Currant planting and care in the open field in the Urals

Currants are good for everyone: they are beautiful, tasty and do not require special care. Know yourself, remove the weeds, and put the berries in your mouth. For which gardeners love it, growing almost everywhere, from the Kuban to Siberia. But, you can significantly increase the yield, provide yourself with berries, and sell the surplus. True, for this it is necessary to select suitable varieties, and strictly observe agricultural technology. Read our article and find out how to surprise yourself and your neighbors with rich currant crops.

There is a rule: "To fix something, you need to know how it works." This also applies to the cultivation of currants: in order to achieve high yields, you need to know the biological characteristics of the plant. There are three types of currants:

• black;
• red;
• golden.

The species are similar in principles of agricultural technology and biological characteristics. As part of the article, we will consider black currants, and we will tell you the nuances of growing red as necessary.

Biological features of currants

Currant is a perennial shrub whose height does not exceed 1.5-2 m. A feature of the plant is the absence of buds on the roots.

Take a look at the image. The growth of basal shoots (1) begins from the zone of the root collar (6). It is in this way that a currant bush is formed, because it does not give growth. The next year, after the emergence of zero-order shoots, two-year-old branches (2) appear, then three-year branches (3).

This feature of the currant must be taken into account when planting a bush.

Root collar

should be about 10 cm below the soil surface.

In this case, many shoots of the zero order appear, the bush is easier to form, and over time it is possible to rejuvenate without problems. Most gardeners do not know about this, and many Internet resources do not provide such information. Meanwhile, the correct location of the root collar of the bush is the key to the strength of the plant and a bountiful harvest.

Features of the development of stems

Currants differ in the nature of the development of the stem. Conventionally, the plant can be divided into three groups:

1. Many annual branches, but few perennial ones. In the currants of this group, the fruits live for a year or two, then they die, and new ones are formed in their place. After 4-5 years, new fruit branches stop forming and yield decreases.The situation can be corrected by pruning branches older than 4 years "per ring". The most famous variety of black currant of this species is September Daniel.
2. There are few basal shoots, but perennial stems branch well. Fruits on such bushes live for a long time, on average 4-5 years, therefore the bush bears fruit for 6-7 years. If the branch is older, the fruits on it become smaller, the yield decreases. The solution to the problem is the annual cutting of 2-3 perennial branches. This stimulates the growth and development of basal shoots, the bush is updated in a timely manner, the yield does not decrease. A variety of this type is Pamyat Michurin.
3. In this group, the varieties occupying an average "position" between the previous ones. In other words, both the number of basal shoots and the degree of their branching have an average value. The fruiting period is 5-6 years. It can be increased by shortening the branches to the first strong bud. One of these varieties is Success.

In the picture you can see how fruits are formed on branches of different ages in black currant.

As for the red currant, it has more durable fruits. Subject to agricultural technology, red currants give a greater yield than black currants for 8-10 years. Pruning is mainly aimed not at rejuvenating the bush, but at reducing the degree of thickening.

Currant morphogenesis

If you are scared and decide to quickly scroll through this item - we hasten to reassure you. We will not tell you all the biological subtleties. But knowing the timing of the morphogenesis of currants and what it affects will help to take the necessary measures in a timely manner to increase yields.

Scientists have found that the process of laying a crop begins a year before fruiting. This year, the yield will depend on how the currant developed in the last season. And it is morphogenesis (kidney differentiation) that is the most important stage. The timing of the process is different, depending on the following factors:

• type and variety of currants;
• air temperature;
• the amount of precipitation;
• the number of sunny and cloudy days;
• other conditions.

It was found that in dry and sunny weather, morphogenesis proceeds faster than in cloudy and rainy ones. According to the timing, we can only say for sure that the beginning of kidney differentiation is from July 12, and the end is in the spring of next year. In some years, morphogenesis can begin in early August.

Surprisingly, it is during this period that most inexperienced gardeners calm down and limit themselves only to weeding and waiting for the harvest. Meanwhile, efforts must be redoubled and the observance of agricultural practices must be monitored.

Currant bushes should receive the required amount of nutrients, water, light. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. Disease-damaged or underdeveloped leaves do not provide high-quality photosynthesis. The significance of this process for plant life is known from the school course in biology.

Different types of currants

Check out the main modern currant varieties of different types. You can enlarge the photo by clicking and view everything in more detail. The varieties listed below are approved by VNIISPK and zoned.

Smolyaninovskaya currant

One of the few modern varieties that have white fruits. As a result of selection, scientists have obtained a shrub that not only possesses such unusual berries, but also has a high resistance to diseases.

The Smolyaninovskaya variety is easy to care for, it is not afraid of frost, the berries are juicy, with a characteristic sourness. At the same time, a good yield was achieved: if you follow agricultural techniques, then you will receive up to 5 kg of harvest from one bush! It is possible to grow this variety in open ground in the Urals, the Volga region and in the central regions of Russia.

Currant varieties Karaidel

The variety is intended for cultivation in the Urals, but is also suitable for other regions of Russia. The bush is compact, it is not difficult to care for it. Of the amenities - a low degree of infection with fungal diseases, winter hardiness.

The berries are large enough, fragrant, with dense pulp. There are few seeds, you can safely use it for making jams. The only drawback is that it requires regular pruning due to the strong growth of basal shoots.

Dutch red currant

One of the oldest currant varieties. It is known that it was grown in Europe as early as the 17th century. The currant bush is high, the crown density is increased, but at the same time not very spreading. Fruits are dense, with a characteristic sour taste. The seeds are dense, large, therefore the main purpose of the variety is processing and conservation.

Dutch red currant has excellent resistance to fungal diseases. The plant is suitable for growing outdoors in the Northwestern regions of Russia, but it does not take root well in the Urals or Kuban.

Currant Krasa Altai

Are you looking for a variety of currants that can be grown outdoors in the Urals and Siberia? Pay attention to the Beauty of Altai. The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and some pests, but, with timely preventive treatments, it will delight you with yield.

The variety perfectly tolerates severe frosts, self-pollinates. A pleasant addition - the berries are firmly adhered to the branches and, after ripening, do not crumble. At the same time, the taste of currants is pleasant, with a slight sourness. Suitable for food both fresh and for preservation.

Currant Ural beauty

Despite the fact that the variety is zoned for Western Siberia, it is successfully grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region and in other regions of Russia. The variety attracts gardeners with its high yield and large, sweet berries. The Ural beauty tolerates severe frosts well, and the medium-sized size of the bush facilitates the process of caring for the plant.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a weak resistance to some pests. You can fight them, and successfully. Subject to the recommended agricultural practices, the variety will delight you with regular and abundant harvests.

We have described for you only some of the modern varieties of currants. If you are interested in earlier breeding, which were cultivated in the USSR, see the table.

