Onion sets planting and care in the open field for the winter

Onions are popular vegetable crops. It is added to salads, soups, meat and fish dishes. Therefore, in almost every summer cottage and personal plot you can see beds with plantings this vegetable. But to get a good harvest, you need to know how to properly plant and care for onions.

Planting onions

The crop can be grown in three ways:

1. From seeds in one year... This method of growing vegetables is suitable for areas with a warm climate.
2. From seed in two years... In a two-year culture, the plant is grown in areas with short summers.
3. Seedling method... This method is suitable for sweet and semi-spicy varieties of vegetables.

But before you start planting onions in open ground, you should prepare a site for it. The beds are recommended to be made in organic-rich, dry, sunny, open areas with neutral soil. If the soil is acidic, then it is preliminarily lime.

You can plant onions after tomatoes, green manure, peas, beans, cabbage crops, potatoes. After other types of onions, cucumbers, carrots and garlic, onions can be planted only after three years.

When planting in spring seed soil for planting is prepared in the fall:

1. Rotted manure or humus is added to the soil, and the bed is dug to a depth of fifteen to twenty centimeters. It is not recommended to add fresh manure, otherwise only greens will grow.
2. The acidic soil is mixed with limestone, ground chalk, wood ash or dolomite flour.
3. In the spring, before sowing seeds or planting seedlings, mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil - potassium chloride, urea, superphosphate.

Growing onions from seeds

Semi-sweet and sweet varieties in warm climates can be grown from seeds in one year. The planting material is pre-processed, for which the seeds are placed in gauze, moistened and kept for swelling during the day.

A bed prepared for planting seeds is watered copper sulfate solution (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon), after which seeds are placed into it to a depth of one and a half centimeters. The distance between the rows should be about thirteen centimeters, and between the seeds - one and a half centimeters. Crops are watered with water from a watering can with a shower head and covered with foil.

Crop care consists in timely moistening of the soil and daily airing of the plantings. When the seedlings appear, the shelter is removed. Seedlings must be thinned out so that there is a distance of two to three centimeters between the plants. The plantings are watered, and the soil around them is mulched with humus. This mulch will feed the plants, retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing. Once again, the seedlings must be thinned out three weeks after germination. The distance between them should be at least six to eight centimeters.

Growing seedlings

In early or mid-April, pretreated onion seeds are sown thickly in soil-filled seedbeds.The planting material is placed at a depth of one centimeter, moisten from a spray bottle and cover with foil. After the shoots appear, the shelter is removed. Seedling care consists only in timely soil moisture.

In open ground, seedlings are planted at the age of fifty to sixty days. Before planting in the garden, the roots on the onions are recommended to be shortened by one third of the length.

Planting sevka

In regions with a short summer, in the first year, onion sets are grown on the beds, which are stored at home in winter and planted in the next spring on the beds for growing. Before planting, the onions must be sorted out, warmed up for seven days in the sun and held for ten minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Sevok is planted in the beds in May according to the following scheme:

1. The distance between the rows should be thirty centimeters.
2. The distance between the onions is from eight to ten centimeters.
3. Sevok should be planted to a depth of five centimeters.

When growing sets in the fall, you can get turnips, and in the summer - greens. For this, the distance between the landings is five centimeters. During the summer, the onions are torn out through one and used as greenery.

Planting onions in the fall

To get a harvest already in July, the seed should be planted in the beds from the fifth to the twentieth of October. Before winter, only cold-resistant vegetable varieties are planted, which include variety Stuttgarten, Strigunovsky, Danilovksky and Arzamas varieties.

A bed for winter plantings should be done in sunny, elevated areas. Snow should melt on them before everyone else and water should not stagnate.

The soil for planting the sevka should be still warm. However, before frost, onions should not be planted, since the sevok can dry out.

The planting material is pre-sorted out and warmed up. Sevok is placed in the ground to a depth of five centimeters, in seven centimeters increments. The distance between the rows is about fifteen centimeters. The beds are covered with straw or spruce branches. As soon as the snow begins to melt in the spring, the shelter is removed.

Autumn planting sevka has its advantages:

1. After harvesting, another crop can be planted on the garden bed.
2. The onion fly is not afraid of autumn plantings, since they have time to get stronger by its appearance.
3. At home, the sevok dries quickly and is difficult to preserve until spring.

