Tree peonies planting and care in the open field in autumn

We present the rules for planting and caring for a tree peony in the open field: location, soil, distance, depth and planting hole. We consider leaving in spring, summer and autumn: flowering, feeding, watering and pruning. We will separately dwell on the preparation for winter and shelter of the peony.

Own-rooted and grafted tree peonies: is there a difference?

Own-rooted peonies

Advantages. Long life expectancy from several decades to several centuries (usually bloom profusely for at least 25-30 years). High resilience and resistance to frost and disease. Free reproduction by dividing the rhizome.

Inconvenience. Conventionally, disadvantages can be called: slow growth and development of the plant in the first five years, therefore it blooms later - in the 4th-6th year. At this age, the bushes are usually 60-70 cm in height.

Grafted peonies

Advantages. Fast growth (20-40 cm per season) and flowering (1-3rd year).

Inconvenience. Shorter lifespan. They cannot be propagated by dividing the bush and must be immediately planted in a permanent place - they do not tolerate transplanting well.

At the same time, the grafted peonies often form shoots near the bush, which can be dug up and planted. Otherwise, it must be removed in order for the flower to develop better.

How to tell?

A seedling of a self-rooted peony has many long and thin roots (thickness - 6-9 mm), they are lighter. The grafted flower has roots from a herbaceous peony (cylindrical succulent rhizome) of greater thickness (3-5 cm) and darker.

Japanese grafted tree peony seedlings

Advice

Some growers, in order not to wait for the flowering of their own rooted tree-like peony, plant two types of seedlings. It turns out that the grafted specimen blooms quickly and brings joy, and the self-rooted one gradually grows and becomes a symbol of the family for many years.

Planting a tree peony: location, soil, distance and depth

LANDING AREA

Experts advise to immediately choose a permanent place with optimal factors for the development and flowering of a tree peony. It should be well lit in the morning and evening, and during the day it is better to have a little shade, since the midday heat reduces the flowering time.

• Therefore, it is better to plant on the east side so that there is maximum amount of light in the morning.Protection from strong winds and drafts is also necessary, frequent gusts of wind worsen the laying of flower buds.

Cannot be planted in low-lying areas, in an area with high groundwater levels or prone to waterlogging. Even 1-2 days of water with melting snow or heavy rain lead to negative consequences. If this is likely to happen, plant on high ridges and make gutters.

LANDING DISTANCE

The distance between the peonies is 1.3-1.8 m, other small plants can grow between them. The distance to the nearest large bushes and buildings is at least 2 meters, and to trees - 3 meters. The roots of shrubs and trees will deplete the soil, and the walls of buildings will heat up in summer.

GROUND FOR LANDING

Tree peonies are not selective, but they prefer loamy soil with high moisture and air permeability.

Heavy soils should be diluted with sand and humus, fresh manure should be avoided. Sandy loam soils need to be improved by adding clay and compost, but still the flowers are less decorative and age faster.

The worst is peaty soil due to its high acidity, therefore more wood ash and additionally slaked lime are added.

The optimum acidity level is pH 6.1-6.8. Excessive acidity must be reduced.

We recommend reading: «SOIL ACIDITY: HOW TO RECOGNIZE AND REDUCE?».

How to plant a tree peony correctly? Instructions

1. Landing pit. It is cone-shaped, width - 70-75, and depth - 65-81 cm. It is better to dig a hole 18-35 days before planting.
2. Drainage. It is recommended to make a 16-19 cm drainage layer of gravel, broken brick or sand at the bottom of the planting pit.
3. Soil mix. Put rotted manure on top of the drain. The soil mixture is prepared in equal parts from earth (top layer), peat and humus + add 140-210 g of superphosphate and 310-390 g of bone meal or wood ash. If the soil is clay, then you also need to add 7-9 kg of river sand, and 1-1.5 buckets of clay into the sandy soil.
4. Planting depth. The root collar is placed in the soil so that the renewal buds are at the level of the soil surface. The grafted specimens are planted so that the grafting site is 9-14 cm below the soil surface.

   Adjusting the planting depth of the peony

5. Landing. The components are mixed and poured into the pit. The roots are spread on the seedling for maximum contact with the soil, and they are planted on the resulting cone. The root collar should not touch humus to prevent fungal diseases. After planting, pour water over the hole, and then fill up with ordinary earth, no more than 3-4 cm on top of the renewal buds.

• If the pH is below 6.5, add 100 grams of slaked lime to the top dressing layer, and if it is below 6.0, add 200 grams per bush.

Planting a tree peony in spring or autumn: when is it necessary?

According to scientific experts, the most favorable time for planting a tree-like peony is from August 20 to September 30 (Middle lane, Moscow region). Moreover, September 15-25 is considered the best period, according to Chinese masters - the autumn solstice + - 1 day.

Seedlings with closed root system (closed root system) can be planted in spring and even summer. Still, it is better to dig a peony in a pot bought in spring in partial shade until August - September, so that it adapts better. Then you transfer (always with a lump of earth) to a permanent place and make a shelter for the winter.

Peony transshipment into the ground

But seedlings without a pot (OCS) are best planted only at the indicated favorable time or, in extreme cases, in early spring.

Why is it better to plant tree peonies in the fall than in the spring?

It is better to store seedlings from spring to autumn dug in on the site not because of fears of their death.

But because planting in the spring will take away from them the nutrients intended for the growth of shoots and flowering, which are accumulated in the storage rhizome. Because of this, the flower will not develop suction roots and will not make up for losses.

As a result, a lot of time will be spent on recuperation for the next flowering.And planting a seedling in a container creates favorable conditions for it. Low temperature prolongs the dormant period, it is easier to protect it from drying out and waterlogging, as well as from frost and drafts.

How to save a seedling before planting in August or September?

Often seedlings with an open root system are brought in massively from China at the end of winter. In this case, plant a cut in a 3-4 liter pot, put it in a cool and dark place (cellar, basement) and slightly moisten the soil (without waterlogging (!)) So that the flower remains at rest for as long as possible.

After the start of the growth of the shoots, transfer the pot to the windowsill and water as little as possible. In May - June, place in the garden in a quiet and shady place. And in August or September, plant it in a permanent place.

Tree peony care after planting

The first spring is a key time in the life of a flower. From May to mid-June is the most favorable period for feeding.

1. Pour a solution with a complex mineral fertilizer (for example, "Kemira Spring - Summer") + nitrogen (ammonium nitrate 40-50 g) into a circular hole to accelerate the formation of the root system and intensive vegetation.
2. In the first growing season, foliar feeding is more effective. Sprinkle the bush three times: 1. After the shoots start growing - 30-40 grams of urea / 5 liters of water. 2. After 14-19 days, 30-40 grams of urea (carbamide) and a tablet with microelements / 5 liters of water. 3. After 2-3 weeks, two tablets / 5 liters of water.
3. If there is no rain, then water every 2-3 days for the first 15-19 days after planting. In the future, water the bush during drought is better less often, but abundantly: 11-16 liters per bush. Loosen the soil the next day to provide oxygen to the roots.
4. Preparing for winter 1-2. In mid-October, the seedlings must be covered with a 11-14 cm layer of peat and covered with a bucket. Using straw, foliage or manure is not recommended. In the spring, the mulch is harvested, and the next fall, they are covered again.

What year will the tree peony bloom after planting?

A grafted seedling with normal development usually blooms in the 2-3rd year, and self-rooted in the 4th-6th year.

First bloom

In a tree peony, there is no need to rush to pick the first flower (not like in herbaceous species). If he was able to form a flower bud and bloomed, it means that he developed the root system sufficiently.

It is necessary to cut the first flower after full flowering, i.e. as soon as it is fully revealed.

If the bush has two sprouts and buds, then wait until the stage of the colored bud. Then gently remove (pinch) the top bud or pierce its base with a needle. Then it will dry out, and the plant will not waste nutrients.

If the bud is cut off before this stage, then the growth point located at the top of the shoot will be damaged, which is fraught with stopping its growth.

• At the first flowering, the flower often does not coincide with the declared characteristics of the variety. All varietal characteristics usually appear during the third flowering, especially in densely double flowers and with an unusual shape of the petals.

Tree peony: care in spring, summer and autumn (feeding, watering)

WHEN TO OPEN A TREE PEONY IN SPRING?

You can remove the winter shelter after the snow has completely melted, at a time when crocuses begin to bloom. Approximate terms for the Moscow region: late March - early April.

Spring pruning of peony

Before the beginning of the growing season (March - April), it is recommended to prune for a beautiful formation and extension of the life of the bush. To do this, cut the shoots at the level of the first growth bud from the top, and shorten the weak ones by 9-12 cm above the ground.

Attention! If found, do not cut off the frozen shoots and wait until the end of May. If the flower does not recover, then cut them to the first living bud, then it will begin to grow again.

Pruning a tree peony in spring

Top dressing and fertilizers: subtleties and order

The best food for tree peony: wood ash, bone meal and mineral fertilizers with a high concentration of potassium and phosphorus, and a low concentration of nitrogen.It is convenient to fertilize together with watering.

Autumn is the best time for organic fertilization. The bush can be overlaid with compost (rotted manure) - 3-5 kg, and then dig up the soil 11-14 cm deep. Fresh manure is categorically not advised to use; from contact with it, the roots are affected by rot.

1. Preventive. After the snow melts, water the soil around the peony with potassium permanganate (2-3 grams per five liters of water - one bush) to prevent diseases.
2. Nitrogen-potassium for growth. As soon as the snow has melted, it is better to apply nitrogen and potash fertilizers - 1: 1. Spread 16-21 grams of nitrogen (ammonium nitrate - 40-60 grams) and potassium (potassium salt - 16-21 grams) on the ground at a distance of 16-21 cm from the rhizome.
   You can replace 40-60 grams of nitrophoska or take something like Kemir Spring / Summer. Then dig 9-11 cm deep and cover with a thin layer of compost. Together with water after rain or watering, substances will get to the roots.
3. Potash phosphoric for powerful flowering. At the beginning of budding (12-16 days before flowering), liquid feeding is carried out with potash (40-50 g) and phosphorus fertilizers (20-30 g) - 2: 1.
   Potassium and phosphorus will provide abundant flowering. Additionally, you can water 10 liters of mullein infusion (only bushes over five years old) or dissolve mineral fertilizers in it.
4. Bloom. During the flowering of the peony or after it, after 3-5 days, repeat the potassium-phosphorus feeding.

• An overabundance of nutrients should be avoided and the measure of feeding should be observed.
• To improve nitrogen metabolism, it is advisable to carry out foliar feeding (spraying) with boric acid - 1 gram per 500 g of water every 15-20 days before flowering.

Watering a tree peony

Obligatory watering: 13-16 days before flowering (15-25 liters) and 13-16 days after flowering. Do not allow the soil to dry out in July - August (it is often dry and hot), and the plant starts buds of renewal and needs water. Watering is stopped at the end of August.

In general, it is best to water sparingly but abundantly. Usually, 2-4 waterings per summer are obtained with sufficient rainfall. Be sure to loosen the soil after watering (rain) so that there is no crust and maximum oxygen flows to the roots.

Hole around the bush for watering and fertilizing

Summer: flowering, post-flowering peony care and pruning

Bloom

Treelike peonies bloom in late May - early June (Middle lane, Moscow region). First non-double, after 3-5 days - terry, and later for 1-2 weeks yellow-flowered semi-shrubs. Medium varieties bloom in mid-June, and late varieties from the end of the month to early July.

The flowering period is 11-16 days, a little less in hot weather, and more in cool weather.

BOUQUET CUTTING RULES

• Cut no more than half of the flowers to make it easier for the peony to recover.
• When cutting a flower, at least 2-3 leaves should remain on the remaining shoot on the bush.
• Advice. For fuller flowers, cut off 25-30% of the resulting buds at the "pea" stage.

SUPPORT

For varieties with large flowers, support the flower with reinforcement or stakes with a wire ring. Now there are special bush holders on sale, for example:

Ready support for peonies

Post-flowering care: pruning

After flowering, the stem is trimmed two buds below the faded bud. And also weeds are regularly pulled out. Watering and fertilizing according to the recommendations in these sections.

Pruning a tree peony after flowering

Tree peony: care in the fall and preparation for winter

Autumn care of a tree peony is reduced to digging a trunk circle (60-80 cm in diameter) at a depth of 10-13 cm.On top, you can remove the top layer and pour sand into which small-bulbous flowers (anemone, kandyk, crocus, muscari, scrub, scilla). They bloom in early spring and decorate the wintering site with their flowers.

Transplant and reproduction

Read about transplanting a tree peony in the fall and reproduction in a separate material at the end of the page.

Preparation for winter: is it necessary or not?

In the Moscow region and throughout the European part of the CIS, tree peonies normally hibernate without shelter in a quiet and wind-protected place. Although in winter the earth can freeze over a meter in depth, and the temperature can drop below -30 degrees.

• In the open area: Middle lane, Moscow region, North-West, Ural and Siberia better cover them for the winter "just in case of fire."
• But young (1-2 years old) tree peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, it is enough to pour an 11-14 cm layer of peat around the bush and cover with a bucket.

Do I need to prune a tree peony in the fall for the winter?

Experts do not recommend pruning tree varieties in the fall. It is better to spend it in the spring. More details in the chapter - "Cropping".

Shelter for the winter tree peony

1. It is imperative to tie the bush with a ribbon, tourniquet or rope in mid to late October, but not tightly and neatly so that the branches do not freeze to the snow and break off in the spring.
2. After the onset of stable subzero temperatures (November), cover the bush with spruce branches, white (!) Burlap, agrofibre or lutrasil (leave gaps for air at the bottom).
   Instead of a spruce hut, a tree-like peony is often covered with a cardboard box, plastic boxes or a barrel for the winter. If the branches rest against the bottom, it is better to cut them off a little, since they will freeze and still have to be cut in the spring.
   Shelter with burlap allows you to preserve peonies in winter and often more often serves as protection not from frost, but from hares and birds - so as not to damage the kidneys.

• To increase the frost resistance of the flower due to better ripening of the shoots, you can cut off the leaves by 2/3 of the length at the end of September.
• Even if the buds of the bush, which had bloomed for 2-3 years before that, are frozen, do not worry. At the end of May, cut off such shoots to the first living bud, and then they will easily grow back.

Pruning tree peonies: bush formation and rejuvenation

In general, the flowers are characterized by good pruning tolerance and rapid growth of new shoots. When pruning a bush, you need to understand that it will bloom on last year's shoots.

Bush formation

To form a bush, it is advised to cut woody shoots at a height of 70-90 cm. It is this height that contributes to the excellent development and flowering of the tree peony in our climate, and also makes it easier to shelter for the winter. Although the shrub itself can grow up to 2-2.5 meters in the European part of the CIS.

Rejuvenation

To rejuvenate the flower and awaken the adventitious buds, it is recommended to cut the stems of the treelike peony every 10-20 years to the upper axillary point (3-4 cm from ground level). This procedure promotes more lush flowering and prolongs the life of the plant, up to a hundred years or more.

Diseases and pests

Tree peonies are very resistant plants, including pests and diseases. The greatest danger is gray rot, and the best remedy is prevention.

If damaged, treat the plants with a fungicide. For example, potassium permanganate - 3 grams per 10 liters of water or copper sulfate - 60-70 grams per 10 liters of water.

