Raspberry remontant varieties planting and care in the open field

Repairing raspberries are a great alternative to regular raspberries

Raspberries are considered one of the favorite berries of gardeners.

What a pity that the summer in our strip is very short. After all, there is so much you want to have time to do with berries: close the jars with compotes and jam, make a fragrant jam and just enjoy it from the heart.

It is impossible to prolong the summer, but it is quite possible to enjoy the berries to their fullest. If you plant remontant raspberries on the site, you can harvest 2-3 times in one summer season.

The most important thing is to know the basic secrets of proper care and planting.

Landing

Repaired raspberries are very demanding on the choice of the place and time of planting, as well as on the properties of the soil. It is very important to follow the tips that experienced gardeners recommend to follow so that it can take root well and give a crop.

Choosing a landing site

It is recommended to plant raspberries in a bright, sunny area. In a darkened place, it will not yield a good harvest. The land should warm up well in the sun, so it is better to choose the southern side of the site.

To protect the shrubbery from wind and drafts, you can plant it next to a fence, shed or house (near buildings).

The soil should be fertile and loose, it is good to let oxygen and moisture to the roots. Water will stagnate in clay soil. If the soil is not rich in minerals, it is recommended to fertilize it well before planting, as well as add peat, compost, sand.

Planting remontant raspberries should only be in areas exposed to the sun.

Raspberries should not be planted where potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes, or bell peppers grew a year ago.
It is not recommended to re-plant the shrub where it has already grown earlier. This soil is unsuitable, as it becomes infertile.

Timing for boarding

For our strip, the optimal time for disembarkation is early autumn (early October, late September). You can navigate by the time when the tulip bulbs are planted.It is not worth delaying the planting of seedlings, since they must take root and prepare for the long winter. Previously, it is also not necessary, because the roots of the seedlings are still weak and will not take root.

Some plant raspberries in the spring by digging in the seedlings in an inclined position. If you do this in May or early June, the seedlings should be kept under a layer of snow and ice, covered with sawdust or straw on top.

Soil preparation

First, the earth is carefully dug up, roots, grass, dry leaves are removed and loosened. A hole is dug under each seedling (about 35 by 35 cm).

Since raspberries love fertile soil, it is recommended to apply fertilizer immediately before planting at the rate of 1-1.5 buckets of peat and humus per bush. Instead of potash fertilizers, it is recommended to use ordinary ash.

Landing features

Avoid placing the seedling too deep in the ground.

It must be borne in mind that raspberries will grow, so there should be 70-80 cm of free space between the bushes and up to 1-2 meters between the rows.

You can make a fence from boards dug in 20-30 cm along the edge of the area with raspberries. This will prevent the roots from spreading further along the site.

Planting seedlings is not difficult. In each hole, you need to place the plant vertically, sprinkle it with earth, lightly tamp and water it. The root collar remains at ground level. It is not necessary to deepen the seedling, as the raspberry will grow poorly.

Breeding types

Propagating a remontant raspberry bush is not at all difficult. With the help of a simple trick, you can accelerate the reproduction of remontant raspberries. 2-3 years after planting the bush, you should carefully remove part of the bush in the center (0.1-0.2 m in diameter). This should be done in early spring or autumn (in September, early October).

Next year, new shoots will appear from the roots, which will serve for planting.

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Harvesting cuttings

Cuttings are harvested in the spring. It is better to take shoots with a small aerial part (5 cm) when a rosette of leaves has formed. Taller shoots take root less well, since their growth has already begun. Overgrown offspring take root very poorly.

The stalk must be carefully trimmed and removed together with the ground. Sprinkle the cut with charcoal before planting. Do not rinse or put cuttings in water.

Before planting, the soil must be well loosened, moistened and fertilized. After 2-3 weeks, the cuttings will give roots. If you decide to replant them, you need to do this a month after rooting.

The best cuttings are obtained from shoots with a small aerial part

Caring for remontant raspberries

In order for raspberries to bring a good harvest, it is necessary to properly care for them.

Watering

Raspberries love abundant watering. Its productivity will largely depend on timely good watering. It is necessary to water thoroughly so that the earth can be saturated with moisture to the very roots (by 30-40 cm). At the same time, you should not overdo it, since excess moisture causes no less harm.

In hot weather, you need to water more often, and less often in rainy weather. During flowering and ripening of berries, it is recommended to water more.

The best way to irrigate is drip. It allows you to meter the water supply, moisture rushes better to the roots and the earth is moistened more evenly. In addition, drip irrigation water is consumed more economically.

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Top dressing

In late spring and in the first half of summer, it is better to feed raspberries with nitrogen fertilizers. In August and early September - complex, which include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium.

A good effect is achieved from the use of liquid organic dressings (infusion of bird droppings).

If the shrub grows and develops well, gives abundant foliage, strong shoots and large berries, you should not overdo it with fertilizers. This is especially true for fertilizers that contain nitrogen. It stimulates active foliage growth and stops the emergence of berries.

In some areas, the land is so rich in microelements that it is practically not required to feed the bush.

Pruning

Special attention should be paid to pruning. Pruning is carried out in the first and second year of life. Some gardeners do it once, but for the best effect in our region, it is better to carry out the procedure in several stages.

The first pruning consists of pinching the tops with a secateurs. This should be done when the plant has reached a height of 120-150 cm. After pinching, the shrub will stop growing up. Side shoots and leaves will begin to develop. New shoots next year will give a good harvest of berries. Pinching is done in the spring.