Belarusian sweet	Average	Black, large, weighing 1-1.2 g	High	2.5-3 kg / bush
Grape	Early	Black, large, weight 1.3 g	Excellent	3-6 kg / bush
Leningrad giant	Average	Black, with a thin skin, weighing 1.2-2.2 g	Good	3-5 kg ​​/ bush
Stakhanovka Altai	Average	Black, dull, do not crumble, weight 0.7-0.9 g	High	1.5-3 kg / bush
Chulkovskaya	Early	Red, small, weighing 0.4 g	Average	4-6 kg / bush
Sugar red	Early	Juicy, sweet, weighing up to 1 g	High	4 kg / bush
Versailles white	Average	Yellow, transparent, large, weight up to 1.5 g.	Average	3-4 kg / bush

Remember that you need to buy currant seedlings of any kind in nurseries. Buying at the market or from a "familiar gardener" is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The fact is that some pathogens and parasites of currants have an incubation period of 1-2 years. Outwardly, the seedling may look healthy, but after a while the disease will manifest itself. When buying planting material in nurseries, there is no such risk.

Currant planting rules

The yield of any kind of currant depends on the conditions in which it grows. The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• the site is flat, or a small slope (no more than 50);
• planting on hills or depressions is not recommended: in the first case, the plant will suffer from cold wind, in the second - from the accumulation of cold air;
• any soil, but their acidity is not lower than 4.5 pH;
• the depth of the groundwater is at least 1 m.

Having found a suitable place, proceed to the next stage. Remove all weeds, apply fertilizer to the soil according to the following scheme:

• manure or compost - a bucket per square meter;
• lime - 2-6 kg / m2 (dosage depends on the pH level);
• superphosphate - 500-700 g / 10 m2;
• potash salt - 200 g / 10 m2.

After fertilizing, dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel. Remember that soil preparation should be done approximately 2 months before planting.

The size of the planting pits depends on the quality of the soil. The optimal values ​​are 40x40 cm, if the land is scarce in nutrients - do not be lazy and dig large holes. The currant will thank you with enhanced growth and high yields.

You can see the layout schemes in the table.

Single	1	1,8-2
Tape	0,6-0,8	2

The belt scheme has an advantage over the single one: already in the first years, the yield increases significantly. The disadvantage of this method is that fungi and viruses are actively developing in a thickened environment, which requires additional care. The choice of the currant planting scheme is up to you.

Plants can be planted in the fall, but the best survival rate is obtained with spring planting. The seedlings need to be prepared. How to do it?

Cuttings must be kept in water at a temperature of 460C for 13-15 minutes. The purpose of this procedure is to kill the currant kidney mite. Be careful about the water temperature, lower values ​​will not give the desired result, higher ones will ruin the cuttings.

Purchased seedlings need to be pruned, if this was not done in the nursery. Leave 3-4 buds on the branches, remove the rest. This activity stimulates the development of the bush in the first years of life. See the photo for an example, the branches to be removed are marked in red.

Now you can start planting currants. Make a soil mixture using the following recipe:

• a bucket of soil;
• humus bucket;
• 200 g of phosphate fertilizers;
• 40 g of potassium preparations.

Mix well and pour on the bottom of the planting hole. To protect the roots of currants from burns with fertilizers - make a small mound of clean earth on top of the mixture. As a result, you should have a mound at the bottom of the hole.

Now you can proceed directly to planting:

1. Pour a bucket of water into each well to form a liquid mud.
2. Place the seedlings. An important condition: they should be located at an angle, and the root collar is 8-10 cm below the soil surface. This planting stimulates the rapid development of basal shoots. We wrote about this at the beginning of the article. If your site has loamy soils, then the depth of the root collar should be no more than 5 cm.
3. Spread the roots, make sure that they do not bend upwards, this will worsen the survival rate.
4. Fill in the soil and compact it so that there are no voids around the roots. At this stage, it is important not to overdo it, so control yourself. Just tug lightly on the seedling: it should not be pulled out, but also not "sit" firmly in the ground.

Water the plant well for the first 5 days after planting. The norm is 3-5 liters per bush. If the weather is rainy, there is no need to water.

Outdoor currant care

Pay special attention to weed control, they must be removed regularly. For the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, loosening must be carried out. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. The depth of loosening at a distance of 30 cm from the bush is 4-6 cm, further 30 cm - up to 12 cm. This technique, in addition, will not allow weeds to multiply. In the early years, you can grow lettuce or dill between rows.

Don't forget about mulching. It will help to retain moisture, protect against weeds, and increase yields. Use humus, peat, foliage, or plastic wrap. The width of the mulched circle in the first years of the life of the currant is 50-70 cm, later - 1.25 m. The thickness of the mulch is 4-5 cm.

As for watering, it is necessary during dry periods, during the growth of the bush, and after harvesting. The norm is 30 l / m2. Remember, if the year is rainy, you do not need to water the currants.

Fertilizers and fertilizers for currants

Do you want to increase the yield of currants by 30%, or even 50%? This is possible if fertilizers and feeding are applied correctly. In the first year, if you planted the plant according to the rules, the seedlings do not need to be fertilized.Enough application of urea, in a concentration of 0.3% - this will improve the development of the seedling in the growth phase.

Starting from the second year of the currant's life, begin to apply fertilizers. Remember that in early summer, the plant requires nitrogen fertilization to stimulate leaf growth and increase ovary formation. Towards the end of summer, especially after harvest, when morphogenesis is most active, the currants need potash fertilizers. For drugs and their dosage, see the table.

1-3 years	Ammonium nitrate	100-100
	Superphosphate	200-300
	Potassium nitrate	100-150
4 years and older	Ammonium nitrate	200-400
	Superphosphate	300-600
	Potassium nitrate	150-300

Ammonium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer, superphosphate is a phosphorus fertilizer. This information will help you determine when to apply. These substances can be added both in dry form and in solutions; the method will not affect the effectiveness.

Important:

Try not to use potassium salts: currants react badly to them. For red currants, it is generally better to replace mineral potash fertilizers by adding wood ash in the same dose.

Organics can also be used as root feeding:

• slurry - dilute with water 5-6 times;
• bird droppings - diluted with water 10-12 times.

Not only dosage and timing affect the effectiveness of fertilizer use. What matters is how they are entered. For example, if you simply dig up the soil along with the preparations, they will remain in the top layer of the soil. Roots that are deeply located will not receive nutrients. Therefore, this method can be used with a single landing pattern.

Better results are obtained by the method that our grandfathers used. Dig circular holes along the projection of the bush. They should be narrow, but at least 25 cm deep. After applying top dressing, cover the holes with earth.

A good result when growing currants in the open field is given by foliar dressing, which is carried out by spraying. We recommend using one of two recipes:

1. 1.3 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water - spray the plants in the flowering phase.
2. 30 g of ammonium and 25 g of potassium nitrate, 100 g of superphosphate, 10 liters of water - for spraying bushes.

