Rose curly planting and care outdoors elf

Climbing Rose Elf is called the beauty and queen of all roses, because her beauty is breathtaking. When a flower opens, then you can experience pleasure from it, because it looks like a gentle cloud, snow-white from afar, and if you come closer, then a delicate lemon color.

The climbing rose is able to delight its owner all season. Not every florist rips off such beauty, because the rose not only bewitches, but also captivates with its aroma.

History

Rose Elf was bred by the German company Tantau in 2000 and is now considered a modern rose for planting in the garden. Before that, the company bred many roses with the same name, but they quickly went out of range. In their place came a new variety with terry petals of an unusual color.

Description

The rose bush is vigorous and can reach a height of 280 cm, in rare cases the bush reaches 250 cm in height. The shoots of the variety can be three meters in length. The flowers are large and reach a diameter of 14 cm, while they are densely double. One open bud can hold up to 57 petals. The flowers have a noble ivory color at the edges, which gently turns into a lemon shade with a pale green outline at the very edges. And also the Elf rose has a unique original scent. It can be described as gentle, fruity, alluring and mesmerizing.

If flowering occurs in favorable conditions and, in addition to everything, the plant receives proper care, then during the period of mass flowering, only one peduncle is able to throw out five flowers in an inflorescence at once.

With this variety, you can create a truly fabulous atmosphere on the site. Due to the height to which the rose can rise, it can braid the arbor and arch. It will not only look great, but also delight for a long time.

Planting and leaving

A climbing rose can grow not only in the garden, but also in the country and in the garden. To admire its beauty for a long time and feel the delicate aroma, you have to work hard. Before planting, you should know that the Elf does not like to be put close to each other... The landing site also needs to be carefully selected. It is best to choose well lit place, after all if you plant a rose in the shade, then the buds will not open well.

Groundwater underground must not pass less than 1.5 meters, because if the water stagnates, then the rose will grow poorly and various diseases can strike it. An excellent option for landing would be loam soilwhich is also suitable for planting daffodils. The pit for planting should be no deeper than 50x50 cm. The soil obtained from the dug hole must be mixed with sand, humus and superphosphate. After planting, form a small hill.

Climbing rose best planted in early spring... Trim the roots and stems before planting. And also seedlings need to be held in a solution of potassium permanganate, but not more than 20-30 minutes. After planting, the plant should be watered.

Care rules

During the period when the plant is growing and flowering, it needs careful care. First of all, caring for an Elf rose is as follows:

• regular feeding with fertilizers intended for this, which include the whole complex of minerals;
• it is necessary to fertilize twice a month, but at the end of July, stop feeding so that the plant is prepared for winter;
• fertilizer is best used with humus, mulch is also suitable;
• she does not like dry air, so you can sometimes pamper her with bathing and spray, while it is necessary for the water to be warm and do it in the morning or in the evening, otherwise the drops of moisture can serve as a magnifying glass and the sun will hit the leaves of the rose;
• care also includes support, this variety definitely needs something as a support so that you can create a beautiful view in the garden.

The Elf variety is frost-hardy and sometimes even retains its foliage in the winter. But if the temperature drops too low, then the plant may freeze. It is immune to diseases such as powdery mildew and spotting, but it should be borne in mind that flowers do not like rain and shade.

A year after planting, the rose will already need less attention. Despite this, the plant needs to be pruned and sometimes fertilized. To prune the bushes, you must first pay attention to the inner volume and form a plant with a garden design or other creative idea.

Do not water the plant abundantly. And humus when planting is able to hold out for the first few years of the plant's life, then it is best to fertilize the rose with organic and mineral fertilizers about 5 times in one season.

> Conclusion

The climbing rose is considered ideal for creating a romantic garden, decorating arches, gazebos and walls. Cascades of lemon-creamy flowers are able to gracefully bend under their weight, and the petals decorate them beautifully. Elf is suitable for lovers and romantic people, as well as those who love grace and style. For especially creative people, you can also plant verbena or lavender at the foot where the plant is planted, because their carved leaves and lush flowers will beautifully decorate and complement the beauty of a climbing rose.

