Onion sets planting and care in the open field in autumn

Onions are one of the most popular vegetables. The variety of varieties allows you to use it all year round in fresh, boiled, fried, baked form. The cultivation of onions has several peculiarities, if observed, a high yield is obtained.

General description and varieties

Various types of onions allow you to grow a root crop in almost any climatic conditions. The crop can be harvested with green mass (feather) or bulbs (turnip). An onion set grows from the seeds, and a large onion (uterus) grows from the latter. The shape, color, weight of marketable turnips depend on the variety.

It is a herbaceous crop with a pungent odor and a pipe-like stem. Onion-turnip is used for cooking and in folk medicine. Has a rounded, oblong or irregular, drop-shaped shape. The color of the surface scales depends on the variety, as does the intensity of the green color of the leaves. The seeds ripen in the umbellate arrow.

Onion varieties are divided into early (Baron, Rosanna), mid-season (Alvina, Globus) and late (Senator, Snowball). By taste - sweet (salad), semi-sharp, spicy.

The onion head has a characteristic bitterness due to the content of essential oils. At the same time, salad varieties contain less sugar than spicy ones, and the sweet taste is due to the lower content of esters.

Growing methods

Each variety has its own characteristics. Growing onions from seeds in one season is possible only in the south from early maturing species. In other regions, you first need to sow seeds (nigella) to get seed. This can be done before winter, so as not to prepare the seed in the spring, to accelerate the growth of the plant, and to reduce the risk of developing diseases.

Onions planted in autumn can be grown for early greens. Sowing up to 1 cm should be used as seed material. Plants from 1 to 3 cm should be planted in spring when the soil warms up. Onion sets are grown on a large onion. The onion itself is propagated by nigella, ripening from planted large turnips.

Features of agricultural technology

Planting onions on the head is made from the set. The variety of species and varieties allows you to grow the plant everywhere. Agricultural engineering algorithm:

1. First, you need to grow onion sets from seeds.
2. In the second year from planting material - marketable, used for food.
3. On the third, plant large bulbs to get seeds.

How to plant onion sets in a particular area depends on the climatic conditions. In cold regions with short summers, growing seedlings, planting in greenhouses and greenhouses will help.The culture needs a neutral, loose, fertile soil. Watering is moderate, without periods of drought or waterlogging.

Soil requirements

For the successful cultivation of onions in the open field, it must be borne in mind that it does not tolerate acidic, clay, sandy, heavy, dense soils. Instead of them, loamy, peaty, chernozem are preferred. It should not be grown in areas with nearby groundwater, excessive humidity and lack of fresh air will lead to root rot, the development of fungal diseases.

Before planting onions on the head in the spring, you need to prepare the ground in the fall. For acidic soils, liming is applied to a pH of 6-6.5. This procedure should be carried out in advance or replaced with the addition of dolomite flour or ash. It is important to remove all plant residues from previous plantings, add organic (humus) and mineral (phosphorus-potassium) dressings over the entire surface of future beds. Then dig it to a depth of 25 cm.

Compliance with crop rotation

When growing onions for a turnip from a set, it should be borne in mind that it is not recommended to return the vegetable to the same place for at least 3-4 years. The exception is perennial varieties that do not need to be replanted until 5 years or until the yield begins to decline. It is advisable to divide in space green, onions into turnips or seeds, perennial. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of developing disease or pest infestation.

The best predecessors of onions are cabbage, tomatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, potatoes, legumes, and some herbs. You can plant anything in the neighborhood except legumes. Alternating with rows of carrots will scare off onion and carrot flies. Garden beds after cucumbers, peppers, garlic, carrots are not suitable for the culture.

When to plant onion sets outdoors?

It is necessary for the soil to warm up to 10-12 ° C. It is able to withstand small frosts, but premature shooting may begin. There are no specific dates for planting seedlings, the established air temperature (at least 5 ° C) and the soil will tell you when you can plant onions. Young seedlings can withstand temperatures as low as -3 ° C, but mature plants stop growing.

The timing of planting onions depends on the variety and place of cultivation (climatic features). In the Moscow region, the Moscow region and in Belarus, sevok can be planted in open ground in late April - early May. It is advisable to postpone planting in the Urals until mid-May, and in Siberia - closer to the end of May. In cold regions, you can pre-grow in greenhouses, greenhouses or use early maturing varieties.

Preparatory work

The technology of growing onion involves the prevention of diseases and diseases, preliminary preparation of the soil and seed. It is important to observe crop rotation. It is correct to plant onions in sunny places where there is no threat of flooding.

Growing a turnip from seedlings gives good yields on nutritious soils. Chernozem is far from everywhere, so it is advisable to apply fertilizers in the fall after harvesting the previous crop. This will allow for winter sowing for greenery and planting onions on turnips in early spring.

It is especially important to pre-lime the soil if necessary, since this cannot be done immediately before growing the crop.

Garden bed preparation

In the fall, you should dig up the soil cleaned from the remnants of vegetation together with fertilizers. In this case, it is not necessary to break large lumps of earth - in winter they will freeze well, pathogens will die.

Before planting seedlings in the spring, the soil can be dug up again or simply leveled and loosened by first adding compost or humus with peat. You can disinfect with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. L. Per 10 l of water) with a temperature of about 50 ° C in a ratio of 1 l per 1 m². It is advisable not to use fresh manure, it can cause diseases, bring in weed seeds. Also, you should be careful with organic matter when growing root crops, and not greens.