Top dressing is done early in the morning, it is desirable that the leaf is wet. You cannot hold such events at lunchtime: you can burn the foliage.

Mineral fertilizers are good, but don't forget about organics. The introduction of humus, peat, compost as top dressing will not only provide the plant with the necessary substances, but also enrich the soil with beneficial bacteria. Such feeding should be carried out every two years, in late autumn.

Currant pruning

We already spoke about the technique partly at the beginning of the article, now in more detail. The purpose of pruning is sanitary and bush formation. The yield of the plant largely depends on how correctly the currant pruning was done. What do you need to pay attention to?

1. You have already pruned the branches when planting. Now you need to choose and leave two or three powerful root shoots every year, remove the rest. This will create a strong and productive shrub.
2. Cut the left branches to ¼ of the original length.
3. Cut branches that are more than 5 years old. It is easy to get ahead of them: the tops of the shoots dry out, the growths are weak.
4. Prune diseased branches in time.

For red currants, the pruning technique is the same. The exception is on two-year-old shoots and older, the tops cannot be cut off.

How can currant propagate

Have you bought a currant, got your first harvest and thought about how to propagate the bushes? Use a vegetative method, it is he who allows you to preserve the parental qualities of the plant.

1. Woody cuttings.
2. Green cuttings.
3. Green apical cuttings.
4. Layers.

Each method has its own nuances, we will tell you about them, and you choose the technique at your discretion.

Propagation by woody cuttings

The method impresses with its simplicity and worthy results. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology.Read carefully and memorize.

1. Select the bottom or middle part of the annual branch. The length of the harvested cutting should be 15-20 cm, thickness - 6 mm. The number of buds on the handle is 4-5 pcs. Material procurement time is the second half of September.
2. Place the cut material in a container with wet sand and place it in the basement. If possible, the cuttings can be kept under the snow, this method of wooding is preferable.
3. Treat the cuttings with root growth promoters before planting in spring. Use "Kornevin" - 5g / 5L or heteroauxin - 100-150 g per liter of water. Keep the cuttings in the solution for a day, while they should be 2/3 immersed in the liquid. The air temperature should not be lower than 230C.
4. Transplant the cuttings into potting soil. After about 12 days, seals will appear on the bottom, which signal that the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.
5. While the cuttings are in the pots, prepare the soil at the planting site. To do this, add 8 kg of compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of wood ash for each square meter. Dig up and moisten the soil.
6. Cuttings should be planted in early spring at an angle of 450, leaving one bud on the surface. This planting contributes to the rapid growth of the root system. The distance between the cuttings in a row is 10 cm, the row spacing is 25 cm.
7. An important condition is abundant irrigation after planting in the amount of 30 liters of water per square meter.

A good result is obtained by planting cuttings under a film. To do this, spread the material over the garden bed, dig in the edges. The planting pattern with this method is 8x15 cm. To get rid of weeds that can grow under the film, sprinkle the aisles with earth in the summer.

With this method of propagation, the bush is obtained with one stem. To get several branches - pinch the top as soon as it grows 8 cm. You will get 2-3 shoots.

Propagation by green cuttings

One of the simple and reliable breeding methods, which is suitable for both a novice hobbyist and an experienced gardener. Cutting is carried out as soon as the desired shoots reach a length of 20 cm. This usually occurs by mid-summer, but the timing for each region is different. To have a clear idea of ​​the method - see the schematic image.

1. Select branches that are 2 years old with developed second-order shoots (1).
2. Cut the cuttings according to the scheme, the lower leaves can be removed.
3. Remember that there should be a small patch of 2-year-old wood on the bottom.
4. Plant in the ground (3), the distance between the cuttings is 5 cm, in the row spacing is 15 cm. The planting depth is 3-7 cm, but the longer the cutting, the greater the value.
5. Water abundantly, about 3-4 times at knocks. In case of heat - 5-7 times.

Further care of cuttings consists in timely weeding, loosening and fight against diseases.

An interesting way is used by some gardeners, we hasten to share it with you. The technology is the same, but the cuttings are grown not outdoors, but indoors under plastic wrap stretched over arcs. Gauze is pulled from above to protect the plant from sunburn. Before closing the bed, it is watered abundantly.

Now you can rest for 15 days. Watering the cuttings is carried out by means of condensation, and the increased air temperature contributes to the rapid rooting of the cuttings. A month after planting, remove the film and continue to grow young bushes in the usual way.

Propagation by green apical cuttings

The method is rather complicated; special equipment is required. To implement it, a greenhouse or greenhouse and a fogging installation are required. This technology is available to specialized gardens and nurseries, so let's talk about it briefly.

Cuttings are planted in a specially prepared substrate consisting of soil and peat in a 1: 1 ratio. Then, using the installation, a fog is created, the humidity of the air must be at least 90%.With this method, the cuttings take root after 2 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

The method is simple, it is often used. It is based on the ability of currants to "put down" roots from shoots. The technology is simple:

1. In early spring, bend annual shoots to the ground, fix them with wooden spears, as shown in the figure.
2. As soon as the shoots grow 10 cm, make the first hilling 4 cm thick. The soil must be moist.
3. After 20 days, repeat the hilling, the layer thickness is 10 cm.
4. In the fall, cut off the shoot from the base of the bush, select the strongest shoots and transplant to a permanent place. Do not touch weak shoots, let them grow.

The survival rate of cuttings is high, you can easily propagate the variety you like.

Diseases and pests of currants

Even modern varieties of currants of different types can be damaged by diseases or diseases.

See tables for signs and treatments.

Currant pests

Currant kidney mite	The kidneys enlarge, become rounded. In the spring they are deformed, take the form of a head of cabbage. Leaves and inflorescences are not formed.	1. Wood cuttings are disinfected with hot water (read the article), green cuttings with black tea. 2. Before flowering treatment of buds with karbofos (30g / 10 l of water). 3. Spraying the bushes with garlic infusion (100 g / 10 l). 4. To destroy heavily affected bushes.
Spider mite	Damages foliage, which first brightens, then turns brown and falls	Treatment, as in the case of a currant mite. Prevention - timely cleaning of fallen leaves
Gooseberry shoot aphid	The leaves on the tops of the branches curl, the young shoots are curved.	Spraying with nitrafen (300g / 10 l). Infusion of tobacco 400 g / 10 l.
Willow shield	Larvae appear and firmly attach to the bark. As a result, the branches weaken and can dry out.	Nitrafen treatment 300 g / 10 l.
Leafy currant gall midge	The parasite larvae eat the leaves. Damages appear, the leaves turn brown and dry.	Prevention: mulching with peat and autumn digging of the soil. Treatment: 0.3% karbofos emulsion.
Stem currant gall midge	The parasite larvae destroy branches and young shoots.	The measures are the same as for leaf gall midge. Re-processing after harvest is needed.
Currant kidney moth	The caterpillars of the parasite are red or green in color, the head is black. They bite into the buds of currants and eat them away from the inside.	Timely cutting of dry branches and stumps, followed by burning. Treatment of the bush with a nitrafen solution (300 g / 10 l).
Gooseberry moth	Caterpillars of the butterfly are dark green in color, the head is black. They parasitize the fruits of black currant.	Hilling currants in the fall with a layer of soil up to 10 cm. Spraying with infusions of wormwood or tobacco.