Onion care

When growing onions in open ground, it should be provided with timely watering, dressing and treatments from pests and diseases.

Onions should be watered once a week, using five to ten liters of water per square meter of planting. However, if it rains regularly in summer, then watering may not be necessary. Otherwise, in waterlogged soil, the onions will begin to rot. Learn about the condition of the soil can be green. If it becomes pale, then there is an excess of moisture in the soil. The bluish-white feathers indicate that the soil is dry. In July, the bulbs begin to ripen and watering is reduced.

When growing onions during the season, three additional fertilizing with organic fertilizers is carried out. You can use a solution of mullein, urea or bird droppings for this (for 10 liters of water - one glass of organic matter). One square meter of the garden bed is watered with three liters of solution. The first feeding is carried out after the greens appear. After two weeks, the plantings are fertilized a second time. The third time the plants are fed when the bulbs are about the size of a walnut.

When the greens of the onions reach a size of about fifteen centimeters, it is recommended to treat the plants with copper sulfate, which is good protection against many fungal diseases... To do this, the feathers are sprayed with a solution prepared from ten liters of water and a teaspoon of the drug.

Harvesting and storing onions

From about mid-August, when the bulbs grow to the required volume, the feathers lodge and new leaves stop forming, you can start harvesting. This should be done in warm, dry weather. If you skip the onion harvesting time, then it may start to grow again... These vegetables are not stored for a long time.

The collected bulbs are evenly laid out on the garden bed. When the onions are dry, they are freed from the ground and additionally dried in a dry room or in the sun. Dried vegetables should be examined carefully. Bulbs left without husks and spoiled are not suitable for long-term storage. Before you put vegetables in storage, you need to cut off the leaves. Only a neck about six centimeters long should remain. To increase the shelf life of the bulbs, the roots are cauterized.

It is recommended to store onion heads in a dry room with an air temperature slightly above 0 degrees. Since air must flow to the bulbs, they are stacked in stockings, baskets, nets or boxes. During storage, vegetables are regularly sorted out, removing bulbs that have begun to grow or rot.

You can store the crop in the apartment. In this case, you do not need to trim dry leaves on the plant. The container with vegetables is placed away from the batteries. The optimum air temperature should be from +18 to +20 degrees.

It is not recommended to store it along with other vegetables that need high humidity.

Onion pests and diseases

When growing onions in open ground, the following pests are most dangerous for the plant:

1. Onion moth. To prevent the appearance of these pests, weeds should be removed in a timely manner, crop rotation, agricultural technology should be observed and plant residues should be destroyed.
2. Onion fly. To prevent this pest from settling on onions, the vegetable is recommended plant in the same bed with carrots, the smell of which the onion fly is afraid.
3. Tobacco thrips. Pests are destroyed by Karbofos or Aktellik.
4. Caterpillars of the scoop. You can get rid of the caterpillars by treating the plantings with a solution of Gomelin or Bitoxibacillin.

Unfavorable growing conditions and mistakes in care can lead to damage to the onion with various diseases:

1. Fusarium is a disease that often appears on plants affected by onion flies. With fusarium, tissues die off at the bottom of the onions, and rot appears, after which the tips of the greens turn yellow. To avoid the appearance of this disease, the set is warmed up before planting at a temperature of forty degrees for ten hours.
2. Downy mildew - the disease can be recognized by a gray bloom on the leaves. Affected vegetables do not form seeds and do not store well. To avoid the appearance of powdery mildew, the sets are warmed up before planting. It is also necessary to ensure that the plantings are not thickened.
3. Gray rot - the disease occurs in rainy and damp weather. Diseased plants must be removed. For the purpose of prevention, the planting material is treated with a solution of copper sulfate.
4. White rot - acidic soil and excess nitrogen in the soil contribute to the appearance of the disease. Therefore, before planting vegetables, the acidic soil is limed, and fresh manure is not used to feed the onions. Diseased plants should be removed.
5. Mosaic is a viral disease in which the plant lags behind in growth, the seeds are almost not formed, the inflorescences become small, and the leaves turn yellow. Affected instances must be removed.
6. Neck rot is a disease that can only be detected after harvest. It manifests itself as mold on the outer scales of the bulbs. Neck rot develops under unfavorable growing conditions. To avoid its appearance, the seedlings before planting and the harvested bulbs are warmed up at a temperature of forty-five degrees. Most often, late varieties are affected by this disease.

