Climbing rose planting and care in the open field for the winter

You can decorate even the most unsightly corner of the garden and at the same time add a piece of light romance to it with the help of climbing roses. These extraordinary, beautifully flowering climbing plants please the owners with their flowering almost throughout the season. But for it to be flawless, climbing roses require proper planting and special care. We will tell you about all the intricacies and nuances of growing climbing plants in this article.

Curly rose: planting and care, photo

Any plant in the garden or in the summer cottage requires care. Particular attention must be paid to some flowering crops, which include weaving roses.and with long branches... Abundant and long-lasting flowering of this beautiful plant can be achieved only with the exact fulfillment of all the rules for planting, careful care throughout the year, timely pruning and protection from winter frosts and pests.

Choosing a landing site

Roses are photophilous, therefore, with a lack of sunlight, fresh stems will develop poorly and will bloom only in the next season. However, the midday sun can burn the plant. The place for planting roses should be such that during the hottest hours the bushes were in partial shade... The best option would be a site that the sun heats up in the morning. In the morning hours, the dew from the leaves will quickly evaporate, and the viral diseases of the roses will not be afraid.

Curly roses are also finicky. They do not tolerate drafts well, and therefore the corners of buildings are not suitable for planting them. Do not plant them in areas where roses have already grown and in wetlands. It is best to choose a bed with a slope so that water does not stagnate in the ground. The roots of the plant reach about two meters in length, so if the moisture of the soil is constantly very high, the flowers are planted on a hill.

Climbing shrubs for decoration can be planted along the walls of the building... So that their roots are not depleted, the distance from the wall should be at least 60 cm. In any case, the planting of climbing roses should take place near some kind of support. These can be fences, nets, pergolas, arches, walls, or specially crafted pillars or cones.

When to plant climbing roses?

In areas with a temperate climate, shrubs are planted in open ground in late September - early October. Within two weeks, they will give the first roots and before the onset of cold weather they will have time to get stronger. In the spring, the root and aerial parts will begin to grow actively, the bush will become lush, gain strength and bloom.However, in the northern regions, climbing roses are best planted in the spring, since the bushes planted in the fall will not have time to adapt, and can freeze out in winter.

Plants, which were planted in spring, are delayed in their development by about half a month and require increased attention. Before planting in the ground, such seedlings are cut into three buds.

Selection and processing of seedlings

Beautiful curly rosals can only be obtained in the presence of healthy seedlings... Their viability and quality are indicated by the appearance of the trunk. It should only be whitish green, not gray or brown. The acquired seedlings in open ground are not planted immediately. They must first be prepared:

1. Soak the plant completely in water for a day.
2. Shorten healthy roots by 15 cm, and cut off the crushed and weakened ones completely. A small bunch should remain.
3. Shorten strong branches of roses by 15-20 cm, and remove weak ones completely.
4. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal.
5. Treat the roots with Heteroauxin or Kornevin.

Thanks to this preparation for landing the bushes will begin to actively grow, and during the flowering period, many buds are formed on them.

Soil preparation

Climbing roses love fertile, loamy, well-drained soil. Only heavy clay and sand are not suitable for growing them. Therefore, clay areas are diluted with sand, and sandy areas - with clay. More suitable in chemical composition and crumbly soil will become after adding a small amount of lime to it.

When digging, the fertility of the soil can be increased by adding to it:

• phosphate fertilizers;
• humus;
• humus;
• phosphorobacterin (special soil bacteria).

The soil is prepared for planting climbing shrubs in advance. It is necessary to dig it up several times at the end of summer, and then loosen it also in the spring.

Landing features

The roots of a young plant should not experience a lack of space, so the holes for them should be free enough. The optimal depth is considered to be 60-65 cm. In order for the root system to develop freely, the distance between the plants must be at least one meter.

When planting roses in the hole, it is necessary observe the following recommendations:

1. About five kilograms of the nutrient mixture is preliminarily introduced into each hole. You can use peat compost.
2. The roots of the roses should be free in the hole. The voids between them are necessarily filled up.
3. The root collar of the plant is covered with soil by about 10-12 cm. This will help to protect it from frost in addition to insulation.
4. The planted rose is watered with a bucket of warm water.
5. The remaining space is filled with a mixture and lightly compacted.

The support to which the rose will be attached in the future should not interfere with the development of the root system. If the support is portable, then you can use special tripods, trellises or trellises. The pole and tripods can be made by yourself by knocking down for this wooden beams with a height of 2.5-3 meters... They will look gorgeous as arch supports, on both sides of which two bushes are planted. By the end of the second year, they will be completely entwined with curly roses with delicate flowers (pictured).