Currant diseases and their treatment

Powdery mildew	A light white bloom appears on the shoots and fruits. Further, it thickens, changes color to brown. Leaves and shoots stop growing and die.	Spraying before flowering with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g / 10 l) After flowering, 4-fold treatment of the bushes with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g / 10 l each). In case of severe damage, spraying with colloidal sulfur 1% (50 g / 10 l).
Terry black currant	Leaves lengthen, become asymmetrical, the number of veins decreases. The inflorescences become purple in color. The bushes are thickened.	Purchase planting material from nurseries. Destroy diseased bushes. There are no effective control measures.
Anthracnose	Yellow spots appear on the leaves and shoots, which change color to brown. Over time, the lesions grow and merge. The leaves take on the appearance of burnt and fall off. Brown bumps may appear on the berries.	Prevention: timely collection and destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment of planting material with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g / 10 l). For treatment, spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid 1%.Two-time processing: before flowering and after harvesting.

Red currants are not affected by the described pests and are less sick. But, if suddenly a disease has arisen, the control measures are the same.

Conclusion

Now you know not only how to plant currants, but also the basics of proper care for a high yield.

Note that many modern varieties may have slightly different requirements for agricultural technology, so check the nuances of care when buying seedlings.

When writing the article, the following literature was used:

1. Shaumyan K.V., Kolesnikov E.V. 'Yagodniki' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1981 - p. 64.
2. Glebova E.I., Dankov V.V., Skripchenko M.M. 'Berry Garden' - Leningrad: Lenizdat, 1990 - p. 205

If you still have any questions - ask in the comments, we will answer them. Did you like the article? Share it with your friends on social networks.

Currant is a resident of almost every vegetable garden. And novice gardeners are sure to try to grow this bush in their summer cottage. And also currants, planting and care in the open field for which are quite simple, looks very beautiful and has a lot of useful properties.

Currant - planting and care in the open field

Currant - a universal berry

This berry is familiar to everyone from childhood, but few people know its botanical description. For a gardener, this information will be quite interesting. So, currants are a whole genus of perennial shrubs that belong to the Gooseberry family. It unites almost 200 species, of which about 50 are widely distributed in nature in Asia, North America, and Europe. A huge number of wild species of this berry shrub are found in the Siberian region of Russia, and only 3 of them grow in the European part of the country.

The structure of the currant bush

Currant is a shrub with shoots up to 2 m high, richly decorated with carved lobed leaves of 3-5 lobes of rather large sizes (up to 12 cm). The color of the leaf plate is dark green on the outside, and lighter on the inside, with a light edging along the veins. Currants bush very well, because every spring more and more young stems appear from dormant buds.

Black currant on the site

On a note! Currant leaves have a special aroma that everyone is familiar with. That is why they are often dried and added to tea and seasonings. And the aroma is emitted by special golden-colored glands located along the edges of the leaf plate.

The root system of the currant bush is fibrous, quite lush, penetrating deep into the ground by about 20-60 cm.Currant flowers are small bell-shaped buds, each having 5 sepals and collected in racemose inflorescences of several pieces, which can have a different color, including white , red of different shades, pink, yellow. The flowering period begins in May-June and lasts until June-July, although, depending on the region, it may start later and will also end later.

Currant root system

The fruit is a very juicy and aromatic round berry. Its color and size directly depend on the type and variety of the bush, and the taste can be sour or sweet-sour. The color of the fruit varies from transparent white to black, it is red, yellowish-golden. Fruiting begins around July-August, while about 2 years should pass from the moment the currants are planted in open ground.

Currant fruits

Currant is one of the most popular horticultural crops, which is grown in garden plots along with gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries. It owes its popularity not only to its unique taste, but also to other properties. It is very useful as it contains a lot of vitamins and minerals necessary for health. Various dishes are prepared from this berry, added to teas and decoctions, natural food colors are made on the basis of blackcurrant juice.

Currants are also used in folk medicine for the prevention of diseases of the circulatory and nervous systems, as well as malignant tumors, diabetes, and visual impairment. It has a positive effect on mental abilities, fights varicose veins, and is effective in kidney diseases.

Currant tea is not only tasty, but also healthy

On a note! Due to its enormous economic value, currants are grown not only in summer cottages, but also on an industrial scale. And the largest producer of this berry in the world is Russia.

Varietal variety

Currants, which can be found in private summer cottages, are divided into three main types: black, white, red. Each of them has its own characteristics and qualities.

1. Black currantis perhaps the most common variety of this berry. It is she who is found in almost every horticultural site in Russia, Europe, Mongolia. In nature, it grows mainly in forests and near water bodies. The blackcurrant bush is powerful, branched, with a shoot height of up to 2 m, which at a young age have a green color, but then change it to brown, lignify at the base. You can eat fragrant berries from the middle of summer. They are quite large, fragrant, and have a sour-sweet taste.

   Black currant

   Fruiting black currant

2. Red Ribes - also one of the most common species in horticulture. The bushes are slightly smaller than those of black currants. Sour berries have a transparent shell and a bright red color, and are smaller in size than black currants (8-12 mm).

   Red Ribes

3. White currant in the European part, it is almost never found, its bush has a height of up to 1.5 m. The berries are sweet and sour, have a yellowish tint, a transparent skin through which the seeds are clearly visible. Fruit size is 6-10 mm.

   White currant

There are some more features that distinguish black, red and white currant species from each other. For example, black currant has the most fragrant leaves. White and red smells much weaker. The fact is that the leaves of the black berry contain more essential oils. The most sour fruits are in red and white currants, black in terms of taste is much sweeter than the previous species. Also the first two produce more watery berries.

On a note! Black currant is in the lead by the content of vitamins in berries. For example, it contains 4 times more vitamin C than red or white, despite the fact that they are more acidic.

The types of currants also differ in the methods of reproduction: for example, red and white are usually propagated by dividing the bush, but black by cuttings. At the same time, the first two species can not be transplanted for 15-20 years, while the place of residence of the black one should change every 6-7 years. But on the other hand, such varieties are less susceptible to diseases.

Currant

Table. Currant varieties.