Viral diseases of the plant are not cured, therefore, preventive measures must be used.To do this, it is recommended to observe crop rotation, not to make thickened plantings, regularly remove weeds and follow all agricultural techniques. Before planting, the onion sets can be warmed up and treated with copper sulfate.

Fungal diseases can be cured special fungicidal preparations. However, it is not recommended to use them, as the bulbs are capable of accumulating poisons.

Onions are an unpretentious plant that even a novice gardener can grow in his area. The popularity of this vegetable is due to the content of substances useful for the human body in it. Eating onions improves digestion and induces the secretion of gastric juice. In addition, the vegetable has a bactericidal, sedative and diuretic effect.

>

More than five thousand years ago, the golden onion was already known to our ancestors. As a cultivated vegetable plant, onions began to be actively cultivated on mountain slopes about a thousand years ago in Iran, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan.

Today, there are over 900 varieties of this culture. The most popular among gardeners are shallots, batun, leek, branched, Chinese, wild garlic and others.

How to plant onions before winter

Spicy and sweet, leafy and bulbous varieties are actively used as food by peoples all over the world. Every Russian consumes from 8 to 10 kg of onions per year. Onions - culture capricious... In case of insufficient humidity, it throws out arrows, and in damp weather it rots.

During winter storage, certain conditions must also be observed, since at high temperatures the bulbs dry out, and after a low temperature during planting, the bulb goes into peduncle.

Despite the capriciousness, onion beds are present in every personal and summer cottage. To get abundant harvest strong golden bulbs, when planting, it is necessary to take into account some of the features of this plant:

Same

• onion is a biennial plant;
• short fibrous root system has low absorption;
• insufficient illumination is poorly tolerated;
• being a frost-resistant crop, onions tolerate spring frosts on soil down to minus 3 ° C;
• high temperatures, above + 25 ° C, stop the growth of onion leaves.

The effectiveness of planting onions in the fall before winter has been known for a long time.

In 1993, LS Borisenkova in her brochure "Onions and Garlic" described in detail the method of winter cultivation and the varieties of suitable onion varieties.

However, some vegetable growers today do not know and do not use this technique.

Choosing a site for planting onion sets in autumn

In order for winter onions to overwinter and give a good harvest, the site for winter planting must meet certain requirements:

• the bed for growing winter onions must certainly be well lit. The landing site should be completely exposed to sunlight, but not in a windy place;
• the onion bed must be cleared of weeds, since pests will remain in them in winter, and in the spring these plants will take away moisture and nutrients from winter bulbs for active growth;
• onion varieties do not like soil in lowlands with high humidity. It is recommended to raise the bed for planting onions before winter in the Moscow region by 20-25 cm;
• winter onions are recommended to be planted after cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, peas, zucchini. In the same place, this culture is planted after 4–5 seasons.

Before planting in autumn, the soil is recommended disinfect solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. l. per 10 liters of water), and also fertilize.

Strong large bulbs grow when a mixture of peat, wood ash, humus, potassium salt and superphosphate is added to the loose soil.

Selection of onion varieties and preparation of sets

For planting onion sets in the fall, sharp early varieties are recommended.

Early ripening variety Stuttgarten Riesen popular for the pungent taste of its dense, large, flat-round bulbs and early ripening. Centurion is distinguished by high yield and low morbidity.

Its identical bulbs - turnips with dense scales are well preserved.Shakespeare hardly shoots, has a soft and very juicy fragrant pulp. Varieties Baron and Radar are good fresh. Spicy and rich, large bulbs ripen quickly, but do not last long.

Varieties Shallot and Batun planted before winter for the sake of early greenery. Their green, succulent leaves grow 2-3 weeks earlier than all other varieties. The varieties Strigunovsky, Myachkovsky, Silver Prince, Carmen, Malognezdny and others are suitable for winter cultivation.

The size of the onions for winter planting is divided into four groups:

​​

• ostyuzhok - the smallest heads, less than 1 cm, are best suited for winter planting, as they dry out until spring. With winter cultivation, they give a good yield;
• the highest yield is given by heads of category 1 in size from 1 to 1.5 cm;
• Category 2 bulbs with sizes from 1.5 to 3 cm and samples larger than 3 cm are planted to obtain early greenery.