In the spring, you need to remove the side shoots of the bush in order to increase the yield and quality of the berries.

The next pruning is carried out in the fall and consists in removing all the "stumps". Pruning is carried out after the last harvest, when the shrub finishes bearing fruit and all the berries are completely harvested.

Autumn processing will make it possible to winter the raspberries well. All shoots that have yielded a crop (to the very base) are removed.

A year later, in the spring, the bush must be cut off again - side shoots are removed from the main trunk. On the lateral branches, the tops are pinched to the first (and sometimes to the second) strong bud. In this case, new shoots will go from them, giving berries.

Winter care, preparation for winter

Before the onset of cold weather, it will be useful to carry out the mulching procedure. Only organic products are suitable as mulch: sawdust, humus, hay, manure.

Mulching should be done after pruning. This procedure will help protect the root system from frost. In the spring, the mulch layer can be left on, because it will serve as food during growth.

Pest and disease control

To protect the shrub from the raspberry beetle and white larva, it is recommended to plant raspberries at a distance from other garden plants (so as not to treat them with insecticidal preparations).

Top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers will help protect the leaves from attack by caterpillars.

If a spider mite has settled on raspberries, it should be treated with a tincture of onion peel and onion peel with the addition of colloidal sulfur.

It is strictly forbidden to process raspberries during flowering and fruiting. Poisonous substances will get into the berries.

Varieties

Consider the best raspberry varieties that are particularly popular.
«Apricot»- refers to new varieties of remontant raspberries. The berries are amber with a pink tint and have a juicy apricot flavor. The berries appear in August, and the bush bears fruit until the frost. It is convenient to care for and harvest the shrubs, because the thorns are located at the bottom of the shoots.

«Atlant"- has good resistance to diseases and pests. The shrub grows up to two meters. Root system. Atlanta is sprawling and powerful, therefore drought-resistant. It bears fruit well. With proper care, up to 5 kg of berries can be harvested from one bush per season.

«Hercules"- differs in large berries (up to 9 g per berry) and high yield. The berries of this variety are rich in color, juicy, sweet, aromatic. Jam and compote from this variety are excellent.

«Orange miracle"- is distinguished by rich, bright orange fruits. The berries are sweet and large (up to 9 g per berry). The variety bears abundant fruit, well protected from pests and diseases.

Photos of these varieties in the appropriate order are presented in the gallery:

Application in landscape design

Varieties of remontant raspberries are distinguished by good decorative qualities, so shrubs can be used in creating landscape design. Raspberries will look great as a hedge, give an aesthetic look to country buildings (bathhouse, barn, house) and simply create coziness and a special atmosphere on the territory of a suburban area.

As you can see, caring for remontant raspberries is not so difficult to carry out. It is very important to choose a suitable place for planting, properly cultivate the soil, water, feed, and trim the plant on time. Careful and caring care will ensure a good, bountiful harvest.

And here is a 20-minute video to help you get to know the remontant raspberry:

Jul 9, 2015Elena Tymoshchuk

Raspberry is a common garden shrub. Ordinary varieties begin to bear fruit only in the second year after planting, and yield only one harvest per season.

Repaired raspberries are not very different from other varieties, but they have a significant advantage - they are capable of producing several harvests per year. As a rule, her overall yield is higher. Repaired raspberries are more resistant to diseases and pests common for this culture, therefore, the quality of the fruits is higher. In addition, it is easy to care for.

Another important feature is that almost all remontant varieties are large-fruited.

Unsurprisingly, remontant raspberries are so popular with gardeners. Such varieties are profitable to grow both on personal plots for personal use and on plantations for commercial purposes. We will tell you about the rules of growing, planting and care in this article.

Optimal planting time

Planting remontant raspberries in the open field is carried out both in spring and autumn. The most suitable time is autumn, the period from the end of September to the beginning of October. This is for temperate latitudes.

In more southern regions, planting can be done in late October or early November. In the fall, raspberries take root better, during the winter period they are not exposed to diseases, and in the spring the culture is already ready for intensive growth. However, it can be planted in early spring (before the buds have blossomed).

General advice for planting

Repaired raspberries take root well in light fertile soils. Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 1 m from the surface of the area where the raspberry tree will be located. Repaired varieties require more light and moisture than regular raspberries.

The plant also needs a lot of heat. If the raspberries are located in the shade, then the ripening time will be postponed, and the harvest will not be plentiful. The area for the raspberry tree should be protected from strong winds (it is better to plant shrubs along the fence, wall of a house or other building).

Soil preparation

Before planting remontant raspberries in the open field, you should pay attention to the characteristics and type of soil. The most suitable type of soil is loam (soil containing clay and significant amounts of sand). The acidity index should be in the range of 5.8-6.7 pH.

If the soil is too acidic, then it is neutralized with dolomite, ground limestone or marl. Raspberries develop well if mustard or rye are poured into the ground 1.5 months before planting. It is not recommended to plant this crop in an area where tomatoes, potatoes or peppers were growing. They deplete the soil, pulling out all the nutrients and trace elements from it.

Step-by-step planting instructions

In the spring

"Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the cart in the winter." When planting remontant raspberries in spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall. The site is cleared of weeds, the earth is dug up. At the same time, the soil should be fertilized.For each square meter of the plot, it is necessary to add about 2 buckets of humus, a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulphide (instead of them, you can take 200-300 g of complex mineral dressings), the soil is carefully dug up.

