Miniature roses outdoor planting and care for beginners

Miniature roses can decorate any home plot, regardless of whether they are planted in open ground or in decorative containers. Which option is right for you?

Miniature roses in a container

Mobility... The advantage of growing miniature roses in a container is that you don't need to look for a special place for them. It is enough to put the flowerpot where there are not enough bright colors - and the garden will sparkle in a new way. In addition, containers with miniature roses can be moved from place to place if necessary.

Container... It is better to buy rose seedlings in a specialized store (you should not save on them). In order for a rose to develop normally in a container, the container must be chosen wisely. Particular attention should be paid to the size: the roots of the rose should not be crowded in the pot. The depth of the container should be at least 25 cm. You should not buy a pot without drainage holes.

Rose in a container

Landing... Particular attention should be paid to the soil for miniature roses. The seedlings should be placed in light mineral soil, fertilized with compost. It is best to plant roses in a container in mid-April. When planting young plants, the soil should be well watered - this way the roses will take root faster.

Care... Caring for miniature roses in a container is easy. Temperature for the normal development of the flower should be about 18-22 ° C. Until the rose takes root, it should be to water in one day. When the plants take root, watering can be reduced to 1 time per week. When choosing a place to place a container with roses, keep in mind that it is advisable to put it in penumbra... Twice a month for the best flowering of the plant you need feed mineral and organic fertilizers. With the onset of frost, roses are necessary prune and put to rest in the basement or other cool room.

Miniature roses in the open field

Seedling selection. As in the case of planting miniature roses in containers, planting material for open ground should be of high quality. The seedling should not have a dry root, and the branches should be free of any spots.The trunk of a healthy plant is dark green and resilient.

Landing... Before planting a rose in open ground, it must be placed in water for 6 hours - then it will take root faster. If the seedling is tall, it must be cut off - the height should not exceed 10 cm. You can plant a miniature rose both in sunny areas and in partial shade. The depth of the planting hole should be equal to the length of the roots. A little humus should be put into the pit and filled with water. When the water is absorbed into the ground, you can plant a plant in it. The rose should be watered a few days after planting.

Rose in the open field

Care. To water the rose should be followed as needed: it all depends on the weather conditions. As soon as the first full-fledged leaves appear on the rose and small buds are visible, it should spray insecticide from aphids and caterpillars. The best drugs are Antizhuk and Prestige. For 0.5 liters of water, only 2 drops of the product are needed. This amount is enough to spray 10 seedlings. Twice a year (in spring and autumn) a plant feed humus or mineral and organic fertilizers. If you decide to feed the plant with manure, then it is best to take a cow. For each bush, 0.5 kg will be enough. In the fall of the rose follows insulate for the winter... To do this, it will be enough to dig it up with earth. In the spring, the dry branches on the rose need to be cut off.

No one will argue that the name of the queen of the garden was given to the rose for a reason. In the future, hardly anyone will be able to move her from this pedestal, little will change in terms of the main types of roses, which have long been defined in a conditional classification adopted among rose breeders, gardeners and florists.

The only thing that changes with the passage of time is that growing roses is no longer the prerogative of professionals - now anyone, even an absolute beginner in gardening, can start growing them. This is because new varieties of roses have been bred that grow without outside help and require very little maintenance.

Another reason why the popularity of roses has increased again is the fact that new varieties have been developed with thick double flowers, fragrant and reminiscent of the ancient varieties of the ancestors.

The last decade in breeding new roses has been particularly intensive, trying to combine both qualities. The result is the emergence of many varieties of roses that combine both aroma, and beautiful flowers and endurance, both diseases and pests that do not require daily and tedious care.

In order to make it easier for gardeners to deal with different types and varieties of roses and choose the appropriate ones, we will divide them into conditional groups or categories for a start.

Conditional because as a result of breeding work on the development of new varieties of roses, the boundaries between them are gradually erased, some species and varieties, having borrowed specific characteristics from others, become similar to each other to the point of confusion, so it is often difficult to determine which group this or that rose belongs to, even professional ..

We offer you here a classification that is often used by amateurs, gardeners and ordinary, non-professional growers to identify roses in rose gardens, flower beds and flower beds. According to her, roses are divided into types and groups depending on how they are used in the garden, on the site and, of course, on the shape of the rose bush itself.

These will be standard, shrub and flower-bed roses. Roses are divided into generally accepted categories: climbing, ground cover, miniature, park and hybrid tea roses.

The main types of garden roses

Climbing roses

Let's preliminarily divide them into 2 groups: Rambler and Climbers

Rumblera roses these are climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. The stems are flexible and small. 2-3 centimeters in diameter. The flowers of most rambler roses are collected in inflorescences, rather large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. The aroma is usually absent altogether, but there are also very faint-smelling varieties of ramblers. Requires supports or garters.

Climber roses - climbing roses, the stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than those of the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, they bloom twice, flowering is long, very abundant and lush. Winter is easy, no solid shelter is required for climber varieties.

Ground cover roses

The most common roses in flower beds and garden design elements. This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms - ground cover roses can be both creeping and upright (erect). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter in height, but they can be even higher. The spectrum of colors, or rather their forms and types, is very diverse: from double, semi-double to the simplest and sometimes even inconspicuous.

Miniature roses

These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed 30, less often 35-40 centimeters in height. Flowers similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. Among them there are varieties that grow in flowers without much care. Most of the miniature roses are repaired.

In the picture: 1. Climbers climbing roses, 2. Rambler climbing roses, 3. Miniature roses, 4. Flower-bed roses, 5. Ground cover roses

Park roses

(read more about, for example, Canadian park roses)

The flowers of park roses are the simplest, very often similar to an ordinary rose hip or non-catalog species roses. They can bear fruit in the fall, a kind of berries resembling a rosehip. The main disadvantage of park roses is a rare and single flowering. They got their name for the fact that they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they take up a very, very large amount of space, of which there are not many in our dachas.

In the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid tea roses, 8. Cascading roses, 9. Park roses, 10. Standard roses

Shrub roses

The main and characteristic feature of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height, quite easily, when grown with minimal care, it can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular varieties among flower growers are representatives of this type "Modern Shrab", "Grandiflora". Most often they are used to create hedges on homemade, hand-made trellises or braiding such an arch for roses, often of a mixed nature (using other plants). Also well suited for creating a flower garden exclusively from roses. Formed bush rose rose gardens are very beautiful.

The group of shrub roses includes many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called "nostalgic" varieties, once flowering, with double flowers.

Hybrid tea roses

This type of rose captivates the hearts of gardeners primarily with its large double flowers. Stems grow to a height of up to a meter, erect (upright). One of the best cut roses. All hybrid tea roses are remontant and almost all are fragrant. In landscape design and the formation of a flower garden, they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or ornamental cereals.