How to plant onions before winter

Onion seeds, nigella, grow in the first year from the flowers of the onion turnip. Before winter, vegetable growers sometimes sow nigella under a film or non-woven agrofibre.

Sevok for planting onions for the winter is selected using a peculiar sieves... Round holes with a diameter of 1 cm are cut into the cardboard sheet and the bulbs are sieved. The onions that have passed into the hole can be planted. To prevent the onion from going into the arrows, it is recommended to immerse the selected heads for 2 minutes in water at a temperature of 60 ° C before planting.

The recommendations of experienced gardeners when and how to plant onion sets before winter will help to correctly plant onion sets before winter.

Each gardener decides for himself when to plant onions before winter. Autumn planting time is from 5 to 20 October at an air temperature of + 2- + 3 ° C. The second week of October is a good time when the onions have time to take root, but the leaves do not have time to germinate. In early spring, winter bulbs grow quickly due to the moisture accumulated in the ground.

The bed dug up with the applied fertilizers is leveled. When the soil subsides in a few days, the sorted seed is planted in grooves to a depth of 3-5 cm. At a deeper planting, the onions rot. Between the beds it is recommended 15–20 cm, between the heads 6–8 cm. To obtain early greenery, the seedlings are planted in nests of 4–6 onions. The soil layer above the onions should not exceed 1.5–2 cm. To prevent the seedlings from jumping out during rooting, the soil in the garden bed after planting is lightly pressed with palms or a wide board.

Into the soil nitrogen fertilizers - urea or saltpeter - stimulate the growth of leaf mass. Therefore, when growing onions on heads, they are not recommended.

In order for the winter onions to winter well, actively sprout in the spring and give a bountiful harvest, it is recommended to cover the garden bed with peat, dry leaves or humus (with a layer of 2-3 cm) after planting, and cover it with straw in case of severe frosts. The cover layer also helps to trap the thawed spring water. In winters with little snow, it is recommended to shovel snow onto the garden bed or cover it with a film.

Spring care of the onion bed

Mulching in spring after snow melting layer and film are removed. Carefully, without damaging the sprouts, shallow grooves are made above the rows. This allows the soil to warm up faster and dry out excess moisture. If frosts below -3 ° C are expected, it is better to cover the garden with foil or agrofibre.

The first feeding is recommended with a liquid solution of 1:10 mullein or bird droppings. In mid-May, a second feeding with nitrophos or mullein is carried out. It is recommended to feed the soil with potassium sulfate, superphosphate or wood ash before the bulbous heads are formed.

If there is insufficient rainfall in May and June, the beds must be watered. In a rainy summer, fertilizers are applied dry between rows to a depth of 5–6 cm.

Onion pest and disease control

A pest that can destroy the harvest of juicy onions - onion fly... Appearing in mid-May, this insect is capable of giving offspring three times before frost in the form of white larvae.It reproduces poorly in dry weather. The smell of calendula repels the onion fly. Spraying diseased plants with tincture of wormwood or tansy helps.

Some onion diseases require extra care to preserve the crop. In humid warm weather, small yellow spots appear on onion feathers - rust. When harvesting, you can find gray rot on turnips. Before storing the crop, the onions must be well dried in the sun. Seeds and bulbs can be infected with powdery mildew. These seeds planted in the spring will lead to infection and death of the entire crop.

The alternation of planting different vegetable crops in the beds, disinfection of the soil and airing the room in which the root crops are stored helps to avoid contamination of the bulbs with various harmful fungi.

Planting onions before winter has a number of advantages:

• small sevok does not disappear, but grows into large bulbs;
• no need to save seeds;
• winter onions ripen faster, give less arrows, keep longer;
• winter bulbs grow larger and healthier;
• in spring, time is freed up for planting other plants;
• in the fall, sets are cheaper.

Correct planting of seedlings before winter gives a bountiful harvest of large and juicy bulbs.

Attention, only TODAY!

Growing onions for a turnip in the open field seems to be a simple matter, but this is not entirely true. Planting onions before winter or sowing them in spring, preliminary processing of the seedlings, caring for the beds in the summer - the technology of each stage has its own peculiarities. Only a competent approach is the key to a high yield of onions and a long shelf life.