An important stage is the selection of a seedling. The plant must have a well-developed root system. The thickness of the stem at the base should be at least 5 mm, and the optimal shoot height should be no more than 20-25 cm. It is easy to check the viability of the seedling.

Pry the bark of the young shoot slightly before buying. The stem should be greenish. The seedling buds should not be dry. If the root system is dry, then before planting, the seedling should be immersed in water with a growth stimulator for a day. This measure is guaranteed to increase the survival rate of remontant raspberries in the open field.

Next, the landing pits are prepared. Their depth should be about 40-50 cm. The distance between the holes in a row should be about 70 cm, and a distance of one and a half meters or more should be kept between the rows. Immediately before planting, the roots can be dipped in a solution of clay, black soil and mullein. In no case should mineral fertilizers be applied to the pit, so as not to burn the young sensitive raspberry roots.

After that, a seedling is installed, straightening the roots. The planting hole is filled with soil in such a way that the root collar is at the level of the surface of the site.

It should be noted that on sandy soils, the root collar can be at a depth of up to 4 cm. After compaction of the earth, watering is carried out. Pour about 5 liters of water under each bush. After being absorbed, the raspberries are mulched with sawdust, straw, bark or plant residues.

In autumn

As already mentioned, the best time to plant remontant raspberries is autumn. When planting in autumn, the soil is prepared in the spring - it is dug up, while fertilizing it. In the fall, raspberries are planted according to the same algorithm as in the spring.

Care

In the spring

Measures for the care of remontant raspberries begin immediately after wintering, from the first days of March, while the ground is still frozen. At this time, complex mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil.

Sanitary pruning of shrubs is carried out in mid-April. Dried or damaged shoots are removed and healthy stems are pruned to the first healthy bud. If you suspect a fungal disease, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate. If there are no signs of the disease, then prophylactic treatment is carried out in early May.

In the spring, remontant raspberries are fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers, adding growth stimulants to them. The end of May is marked by preventive pest control. Any biological insecticide is suitable for these purposes.

It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes, remove weeds and water every week. Repaired raspberries do not tolerate soil compaction. Loosening should begin in early spring. This procedure is carried out up to 4-6 times per season. The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm, and the ground around the bushes - by 5-8 cm.

Summer

Summer care involves regular watering and loosening of the soil. Water the bush weekly. Tall varieties of remontant raspberries must be tied up during this period. For these purposes, you can use the trellis method, or you can use the peg method.

In the first case, pillars are installed along the planting (approximately every 3 m) and a wire is pulled between them at different levels in two or three rows (at a height of 70, 120 and 180 cm), to which raspberry shoots are tied. If the plantings are single, then separate pegs are used for the garter, which are driven into the ground near each bush.

In the summer, the fruits of the remontant raspberry ripen. Treatment with pesticides from pests and diseases is prohibited - the berries will absorb toxic substances. Intense solar radiation is also harmful for berries.Therefore, during the period of active sun, it is advisable to cover the bushes with a special net.

In autumn

Repaired raspberries are known to bear fruit before the first frost. Autumn care consists in preparing the plant for the winter period. After harvesting, shoots that have borne fruit in the current season are pruned at ground level. In the first year after planting, stems with a height of 20-25 cm are left. Full pruning is carried out only by the second year.

Next, the raspberries are cleaned from plant residues and mulch. It is advisable to burn them, because they may contain pests or pathogens. After that, raspberries are watered for winter. In late autumn, the last loosening and digging of the soil is carried out, after which the soil is mulched with rotted manure or humus (layer thickness - 10 cm).

As a rule, remontant varieties are frost-resistant, and they do not need shelter for the winter. But if severe frosts are coming, then the raspberry tree should be covered with a layer of hay or straw. Uncut bushes must be tied up, bent to the ground and covered with dry foliage.

Care procedures

Watering

Repaired raspberries need regular watering. It is necessary to moisten the soil every week. During dry periods, raspberries are watered more often. The ground under the bushes should always be slightly damp.

Watering is especially important before flowering, during active foliage growth and during the ripening period of berries. The soil should be moistened to a depth of 25-35 cm. Before the winter period, the soil is saturated with moisture, making abundant watering.

The moisture level of the soil should be closely monitored. An excess of moisture affects remontant raspberries even more than a lack of it. Air does not flow to the roots through wet soil, the development of the plant slows down. Shrubs are not watered with cold water. First, it should be infused in the open air. If the raspberry tree is covered with mulch, then the amount of watering is significantly reduced.

Top dressing

Cultivation of remontant raspberries is not complete without top dressing. Due to the abundant fruiting, remontant varieties use a large amount of nutrients, which are spent on the growth of the shrub and the formation of the crop.

High-quality top dressing of the soil before planting should be enough for three years. From the third year, it is already necessary to apply fertilizers.

Raspberries respond well to organics. At the beginning of the growing season, mullein is introduced into the soil, mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10. Poultry droppings diluted 1:20 in water can be used instead. Organic fertilizers are applied 2-3 times per season. Per square meter of land, 3 to 5 liters of liquid mixture is required. Such dressings will saturate the soil with the necessary components for the development of raspberries.