Hybrid tea roses have large, elegant flowers and upright shoots reaching a height of 1 m, so they look good in a flower garden, and are also great for cutting.

Cascading roses

Roses grafted onto a stem at a height of 140 centimeters with varieties of climbing or ground cover roses. The stems of cascading roses are long, often drooping. The shape of the flowers depends on the grafting, therefore, they are actually very diverse both in color and in diameter and shape ..

Stamp roses

Like miniature roses, standard roses are well suited for growing in pots and containers, which of course does not negate their cultivation in a flower garden or rose garden, which they will undoubtedly transform. For the formation and compactness of the crown of this type of roses, hybrid tea roses, the already mentioned miniature roses or Floribunda roses, are often grafted onto them.

Flowerbed roses

As a rule, many gardeners and florists refer to flowerbed roses as polyanthus and Floribunda roses. Suitable for growing both in portable containers and pots, and in a flower garden in the open field. Flowers are collected in lush and beautiful inflorescences. Flowerbed roses have practically no aroma (with the exception of a few weak-smelling varieties). But their main plus is lush and long flowering. In height, flower bed roses can reach 70-80 centimeters.

Also on the topic: Do-it-yourself rose garden - selection of varieties of roses for a rose garden

Rose seedlings: choosing the right one

So, we figured out about the types and groups of roses for a garden, a flower garden, a rose garden or even a simple flower bed, now let's move on to where it all starts - rose seedlings.

The key to beautiful, lushly blooming, a little sick and not requiring daily care of roses is, of course, the correct selection of seedlings.

First, pay attention to the shoots and stems. Their color should be green, the stems themselves are strong, elastic, so to speak, "oozing with life." The bark of the shoots must be intact, without folds, breaks and rot.

Buds are another sign of healthy rose seedlings - they should be large, well-developed and look healthy, exactly the same recommendations can be given by examining the roots of roses, the roots should be intact, without breaks, and the substrate in which the seedling or earthen lump is sold should be sure to be slightly wet.

The leaves of the seedling should be deep green on both the inside and outside. We think it would be superfluous to say that there should be no stains or damage on them - if there is, then this is no longer a seedling, but money thrown into the wind.

Rose seedlings in the planting season (early autumn or spring) are most often sold with open roots, in pre-planting containers (with a closed root system)

Roses are sold with an open root system, with a closed one, and also directly in containers.

Planting such rose seedlings must be done immediately after purchase, this is important.

The most experienced gardeners plant roses between early September and mid-October. If you live in a cold, northern region, then planting is better done in spring, in cold winter, fragile seedlings with an undeveloped root system will simply freeze.

In principle, roses can be planted in summer, in any of the months. Moreover, they can even be planted in bloom. True, it will come out for the money a little more expensive, but they will take root well.

As you can see in the right photo, the roots of rose seedlings are in the ground, occasionally moss is used. They can protect the root system of the seedling for several days, usually such seedlings are packed neatly and there is practically no damage to the root system.

What to look for when choosing and buying rose seedlings

• On the label. On high-quality rose seedlings, a tag is always attached with brief information about the breeder, about the type (group) of roses, and of course with information about the variety.
• Pay also attention to the so-called “ADR” sign (more on it below): such a sign is issued to varieties of roses that are super-resistant to diseases and have high decorative characteristics.
• The most expensive seedlings, the highest category, must have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from grafting. The cheaper rose seedlings already have 2 shoots, which both grow from the grafting site.

The best place to plant roses

Whichever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love soft, loose, fertile soil, with good water permeability. The best level of soil acidity is the so-called pH - 6.5.

Attention: When replacing landings do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have been growing for more than 8-10 years!

Old roses have already "selected" from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through correct and generous fertilization. But they saturated the earth with spores of diseases and pests.

Despite the well-known photophilousness of roses, it is impossible for them to be in direct sunlight, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.

Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, next to a low tree that you prune annually, etc.

So in my area to the left of the cypress growing next to the cypress, the rose bush is always, despite the constant care, stunted and faded, on the right it (cypress), as by the clock, covers itself at noon at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always more powerful and prettier, so it has been tested in practice.

Preparing for planting rose seedlings

Just before planting roses, you should first prepare the seedlings. So roots that are too long should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Pruner, and all dry ones should be removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses are recognized even by touch).

In this case, in no case touch the filamentous roots.

The stems of the seedling must also be pruned - in the spring, leave two to four buds, in the fall, when planting, the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters.

Tip: A few hours before planting (about 2), lower the seedlings in a bucket of water and leave them there for the specified time, or even better do it in the evening, and plant in the morning, that is, at night.

Planting roses - step by step

If your soil is predominantly clayey in your country house, plot or flower garden, then add river or other sand to the hole for the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add compost to the rose hole.

1. The hole for planting a rose should be 10 centimeters larger than (wider and deeper) than the earthen ball and the roots that are in it. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole.
2. The depth to which the rose seedling is planted is determined by the grafting site, which should be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the planting hole with compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash (not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes, etc. - only wood ash!).
3. Hold the rose seedling evenly at the desired depth and gradually cover the hole with earth.
4. Be sure to compact the soil well around the planting.
5. For watering the seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water spreading. Be sure to spud the seedling by 15 centimeters, at least - this must be done in spring and autumn. In spring, hilling is useful from drying out, in autumn it helps from frost. At the onset of the autumn period, the excess land can be removed.

Photo 3: Planting roses correctly for beginners

Mount and supports

Supports and fasteners are needed, first of all, for standard roses - they need to be tied to the supports with a soft cloth or the same twine, making a kind of "eight" out of it. Inspect the plant periodically and loosen the knots to prevent the twine from growing into the tissue of the rose shoot.

Pruning roses

The purpose of any pruning of roses is to replace. That is, it is produced in order to replace old stems and shoots with young ones, which will bloom luxuriantly and profusely. Pruning old, dying shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.

Weakened stems are also cut off by significantly shortening them, powerful shoots either do not touch at all or cut slightly.

Root shoots, the scourge of grafted roses, are completely removed during pruning.

The general rule of pruning is that the stronger it is, the more strength the rose will need to form new stems.

Pruning of standard (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of scion - so ground covers, as a general rule, are shortened by half their growth every 2 years.

Spring pruning of roses

(Read more about spring pruning roses here)

Spring pruning begins mainly in late March, in colder regions - early April.

But of course, these terms can shift, depending on the climate, the weather in any direction, therefore, in addition to the exact dates, use this sign: you need to start pruning roses when the buds swell at the tops of the most powerful shoots, as a rule, at the same time, the plant blooms in the flower garden forsythia.

Photo 4: Pruning roses

How to cut the stems correctly

Believe it is important.

The shoots of roses are cut over the bud, from which the shoot will subsequently appear. Such a bud should be directed outward, outward - this is done to avoid thickening the bush and giving it a beautiful shape.