Variety selection

There are many varieties of onions: early and mid-season, sweet and spicy, forming one head, or several, with different shelf life.

When choosing a variety, first of all, you need to think about in which climatic zone the onion will grow. Those varieties that grow well and are stored in the southern regions are not at all suitable for growing in the Moscow region, in the Urals or in Siberia. Only zoned varieties should be chosen.

Long shelf life is:

• bitter, pungent varieties;
• varieties whose turnip is covered with yellow, red or brown husks.

It is enough to grow sweet onions in small quantities and eat them first. Purple and white onions do not last long.

Winter or spring?

Sevok can be planted both before winter (winter) and in spring (spring).

Winter onions have some benefits:

• does not release arrows;
• ripens earlier, already in June a full-fledged turnip is formed, which is suitable for eating;
• the onion fly is less likely to damage the winter bow, because by the time it appears, it is gaining strength and becomes more rough for it;
• full harvest is carried out in July. The vacant space can be sown with siderates, and after them, plant greens or other vegetables (radish, Chinese cabbage).

Autumn sowing is suitable for those regions where the ground is covered with snow for at least 10 cm in winter. The snow cover protects the plantings from frost, and the onions do not freeze even at temperatures below -15 °. For cultivation in the Urals and Siberia, where the winter is snowy and the soil warms up for a long time in spring, winter onions are a good opportunity to get early not only greens, but also turnip onions.

For planting before winter, the smallest set is chosen. It does not last until spring, but in the open field it undergoes natural stratification and forms a full-fledged large head.

Winter onions have one drawback - they are stored less than spring onions.

Advice

Planting onions in the open field can be carried out in two stages - part of them can be planted as winter, so that fresh onions are on the table in June. And plant the second, main, part in the spring, when the earth warms up. Spring onions are stored for a long time and do not lose their qualities until the next season.

Planting and caring for winter onions is no different from growing spring crops.The technology is the same, starting from choosing a place for a garden and ending with preparation for storage.

Choosing a place on the site

For bulb beds, choose a sunny place that is not shaded by anything throughout the day. Onions should be grown in an area where water does not stagnate after rains. Too wet soil can cause the entire crop to rot.

It is important to observe crop rotation outdoors. Sevok can be planted after all types of cabbage, radish, tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers. Good neighbors for onions are carrots, zucchini, or any greens. It will be correct to pre-grow green manure in the garden and embed them in the soil.

Advice

You cannot plant onions twice in a row in the same place. The unwanted precursor is garlic.

What to plant after onions for the next year:

• any greens;
• cruciferous;
• potato;
• beans;
• tomatoes;
• cucumbers.

The correct choice of location, observance of crop rotation and enrichment of the soil with green manure will greatly facilitate the care of bulbous plantings.

Garden bed preparation and fertilization

Onions like loose, breathable soil with a lot of rotted manure or compost. Fresh manure cannot be added - nitrogen will provoke active feather growth to the detriment of the bulb. The sour soil is not suitable for growing onions, it grows poorly on it, is sick and does not form a large head. Such soil must be limed by adding chalk, dolomite flour, lime to it.

When planting in spring, the bed is dug up and organic matter is added in the fall, and when growing in winter - a month before sowing. In the spring, mineral fertilizers are applied immediately before planting. If the onion is planted before winter, fertilize when the feather starts to grow in spring.

Complex mineral fertilizer can be prepared by yourself. To do this, mix 2.5 matchbox of superphosphate and 1 box of carbamide and potassium chloride. The calculation is made for 1 m2 of the garden.

Landing dates

Winter onions are planted in late autumn, about a month before the onset of frost. With earlier planting, the bulbs will start to grow and fall under frost. If planted later, the roots will not have time to grow.

In spring, sevok can be planted throughout May. It is important that the soil warms up. If you plant in cold ground, shooting and early seed formation will occur, and the onion will not be able to form a full-fledged head.

You should not rush into spring plantings. Onions have a short growing season, and they will have time to ripen.

Advice

You can accelerate the warming of the soil if you put black cellophane on the garden bed.

Seeding preparation for planting

Before planting, pre-treatment of the seed is carried out. It promotes rapid rooting and germination, destroys pathogens of fungal diseases and protects the seedlings from pests such as onion flies.