The plant also needs mineral supplements. In particular, remontant raspberries need potash fertilizers. Without potassium, the leaves become smaller, the edges turn brown, the tissues around the veins die off. The plant also needs phosphorus. Without this element, the stems acquire a purple hue, become lethargic and may even die off.

The lack of potassium is replenished with potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate. It is important that there is no chlorine in potash fertilizers. You can fill the lack of phosphorus with superphosphate. For each square meter of soil, it is recommended to add 50-70 g of superphosphate, 20-40 g of potassium sulfate and about 30 g of urea. These substances can be replaced with one complete complex fertilizer (for example, Nitroammophos), which is applied in the spring (60-100 g per square meter).

Repaired raspberries are sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen-containing substances are introduced into the soil in early spring, because in the fall they can extend the growing season of the plant, preventing preparation for wintering. In the absence of mulch, it is advisable to scatter humus every two years under the bushes (5-6 kg per square meter).

Pruning

In the spring, they start sanitary pruning. The shrub is carefully examined.After hibernation, uncircumcised shoots may develop cracks or dry patches.

Such stems are pruned to the first healthy bud. The tops of viable shoots are not touched - pruning them can delay the ripening of fruits and harm the future harvest. These procedures are carried out exclusively during the period of swelling of the kidneys. During this period, it is easy to recognize healthy and damaged kidneys.

If the repair variety in your area gives a lot of root growth, then remove it without hesitation. Only 10-15 shoots are left per square meter, of which one half are replacement shoots, and the other is two-year-old fruiting stems.

At the end of the fruiting period, all shoots of remontant raspberries are cut at ground level (only 3 cm above the surface are left). These varieties are vigorous. Next year the raspberries will grow back, yielding the same harvest. This procedure will protect the plant from diseases and pests in the winter. There is also another approach.

Only the tops of the stems are cut off. This allows you to stretch the fruiting period in the next season, because the berries will ripen not only on annual, but also on two-year shoots.

Reproduction

Root offspring

Reproduction of remontant raspberries using root suckers is not always possible, because many varieties practically do not form root shoots. The method consists in digging out the root processes and transplanting them to another place.

The largest amount of material for propagation is given by bushes at the age of 4-5 years. When the processes have reached a height of 7-10 cm, they are dug up and planted. They are shaded from the sun and watered regularly. After two weeks, the offspring take root, they no longer need protection from the sun. By the fall, they get good seedlings, which are planted in a permanent place.

Root cuttings

After the autumn harvest, they dig out the root of the plant, choose a root with a diameter of at least 2 cm and divide it into pieces 10-12 cm long.They are planted on a separate bed, the depth of the holes should be from 6 to 8 cm.In the spring they will sprout, which regularly watered, mulched and fed. And by autumn they will be ready for transplantation to a permanent place.

Green cuttings

Green cuttings are harvested in late spring. For these purposes, annual stems are suitable, which have separated from the mother bush with a small root. They are dug up, then cut off at a height of 4-5 cm (the shoot should have a leaf rosette) and planted in a greenhouse (in a mixture of river sand and peat).

The stalk is intensively watered, fed and protected from diseases, after successful rooting, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. You can also dip the cuttings into a growth promoter solution. This will increase the survival rate. After successful rooting, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Which remontant raspberry variety should you choose?

Today there are a large number of varieties of remontant raspberries. Because of this, the choice is somewhat difficult.

Here's a quick reference to help the gardener:

• early varieties: Hercules, Eurasia, Diamond;
• late varieties: Heritage, Zyugana, Erica;
• large-fruited varieties: Cap of Monomakh, Golden Autumn, Bryansk Divo;
• varieties with the best taste of berries: Apricot, Orange Miracle, Firebird;
• high-yield varieties: Atlant, Eurasia, Indian Summer.

And this is just a small list of varieties of remontant raspberries. Everyone can choose a variety for themselves, depending on individual preferences. When choosing raspberries, also pay attention to the timing of fruiting and the preferred growing region. Have a good harvest!

Planting and caring for raspberries outdoors

When planting raspberries in the country, it is important to choose a good variety, choose the right place for planting and follow the rules for caring for the crop. Taking into account the characteristics of the plant and the factors necessary for good development, you can grow an excellent harvest.

Raspberry varieties and their differences

Every year, breeders bring out new varieties that are more resistant to diseases, pests and weather conditions. They differ in terms of ripening, shape and color of berries, as well as their size.

Repaired raspberry variety Apricot

Raspberry varieties are divided into three categories according to their distinctive features:

• Traditional strains adapt and grow in almost any environment. They are not demanding on the soil, they tolerate low temperatures, they quickly multiply by root shoots. The berries of these varieties are small, and the overall harvest is not rich. These include Meteor, Volnitsa, Kirzhach;
• Large-fruited - giving record yields from a bush of large (4-12 g, in some cases up to 20 g) berries. Taste qualities of berries of large-fruited varieties of raspberries are at their best. The shoots branch well, which increases the yield. The best large-fruited varieties: Ruby Giant, Izobilnaya, Patricia;
• Repaired - varieties that bear fruit before frost, giving two harvests per season. Remontant raspberries can bear fruit on one-year-old and two-year-old shoots, which makes it different from other species. Among the representatives of this species, one can distinguish the varieties Aprikosovaya, Atlant, Bryanskoe Divo.

Planting and caring for regular and remontant raspberries are similar. A feature of their cultivation is the way of pruning the bushes.