For prevention, be sure to spray the flowers in the spring (mass regrowth of shoots), before and after flowering with a fungicide.

For example, copper sulfate (40 g per 10 liters of water or 4 g per m2), iodine solution (1 ml per 400 ml), potassium permanganate (1 g per 4 l) or infusion of onion husks (pour 100 g of 5 liters of water and leave for 24 hours ).

Read more in the article: HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? Section - funds and preparations.

What is the best seedling to choose?

It is best if the tree peony seedling has 2-3 lignified shoots with unblown, rather large dark red glossy buds (dormant state) 18-25 cm in height.

• The high cost of seedlings is explained by the fact that when dividing a bush, few divisions are obtained (2-5).

Most of them are brought from nurseries in China, Japan and Poland.Many experts believe that foreign planting material is less prepared for our climate and recommend buying seedlings of Russian varieties.

Russian tree peonies are highly winter-hardy and thrive in the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia.

However, there are more chances to buy them from residents of Moscow and the Moscow region, since many of them are grown in the Botanical Garden at Moscow University. Much credit for this belongs to Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya.

• Be sure to study the characteristics of the variety: winter hardiness, survival in your climate and external signs (height, flowering time, flower features - terry, shade and diameter).

TIPS

1. If the buds of a delenka with an open root system (without a pot) have already blossomed, then its quality is much reduced.
2. When buying a seedling without a pot, be sure to inspect the root system so that there are as few rotted or broken roots as possible. And their length should ideally be equal to the height of the seedling.
3. The larger the seedling, the longer it will take root in a new place.
4. If at the base of the lignified shoot is a cylindrical succulent rhizome, then it is a scion of a tree-like peony on a herbaceous rootstock. (See reproduction by vaccinations).

Important! Damage to the buds during transport or planting results in a 1-2 year delay in flowering.

An interesting fact for residents and guests of Moscow

In the capital of Russia, the oldest botanical garden, founded in 1706 by Peter I, is known as the Pharmaceutical Garden. So tree peonies were planted in it back in the 19th century, and they still bloom there. They are now about 140-160 cm tall.

Near the botanical garden (metro station Prospekt Mira) there are many greenhouses with exotic and rare plants open to the public. There is also a website and an Instagram profile, where you can find out the time and cost of excursions. In addition, a plant shop is open from mid-April until late autumn.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. TRANSPORTATION AND REPRODUCTION OF THE TREE PION - WHAT IS BETTER?

2. CORRECT LANDING OF PIONES IN SPRING AND AUTUMN - OVERVIEW!

3. TRANSFERRING THE PIONE TO ANOTHER PLACE - SUBSTANCE AND TILT!

4. CARE AND CULTIVATION OF PIONES TO FLOWER!

5. REPRODUCTION OF HERBAL PIONES - ALL WAYS!

6. SPECIES AND BEST VARIETIES OF PIONE - PHOTOS AND NAMES!

7. ARE BLUE AND BLUE PIONES ALSO AVAILABLE?

Afterword

In this guide to planting and caring for tree-like peonies, many of the recommendations are consistent with the article from the Appendix "Household economy" from the magazine "Selskaya Nov". The author of the article is M.S.Uspenskaya, the issue was signed for publication on 23.10.1991. And also the book "Peonies" from Marianna Sergeevna.

Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya is familiar to every person who is interested in peonies. This is a real guru and a man-legend, candidate of biological sciences (1982), senior researcher (1967) of the Botanical Garden at Moscow State University and the author of many varieties.

By the way, on the Internet, 95% of the information about the agricultural technology of tree peonies is the processing of the works of Marianna Sergeevna. However, most of them resemble the game "broken phone" and contain conflicting information. Our editorial office keeps the original of this issue of the journal and the book, i.e. we studied the original source.

Finally, a video with the participation of the legendary Marianna Sergeevna and her live advice.

We wish your flowers to be healthy and bloom profusely every year!

The beauty of blooming peonies is so mesmerizing that it is literally impossible to tear yourself away from it. Variety in color and shape: you can find both snow-white semi-double or burgundy anemone-shaped buds, and pink double and scarlet pink-shaped. For peonies, they always try to take the best place in the garden. Let's figure out how finicky the peony is, and what kind of care it needs.

When to transplant peonies outdoors

As mentioned earlier, the optimal time for planting peonies is autumn, or rather September.Preparation for planting in the ground should begin in August, but the transplant itself is postponed until the second half of September.

Let's see why:

• By this time, the kidneys are completely formed.
• The top of the bush stops growing. Goes into sleep state.
• Small roots are also formed. Minimal risk of injury to the root system of the plant.
• Hot weather is not expected, which is welcome when transferring.
• September is a rainy season, which increases the possibility of rooting when a peony is planted.

Choosing a place for growing peonies in the open field

For good growth and rooting, the peony needs to create certain conditions - choose the right place, how to transplant. There are some recommendations from experienced gardeners:

1. The site should be well lit, the plant loves the sun.
2. The flower is afraid of draft and wind. Planting should be carried out next to trees or shrubs, providing enough space for the root system of the flower.
3. It is not recommended to plant a peony near the house - it is destructive for him. The plant does not tolerate overheating well, and heat constantly emanates from the walls of the house. The peony should be two meters from the house.

Fresh articles about garden and vegetable garden

The choice of soil for growing peonies in the open field

The composition of the soil is very important for a peony. There are some professional tips to help you choose your soil:

• For peony, loamy soil is preferable.
• Heavy, clayey soil is lightened by sand, peat and humus. In such soil, the plant will feel great.
• Humus and clay are added to the sandy soil.
• Peaty lands are detrimental to peonies, but if you add ash, sand and organic matter to them, then they are suitable for growing a flower.

Peony planting technology in open ground

Due to the fact that the peony bush will grow in one place for several years and grow, you should plan 1-2 m2 of planting area for each plant. Planting holes are dug 50-60 cm deep and 70-80 cm in diameter.

At the bottom of the hole, drainage is poured from large expanded clay, crushed stone or broken brick.

Then a mound is poured from a mixture of excavated earth mixed with rotted manure or compost (5-6 kg), wood ash (0.5 liter can) and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (for example, 100 g of potassium sulfate and double superphosphate).

The seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are spread, directing them down, and covered with the remaining earth. At the same time, the growth point is deepened by 3-5 cm. With a deeper planting, the plant will be weak, prone to frequent diseases, flowering will be poor or absent altogether.

In order not to be mistaken with depth, it is convenient to use a boarding board or a stick. It is placed across the hole and the desired length is measured.

After planting, the plants are watered, spending 10 liters of water for each. At the same time, the soil settles, so the hole is filled up with earth and mulched with peat or straw.

Top dressing of peonies in the open field

In the first year after planting, young peonies, planting and caring for which does not cause difficulties, practically do not require additional fertilizing. During this period, the roots are actively developing, but poorly assimilate mineral fertilizers. It is recommended to make only foliar top dressing with Kemir or Baikal-M complex fertilizers.

In the spring, during active leaf growth (April and May), plants are sprayed with a solution of Agricola, according to the instructions for use. In mid-June, Ideal fertilizer is used (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

From the second year of life, the plants are fed systematically. In May, as soon as the leaves begin to bloom, humus or compost is embedded in the soil around the bush. As root dressings, I use nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea diluted in water at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. 10 liters.

During the formation of peduncles, liquid organic matter (preferably mullein) is introduced with the addition of 1 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate on a bucket of working solution.Additionally, the leaves and buds are sprayed with the Bud preparation, and 1-2 glasses of ash are added to the trunk circles.

After flowering - in early August, plants are watered with a solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp each. l. each on a bucket of water.

Diseases and pests of peonies in the open field

Of all the existing diseases, peonies most often suffer from gray rot - botrytis. This disease manifests itself in mid-May by rotting stems, although both buds and leaves can be affected by Botrytis - parts of the plant are covered with gray mold. Excess nitrogen, tightness in the flower bed and rainy weather contribute to the appearance of gray rot. Diseased areas should be cut and burned away from all plants. As a preventive measure, spraying with a solution of copper sulfate (50 g per 10 l of water) or garlic water (10 g of crushed garlic per 1 l of water) is used. You need to spray both the plant and the soil around the bush.

Sometimes peonies are infected with powdery mildew - a fungal disease that affects the leaves of peonies and covers them with a white coating. Powdery mildew should be fought by spraying the bush with soapy water (200 g of laundry soap, 20 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).

Watering peonies in the open field

Watering is carried out in moderate doses. In addition, peonies react painfully to the proximity of groundwater. They prefer loose, permeable and nutritious soil. At a time when peonies are blooming and in hot, dry weather, the amount of watering is increased.

Please note that watering the flower in the heat is necessary only at the root, avoiding moisture on the leaves.

Articles about unusual growing seedlings

Weeding peonies in the open field

Weeding is one of the most important conditions for the healthy growth of a peony. Timely removal of weeds has a positive effect on the development and appearance of the plant. Carefully process the soil around the peony, just do not cut the flower itself.

Peony care during flowering

As a rule, peonies begin to bloom from the age of three. As soon as the buds reach the size of a pea, the plants are stepson - pluck out the side shoots, leaving one central one on each stem. To stimulate lush blooms.

Most varieties form large inflorescences, the bushes often do not withstand their weight and lodge, especially during the rainy season. To support the plants, metal or plastic supports are installed. Faded peduncles are cut off at a level of 15 cm from the ground.

Transplanting and reproduction of peonies in the open field

They say that under favorable conditions, peonies can live up to a hundred years. However, this does not mean that the plant sticks to one place. Once every 5-6 years, peonies are transplanted to a new place. Do not be alarmed that you will have to plant a flower all over the site. After a few years, you can return the plant to its original location.

Of the two options when you can transplant peonies, in spring or autumn, choose the one that is more convenient for you. The main thing is to remember that a magnificent handsome man experiences an autumn transplant easier and easier than a spring one.

Important! A flower transplanted in spring is sick for a long time and does not bloom, and a flower that has moved to a new place in the fall gets time to adapt and begins to grow rapidly with the first spring drop.

Reproduction of peonies

Reproduction of peonies by seeds

You are already familiar with the vegetative propagation of peonies by the method of dividing a bush. Peonies propagate in other ways, for example, by seed. But it should be remembered that peony seeds do not always retain varietal qualities, therefore, as a rule, only breeders use them. And plants grown from seeds bloom only in the fourth or fifth year. But if you want to try to breed a new variety, then sow freshly harvested seeds in August directly into loose soil, and they will germinate next spring.

Articles about growing seedlings

Propagation of peonies by root cuttings

This is the most reliable way of breeding peonies.A small piece of rhizome with a dormant bud is separated from the bush in July, planted, and by September it has already taken root. True, for those who are in a hurry, this method is not suitable: such shoots develop slowly and for the first time they will be able to bloom in five years.

The history of growing peonies has more than two millennia, during which a great many varieties and varieties have been created. But no matter how much the peonies have changed, planting and caring for them in the open field has not undergone major changes since then.

To admire the lush carved foliage and spectacular flowering year after year, the summer resident will have to master all the intricacies of agricultural technology and find out the preferences of these amazing ornamental plants.

All species of peonies that exist in nature are natives of Eurasia and the American continent, represented by herbaceous perennials and dwarf shrubs. In Russian gardens, plants have long proven their unpretentiousness and the ability to grow and bloom in one place from 10 to 20 years without transplanting.

A place for planting and caring for peonies in the open field

A place for planting peonies is chosen so that the plant is as comfortable as possible for not only one season, but also several years. Since this culture belongs to light and heat-loving, up to 3 hours a day it can endure a transparent garden shade, but is afraid of cold winds and drafts, the peony is selected a site according to its requirements and shading for the hottest, noon hours.

For several years, the root system of peonies can deepen to 70–80 cm. To simplify the care of peonies in the open field, before planting, pay attention to the danger of flooding the site and stagnation of scarlet or groundwater. Constant humidity greatly increases the risk of root rot and the death of the entire bush.

Actively growing peonies need space, tightness leads to a deterioration in flowering, the appearance of diseases and pests.

Peony planting conditions:

1. Planting holes are made at a distance of at least 1–1.5 meters from shrubs and other perennial plants.
2. A gap of at least 2-3 meters is left to the nearest tree.
3. Do not plant peonies directly under the walls of buildings and fences.
4. Between the bushes, depending on the type and variety, leave from 70 to 180 cm of free space.

A bright, wind-protected area has been found, it's time to take care of the soil in which the peony is to grow. Soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction should be loose, aerated, nutritious. Sandy soil is flavored with humus, peat, wood ash and deoxidized with dolomite flour. Mix in garden soil as needed. Dense clay soil can be made more airy with river sand and a little peat. The sand is used to structure the nutritious but rapidly caking black soil.

Rules for planting peonies for outdoor care

Unlike many horticultural crops, when planting which it is important to leave the growth point at the level of the soil or above it, peonies deeply deepen. The buds, from which the stems will subsequently develop, are sunk into it by 3–7 cm, depending on the density of the soil.

If this is not done, the most sensitive and important part of the plant will be unprotected in rain, snow and sun. However, even with an excessively deep planting of a peony in open ground, caring for it can be not only laborious, but also in vain. Such plants form lush foliage in the spring, but bloom weakly or refuse to form buds altogether.

Peony planting rules:

1. Planting pits for peonies are made up to 80 cm deep for tree-like plants and up to 60 cm for more common herbaceous varieties. The width of the pit is 60 and 50 cm, respectively.
2. The bottom, in order to avoid stagnation of water, is covered with drainage.
3. The pit is filled two-thirds with the prepared substrate mixed with 100-150 grams of superphosphate, one spoonful of ferrous sulfate and a liter jar of bone meal or sifted wood ash.
4. When the straightened peony roots fall into the ground, they are covered with loose soil by another 15–20 cm so that the buds are reliably hidden below the ground level.

Outdoor peony care in spring or autumn begins immediately after planting. The soil is carefully compacted and watered at the rate of 8-10 liters of water per bush. If the plants are ahead of autumn rooting and wintering, they are thickly mulched with a 10-centimeter layer of peat. With the onset of spring, care for the perennial continues.

Planting peonies in the ground: spring or autumn

The most convenient planting time for a florist and favorable for a peony is the beginning of autumn. By this time, the root system of the perennial grows, and it itself recovers after flowering and accumulates strength.

If you plan to plant in the open ground and care for peonies in the fall, it should be carried out 30-40 days before the onset of stable cold weather. In this case, an adult transplanted plant or a young seedling obtained from dividing a bush is guaranteed to take root and does not freeze in winter.

The timing of planting of decorative perennials depends on the characteristics of the climate of a particular region. The shorter the summer, the earlier it is worth taking care of the preparation of pits and planting material.

Landing dates:

1. Peonies are planted in open ground in Siberia in August, September and October, and in the northern regions it ends 1.5–2 months earlier than in the south.
2. In the Urals, where the weather is extremely changeable, seedlings are brought into the ground from the second half of August to mid-September.
3. A week later, you can plant flowering perennials in the middle lane and in the North-West of the country.
4. And in the south of Russia, peonies without fear for the condition of the plant can be planted from September to mid-October.

When buying seedlings from a nursery or because of the early arrival of cold weather, planting is postponed to spring. Unfortunately, if the plants have an open root system, they do not tolerate this procedure very well. Peonies weakened after wintering take a long time to acclimatize, and sometimes even over the whole summer they cannot recover.