If the soil has not yet warmed up to the desired temperature, you can cover it with a film in 2-3 days. The width of the beds is no more than 100 cm, the height is up to 15 cm. The culture loves space, so it is undesirable to plant too often. Onions can be grown in grooves, holes or by the Chinese method - on the ridge.

Preparation of planting material

Before planting, sort the material, remove dried, damaged, diseased bulbs. Then calibrate so that larger specimens can be planted separately as they will be the first to harvest. Remove the yellow, coarse scales, and carefully trim the tail, taking care not to damage the growth neck.

Warm up the planting material for 8-10 days at 20-25 ° C, then soak in water at 40-45 ° C for 8-10 hours. This procedure is needed in order to start the development process, to avoid early shooting. Additionally, it can be kept in a solution of potassium permanganate or complex fertilizers, treated with a growth activator.

Preliminary preparation of onion sets for planting accelerates the emergence of seedlings, shortens the growing season. This is especially important when growing in northern regions, in greenhouses and hotbeds. Treatment with potassium permanganate or hot water will save crops from the development of diseases.

Growing seedlings from seeds

The method is used to obtain planting material for the next year. It is important to know how to properly grow onion sets from seeds, because the yield depends on this. Nigella should be last year, with long-term storage, germination decreases sharply.

A few days before sowing, soak the seeds for 20 minutes in water with a temperature of up to 50 ° C, then hold for 2-3 minutes under a cold running water. For the prevention of fungal diseases, it is kept for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide (Ridomil, Quadris, Fundazol). You can soak it for 3 hours in a growth activator (Ecopin), then leave it in a damp cloth for several days until 3-5% of the seeds hatch, dry it.

The prepared seed material can be planted in dry soil, otherwise, water the area with hot water, form grooves and only then sow. Between the rows there should be 25-30 cm, the depth of the furrow - about 2 cm, between the seeds - 1.5-2 cm. Top it up with loose earth or dry humus, compact a little, water, mulch.

You can also grow onion sets in greenhouses. To do this, cover the sown seeds with a film on the frame, which will significantly accelerate growth and protect against possible frost.

The first shoots appear in 8 days. Watering should be moderate, during drought 1-2 times a week. When forming a bulb, you do not need to water the beds. Planting should be protected from excessive moisture, weeds should be removed in a timely manner. If the topsoil is too dense, loosen a little. It is necessary to look after the sevk, protect it from diseases and pests, and periodically mulch the soil.

How long the onion will grow depends on when it was sown. Some varieties can be planted before winter. In greenhouses, you can sow as soon as the snow melts, and the earth warms up a little. Harvesting should be done when the feathers turn yellow, the bulbs are tilted towards the garden in late July - early August.

How to plant onion sets?

To get a good harvest, you must first prepare the seed and soil. It is customary to plant onions in the spring in open ground, when the ground warms up to a depth of 8-10 cm. Make furrows in the beds, leaving 40 cm between rows. If the ground is dry, pour warm, settled water. For disinfection, you can pour boiling water into the furrows.

Correctly plant the seedlings in open ground, depending on the caliber of the bulbs, at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. The value depends on how deep the planting material is to be embedded; a tail should remain above the surface.

It is important to follow the planting scheme so that air circulates between the plants, excess moisture does not accumulate, there is enough space and nutrients for the development of the turnip.You can plant smaller bulbs a couple of weeks earlier than large ones so that the crop ripens at the same time.

How to care for onions after planting?

Culture needs to be cared for properly. Agrotechnics of growing onion involves loosening, watering, weeding, feeding. It is important to promptly remove plants damaged by diseases or pests. It is forbidden to huddle the culture.

You need to plant the onion on the head in the spring in the warmed up soil. Winter planting is used to obtain early greenery. Take care of onions - throughout the growing season. Do not allow the soil to dry out or the growth of weeds.

Watering

Proper care of onions outdoors requires moderate soil moisture. It is necessary to water early in the morning, and not in the evening, so as not to create favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases. Onions planted in spring should be watered 1-2 times a week.

At the beginning of July, the amount of water should be reduced, and by the end it should be completely stopped. This is done so that the bulbs dry out, form a dense husk before harvesting, and gain weight. The exception is hot, dry weather, in which the crop will begin to wilt. But in this case, abundant watering is not needed.

Top dressing

Growing and caring for onions in the open field involves the introduction of fertilizers if necessary. Autumn and spring soil preparation may not be enough, then the first fertilizing should be done 2 weeks after planting. You can sprinkle with a solution of mullein, dry manure or bird droppings.

Onions per head should be grown in nutritious soil. Nitrogen is needed in the first phase of the growing season, potassium - during the formation of bulbs, phosphorus - at the entire stage of growing. Organic feeding may be needed 1 more time after the first, but this is not necessary.

Loosening

To care for onions on a turnip, it is important to loosen the ground, avoiding the formation of a dense crust on the surface. Because of it, the plant may not have enough moisture on dry days, and with heavy rainfall, it will not be able to quickly evaporate. High humidity and lack of fresh air are favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases. Weeds should be removed during loosening.

Growing a turnip onion has some secrets, for example, there is a way to grow a bulb faster after formation - to free the upper part a little from the ground. It also promotes the growth of larger specimens.

Diseases and pests

Onion care involves monitoring the condition of plants, changing the color of feathers, and wilting. Any deterioration in appearance may indicate disease or pest damage. Compliance with agrotechnical measures for planting and caring for onions in the open field is a prevention, but does not always help.