Caring for planted bushes

The main rules for caring for climbing roses include regular watering, timely feeding of plants, garter and pruning of shoots, sheltering bushes for the winter and protecting them from pests and diseases. Let's consider each point in more detail.

Watering and feeding

Climbing shrubs do not like excess moisture and tolerate drought without problems. It is recommended to water them once a week with a small amount of water, which should not be cold. Overmoistening plants can lead to viral diseases and poor appearance of the bushes.

Fertilizing roses is best manure or other organic fertilizers, alternating them with mineral dressings.It should be borne in mind that young plants at first will be sufficiently fertilized when planting soil. Therefore, it is not necessary to feed them too often. The next year after planting, caring for climbing roses will consist of fertilizing with fertilizers of the following composition:

• fresh black soil;
• humus;
• phosphorus complementary foods;
• humus.

With such a mixture, the soil in which the roses grow "revives" in spring and autumn. If it is not possible to prepare the composition yourself, then you can buy ready-made fertilizer for roses.

Pruning shoots

All climbing roses are divided into two types, each of which requires a certain pruning:

1. In shrubs flowering from June to July, after planting, all shoots are shortened. There should be shoots 30 cm long. New stems that appear during active growth are cut off as needed to form a beautiful bush.
2. Roses with a small number of basal shoots, which appear only on old branches, are shortened to 30 cm in the first year. The next year after planting, all old shoots are cut out completely.

Garter of climbing roses

After pruning, new branches will begin to grow, which need to be guided, giving the bush the intended shape. To form more buds, individual lashes are tied. At the same time, it is undesirable that they are directed only upward, since with this arrangement, the buds are formed only at the tops.

For lush flowering bushes there are several ways to tie:

1. Shoots can be fanned out, leaving the side branches not tied up. They will not interfere with each other, freely extending to the sides and up.
2. The main shoots are located horizontally, tied to the support. After a while, they will give new side branches, which will grow upward, forming a cloud of beautiful flowers.
3. In order for the curly branches to braid an arch or a pillar, they are tied up in a spiral, twisting around the support.

Whichever way the bush is formed, one should not neglect the care of climbing roses and preparing them for winter.

Protecting roses from frost

Before proceeding with the shelter, the bushes must be prepared. To do this, remove the leaves from them, cut out old loops and weak shoots. As a result there should be 11-12 healthy and strong shoots... All work is carried out in dry weather.

The way a climbing plant hides depends on the region in which it grows. In regions with a mild climate, the branches can not be removed from the support, covering them first with spruce branches, and then wrapping them in film.

In areas with severe winters, the plants are completely removed from the support. First, they are collected in a large bundle and tied. After the air temperature drops to -5C, they gently tilt to the ground, where they are fixed with wire or pegs. The base of the bush is sprinkled with a mixture of peat and soil, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches. From above everything takes cover thick film or agrofiber.

It is very important to remove the shelter on time in the spring. Otherwise, in a humid environment and without fresh air, the roses may suffocate and start to hurt. On open bushes, shoots are refreshed and tied to supports. The first feeding is recommended only after the appearance of young leaves.

Diseases of climbing roses

In case of errors in the care and incorrect arrangement of the bushes on the site, they may be affected by the following diseases:

1. Black spot occurs on young shoots in warm weather and heavy rains. You can recognize it by the black and brown spots on the leaves, which have a yellow halo. All affected leaves are removed from the plant and burned. Feeding is done with phosphate and potassium.
2. Powdery mildew progresses with increased humidity. If a white bloom appears on the leaves and stems, and the flowers do not bloom, then this indicates that the plant is sick. The bushes are treated with iron and copper sulfate, all the affected areas are cut out, the soil is dug up.
3. Bacterial cancer can be recognized by the growths and bumps on the roots. They are soft at first, but darken over time. The plant begins to dry out and dies. The affected roots are cut out, and the remaining ones are treated with copper sulfate.

When treating climbing roses, it must be remembered that all cut off affected areas must be burned... Otherwise, they can infect other plants.

Proper planting and care is the key to the abundant and long-lasting flowering of these royal flowers. Those who decide to grow climbing roses on their site will never regret it.

Planting and caring for climbing roses

Climbing roses are roses with long, creeping or drooping shoots, for the growth of which support is absolutely necessary. Among them there are roses that bloom once a year, as well as remontant ones, that is, they bloom many times.

Description of climbing roses

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, from simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Long-lasting flowering begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, combine well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, gazebos.

There are many varieties of wicker roses, the description of which will take a lot of time and space. However, by the nature of growth, these roses can be conditionally divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m in height.
• Climbing heights - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-plaited in height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total flowering time is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

    Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation, you need to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good illumination helps the growth to ripen, which will bloom next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, it will not work to grow these flowers.