Processing is carried out in several stages.

1. Two weeks before planting, the sets are taken out to a warm place.
2. If this was not done in advance, then the bulbs are placed in a mesh bag, basket or in a cardboard box and placed near a battery or a solar window for 8-10 hours;
3. Trim dry tails to white flesh.
4. Place the onions in warm water (30 °) for a day.
5. The next day, soak in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, "Fitosporin" or a solution with salt. It is enough to hold for 20 minutes. After soaking in potassium permanganate, rinse in clean water.

If earlier such a pest as an onion fly was noticed in the garden, then treatment of the seedlings with birch tar is a good prevention. 1 tablespoon of tar is diluted in 1 liter of water at room temperature. The onions are soaked for 2-3 hours, stir occasionally.

If an onion bed is spilled with a solution of birch tar before sowing, pests will fly around it. It is advisable to carry out additional prophylaxis in June, when the pests begin to fly out again.

Planting and leaving

Planting and caring for winter and spring onions is carried out in the same way.

The sevok is planted in grooves previously shed with water 4 cm deep. The distance between the grooves should be 30-35 cm. 10 cm should be left between the plants in one row. Another option is to plant in a zigzag furrow. This will increase the feeding area, and the onion for greens does not have to be pulled out all at once.

Advice

If you cut off a part of the feather for greens, the process of photosynthesis will be disrupted and the bulb will not gain the required mass. It will be right for the greenery to make a separate bed and plant sprouted bulbs from the last harvest on it or plant perennial onions.

Care consists in weeding, watering and feeding. Weeds should be removed as they grow. Weed roots should not interfere with the growth of the bulb.

Such an important part of caring for bulbous plantings, like watering, must be carried out competently:

• immediately after planting, the garden is often watered as the soil dries up;
• when the feather starts to grow, the frequency of watering is reduced, and in June it is reduced to a minimum.

Lack or excess of water can be identified by the color of the feather:

• a bluish-whitish color indicates a lack of moisture;
• pale green indicates its excess.

If fertilizers were applied before planting, then onion care excludes summer dressing. If the beds were not fertilized, then the plantings are watered with infusion of mullein or bird droppings.

Winter onions require additional care in the winter. If frost has come, and there is still not enough snow, then the plantings must be covered with dry foliage or spruce branches. In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, the shelter must be removed immediately.

Harvesting

In order for the onion to be stored for a long time, it is necessary to harvest the crop on time and correctly. Winter onions are harvested in July, and spring onions in August.

After the new feather stops growing, and the old greenery dries up and lays down, you need to pull out the bulb and examine it. Is it densely covered with husk, dry to the touch, brightly colored? This means that the harvest is ready to be harvested. If you miss the ripening period, then the bulb will begin to grow further, release greens. It is eaten, but not stored.

The heads are carefully dug up and left to dry in the garden in dry weather. If it rains, dry it under the roof. After drying, they are thoroughly cleaned of the earth, taking care not to damage the husk.

The crop is sorted out, rejecting dented, damaged, husked heads. The tails of the rest are cut off, leaving about 6 cm. If the tail is not dry, such a bulb will not be stored.

They are stored for storage in low boxes or boxes. The room must be dry, a suitable temperature is from +5 to + 20 °. You cannot store onions in a cold basement.

Conclusion

To grow onions that will be stored until the next season, it is important to choose the right variety, do pre-sowing treatment and carry out constant care until the very harvest. On unkempt beds without top dressing, onions are not good.

It is quite easy to grow high-quality onion heads from sets, especially since the technology has many advantages. High productivity is noted, rapid maturation of root crops, the release of arrows happens less often than when growing with a turnip. With proper care, outdoor planting is straightforward.

It is also possible to sow seedlings in the country in the northern regions, Siberian regions and Novosibirsk. It is important to follow the sowing rules, take care of it properly and protect it from frost.

The correct timing for planting onion sets in the open field

The optimal period for planting is end of April... The early term is due to the culture's resistance to cold. A method of growing onions from sets planted before winter (in the second half of October) is also used.

Planting seedlings at a later time leads to rapid drying of the upper layer, as a result of which the soil quickly loses the moisture accumulated over the winter. This negatively affects the rooting of the bulbs, which delays the emergence of seedlings.As a result, the roots do not fully ripen.