The culture is susceptible to the following diseases:

• Peronosporosis (downy mildew) is manifested by pale spots on the feathers of onions with a visible gray-purple bloom. The leaves turn yellow and dry up, the arrows break, the seed crop disappears. The bulbs cannot develop.
• Cervical rot is a fungal disease that manifests itself 1-2 months after collecting the turnip. The bulb becomes watery, yellow-pink, with an unpleasant odor, then dries up from the inside, leaving only scales.
• Green mold rot appears during storage. The outer scales and bottom are covered with brown watery spots with a white, green or bluish-green bloom.
• Rust becomes noticeable by small orange, then red-yellow, black warts on the feathers. The leaves dry up, the turnip becomes smaller.
• Fusarium appears in the heat. Symptoms are yellowing of the tips of the leaves, rot of the bottom.

When grown from seedlings in the open field, onions can infest pests:

• The onion moth damages the leaves from the tops. At the same time, they turn yellow, dry out. Caterpillars eat the rudiments of flowers in unopened inflorescences, gnaw at the pedicels.
• Onion flies and hoverflies lead to wilting, yellowing, drying of leaves and rotting of bulbs.
• Stem nematode overwinters in bulbs, leaves, scales, seeds. Because of her, seedlings grow slowly, the first leaf can be swollen and curved. Gray spots appear on the turnip, the inner scales are unevenly thickened, soft.
• Lurker larvae gnaw whitish passages in onion leaves. At the end of July, the first beetles appear from the soil.
• The root mite colonizes diseased plants. The symptom of the pest is brownish dust on the outer scales, the bottom falls off, the roots do not grow.

Root mite

Alternative methods or biological products can be used to treat infected plants. It is undesirable to use chemical agents, especially for onions grown for green mass. For a turnip, such preparations can be used no later than a month before harvesting.

Harvesting and storage

When the onion ripens, it must be removed from the beds in time. The collection should be carried out in dry weather. 2-3 weeks before that, remove watering, fertilizing, loosening. The bulbs do not ripen at the same time, but they are harvested when the leaves of most plants fall, otherwise growth may resume after 8-10 days, and the turnip will become unsuitable for long-term storage.

It is necessary to pull out by the roots, carefully clean the ground, leave to dry in the beds, if weather conditions permit. It can be removed to a warm room for 10 days until the leaves are completely dry. Better to dry under the sun to disinfect the crop.

Then keep for 2-3 weeks under a canopy with good air circulation. Overdrying is also undesirable, the upper scales may fall off, the onion will be poorly stored. Cut dry leaves at a height of 3-5 cm from the neck, calibrate, break off and slightly burn the roots.

Bulbs can be stored in boxes, baskets, nets, cloth bags in a dry room at a temperature of 0-1 ° C. Can be braided and hung along the wall. The main thing is that there is no thick layer, otherwise the turnip will start to deteriorate. During storage, the bulbs need to be sorted out to identify germinated or diseased specimens.

How to increase productivity in the country

The harvest can be bad for a variety of reasons that

do not depend on the gardener:

• weather;
• depleted soil;
• poor quality seeds;
• lack of plant nutrition.

Despite these factors, you can still get an excellent harvest even under these conditions! Our readers successfully use a method that helps

increase productivity on your site several times!

…

Onions are popular vegetable crops. It is added to salads, soups, meat and fish dishes. Therefore, in almost every summer cottage and personal plot you can see beds with plantings this vegetable. But to get a good harvest, you need to know how to properly plant and care for onions.

Planting onions

The crop can be grown in three ways:

1. From seeds in one year... This method of growing vegetables is suitable for areas with a warm climate.
2. From seed in two years... In a two-year culture, the plant is grown in areas with short summers.
3. Seedling method... This method is suitable for sweet and semi-spicy varieties of vegetables.

But before you start planting onions in open ground, you should prepare a site for it. The beds are recommended to be made in organic-rich, dry, sunny, open areas with neutral soil. If the soil is acidic, then it is preliminarily lime.

You can plant onions after tomatoes, green manure, peas, beans, cabbage crops, potatoes. After other types of onions, cucumbers, carrots and garlic, onions can be planted only after three years.

When planting in spring seed soil for planting is prepared in the fall:

1. Rotted manure or humus is added to the soil, and the bed is dug to a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters.It is not recommended to add fresh manure, otherwise only greens will grow.
2. The acidic soil is mixed with limestone, ground chalk, wood ash or dolomite flour.
3. In the spring, before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil - potassium chloride, urea, superphosphate.

Growing onions from seeds

Semi-sweet and sweet varieties in warm climates can be grown from seeds in one year. The planting material is pre-processed, for which the seeds are placed in gauze, moistened and kept for swelling during the day.

A bed prepared for planting seeds is watered copper sulfate solution (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon), after which seeds are placed into it to a depth of one and a half centimeters. The distance between the rows should be about thirteen centimeters, and between the seeds - one and a half centimeters. Crops are watered with water from a watering can with a shower head and covered with foil.

Crop care consists in timely moistening of the soil and daily airing of the plantings. When the seedlings appear, the shelter is removed. Seedlings must be thinned out so that there is a distance of two to three centimeters between the plants. The plantings are watered, and the soil around them is mulched with humus. This mulch will feed the plants, retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Once again, the seedlings must be thinned out three weeks after germination. The distance between them should be at least six to eight centimeters.

Growing seedlings

In early or mid-April, pre-treated onion seeds are sown thickly in soil-filled seedbeds. The planting material is placed at a depth of one centimeter, moisten from a spray bottle and cover with foil. After the shoots appear, the shelter is removed. Seedling care consists only in timely soil moisture.