Site selection and soil preparation for raspberries

The site for planting raspberries should be well-lit and protected from the wind. The most successful planting of seedlings along the fence or wall of the house on the south side. In this case, the bushes will receive enough light in the summer, the fences will protect the bushes from the wind, and in the winter they will trap the snow.

Choosing the perfect place to grow raspberries

If the site is located on a slope, it is worth taking the middle part of it under the raspberries, since in the lowland the bushes can freeze out in winter, or you will have to deal with waterlogging of the soil in spring, during melt water.

Crop rotation rules for raspberries

• Precursors such as tomatoes, potatoes, and strawberries are undesirable for raspberries. It is also better to avoid the proximity of these crops with raspberries.
• The root secretions of raspberries help protect apple trees and pears from a fungal disease - scab, and an apple tree can save raspberries - from gray rot.
• You can avoid the growth of raspberries by limiting the planting to sorrel. Two to three rows of casing along the contour will increase the acidity of the soil, and the roots will not grow in that direction.
• Berry bushes with proper soil preparation can grow for 10-15 years in one place.

Soil preparation

Raspberries love fertile, light and well-drained soils. To grow it on sandy and peaty soils, it is necessary to annually apply humus and compost to stimulate the activity of microorganisms.

Heavy clay soils are not suitable for growing raspberries as the roots will rot. The acidity of the soil under the raspberry tree should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Preparing the soil for the raspberry tree

The soil for the raspberry tree is prepared in advance, digging deeply and applying organic and mineral fertilizers. With an autumn planting - not less than a month, with a spring planting - from autumn. From fertilizers, manure or humus is introduced, urea or ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt are added.

Planting raspberries in open ground

Possible spring planting in late March - early April for the Moscow region. It is carried out as early as possible, before the start of sap flow.

Advice

The best time to plant a raspberry tree in central Russia is autumn (late September - mid-October). Raspberries planted during this period will have time to take root by frost, which will help it to winter well in the future.

If it was possible to acquire the desired raspberry seedlings only in late autumn, they are buried in a temporary trench, and transplanted to a permanent place in early spring.

Planting raspberry seedlings in spring

Annual, well-ripened shoots are used as planting material.Reproduction is also possible by root layers, which are laid out in parts in trenches or holes.

Ways to book a raspberry tree

There are several ways to book a raspberry tree:

• Belt - planting of seedlings is carried out in trenches, observing the distance between the rows of 1.5-2 m, the distance in a row is 30-50 cm. A two-line planting in trenches with a distance between the lines of 30 cm is possible. Wire or twine is pulled along the entire length of the row, to with which future bushes will be tied. This method is considered more successful for planting.
• Shrub - when seedlings are planted in separate holes, 40x50x50 cm in size.

Bush method of growing raspberries

• Stamp - you can read about this method in our other article.

Raspberry planting technology

When planting raspberries, it is worth following some rules so that the seedlings begin to bear fruit as early as possible:

• If fertilizers were not applied during the digging of the site, they are applied directly into the trenches or holes, mixing with the ground in order to exclude direct contact of the roots with them.
• Trenches and holes are poured abundantly before planting with water, at least 2.5 liters each.
• Before planting, the roots of seedlings are dipped in a clay mash.
• Deepen the seedlings 2-3 cm below the root collar. After complete post-planting shrinkage of the earth, the neck will come out, and the bush will develop normally.
• The planted seedlings are covered with loose soil, which is lightly tamped, after which the seedlings are watered again.
• The planted raspberry tree is mulched with peat or humus. With the arrival of spring, mulch is embedded in the ground.

Growing and caring for a raspberry tree in the garden

Raspberry care consists in timely watering, weeding, feeding and pruning of bushes.

Watering and feeding raspberries in the open field

Raspberries experience the greatest need for watering in the spring at the beginning of the growing season, and in the summer - during the development and ripening of fruits. They are carried out 2 times a month abundantly (20-30 l / m²). Frequent, but scanty watering will not be beneficial, since the main part of raspberry roots lies at a depth of 40-50 cm. The last watering is carried out in October - trenches or holes are poured for pre-winter moisture charging of the bushes.

After each watering, the soil in the raspberry bush is loosened to provide air access to the roots, and weeds are removed as necessary. Mulch made from straw, peat or humus can help reduce the frequency of weeding and save raspberries from unexpected drought.

Raspberries respond well to fertilization, especially in the first year of planting. It is better to use organic matter - solutions of mullein or bird droppings.

Fertilizer from mullein for raspberries

Planting is fed 2-3 times a season. In the future, summer dressing can be completely replaced by generous autumn "dressing" of the soil with minerals and organic fertilizers

Raspberry garter

In order for garden raspberries to grow and develop well, planting and care in the open field must include a garter to the supports. Its bushes are quite high and powerful, therefore, the support must be reliable. When bush planting, the fan-shaped method of garter is often used, when stakes are driven in between the bushes. Shoots from different bushes, from low to high, are tied to the stakes.

Garter raspberry to trellis

A raspberry tree planted in trenches requires a trellis garter. The trellis is pulled over the pillars installed along the edges of the row on both sides of the bushes. As the seedlings grow, the rows of trellis are gradually added.

Protection of raspberries from diseases and pests

Whatever variety your raspberries grow, planting care necessarily includes measures to combat diseases and pests.

The main parasites of raspberries:

• raspberry beetle;
• stem fly;
• spider mite.