In order not to damage the bud with the pruner, cut the shoot 5-7 millimeters above. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed downward from the bud, this is done so that moisture from the fog and rainwater flows down at the cut, does not stagnate on it, which can cause its penetration into the core and the shoot will rot.

Pruning roses for lush and abundant flowering.

To achieve a beautiful and lush flowering of roses, several rules must be followed.

1. In climbing roses of remontant varieties, buds grow both on young shoots and on one-year-old and more shoots, therefore, only lateral shoots are pruned, leaving 4-5 buds. In one-time flowering roses, the flowers are located on the growths of the last year, so new stems are not cut off, the bush is slightly thinned out, in extreme cases, you can remove 2 old skeletal branches.

2. Miniature Roses, Floribunda and Hybrid Tea Roses form flowers on young stems so they need to be cut quite tightly. Hybrid tea and Floribunda are pruned a little in the fall, and such pruning is more sanitary in nature: diseased and weak shoots are removed, but in the spring they are pruned more thoroughly - leaving an shoot with three or four buds. Trimming miniature roses is done in the spring, they are shortened by 12-15 centimeters.

3. In remontant shrub roses, flowers are located on young stems, so the bush is thinned out, while shortening the stems from the outside of the bush to 5 buds.

If skeletal branches need to be shortened, then do it by a third or even two-thirds of the length.

Once blooming roses are shrubs that bloom luxuriantly on the growth of last year, so their pruning must be done immediately after flowering.

Covering roses for the winter

You can also read about hiding roses for the winter here.

Sheltering roses for the winter is a very important procedure. Otherwise, you can lose all the work that you have invested in your favorites in the summer. Therefore, when autumn arrives, stock up on burlap, spruce branches or any other covering material.

Roses need to be covered in November-early December (this is the deadline).

Shelter methods also depend on the variety and species. So rose hips can not be covered at all.

For shelter, you cannot use a film - the plants under it can easily resist, by the way, the sun can damage roses in winter as well - an unjustified early sap flow into a thaw can begin, and upon the onset of new frosts they freeze, as a rule, then it is already irrevocable - it is difficult to save such roses, because the tissue of the plant suffers, black rings appear that are clearly visible in the spring on the cut. Therefore, the non-woven fabric for the shelter will be just right.

As a rule, the grafting site suffers the most from frost, in fact, that is why we are higher and recommended you to deepen it when planting a seedling at a depth of 5 centimeters.

Roses in the fall need to be additionally spud with dry soil, preferably with compost, and covered with spruce branches (if possible). Then cover shrubby, miniature roses, Floribunda and hybrid tea with non-woven material.

One-year-old standard roses winter horizontally, for which, gently bend the shoots to the ground and secure with wire pins. Be sure to cover the grafting site with earth or compost, and do the same with the crown of the bush.

Old and adult standard roses can successfully overwinter vertically, you can simply pull a bag over the bush and fill it with dry foliage from below, and tie the bottom, and the garter must be below the grafting site. Spud and insulate the shoots as in previous cases.

Shrub roses, especially those that have grown strongly over the summer, are difficult to cover. In this case, a cylindrical wire cage of a larger diameter than a rose bush without a bottom and a cover will come to your aid - it is placed on a bush and stuffed neatly with foliage, hay or straw.

Shelter of climbing roses consists in removing them from the hedge or trellis, laying them on spruce branches, and warming for example with burlap, followed by again covering with spruce branches. You can also put a film on top of such a "pie".

Pests and diseases of roses - control measures: advice for beginners

Only healthy roses with good immunity to diseases can optimally endure wintering and, of course, grow and delight us with their beauty.

Therefore, even at the stage of buying a flower, ask the seller about the sustainability of this variety, as a rule, many of them are fanatics and will explain the essence of the issue to you in detail, otherwise use the advice above on choosing rose seedlings.

To minimize the stress of roses from moving to a new "place of residence", take the choice of a place for planting as seriously as possible, take into account not only the landscape design and its reception, but try to make sure that your desires and possibilities coincide with the "desires and possibilities" roses.

If the variety is unstable to diseases, for example, you took the seedling you liked from friends who do not know either its origin or the name of the variety, do regular spraying with drugs for prophylaxis.

If prevention did not help and the rose got sick, then immediately remove the entire affected part of the plant - this will save not only it, but also other nearby bushes. By the way, in fairness, it must be said that most often diseases are spread with cuttings taken from friends and not from the market or stores, so in such cases, do not be lazy to process the seedling right away.

If removing diseased parts does not help, resort to chemical or folk remedies to spray the affected rose (we will describe them in detail a little later, in the next article).

It is necessary to inspect roses in the garden as often as possible, at least 1-2 times a week - because the sooner you notice the signs of the disease, the easier it is to defeat it, and the rose will suffer less from removing the affected stems. Be sure to burn all parts of the plant that you removed from the diseased plant - do not put them in compost, because next year you will spread the infection with it throughout the site. Before wintering and sheltering roses, remove dried leaves that have not fallen, as well as dried flowers and berries.

Before sheltering roses for the winter, be sure to collect the cut parts of the plants and remove the dried, but not fallen leaves, also cut off the withered flowers and fruits.

The use of folk remedies and homemade preparations for spraying roses.

In order to prevent fungal diseases from occurring in roses, spray them with a decoction of horsetail herb every 2 weeks.

Preparation of horsetail solution

To prepare the broth, take 150 grams of dry herb or one kilogram of raw herb, chop the herb and fill it with one liter of water, then boil and cook for half an hour over low heat. The broth for spraying is diluted 1 to 10 before use.

Solution for spraying roses from aphids

Take 30 grams of dry or 400-450 grams of green wormwood (bitter) and pour ten liters of boiling water, then leave for at least 10 minutes. Then strain and dilute 1 to 3. Spray the bush thoroughly and on both sides of the leaf - if you spray only on top and lightly, the aphids will simply crawl under the bottom of the leaves, and at the first opportunity or after rain will crawl back.

The main pests of roses

1. "Rose aphid".

Lives on the tips of the stems, the underside of the leaf, buds.It feeds on juice.

How to deal: Cutting shoots inhabited by aphids, spraying with a solution of wormwood (the recipe for the solution is given above), homemade nettle mash helps in the fight against rosacea aphids. If it is not possible to prepare folk solutions, then process it with any chemical. remedy for leaf-gnawing or sap-sucking pests.

2. "Rose cicadas"

Small insects. A favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose leaf. A characteristic feature is that small white spots appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.

Control measures: processing the rose with simple liquid laundry soap.

3. Rose pest - spider mite.

Also inhabits the underside of leaves. At the same time, the leaves are covered with yellow specks, then rapidly turn gray, white. If there is an intensive reproduction of a spider mite, then on the back of the leaf, thin cobwebs are visible with the naked eye.