In open ground, seedlings are planted at the age of fifty to sixty days. Before planting in the garden, the roots on the onions are recommended to be shortened by one third of the length.

Planting sevka

In regions with a short summer, in the first year, onion sets are grown on the beds, which are stored at home in winter and planted in the next spring on the beds for growing. Before planting, the onions must be sorted out, warmed up for seven days in the sun and held for ten minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Sevok is planted in the beds in May according to the following scheme:

1. The distance between the rows should be thirty centimeters.
2. The distance between the onions is from eight to ten centimeters.
3. Sevok should be planted to a depth of five centimeters.

When growing sets in the fall, you can get turnips, and in the summer - greens. To do this, the distance between plantings is five centimeters. During the summer, the onions are torn out through one and used as greenery.

Planting onions in the fall

To get the harvest already in July, the seed should be planted in the beds from the fifth to the twentieth of October. Before winter, only cold-resistant vegetable varieties are planted, which include variety Stuttgarten, Strigunovsky, Danilovksky and Arzamas varieties.

A bed for winter plantings should be done in sunny, elevated areas. Snow should melt on them before everyone else and water should not stagnate.

The soil for planting the sevka should be still warm. However, before frost, onions should not be planted, since the sevok can dry out.

The planting material is pre-sorted out and warmed up. Sevok is placed in the ground to a depth of five centimeters, in seven centimeters increments. The distance between the rows is about fifteen centimeters. The beds are covered with straw or spruce branches. As soon as the snow begins to melt in the spring, the shelter is removed.

Autumn planting sevka has its advantages:

1. After harvesting, another crop can be planted on the garden bed.
2. The onion fly is not afraid of autumn plantings, since they have time to get stronger by its appearance.
3. At home, the sevok dries quickly and is difficult to preserve until spring.

Onion care

When growing onions in open ground, it should be provided with timely watering, dressing and treatments from pests and diseases.

Onions should be watered once a week, using five to ten liters of water per square meter of planting. However, if it rains regularly in summer, then watering may not be necessary. Otherwise, in waterlogged soil, the onions will begin to rot. Learn about the condition of the soil can be green. If it becomes pale, then there is an excess of moisture in the soil. The bluish-white feathers indicate that the soil is dry. In July, the bulbs begin to ripen and watering is reduced.

When growing onions during the season, three additional fertilizing with organic fertilizers is carried out. You can use a solution of mullein, urea or bird droppings for this (for 10 liters of water - one glass of organic matter). One square meter of the garden bed is watered with three liters of solution. The first feeding is carried out after the greens appear. After two weeks, the plantings are fertilized a second time. The third time the plants are fed when the bulbs are about the size of a walnut.

When the greens of the onions reach a size of about fifteen centimeters, it is recommended to treat the plants with copper sulfate, which is good protection against many fungal diseases... To do this, the feathers are sprayed with a solution prepared from ten liters of water and a teaspoon of the drug.

Harvesting and storing onions

From about mid-August, when the bulbs grow to the required volume, the feathers lodge and new leaves stop forming, you can start harvesting. This should be done in warm, dry weather. If you skip the onion harvesting time, then it may start to grow again... These vegetables are not stored for a long time.

The collected bulbs are evenly laid out on the garden bed. When the onions are dry, they are freed from the ground and additionally dried in a dry room or in the sun. Dried vegetables should be examined carefully. Bulbs left without husks and spoiled are not suitable for long-term storage. Before you put vegetables in storage, you need to cut off the leaves. Only a neck about six centimeters long should remain. To increase the shelf life of the bulbs, the roots are cauterized.

It is recommended to store onion heads in a dry room with an air temperature slightly above 0 degrees. Since air must flow to the bulbs, they are stacked in stockings, baskets, nets or boxes. During storage, vegetables are regularly sorted out, removing bulbs that have begun to grow or rot.

You can store the crop in the apartment. In this case, you do not need to cut dry leaves on the plant. The container with vegetables is placed away from the batteries. The optimum air temperature should be from +18 to +20 degrees.

It is not recommended to store it along with other vegetables that need high humidity.

Onion pests and diseases

When growing onions in open ground, the following pests are most dangerous for the plant:

1. Onion moth. To prevent the appearance of these pests, weeds should be removed in a timely manner, crop rotation, agricultural technology should be observed and plant residues should be destroyed.
2. Onion fly. To prevent this pest from settling on onions, the vegetable is recommended plant in the same bed with carrots, the smell of which the onion fly is afraid.
3. Tobacco thrips. Pests are destroyed by Karbofos or Aktellik.
4. Caterpillars of the scoop. You can get rid of the caterpillars by treating the plantings with a solution of Gomelin or Bitoxibacillin.

Unfavorable growing conditions and mistakes in care can lead to damage to the onion with various diseases:

1. Fusarium is a disease that often appears on plants affected by onion flies. With fusarium, tissues die off at the bottom of the onions, and rot appears, after which the tips of the greens turn yellow.To avoid the appearance of this disease, the set is warmed up before planting at a temperature of forty degrees for ten hours.
2. Downy mildew - the disease can be recognized by a gray bloom on the leaves. Affected vegetables do not form seeds and do not store well. To avoid the appearance of powdery mildew, the sets are warmed up before planting. It is also necessary to ensure that the plantings are not thickened.
3. Gray rot - the disease occurs in rainy and damp weather. Diseased plants must be removed. For the purpose of prevention, the planting material is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
4. White rot - acidic soil and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to the appearance of the disease. Therefore, before planting vegetables, the acidic soil is limed, and fresh manure is not used to feed the onions. Diseased plants should be removed.
5. Mosaic is a viral disease in which the plant lags behind in growth, the seeds are almost not formed, the inflorescences become small, and the leaves turn yellow. Affected instances must be removed.
6. Neck rot is a disease that can only be detected after harvest. It manifests itself as mold on the outer scales of the bulbs. Neck rot develops under unfavorable conditions for growing plants. To avoid its appearance, the seedlings before planting and the harvested bulbs are warmed up at a temperature of forty-five degrees. Most often, late varieties are affected by this disease.