Sometimes a flower can become capricious, during this period a change in beauty takes place, it becomes even more beautiful and is able to enchant the whole world. A mesmerizing plant can bring a nostalgic note to ordinary life, and this is insanely pleasing.

So, in order for the climbing rose to please for a long time, it is necessary:

• organize the correct planting of the plant and disinfect the seedlings;
• plant seedlings at a distance of 0.5 meters from each other, otherwise the roots may intertwine and the plant will die;
• the plant requires careful care in the first year of life;
• the main thing is not to plant it in the shade and close to groundwater, but also not to expose the flowers to rainwater;
• prune the bush in a timely manner and do not overfill with water.

Fulfilling all the recommendations, it will be possible to admire and inhale the aroma of large double flowers of the Elf rose for a long time.

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Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

↑ to the content ↑ Climbing rose - description of the type and features of planting

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives.Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance, some of them smell slightly audible, subtle and tender. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it does not work in another way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, the climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of the soil.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold snaps, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May is the most optimal time for spring planting.

↑ to the content ↑ Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag slightly in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering times by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm.If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole.About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems. Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing rose varieties with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying. The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter. Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose in spring from the store, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, thus, the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully examine the root system. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), it has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Further, you will need standard care for the climbing rose: hilling, watering, feeding, removing weeds, garter and forming a bush.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In hot and dry weather, rosebushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

↑ back to contents ↑ How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilization is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rose" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

↑ to contents ↑ Care of a climbing rose in the first year

How does it differ from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In summer, preventive irrigation should not be neglected against the invasion of parasites, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or coniferous spruce branches are an excellent covering material for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When a new spring comes, young bushes are opened first, older representatives - later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. An old proven method is hilling with earth and sand (1: 1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - full cover with the onset of the first frost.

↑ back to contents ↑ Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud in the way described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to shape the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, the branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not there, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruner when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

↑ back to content ↑ Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October.It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new place.

When replanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft shoots-lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must be pinched tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

↑ to content ↑ Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After we remove the seeds from the solution, put them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it on top with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results.For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is earthed up, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

↑ Back to Contents ↑ Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

1. Diseases. The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are bark cancer and ash (powdery mildew). Quite good results are given by preventive irrigation of the bushes with Bordeaux liquid (1%) at the stage of dormant buds. To reduce the risk of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potash fertilizers. At the beginning of autumn, you need to feed the climbing rose with potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and / or a nitrogen-phosphorus additive, for example, superphosphate. Careful inspection and timely removal of affected branches, as well as a competently carried out shelter of roses for the winter is a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can really cause the absence of flowers.
2. Wild growth. Multiple shoots can often be seen near the root zone of the climbing rose. Of course, they should be removed in a timely manner, because they are not of any use, they only suck vitality from the bush. If you ignore them and allow them to grow further, your rose will gradually run wild and, naturally, will stop giving color. You should remove wild growth as soon as it caught your eye.
3. The wrong shelter for the winter.A climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather. Correct wrapping of the bushes consists in creating an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself. Such an air gap will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness for a rose is as destructive as low temperatures. Proper preparation for winter also consists in limiting watering, starting from the first weeks of September. A ban is also imposed on loosening the soil. From this time on, the rose should not be given nitrogen fertilizing, only potash is allowed.
4. Too many nitrogen supplements. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of the green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds. If you overdo it with nitrogen, the climbing rose may not bloom.
5. Inappropriate landing site. An incorrectly chosen place can cause not only a lack of flowers, the rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there will be no strong drafts and shade.
6. Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation, if you too actively start pruning and capture a lot of young shoots, the rose simply cannot recover and, of course, will not form buds. Prune the plant correctly, remove old and thickening branches, pay attention to wild growth.
7. Unsuitable soil composition. The soil for growing climbing roses has already been mentioned above. The composition of the earth is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, saturated with useful substances.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Prevention and control of disease or pest infestation is one of the aspects of climbing rose care. Spider mites, aphids, leafworms, thrips, rose sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a roseSpider mite rose

At the initial stage, aphids can be manually removed from the branches, having previously put on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. The old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which extends not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).