In order to exclude unpleasant consequences, planting of peonies in the ground in the spring is carried out very early, in the soil moist after the snow melts, until the hot weather sets in, and the plants themselves do not grow.

The exception is peonies with a closed root system in containers. They can be planted without fear from spring to autumn.

Caring for peonies after planting in open ground

Vegetation of peonies begins in early May and ends in late autumn. Caring for peonies in the open field in spring begins with very gentle loosening of the soil, watering, if necessary, and fertilizing.

Peonies are watered infrequently, but very abundantly, in order to completely wet the earthen lump and the roots that braid it. Since the plant has to grow foliage and prepare for flowering, the peony needs complete mineral fertilizers and nitrogen.

Top dressing of peonies in the open field is done on wet ground. In order for the mixture to quickly get to the suction roots, a shallow hole is made around the bush at a distance of 10-15 cm, into which the solution is poured. In the summer, especially for young plants that have not reached the age of 3-4 years, foliar top dressing with urea is useful. They are introduced three times at intervals of 15–20 days from the moment the shoots appear.

In dry periods, peonies are watered at the rate of 10-15 liters per bush. It is especially important to maintain soil moisture in the first month after spring planting.

On blooming peonies, wilted flowers are regularly removed. On young plants less than 3 years old, any weak buds are also removed. All summer I weed the area under perennials, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, the shoots are cut off, and the soil is mulched. If the planting is carried out correctly, and the plants receive competent and sufficient care, the first flowering of the peony will begin in 2-3 years, gradually becoming brighter and more magnificent.

Planting a peony in autumn - video

Growing beautiful peonies in the garden

Peonies (lat.Paeonia) - decorative garden perennials, characterized by lush and fragrant flowering. In total, there are about 40 species in the culture. In modern floriculture, peonies are divided into two groups - herbaceous, in which the leaves and stems die off every season; and tree-like, preserving the terrestrial part all year round.

Herbaceous peony - cultivar EDULES SUPERBA

Today the collection of flower culture consists of more than 5 thousand varieties. On the territory of Russia, about 500 varieties of domestic and foreign selection are cultivated.

Yellow Grown hybrid peony

These plants reach a height of 60 to 100 cm. They have powerful roots and large dark green leaves. They can be of a wide variety of colors and shades: from pure white to burgundy with a white core.

Peony planting technology

Peonies are very popular among gardeners due to the variety of colors and delicate aroma of flowers. They are quite unpretentious; if desired, any florist can grow them on his site. The main thing is to prepare the ground and land in the right place, adhering to generally accepted technology.

Multi-petaled peony Dolorodell cultivar

Seat selection

A perennial peony can be grown for decades without replanting. But, if he does not like the landing site, he will have to wait for flowering for a very long time.

Peonies, the planting of which consists of several stages, do not tolerate tightness, it is not advisable to plant them near fences and walls of buildings. This culture prefers open, flat terrain, well lit by the sun. The more light falls on the bush, the better it will bloom. In shady areas, peonies stretch out, and flower stalks bend from heavy buds and break.

When choosing a place, consider at what depth the groundwater is located. If at a level of 1 m and above, this can cause root rot and the death of the bush.

Preparing a pit for planting peonies

Peonies thrive on fertile soils, but prefer light loam with good drainage. The landing sites are prepared in advance - 15-20 days in advance, so that the substrate dries up and becomes denser.

On heavy, clayey soils, the pit is prepared 60 cm deep, and on light and loose ones - 50 cm, with a diameter of 60 by 70 cm, this depth will allow the bushes to quickly form strong roots that go deep into the soil.

Preparing a planting pit for peonies

When digging, a 20 cm layer of soil is laid separately, it is used to fix the plant. The bottom of the pit is laid out with expanded clay for drainage of water (can be replaced with broken brick or gravel).

Next, you need to add complementary foods. For its preparation, 300 grams of ash, 100 grams of potassium sulfate, and 100 grams of double superphosphate are added to 5-6 kg of humus. Peonies require medium acidity, ph value 6.5. If it is necessary to deoxidize the soil, add a liter of lime mixture (a kilogram of lime per bucket of water).

Planting peonies in autumn

The optimal time for planting herbaceous peonies in open ground is late summer and early autumn (from August 15 to September 5). It is better not to postpone the dates, since the flower will not have time to take root before the onset of stable cold weather.

Planting peonies in open ground

It is important to observe the depth when landing. It is recommended to place root tubers in the pit in this way: the upper bud of rhizome growth should be 3-5 cm below the soil surface.

To maintain the planting depth, you should use a special boarding board. During the process, the board is installed over the pit and, adhering to the planned values, planting is carried out. If the flower is deepened more, it is fraught with the weakness of the plant, which will lead to poor flowering and frequent diseases.

The seedlings are placed in planting holes, the roots are spread. Then they are covered with a mixture of soil and compost, mixed in equal parts. In this case, the plant is shaken a little in order to prevent the formation of voids between the layers of the soil mixture.

Peony flowers - planting and care, photo

When the planting of peonies in summer is completed, the earth is compacted with hands around the stem. Watered, spending 5-6 liters of water for each bush.

For herbaceous varieties, the optimal distance between bushes is 0.8-1.2 meters.

Herbaceous peonies: planting in spring and care

They start landing in the 2nd decade of April, until the air warms up above plus 10 grams. Celsius. At elevated temperatures, the buds immediately begin to grow, which significantly reduces the survival rate.

Pits for peonies are dug and prepared in advance, as soon as the snow melts. The rest of the procedure is the same as for the autumn-summer planting.

After planting, it is necessary to observe the plant and its adaptation. The lower leaves may wilt and need to be pinched off before they are affected by disease.

Herbaceous peonies - planting and care, photo

Features of planting a tree peony

Peonies of the tree group are classified as tall shrubs growing in height from 1.5-2 meters with straight massive light brown shoots. It is characterized by openwork feathery leaves and large flowers up to 25 cm in diameter. It blooms 10-15 days earlier than the herbaceous species, and is distinguished by relative frost resistance. Subject to the rules of care, it can be grown without transplanting from 20 to 50 years.

Tree peony - planting and care in the open field

A tree-like peony is planted using the same technology as a herbaceous one. Basically, they choose the period from September 1 to 15. The main difference between planting two types of plants is their size. For tree peonies, the distance between the bushes and to the nearest buildings or other plants should be 1.2-1.5 meters; a pit for them is prepared 10 cm larger in diameter and deeper.

Growing peonies in the open field

Planting and caring for peonies consists in observing all the rules of cultivation, organizing regulatory moisture and aeration of the soil, full dressing, as well as protection from parasites and infections.

Peony care during flowering

Watering and loosening the soil

Peonies are moisture-loving. They especially need watering during the period of bud formation. From April to June, if the summer is sultry, watering is organized once a decade, 20 liters per square meter. Due to this periodicity, plants form good renewal buds.

During and after flowering, it is watered less often - twice a month, but more abundantly, making 1 sq.m. planting 40 liters of water. The soil in the near-trunk circles, as soon as the shoots appear, is constantly kept in a loose state. Loosen the soil carefully, not deeply, and not close to the roots, so as not to damage them.

Top dressing

In the first year after planting, young peonies, planting and caring for which does not cause difficulties, practically do not require additional fertilizing. During this period, the roots are actively developing, but poorly assimilate mineral fertilizers. It is recommended to make only foliar top dressing with Kemir or Baikal-M complex fertilizers.

In the spring, during active leaf growth (April and May), plants are sprayed with a solution of Agricola, according to the instructions for use. In mid-June, Ideal fertilizer is applied (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

From the second year of life, the plants are fed systematically. In May, as soon as the leaves begin to bloom, humus or compost is embedded in the soil around the bush. As root dressings, I use nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea diluted in water at the rate of 1 tbsp. 10 liters.

During the formation of peduncles, liquid organic matter (preferably mullein) is introduced with the addition of 1 tbsp. nitrophosphate on a bucket of working solution. Additionally, the leaves and buds are sprayed with the Bud preparation, and 1-2 glasses of ash are added to the trunk circles.

After flowering - in early August, plants are watered with a solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp each. each on a bucket of water.

Peony care during flowering

As a rule, peonies begin to bloom from the age of three.As soon as the buds reach the size of a pea, the plants are stepchild - pluck out the side shoots, leaving one central one on each stem. To stimulate lush bloom.

Installation of supports for peonies

Most varieties form large inflorescences, the bushes often do not withstand their weight and lodge, especially during the rainy season. To support the plants, metal or plastic supports are installed. Faded peduncles are cut off at a level of 15 cm from the ground.

Pruning herbaceous and treelike peonies

Pruning of peonies is started 14 days after flowering. It is not recommended to prune only faded bushes, otherwise they will not have time to form buds for flowering next year. Faded peduncles are cut off at a level of 15 cm from the ground.

Pruning peonies after flowering

In late autumn, as soon as the first frost hits, all the stems of the herbaceous peonies are cut off, leaving the cuttings 10 cm from the ground. The cut leaves and stems are removed and burned. And the soil in the trunks is sprinkled with humus and ash.

Treelike peonies are pruned in spring, in April. Dry and damaged branches are removed, and old ones are shortened by 10 cm. Shoots affected by frost are cut to a living bud. Once every 10 years, the rejuvenation of the bush is carried out, cutting off all the shoots to the base.

Protection from pests and diseases

The main disease of peonies is gray rot, it occurs if the soil under them is swampy, damp or acidic. An overabundance of nitrogen-containing substances can also be the cause of root decay.

To prevent disease in April or October, the bushes are sprayed with copper sulfate, 100 g per bucket of water. Before the peonies are planted in the ground, plots of rhizomes for 5 minutes. placed in a solution of the root formation stimulator Kornevin.

Another common flower disease is powdery mildew. From it, the plants are sprayed with colloidal sulfur, dissolving 40 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

Powdery mildew on peony leaves

Against rust, they are treated with Topaz fungicide or Bordeaux mixture - 100 g of concentrate are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Pests

Most often, peonies are annoyed by ticks, aphids and thrips. To combat them, the following drugs are used - Fitoverm, Agroverin and Confidor according to the instructions.

Methods and rules for breeding peonies

There are several methods by which herbaceous peonies are bred and propagated, planting and care in the open field is possible regardless of the method chosen. Basically, they choose to divide the bush and germinate cuttings, less often by layering.

Seed propagation is used only for the purpose of obtaining new varieties and forms in breeding farms. In gardening, it is not practiced, since varietal characteristics with seeds are practically not transmitted, and flowering occurs only 6-7 years after sowing.

Layers

Thus, bushes that have reached 6 years of age are propagated. Vertical layering is done in April when buds begin to develop. During the season, the bush is well looked after: they spud with fertile soil, organize frequent watering and good nutrition. At the end of summer, well-developed roots are formed on the stems.

Carefully, so as not to damage the buds, the shoots together with the roots are separated from the mother plant and planted in boxes or a greenhouse. Before winter, young plants are covered with peat, straw or spruce branches. Transplantation to flower beds is carried out in 1-2 years.

Cuttings

Rare varieties are propagated by cuttings, when, with an insufficient amount of planting material, you need to get a lot of seedlings. Cuttings are harvested from plants aged 4 years and older. About 15 cuttings are obtained from one such bush, and 30-35 from older ones.

Peony cuttings for reproduction

The best time for grafting is considered to be the period from late May to mid-June. The cut cuttings are kept for 8 hours in a solution of the Heteroauxin root formation stimulator (100 ml per 10 liters of water) and planted in a nursery or greenhouse.

By dividing the bush

The division of the root system is the most effective way by which you can not only propagate, but also rejuvenate peonies that have been growing in one place for more than 8 years. The best period for dividing the peony bush is from August 15 to September 5.

Reproduction of peonies by division

The overgrown bush is first undermined with a shovel, trying not to injure a single root, and carefully removed from the ground. The rhizome is cleaned of the earthy clod with hands, if there is a lot of soil, it is washed off with water from the watering can.

Next, the peonies are left for 3-4 hours in a dry and sunny place so that the roots dry out and share more easily. Immediately before dividing, the shoots are shortened to a height of 10-15 cm from the ground. With the help of a peg, the bush is separated into two halves.

These areas are divided with a knife first into large divisions, and then into smaller ones with several buds, in the places of root plexus. At the same time, they try to save as many young roots that have grown from the rhizome.

The divided parts are placed in a growth stimulant solution for 8 hours, and planted in previously prepared planting pits.

When and how to transplant peonies

Garden peonies do not require frequent replanting. They painfully endure moving to a new place, to which they can adapt for 2-3 years. Plants are transplanted in case of emergency: improper or shallow planting, lack of flowering or its shallowness. Once every ten years, the bushes are planted by dividing the roots.

Transplanting peonies in autumn

The process begins in August or September. The bush is carefully dug out together with an earthen lump. The soil is washed off with water from a watering can or a hose. The cleaned plants are examined, removing diseased plants and shortening long roots. Places of cuts are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with crushed coal.

Preparing peonies for the winter season

Regardless of the species and climatic conditions, peonies, aged from planting to 3 years old, need shelter for the winter. More mature bushes can not be covered, but simply mulched with dry peat or humus.

Shelter of herbaceous peonies for the winter

They begin to build a shelter for herbaceous varieties as soon as a stable sub-zero temperature is established. The cut shoots are covered with loose earth or peat with a layer of 10 cm.

In the northern regions, the layer of mulch is increased to 20 cm. The formed mound is additionally covered with spruce branches, straw or sawdust. In the spring, the shelter is removed.

Tree peonies are covered more thoroughly. First, the stems are pulled together with a cloth twine. Low young bushes are covered with spruce branches, burlap or covering material. Above, in order to protect the plant from wind and snow, a hut of spruce branches or branches of fruit trees is installed after pruning.

Tall shrubs are also tied. A frame made of wood is installed around the plant. The fence must necessarily correspond to the size of the bush or be slightly higher than it. The space between the frame and the plant is covered with dry foliage.

Outcome

Gorgeous peony flowers, planting and caring for which are available even to a novice gardener without special skills, will decorate any garden. Follow the recommendations given in the article, provide the plants with appropriate care, and in a few years your garden will be decorated with abundant and lush flowering of beautiful peonies.

Peonies - one of the most popular ornamental plants - will be a great decoration for any garden. Their spectacular bright flowers with a delicate aroma look great against the background of dark green leaves.

Due to the unpretentiousness, longevity and frost resistance of peonies, they allow even a novice florist to grow these beautiful flowers.

Planting peonies in the open field (photo)

How to choose a place in the garden for peonies

To determine where to plant these flowers correctly on your site, it is important to know the following nuances:

1. Perennial peonies can be grown in a permanent place without transplanting for several years.However, despite the unpretentiousness, in order to obtain lush flowering, you should still take into account some of the nuances when planting peonies in open ground. It is undesirable to plant them along fences, walls of buildings, as they need space and good lighting.

In the shade, peonies stretch out, peduncles bend under the weight of flowers and break. Most often, under such conditions, the plant ceases to bloom altogether.