Viral diseases of the plant are not cured, therefore, preventive measures must be used. To do this, it is recommended to observe crop rotation, not to make thickened plantings, regularly remove weeds and follow all agricultural techniques. Before planting, the onion sets can be warmed up and treated with copper sulfate.

Fungal diseases can be cured special fungicidal preparations. However, it is not recommended to use them, as the bulbs are capable of accumulating poisons.

Onions are an unpretentious plant that even a novice gardener can grow in his area. The popularity of this vegetable is due to the content of substances useful for the human body in it. Eating onions improves digestion and induces the secretion of gastric juice. In addition, the vegetable has a bactericidal, sedative and diuretic effect.

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The cultivation of onions must be carried out according to certain agrotechnical rules. This will allow you to harvest a rich and high-quality crop.

Biological features of onions

The onion belongs to the lily (onion) family and the monocotyledonous class. The homeland is considered to be Central Asia. This vegetable crop is grown in almost all garden plots. Spicy heads are used as a seasoning and added to many dishes.

Onions are rich in nutrients. The taste and smell is due to the high content of essential oils. Their content can be different, it all depends on the growing conditions, the degree of maturity and storage of the harvested crop. Knowing the secrets of onion care and cultivation, you can get a healthy, rich and high-quality harvest.

More than 400 types of onions are distinguished, but only 10 of them have been introduced into the culture. The vegetable belongs to one, two and three-year-old group of plants. When sowing seeds (nigella), a sowing is obtained. The seeds are small, weighing only about 1 g, the seedlings reach 2 cm in diameter. When the seedlings are planted, large heads of onions are obtained. When they are planted in the third year, they again receive arrows with boxes in which the seeds ripen.

Onions are cold-resistant crops. Seeds germinate at a temperature of about +3 degrees. However, growth and development best of all occur at an air temperature of +11 degrees.

The onion root system is poorly developed, therefore, it makes great demands on the composition of the soil. In addition, onions need special care during cultivation.

Varietal variety of onions

There are two large groups of onions for outdoor cultivation:

1. A group of varieties for the northern regions, where the day length is about 16 hours. Only with this length of day will large bulbs form and seeds develop. Northern varieties with a short daylight hours will have time to form only green feathers.
2. Southern onion varieties can form a large, dense and juicy bulb with a short daylight hours (the day length is about 12 hours). If such varieties are planted in regions with an extended daylight hours, then the bulb will be poorly formed and stored.

Currently, breeders are developing varieties that do not respond to day length. When planted both in the northern and southern regions, you can get a good harvest.

Before sowing in open ground, planting material of any kind is recommended to be treated with growth stimulants and disinfectant solutions.

Onions are divided into groups according to their taste.

There are types of onions that can be divided according to their taste. It all depends on the ratio of sugar and essential oils in the composition of the bulb:

• Sharp.
• Semi-sharp.
• Sweet (salad).

If the sugar content of this cultivated plant is low, then the level of essential oils is also low. The bow will not be very spicy and will produce few green feathers. In addition, proper care affects the taste, and taking into account all the rules of agricultural technology. Breeders annually introduce new types of onions for cultivation. Among the new varieties, there are those that have a sweet taste without a hint of bitterness.

Sevok is planted very early in the spring (late April or early May) or seedlings. They begin to sow nigella for seedlings in mid or early February. Within two months, the seedlings will be ready for transplantation to a permanent place. In order for the culture to receive all the necessary nutrients, it must be properly cared for.

General approaches to agricultural onion cultivation

If all agrotechnical techniques are followed, then you can grow a good harvest of onions in the basement. For this, special wooden shelves with lighting are made. A plastic wrap is laid at the bottom of the structure and the soil is covered. In the future, the cultivation technology is no different from the care of the beds in the open air.

Predecessors and compatibility

The reason why the onion did not grow in the garden is sometimes the wrong planting site.

The best precursors for onions are vegetables such as cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, courgettes, and legumes.

You can plant carrots, cabbage, beets, radishes, herbs (dill, parsley, cilantro) next to the onion beds.

Soil requirements

In order for the onion heads to grow large in the garden, the soil must meet certain requirements:

• The soil in the beds should be moist, especially in the first weeks after planting. But waterlogging should not be allowed, as this leads to a decrease in taste, rotting and a decrease in the shelf life of the crop.
• There should be neutral acidity. If the acidity is increased, then it is recommended to add wood ash.
• To grow giant onions, the soil must contain a lot of nutrients, especially organic matter. Even in the fall, compost or humus is added to the soil at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 sq. m.

Onions grow well in loose, loamy, sandy loam or chernozem soil, which is characterized by high moisture capacity and moisture permeability. If the soil is heavy and acidic, the harvest will be poor.

Environmental requirement

Another unfavorable factor why the onion bulb does not grow is bad weather conditions. Onions are cold-resistant crops, so you can plant them already in early May, when the air temperature is about +5 degrees. In this case, the soil temperature should not be lower than +10 degrees.

Cooling affects the rate of development and growth of the plant. Onion heads grow small, the plant has poor immunity, the harvested crop will be poorly stored.