Powdery mildewBacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

↑ to the content ↑ Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Repeated blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating blooms, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. Loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamentance":

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ "Bobby James" variety

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to diseases, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves tend to open slowly over a period of about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Schwannensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but, you must admit, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices". Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of a place of residence for a rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Rose Elf climbing large-flowered was bred in 2000 by the German company Tantau in the Nostalgic Roses series. The breeders managed to create in this plant an exquisite combination of gentle romanticism of nostalgic roses with an elegant silhouette of hybrid tea roses.

In addition, the large double flowers of this rose with an amazing greenish-white hue with a light fruity aroma play in different shades depending on the weather and the level of light. This article will tell you about whether the Elf climbing rose can grow in our climatic conditions, what factors affect the growth, development and abundance of flowering.

general characteristics

According to the officially accepted classification of the American Rose Society, which is used by many growers around the world, the re-flowering Elfe is Modern Roses - a modern garden rose, belonging to the species of climbing large-flowered (Large-Flowered Climber (LCI)). Rose Elf climbing forms an erect, vigorous bush, the shoots of which can grow up to 3-4 meters in length. Thanks to this, it is perfect for vertical gardening of walls of houses and various buildings, it will decorate pergolas and gazebos. The growth of long flowering shoots can be directed both up and down the support. In the latter case, under the weight of flowers and buds, they will cascade down to the ground. The variety is quite resistant to typical diseases and minor cold weather, but in the middle lane it winters better under cover.

Rose Elf climbing: description of flowers

In addition to the unusual light yellow shade, this variety is distinguished by the large size of double flowers, the diameter of which can vary from 10 to 14 cm. The advantages of Elfe include the fact that many buds in umbrella-shaped inflorescences form and bloom on strong shoots throughout the summer. Depending on the composition and type of soil on which it grows, the color of the petals may vary slightly. Unfortunately, the Elf climbing rose (reviews of gardeners testify to this) burns out quite strongly in the sun, flowers can also suffer from heavy rain. Elfe has a very delicate aroma with soft fruity notes.

Where to plant?

Rose Elf climbing prefers slightly acidic or neutral fertile light soils, as well as places well warmed by the sun and ventilated, but protected from strong winds. This is why most landscaping professionals recommend planting Elfe in elevated or high southern areas. Thanks to this placement, the growth will develop actively and will be able to bloom the next year after planting. These southern beauties cannot stand moisture stagnation, therefore, they are not recommended to be planted in areas with a high groundwater table. It is important to remember when choosing a place where the climbing rose Elf will "settle": planting and caring for it requires quite a lot of space around. Think in advance how and where you will lay the bush for the winter, whether you can close all the shoots.

How to prepare a seedling?

Before planting a sapling of a climbing large-flowered rose Elf in a permanent place, it is necessary to carry out several simple procedures with it. If the plant is planted in spring, then the seedling is soaked for a day in water at room temperature, which will allow the root system to be saturated with moisture. Immediately before planting, the plant is pruned, leaving several of the strongest shoots. The roots are also pruned, removing very long and damaged ones. Such pruning stimulates the seedling to grow actively in the first year and will allow it to please you with flowering next season.

We plant

When starting to plant any climbing rose, including Elfe, it should be remembered that the distance between the plant and any structure should be at least 0.5 meters. Otherwise, the root system will overheat and dry out, and the bush itself will develop slowly and may die.

For a seedling, it is necessary to prepare a hole with a depth of about 50-60 cm. The width and depth of the planting hole depend on how developed the root system of the plant is. When digging a hole, you need to remember that the roots should be located in it freely. After the hole is ready, add 3-4 kg of rotted compost mixed with garden soil, or cow dung, and spill it well with water.

We spread the roots of the seedling in the hole tightly, so that there are no voids left, we fill the hole with a previously prepared mixture of garden soil and humus. The root collar of any climbing rose (and Elf is no exception) must be buried at least 10 cm into the soil. This will protect the plant from freezing.In addition, with such a deep planting, shoots in the ground form additional roots.