Dessert	White	It has large berries of a delicate creamy shade.
Versailles white	White	Produces large berries weighing up to 1.5 g. Fruit color is yellowish-white, transparent. Average winter hardiness.
Primus	White	Not afraid of cold weather, the berries are yellowish and very juicy, sweet.
Valentinovka	Red	Produces very large berries, but only at the end of the season.
Chulkovskaya	Red	Early maturing, abundantly fruiting variety. Gives small red berries. The mass of one fruit is 0.4 g.
Darnitsa	Red	Bears fruit abundantly, is not afraid of transportation and transplants. Berries are medium in size.
Sofievskaya	Black	Begins to bear fruit early, gives sweet-sour oval-shaped berries. There are a lot of them on the bush.
Ariadne	Black	The harvest from the bush can be rich. Ariadne has excellent immunity, begins to bear fruit in the middle of summer, is not afraid of cold weather, winters well.
Belarusian sweet	Black	Winters well. Bears abundantly. The berries are blue-black in color, large, the weight of one fruit is up to 1.2 g.

Smolyaninovskaya currant

Currant varieties Karaidel

Dutch red currant

Currant Krasa Altai

Currant Ural beauty

To be sure that the seedlings or cuttings of currants are exactly the species that are planned to be grown in the garden area, and also to know for sure that the plants are healthy, you should buy them only in specialized nurseries with documents. In the markets, under the guise of one variety, they can sell a completely different one, and you can also run into diseased plants. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to understand this immediately - some diseases have an incubation period of about 2 years. And outwardly, the plant will be full of strength and health.

Currant seedlings

Currants bear fruit most actively if a lot of bushes grow on the site (about 10 different species). But not every gardener has the opportunity to plant a plant in such quantities. That is why it is very important to choose the variety carefully in order to get a good harvest. In this case, the climatic conditions of the region, the timing of flowering and fruiting of plants, the harvest period, the possibility of proper planting care are taken into account. It is also good to form plantings of currants from bushes with different periods of fruiting - then the berry can be enjoyed for the longest possible period, sometimes almost all summer.

On a note! Medium-early cold-resistant red varieties Niva, Konstantinovskaya, Bayana, black ones - Lucia, Sadko, Nara, which belong to large-fruited species, have shown themselves well in parts of Russia.

Black currant Bagheera

Currant planting rules

How well the currant will bear fruit depends largely on the growing conditions. The basic rules for planting this culture are as follows.

1. The place for the bushes should be flat, sunny, because currants are a photophilous plant. Also, do not plant it in lowlands or hills, otherwise the plant will suffer from excess cold air or wind.
2. The acidity of the soil (pH) on the site must be at least 4.5. Currant loves loam and sandy loam very much.
3. Aquifers in the soil layer should not be closer to the surface than 1 m.
4. The place where the currants will grow must be cleared of weeds, fertilized at least 2 months before the planned planting of seedlings.

How to grow currants

Advice! A very good fertilizer for the soil for currants is easy to prepare yourself. Compost is added to the soil at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m2, potash salt (20 g / 1 m2), lime (2-6 kg / m2), superphosphate (50-70 g / 1 m2). After introducing the complex, the soil is well dug to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

When is it better to plant currants - in spring or autumn? Experienced gardeners differ in this regard. But since the plant begins to revive in the spring after winter and grows early, it is recommended to form plantings in early autumn, in September. Although currants take root much better in spring, they need to be planted before the beginning of the sap flow period.

In this case, the pits for planting are prepared in advance. They can be made according to two schemes - tape and single. In the first case, the distance between the seedlings is about 60-80 cm, in the second - 1 m. The row spacing is maintained with a strip pattern of about 2 m, with a single one - 2 m.

On a note! Most gardeners recommend using the tape scheme - in this case, the yield will be impressive already in the first years. But the immunity of such plantings should be excellent - with strong thickening, the risk of developing diseases is much higher.

Spots on currant leaves - a possible consequence of strong thickening

Pits for currant bushes should have the following dimensions - 50 * 50 * 50 cm. A little wood ash (100-150 g each) is placed at the bottom of each prepared hole, sprinkled with soil. If the soil has not been previously fertilized, then they also put a little superphosphate (also 100-150 g each) and 1-2 buckets of humus. Wells are well spilled with water. Planting of currant bushes is carried out no earlier than 20 days later.

Plants purchased in the nursery, if they have not been cut off, must be pruned before planting, leaving 3-4 buds on the branches. If this procedure has been carried out, then the plant will bush well. Before planting, currant cuttings are kept for 15 minutes in warm water (+46 degrees) - this event is a good prevention of currant mites.

Currant pruning scheme

How to propagate and plant currants

Step 1. The first step is to prepare the holes for the bushes as described above.

Hole preparation

Step 2. Fertilizers are applied to the prepared hole in the required amount, all this is sprinkled with soil and the hole is left for a while.

Fertilizer is applied to the holes

Attention! It is important to sprinkle the fertilizer with soil or compost so that the roots of the plant do not touch the chemicals. Otherwise, the roots may burn.

Step 3. A currant bush is placed inside the hole. The roots are gently spread over the earthen bed. There should be no void between the roots and the ground.

Planting currant bushes

Another photo of the process

Step 4. The root system of the currant bush is covered with earth, slightly tamping the soil.

The root is covered with earth, it is slightly compacted

Step 5. The planted bush is well watered.

Watering the planted currant bush

Step 6. Sprinkle the watered soil a little more with soil and form a small curb of the earth, which will help keep water when watering near the bush.

Formation of a small earthen curb

Step 7. The soil is spilled again, after which the currant shoots are cut so that 4 buds remain. The ratio of the aboveground and underground parts should be the same.

Currant shoots are pruned after re-watering

Video - How to plant black currants

Bush care

Currant is an unpretentious plant, but in order for it to bear fruit well, it, like any garden crop, needs good care. Spring care for currant bushes consists in removing mite-affected shoots, as well as dead plant parts. The bushes dig in, while simultaneously loosening the soil around them. Mulch is applied under each. The soil around the currant bushes should be loosened every 2-3 weeks, but if they have been mulched, then this procedure can be done less often. Also, in the spring, currants are treated for pests.

Spring spraying of currants from pests

In the summer, the currants must be watered and make sure that it is clean between the bushes - they remove garbage and weeds. Periodically, organic fertilizers are applied under the bush.

Attention! If the currants are treated for parasites, but they plan to harvest from it, then these procedures should be stopped about 3 weeks before picking the berries.

Currant diseases and their treatment

Currant pests

In the fall, the bushes continue to be watered, periodically loosen the soil around them. The last feeding is done at the end of September. At the same time, if necessary, the plantings are thinned out, multiplied.