If you plant peonies on the south side of the site, then the flowers will quickly fade in the sun. Therefore, the best option for their placement would be open, slightly shaded areas, protected from the wind;

2. In terms of soil composition, light loams with a slightly acidic reaction are optimal for peonies (pH = 5.5-6.5). Heavy clay soils before planting must be "refined" - add coarse sand, dolomite flour or lime (1 kg / m2). If sandy loam predominates on the site, then clay is added to them. In both cases, rotted manure or compost is applied to increase soil fertility;

3. Depth of groundwater: at a high level (1 m and above), it is necessary to drain the site.

Planting dates for peonies

Peonies are planted mainly in autumn, and in rare cases in spring... The optimal planting time is from the second half of August to the second week of September. Before the onset of frost, the seedlings will have time to grow young sucking roots and get stronger.

In the spring, peonies are planted after the snow melts, before the buds begin to grow. If planted with buds already awake, then such a plant will lag behind in development from seedlings planted in the fall.

Peony planting technology

Due to the fact that the peony bush will grow in one place for several years and grow, you should plan 1-2 m2 of planting area for each plant. Planting holes are dug 50-60 cm deep and 70-80 cm in diameter.

At the bottom of the hole, drainage is poured from large expanded clay, crushed stone or broken brick.

Then a mound is poured from a mixture of excavated soil mixed with rotted manure or compost (5-6 kg), wood ash (0.5 liter can) and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (for example, 100 g of potassium sulfate and double superphosphate).

The seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are spread, directing them down, and covered with the remaining earth. At the same time, the growth point is deepened by 3-5 cm. With a deeper planting, the plant will be weak, prone to frequent diseases, flowering will be poor or absent altogether.

Planting a peony: 1 - drainage; 2 - mineral-organic soil mixture; 3 - garden land; 4 - the level of deepening of the seedling neck

In order not to be mistaken with depth, it is convenient to use a boarding board or a stick. It is placed across the hole and the desired length is measured.

Using a stick to determine the planting depth of a peony seedling

After planting, the plants are watered, spending 10 liters of water for each. At the same time, the soil settles, so the hole is filled up with earth and mulched with peat or straw.

How to propagate peonies

There are several ways to breed peonies.

Seed method used in breeding work to obtain new varieties. In addition, plants grown from seeds do not retain the varietal characteristics of their "parents" and bloom in 6-7 years of vegetation.

Layers mature flourishing bushes can be propagated. To do this, the bush, as the shoots grow during the season, are spilled 2-3 times to a height of 30-4 cm, watered abundantly and fed.

Peony bush

The buds on such stems are removed. Such activities will give the plant the opportunity to lay flower and vegetative buds and form thin roots on the lower part of the stems. At the end of August, the ground around the shoots is carefully raked, separated from the mother plant and transplanted into a box or greenhouse. For the winter they are covered with mulch (straw, peat). They are planted on flower beds in a year.

Cuttings rare varieties are propagated. At the same time, a lot of planting material can be obtained from one plant (15-35 cuttings).Harvesting is carried out from bushes over 4 years old 10-15 days before the start of flowering. The optimal period for cuttings is the end of May - mid-June. Each cutting should have 2 internodes.

Scheme for cutting cuttings from peony stems

For better rooting, the cuttings are kept for 7-8 hours in a solution of heteroauxin or root and then planted obliquely in a greenhouse to a depth of 3-4 cm and at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other. The first 10-15 days they are sprayed 3 times a day. Rooting occurs in 1.5-2 months. Before wintering, seedlings are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, and chopped straw.

Dividing the bush - the simplest and most effective way of breeding peonies. The best period for this is from August 15 to September 10. Divide the bushes that have been growing in one place for more than 8 years. This procedure will also rejuvenate them.

The selected plant is undermined from all sides with a garden pitchfork (root trauma will be less than when using a shovel) and carefully pull the bush out of the ground. The soil is shaken off from the rhizome, and its remnants are washed off with water from a watering can or a hose. After that, the dug out bush is left to dry in a dry place for 3-5 hours. Before dividing, the tops are cut to 10-15 cm.

The rhizome is divided into parts so that each of them has 2-3 growth buds on the root collar and at least 15 cm long roots. Places of cuts on the roots are powdered with charcoal powder and left to dry. Then they are planted in a prepared place.

Dividing the peony bush

Outdoor peonies care (photo)

Even a beginner in floriculture can take care of peonies. During the period of active growth in spring, budding and flowering peonies need constant abundant watering... One bush consumes 1-2 buckets of water at a time. Peonies are watered every 10 days until the end of summer. After watering the ground in near-trunk circles loosen.

Peonies love good nutrition, which differs depending on the age of the plants.

Young peonies (up to 3 years old), when planting which nutrients were added to the planting pits, do not need additional root feeding. To build up the leaf mass in the spring during the emergence of seedlings, you can spray with a solution of complex fertilizers. Repeat after 2 weeks.

If the planting technology has been violated, then feeding will have to start already in the first year of the growing season. In April, planting peonies is watered with a mullein solution (1:10) with the addition of 200 g of superphosphate and 300 g of wood ash. Instead of this "cocktail", you can use a nitrophoska (100g / m2). The second feeding is carried out in mid-May. For the third time (in mid-June), phosphorus and potassium-containing preparations are introduced.

Adult flowering peonies have a different nutritional requirement. In the spring they need nitrogen and potassium. As such substances, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate (60g / m2) can be scattered around the bushes. The second time the plants are fed during the budding period with complex fertilizers (Kemira-universal, Agricola, etc.). After flowering, peonies are watered with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Important! All dressings are applied after watering the plants (with the exception of those scattered over the snow).

Peony flower stalks have several buds. To achieve larger flowers, the lateral buds are plucked out. Thanks to this, the central flower will be large. Often the stems do not support the weight of blossoming inflorescences and tilt towards the ground. Therefore, it is necessary to install a circular support around the bush to prevent it from falling apart.

An example of a circular support for peony bushes

The faded flower heads are periodically removed.

After the plant has completely bloomed and loses its decorative effect, as much as you would not like, but you do not need to cut the tops. During this period, peonies begin to lay new buds, and the presence of leaves for photosynthesis is very important at this time.

Only in the fall, when there is a massive yellowing of the ground part of the bush, it is cut off to 10-15 cm from the ground level.

After that, young plants are mulched with peat or chopped straw. Adult plants do not need shelter.

We present the rules for planting and caring for a tree peony in the open field: location, soil, distance, depth and planting hole. We consider leaving in spring, summer and autumn: flowering, feeding, watering and pruning. We will separately dwell on the preparation for winter and shelter of the peony.

Own-rooted and grafted tree peonies: is there a difference?

Own-rooted peonies

Advantages. Long life expectancy from several decades to several centuries (usually bloom profusely for at least 25-30 years). High resilience and resistance to frost and disease. Free reproduction by dividing the rhizome.

Inconvenience. Conventionally, disadvantages can be called: slow growth and development of the plant in the first five years, therefore it blooms later - in the 4th-6th year. At this age, the bushes are usually 60-70 cm in height.

Grafted peonies

Advantages. Fast growth (20-40 cm per season) and flowering (1-3rd year).

Inconvenience. Shorter lifespan. They cannot be propagated by dividing the bush and must be immediately planted in a permanent place - they do not tolerate transplanting well.

At the same time, the grafted peonies often form shoots near the bush, which can be dug up and planted. Otherwise, it must be removed in order for the flower to develop better.

How to tell?

A seedling of a self-rooted peony has many long and thin roots (thickness - 6-9 mm), they are lighter. The grafted flower has roots from a herbaceous peony (cylindrical succulent rhizome) of greater thickness (3-5 cm) and darker.

Japanese grafted tree peony seedlings

Advice

Some growers, in order not to wait for the flowering of their own rooted tree-like peony, plant two types of seedlings. It turns out that the grafted specimen quickly blooms and brings joy, and the self-rooted one gradually grows and becomes a symbol of the family for many years.

Planting a tree peony: location, soil, distance and depth

LANDING AREA

Experts advise to immediately choose a permanent place with optimal factors for the development and flowering of a tree peony. It should be well lit in the morning and evening, and in the afternoon it is better to have a little shade, since the midday heat reduces the flowering time.

• Therefore, it is better to plant on the east side so that there is maximum amount of light in the morning. Protection from strong winds and drafts is also necessary, frequent gusts of wind worsen the laying of flower buds.

Cannot be planted in low-lying areas, in an area with high groundwater levels or prone to waterlogging. Even 1-2 days of water with melting snow or heavy rain lead to negative consequences. If this is likely to happen, plant on high ridges and make gutters.

LANDING DISTANCE

The distance between the peonies is 1.3-1.8 m, other small plants can grow between them. The distance to the nearest large bushes and buildings is at least 2 meters, and to trees - 3 meters. The roots of shrubs and trees will deplete the soil, and the walls of buildings will heat up in summer.

GROUND FOR LANDING

Tree peonies are not selective, but they prefer loamy soil with high moisture and air permeability.

Heavy soils should be diluted with sand and humus, fresh manure should be avoided. Sandy loam soils need to be improved by adding clay and compost, but still the flowers are less decorative and age faster.

The worst is peaty soil due to its high acidity, therefore more wood ash and additionally slaked lime are added.

The optimum acidity level is pH 6.1-6.8. Excessive acidity must be reduced.

We recommend reading: «SOIL ACIDITY: HOW TO RECOGNIZE AND REDUCE?».

How to plant a tree peony correctly? Instructions

1. Landing pit. Cone-shaped, width - 70-75, and depth - 65-81 cm. It is better to dig a hole 18-35 days before planting.
2. Drainage. It is recommended to make a 16-19 cm drainage layer of gravel, broken brick or sand at the bottom of the planting pit.
3. Soil mix. Put rotted manure on top of the drain. The soil mixture is prepared in equal parts from earth (top layer), peat and humus + add 140-210 g of superphosphate and 310-390 g of bone meal or wood ash. If the soil is clay, then you also need to add 7-9 kg of river sand, and 1-1.5 buckets of clay into the sandy soil.
4. Planting depth. The root collar is placed in the soil so that the renewal buds are at the level of the soil surface. The grafted specimens are planted so that the grafting site is 9-14 cm below the soil surface.

   Adjusting the planting depth of the peony

5. Landing. The components are mixed and poured into the pit. The roots are spread on the seedling for maximum contact with the soil, and they are planted on the resulting cone. The root collar should not touch humus to prevent fungal diseases. After planting, pour water over the pit, and then fill up with ordinary earth, no more than 3-4 cm on top of the renewal buds.

• If the pH is below 6.5, add 100 grams of hydrated lime to the top dressing layer, and if it is below 6.0, add 200 grams per bush.

Planting a tree peony in spring or autumn: when is it necessary?

According to scientific experts, the most favorable time for planting a tree peony is from August 20 to September 30 (Middle lane, Moscow region). Moreover, September 15-25 is considered the best period, according to Chinese masters - the autumn solstice + - 1 day.

Seedlings with closed root system (closed root system) can be planted in spring and even summer. Still, it is better to dig a peony in a pot bought in spring in partial shade until August - September, so that it adapts better. Then you transfer (always with a lump of earth) to a permanent place and make a shelter for the winter.

Peony transshipment into the ground

But seedlings without a pot (OCS) are best planted only at the indicated favorable time or, in extreme cases, in early spring.

Why is it better to plant tree peonies in the fall than in the spring?

It is better to store seedlings from spring to autumn dug in on the site not because of fears of their death.

But because planting in the spring will take away from them the nutrients intended for the growth of shoots and flowering, which are accumulated in the storage rhizome. Because of this, the flower will not develop suction roots and will not make up for losses.

As a result, a lot of time will be spent on recuperation for the next flowering. And planting a seedling in a container creates favorable conditions for it. Low temperature prolongs the dormant period, it is easier to protect it from drying out and waterlogging, as well as from frost and drafts.

How to save a seedling before planting in August or September?

Often seedlings with an open root system are brought in massively from China at the end of winter. In this case, plant a cut in a 3-4 liter pot, put it in a cool and dark place (cellar, basement) and slightly moisten the soil (without waterlogging (!)) So that the flower remains at rest for as long as possible.

After the start of the growth of the shoots, transfer the pot to the windowsill and water as little as possible. In May - June, place in the garden in a quiet and shady place. And in August or September, plant it in a permanent place.

Tree peony care after planting

The first spring is a key time in the life of a flower. From May to mid-June is the most favorable period for feeding.

1. Pour a solution with a complex mineral fertilizer (for example, "Kemira Spring - Summer") + nitrogen (ammonium nitrate 40-50 g) into a circular hole to accelerate the formation of the root system and intensive vegetation.
2. In the first growing season, foliar feeding is more effective. Sprinkle the bush three times: 1. After the start of shoot growth - 30-40 grams of urea / 5 liters of water. 2. After 14-19 days, 30-40 grams of urea (carbamide) and a tablet with microelements / 5 liters of water. 3. After 2-3 weeks, two tablets / 5 liters of water.
3. If there is no rain, then water every 2-3 days for the first 15-19 days after planting.In the future, water the bush during drought is better less often, but abundantly: 11-16 liters per bush. Loosen the soil the next day to provide oxygen to the roots.
4. Preparing for winter 1-2. In mid-October, the seedlings must be covered with a 11-14 cm layer of peat and covered with a bucket. Using straw, foliage or manure is not recommended. In the spring, the mulch is harvested, and the next fall, they are covered again.

What year will the tree peony bloom after planting?

A grafted seedling with normal development usually blooms in the 2-3rd year, and self-rooted in the 4th-6th year.

First bloom

A tree peony does not need to rush to pick the first flower (not like in herbaceous species). If he was able to form a flower bud and bloomed, it means that he developed the root system sufficiently.

It is necessary to cut the first flower after full flowering, i.e. as soon as it is fully revealed.

If the bush has two sprouts and buds, then wait until the stage of the colored bud. Then gently remove (pinch) the top bud or pierce its base with a needle. Then it will dry out, and the plant will not waste nutrients.

If the bud is cut off before this stage, then the growth point located at the top of the shoot will be damaged, which is fraught with stopping its growth.

• At the first flowering, the flower often does not coincide with the declared characteristics of the variety. All varietal characteristics usually appear during the third flowering, especially in densely double flowers and with an unusual shape of the petals.

Tree peony: care in spring, summer and autumn (feeding, watering)

WHEN TO OPEN A TREE PEONY IN SPRING?

You can remove the winter shelter after the snow has completely melted, at the time when crocuses begin to bloom. Approximate terms for the Moscow region: late March - early April.

Spring pruning of peony

Before the beginning of the growing season (March - April), it is recommended to prune for a beautiful formation and extension of the life of the bush. To do this, cut the shoots at the level of the first growth bud from the top, and shorten the weak ones by 9-12 cm above the ground.

Attention! If found, do not cut off the frozen shoots and wait until the end of May. If the flower does not recover, then cut them to the first living bud, then it will begin to grow again.

Pruning a tree peony in spring

Top dressing and fertilizers: subtleties and order

The best food for tree peony: wood ash, bone meal and mineral fertilizers with a high concentration of potassium and phosphorus, and a low concentration of nitrogen. It is convenient to fertilize together with watering.

Autumn is the best time for organic fertilization. The bush can be overlaid with compost (rotted manure) - 3-5 kg, and then dig up the soil 11-14 cm deep. Fresh manure is categorically not advised to use; from contact with it, the roots are affected by rot.