After the hole is filled with soil to the base level, the soil around the plant itself can be compacted with your feet. The planted rose must be watered, and any root formation stimulator or humate can be added to the water. For better adaptation, the seedlings should be covered with foil for the first few weeks or, if the plants are small, with cut plastic bottles. Gradually, as the plants "come to their senses", you can remove the shelters.

How to care?

The very next year after planting, the Elf climbing rose requires much less care and attention.

It is enough to remove and cut the bush in a timely manner, water and feed the plant with fertilizers. Rose bushes are pruned, thinning the internal volume, and also forming a plant in accordance with the design of the garden or the creative idea of ​​the grower. Roses need to be watered infrequently, once every 7-10 days, but abundantly. The manure or humus introduced during planting will be enough for the first years of growth, but in the future, the queen of flowers must be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers at least 5 times per season.

Characteristics of the variety, its advantages and disadvantages

Climbing rose "Elf" is a vigorous bush with abundant flowering.

Climbing rose "Elf" in the international classification is ranked among climbers. Official titles in different countries:

• "Elfe",
• "Frаncine Jordi",
• "L'Аlcazar",
• "TANefle".

Selection - the famous German company "Tantau", Germany.

Registration year – 2000.

Description of the variety:

Flower color	Creamy white with a greenish tint
The number of flowers on the shoot	1 - 3 pcs.
Scent	❀❀ medium intensity, not intrusive
Average flower diameter	7 - 17 cm
Shoot length in height	2 - 2.8 m
The average width of the growth of the bush	1.5 m
Growing climate zone (USDA)	5
Winter hardiness	❄
Powdery mildew resistant	★★★
Resistant to black spot	★★★
Rain resistant	☂
Flowering duration	☀☀
Landing dates	Spring - the second, third decade of April, early May. Autumn - October
Note: ★ minimal, ★★★ - maximum.

More about decorative virtues roses "Elf":

• Large densely double flowers contain more than 50 petals. Delicate ivory petals along the edges, smoothly turn into a barely greenish tint to the base of the peduncle. The buds are dense, loose, open with a bend outward.

Up to five flowers are collected in one brush.

• The variety has a well-felt tender aroma with hints of sweet fruits.
• Flowering continues throughout the summer, without interruption. Is that in mid-July there is a slight decline, but there is no pronounced break.

Tip # 1... Note! the Rose reacts negatively the lack of light. In partial shade, the flowers become smaller, and in the shade, the rose does not bloom at all.

Features of planting and care in different climatic zones

So that the rose grows well and blooms thickly, you need to take care in advance and choose a suitable place in the garden. The plot must be:

• Protected from the prevailing winds and drafts,
• Well lit, the rose prefers scorching sun over light partial shade.

The rose blooms better on fertile loams of slightly acidic or neutral reaction, is responsive to organic fertilizers. Optimum soil conditions must be ensured prior to planting.

To optimize sandy soil, you will need the following additives:

• Sod land - 2 parts,
• Humus - 1 part,
• Compost - 1 part.

Rose "Elf" is a large-growing bush, therefore, when planting in poor soils, it is necessary to completely replace the soil to a depth of 0.5 m. This means that from a planting pit, measuring 0.5 mx 0.5 mx 0.5 m , remove the sand, and replace it with a fertile mixture. The work is best done in the fall, and the planting in the spring. During the winter, the earth will be compacted under its own weight, and when planting, you will need to prepare a small depression for the seedling.

If on the site clayey earth to improve the structure is made coarse sand, peat lowland, organic fertilizer (See also the article ⇒ organic fertilizers for horticultural roses).

Recommended by such rules:

Coarse river sand	20 - 40 kg / m2
peat from lowland,	3 - 4 buckets
Organic fertilizer - mullein	3 - 5 kg

Tip # 2... Do not forget about the pH level of the soil. In acidic soils rose susceptible fungal diseases. In addition excessive acidity adversely affects the quality of flowering.

To neutralize the pH below 5.8, making substances containing calcium:

• A piece of chalk,
• Limestone powder,
• Dolomite flour,
• Powder lime - quicklime
• Crushed shells of birds' eggs.