    When choosing a planting site, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not "cover" other plants that do not require shelter.

    What kind of soil should be. To grow climbing roses, a fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required.And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil looseness.

    Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root collar of a seedling aged 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

    When is the best time to plant roses. In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in the fall from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of the planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are spudded with earth with sand to a height of 20-25 cm.When the temperature drops to subzero temperatures, the plants are covered for the winter.

    Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp secateurs. The aerial part is shortened to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting out rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild growth will develop from them. The seedlings are disinfected by dipping copper sulfate in 3%.

    Landing. Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not bend the roots of the plants too much. They are supposed to be freely spread out in the hole so that they go to the bottom, without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are deepened 5 cm when planting, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled with earth two-thirds of the depth, it is compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water is absorbed, the pit is filled up with earth, and the seedling is spud to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the hilling level is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the earth is carefully raked away from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, autumn roses are opened and treated in the same way. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the most sensitive spot of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring new shoots will grow over it.

If the climbing rose grows against the wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought up to the wall with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose was grown against the wall itself, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

For late spring planting in dry, warm weather, it is helpful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3 - 5 buds.

Climbing rose care

    Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely feeding, pruning, combating diseases and pests, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, the plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout most of the summer.

    How to water. Good plant maintenance is, first of all, proper watering. Roses consume a lot of water during the growing season. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which contributes to the preservation of moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by soil mulching.

The lack of moisture in the soil affects the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts from the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering with a hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

    Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others.Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10 - 20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with full, complex ones. Fertilizers can be either dry or liquid.

First of all, in the spring, liquid fertilizing is carried out with full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg. Ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and the roses are watered at the root. Such an operation will ensure an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such feeding, alternating among themselves, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding with nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash fertilizers, so that the bush has already started preparing for winter.

    For any feeding, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an overabundance of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may deteriorate. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning is very important in caring for wicker roses.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, and keep plants in a healthy state.

With good care, roses grow long shoots during the summer period, up to 2-3.5 m. They are sheltered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned on a strong external bud.

In the future, the pruning of climbing roses is carried out, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoots.

The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 shoots of restoration (replacement), which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.

For bushes with repeated flowering, it is sufficient to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, only the very tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be pruned, the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can ensure almost continuous flowering of roses in your garden throughout the growing season.

    Reproduction of climbing roses

    Climbing roses reproduce well with summer and winter cuttings. The easiest way is green cuttings, most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green propagation works best in June, during the first flowering.

The cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2 - 3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half.The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or directly into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Good results are obtained by cuttings in early spring. During spring pruning, there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

The shelter of these roses for the winter has its own characteristics. If, to shelter roses of other varieties, it is enough to sprinkle the bush with earth (it is important to keep shoots 10 - 15 cm high there), then in weaving roses it is necessary to keep the shoots - the whips completely.

  Caring for roses in the fall. Preparation of roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August, it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the plants with nitrogen, but it is necessary to make potassium fertilizers to strengthen the tissue of the shoots.

Shelter roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the shelter for the winter of a climbing rose can stretch for several days, or even a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature; in frost, the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or two bundles and then spreading them in different directions.

If, when you tilt the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover the rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes it has to be done even in the snow. Lutrasil cover is sufficient in the southern regions. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and even how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings, and it is not necessary to speak.

Climbing roses can beautify your home like no other flowering plant. One rose climbing up is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or to emphasize the originality of the facade, to add romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

The support can be either wooden or metal.

On a large tree, climbing roses appear in all their magnificent splendor.

The freestanding lattices, as independent garden structures, are supported by pillars dug into the ground.

Roses at such supports are planted at a distance of about 30 cm from the trellis and abundantly flowering varieties are chosen.

Simple and at the same time original support from metal rods.

Support grids can be made from materials at hand: wooden planks, metal bars, and even thick fishing line.

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Climbing rose in the interior of the garden

The garden rose is considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents say that a climbing rose requires increased attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. We will talk about the proper care of a climbing rose, the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.

Dates of planting roses in Russia

Planting of climbing roses in the suburbs and central Russia is carried out in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds begin to bloom. According to observations, in climbing roses planted in spring, there is a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.

Rose climbing planting and care photo

Planting a climbing rose in summer is recommended for self-rooted (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) plants, in containers with a closed root system. It is they who are advised to acquire for novice gardeners, but it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than the grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding to care for, especially to shelter for the winter.