Advice

As a prophylaxis against pests of raspberries, they use deep digging of the soil in the fall, destruction of plant residues, and covering the bushes in spring with agrofibre.

Processing raspberry ovaries from a raspberry beetle

Fungal diseases of raspberry:

• purple or brown spotting;
• brown trunk ulcers - anthracnose;
• white spot.

Against fungal diseases, prophylactic spraying of bushes in the spring with solutions of nitrophene and Bordeaux liquid is used.

• In case of viral diseases (root cancer, mosaic, curliness), the affected bushes will have to be uprooted and burned.

Seasonal outdoor pruning of raspberries

A good raspberry harvest cannot be achieved without regular and correct pruning of the bushes. This is due to the life cycle of the shoots. It takes two years, after which the shoots die off, interfere with young branches, become carriers of diseases and pests.

Pruning raspberries in spring

Spring pruning is needed to normalize shoots and stimulate their growth. They spend it as early as possible when the snow melts. Frozen, broken and weak shoots are cut as close to the ground as possible, trying not to leave stumps. 12-16 strong shoots are left per running meter of raspberry, the tops of which are also shortened to the first strong bud.

Important!

All plant waste after pruning must be removed from the site and destroyed.

The next pruning is carried out in the summer, removing all fertile branches to the base. It is not worth delaying with this procedure, since the fruit branches of this year have already completed their life cycle and only inhibit the growth of new shoots.

Pruning raspberries in summer to the ground

In autumn, shoots with signs of disease, broken by the wind or technology, are removed in the raspberry tree. You also need to cut out young shoots that did not have time to gain strength over the summer (stem diameter up to 10 mm). You cannot leave the leaves on the branches, they must be removed. When the raspberry is removed, the shoots are tied and bent to the ground. This will help them survive the winter without loss.

Bending raspberries to the ground for the winter

Advice

With autumn pruning, 30-35 shoots are left in the raspberry plant per running meter. This amount allows you to make a stock that will replenish frozen and broken shoots in the spring.

Raspberry overgrowth problem

The growth pattern of raspberries is aggressive. Growing up, it can occupy large areas, forming a distant growth. You need to get rid of it as quickly as possible for several reasons:

• Distant seedlings take a lot of strength and energy from the mother bush;
• Shoots of root suckers are able to clog a large area of ​​nearby areas in a short time.

Support fence to limit the growth of raspberries

Unplanned raspberry growth can be avoided by using underground barriers at the border of the raspberry tree. To do this, pieces of slate or boards are driven into the ground to a depth of 40-50 cm. They should rise 10-15 cm above the soil surface. If the growth still breaks through the barrier, it is cut out at the root immediately.

Advice

All shoots that are more than 20 cm away from the mother bush must be cut out. You cannot pull the roots out of the ground, you can injure neighboring bushes.

Pruning remontant raspberries

Particular attention should be paid to pruning remontant raspberries. When growing it for harvesting one crop, in the fall all shoots are cut out, while the hemp does not need to be left. In the spring, young shoots will grow, which will yield a harvest at the end of the season.

For two harvests - pruning remontant is carried out in the same way as for regular raspberries. In this case, two-year shoots will give a summer harvest, and annual ones - in the fall.

Outcome

With the right approach to care, growing raspberries in the country does not cause any particular problems. Compliance with the timing of planting and pruning, fertilizing and ensuring timely watering is the key to a good harvest of large and sweet berries.

Thanks to the tasty and valuable fruit, raspberries are grown in private plots. This shrub with long, slender stems grows up to 2 meters. The stems are saturated with green leaves with a whitish stem. Raspberry fruits are concentrated on tassels, which are located separately from the leaves, on the stalk. Raspberry berries are red, but there are also yellow or dark purple fruits.The article will consider remontant raspberries, planting and caring for which are not difficult for gardeners.

Repaired raspberry "Bryansk marvel"

Properties of raspberries, benefits for the body

Raspberries are a fragrant bush prized for their health benefits. The fruits contain organic acids (ascorbic, citric, malic and salicylic), pectin, anthocyanins, mucous compounds and useful fibers. The berry contains vitamins - C, E, K, PP and group B, a large amount of minerals - potassium, magnesium, calcium and iron.

Raspberries are also valuable in leaves containing tannins, flavonoids, organic acids and mineral salts, which have antibacterial, astringent and anti-inflammatory effects. Leaves and berries are antipyretic.

Raspberry berries, due to the content of ellagic acid, have:

• antibacterial action;
• analgesic effect;
• soothe;
• lower blood pressure;
• help in the treatment of colds;
• useful for inflammation of the mouth, pharynx and larynx.

Raspberries are included in the diet for weight loss - they are involved in the processes of digestion and cleansing the body of toxins. They have antioxidant properties - this helps to remove free radicals from the body.

Growing raspberries is a simple process, so every gardener should keep them in their garden.

Delicious raspberries are picked from the bush. Eat raw, make jams, jellies, juices, syrups or tinctures. Berries are added to ice cream, cakes, mousses, and meats (beef, pork, or poultry). Raspberry juice warms the body and is invaluable during autumn and winter evenings.

Raspberry serves as a component in cosmetics used for skin care, as it moisturizes, softens and tones. Raspberries regulate sebum production and act as an antiseptic, cleanse the skin by removing dead cells, relax and tone it up.