1. Preventive. After the snow melts, water the soil around the peony with potassium permanganate (2-3 grams per five liters of water - one bush) to prevent diseases.
2. Nitrogen-potassium for growth. As soon as the snow has melted, it is better to apply nitrogen and potash fertilizers - 1: 1. Spread 16-21 grams of nitrogen (ammonium nitrate - 40-60 grams) and potassium (potassium salt - 16-21 grams) on the ground at a distance of 16-21 cm from the rhizome.
   You can replace 40-60 grams of nitrophoska or take something like Kemir Spring / Summer. Then dig 9-11 cm deep and cover with a thin layer of compost. Together with water after rain or watering, substances will get to the roots.
3. Potash phosphoric for powerful flowering. At the beginning of budding (12-16 days before flowering), liquid feeding is carried out with potash (40-50 g) and phosphorus fertilizers (20-30 g) - 2: 1.
   Potassium and phosphorus will provide abundant flowering. Additionally, you can water 10 liters of mullein infusion (only bushes over five years old) or dissolve mineral fertilizers in it.
4. Bloom. During the flowering of the peony or after it, after 3-5 days, repeat the potassium-phosphorus feeding.

• An overabundance of nutrients should be avoided and the measure of feeding should be observed.
• To improve nitrogen metabolism, it is advisable to carry out foliar feeding (spraying) with boric acid - 1 gram per 500 g of water every 15-20 days before flowering.

Watering a tree peony

Obligatory watering: 13-16 days before flowering (15-25 liters) and 13-16 days after flowering. Do not allow the soil to dry out in July - August (it is often dry and hot), and the plant starts buds of renewal and needs water. Watering is stopped at the end of August.

In general, it is best to water sparingly but abundantly. Usually, 2-4 waterings per summer are obtained with sufficient rainfall. Be sure to loosen the soil after watering (rain) so that there is no crust and maximum oxygen flows to the roots.

Hole around the bush for watering and fertilizing

Summer: flowering, post-flowering peony care and pruning

Bloom

Treelike peonies bloom in late May - early June (Middle lane, Moscow region). First non-double, after 3-5 days - terry, and later for 1-2 weeks yellow-flowered semi-shrubs. Medium varieties bloom in mid-June, and late varieties from the end of the month to early July.

The flowering period is 11-16 days, a little less in hot weather, and more in cool weather.

BOUQUET CUTTING RULES

• Cut no more than half of the flowers to make it easier for the peony to recover.
• When cutting a flower, at least 2-3 leaves should remain on the remaining shoot on the bush.
• Advice. For fuller flowers, cut off 25-30% of the resulting buds at the "pea" stage.

SUPPORT

For varieties with large flowers, support the flower with reinforcement or stakes with a wire ring. Now there are special bush holders on sale, for example:

Ready support for peonies

Post-flowering care: pruning

After flowering, the stem is trimmed two buds below the faded bud. And also weeds are regularly pulled out. Watering and fertilizing according to the recommendations in these sections.

Pruning a tree peony after flowering

Tree peony: care in the fall and preparation for winter

Autumn care of a tree peony is reduced to digging a trunk circle (60-80 cm in diameter) at a depth of 10-13 cm.On top, you can remove the top layer and pour sand into which small-bulbous flowers (anemone, kandyk, crocus, muscari, scrub, scilla). They bloom in early spring and decorate the wintering site with their flowers.

Transplant and reproduction

Read about transplanting a tree peony in the fall and reproduction in a separate material at the end of the page.

Preparation for winter: is it necessary or not?

In the Moscow region and throughout the European part of the CIS, tree peonies normally hibernate without shelter in a quiet and wind-protected place. Although in winter the earth can freeze over a meter in depth, and the temperature can drop below -30 degrees.

• In the open area: Middle lane, Moscow region, North-West, Ural and Siberia better cover them for the winter "just in case of fire."
• But young (1-2 years old) tree peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, it is enough to pour an 11-14 cm layer of peat around the bush and cover with a bucket.

Do I need to prune a tree peony in the fall for the winter?

Experts do not recommend pruning tree varieties in the fall. It is better to spend it in the spring. More details in the chapter - "Cropping".

Shelter for the winter tree peony

1. It is imperative to tie the bush with a ribbon, tourniquet or rope in mid to late October, but not tightly and neatly so that the branches do not freeze to the snow and break off in the spring.
2. After the onset of stable subzero temperatures (November), cover the bush with spruce branches, white (!) Burlap, agrofibre or lutrasil (leave gaps for air at the bottom).
   Instead of a spruce tree hut, a tree-like peony is often covered with a cardboard box, plastic boxes or a barrel for the winter. If the branches rest against the bottom, it is better to cut them off a little, since they will freeze and still have to be cut in the spring.
   Shelter with burlap allows you to preserve peonies in winter and often more often serves as protection not from frost, but from hares and birds - so as not to damage the kidneys.

• To increase the frost resistance of the flower due to better ripening of the shoots, you can cut off the leaves by 2/3 of the length at the end of September.
• Even if the buds of the bush, which had bloomed for 2-3 years before that, are frozen, do not worry. At the end of May, cut off such shoots to the first living bud, and then they will easily grow back.

Pruning tree peonies: bush formation and rejuvenation

In general, the flowers are characterized by good pruning tolerance and rapid growth of new shoots. When pruning a bush, you need to understand that it will bloom on last year's shoots.

Bush formation

To form a bush, it is advised to cut woody shoots at a height of 70-90 cm. It is this height that contributes to the excellent development and flowering of the tree peony in our climate, and also makes it easier to shelter for the winter. Although the shrub itself can grow up to 2-2.5 meters in the European part of the CIS.

Rejuvenation

To rejuvenate the flower and awaken the adventitious buds, it is recommended to cut the stems of the treelike peony every 10-20 years to the upper axillary point (3-4 cm from ground level). This procedure promotes more lush flowering and prolongs the life of the plant, up to a hundred years or more.

Diseases and pests

Tree peonies are very resistant plants, including pests and diseases. The greatest danger is gray rot, and the best remedy is prevention.

If damaged, treat the plants with a fungicide. For example, potassium permanganate - 3 grams per 10 liters of water or copper sulfate - 60-70 grams per 10 liters of water.

For prevention, be sure to spray the flowers in the spring (mass regrowth of shoots), before and after flowering with a fungicide.

For example, copper sulfate (40 g per 10 liters of water or 4 g per m2), iodine solution (1 ml per 400 ml), potassium permanganate (1 g per 4 l) or onion husk infusion (pour 100 g of 5 liters of water and leave for 24 hours ).

Read more in the article: HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? Section - funds and preparations.

What is the best seedling to choose?

It is best if the tree peony seedling has 2-3 lignified shoots with unblown, rather large dark red glossy buds (dormant state) 18-25 cm in height.

• The high cost of seedlings is explained by the fact that when dividing a bush, few divisions are obtained (2-5).

Most of them are brought from nurseries in China, Japan and Poland. Many experts believe that foreign planting material is less prepared for our climate and recommend buying seedlings of Russian varieties.

Russian tree peonies are highly winter-hardy and thrive in the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia.

However, there are more chances to buy them from residents of Moscow and the Moscow region, since many of them are grown in the Botanical Garden at Moscow University. Much credit for this belongs to Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya.

• Be sure to study the characteristics of the variety: winter hardiness, survival in your climate and external signs (height, flowering time, flower features - terry, shade and diameter).

TIPS

1. If the buds of a delenka with an open root system (without a pot) have already blossomed, then its quality is much reduced.
2. When buying a seedling without a pot, be sure to inspect the root system so that there are as few rotten or broken roots as possible. And their length should ideally be equal to the height of the seedling.
3. The larger the seedling, the longer it will take root in a new place.
4. If at the base of the lignified shoot is a cylindrical succulent rhizome, then it is a scion of a tree-like peony on a herbaceous rootstock. (See reproduction by vaccinations).

Important! Damage to the buds during transport or planting results in a 1-2 year delay in flowering.

An interesting fact for residents and guests of Moscow

In the capital of Russia, the oldest botanical garden, founded in 1706 by Peter I, is known as the "Pharmaceutical garden". So, tree peonies were planted in it back in the 19th century, and they still bloom there. They are now about 140-160 cm tall.

Near the botanical garden (metro station Prospekt Mira) there are many greenhouses with exotic and rare plants open to the public. There is also a website and an Instagram profile, where you can find out the time and cost of excursions. In addition, a plant shop is open from mid-April until late autumn.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. TRANSPORTATION AND REPRODUCTION OF THE TREE PION - HOW BETTER?

2. CORRECT LANDING OF PIONES IN SPRING AND AUTUMN - OVERVIEW!

3. TRANSFERRING THE PIONES TO ANOTHER PLACE - SUBSTANCE AND TILT!

4. CARE AND CULTIVATION OF PIONES TO FLOWER!

5. REPRODUCTION OF HERBAL PIONES - ALL WAYS!

6. SPECIES AND BEST VARIETIES OF PIONE - PHOTOS AND NAMES!

7. ARE BLUE AND BLUE PIONES ALSO AVAILABLE?

Afterword

In this guide to planting and caring for tree-like peonies, many of the recommendations are consistent with the article from the Appendix "Household economy" from the magazine "Selskaya Nov". The author of the article is M.S.Uspenskaya, the issue was signed for publication on 23.10.1991. And also the book "Peonies" from Marianna Sergeevna.

Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya is familiar to every person who is interested in peonies. This is a real guru and a man-legend, candidate of biological sciences (1982), senior researcher (1967) of the Botanical Garden at Moscow State University and the author of many varieties.

By the way, on the Internet, 95% of the information about the agricultural technology of tree peonies is the processing of the works of Marianna Sergeevna. However, most of them resemble the game "broken phone" and contain conflicting information. Our editorial office keeps the original of this issue of the journal and the book, i.e. we studied the original source.

Finally, a video with the participation of the legendary Marianna Sergeevna and her live advice.

We wish your flowers to be healthy and bloom profusely every year!

This amazingly beautiful garden flower has become a cult in its homeland. The tree peony is on a small Chinese coin, celebrations are held in honor of it and works of art are created. Growing this flower is challenging, but its delightful bloom pays for the hassle.

Tree peony: requirements for growing

This flower cannot be called capricious, but in order to achieve lush flowering and preserve the plant in frosty winters, certain agricultural techniques should be observed.

Landing in open ground

These adorable flowers are long-lived. There are plants in China that were planted over 800 (!) Years ago. In our harsh climate, they cannot hold out so much, but in order for their flowering to please not only you, but also your children and grandchildren, tree peonies must be planted correctly.

This plant does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil, therefore, its planting should provide for drainage, which is made from small stones or small pieces of brick.

With a high standing of groundwater, plants are planted on high ridges.

Site and soil preparation

Tree peonies do not tolerate transplantation well, therefore, in order for planting and further care to lead to abundant flowering, you need to immediately determine their habitat.

It must meet the following conditions:

• be well lit throughout the day, a small lace shadow is allowed and even desirable in the hottest time - this will prolong flowering;
• be protected from strong winds - they prevent flower buds from forming;
• do not have stagnant water - even a few days of being in the water during the melting of snow in spring is enough and the flowers may die;
• remoteness from other plants - the roots of the tree peony react negatively to the presence of "neighbors";
• if several varieties are planted, the distance between the plants should not be less than one and a half meters - the diameter of the crown of a tree-like peony is equal to its height, and this flower does not grow in cramped conditions.

Tree peonies do not like either heavy clay soils or too light sandy soils. The best option is loam, which has good moisture permeability and air saturation. Soil acidity is another important indicator, which should be in the range from 6.1 to 6.8.

If the soil does not meet the requirements of the plants, it has to be improved by adding the necessary components and liming. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil. Liming is always best done in the fall and in no case should it be combined with the application of nitrogen fertilizers, since nitrogen is lost during the application of lime. If such a procedure could not be carried out in the fall, when planting in a hole, ash must be added, which not only reduces the acidity of the soil, but also contains micro and macro elements necessary for plants.

How and when to plant?

The best time to plant a tree peony is from August to October. The warmer the region where the plant grows, the later it can be planted. The main rule that should be followed is that at least a month should pass from planting to the arrival of frost. The flower needs this time to take root well.

1. A pit for planting a peony in the ground is prepared in advance so that the earth settles, the most correct thing is to do it in the spring. The land must be thoroughly cleared of weeds. The planting pit must have a depth and diameter of at least fifty centimeters.
2. The lowest layer is drainage. Its thickness depends on the natural moisture content of the soil, but not less than twenty centimeters. If the soil is peaty, it is completely changed. Other types of soil are adjusted according to the requirements of the plant. In any case, the bottom layer should consist of humus or a mixture of bone meal and removed soil in a ratio of one to two with the addition of two hundred grams of superphosphate and one hundred and fifty grams of potassium sulfate. Bone meal will naturally enrich the soil with phosphorus. It is very good to add a glass of wood ash. Planting a tree peony is done so as to exclude contact of the roots with fertilizers - this can lead to their burns and further decay.
3. A plant is placed in a plastic container, half filled with a prepared earthen mixture and watered, the bottom is carefully cut off along the perimeter and carefully pulled out from under the flower. Then the sides are cut and the container is completely removed. The pit is filled up to the top, controlling the location of the root collar - it should be at the level of the pit edges. It is better to carry out the last operation with an assistant.
4. If a seedling with a closed root system, carefully remove it from the pot and then act as in the first case.
5. The main condition for proper planting is to preserve the suction roots as much as possible. After the procedure, the plant is well watered, water needs five liters per bush. If you dissolve a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin, root) in water at the rate on the package, this will help the plant to root more successfully.

If there is a desire to make the grafted plant self-rooted, the root collar is deepened ten to fifteen centimeters. In this case, you will need to take care of the supply of additional heat to the roots. Not closer than fifteen centimeters from the plant, two or three bottles of dark glass are half buried in a circle with the neck down. You can moisten rags with kerosene and put them in bottles. The smell of kerosene will save the roots from damage by moles and bear.

In practice, the mass delivery of the roots of tree peonies occurs at the end of winter - beginning of spring. Nevertheless, it is better not to plant the plant during this period. Why is spring planting undesirable?

Seedlings with an open root system have practically no thin suction roots that feed the plant. If you plant peonies in the spring, they quickly start to grow under the influence of high temperature. This is facilitated by the reserves of nutrients in the rhizomes, which are quickly depleted.In warmth, the growth of suction roots is slow and the result is an imbalance between the underground and aboveground parts of the plant. From a lack of nutrition, the plants weaken, all the strength will go to their restoration, which means that you will not have to wait for flowering next year. Therefore, it is better to grow seedlings with an open root system by planting them in a plastic bottle with loose soil and holes made for water drainage. They keep her in a cold basement.

Tree peony: outdoor care

For the well-being of plants and so that they do not stop blooming, tree peonies need proper care. This flower does not forgive negligence, therefore, all agrotechnical measures must be performed strictly.

Peony watering schedule

These beautiful flowers are watered infrequently, but abundantly. In the absence of precipitation, it is enough to do this 4 times a month, pouring at least 6 liters of water under each plant. In hot weather, water more often. Mulching will help maintain the required moisture level. Watering is gradually reduced starting in August and stopped altogether at its end. The earth under the bushes is regularly weeded.

Fertilization and feeding

This flower loves to eat, so feeding begins in early spring.