Climbing roses in the south are planted in the fall, until mid-October. Within 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root shoots. In winter, the young rhizome will harden, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Site selection and site preparation

An ideal place for planting a climbing rose is a well-lit, level and dry area with a slight slope for rain and melt water to drain, or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and swampy areas for planting. Stagnant water will lead to decay of the roots, and the lack of sun and ventilation will lead to fungus.

Choosing a place and planting a climbing rose in summer

For the same reason, the depth of groundwater in the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow you to choose such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial elevation. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting pit, which prevents the roots from deepening and they begin to grow horizontally. A climbing rose, which is planted using this technology, requires additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched with bark or sawdust.

If the groundwater lies close to the surface, the care of climbing roses involves the presence of a room on the site for moving the bushes for winter storage. For this purpose, a dry heated basement or garage, an insulated veranda or terrace are suitable.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

The place where roses have already grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. If there is no alternative, the upper soil layer at a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils, with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5, are most suitable for climbing roses.

Coarse sand, humus, compost, sod and leafy soil (6: 1: 1: 1: 1) are introduced into the clay soil; in sandy - clay, sod soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earthen mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.

Planting scheme of climbing roses

The climbing rose is a perennial plant with strong roots that must be loose. Therefore, for one bush, a hole is dug up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size.The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

The top layer of the soil is set aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or fine gravel, a prepared earthen mixture is spread on top of a height of 40 cm, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Seedlings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planted in spring, the shoot of a rose is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom.The roots are cut to a living white tissue by 25 cm and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.

Scheme for pruning climbing roses before planting

The prepared plant is dipped for an hour in a creamy mash made of clay and 1/10 of fresh manure. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Bud or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are preliminarily diluted in 0.5 water.

The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can put down its own roots. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and that air voids do not form when covered with earth. Caring for climbing roses in summer consists in carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, without leaving hemp, unnecessary cuts and damage.

Correct planting of a climbing rose

After planting, the earth is tamped and watered. For watering own-rooted climbing roses, use a mixture by dissolving a tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemical preparations enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is spud and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, a support is placed for further garter. Curly roses planted in spring are covered with foil for 2 weeks for better restoration and adaptation of the roots.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require feeding. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, tie the bush to a support. When stems up to 3 m long grow, the support is removed, and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Climbing rose planting and care video

Climbing rose care after flowering

To give the bush the desired shape, from the second year after planting in the ground, they start pruning. A climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always pruned according to the general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

Pruning climbing roses

In place of the old ones, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Caring for remontant varieties of roses

Roses of remontant varieties are thinned out in early spring and after the end of flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young shoots have time to mature before winter. With a later procedure, they may die.

You will find a photo and a detailed description of climbing varieties of roses in our material.

Shelter for the winter and caring for roses in the spring

Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: by untiing and bending to the ground or fixing on a support.

An unsupported shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle, it is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

Shelter scheme for climbing roses for the winter

From above, they are wrapped in fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not allow water to pass through. The soil under the plant is covered with dry soil and mulched with fallen leaves.

Preparing a rose bush for shelter for the winter

Shelter method on a support

The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofibre or burlap and fixed with twine.

Tying a climbing rose bush with spruce branches and burlap

Experienced gardeners recommend covering several bushes at the same time. This contributes to a greater concentration of dry air between the plants and their better warming, which helps the roses overwinter without loss.

Shelter scheme for climbing roses on an arched support

Removal of winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is examined for disease and damage, pruning the affected area if necessary.

Areas with mold are treated with 15% copper sulfate, and the stems are tied to a support horizontally for less formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds are formed along the entire length of the main stems, and not just above.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are performed in accordance with all the rules, require a mandatory garter:

• For strapping, choose a plastic, silicone twine, and not a wire wrapped in paper. It decomposes over time from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant;
• The harness should fit snugly around the stem, but not injure it;
• The supports should be checked regularly, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.

Watch out for props and garter

It is important to remember that poor support or poor twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.

Outcome

It is not so difficult to grow an incredibly beautiful climbing rose on your site, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to the rules of planting and appropriate care, the climbing plant will delight with its gorgeous buds for many years.

How exquisite climbing roses look on fences. Caring for a plant is not an easy process, requiring a certain amount of time and effort. But no difficulties can keep flower growers from planting a climbing rose on their site.

Popular varieties of climbing roses

Before you purchase planting material for this flower, you need to have information about its varieties. Depending on the species, the care and planting of the climbing rose may differ. Some varieties are quite unpretentious to soil, watering and fertilizers. Others are the other way around.

