary, if the summer is dry.

Many grape varieties do not like excess moisture, so watering the plants should be moderate.

Garter

After the end of the trimming, it is necessary to carry out the garter. This procedure consists in tying last year's vines with twine to a wire that is stretched between the pole supports. The shoots are tied up horizontally so that all the eyes develop evenly. As young shoots grow, they are directed upward. This operation is called the green garter. With the first green garter, young shoots are attached to the second wire from the ground. With further growth, they are tied to the third, fourth. 3-4 green garters are produced during the summer.

The grapes are usually tied up at the stage of development of their green shoots.

Many grape varieties have bisexual flowers. Sometimes, for physiological reasons, they crumble, and this leads to looseness of the hands.... This disadvantage can be eliminated by pinching the tops of fruiting shoots at the very beginning of flowering or in front of it. This process will be most effective on bushes and shoots with great vigor. After a temporary suspension of growth as a result of pinching, nutrients are not consumed for growth, but are used for the development of inflorescences.

Pinching consists in removing the tip of the shoot.

Pinching is not carried out on table varieties for which looseness of the bunches is desirable.

Top dressing

The use of mineral and organic fertilizers significantly increases the yield of grapes. You can recommend the following plant feeding scheme:

1. In the southern regions of the country before opening the bushes in the spring, add superphosphate, ammonium sulfate (200 g and 100 grams, respectively) under each bush. Depth 40 cm.
2. Before bud break - nitrogen, phosphoric, and at the beginning of ripening of berries - phosphoric and potash.
3. Before flowering, during flowering and at the beginning of ripening, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, potassium salt (30: 20: 10). In grams for each bush. The depth of application is up to 35 cm. Once every three years, it is advisable to feed the bushes with organic fertilizers. At least 15 kg of humus for each bush. It should be remembered that in the spring, mineral fertilizers are not used in this case.

Pruning

In order to regulate the development of the grape bush and its fruiting, it is imperative to prune the vine. At the same time, young bushes form. When pruning two-year-old and older bushes, you must remember about their load. Pruning happens:

1. Short... They try to leave 2-3 eyes. An example of such trimming is a cup-shaped formation, for example, a Crimean bowl.
2. Long... Shoots are cut with pruning shears, leaving 6 or more buds on the vine. An example is a large fan formation.
3. Mixed. Some of the vines are often cut quite short (knots), and some are long - for fruit shoots. This pruning is the most common and is called fruit link pruning.

To properly cut the bush, it is necessary to take into account the adopted formation. And also take into account the morphological and biological characteristics of the variety, weather and climatic conditions, the degree of damage to shoots by frost.

Pest control

Diseases and pests wreak havoc on vineyards. Not only the harvest suffers, but the vine does not ripen either. And unripe shoots do not tolerate winter frosts well.

Among the most common diseases are mildew, oidium, anthracnose. And also black, white, gray rot. Even if grapes resistant to diseases are planted on the site, it must be remembered that unfavorable weather conditions can provoke the spread of fungal diseases. Therefore, for the purpose of prevention in the fall, the bushes and the soil around them should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid. In the spring, before bud break, the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of the same concentration. But if signs of disease appear on shoots and leaves, then a 3% solution of copper sulfate and fresh lime is used. But it is better in this case to treat the bushes with a fungicide.

Video

This video shows the correct planting of seedlings and the correct cultivation of grape seedlings from cuttings.

conclusions

It takes some effort to get a good harvest from a vineyard. Namely:

1. Prepare the plot and soil for planting grapes.
2. Pick up or grow planting material.
3. Observing all the norms plant seedlings in open ground.
   After the growth of seedlings, prune and cut.
4. For unloading bush pinching.
5. Increase yield possible due to irrigation and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.
6. Be sure to use for the prevention of the occurrence of fungal diseases, spraying with Bordeaux liquid.But if the first signs of pathology appear, switch to the treatment of the vineyard with fungicides.