The specifics of growing turnip onions from sets

Large heads are obtained by growing onions in the Chinese way. Seed material is planted on a hill - ridges that are prepared in advance. The bulbs are deepened by 3 cm and sprinkled with a small layer of earth.

Soil preparation for sowing

They begin to prepare the soil for planting sevka in the fall. It is recommended to dig up a site deeply (to a depth of 25 cm), while potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied. With autumn soil cultivation, the ability to absorb moisture increases. With a high acidity of the soil in the fall, it is recommended to add wood ash, dolomite flour or ground chalk.

Do not dig too deep in the soil in the spring, as the loose substrate prevents seeds from germinating. It is better to loosen the area with a rake in the spring and add nitroammofosk.

How many days onions grow depends on the variety. On average, a vegetable needs 2.5–3 months to grow. They plant it in May, and begin to dig it up in August. Even if the head of the onion has not grown large enough, you should not overexpose it in the ground after ripening. As soon as the feathers turn yellow, dry and fall on the ground, they begin to dig it up.

Sevka preparation

If a set of any varieties of onions was bought in a store, then it must be dried by distributing it in one layer on cardboard or fabric material away from heating appliances. If the seed was grown independently, then before planting it must be thoroughly warmed up to activate growth. It is necessary to heat for two weeks at a temperature of +20 degrees, then it is heated for 8-10 hours at a temperature of +35 degrees.

You can just pour hot water on the set before planting for 15–20 minutes (the water temperature should be about 45 degrees). After that, the set is transferred to cold water.

After the warming up procedure, it is useful to place the planting material in growth-stimulating solutions. For this purpose, drugs such as Zircon, Rost, Humisol are used.

Onion seeds are disinfected before planting in open ground. For this purpose, it is placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in a solution with copper sulfate (5 g of copper sulfate are taken for 10 liters).

Planting sevka

It is best to plant sevka in mid-May, when the weather is stable. The soil should warm up to +12 degrees. The best place to land is an elevated place where no underground water flows. The site should be exposed to sunlight all day without obstruction.

In the selected area, furrows are made at a distance of 15-18 cm, 3 cm deep. After that, the furrows are watered with warm water and the seedlings are planted at intervals of about 8-10 cm. Do not deepen the seedlings too much, they are covered with a small layer of earth on top.

After planting, the sets need special care. You need to water twice a week, you should not allow the spread of weeds, and after two weeks you need to carry out the first top dressing.

Top dressing

Proper care of onions in the open field consists in the timely application of fertilizers:

• The first feeding is carried out 15-17 days after planting, when the phase of active growth of greenery begins. If the feather grows weak, thin and pale, then micronutrients can be added earlier. They use a solution based on urea, which is poured under the root, nitroammophos. As the first feeding, a liquid mullein solution is suitable.
• The next fertilization is carried out in mid-June, three weeks after the first fertilization. At this time, the underground part of the plant is actively developing and it is important to add potassium-phosphorus compositions. You can prepare a solution of superphosphate and potassium salt.
• The third feeding with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (without nitrogen) is carried out only if the soil is depleted, and the plants themselves look weak and develop poorly.

If organic matter was introduced in the fall, all plant residues were removed from the site, then usually this is enough to get a good harvest.

Watering

Another point to consider when growing onions is that they love moist soil. In the first month after onion sprouting, watering should be done once every two weeks. If the weather is dry and hot, then the number of waterings increases to once a week.

Water for irrigation must always be warm and it is better to pour it between the rows. It is advisable to carry out the procedure in the evening or early in the morning.

Loosening of the soil is carried out after watering. This procedure kills pests and their larvae, prevents crust formation and allows oxygen and nutrients to reach the plant roots more quickly.

After watering, the soil should be wet to a depth of 10 cm. During the period of bulb formation, the abundance of watering increases.

Two weeks before the expected harvest, watering is stopped, carrying out only dry loosening. This will allow all nutrients to accumulate in the head and not form a crust on the soil surface.

Loosening, thinning

As the onion grows, thinning is carried out. With a dense planting, two thinning are carried out. The weakest and smallest plants are removed. At the first thinning, a distance of 4 cm is left between the plants.The second thinning is carried out a month later, leaving a distance between the onions of 8 cm.

Loosening is carried out after watering the soil and after rains. This procedure prevents the spread of weeds and allows oxygen to penetrate to the roots without hindrance.

Whether it is necessary to rake off the soil from the bulbs, the decision is made by each grower independently. But it was noticed that the procedure allows you to move the ripening period faster, since more light and heat penetrates the bulb. Raking up the soil should be a couple of weeks before harvest.

Protection against diseases and pests

Often, vegetable beds are attacked by pests and various infections. To reduce the risk of these misfortunes, preventive treatments of onion beds are carried out. Both folk compositions and ready-made preparations bought in the store can be used.

For preventive purposes, onions can be treated with a solution based on copper sulfate. 5 g of this component is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 30 ml of liquid soap is added.

Wood ash, ground pepper, and tobacco dust help protect against diseases and pests. A mixture of these components is sprinkled between the rows of onions. Between the rows, the soil can be watered with saline (200 g of table salt is diluted in 10 liters of water).

Helps to destroy pest larvae by loosening. Loosen the onions as often as possible, especially after watering or after rain.

Harvest

Harvesting begins after a third of the onion leaves turn yellow, dry and fall on the ground. At the same time, the neck of the bulb becomes soft, thinner and dries.