Pruning bushes is extremely important for currants. In spring, pruning stimulates the growth and fruiting of the bush. Be sure to remove all branches that are more than 6 years old, as well as old and diseased shoots

Video - Planting and caring for currants

If you take care of the currant bushes correctly, then the berry harvest will be plentiful and of high quality. It can be sold, or it can be used to prepare all kinds of blanks.

Planting and caring for black currants requires certain knowledge and skills. To get a rich harvest, it is important to comply with all the recommendations for planting and caring for young blackcurrant seedlings as much as possible.

Planting black currant

Blackcurrant bushes are planted in spring or autumn. In the spring, the process is carried out before the sap begins to move in the plant and the buds open. In the autumn, the crop is planted in the ground in September or October.Autumn is considered the ideal time for planting currants, because a plant planted at this time of the year actively grows in spring.

Soil selection

The culture is considered unpretentious in terms of soil and a certain area in the garden. It will thrive well in the sun, in the shade and on wet soils (they should not be waterlogged).

However, it is better to find the optimal comfortable place for the shrub in order to get more harvest.

People choose:

1. Fertile land.
2. Protected from the wind.
3. A place with enough space, but a bit darkened as well.
4. Allowed to land on a hill.
5. Requires soil with an acidity level of 6 - 6.5 pH.
6. It is not recommended to select too moist soils where groundwater flows close to the surface.
7. You can plant a crop separately from other plants, or you can allocate a place for it between the rows.

How to choose seedlings?

When buying, pay attention to the root system. It should be strong and strong, with two or three main branches up to 25 centimeters long.

There should be no dry and diseased roots with damage. Quality seedlings have fresh, wrinkle-free bark. Pinch off a little bark: if there is a green trunk under it, then the seedling is alive, and if the trunk is brown, you are offered an already dead plant.

Planting instructions

The preparatory work and the planting process itself include the following steps:

1. Dig holes 40 by 40 centimeters in size, about a meter apart.
2. Add a bucket of humus, 150 grams of superphosphate, 300 grams of wood ash, and limestone to the pit.
3. Mix all fertilizer with soil and water.
4. Lower the seedling into the prepared hole, tilting it at an angle of forty-five degrees.
5. Spread out the roots.
6. Cover the root system with an earthen mixture, making sure that all the voids are filled.
7. Pour ordinary earth on top of the hole.
8. Water the planting and mulch.

Spring care

The awakening of black currants from hibernation occurs very early, so the gardener must catch the time before the buds swell in order to get rid of damaged and diseased branches, as well as remove the buds injured by the kidney mite.

In spring, in addition to sanitary pruning, pruning is performed, with the help of which the bush is given the necessary shape. If hilling was carried out before winter, now you need to remove the soil from the trunk circle.

The soil is carefully dug up and covered with mulch with a layer of 5 - 10 centimeters. As a mulch, you can use humus or manure, which is laid out around the plant, observing a distance of 20 centimeters from the branches of the bush. Germinating weeds are promptly removed.

Black currant belongs to moisture-loving crops, so it must be watered regularly, especially in case of snowless winters and dry springs without precipitation. After watering, it is convenient to immediately weed and loosen the soil. Loosening is carried out about two to three times a week, but the mulched soil can be loosened less often.

Since currants wake up early, they are threatened by recurrent spring frosts. Gardeners protect crops from sudden temperature changes with polyethylene film.

After the beginning of flowering, the bush is carefully inspected for the subsequent removal of branches that were struck by terry (the flowers changed shape: instead of bell-shaped ones, they became dividing ones). Supports are installed if the shrub clearly needs them.

Summer care

Summer care includes timely watering, followed by loosening and weeding. At this time, organic fertilizers are applied at the root.

You can resort to spraying the leaves with special foliar fertilizers: currants respond well to such feeding. In different containers, 3 grams of boric acid, 5 grams of potassium permanganate and 40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted in water.

Then all the components are mixed together in 10 liters of water and poured into a bottle with a spray bottle, with which the bushes are thoroughly sprayed. The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening, well processing the leaves on both sides.

If you notice traces of a moth butterfly on the currant, immediately destroy its nests. Be prepared for the invasion of sawflies, from which they are saved by treatment with special preparations, for example, "Aktellik" or "Karbofos".

Two milliliters of Actellic are dissolved in two liters of water. This solution is sufficient for a spray area of ​​ten square meters. A clear sign of the presence of parasites: deformation of the berries and premature staining in a brown color.

In July and August, it is time to harvest a juicy crop. The technology for picking black currants is different from the principles of harvesting red berries.

The fruits of black currant ripen at different times, so the crop is harvested selectively, and not with whole brushes. Select the container carefully. Wide baskets and boxes with a shallow depth are preferred so that the berries do not crumple under their own weight. After the harvest is complete, the bushes are watered abundantly, and after the soil dries, they are carefully loosened.

Autumn care

In September or October, the currants are fed with fertilizers of a mineral or organic nature, then watered abundantly, and then they are dug up so that the fertilizers get into the soil. Autumn time involves the implementation of sanitary pruning.

Remove branches that thicken the shrub. They will serve as an excellent planting material that can be rooted in the fall. At this time, they are planted on a permanent section of the layering, dug in in the spring.

If there is little rainfall in the fall, water it abundantly before winter so that the plant can stock up on life-giving moisture.

Watering features

Black currant grows well in loose soil, which acquires this structure with abundant watering, combined with loosening. If the shrub receives an insufficient amount of moisture, shoots and branches stop growing, the crop becomes smaller and crumbles.

Watering at the beginning of summer, when the bush is actively growing and forming ovaries, is of great importance. During the period when fruits appear, that is, in June and July, great attention should be paid to watering. The soil should be moistened by about 35 - 45 centimeters, that is, to the entire depth of the root system. About 20 - 30 liters of water are consumed per square meter of land.

Around the bush, at a distance of 30 - 40 centimeters from the base, they dig peculiar grooves to a depth of 10 - 15 centimeters. If the currants are planted in rows, furrows can be made along the row spacing.

Water is poured into these grooves and beards during irrigation. After the soil dries up, it is loosened. The mulched area has to be loosened, weeded and watered much less often.

Nuances of feeding

In the planting season, if the hole was prepared according to all the rules, additional feeding will not be required. Starting from the second year of growth, it is necessary to add 40-50 grams of urea under each bush.

You can treat the bushes themselves with a 7% concentration of urea solution, but only before the juices begin to move through the plant. Adult shrubs, which are more than four years old, are fertilized with less urea. Under each bush, 25 to 40 grams of urea is applied, distributing this volume into two doses.

In the autumn, they resort to the use of organic fertilizers, applying 10-15 kilograms of manure, compost or poultry droppings per crop. From fertilizers of a mineral nature, 10 - 20 grams of potassium sulfate and 50 grams of superphosphate are consumed for each plant.