Growing raspberries: infographic

You can see the principles of growing raspberries in the schematic diagram below.

(click on the infographic to enlarge)

Soil and climate suitable for growing

Raspberries grow best in sunny areas. She loves fertile soil, rich in nutrients, but drained and slightly acidic, pH 5.5 - 6.5. The semi-shrub does not tolerate alkaline soils, it loves moisture in the ground, but not too wet areas, with a high level of groundwater.

Raspberries grow well on loose, sandy soils, as they have a shallow root system. Therefore, nutrients are absorbed along with moisture from the soil. The plant easily tolerates winter cold and temperature drops.

Reproduction, planting rules in spring and autumn

Raspberries are grown in the same location for several years, so proper preparation of the soil for cultivation is important. The area for saplings is thoroughly cleared of weeds, such as wheatgrass and bindweed. The soil is enriched with organic matter. It is recommended to measure the soil pH level using an acidometer, in case of negative results - to correct the acidity level by acidifying or de-acidifying the soil.

Raspberries are planted in spring or fall. The planting depth is not great, it is enough to dig a hole with a shovel 15-20 cm deep. After planting, you need to press (trample) the soil around the plant, and water abundantly. After that, cut off the stems with pruning shears, leaving a length of 30 cm. If the plants are planted in rows, the distance between them should be two meters. Plants between seedlings depend on the variety, ranging from 50 to 100 cm. See also the article: → "Planting raspberries in the spring."

Planting raspberries in open ground in spring

Raspberries are grown in a single-row method, for this they are huddled, covered with soil 15-30 cm high. This method of cultivation reduces the risk of root diseases. Raspberries are planted in the fall to create natural breeding conditions.

Gardeners Recommended Raspberry Varieties

Raspberries are classified into two types, which are defined by fruiting. The first one bears fruit twice a year, in summer and again in autumn. This is a remontant raspberry. The second type bears fruit once a year, pedicels on two-year-old shoots bear fruit only once a year, in June or July. Read also the article: → “Raspberries in your garden. Varieties of garden raspberries ".

Inflorescences, repeated on the shoots of annual plants, bear fruit twice a year, first of all in June or July, and then in September or October. Both types differ in the way they are pruned and cultivated. Varieties belonging to the type of one fruiting per year:

• weasel;
• benefit;
• beskid;
• falcon;
• canby;
• tilamine;
• coral;
• vyatyan;
• gleb.

The more common varieties grown by gardeners and farms include highly productive varieties:

• glade;
• woodland;
• temptation;
• brother-in-law.

Some farms grow varieties of an interesting variation - morning dew, with yellow fruit berries.

Caring for raspberry bushes in the garden

Are you planning to plant raspberries in your garden or balcony? Or are you already growing? Learn how to fertilize and care for raspberries.

Weeding and pruning raspberry bushes

If mulching was not used during cultivation, weeds and other unnecessary plants on the ridges are removed to obtain a crop. Weeds pull in nutrients. In addition to weeds, unripe raspberry sprouts are also removed, which draw only juice from young plants. In addition to weeds, crimson suckers are removed. Sucker shoots compete with full-fledged plants and lead to diseases of raspberry tubers.

These growing shoots inside the bushes can be removed by hand or cut with a sickle. They appear at a greater distance from the bush, they can be removed with a sickle or shovel. Spring pruning of plants and removal of young, undeveloped shoots is beneficial for raspberries, bushes bear fruit more extensively, and young shoots are less susceptible to diseases and pests.

Tip # 1. When mulching raspberries, agrotextiles are used, which reduce the growth of weeds, grass suckers, and retain moisture in the soil. Raspberry roots are distributed as expected in the topsoil.

Pruning in the first year after planting

After planting, each variety is worthy of respect and requires grooming. This applies to the first year of life. As a result, proper rooting of plants is maintained. Sections are made with a pruner, preferably on a sunny day, after cutting, you can put a special tool on the wound.

If we are dealing with raspberries of one fruiting, the fruits appear on the canes of the previous year, they are cut flush to the base of the stems. Weak and overly thickened bushes are cut off. A maximum of 10-12 strongest shoots are left on the bush.

Autumn pruning of remontant raspberries

Fruits appear twice during the season without forming shoots on the same shoots. In June or July, they appear at the base of the shoots, and in September or October at the ends of the shoots of annual plants. The tip after fruiting is cut off with a pruner. The next year, after the appearance of fruits in the summer, they appear at the base, and then after the end of fruiting, the shoots are exterminated flush with the ground.

The buds at the base of the shoot begin their activity in the spring of next year, creating new annual shoots. In addition, weak or too numerous stems are removed. More often, the cultivation of raspberries is reduced to obtaining fruits once a season, in September or October. The fruits are bigger and better. Read also the article: → "Pruning raspberries at different periods of its growth and development."

Recommendations for proper watering

Raspberries are a plant with high water requirements, especially during flowering and early ripening. Lack of water and nutrients during this time causes a number of disadvantages:

• the fruits are smaller and the yield is lower;
• berries contain few vitamins and nutrients;
• the benefits of minerals are reduced;
• poor product quality.

Tip # 2. If the soil is dry, provide regular watering of the shrubs. When watering remontant raspberries, do not wet the leaves and stems, as this increases the risk of developing fungal diseases.