After digging up, the crop can be dried directly in the garden. If the weather is rainy, then the onion is removed indoors. It takes about two weeks for the bulbs to dry completely.

For storing onion crops, it is best to choose a cool, dry, dark room with good ventilation. The air temperature should be approximately +3 degrees.

Onions are a capricious culture. Incorrect disembarkation times often lead to premature arrow formation.

In waterlogged soil, the heads are prone to rotting. All bulbs are often affected by pests, which leads to the death of the crop. Let us consider in more detail how and when sowing onions before winter is the most correct, the characteristics of cultivation and methods of combating diseases. Subject to the recommendations, the onion will thank us with strong large onions.

Landing time and dates

There are two methods for growing bulbs. Crops can be planted both in the spring after the frost leaves, and in the winter. In spring cultivation, it is recommended to take care of soil preparation in the fall. This period is best for producing quality heads from onion sets.Crops are able to tolerate frosts in the Moscow region up to -1 ° when shoots appear, and adults - temperature fluctuations up to -3 -5 °.

In spring, onion sets are sown at the end of April - in May, depending on weather conditions. The weather should stabilize and the ground should warm up well. Small specimens up to 1 cm in size are planted earlier, and the main material 2 weeks later. Early planting of large seedlings leads to the formation of arrows ahead of the prescribed time, which will negatively affect the quality and quantity of the crop.

In autumn, in the southern regions, until mid-October at a temperature of + 2–3 °, it is appropriate to lay in the ground a very small planting plant, which, due to its size, will not tolerate winter storage. Most often, in a warm room, it dries out to half of its own size. Such planting material does not go into early shooting, it is well preserved in winter. Thanks to early shoots, a high-quality early harvest is obtained by July.

To choose the optimal time for planting onion sets, it is recommended to be guided by weather forecasts. The best period is considered the moment of the first daily frost, when the snow has not yet fallen, but according to the forecast there are several relatively warm weeks. A later sowing, for example, in November, with a sharp cold snap will not allow the heads to take root and grow stronger, they will die. Nigella sows when the harvest is harvested in the garden, but frosts have not yet come.

In the northern regions of Russia, onions are planted before winter in early autumn, so that it has time to take root, but no later than mid-October. Only frost-resistant varieties are suitable for this. They definitely need shelter for the winter. In Siberia, the cultivation of winter onions is inappropriate. It will not survive intense frosts and may freeze, so spring planting is optimal.

Benefits of sowing before winter

Planting a bow in the fall avoids premature shooting. The heads will already form the root system by the frost, but the leaf does not have time to start growing. At the end of March, with favorable warm weather, friendly strong shoots will appear. This is facilitated by the moisture accumulated in the soil during the thawing of the snow.

Planting onions in autumn allows you to get strong and resistant to pests, for example, to the onion fly. At first, seedlings are rare, but gradually they get stronger. Harvesting in July makes it possible to grow early ripening crops after bulbous ones and get more vegetables from the site. This saves space in the garden. The advantage of sub-winter cultivation is the early onion for sale. It keeps well, tolerates winter well in a cool room, unlike other early crops.

Varieties for autumn planting

Not all varieties are suitable for laying in the fall before winter. Early-ripening shallots are most often planted for the sake of early greens. It yields two weeks earlier than ordinary onions. Batun is also valuable for early greens. It is sown with the possibility of transplanting to another place. He is a decoration of the garden. Stuttgarten Riesen is highly resistant to downy mildew.

In autumn, wild oat grows well in the Moscow region. These are small onions of irregular shape, up to 1 cm in size. They are planted in grooves to a depth of 3 cm. Winter varieties "Kip-Well", "Radar", "Shakespeare" are suitable for subwinter cultivation. They are frost-resistant, have excellent taste and large bulbs.

The autumn planting of Myachkovsky onions gives a stable harvest, and Malognezdny is well preserved. Podzimny "Carmen" forms purple bulbs weighing up to 120 grams. "Silver Prince" is considered the most productive among the varieties of winter sowing. "Strigunovsky" stands out for its sharp taste and early maturity.

Bulb selection

Heat-loving varieties that are not resistant to frost should not be used as a podwinny material. Pre-onions are sorted by size: the largest, medium and small. Oats are called specimens up to 1 cm in diameter. Sevok is larger.Its size is up to 3 cm. Selection onions are bulbs over 3 cm in size. Nigella seeds are called seeds that are laid to obtain sets. It should be remembered that onions larger than 2 cm can throw arrows.

The calibration of the planting material improves the quality of the crop and correctly distributes the planting material in the garden. All three size categories of onions are planted separately, so the seedlings stand together, the plants grow about the same and are strong. The bulbs must be dry and free from mold and rot.

Attention! "Dried and damaged specimens must be discarded."

Choosing a site for planting and preparing the soil

Bulbous plants are not compatible with all crops. Onions are planted after harvesting courgettes, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, vegetable peas, cabbage with an early and medium ripening period, potatoes and legumes. The soil must be dug up, mineral fertilizers applied, then slightly compacted or left to settle naturally. Crops should not be planted in a low-lying area, otherwise the planting will be flooded when the garden begins to thaw.
The soil should be light and well drained. Humus-sandy soils and loams, silt deposits are optimal. It is recommended to choose the southern or southwestern part of the garden with a slight slope that prevents water accumulation. It is desirable that the area be protected from strong gusts of wind by larger tall plants.