If in the spring the site was mulched with organic fertilizer, in the fall, the application of this type of fertilizer can be neglected. In the case when the currants were fed with humus in the fall, nitrogen fertilization is passed in the spring.

How to prune black currants?

The newly planted plants are shortened so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. On a culture that has been growing for the second year, from three to five of the strongest and most powerful shoots should remain, which in the future will form the skeleton of the bush. The remaining small and weak branches are cut off.

In the middle of the growing season, that is, in the summer, pinching is carried out on exactly two buds. This is necessary so that new shoots grow actively and fruit branches appear. In three-year and four-year-old bushes, currants are left from three to six of the strongest branches, the rest are removed.

The tips of the shoots that grew last year are pinched. When the fourth year of the life of the currant culture comes to an end, the bush is considered an adult and fully formed. After the fifth year, the plant requires anti-aging pruning, which consists in cutting out the oldest shoots.

If in the spring you have done all the necessary pruning, in the fall you only have to remove the damaged and diseased branches, that is, to carry out pruning for sanitary and thinning purposes.

If in the spring it was not possible to carry out all the measures, prune according to the above scheme in the fall, when the currants have lost all their leaves. Dried branches are allowed to be removed at any time of the year, but it is recommended to pinch the tops in the middle of summer. For pruning, use sterile pruning shears, garden knives or brush cutters.

Reproduction

You can propagate a culture in several ways: by cuttings, layering and dividing the bush. With the help of seeds, you can also grow a new bush, but there is no guarantee that it will inherit all the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. In addition, this method takes much longer than the ones listed above.

Cuttings

Cuttings are most often used to get a new currant bush. Shoots of the first year of life, growing at the very roots, are suitable for making cuttings. Cut the cuttings 15 to 20 centimeters long, making sure that the branches are at least 7 millimeters thick.

The process is recommended to be carried out in the fall, when the culture is already immersed in a dormant period. Using sterile garden shears, the cutting is trimmed one and a half centimeters above the bud.

In the same autumn, the cuttings are placed in the ground. If during this period it is not possible to find a new place for future young plants, planting can be postponed until spring.

The ends of the planting material should be dipped in a garden pitch, the cuttings should be tied together, put in damp paper and plastic wrap, and then stored in the refrigerator or buried in the snow.

In spring, cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology that applies to adult currants. A polyethylene greenhouse is being built over them and waiting for rooting. Cuttings, which already have roots, are regularly watered, preventing the soil from drying out. As soon as they have one or two shoots, the cuttings are moved to a permanent place.

Layers

The method of propagation with the help of layering is considered the simplest and most effective, since the gardener manages to obtain seedlings with a strong root system in just a year.

In early spring, next to the currant bush, dig a hole 10 centimeters deep. On the side of the bush, select a powerful, healthy branch that is already two years old, lower it to the ground and place the middle of the branch in the hole, making sure that 20-30 centimeters of the shoot remain above the surface.

To prevent the escape from getting out of the ground, fix it with a wire and cover it with soil. The cuttings need to be watered regularly, then by the fall it will have a developed root system and two thick branches. Such a strong young plant can be separated from an adult bush and planted in a new place.

Dividing the bush

They are engaged in dividing the bush in the spring or autumn, when they are going to transplant an adult specimen.The bush is removed from the ground and, using a sterile ax, is divided into several parts. Each division must have a developed and powerful root system and strong shoots.

Places of cuts are treated with charcoal, young shoots are shortened by 30 centimeters, and diseased and damaged roots are removed. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered abundantly. The harvest from such young plants can be obtained after a year.

Black currant is considered a relatively unpretentious plant, therefore, with a minimum amount of effort, you can get a rich harvest of sweet and healthy berries.

Black currant is the most common berry in the gardens and vegetable gardens of compatriots. It is a perennial shrub from the gooseberry family. The berry is appreciated for its taste, beneficial properties and ease of self-cultivation.

Planting and caring for black currants in the open field it is not difficult, since the shrub grows to a height of 1.5 m, and it yields in the second year after planting. Breeders have bred many varieties of shrubs that differ in taste, shape, size of fruits and brushes, and ripening time.

Black currant is resistant to fungal diseases and low temperatures, unpretentious to growing conditions. Fruit ripening begins in June and lasts until the end of July.

Types and varieties of black currant

Gardeners give the greatest preference to varieties of currants, which ripen early and have large berries. The most common varieties include:

Little Prince

- early maturing species, bears fruit abundantly and regularly. The shrub does not reach high sizes, which is convenient for harvesting. Fruits on tassels are densely arranged, ripen at the same time, which makes them easier to pick. The berries are bright black, juicy, with a thin skin and a pleasant sweet and sour taste. This variety is resistant to severe frosts, long droughts and various diseases.

Bagheera

Is a late-ripening sweet berry with a bountiful harvest. The fruits are evenly spaced on the tassels and are of the same size. The berries have a thin, firm skin and a pronounced sweet taste. The variety is frost-resistant, but, despite this, shoots can freeze through if frost and thaw often alternate during the wintering period. The species is resistant to terry and anthracnose diseases, but can be infected with powdery mildew.

In addition, there are other subgroups of numerous varieties, where they distinguish:

• large-fruited varieties include the following varieties: Krasa Lvova, Chereshnevaya, Dobrynya, Comfort, Sanuta and others;
• varieties of early ripe currants: Yarinka, Overture, Golubichka, Dikovinka, Exotic, Dachnitsa, Sibylla and others;
• dessert varieties include: Maria, Perun, Centaur, Venus, Slastena and others;
• the sweetest varieties are: Pearl, Raisin, Black Boomer, Legend, Lazy.

There are other types of berries - these are red and white currants... They differ in color and are considered one culture. Red currant has become known in Russia since the 15th century, white - at the beginning of the last century.

They differ not only in taste, but also in useful properties. Bushes of these species are unpretentious in growth and care, resistant to diseases and damage. They can bear fruit for 15-20 years without a transplant.

Currant care in spring

In the spring, gardeners resume caring for their garden, including currants - they prepare them for summer fruiting. Question, how to care for currants, worries all summer residents.

Here pruning of the bush is very relevant, when dry branches, old ones are removed, the general density of the bush is thinned out. The essence of the presented process is to free up space for annual shoots and enhance the growth of basal cuttings.

Pruning in spring leads not only to the formation of a bush, but also guarantees a high yield. In currants, branches of three to four years of age bear fruit.If they are older, there will be no harvest, and cutting off old branches leads to the growth of new shoots that bear fruit.

Pruning is also necessary for the bush as a sanitary treatment, when sick, insect-infected branches are cut out.

If the currant bush is young, it is necessary to shorten the shoots to increase its bushiness. To do this, it is recommended to leave 2-3 buds on each shoot, then new branches will grow by the fall.