The most common varieties of climbing roses:

• "Flammentant" - a species that tolerates cold weather well;
• "Dortmund" - the growth of the bush reaches two meters, blooms with bright red flowers on a dark green background of leaves;
• "Heidelberg" - hardy and unpretentious, blooms with large scarlet blooms;
• "New Down" - the height of the bush can be six meters. The color of the buds is light pink, resistant to diseases;
• "Climbing Minehakha" - blooms pink in the last month of spring, the height of the bush can reach four meters;
• "Dorothy Perkins" - the buds of this variety are not large (up to three centimeters in diameter), the plant has bright green leaves.

When is a climbing rose planting and how to prepare the soil?

Growing a climbing rose begins with planting it. It is worth purchasing planting material in advance, choosing a site and preparing the soil.

Climbing roses are planted in spring or autumn.

Previously, a piece of land must be dug to the depth of a bayonet shovel. Add peat, lime and humus in equal proportions to the soil. Planting a climbing rose begins with digging holes. The pits should be half a meter by half a meter. Wells should be well spilled with water.

At the bottom, it is better to put a mixture of manure (2.5 kilograms), clay (5 kilograms) and phosphorobacterin tablets (2 pieces). The compound must be thoroughly mixed until smooth.

Planting a climbing rose

The purchased climbing rose bush requires preliminary preparation for planting. Shoots and root system should be cut to the same length, no more than thirty centimeters. This approach will strengthen the bush and ensure abundant flowering.

The cuts on the roots are treated with ash, and on the shoots - with garden pitch. This is done in order to protect the climbing rose from infections and to speed up the healing process. After planting, the seedling should be covered with earth for a successful wintering. A distance of about a meter and a half should be left between young bushes.

When placing a seedling in a planting hole, it is worth carefully spreading the roots of the plant. Falling asleep the soil, you need to tamp it so that voids do not form. If there are gaps between the roots, there is a danger of frost damage.

When planting a weaving rose near fences or walls of a house, you need to leave a distance of about half a meter between them.

Climbing rose care

The basic rules for caring for a climbing rose are:

• pruning;
• top dressing;
• watering;
• shelter in the winter.

It is especially important to keep an eye on young fallow trees; they need to be regularly watered and fertilized with useful minerals. Weed and loosen the root plot of land as it is contaminated with weeds.

Already from the middle of autumn, you need to start preparing for the winter period. On any September day, weak shoots are selected and cut off. Scourges of climbing roses will independently begin to fall to the ground (a little later they are covered). After a couple of weeks, the branches of the plant will get used to the horizontal position. At this time, the lashes need to be collected in bundles, consisting of three to four pieces, and treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

When the air temperature drops below five degrees, it is worth cutting off all the leaves and covering the bare branches.

Shelter for the winter

Caring for a climbing rose also consists in properly covering it for the winter. In the place where the lashes of the plant lay, you need to dig small depressions. At their bottom, fold the fallen leaves, place the whips of the rose there and cover it on top with the same material. A film or roofing material is also laid on a natural shelter. In the spring, the plant will need to be opened.

Proper care of the climbing rose is not possible without the pruning process. In the spring, weak and damaged shoots should be identified on the bush. Such branches must be removed.

In the summer, already faded lashes are cut off, in this way the bush rejuvenates and forms new shoots.

What and how to feed

If you know how to care for a climbing rose, then you can grow a beautiful bush with abundant flowering. The plant is demanding for feeding; during the growth period, you need to fertilize the flower more than five times. The introduction of mineral and organic substances will positively affect the development of the rose. It is desirable to alternate them. During the flowering period, the plant is not fed.

Climbing roses are drought-resistant flowers, waterlogging of the soil for them can lead to death. There is also a great risk of being exposed to various diseases. Therefore, the plant is not watered often, about once every seven days.

Disease and pest control

Some of the most common diseases in climbing roses are:

• bark cancer;
• powdery mildew.

If they are not treated, the plant will quickly die. Powdery mildew is disposed of with Bordeaux liquid. With this tool, it is worth spraying the bushes at least three times within two weeks.

The fight against bark cancer is difficult, so it is better to carry out preventive measures. For example, timely shelter and release from it. If the plant has undergone a disease, then you need to cut off the damaged area of ​​the rose. It should definitely be burned.

The pests of the climbing beauty are:

• aphid;
• spider mite.

To detect parasites, you need to carefully examine the bush. If such are present, then it is worth urgently starting to deal with them.

The safest methods of protection against aphids and spider mites is to spray the bush with decoctions of nettle and horsetail. But in the case of a strong defeat of the rose, you need to resort to the help of insecticides.

The most popular decoration for gazebos, fences, walls are climbing roses. A photo against the background of this plant is an indescribable beauty that any gardener can grow.

Video - caring for a climbing rose