How to deal: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting a rose, if this cannot be done due to some circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes the shoots if the settlement process has gone too far and then spray with a decoction of horsetail ( solution recipe above) or tobacco. Infusions of yarrow and garlic are also effective against spider mites.

4. "Rose leaf".

Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the rose leaves, which is why they begin to curl up into a tube, and in early to mid-June the larva ripens in them.

Control measures: Removal of leaves affected by the pest, spraying with any insecticide.

5. "Sawfly or rosy rotten"

The pest lays eggs directly on the pink shoot, the larvae emerging from the eggs bore holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which causes first a slowdown in growth and then the death of the stem. The signs of its presence are holes in the shoots, which appear already in May.

Ways and measures to combat the sawfly: only removing the affected shoots. As a prevention, regular spraying of the rose with a solution of bitter wormwood can play a good role (recipe above).

Rose pests - photo

Diseases of roses and measures to combat them

1. Black spot of roses (more details).

The main sign of black spot is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on the outside of the rose leaf. After the appearance of spots, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provoking effect of the appearance of black spot on roses may be increased air humidity.

Measures to combat black spot: if prolonged rainy weather is established, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Roses and powdery mildew.

Another scourge of garden roses. The provoking factor is the same as that of black spot - damp and warm weather, established for a long time. The symptom of the disease is clear from the name - a white, easily washable plaque on the leaves.

How to deal: spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew from developing on roses, plant them in a ventilated place not limited by large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.

3. Rose rose rust:

Outwardly similar to black spot, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow and on the inside of the leaves black pustules appear, which contain spores.

Control measures: spraying with copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1%). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, then every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.

4. Powdery mildew (false).

A characteristic feature is red-brown spots on the outside of the leaves, on the back of the leaf there is a gray or white bloom, indelible.

How to deal: treat the bushes with a solution of horsetail (the recipe for preparing the solution is given above), treatments with infusion of nettle, common sow thistle, ash solution or infusion of mullein are also effective. As an additional remedy, increase the potash root dressing and avoid getting water droplets on the leaves when watering.

5. Gray rot of roses:

The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. Sign of gray mold: gray mold at the ends of the stems and buds. After the disease, they dry out and fall off.

Measures to combat gray mold: increase fertilization with manganese-containing fertilizers. Prevention: treatment of roses with ordinary Bordeaux liquid (1%)

Photo of rose diseases

50 most beautiful roses from new varieties

I myself am often opposed to talking about flowers, and even more so about roses in the degree of superiority of one variety over another - something like "10 best varieties of roses" or "100 most beautiful roses", but in this case it is justified - because we are talking not only about beauty, but also about endurance and resistance to disease.

It is not a secret for anyone that most of the new varieties of roses are bred not only for their "beauty" - breeders are developing new varieties that are resistant to diseases, which, unfortunately, our darlings suffer more and more.

How to determine how hardy a particular variety of roses is?

The so-called ADR mark ("Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung") will help you with this - in Russian it is translated as "All-German certification of new varieties of roses."

This list includes only those roses that have increased cold resistance, abundance and duration of flowering, resistance to pests and diseases.

At the end of 2011, this list contained 180 varieties of roses, and in the same year it was updated by only 5 points - the Germans are demanding and scrupulous people.

How do roses get into this catalog-list and what does the ADR sign mean?

The ADR mark is assigned to varieties of roses with a high degree of hardiness and the best flowering performance.

Roses claiming this ADR mark? planted for three years in 11 different gardens throughout Germany. In order to test them for endurance in different climatic and weather conditions, taking into account the difference in soil and other factors.

Caring for roses is the most common, except for one thing - growers are prohibited from treating them from diseases and pests of roses. As a result, what is called “at the exit”, roses are obtained that do not require treatment with chemicals, moreover, their selection, as we see, occurs in the most natural way.

Gardeners water, feed and prune "experimental" in the same way as in private gardens, but it is strictly forbidden to use any means of protecting plants from diseases and pests. Among other things, checking roses like this has a positive effect on the environment, because the more gardeners grow hardy varieties, the less chemicals will be needed.

After three years, the results of planting and growing roses applying for the ADR mark, an expert commission is created from specialists in the selection of roses, they are evaluated according to a 100 point system, in order to enter the group of winners, a rose needs to score 75 points and above.

This entire process was founded by the renowned rose breeder Wilhelm Cordes.

Which rose varieties are ADR tested?

The most diverse. Roses of all new varieties (except for rose hips, the testing of which was discontinued last year, 2011) are sent for the test from all over the planet, and one of the main conditions for participation in this competition of roses is that the variety must be new and not be sold on the market for more than 5 years.

Why do roses get grades?

Points are accumulated by varieties in a complex way - here is resistance to diseases, growth rate, duration and splendor as characteristics of flowering, general appearance of a rose, aroma. But all the same, the most important criterion for assessing is resistance to disease and pest.

A rose may lose the ADR mark if, as a result of subsequent rechecking, it is established that it has lost any of its features.