Every year, it is necessary to remove zero shoots from the bush, leaving 4-5 strong branches, and pinch the tops, leaving only a few buds. This is how the fruits are formed - these are fruit twigs on old shoots.

Pruning currants in spring, video:

Feeding currants

After a long winter, the plants become weak by spring and, if the currant grows in one place for a long time, it needs feeding.

After all, the shrub has the ability to take all the most useful from the ground, therefore feeding currants in spring promotes a rich harvest in summer.

Top dressing of bushes is carried out in compliance with the following principles:

1. If the plant is only a year old, then it is enough to apply nitrogen fertilizers: 15 g of urea, 15 g of ammonium nitrate and 37 g of calcium nitrate per bush.
2. The currant bush, which is several years old, will be helped by organic fertilizers. In this case, it is necessary to dilute manure and 2 teaspoons of urea in a bucket of water. The whole mixture is thoroughly stirred and 2 liters of the resulting composition are added to each bush. At the end of the work, it is recommended to water the bush well with water.
3. The second feeding is carried out two weeks later, when the berries begin to set. Here you should pour humus under the currant bushes with the addition of 2 teaspoons of potassium sulfate.
4. Then, after another 2 weeks, the third feeding is carried out: spraying with a urea solution, where 2 teaspoons of the composition are taken for 10 liters of water.
5. The last feeding of currants is carried out in the fall so that it will survive the long frosty winter. For the last feeding, a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is taken, 6 teaspoons per 30 liters of water. The resulting composition must be watered under the bush, and then covered with humus and wood ash.

The presented feeding rules will help you enjoy a delicious and abundant harvest of berries every year.

Spring treatment from diseases and pests

Currants must be processed in the spring from pests and diseases. The most common currant diseases are powdery mildew, which affects leaves and shoots, rust, anthracnose fungus, terry (viral disease).

Powdery mildew manifests itself as a white powdery bloom and it is necessary to fight it by destroying these areas, and then treating it with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate or a solution of foundation using 15 g of the composition per 10 liters of water.

Regular treatment with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of wood ash will help get rid of the anthracnose fungus. For the prevention of diseases, it is necessary to carry out the treatment as soon as the snow melted.

The most famous pests are:

• Leaf sawfly that destroys leaves. Special solutions of plants that contain phytonicides help from it: garlic, wormwood, tomatoes, horseradish, nightshade.
• Leafy gall aphid - manifested by burgundy swellings on the surface of the leaves. Here it is recommended to treat it with tar soap or garlic infusion, and the biological product Fitoverm will also help.
• Shoot aphid - leads to leaf curling. As a preventive measure, in the spring, before the buds swell, in order to destroy the aphid eggs, it is necessary to treat the shrub with an 8% nitrafen solution. Chlorophos with the addition of karbofos helps well - 2 g of solution per 10 liters of water.
• Spider mite, due to which the leaves turn yellow and dry. It appears in dry years, therefore, as a preventive measure, frequent and abundant watering of the bush is required. When a tick appears, the shrub can be treated with a solution of karbofos, colloidal sulfur and phosphamide.
• A kidney mite that contributes to the death of the kidneys.To prevent damage to the entire shrub, it is necessary to remove already affected shoots and buds, which should then be burned in a place safe for their area. After the presented actions, it is necessary to treat the bush with a solution of colloidal sulfur, taken in a proportion of 10 g of a component per 10 liters of water.
• The kidney moth is a kidney-eating insect. You can destroy it with a 0.1% solution of Aktara or an infusion of dry mustard, tansy, celandine and tomato tops, taken in equal proportions (take 1 kg of the mixture for 10 liters of warm water).

Of the folk methods of pest control, the most economical and effective is the treatment of the currant bush with boiling water. This treatment will help not only get rid of pests and diseases, but also increase the plant's immunity.

You can start the presented processing method immediately after winter, while the buds have not yet begun to swell. Boiling water should be poured into a container and poured through a strainer onto currant branches from a distance of 10 cm.

The water for processing must be at least 60 degrees Celsius, but not more than 80 degrees, otherwise a burn will occur, and a low temperature will not bring a positive result.

It is also important to clean and burn leaves and debris left over from the fall - pests can live in them. Then you should dig up the aisles and around the bushes - this will strike a blow to the accumulation of larvae, spores and pest nests.

Planting currants

It is best to plant black currants in the fall, but if for some reason this did not work out, then the process can be postponed to spring. Planting currants in spring carried out as soon as the snow melted.

First you need to decide on the planting site, because currants love the sun and areas protected from the wind.

The soil must be fertile and not swampy, the presence of high groundwater is unacceptable - in this case, the roots may die from excess moisture.

For planting, dig a hole 50 cm wide and 40 cm deep, put organic fertilizers on the bottom, premixed with the soil. Before planting the seedling, 10 liters of water should be poured into the pit and only after that the shrub should be placed in the pit without damaging the root system.

Now you should cover the roots with earth and water again. In this case, the root collar deepens by no more than 5 cm. During the summer, the seedling must be weeded and watered.

Reproduction of black currant

An important question, how currants reproduce, worries all gardeners. There are 3 ways to propagate black currant: cuttings, dividing the bush and layering.

Cuttings

Reproduction of currants by cuttings in spring begins with the preparation of planting material. Cuttings are taken from the main root shoots or annual branches that come from the bush.

Shoots are cut with a length of 15-20 cm, while you should adhere to the rule that the optimal diameter for the presented breeding method is at least 7 mm.

The cut is made with a pruner 1.5 cm above the bud, because the root system will subsequently develop from it. For breeding, in the fall, a trench is prepared with a depth of one shovel bayonet. Compost and manure are laid in it, and in the spring, as the snow melts, when there is still a lot of moisture in the ground, cuttings are planted.

It is recommended to plant the cuttings at a distance of 10-15 cm, leaving passages of 40 cm, so that it is more convenient to take care of it. At the end, the soil surface should be covered with peat or humus to retain moisture. By autumn, the cuttings should form into young bushes, and then they can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Autumn planting of black currant cuttings, video:

Layers

Reproduction by the presented method is carried out in the spring by dropping young two-three-year-old cuttings into shallow dug grooves. A mixture of compost, humus and peat should be put on the bottom of them, and the layering should be fixed with metal or wooden pins and sprinkled with earth.

Pay attention to this material - Thuja: planting and care in the open field.

By the fall, the cuttings will release roots, they can be separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.

Dividing the bush

Here it is required to expose the shrub to digging up the root system. This is done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Also, several shoots are carefully separated by hand and planted in a neighboring, pre-prepared pit, according to all the basic rules for planting seedlings.

Cultivation of currants is common in many countries due to its unpretentiousness and endurance. It can be grown in any climatic conditions by choosing the right variety.

Black currant bears fruit every year, delighting gardeners with a bountiful harvest. And its large sweet berry is recognized as the most useful in the world.

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