Tree peony feeding schedule:

1. After the snow melts, it is necessary to process the land around the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of three grams per half a ten-liter bucket of water. This amount is enough to water one bush.
2. The first feeding with potash and nitrogen fertilizers is carried out over the snow. One bush will need fifty grams of ammonium nitrate and twenty grams of potassium sulfate. Top dressing is evenly scattered under the bush, and the melt water will deliver food to the roots.
3. The second feeding is carried out when the buds are formed. It should include all macronutrients: ten grams of nitrogen per plant, twelve grams of potassium, fifteen grams of phosphorus in terms of the effective weight of the fertilizer.
4. The bushes of last year's planting respond very well to foliar feeding, which is carried out in cloudy, but not rainy weather. The bushes are sprayed with a urea solution from a spray bottle (first feeding) at the rate of fifty grams per ten-liter bucket and complex fertilizer with the addition of trace elements (second feeding) according to the instructions on the package. Top dressing is carried out in the waxing moon phase.
5. Caring for these flowers in the summer comes down to mandatory feeding at the end of flowering with a solution of twenty-five grams of superphosphate and ten grams of potassium sulfate per ten liters of water per square meter.

Plant pruning

Spring pruning is usually done.

1. If the bush is not frozen, then pruning is best done immediately after removing the shelter before the start of the growing season. As a rule, the upper part of the shoot is cut to the first bud of growth.
2. Weak branches need to be shortened so that their height from the soil level is from nine to twelve centimeters.
3. Sometimes it seems that the escape is frozen. In this case, you need to wait for the beginning of the growing season, and if the buds do not wake up by the end of May, you will have to cut off the shoot to the healthy part.
4. In order not to deplete the young bush, some of the buds are removed from it before flowering.

Transplant nuances

The plant has a negative attitude to transplanting, it really does not like it when its root system is disturbed. If there is such a need, only adult bushes at the age of 5-6 years can be transplanted. The transplanting process is identical to planting a flower. It is necessary to prepare for the fact that the first time after transplantation, the tree peony will develop poorly.

Preparing for winter

The zone of winter hardiness of most tree peonies is 4-5. In more severe climates, plants require winter shelter. The buds, as well as the leaves of the plant, are damaged by late spring frosts.

The most winter-hardy are peonies of the Rock subspecies. Frosts up to 40 degrees are not terrible for them.

To prepare the tree peony for winter, after the first frost, all the leaves are removed from the bushes and burned. The bush is neatly tied. It is impossible to bend it to the ground, since its shoots are very fragile. The soil under the plant is covered with a thick layer of humus. When stable frosts have come, the plants are covered with burlap or non-woven material.

Reproduction of tree peony

These plants can be propagated in the following ways.

1. Reproduction by grafting. A very effective, but also the most difficult way. It requires the root of a herbaceous peony lacto-flowered and a stalk that has two buds from a young shoot of a tree-like peony. The end of the cutting is shaped like a wedge. A hole in the root is made of the same shape and size. A stalk is inserted there and the grafting site is tied with a strip of soft film. The resulting vaccinations are stored covered with wet sawdust in the dark and planted in a greenhouse a month later, deepening the vaccination site by seven centimeters. Growing in a greenhouse is carried out for two years, and inoculation is carried out in August.
2. Reproduction by division. The easiest way. You can divide your own rooted bushes that have reached the age of six. Treelike peonies are divided in the same way as herbaceous ones.
3. Reproduction by layering. For this method, in the spring, a branch is chosen that is strongly inclined to the ground, a small incision is made on it and treated with a root formation stimulator. The branch is bent to the soil and sprinkled with earth with a layer of about ten centimeters. The rooted shoot is planted the next year.
4. Propagation by cuttings. This method is no different from cutting roses. The stalk is taken semi-lignified, with one bud, and rooted in a mini-plate. Cuttings are carried out at the end of June. The soil is a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. Planting depth - one and a half centimeters. If the cutting takes root, which is rare, it is grown in a greenhouse.
5. Seed reproduction. A method for breeders, as the plants do not retain their parental traits. The seeds of the tree peony have a low germination rate, and when they are stored, it becomes even less. After harvesting, the seeds are scarified and sown in moist fertile soil. Sowing depth up to three centimeters. Seedlings have to wait from two to five years.

How to get rid of pests and diseases?

Healthy bushes are quite resistant to diseases, while weakened plants most often have gray rot and brown spot.

1. When signs of gray rot appear, spraying with potassium permanganate helps - three grams per ten-liter bucket or a solution of copper sulfate of six percent concentration.
2. If the plant is sick with brown spot, all leaves with signs of the disease are removed and burned. The plant itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid. Its concentration is one percent.

There are also viral diseases of pions: Lemoine's disease, verticillary wilting and mosaic of leaves. Affected plants are removed from the flower garden, since it is impossible to cure them.

1. Treelike peonies are annoyed by ants attracted by the sweet secretions of the buds. They are fought with repellents.
2. Aphids are washed off with a stream of water or destroyed with insecticides: "Aktellik" or "Fitoverm".
3. They are saved from thrips by spraying tree-like peonies with "Karbofos" 0.2% concentration.

Use in landscape design

The flower of the emperor can become an excellent tapeworm in a flower garden of any size or just on a lawn. Several plants will perfectly decorate the background of the flower garden. Low varieties will be appropriate in rock gardens, peonies are also good next to conifers.

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in terms of the level of complexity from the garden worries with its closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower is a deciduous plant.

Tree peony, photo:

↑ to the table of contents ↑ Features of the tree peony

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has upright powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also carved, as it were, openwork feathery leaves. Multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which in diameter can reach from 14 to 23 cm.The tree-like peony is striking in its color range, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire ) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).

Sizes of flowers, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also varied: terry, semi-double, ordinary smooth. A remarkable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the usual peony. He has a higher tolerance to cold, he has a more stable "immunity" in comparison with his herbaceous counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is distinguished by abundant flowering, the number of blossoming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, by itself is capable of decorating any summer cottage or flower bed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious; with its individuality, it appropriately emphasizes a hedge, an arch, an area near a gazebo, a garden bench or the entrance to a house.

↑ back to content ↑ What is the difference between a tree peony and a herbaceous one?

The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a shrub. In the herbaceous, closer to the cold, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like one only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In the fall, he naturally sheds foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if lignified.

One more point, on a tree-like representative, you do not need to periodically cut the buds to stimulate the subsequent flowering and distribution of the plant's vitality. This method only works well with its herbaceous cousin. Tree-like in its "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special covering material. You can also use spruce branches for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then the period of its flowering will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms earlier than its herbaceous counterpart by one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia, they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without replanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground.First, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, grows shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years, it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, for the first five years it generally adds very slowly in volume and growth. The temporary difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

To briefly summarize the main difference in what distinguishes a tree from a herbaceous one, you can use the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• the hardness of the escape.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. In order for the bush to begin to give flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

↑ back to contents ↑ Why does the tree peony not bloom?

This question can be seen very often on themed flower forums or various horticultural groups on social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly chosen planting site, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, non-observance of the correct burial of the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet at the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, it takes more than one year for the tree-like peony to give color).

The place for placing the bushes should be light and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant really does not like transplanting - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be performed very carefully. It is necessary to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen lump, be careful not to damage the roots. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will come to its senses for a very long time, get sick and adapt in a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has a big effect on flowering. Water should be done abundantly and generously at a time, but not often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if clay soil prevails on your site, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (put a drainage layer in the hole under the flower). It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

Bud, photo:

Let me summarize the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive deepening of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overdoing it with nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient provision of fertilizing (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Disease should also not be discounted. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early flowering varieties.
5. A banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Transplantation (sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogged soil. Remember that between waterings, the soil should have time to dry out.

Many gardeners would like the flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of its herbaceous brother. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to breed new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (new generation peonies) - but this is a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (it needs space), photo:

↑ to the content ↑ Important - the choice of seedlings

Pay attention to the planting material - its root system can be open or closed. When purchased at the appropriate points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a ready-made pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or has its own roots. If there is a graft, then the roots differ in dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. Such representatives may have flowers in the first year of life after planting. Such specimens must be obtained from appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and not otherwise.

Saplings, photo:

If you got a seedling obtained from a layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you can see the flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the "scheme" for obtaining layering: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a cut, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 capable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

↑ to the content ↑ Tree peony - planting and care in the open field

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered to be the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, determine for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Dense trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a thick shade - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. As for planting in spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering are activated.

Loam is an ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so in advance "deacidify" it by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it must be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, the diameter is the same). Lay a drainage layer at the bottom of the recess, about 30-35 cm, crushed stone or fine gravel are perfect for this business. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing difficult here: build a small mound of earth in the hole, put a bush on it, gently straighten the roots, pour water generously. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

If you are planting several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant from another!

The so-called "finickyness" consists in finding the golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but a thick shade is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with decay of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a gorgeous lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the nutrition of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and an awareness of success, what has happened, grown, blooms and smells!

Peony tree planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole should "mature", as it were. I already wrote above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced flower growers, this hole should be prepared a month before planting the seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the hole.
2. When the seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a "pie" in advance on the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add a complex top dressing on top, sprinkle 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If a seedling fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, then "sleep" it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable earth mixture, bury a bush in it, place it in a cool, but lighted room. During this entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it for permanent residence in the open ground.

It is up to you to listen to these additions or plant a plant without much tweaks. As practice shows, with proper observance of all requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to care for a tree peony?

The main care for him, in principle, is the same as for herbaceous. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

↑ to contents ↑ Watering

One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be done at least 2 times a month. In doing so, take into account the possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, water volumes during irrigation should be gradually reduced until they are completely eliminated. It is recommended to plow the ground around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries up. The depth of immersion of the garden tool in the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

↑ to content ↑ Fertilizers

Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it must be applied regularly. Nitrogen fertilizing is relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, it will be possible to add a little nitrogen. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so it is up to you to add nitrogen during this period or not.Sometimes it’s better not to do it than to overdo it - this is just such a case with regard to nitrogen fertilization. Do not forget to moisten the soil abundantly before each application of fertilizing - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, then the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: about 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nourishment" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the emergence of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush has finally faded.

↑ back to contents ↑ Protection for the winter

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, but purchased specimens need mandatory protection in the winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a "hat" of snow on top. It was said above about growing and protecting (even adult) peonies in cold regions.

↑ to contents ↑ Pruning a tree peony

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to produce radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost at the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

Or, each branch is pruned to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. As they have in China, they know better, but in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree-like peony does not really like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some of the branches are very cold, do not rush to cut them, it is quite possible that the buds will still "move away", wake up and bloom - this also happens.

↑ back to contents ↑ Diseases of the tree peony

This flower is considered to be quite resistant and strong in terms of disease resistance. However, it can also be visited by parasites and diseases. The main problem is illiterate care, and old shrubs or shrubs weakened by transplantation are the first to fall into the risk zone.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This fungal disease is activated with waterlogged soil and lack of sun (for example, when the summer is rainy). A grayish bloom appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere further from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp wilting of young and strong shoots. It is treated with irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. Irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
2. Brown spot - the same actions. As a prophylaxis against it, irrigation with a low borous solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) is used. The affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (the ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners claim that this is a synonym for brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage curls sharply and dries up at the same time. Radical treatment - removal of all affected parts of the bush and their destruction.In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the flow of fresh air (removal of weeds and thinning of other nearby growing plants). In early spring, even before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a nitrafen solution diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring-shaped mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that manifests itself in the appearance of stripes and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the ring-shaped mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but spoils the appearance of the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through contaminated planting material or soil, but also through gardening tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry fungus or viruses to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree-like peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires completely unpretentious and does not have any special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. A long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with their beauty for many years and even decades.

The peony family includes many interesting plants. The tree peony has long been appreciated by experts. This semi-shrub plant grows in a wide variety of forms, which number more than 480 varieties and hybrids. It first appeared in China, where many varieties of this plant were bred at one time. But gradually Japanese flower growers joined this business.

At the end of the 18th century, the tree peony became so popular in Europe that it was actively started cultivate for saleas well as for home use. Today, growing a tree peony has become even easier. To do this, you just need to purchase a seedling. However, it is not always the right decision to buy it in garden centers, since they are not offered there so often, and if they come across, they are very expensive.

Description of the tree peony

A photo of this shrub does not give an idea of ​​its features, so they need to be given special attention.

Under natural conditions, peonies grow in the form of a deciduous shrub 1.5-2 meters high, in which light brown erect thick shoots are formed. Over time, the shoots gain mass, due to which it becomes hemispherical... In an adult state, the peony has openwork feathery leaves. The flowers of the plant, decorating the ends of the shoots, are large enough, reaching a diameter of 13-22 cm. Each variety is unique, which manifests itself in a variety of colors and shapes.

Therefore, today you can find plants of a very different shade - yellow, raspberry, white or pink. They can also differ in their structure: flowers can be double, semi-double and simple. There are also species with two-color flowers. The older the tree peony becomes, the more flowers are formed on its shoots. It enters the flowering stage 2 weeks earlier, unlike herbaceous peony, and is also frost-resistant.

Growing a tree peony

This plant does not create much hassle in its care, so you can grow it at home without even having special skills. The main thing is exactly observe the rules of cultivation agrotechnology:

• the best time to plant a tree peony is late summer or early autumn. First you need to decide on a site for planting.It is best to choose places located on a hill, well-lit by the sun, away from trees and other objects that can create a shadow harmful to the shrub;
• tree peony grows and blooms best on loamy soils. It can also be grown on sandy soil, but in this case it will be necessary to improve the quality of the soil, for which clay, sod, peat and humus soil are added to it. You can also improve the quality of clay soil if you add organic matter and sand to it;
• Choosing the right planting site as well as the quality of the soil is key to success in growing a tree peony. If you follow all the necessary recommendations, this will ensure good growth, development and longevity of the plant. In this regard, an important fact can be mentioned: it is possible to grow a tree-like peony in one place without transplanting for 100 years;
• some preparation will have to be done if the tree peony is planted in an area with a low groundwater table. To do this, it is necessary to increase the depth and diameter of the pit to 70 cm. A drainage layer is required, for the creation of which the bottom of the pit is filled with crushed brick, gravel or coarse sand with a layer of 30 cm;
• the tree-like peony feels worst of all on acidic soil. They solve this problem by adding lime to the soil, which allows it to restore to the optimal level of acidity. Add 300 gr. To the pit. substances, and a layer of soil is poured on top, and a plant is already planted on it. During planting, it is necessary to give the roots of the tree peony a natural shape and be sure to water. When the moisture is absorbed, a layer of soil is poured on top to align the root collar with the surface. For group plantings, plants must be placed at least 2 meters from each other.

Watering

In relation to this plant, the same measures are carried out as in the case of the herbaceous peony. The cultivation technique provides for regular watering, loosening the soil and controlling weeds. It is enough to water the tree peony at least twice a month. One plant must consume at least 7-8 liters of water.

In summer, the frequency of watering is increased. In early August, the need for moisture in the tree-like peony decreases, so watering is carried out not so often and gradually begins to reduce them. You need to loosen the soil every one to two days after watering, when the top layer dries up. During loosening, the depth of penetration should be no more than 5 cm.After each loosening, the soil is covered with a layer of humus.