When digging, fertilizers are applied per 1 m2 in the amount of:

• humus 5–6 kg;
• potassium salt 10-15 g;
• superphosphate 20-25 g

Advice: “instead of potassium salt and superphosphate, you can add an eco-phosphate to the beds. Before planting, ash is scattered in an amount of 10 g. The soil must contain a sufficient amount of moisture, if necessary, it must be pre-moistened. "

Step-by-step onion planting

Planting onions before winter is carried out in the grooves. The sevok and wild oats should be planted in grooves 4–5 cm deep in 5–7 cm increments. The distance between the grooves on the bed should be at least 15 cm. This distribution is necessary for the correct formation of the bulbs. There is enough space for the plants, the formed growing heads do not oppress each other. If you plant onions on a feather, the distance between the plants can be reduced.

The grooves fall asleep, lightly tamping the soil with your hand. There is no need to water the garden. Watering is recommended 10 days after planting the planting material. At the first frost, the onion must be mulched with spruce branches, dry leaves, fallen needles, sawdust, and the contents must be pressed on top with branches so that the wind does not spread the mulch from the site. You can also use peat and humus for mulch. In a snowless winter and when the temperature drops below -15 °, the onions are covered with foil.

To prevent the bulbs from giving arrows, some gardeners recommend immersing them in water at 60 ° C for one minute. Heating the onions in the microwave is allowed. Each copy is wrapped in a cloth and placed in a glass container, which is heated for 2 minutes. Then the onion sets for planting in the fall are treated with a growth stimulant.

Batun onions are planted in the same way as onions. It can be planted during the first frosts down to -3 °. The minimum distance between the onions is 3-4 cm. The neck of the shallot is preliminarily cut, the bulbs are soaked in water at a temperature of 30 ° during the day. They need to be allowed to dry after soaking, only then planted.

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Nigella sows in grooves 3-4 cm deep. Dense planting of seeds is allowed, sprouted onions can later be thinned out for greenery on the table so that the remaining plants can form bulbs. Thinning can be done in two stages. During the second procedure, leave the distance between plants within 5-8 cm.

Fertilizers and care after planting

As long as spring moisture remains in the ground, crops are not watered. In May, June and July, they make sure that the land does not dry out. Do not water the area with water below + 18 °, otherwise there is a high likelihood of powdery mildew. Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Loosening of the soil is performed every two weeks after heavy rainfall or watering. Blackies need a little feeding with slurry or diluted mullein after thinning. Some gardeners plant black onions and grow them without top dressing.

Weeds create high humidity, so they need to be weeded out in a timely manner. High humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Batun, on the contrary, feels great with abundant watering. Prevention of fungal diseases will be spraying plants with copper sulfate or copper oxychloride according to the instructions for the preparation. The batun is fertilized with mineral fertilizers and rotted manure after 3-4 leaves appear simultaneously with watering. It is recommended to add liquid soap to the solution.

Shallot also needs loosening of row spacings and abundant watering. Chicken droppings or mullein diluted with water are used as fertilizers. It is recommended to fertilize "Stuttgarter" with complex fertilizers until the beginning of July, when it is actively growing. Then feeding and watering is not carried out. After the foliage turns yellow and lodges on the beds, "Stuttgarter" is ready for harvesting by about August. Delay leads to decay of the tops and damage to the bulbs.

The main reasons for a failed landing

The main reason for unsuccessful planting is a violation of the cultivation technology and the wrong choice of a site for cultivation. With frequent precipitation and waterlogging of the soil, the cause of failure is untimely treatment of plants with antiseptics from fungi. Onions are planted in the same place only after a while.

Attention! "The earth should rest from bulbous for 3-4 years."

Violation of the ripening of the bulbs and active growth during the harvest period is due to an excess of fertilizer in the soil. They begin to actively throw out new feathers, the leaf becomes very high, lays down still green, causing rotting. The situation can be corrected by bending the green tops so that the stipules dry out. Such a crop is not subject to winter storage.

A healthy root system is the key to successful cultivation. Autumn planting of onions at a temperature of + 7-14 ° can give an excellent harvest. You should not rush to harvest the crop, otherwise it will be unsuitable for storage due to insufficient water in the head. Yellowed and withered feathers are a sign of readiness and maturity.

Pests and methods of struggle

The onion moth infects flower arrows and the underside of feathers. Its larvae eat away the flesh. The feather only has the skin left. The caterpillars of the moth damage the inflorescences, the neck and the head itself. During the season, the pest is able to breed two to three generations. The fight consists in the timely weeding and destruction of old, wilted and rotten plants, in which the parasite likes to settle.

The stem nematode leads to the complete loss of the crop. It is recommended to pre-treat the area with a solution of sodium chloride at the rate of 2 tablespoons per bucket of water. You should not sow onions in the same area every year. The territory must rest from bulbous for at least 3 years.
The onion fly causes yellowing, wilting and death of greenery. Planting carrots next to it helps scare off the pest. Moreover, both plants protect each other from pests. To scare off parasites will help a solution of tobacco in the amount of 200 grams per 10 liters of water. Laundry soap is added to it. Watering is carried out in the amount of 1 liter for each 1 m2 of planting.

Diseases and treatments

Cervical rot is a gray, dent-like stain on the bulbs. At first, it appears around the neck, but then passes to the bottom and scales. This is a fungal disease.Onions must be thoroughly dried for 2 weeks and sprinkled with chalk or charcoal before placing in storage boxes.

Peronosporosis is a pale green spot that transforms into a grayish-purple bloom. The upper part of the greenery turns yellow and dies off. This fungus actively spreads in damp conditions. It is also called downy mildew. Sparse crops will become a prophylaxis. It is recommended to steam the planting material for 8 hours at a temperature of + 35 °.