Landing methods and their features

For fruiting remontant raspberries in the summer, a special place is organized for it so that bushes can be tied up. When growing annual varieties, you can do without special supports. Cultivation of remontant raspberries is carried out in various ways. The following options are possible:

• one-line method;
• two-line;
• double row Dutch.

For the first method, at the beginning and at the end of the row, supports are installed, which are connected with wire at a height of 120 cm and 180 cm.If necessary, an additional row of attachments is made at a height of 60-80 cm. Raspberry shoots are attached to a wire for one meter with 12 strong stems. With so many shoots, the height is reduced to 160-170 cm.

One-row method of planting raspberries

When growing raspberries in a two-row way, the distance between the rows is 50-60 cm. When growing in parallel, the plants are left 120 cm high on both sides of the row.

Dutch method. On both sides of the row, remontant raspberries are left 80 cm high at a distance of 80 cm from each other. On one side of the bed are the seedlings that are bearing fruit this year. On the other side, the shoots of this year are developing. They will bear fruit next year. In subsequent years, the fruits are harvested alternately.

Top dressing of remontant raspberries

Raspberries need a lot of nitrogen for proper growth and development. To replenish it, organic and mineral fertilizers are used. The applied fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the topsoil using a fork or shovel. The list of fertilizers used to feed remontant raspberries is presented in the table:

Organic fertilizers	Green manure	Mineral fertilizers
manure	lupine	one-component
dried manure	field peas	polysyllabic
granulated manure	legumes
compost	sunflower
	corn

Before using monosyllabic mineral fertilizers, the soil is tested for the exact content of nutrients of micro- and macroelements in the soil. When using polysyllabic fertilizers, choose those that do not contain chlorine, since raspberries are sensitive to chlorides. In the garden centers there are specially formulated fertilizers for berry bushes, in which the nutrients are balanced.

Diseases and pests of raspberries

Raspberries are exposed to diseases, fungal and viral, and are attacked by various pests. Many pest and disease problems stem from poor growing conditions. Proper cultivation and care is the key to healthy raspberry bushes, and, consequently, the number of fruits. All kinds of agents, natural or chemical, are used to control diseases or pests, always following the instructions on the labels.

Raspberry viral diseases

The most common diseases and pests of raspberries are shown in the table:

Diseases	Pests
gray rot	mite
dying off of shoots	leaf roll
white leaf spot	dung beetle
chlorosis	raspberry
powdery mildew	Fritillary
dwarfism

Harvesting and storage of berries

Raspberries are harvested at maturity, preferably immediately after reaching maturity. The berries are fully ripe when they are easily separated from the peduncle. In summer, remontant raspberries are harvested two or three times a week, in autumn, when the fruits ripen slowly, once or twice a week.

The berries are harvested in dry weather, wet fruits quickly rot. Raspberries are very unstable and not suitable for long-term storage. The berries are stored for no more than two days; for longer storage, the fruits are frozen.

Answers to topical questions of gardeners and gardeners about growing raspberries

Question number 1. Do you need to weed raspberries?

To get a good harvest, raspberries must be completely free of weeds.

Question number 2. How often are raspberries watered?

The soil around the raspberry bush should receive 5 cm of water per week.

Question number 3. Is bedding used when growing remontant raspberries?

Litter is used to reduce weed problems and to maintain high soil moisture levels. Chopped wood, bark and needles are mixed with the soil to a depth of 7.5 - 10 cm.

Question number 4. How to protect plants in natural ways?

Starting from the second year, sow oats between the rows of raspberries, immediately after harvest. Oats help strengthen raspberries during the winter by consuming excessive amounts of water and nutrients from the soil and reducing weed growth. Oats dry out at low winter temperatures, covering the soil, reducing its erosion in the spring.

Grass is sown between rows of plants at a distance of 30 cm from the raspberry bush. Otherwise, the grass will absorb moisture and nutrients. The cut grass prevents soil erosion and the emergence of weeds.

Question number 5. When is fertilizer applied for remontant raspberries?

Raspberries are fertilized every year, in early spring, in mid-April. It is best to divide the recommended compost dose in half, apply the first part in mid-April and the second after six weeks.

With timely feeding, raspberries grow more berries that ripen earlier.

Gardeners' mistakes when growing raspberries

Mistake # 1. Improper watering.

Gardeners water raspberries a little every day. This is a refreshing watering, only the top layer of the soil is moistened, without penetrating into the root zone. It is better to carry out rare but abundant watering before the root layer gets wet.

Mistake # 2. Non-compliance with the distance between the rows.

Raspberries thrive in the wild, but that doesn't mean they can be planted as desired. Observe the distance between rows 60-80 cm, between beds 100-180 cm.

Mistake number 3. Double cropping.

Novice gardeners use double pruning when growing remontant raspberries, which leads to lower yields. This pruning method is applicable to raspberry varieties that bear fruit once a year.

Recommendations for the reproduction of remontant raspberries

• In amateur conditions, raspberries are propagated by shoots. The young shoots are separated from the mother plant with a shovel. Young seedlings are taken only from healthy bushes.
• When growing remontant raspberries on an industrial scale, they are propagated by roots or cuttings. The roots are cut into pieces 10-15 cm long and placed in the ground to a depth of 5 cm. In the spring, young shoots will grow from dormant buds.
• For propagation by woody cuttings, raspberry stems are cut into pieces of 10-15 cm, they must have at least one well-formed bud (bud). The cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 5 cm, it is important that the bud remains above the soil surface.

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