Top dressing

Proper care of a tree peony involves regular fertilization... The highest requirement of this plant for potassium and nitrogen. It is necessary to carry out fertilizing with nitrogen-containing preparations in early spring, when the tree peony begins to grow. Subsequently, fertilizers are changed to phosphorus-potassium, which the plant needs from the moment the buds are set and until the end of the growing season.

During the flowering period, it is necessary to apply fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium, as well as preparations containing nitrogen. However, you must be very careful with the last element, because if it is excessively concentrated in the soil, it willrinesset is not good, but harm plant. This is dangerous because it can cause gray rot. In order to avoid such unpleasant phenomena, it is necessary to adhere to the rule: it is better to underfeed than overfeed. It is also important to protect the root system from burns. For this, top dressing should be carried out only after thorough watering of the soil.

Pruning

Pruning is also included in the list of mandatory activities that provide for the care of a tree peony. It must be carried out in the first weeks of spring before the beginning of the growing season. During this procedure, all dried and damaged branches are to be removed. Old shoots must be cut by 10 cm.

In China, local florists practice anti-aging pruning once every 10 years. Its essence boils down to cutting off the shoots almost to the base. As a result of this operation, the process of the formation of new kidneys is started. To prepare the tree-like peony for abundant flowering for the next season, it is necessary to cut the shoots to the upper bud. It is not recommended to neglect pruning, since the full development and life cycle of the plant depends on this operation.

Transfer

When caring for tree peonies, do not forget that they need regular transplantation. However, during this operation, you need to be very careful, since it is very injures plants... For many peonies, transplanting is so stressful that upon completion they get sick and cannot recover for two to three years.

• during transplantation, you need to try to do everything as carefully as possible so as not to injure the root system. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the bush together with a lump of earth, and the excess soil is removed under running water;
• before transplanting, it is imperative to inspect the root system - if rotten and damaged roots are found, they must be removed;
• the places of the cuts must be covered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dried and applied with a small amount of coal powder.

Reproduction

To breed a tree peony, you can use one of the following methods:

• division of the rhizome;
• propagation by cuttings;
• reproduction by layering.

There are also such growers who practice the grafting method.

Rhizome division

When a tree peony is propagated in this way, it is necessary, after digging up the bush, to divide it into parts, each of which must have several buds. The resulting cuttings must be placed in a clay solution for half an hour, and only after that they can be transplanted into the soil. This method provides the best chances of survival, provided that copies at the age of 5 years... It is recommended to plant them at the end of August. Subsequently, the same care measures are taken as for adult plants.

Propagation by cuttings

It is recommended to breed tree peonies in this way in the middle of summer. For this, a healthy bush is selected, from which semi-lignified shoots are cut off, having one bud and leaf. Before the cutting is sent to the ground, the leaf it has must be cut in half. As a planting soil mixture, a composition prepared from peat and sand is used. Cuttings are immersed in it by 2 cm.

Rooting can be accelerated if the cuttings are in a container under a film or transparent glass, which provides a greenhouse effect inside... At this stage of propagation by cuttings, it is necessary to carry out regular airing and watering. In such conditions, they are grown for 2.5 months, and then transplanted into individual containers, in which they are kept in greenhouse conditions until spring. At the first signs of tree peony growth, you can look for a place for transplanting into open ground.

Reproduction by layering

Immediately you need to prepare for the fact that growing tree peony seedlings in this way will take a lot of time and effort. Typically, this event takes at least two years.

Layers are harvested in the spring, using healthy and strong branches as planting material. On each, an incision should be made towards the ground. Any existing growth preparation must be applied to the incision sites. It is very important to carefully commit branch, for this you need to insert a peg into the incision. Further, the layering is added in drops, filling the place with earth with a layer of 10 cm. In the future, care for the layering is reduced to regular watering. When the branches take root, in early autumn a suitable day is chosen and the seedling is separated from the mother bush, after which a permanent place is looked for for it.

Experienced gardeners often practice the heel-breeding method of peonies.But when using it, the number of established seedlings is extremely small. He received the greatest distribution in those cases when it is required to reproduce many flowers. However, this method has proven its worth in home floriculture.

The essence of the method is to graft the plant on the root system of the herbaceous peony. This is done using cuttings of a tree peony, in which multiple kidneys must be present... First, you need to prepare the shoots in a special way: their lower part must be sharpened, inserted into the incision, which was previously made on the root of the herbaceous peony. Further, the area where the cuttings are connected to each other must be wrapped in polyethylene.

After finishing grafting, the plants must be placed in a container filled with sawdust and placed in partial shade. It usually takes 1 month for rooting. At this moment, shoots are transplanted into one container, while the lower bud should be destroyed into the ground by 5-6 cm. For planting, it is imperative to ensure the greenhouse effect. When using the grafting method for reproduction of the tree peony, you have to wait about 1.5-2 years for it to start growing.

Conclusion

The tree peony is one of the most common ornamental plants. It is no coincidence that this plant is grown in gardens, because it has a pleasant appearance. However, maintaining the beauty of this plant is not so easy, since it pretty moody flowerrequiring the fulfillment of certain requirements. Therefore, you first need to get acquainted with them in order to have an idea of ​​the difficulties the florist will have to face.

Tree peony varieties

The tree-like peony (lat.Paeonia x suffruticosa) is a hybrid plant of the Peony family. It is the work of Chinese breeders, later spread in the gardening of Japan, and came to Europe in the late 18th century.

The tree-like peony is a semi-shrub 1.5-2 m high. Its stems are thick, erect, light brown in color, they grow annually, over time the shape of the bush becomes hemispherical. The leaf plates are double-pinnate, openwork. Inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots. The flowers are large, 12-20 cm in diameter, can be simple, semi-double, double. The colors are white, yellow, pink, crimson, purple, and can be two-tone. The older the plant, the more flowers it gives.

This beautiful plant is enthusiastically cultivated by many gardeners. You should know the nuances of growing in order to enjoy the splendor of flowering.

Timing of planting a tree peony in the ground

What tree peonies look like photo

Depending on the temperature conditions in your region, planting dates may shift.

Impatient gardeners rush to plant peonies in the spring (with warm weather around May). Indeed, seedlings with a closed root system can be planted throughout the growing season.

For seedlings with an open root system, autumn planting is preferable (from the second half of August to the end of September). When planting in spring, green shoots develop quickly, taking away strength from the root system - as a result, seedlings with an open root system take longer to take root and do not bloom longer.

To plant or not to plant tree peonies in spring?

Planted in the spring, tree-like peonies with an open root system will not die, but will lag far behind in development compared to seedlings planted in the fall. Here everyone decides for himself. But by and large, you can plant in the spring, even if the root system is open.

How to save a tree peony before planting in the fall

You should not refuse to buy seedlings with an open root system in spring or even in winter. To preserve them until autumn planting, intermediate storage in a container is used. Take containers with a volume of 5 liters, make holes for the water to drain. The soil requires a neutral reaction, place a drainage layer on the bottom.Plant seedlings and store in a cool room (balcony, loggia, cellar). Water occasionally, not letting the earthy coma dry out.

• The purpose of the intermediate planting is to be able to build up suction roots, but the seedling should not bloom. If this happens, when the height of the shoots reaches 15-20 cm, the container should be moved to a lighter, but still cool place.

When leaves appear, treat with a preparation that improves the process of photosynthesis so that the plant "breathes" (Epin, Zircon, Ferovit). In the spring, you can take it out into the garden, placing it in a secluded corner under the diffused shade of trees or dig in in partial shade (cover the soil with peat). Transplant the bushes to a permanent growth site in the fall.

Choosing a place in the garden for planting a tree peony

Choose a sunny place for planting, but shading is desirable at midday (let the sun look at the site in the morning and evening). You will need protection from drafts and strong gusts of wind. Do not plant near shrubs or trees.

Damp, flooded areas are contraindicated. If the water table is near, provide good drainage or plant in a high bed.

The soil requires loose, water and air permeable, preferably alkaline reaction. If the soil is clayey, dilute with coarse sand and ash. In any case, a couple of weeks before planting, add a small amount of humus and dolomite flour before digging.

How to plant a tree peony outdoors

Planting a tree peony in the ground in spring and autumn

Dig planting holes (40x40x30 in volume), fill the soil with a slide. Place the seedling, straighten the roots, add the earth, squeeze it a little with your hands, the root collar should be flush with the soil surface, water abundantly.

How to plant a tree peony photo

This is how seedlings with an open root system are planted. Container plants are transferred from the container together with an earthen clod. Pour the missing amount of soil into the planting hole, water it.

How to plant a tree peony in spring photo

When the soil settles a little after planting, mulch the trunk circle, the root collar can be slightly covered. Mulch will help retain moisture during dry periods, and will provide additional shelter in winter.

Planting a tree peony in spring photo

Heat favorably affects the growth of peonies - for this, gardeners use an interesting method. Take dark glass bottles, dig in obliquely with the bottom up, moving along the near-stem circle (retreat 10-15 cm from the plant).

How to care for a tree peony

Caring for a tree peony will not be difficult: you will need to occasionally water, periodically feed, loosen the soil, get rid of weeds, and prune.

Watering and loosening the soil

In the spring and before flowering, water abundantly, but do not overmoisten, and water well during prolonged drought. It is advisable to water with warm, settled water (you can collect rainwater in a barrel in the garden or pour tap water there for heating). After the end of flowering, watering is reduced, and by August they stop completely - the wood must mature before the onset of cold weather.

Periodically loosen the soil, deepening 3-5 cm.

Top dressing and disease prevention

If it is rainy or cloudy for a long time, in order to prevent the appearance of rot, treat it with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid.

• If the tree peony grows in fertile soil, feeding can be started from the 3rd year of growth. It is not advisable to introduce organic matter, also control the introduction of the proportion of nitrogen (from its excess, the plant's resistance to diseases decreases).
• Apply the first top dressing in early spring when the snow melts (scatter 2 teaspoons of potassium and nitrogen in the trunk circle).
• The second dressing is applied during the budding period (half a glass of phosphorus, 1 tsp potassium, 2 tsp nitrogen).
• At the end of flowering, feed for the last time in a season (20 g of phosphorus, 12 g of potassium).

Annually, the trunk circle is mulched with humus or compost (about 1 bucket for each bush).

Pruning

The bush does not need formative pruning.

In early spring, you can shorten weak shoots, leaving a length of 10-20 cm. Please note that the shoots of the last year give flowering. If you notice frozen kidneys, do not rush to remove them. Wait until the end of May - they can recover. If not, trim to the first living bud. Grafted plants may develop root growth over time from the rootstock - remove it.

Rejuvenating pruning is carried out every 10-15 years. All shoots must be cut under the stump.

When the tree peony blooms

Peony tree growing and care

The tree peony begins to bloom in June, and only a few varieties bloom in May. The flowering period lasts about 15 days.

A grafted tree-like peony blooms in the 2nd year after planting, self-rooted ones - after 3-5 years. Every year, the number of inflorescences increases, in all its glory the flowering season opens in the 3-4th year. This is especially true for varieties with double and "fantasy" inflorescences.

First bloom

The first bud must be cut as soon as it is colored. This contributes to the accumulation of the plant's strength for the formation of new flowers. If two buds appear at once, remove the top one. Wait for the moment of staining, gently pinch off or pierce with a needle (thin wire), leave it on the stem until it dries - the bud will return the accumulated trace elements to the bush. If it is removed too early (before staining) there is a risk of damage to the growth point, then the shoot may remain small (it will stop developing). The second bud is removed when it opens.

How to cover tree peonies for the winter

Adult tree peonies are quite cold-resistant - they are not afraid of average frosts down to -20 ° С. However, in the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, for a safe wintering, it will be necessary to build a good shelter for a tree-like peony. The future wintering is also adversely affected by a warm, damp autumn. Under such conditions, the bush continues to grow and before the onset of cold weather may not have time to "fall asleep". In this regard, in the north-western regions and conditions of the middle zone, the plant should be prepared for wintering:

• Stop watering in advance (starting in August);
• If the end of summer and autumn turned out to be rainy, it is better to organize a canopy to protect the bushes from excessive dampness;
• Loosen the soil deeply (be careful not to damage the root system), mulch the tree trunk circle with humus or peat (1 bucket of mulch for each bush);
• Prune the leaves: at the beginning of October, shorten them by 2/3. This measure contributes to the successful ripening of the shoots of the current year (it is on them that the buds will be laid in the next season) and will increase the frost resistance of the plant.
• Build a "tripod" from sticks: bury the ends in the ground, fasten the tops with wire, cover the bushes with any covering material (canvas, spunbond). It is important to provide the plant with access to fresh air, therefore, spunbond is not tied in the root space, even if you cover it without a tripod. You can use spruce branches for shelter.

Mulch young plants with humus, fallen leaves or straw, pouring a whole mound around the trunk. Needles should not be used as mulch - acidification of the soil is possible. Also use additional covering material.

In early spring, as soon as the snow begins to melt, remove the mulch and shelter along with the snow cover to avoid decay.

How the tree peony overwintered under spunbond, we look at the video:

When to open tree peonies

It is necessary to open tree-like peonies with the first warmth, when the snow melts and the earth dries out a little, so that there is an opportunity to go out into the garden. Fear not, a little frost won't hurt.

When and how to replant tree peonies

How to transplant a tree peony

Tree peonies do not like to be disturbed by a transplant. Without this procedure, they can do well for 10-15 years. For everything to go well, it is advisable to do this at the end of the season (from 20 August to the end of September, 30-40 days before the onset of frost in your region). Transplanting in early spring before bud break is acceptable.

More specific guidelines:

• For the Urals, Siberia: August 20-September 15-20;
• Central Russia, Moscow region, North-West: August 25-September 25;
• South of Russia, Ukraine - throughout September.

The deadline is the end of September, until the suction roots have formed.

The root system of the plant penetrates 80-90 cm deep, while the roots are very delicate. Tie the branches of the bush so they don't get in the way. At a distance of about half a meter to the depth of a shovel bayonet, dig in a bush, it is better to do this with a pitchfork. Rock the plant and remove it along with the earthy clod. Rinse the roots gently under a gentle stream of warm water.

Cut off old, sick, rotten roots, treat the cuts with a solution of potassium permanganate (10 g of powder per 1 liter of water). Moisten the roots in a solution with a growth stimulant, plant (similarly as for seedlings). Build a shelter for the winter. In the next year, most of the shoots may be withered, the leaves are small and depressed. The main thing is that the upper buds of the shoots are alive. Water well, feed regularly - the tree peony will adapt and will grow.

Growing a tree peony from seeds

Seeds of a tree peony ready for planting photo

Growing a tree peony from seeds is a rather laborious and time-consuming process, but you can get a large number of young seedlings. Remember: you need to sow a peony only in the ground, at home, seedlings are not viable and soon die.

Sowing before winter

The seeds are harvested as soon as the seed pods begin to open. Dry them for 3-4 days. Then sow into the ground to a depth of 5-6 cm at a distance of 25-30 cm. Sow before the frost begins, cover the garden with spandbond or spruce branches for the winter, and remove the shelter in the spring.

Spring sowing

Collect the seeds without waiting for the seed pods to open. Remove from seed pod, place in moist peat and store at 5-8 ° C. You can do the same with purchased seeds, storing them in peat in the vegetable section of the refrigerator until sowing.