The most beautiful roses from the ADR catalog: photo

50 varieties of the best and most beautiful roses

Description of varieties of roses in the photo

Name (ROSE VARIETY)	Group	Flowers	Scent	Bush
1.Aprikola	Floribunda	apricot, semi-double, 6 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
2.Aspirin-Rose	Floribunda	from white to pink, terry, 6 cm	weak	with arched drooping stems, 70 cm high
3.Bengali	Floribunda	copper-yellow, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
4.Black Forest Rose	Floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high
5. Bluhwunder 08	groundcover rose	bright pink, simple, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high
6. Comedy	Scrub	yellow with red, terry, 8 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high
7. Crescendo	Floribunda	pink, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 85 cm high
8. Debut	Floribunda	light yellow, terry, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 65 cm high
9.Elbflorenz	hybrid tea roses	bright pink, double, 9 cm	strong	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
10. Gebruder Grimm	Floribunda	orange with pink, thick double, 7 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
11.Golden Gate	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
12.Goldspatz	Scrub	light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	missing	with drooping stems, height 150 cm
13.Grande Amore	hybrid tea roses	bright red, terry, 10 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
14. Heidetraum	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 4 cm	missing	low, spreading, 75 cm high
15.Hella	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	white, semi-double, 9 cm	weak	with shoots 250 cm long
16.Flashlight	Scrub	pink, double, 10 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high
17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose	Floribunda	cream, thick double, 10 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
18. Eliza	hybrid tea roses	silver-pink, terry, 9 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
19. Intarsia	Floribunda	yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
20. Isarperle	Floribunda	creamy white, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 75 cm high
21. Jasmina	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	purple-pink, dense double, 6 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
22. Kir Royal	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	pink, terry, 6 cm	weak	with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long
23. Kosmos	Floribunda	cream, thick double, 8 cm	medium strength	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
24. La Perla	hybrid tea roses	cream, thick double, 9 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
25. Innocencia	Floribunda	pure white, semi-double, 5 cm	weak	compact, branched, 50 cm high
26. Schone Koblenzerin	Floribunda	red with cream, thick double, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60 cm high
27. Sedana	groundcover rose	creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
28. La Rose de Molinard	Scrub	bright pink, dense double, 8 cm	strong	straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high
29. Laguna	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	bright pink, double, 10 cm	strong	stems 250 cm long
30. Larissa	Scrub	pink, terry, 5 cm	missing	dense, branched, 80 cm high
31. Medley Pink	Scrub	pink, semi-double, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high
32. Mirato	groundcover rose	hot pink, terry, 6-7 cm	weak	sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high
33. Pastella	Floribunda	cream with pink, thick double, 6-8 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 60-80 cm high
34. Pink Paradise	hybrid tea roses	bright pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm	strong	compact, densely leafy, 90 cm high
35. Pink Swany	Scrub	pink, double, 6-7 cm	missing	sprawling with flowing shoots 50-60 cm high
36. Planten un Blomen	Floribunda	red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
37. Pomponella	Floribunda	pink, double, 4 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
38. Red Leonardo da Vinci	Floribunda	dark red, thick double, 7 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high
39. Resonanz	Floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm	weak	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
40. Rouge Meilove	Floribunda	dark red, thick double, 5 cm	weak	sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high
41. Schloss Ippenburg	hybrid tea roses	salmon pink, double, 8-10 cm	strong	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
42. Schneeflocke	groundcover rose	white, semi-double, 6 cm	weak	strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm high
43. Shining Light	Scrub	yellow, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high
44. Sinea	Floribunda	burgundy, loose, terry, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high
45. Solero	Floribunda	light yellow, thick double, 6 cm	weak	sprawling, branched, 70 cm high
46. ​​Sorrento	groundcover rose	red, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high
47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden	hybrid tea roses	creamy pink, thick double, 10 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
48. Stadt Rom	groundcover rose	salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm	weak	compact, well-branched, 50-60 cm high
49. Westzeit	Floribunda	orange, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
50. Yellow Meilove	Scrub	light yellow, thick terry, 5 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes' Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard

Deciphering the sivols in the description of the varieties of roses in the photo

1. Climbing roses: for planting near a support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Flowerbed roses: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.
4.Potted plants: can be grown in pot culture too.

To be continued. Part will be added to this article, the rest in Part 2 where we will tell you more about caring for each type of roses and the intricacies of growing them.

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Miniature roses in landscape design (with photo)

Miniature roses in the photo

The first miniature roses appeared in China, and from there they were brought to Europe in 1810. This is a historically recorded fact, but they did not receive wide distribution in the 19th century, their triumphal procession began only in 1918, when Dr. Roulette found a miniature rose bush in Switzerland, which he later multiplied and called the “Roulette” rose. It was she who became the ancestor of almost all modern varieties of miniature roses.

Since 1823 this group has become very popular in France for decorating parterres in gardens and parks and for decorating winter gardens. Over time, interest in them waned. Around 1910, they were re-grown in large numbers in pots. About 20 species were distributed.

In Russia, these roses were grown in the collection of the Imperial Botanical Garden, which was led by the outstanding botanist E. Regel.

The hybridization of miniature roses on a large scale began in 1940 by Spanish and Dutch breeders. To obtain new hybrids, they used low-growing roses of other groups.Thanks to interspecific hybridization and selection, a number of varieties were obtained that retained the main characteristics of miniature roses, but received a bright and varied color, as well as an elegant flower shape.

The description of miniature roses is quite consistent with the name of the group: these little beauties are really small - their height is only 10-30 cm, but the shoots are abundantly covered with small dark green shiny leaves.

Roses can have thin, durable thorns or be smooth-bore. The flowers are small - 1-3 cm in diameter, usually double, cupped, single or collected in apical inflorescences. The flowering is abundant and long - lasting almost non-stop throughout the summer.

Own-rooted miniature roses do not give root growth, so they are propagated by green cuttings. In the room, this is done in March-September, on the street - in May-August.

The descendants of the Roulette rose are grown today in a variety of forms: there are spray (considered classic), and trellis, and ground cover, and standard, and climbing. Therefore, their use is very diverse. Miniature roses are grown mainly as potted plants, but sometimes they can be seen on flower beds, and in flower beds, and in borders, and in garden groups, and on alpine slides.

As you can see in the photo, you can decorate walls, balconies, and decorate arches with miniature roses in landscape design:

Miniature roses on the walls (photo)

Miniature roses on the balcony (photo)

Miniature roses adorn the arches (photo)

On their own roots, the plants reach a height of 15-20 cm, the bush turns out to be compact, well leafy; grafted on rose hips - much higher (30-50 cm).

Rapidly lignified shoots grow straight, each forming up to 80 flowers. Leaves are compound, 5-7 leathery shiny leaves, ovoid, finely serrated along the edge, in most varieties they are dark green, but there are varieties with bronze-brown foliage or light green with dark veins.

Garden roses have small flowers with many petals. They do not retain their color throughout the entire flowering period: the bush simultaneously has lemon-yellow, coral-pink, crimson-crimson flowers, which makes the plant exceptionally elegant. In temperate zones, the buds do not bloom for a long time, in half-release they have the form of noble large-colored roses. In hot conditions, the buds bloom on the 4-5th day and the whole bush is covered with bright beautiful flowers throughout the summer.

Cut flowers stand in water for 7-9 days without losing their decorative effect; in some varieties they have a delicate aroma.

The flowering of most varieties continues with regular watering until frost (in the southern region - 5-6 months); some weakening occurs in the hot dry months (July and August).

Look at the photo - miniature roses can decorate any garden plot:

Miniature roses in the country (photo)

Miniature roses in the garden (photo)

Miniature roses in the garden (photo)

They are good in groups on the lawn, in vases on the porch, along the paths, in compositions with ornamental shrubs and perennials.

Indoor varieties of miniature roses are sometimes called dwarf bush roses or patio roses, and greenhouse varieties are called pot roses. The latter usually do not exceed 25 cm in height and are grown as houseplants. Their flowers are also tiny, no more than 2-4 cm in diameter, double or semi-double, all flowers inherent in roses.

And although miniature roses do not stretch up, they can please with rich branching. Usually these roses don't smell. Along with growing in pots, they can also be planted in small flower beds or along paths.

The indisputable advantage of growing miniature roses is the ease of their propagation by cuttings. Own-rooted roses bloom almost continuously and, without strong roots, like grafted roses, can be used as an indoor culture.

Growing miniature roses: care and pruning

Growing miniature roses is usually not difficult if you provide them with optimal conditions: a sunny place, sheltered from the northerly winds, and slightly acidic soil that retains moisture well (light loams are ideal).