Grown over millennia, grapes have undergone major changes over the past couple of centuries. Many new varieties have appeared that regularly yield crops even in those regions where they had never heard of a wine berry before. Breeders have bred not only winter-hardy varieties, but also species that are little affected by diseases that are dangerous for the culture, giving extra-large clusters and incredibly tasty berries, completely devoid of seeds. And yet, growers know that you can get a decent return on a bush of even the most productive and unpretentious variety by investing a lot of work and skill in growing and caring for grapes.

The first, after planting seedlings in the ground, a contribution to the future harvest is the formation of a grape bush, which begins from the first year of the plant's life and, together with the shape of the plant's crown, determines its fruiting.

With a competent approach, by the fourth year the bush takes on its final form, but this does not mean that the work of the grower is completed.

Formation of a grape bush

The choice of the shape of the grape bush, which determines its appearance, structure and number of both new shoots and green mass, depends on the climatic conditions of growth, soil fertility and the characteristics of the plant variety.

The result of the correct formation of the grape bush is:

• regular and, in accordance with varietal characteristics, bountiful harvest;
• a qualitatively ripening growth at the end of the growing season;
• a plant that tolerates winter without problems and does not suffer from diseases of grapes and its pests common in the area;
• providing a simple care for a grape seedling;
• facilitating the pruning of the vine and its watering, rejuvenation and adjustment of the existing load.

When wondering how to grow grapes, some novice gardeners act on a whim, not paying due attention to pruning the bush. However, there are many well-established options and types of forms that allow you to get good results in a wide variety of farming conditions. With the help of spring pruning, the grape bush is formed with or without a stem of various heights.

Most often, growers give rooting grape seedlings:

• capitate shape without perennial sleeves, but with a thickened upper part of the stem, from which, due to pruning by 1-2 eyes or per ring, a mass of new shoots grows;
• cup-shaped with sleeves of various lengths extending from the trunk, resting on stakes;
• a form with fruit links directed in one or two directions, the entire growth on which is distributed on a vertical trellis;
• cordon form with one or more perennial cordons, along which fruit links or branches are distributed. This option is convenient in growing and caring for grapes, gives high yields, but is more common in regions with a warm climate, where the vine does not require shelter for the winter;
• fan-shaped and semi-fan-shaped, resting on a trellis and having several sleeves of different lengths and strengths.

It is the various variants and combinations of the fan that have received the greatest recognition of winegrowers in Russia, since such a grape bush is easy to care for.

The bush can be adjusted if desired, and when arranging the trellis, the plants receive enough air, light and nutrition, give consistently high yields, can be removed and sheltered for the winter. The main part of the work on the formation of a grape bush is carried out in the spring, while in the summer excess and overgrowing shoots and stepchildren break off, a garter and other procedures are carried out, aimed at maintaining fruiting and the intended shape of the plant.

Tapestry for grapes

Since grapes are a vigorous liana, in most cases reliable and comfortable support is needed to grow them and facilitate maintenance.The presence of such structures is especially important for the stemless crown shape and the cultivation of vigorous varieties, as well as when using grapes for landscaping sheds, gazebos and other buildings.

Walls, poles, stakes and even trees growing next to the bushes can serve as a support for the vine, but the best solution would be to install a special trellis for grapes.

In amateur gardening, two types of construction are most common.

• vertical trellis, where the grape shoots are located in the same plane;
• an inclined trellis, on which the shoots are spaced into two planes at an angle to each other.

In both cases, reliable pillars serve as the supports of the structure; rows of strong wire are pulled between them, which will have to withstand not only the weight of the shoots, but also the weight of the pouring brushes. A single-plane trellis for grapes is simpler in the device and much cheaper, but for obtaining high yields from a bush, a two-plane option is more convenient, providing a large area to support fruiting shoots and withstanding a serious weight of the vine.

To simplify the cultivation and care of the grapes, between the trellises, there are aisles sufficient to remove the bushes and cover them during cold weather, as well as to provide sufficient lighting for the plantings, and the rows did not overlap. It is better if the trellis for grapes on the site will be located from north to south. In this case, the height of the structure is chosen depending on the growth of the grower, the characteristics of the variety and the chosen shape of the bush.