Scarification of tree peony seeds photo

Dry purchased seeds must be scarified before stratification, that is, break the shell with a file. If this is not done, they can germinate for two years. Sow the prepared seeds into open ground in May, deepening by 4-5 cm and leaving a distance of 25-30 cm between them. After a while, shoots will appear.

How to care for seedlings

Water as the soil dries up, a couple of times per season, feed with a urea solution (for 10 liters of water 40-50 g of fertilizers, consumption per 1 m²). Cover the soil surface with peat, destroy weeds.

Seedlings of tree peony from seeds photo

Over the summer, one leaf will grow about 4-6 cm high. For the winter, cover the seedlings with dry leaves, spruce branches or lutrasil. After wintering, do not touch the seedlings, let them grow in the same place. Only when the peonies get stronger, and this may even be the next season, can they be transplanted to a permanent place in late summer - early autumn. Do not rush to transplant, the later you do it, the better: poorly developed seedlings may not survive the transplant. Wait until they reach a height of 30-40 cm and have 2-3 developed shoots. Peonies from seeds will bloom not earlier than in 4-5 years.

Reproduction of a tree peony by vegetative methods

There are 4 methods of vegetative propagation of the tree peony.

By dividing the bush, it is applicable for plants aged 5-6 years

Reproduction of a tree peony by dividing a bush photo

The optimal time for the procedure is late summer and early autumn. Dig up and carefully divide the bush, be sure to treat the cuts with a fungicide. Each section should contain 2-3 growth buds and roots 10-20 cm long.

Reproduction by layering

Reproduction of tree peonies by layering photo

Do this before flowering (in May). Bend the developed shoot in the ground, make a shallow longitudinal incision about 10 cm long on the bark, treat it with a growth stimulator. Pin to the ground with a staple, sprinkle with a layer of soil 8-10 cm thick, leaving the top on the surface. Maintain soil moisture, roots will appear by the end of the warm season, but the sprout should be separated from the mother plant at the end of the next summer.

Grafting on the root of a herbaceous peony

Scion cuttings of a tree peony photo

In the middle lane, this is done in August.

The stock is a part of the root of a herbaceous plant 10-15 cm long. Graft is cuttings cut into semi-lignified shoots of the current year. It is good if the thickness of the rootstock and the scion are the same. The grafting is done with a scion or a spinning (with a significantly greater thickness of the scion, only this method is used).

Roots for the rootstock should be dug out 2-3 weeks in advance and stored in a cool place.

Each stalk should have 1-2 buds (cut 2-3 cm above the top, 3-4 cm below the bottom, remove the leaves). Use isopropyl alcohol to sterilize the instrument. You will need a very sharp knife and sharp garden shears.

Grafting

Grafting a tree peony on a herbaceous root how to make

Make a cross-section at the root, and if the diameter of the root is larger than the cutting, you will need a wedge-shaped cut. Cut the stalk on both sides with a wedge (it is advisable to do this under water - this will not clog the porous fabric). Then insert into the incision.

Inoculation of a tree peony on the root of a herbaceous photo

Wrap the top with special tape for grafting (when using ordinary electrical tape, turn the adhesive side out), it is necessary to grab a cross section of the root. Top should be coated with garden varnish.

Vaccination in the butt

How to plant a tree peony on the root of a herbaceous peony

On the root and cutting, make cuts (they should be smooth) at a slight angle, align and fasten in the same way.

Inoculation of a tree peony in the application photo

What to do with grafted seedlings

What to do with grafted tree peony seedlings photo

You can plant grafted plants in a greenhouse for 3-4 weeks; when planting, the scion should be above the soil level. Water regularly.

Another (more preferable) method: the grafted material is placed in boxes, shifted with moss or sawdust, covered with plastic bags and kept in the basement for the same time.

A grafted tree peony ready for planting in a permanent place photo

Successfully grafted plants are transplanted into open ground, placing them at an angle. For the winter, cover with a layer of straw, which must be removed in the spring. The cuttings are grown until autumn, in the fall they are transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

A grafted tree peony seedling in the second year of life photo

Propagation by green cuttings

A fairly effective method (about 60-70% rooted). A significant amount of planting material can be obtained at the same time. Cuttings should be prepared before the lignification process begins (throughout June); it is better to cut them in the morning. Leave 2 buds of growth, make an oblique cut under the bottom (at a distance of 1.5-2.5 cm), above the top - even (distance 2.5-3 cm). Shorten the leaves by 1/2 or 1/3. Treat with growth stimulant.

Plant in a sand-peat mixture at an angle, deepening by 4-5 cm, cover on top with a jar or a cut plastic bottle. Maintain soil moisture, spray the leaves. The first roots will appear in 1.5-2 months. Remove the shelter gradually.For the winter, dig the cuttings in the hole and cover. In the spring, transplant to a test bed for growing - by autumn, an shoot should develop from the lower bud. Then you can transplant to a permanent place of growth, if you wish, postpone the procedure until next season.

Diseases and pests

Tree peonies are resistant to diseases and pests. Old bushes or bushes weakened by transplanting can fall into the risk zone.

Gray rot is the most dangerous disease. Trim and burn the affected areas. Treat the bush with a manganese solution (for 10 liters of water, 3 g of powder) or a 6-7% solution of copper sulfate.

Possible defeat with brown spot. The affected leaves are removed and disposed of. Treatment with Bordeaux liquid will be required.

Difficulties and mistakes in care

Consider problem situations and recommendations of experienced gardeners.

• The tree peony does not bloom (it grows for 7 years, its height is 50 cm).

There may be several reasons. Incorrect planting: if the soil is too heavy, the roots go deep (the access of oxygen and nutrients to them is inadequate). Transplant. Freezing of flower buds: cover the bushes thoroughly for the winter. Acidic soil: Treelike peonies grow better on alkaline soils. When planting for digging, dolomite flour, garden lime are introduced.

• It grows in a sunny area, but the growth of the tree-like peony is small (in 2 years it has reached only 15 cm).

Most likely, you deeply buried the plant when planting.

• The tree-like peony grows for 3 years, blooms successfully, but the height is no more than half a meter.

The annual increase is small. Especially from grafted seedlings - the plant is just moving to its own roots.

• The bush grew in a shady place, and after transplanting to a sunny area and lush flowering, its leaves were covered with brown spots.

This is botris (gray rot). The methods of struggle were mentioned earlier.

• The bushes are 5 years old, in February the buds were small, black. If tree peonies have not been sheltered for the winter, will they die?

Young plants must be covered for the winter. If the bushes bloomed in the previous season, you don't have to worry - they will go away until May. Then inspect the bush and cut to the first living bud. In case of severe freezing, carry out a full root pruning (this applies to adult plants).

Tree peonies in landscape design

Tree peony care and cultivation in the Moscow region photo in the garden

Among perennials, there are few crops that can compete with tree peonies in beauty, unpretentiousness and longevity (with proper agricultural technology, they can grow in one place for more than 50 years). They are suitable for landscaping personal plots as well as parks and squares.

Gorgeous inflorescences delight with a variety of colors and shapes, fill the space with the most delicate aroma. Non-double varieties bloom first (on the 20th of May), then terry varieties take over, after a couple of weeks the yellow peony buds bloom. If you grow herbaceous peonies in parallel on the site, your garden will be decorated with beautiful flowering from mid-May to the end of the first summer month.

Tree peony on a flower bed photo

Tree peonies can be planted alone or in groups. They look very impressive next to architectural structures. Among plants, suitable partners (or rather a background) are conifers (especially with a silvery shade of needles), chestnuts, lilacs.

Plant daffodils, crocuses, woodlands, tulips between the bushes: when these crops bloom, the leaves of the peonies will cover the empty spaces. They look beautiful next to tree-like peonies holly, mahonia, weigela, and other ornamental shrubs.

Tree peony in the garden design pictured, cultivar Paeonia x suffruticosa ‘Shimadaijin’

In vast areas (for example, in parks), tree peony bushes are planted as a colorful spot, it is not advisable to plant a continuous strip on the lawn - the majesty of the picture is lost. Consider a combination of size and color. It is better to create a ceremonial composition from one variety of peonies.For a mixed planting, combine terry and non-terry shapes.

Types and varieties of tree peonies with photos and names

Types of treelike peonies Paeonia suffruticosa:

Peony yellow Paeonia lutea

Peony yellow Paeonia lutea photo of flowers in the garden

The color is bright yellow, most species of yellow peony have rare small flowers and long dissected leaves. Some hybrid varieties have acquired a more sophisticated look with large double flowers.

Peony Delaway Paeonia delavayi

Peony Delaway Paeonia delavayi photo

Various shades of chestnut, deep burgundy color. There are tall shrubs and more squat ones.

Peony tree Delaway photo

Peony Potanin Paeonia potaninii

Peony Potanin Paeonia potaninii photo

The color palette is red-brown, characterized by large, loose flowers with flat centers. It grows no more than 1-1.2 m. The leaves are narrow, strongly dissected. In frosts below -20 ° C, it requires shelter for the winter.

Peony Lemoine Paeonia lemoinei

Peony Lemoine cultivar Hesperus photo

Yellow, orange, pink, crimson tones. Sprawling densely leafy bush with large double flowers.

All varieties of tree peonies are divided into 3 groups:

1. Sino-European - have large double inflorescences, they droop under the weight of the bud. Colors from pale pink to fuchsia.
2. Japanese varieties - flowers are not so large, but light, as if floating under a bush.
3. The hybrid forms of yellow peony and Delaway peony are different shades of yellow.

Popular varieties of tree peony with photos and names

Peony tree red giant photo

Red giant - large red semi-double flowers with yellow centers. Abundant flowering. It requires shelter for the winter, it is allowed to prune branches by a third of the length, but only in spring, after wintering, when it is clear how frozen the tips of the shoots are.

Tree Peony Kiao Sisters photo

Sisters Kiao - corollas up to 16 cm in diameter, double color: one half is dark red, the other has a white-cream shade.

Tree peony Blue Sapphire Blue Sapphire photo

Sapphire - on one bush at the same time there can be up to fifty huge flowers (about 18 cm in diameter). The petals are pale pink, the core is crimson.

Coral tree peony cultivar Shan Hu Tai In the photo, the bush is 6 years old

The coral altar is a colorful combination of snow-white and salmon shades, the diameter of the rim is 20 cm.

Tree peony Green Jade Paeonia suffruticosa Green Jade

Green Jade - the buds have a lime shade.

Peony tree variety Lavender photo

The Lavender variety has a delicate purple hue with dark purple spots at the center. Anthers are yellow. The flowers are very large, the flowering is abundant.

Varieties of tree peonies in yellow tones

Peony tree yellow cultivar Paeonia suffruticosa High Noon photo

High Noon with bright yellow flowers and dark purple spots in the center of the petals.

Peony tree variety Akademik Sadovnichy

Academician Sadovnichy - the height of the bush varies from 70 cm to 1 m, the inflorescences are located at the level of the upper leaves. The bud is cupped, semi-double. The petals are bright yellow, a dark purple spot at the base, the filaments have a red-purple hue, the stigma is creamy.

Kuindzhi - non-double flowers with wide petals of bright yellow color, the base is decorated with a red spot.

Peony tree variety Souvenir de Maxime Cornu photo

Souvenir de Maxime Cornu (Souvenir de Maxime Cornu) is a meter high bush. The flower is densely doubled, drooping, retains freshness for a long time after cutting. The petals are bright yellow with a pinkish-cream border.

Winter-hardy varieties of tree peonies for the Moscow region and the middle lane

Varieties of tree-like peonies in red and pink colors

Tree peony Vesuvius Paeonia suffruticosa ‘Vesuvian’ photo

Vesuvian (Vesuvius) - a bush about 75 cm high decorated with large double flowers. The petals are crimson red, the short filaments are light red, the anthers are pale yellow, the pistil is pale green with a purple stigma.

Tree peony Vladimir Novikov photo

Vladimir Novikov is a spreading bush 1.3-1.5 m high. Corollas with a dark purple spot at the base, burgundy-fuchsin petals with corrugated edges. Crimson filaments with bright yellow anthers.

Tree peony Gauguin Paeonia suffruticosa 'Gauguin' photo

Gauguin (Gauguin) - bush up to 1.2 m high.The petals are crimson red with darker veins and a fuchsia border.

Tree peony Coral Sunset Paeonia suffruticosa Coral Sunset photo

Coral is a meter high bush. The flowers are simple. Petals of a red-purple hue, a dark red spot at the base.

Peter the Great is a multi-stemmed, spreading bush with a height of 1.3-1.5 cm. The flowers are large (20-25 cm in diameter), semi-double. The petals are lilac-red with purple veins. Filaments have a delicate lilac hue.

Peony tree Stefan photo

Stephen is a spreading bush 0.9-1 m high. It has flowers up to 20 cm in diameter. Crimson petals with veins of a lilac hue, a dark purple spot at the base.

Vadim Tikhomirov - the height of the compact bush is 1.5 m. The petals are pink, the edges are corrugated, the center is decorated with a spot of a dark crimson hue.

Tree peony Hoffman Paeonia suffruticosa Hofman photo

Hoffmann - the bush is 1.5 m high. Pink-purple pastel petals have dark purple spots in the center, white filaments, yellow anthers. Flowers are very large, semi-double, numerous.

Tree peony Irina photo

Irina - the bush reaches a height of 1.7 m. Semi-double flowers up to 17 cm in diameter with petals of a dark salmon shade, the base is dark magenta. Filaments of a bright crimson hue.

Tree peony Muse photo

Muse - the height of a bush with bright green leaves is 1.3 m. Petals of a crimson-pink shade form 4 circles.

Tree peony variety Smolin

Smolin is a spreading bush, some shoots can lie down, grow up to 1.3 m.The base of the petals is bright purple, turns into a pale pink hue. Semi-double, multi-row flower reaches a diameter of 25 cm. Leaves are green with a brownish tint.

Marianna is a compact bush with a height of 1.2-1.4 m. The petals with corrugated edges are arranged in 3 rows. The center is dark crimson, the shade of the petals is pale pink.

Varieties of white tree peonies:

Tree peony Lomonosov photo

August - the bush reaches a height of 1.2-1.3 m. The flowers are goblet-shaped, the petals are snow-white, the center is decorated with a barely noticeable spot of a pinkish hue.

Tree peony Paeonia suffruticosa cultivar Anastasia Sosnovets photo

Anastasia Sosnovets - the height of the compact bush is 1.5 m. The flowers are simple, each petal is two-rowed with slightly corrugated edges, the base is decorated with a spot of crimson hue.

Spring Waltz - grows up to 1.2 m in height. The petals are snow-white, the base is decorated with a blueberry spot, the staminodial disc is of a red-purple hue.

Vorobievsky is a one and a half meter bush. Simple goblet-shaped flowers with snow-white petals and lilac staminate filaments.

Tree peony white nights

Milky-white petals have maroon spots in the center, the middle with large yellow anthers. Leaves and branches are dark green with a purple tint.

Maria - is a spreading bush 1.2-1.3 m high. Semi-double flowers (petals are arranged in 2 rows) consist of snow-white petals with corrugated edges.

Tatyana - the height of the bush varies from 1 m to 1.2 cm. The flowers are semi-double (2-3 rows), at the base there is a crimson spot.