Caring for miniature roses is also easy. It is necessary to regularly water the roses, loosen the soil after watering and during the growing season give four top dressing: 1st - after the bush is freed from the shelter with ammonium nitrate, 2nd - as the shoots grow with carbamide, 3rd - when buds appear with full mineral fertilizer, 4th - in August with superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

When growing miniature roses in the garden, keep in mind that, like hybrid tea, they are affected by powdery mildew, marsonina (black leaf spot), aphids and rose sawfly.

For the winter, miniature roses are covered only when the sub-zero temperature becomes stable and settles at a level not lower than -7 ° C. It is not recommended to use peat, sand and sawdust for shelter - peat acidifies the soil, sand hardens, and sawdust absorbs moisture and loses its protective properties after freezing. Dry foliage covered with agril is ideal. The bushes are spud, covered with leaves, a wire frame is installed on top, the height of which is 20-30 cm higher than the bush. Agryl is placed on the frame and all this is covered with plastic wrap on top and its ends are fixed with the help of heavy improvised materials (pipes, bricks, etc.). In this form, miniature roses winter well. In order to avoid damping in the spring in March - April during thaws, airing is carried out, opening the leeward side of the frame.

South of the Central zone of Russia, miniature roses are well preserved in winter, being covered with an earthen mound 15-20 cm high. With lower hilling in frosty winters, the shoots freeze over. In spring they grow back quickly, but bloom 5-7 days later than those that have not suffered.

Miniature roses are propagated by green and semi-lignified cuttings. Can be propagated by budding on rose hips. The difficulty lies in the fact that these roses have very thin shoots from which the eyes are taken, while the size of the eye should correspond to the thickness of the rootstock.

In these plants, the buds sit close to each other, which makes it difficult to prune miniature roses, they must be cut to a few centimeters above the ground. 2-3 buds are left on each stem of a miniature rose. Pruning of this group of roses is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Miniature roses, unlike large-flowered ones, need more careful care. To preserve their decorative effect, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted flowers.

You can decorate balconies, loggias, terraces, small flower beds with these roses, but you should know that the scent is a rare phenomenon for these plants. And further. If the balcony is flooded with bright sun all day, the roses will feel bad on it. Constant exposure to the sun is categorically contraindicated for miniature roses - in this case, their flowers bloom one after another so quickly that it is impossible to remove the faded ones in time. From this, flowering gradually becomes less and less abundant, and soon the bushes lose their decorative effect.

Next, you can familiarize yourself with the photo and description of miniature roses, the most popular among flower growers.

The best varieties of miniature roses: photo and description

Currently, the following are considered the best varieties of miniature roses.

Orange Jewel - flowers are salmon-orange, large, densely doubled, noble in shape, do not fade for a long time. The bush is strong, compact, grows easily. The height of this variety of miniature roses is 30 cm.

"Amulet" - flowers of rich pink-red color, large, densely double. The foliage is green. The bush is dense, fast growing, healthy. This variety is renowned for its charming flowers and abundant and long-lasting flowering. Height - 50 cm.

Little Baccarat - low (up to 25 cm) bush, spreading. Leaves are shiny with a bronze tint. The flowers are semi-double, red-crimson with a white center. They have a pleasant scent.

"Baby Baccarat" - are distinguished by the ideal shape of the flower, velvety red, almost black in color.

"Garnet" - densely leafy bush, strong, shiny, dark leaf, abundant flowering. The flowers are large (up to 5 cm in diameter), perfectly shaped, crimson-red.

Common varieties "Baby Carnival" with pink-red flowers,

Pixie, White Jam — with whites,

"Eleanor" - with coral pink.

This selection contains photos of the best varieties of miniature roses:

"Orange Jewel" in the photo

"Little Baccarat" in the photo

"Baby Baccarat" in the photo

Rose is a plant belonging to the Rosehips. In the wild, these flowers mainly grow in the temperate climate of the Northern Hemisphere, but in our central Russia, roses are grown when planting and nursing in the open field, as well as at home.

General information

Roses are very attractive and are not only used as ordinary garden plants or houseplants. They are used in gardening, rose petal jam, and rose oil.

Growing up, roses form bushes with their shoots, the height of which differs depending on the type of plant. Some types of roses reach 30 cm in height, while others grow more than two and a half meters.

The branches of the plant are divided into uterine and annual stems. The shape of the leaf differs depending on the type of flower.

Peduncle size also varies from species to species. It can be short, or it can grow almost a meter. Rose flowers come in various shapes and colors, the size varies from a couple of centimeters in diameter to 15-20 cm. The number of petals in flowers is also different, from 5 to 120 pieces.

The colors of roses are of all possible colors - pink, black, white, even blue roses are bred. And the pinnacle of breeders' achievements are varieties that change color during flowering.

There is no way to describe the huge variety of roses. Among cultivated roses, park and garden roses are distinguished; it is also worth remembering indoor varieties. Most often, bush roses, climbing, miniature, floribunda and grandiflora roses are grown.

But the rather popular Chinese rose is actually hibiscus, and the desert rose is adenium.

A lot of varietal roses have been bred and it would take a very long time to list even a small fraction of varieties.

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Rose planting and care in the open field

Roses are quite demanding plants, so planting and caring for them requires knowledge of the characteristics of this flower.

Planting roses is best done in the fall, but no later than mid-season. It is also advised to purchase material for planting in the autumn, since in the spring they are often sold that were left over from last year.

Rosehips are photophilous and the place of cultivation for them should be chosen unshaded, but if you have climbing roses, it is better that the midday sun does not bake them. Drafts and northerly winds are bad for plants, and do not plant flowers in places where groundwater rises high to the surface.

To plant roses, you need to drain the soil, which should be slightly acidic (about 6 pH), fertility is not so important, but it affects the beauty of flowering, so fertile substrates are welcome.

Before planting roses, the seedlings are shortened to 20 cm and placed in water for a couple of hours. A hole for a rose is dug about 50 cm in, and the depth is made 10 cm deeper than its roots.

The soil from the pit must be mixed with compost. For three lobes of land, one share of compost is taken. It is also worth mixing a little ash into the substrate, and pouring a bucket of water with a heteroauxin tablet into the hole.

The rose is planted so that the grafting site sinks four centimeters into the soil, and for climbing roses - ten centimeters.

The flower must be placed in the hole and carefully covered with the substrate, trampling it down as the hole is filled. Young plants need to be hilled 15 cm and shaded for 15 days. Climbing roses spud 20 cm.

A distance of at least one meter must be observed between the landing sites.

Not far from the bushes, you need to warm up a small shaft from the soil so that the water does not spread during watering.

If groundwater is too high on your site, then you need to make an elevated flower bed for the roses, otherwise the roots will often rot.