Of organic fertilizers used wood ash... The richest in nutrients that obtained from birch wood. Coal ash contains useful elements, but well loosens the soil and retain water.

In steppe or steppe zones prevail alkaline saline. In such an environment, many useful compounds are not available roses. To neutralize the earth at a pH above 7.5 using organic matter, provided that the process takes place in advance. It is best to transform for spring planting to spend the previous autumn. When planting rose scheduled for autumn, the additive is made not later than 3 months.

Apply such fertilizers:

• Fresh manure,
• High-moor peat,
• Needles or softwood chips,
• Sphagnum moss,
• Not rotted compost.

The acidification takes place at the expense of fermentation and putrefaction of organic matter to carbon dioxide. The process takes place much more quickly with the use of EM - preparations. It is important to remember that they "work" only during the warmer months.

When the soil is prepared properly, and the place for the roses well chosen, then further care is not difficult.

The main concern of the owner of roses "Elf" becomes tying bush to support and shelter for the winter. And that need protection from frost in the fourth zone and colder regions. In the fifth and sixth areas rose tolerate the cold season without wrapping (Read also the article ⇒ The process rose in the autumn before the shelter for the winter).

Reviews gardeners on growing roses "Elf" in country conditions

The bronzovka beetle causes great damage to the flowering of the "Elf" rose, pests are attracted by a peculiar aroma.

1. LUBOV (Saratov, Zone 4).

When buying a rose on the label indicated that the rose requires 2 m2. My beauty for three years has grown along the fence of 3 m each. Located in the hot sun all day, and the scorching heat it is not terrible. This year the flowers were particularly large. In winter, the fence is not rented, troublesome. Only covered with earth from the garden. First, I mix it with rotted compost, and then I cover the branches from below. Last fall, it took 8 buckets. Rose wintered well.

2. Olga - novice gardener (hut in the suburbs, zone 4).

I chose the "Elf", because I was told that unpretentious variety. But something went wrong. Rose second year grows poorly, the second year gives one flower, but put her in the sun.

3. Aurora Petrovna (Stavropol, Zone 6).

I do not recommend a rose for those areas where Bronzovka and Alenka beetles are ferocious. They just do not give a rose blossom petals eat around in small patches. If I knew, I never would not have landed themselves. But nowhere do not write about it.

4.Elena Nikolaevna, (Minsk, zone 5)

An excellent rose growing actively, flowers, well, just lovely sight as the snow strewn. But there is a drawback, after rain flowers hang like a rag, and summer rainfall, we are not uncommon. We'll have to think of her canopy, the rain is not overwhelmed.

Category: "Questions and Answers"

Question number 1... This spring planted a rose out of the container, for the whole summer, nothing happened to her. She does not dry and does not provide any gain. I have not seen this. What do we have to do?

Most likely, in the nursery rose "overfed" growth stimulants. An excess of such substances, they give the opposite effect - growth retardation.Try to "wake up" its nitrogen fertilizer, but only next spring. For the winter is better to feed the plant ash.

Q № 2... What alternative can replace rose cultivar "Elf"?

Such climbing roses are distinguished by the white color of flowering:

• «Bobby James»- Bobbie James (Bobby James), etc. - in Sunningdale, United Kingdom, 1961.

Melkotsvetny rambler - multiflora hybrid with long shoots to 5 m flowers simple, 3- size 5 cm, collected in the dense brush 5 -. 10 pcs. The aroma is stronger than that of "Elf". Blooms once at the beginning of the summer.

• "Ilse CZK superior" - Ilse Krohn Superior, etc. - in the Kordes, Germany, in 1964. Krupnorosly Climber, 3m in height. Buds large - average diameter 10 cm Petals strongly curved outwardly.. It blooms all summer. It is resistant to diseases and heavy rains.
• "Svanensi" - Schwanensee (Swan Lake), etc. - in McGredy, Ireland, 1968.

The flowers are white with a subtle pink tint in the middle bud appear alternately throughout the summer. The variety is popular in the Nordic countries because of the high resistance to rain. The average height of the bush - 2.5 m.

A selection of tips for growing roses

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