How to tie grapes

As the grapes grow during the growing season, the shoots are tied several times to the horizontal rows of the trellis or fixed on other types of supports. In this case, the garter, during which the shoots are evenly distributed in one or two planes, serves to solve several problems:

1. The plant is provided with the best light and air conditions.
2. It is easier to trim and normalize the green mass and ovary.
3. Carrying out foliar dressing of grapes, as well as performing "green pruning" is facilitated.
4. Vertical shoots grow and mature better.
5. The risk of developing grape disease and pest damage is reduced.
6. The budding winegrower should know when and how to tie the grapes.

The first time it is necessary to fix the position of the shoots when they are about 40-50 cm long and reach the bottom row on the trellis. Then, as they grow, the stems are tied sequentially to all rows.

As a garter material, it is better to take scraps of textiles or knitwear, natural twine or twine, that is, means that do not squeeze or pinch the growing shoots. It is convenient to use a special tool for tying a grape seedling, freely fixing the shoots with a plastic clip. On trellises, where the wire is stretched in two parallel rows, the shoots only start in such a gap, and the resulting whiskers are firmly fixed on the support over time. If grapes grown on a gazebo or shed are being taken care of, where free growth is provided, then such shoots do not need to be tied up.

Grape picking

In the summer months, growing and caring for grapes does not involve pruning perennial shoots, but you cannot do without removing some of the green parts of the plant. Depending on the grape variety, the load experienced by the bush, as well as the cultivation conditions, plants from the buds on the shoots of the current year can produce a significant number of second-order shoots. If left unchecked, these stepchildren will take away much-needed nutrients from the future harvest and shade the entire bush. Excessive bush density is a serious risk factor for the development of grape diseases such as mildew and powdery mildew. Therefore, you should not wait for the growth of parasitic shoots.

If in regions with a short summer, grape pinching consists in the complete removal of shoots already at the initial stages of development, then in the south, especially when growing early varieties, stepchildren are only shortened in order to get an additional harvest of sweet berries by autumn.

And in some cases, for example, when the vine suffers from frost or hail, grapes are not pinched at all. Stepsons replace the lack of green mass on the bush and help to resume the development of the bush.

Preventive treatment and foliar feeding of grapes

Getting a high-quality and stable grape harvest is impossible without providing the plant with the proper amount of nutrients. Growing on a trellis gives the grower the opportunity to use foliar dressing of grapes, an effective source of additional nutrition and minerals.

The greatest need for such dressings is for grape bushes:

• before and after flowering;
• during the period when the coloring of the berries begins;
• a few days before harvest.

For feeding grape seedlings and adult bushes, use a solution containing 5% superphosphate, 0.5% ammonium sulfate and 1% potassium salts. When the berries begin to ripen, the vine no longer needs nitrogen, but trace elements, for example, zinc and boron, can be added to the top dressing.

After flowering, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of boric acid in combination with a fungicide that prevents the development of downy mildew, a disease that occurs in conditions of high humidity and has a detrimental effect not only on the future harvest, but also on the entire grape plant. The final foliar dressing of grapes can be carried out on the basis of the infusion of wood ash. The introduction of such dressings, as well as spraying the bushes with fungicides and insecticides, is carried out in the afternoon, when the temperature drops, the sun cannot burn the leaves and inflorescences or in cloudy weather. The longer the drops of the product remain on the greens, the greater the effect of the procedure.

How to treat grapes after rains, when fungicides and solutions of trace elements are washed off?

In the case of severe precipitation, the treatment is repeated as soon as possible, paying attention to spraying the bushes with Ridomil, especially during the period when the flowering has already been completed, and the likelihood of mildew development is high.

No less dangerous disease for grapes is powdery mildew, which often develops in dry hot weather. The first preventive treatment against this disease is carried out in the spring. If a light white fluff is found on shoots, foliage and berries, at the initial stage, treatment of grapes with soda and potassium permanganate in the form of a slightly pink solution will become a rather effective remedy for powdery mildew.

At the same time, do not forget that the effectiveness of dressings and remedies is really high if all the rules for growing and caring for grapes are followed, weeds and excess shoots are removed in time, air and food are provided to all shoots.

All about planting and growing grapes - video