Also, if the soil where you want to plant the plants is very clayey, then you need to dig it up with sand.

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Planting roses in open ground in spring

Young roses may not stand up to very cold winters and therefore, if you live in regions that are too frosty, plant flowers in the spring. The best period at this time is mid-April and almost all of May.

The planting process in spring is almost the same as in autumn. Right before planting, the seedlings need to be dipped in a clay mash, and after planting, the site is covered with mulch.

If there is a threat of frost, then the stems must be covered with a film, which must be removed for some time every day for airing. The time without film must be gradually increased, since the plants are hardened in this way. The film is completely removed when the frost is probably gone.

During the first year after planting, roses undergo a formation period. At this time, the main thing is to pinch the stems to improve bushiness. It is also important in the first half of the summer to remove the flower buds as soon as they begin to appear. In the second period of summer, the buds are also removed, but after formation. If you have a climbing rose, then it needs to be supported.

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Watering roses

It is not necessary to water the flowers often, but only as needed, when the soil dries up. Regular watering is needed only for the first year, which needs to be watered every couple of days.

During the growing season, watering is carried out a little more often so that the green mass develops better. And at the end of summer, watering, on the contrary, is reduced. It is preferable to carry out the procedure in the morning. Do not use cold water.

You need to water the bushes carefully, because water can erode the soil, it is best to use drip irrigation.

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Fertilizers for roses

As for fertilizer, the first years do not need to be fed at all. Further, fertilizers must be applied in this way.

In the spring, during the stage of active growth, a double dose of fertilizer is applied, then feeding is carried out during the appearance of buds, at the end of flowering and before the stems begin to grow stiff.

In the spring, for fertilization, take 20 grams of ammonium sulfate for each square meter of soil. After a couple of weeks, this fertilization is repeated. During the formation of buds, feeding is carried out using 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per square meter.

At the end of flowering, the plant is fed with a complex fertilizer, and in the fall with potassium salt with superphosphate, about 30 grams per square meter. Among organic fertilizers, chicken droppings, ash, and manure are perfect. No fertilization is carried out during the flowering period.

For adult roses, fertilization is possible only with organic matter, but do not overdo it, otherwise the plant may give dense foliage, but not bloom.

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When to replant roses

Over time, roses grow and lose their beauty, and when this happens, they need to be transplanted. Repotting is best done in April or October, but spring is still preferred.

Before starting the transplant, the bush is cut to 20 cm, and all the leaves are torn off. The bush must be removed from the soil along with an earthen lump. To facilitate its movement, the roots are laid on a piece of cloth. You can plant a rose with this fabric, it will rot over time.

Climbing roses are transplanted much less often, usually only if a bad place is chosen for growing and if the plant dies in the old place. When transplanting this variety of roses, you need to be more careful, since their roots are more sensitive than others.

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Pruning roses

In spring, summer and autumn, you need to prune the bushes. Spring pruning is carried out to form the shape of a bush, in summer it is carried out to clean the bushes from unnecessary buds, dull flowers, fruits. In the fall, bad stems are removed from the plant.

Pruning is carried out until the buds are swollen. Only strong branches should be left, of which the young are preferred.

Older plants need to be pruned more carefully, as they are worse at restoring the crown, the same applies to flowers planted on poor soil. After the operation, the cut sites must be treated with garden varnish.

In autumn, these rose hips do not require watering and special supervision, in addition to weeding and loosening the soil.

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Preparing roses for the winter

Before winter, they need to be spud with a mixture of peat and sand. Hilling is carried out with the onset of the first frost, and the site is covered with a film to prevent precipitation from falling on them.

Before wintering, leaves are cut off from plants and burned. It is also advisable to treat the bushes with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. When the night temperature drops to -6ºC, roses are warmed with spruce branches.

To prevent rodents from disturbing your plants in winter, you need to scatter poison baits around the flower bed.

If you covered the area with insulation and oilcloth, then from time to time it will need to be ventilated so that the bushes do not bump.

Climbing roses must be removed from the supports before winter and lowered to the ground. Old roses do not fit well and therefore, it will be necessary to bend them to the ground gradually. This procedure must be carried out at positive temperatures, otherwise the bushes will break. Before wintering, a climbing rose is pinned in the soil, and insulated in the same way as an ordinary one.

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Rose home care at home

If you want to have a room rose, then remember that they do not like cold water and too hot temperatures in the summer.

When buying a plant, do not rush to transplant it; first you need to wait for the rose to get used to the new conditions.

During the period of growing green mass, you need to water the rose well, and during the rest of the time, watering is carried out a little less often, but make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pot.

A rose transplant is carried out by transshipment in the waxing moon phase. It is necessary to carry out the operation if the plant has filled the entire pot, if the soil in the container with the plant is depleted or the plant has aged and needs to be rejuvenated.

We recommend fertilizing indoor roses with a mullein once every 15 days, and during the flowering period every 7 days. If the plant is sick or has recently been transplanted, feeding is not necessary, and it is also better not to fertilize the flowers in gloomy and cold weather.

In summer, moving it to the balcony will benefit a room rose. You can start to take out the flower after the night temperature becomes warm. At first, the rose needs to be kept in the shade so that it adapts, and then it is moved to diffused light.

For the winter, the stems need to be cut so that there are 4 buds on each branch. Pruning can also be done in the spring, before the plant begins to develop. In winter, the flower is watered every three days and sprayed.

Roses are very sensitive to drafts and plant protection with a paper cylinder is a good solution to this problem (the cylinder is about half a flower high).

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Propagation of roses by seeds

Reproduction of roses is carried out by seeds and vegetatively. Seed propagation is usually used only for wild roses, and not all of them can produce full-fledged seeds.

The material is taken at the stage when the fruit turns red. This usually happens in August or a little earlier.

Then stratification is carried out in wet sand at a temperature of about 3 ºC.With the onset of spring, the seeds are treated with stimulants for better root formation and sown to a depth of two centimeters, and then covered with humus mulch.

When a pair of true leaves appears in sprouted roses, they are transplanted so that the seedlings are at a distance of 7 cm from each other, and the gap between the rows is 20 cm. In the summer, the area with young roses must be fertilized with mineral fertilizer.

Until next August, you need to take care of the bushes, and then they are taken as a stock.

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Reproduction of roses by cuttings in summer

Usually, the best results are obtained by propagation by cuttings, which can be done in different ways.

For a simple, natural way to root shoots in summer, you need to cut the stems in the evening or early in the morning. Slightly woody shoots or those that are about to bloom or have recently faded are preferred.

You can find out that the stem is ready for breeding by breaking off a thorn on it. If it breaks off easily, then you can use the shoot as a cutting.

The length of the cuttings should be about 14 cm, and each of them should have a pair of leaves and buds without flowers. Excess leaves are plucked.

The incision is treated with an agent for stimulating root growth and placed in water to which pieces of rose leaf are added.

Cuttings are planted directly into the ground, having previously treated the pits for planting with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The branches need to be covered with jars that will serve as greenhouses for them. Young cuttings are very sensitive and the daytime temperature must not drop below 25 ºC and the night temperature 19ºC until rooting has taken place.

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Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes

An interesting way is to root cuttings in potatoes. To do this, in the spring, you need to dig a shallow trench, about 15 cm, and fill it 5 cm with sand.

Twenty-centimeter cuttings are stuck into potatoes, from which you need to cut out all the eyes, and then they will simply be thrown into your little ditch with sand. At first, the seedlings can be kept under glass jars.

It is important to constantly water the cuttings, and once every 5 days, water it with sweetened water (2 tea boats of sugar per glass of water).

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How to propagate a rose with cuttings from a bouquet

If you were presented with a bouquet of domestic roses, then they can be used for propagation. Imported flowers will not work as they are treated with preservatives.

All flowers, thorns, buds are removed from the cuttings, and the leaves are removed from below and shortened from above. The stem itself is cut to 20 cm. Then it is simply placed in distilled water, which is changed until roots appear.

Further procedures do not differ from those described above for conventional cuttings.

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Propagation of roses by cuttings in a package

The finished cuttings are placed in a bag with moist soil, inflated and tied well, and then placed on the windowsill. In about a month, roots should form and the cuttings can be planted.

Transplanting cuttings is done before winter, if you want to plant cuttings in spring or later, you have received the desired cutting and it seems difficult to keep it.

Just dig the shoot into the soil and arrange a dry shelter for it so that the cold does not reach it, and plant the cuttings in the spring.

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Reproduction of roses in the Burito way

Burito's method is completely unreliable, since root formation does not occur even in 50% of cases. But sometimes it does happen.

The cuttings should be treated with a root-growth agent and then placed in a damp newspaper in a dark, warm place (about 17 ° C). You will have a chance that after 15 days the cuttings will form roots, but let's be honest - this chance is scanty.

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Reproduction of roses in the Trannoy way

To reproduce with this type, you need to cut off the top of the shoot with a limp flower and a few small leaves. Further, it is observed until the kidneys from below begin to swell. This indicates that the stem is ready for growing.

At this time, the cuttings need to be cut to 20 cm, remove all the leaves except the top two and plant in a well-lit area, several copies at once in one hole. Cover the cuttings with a large plastic container, which is not removed until the cold weather. Seedlings will sometimes need to be watered and loosened up in the soil next to them.

This method is also quite unreliable, but still better than the previous one.

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Propagation of roses by grafts

They need to be grafted onto young rose hips. The dog rose and its varieties are considered the best for this, but others can be used. The vaccine is usually done in the middle of summer.

To do this, remove the lateral stems from the stock and clean its root collar from the soil. A T-shaped incision is made on it in which the cutting is placed. Check the kidney after 20 days. If it is swollen, then everything is fine, but if it turns black, then the grafting failed. Before wintering, grafted roses are spud 5 cm above the grafting level.

In the spring, the earth is raked, and the plant on which the grafting was carried out is cut one centimeter above the grafting site. When the flower begins to grow, it will need to be pinched over the third leaf.

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Reproduction of roses by dividing the bush is possible only for non-grafted species

For such reproduction, it is necessary in the spring, even before the buds begin to bloom, dig up a rose and cut it in such a way that on each division there is a part of the root and a shoot. The places of the cuts are powdered with coal and then parts of the bush are simply planted like ordinary roses.

To propagate a rose by layering, in early spring you need to make an annular cut on the stem that grows from the root collar, and then bend it into the hole, fix it and sprinkle it with moist soil. Further, the soil will need to be moistened until autumn, when the cuttings take root. It will be possible to separate the cub from the mother next spring.

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Diseases and pests

The worst pests for roses are aphids and spider mites... In the early stages, aphids can be fought by simply cutting off the leaves or crushing the aphids, you can also wash the leaves with soap, but if this does not help, you need to buy an insecticide "for roses and grapes" in a specialized store.

WITH spider mite you can fight with an infusion of wormwood or tobacco, but if the pest has spread too much, it is better to buy a means to combat it. This pest affects the rose if it grows in dry conditions and lacks moisture.

Also, the rose can be attacked thrips, cicadas, rose sawfly, but if you take proper care of the plant, they will not appear.

One of the diseases dangerous for the rose is bacterial cancer, which can be recognized by the growths that gradually harden. This disease cannot be cured and the plant will die.

Examine the material before purchasing, and also carry out pest control before planting with a three percent Bordeaux liquid. If you notice growths on the plant, try removing the leaves and treating the cuts with copper sulfate, but there is no guarantee that you will have time to help the flower.

Coniotirium it is a disease that affects the bark of plants. It appears as brown spots that darken over time and “ring” the stem. These shoots must be cut off and burned immediately. Also, if this ailment is found, before winter it is necessary to stop fertilizing the rose with nitrogen, and replace it with potassium dressing.

Powdery rose represents white spots. Sick areas should be immediately removed and burned, and the plant should be treated with iron (3%) or copper (2%) vitriol.

Brown spots on the leaves and the falling off of the latter indicate black spot... To prevent the development of the disease, you need to fertilize the rose with potassium-phosphorus dressings in the fall, as well as treat the plant and the area where it is grown with Bordeaux liquid (3%).

Also, the rose can get sick gray mold, after which the plant is most often burned.But, if the fungus has not entered into force, then you can try to cure it with a Bordeaux solution diluted in water (100 grams per bucket). In this way, a diseased plant will need to be processed 3-4 times every seven days.

• If your rose is not blooming, then you may just have acquired a weak plant or a variety that rarely blooms. This also happens if the flower lacks light or nutrients. The lack of flowering can be caused by freezing in winter. But the most dangerous reason for the lack of flowering, in which the rose loses its varietal properties, is the wildness of the plant.
• If you notice shoots with small leaves and an abundance of thorns, then immediately cut them off (usually such stems appear from the very bottom of the bush). If you do not fight them, then over time these shoots capture the entire bush and it runs wild.
• The leaves of roses can fall off if they are struck by pests or a disease, and besides this, the reason is often hidden in the roots of the plant. The root can rot, and there are also cases of damage by bears or May beetle larvae, mice and moles.
• In addition to diseases, the leaves of a rose can turn yellow from an elementary lack of nutrients such as nitrogen, iron and manganese, as well as potassium.

With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn yellow alternately. First, this happens with the bottom layer, which falls off after yellowing. Further, such a fate awaits the middle leaves, and then the whole bush. With a lack of potassium, the leaves begin to turn yellow from the edge, and then dry out. With a lack of trace elements, the veins on the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. Another cause of yellowness is excess moisture in the soil.

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