In the Urals and in the regions of Siberia, they plan to plant a sevka from the beginning of May (from 5-10 numbers) when the soil temperature is from +7 degrees.

It is not worth delaying planting work, this will reduce the yield. But there is also no need to rush to throw planting material into cold ground, this will lead to the release of arrows during the development of feathers.

For a good harvest, planting work should not be delayed

Methods for growing and planting onions

The place for the beds is selected well lit by sunlight and ventilated... This is necessary for normal vegetation, exclusion of the formation of rot and fungal diseases.

The soil is suitable light fertile with a neutral or slightly acidic medium... To reduce acidity, lime is introduced into the soil (up to 4-5 kg ​​per hundred square meters). Also suitable for this purpose: dolomite flour, wood ash, crushed chalk.

It is not worth breaking up the beds at the place where the garlic is grown, the land after the spicy crop is very depleted, which will reduce the onion yield. But after tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, cereals and potatoes, you can plant a set.

When enriching the soil with fertilizers, it is not worthwhile to simultaneously introduce lime into it, as this leads to a significant decrease in the amount of nitrogen. And it is necessary for normal vegetation.

When preparing the beds for onions in the fall, humus is applied to the site (up to 5 kg per m2). During the work, the earth is dug to a depth 20 cm... Spring work begins with cleaning the area from debris and fertilizing the soil with minerals. Superphosphate (6 g / m2), urea (1 g / m2), potassium chloride (2 g / m2) are scattered over the ground and cultivated.

An obligatory preparatory step is soil disinfection. To do this, 7 days before planting, it is watered with a solution of copper sulfate (a tablespoon of the product in a bucket of water).

A solution of copper sulfate is used to disinfect the soil.

The planting material also needs to be decontaminated before planting. Proper preparation affects yield and the resistance of the crop to diseases and pests. Sevka processing consists of the following stages:

• soaking in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (copper sulfate 0.35%);
• drying followed by 20-day storage at temperature +20 degrees;
• warming up the heads for 10 hours at a temperature +40 degrees;
• seed treatment with a growth stimulant.

Onion sets are grown in several ways:

• in the spring;
• before winter;
• in a greenhouse;
• by the bridge method.

In the spring in the garden

Spring disembarkation is carried out according to the scheme:

• row spacing for manual processing of beds - 25 cm (in the presence of a walk-behind tractor - 60-72 cm);
• distance between holes - from 5 to 10 cm;
• immersion depth - 3-4 cm.

Planting onion sets in spring

The spacing between the heads is selected depending on the diameter of the bulbs used: up to 10 mm you need to indent 5 cm, up to 15 mm - 8 cm, over 15-20 mm - 10 cm.

After planting, the bed is mulched with a layer (2-3 cm) of peat, paper, sawdust or other suitable materials.

Before winter in the soil

The method of planting seedlings before winter has several advantages:

• there is no need to provide storage conditions for seedlings in winter until mid-spring;
• early dates harvesting (mid-July);
• by the time the pests appear, the culture is fully formed and strengthened.

In the vacant place, you can manage to grow a crop of some fruits with a short ripening period.

The peculiarity of choosing a place for a garden bed is the preference for a site located on a hill. There the snow melts faster, moreover, stagnation of melt water is excluded.

Disembarkation time - from 5 to 20 October... Planting material should be properly prepared: calibrated, disinfected and warmed up. The scheme is used standard or with a narrow row spacing up to 15 cm... The embedment depth is 5 cm.

With the onset of cold weather, the surface of the garden bed is covered with mulching material.In the spring, the old protective layer must be removed.

In the greenhouse

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse involves a number of preparatory measures:

• disinfection of structural surfaces;
• loosening the soil;
• the introduction of humus (5 kg per 1 m2);
• fertilization of beds with minerals (superphosphate - 30 g., potassium chloride - 15 g.);
• mixing and leveling the soil.

The seed is selected with a diameter of 30-50 mm. Any bad material is discarded. in the second half of October according to the scheme:

• the distance between the heads is 20-25 cm;
• immersion depth - 4 cm.

Over the beds is lined with straw or sphagnum moss mulch with a layer up to 20 cm.

Spring work begins with harvesting mulch material before planting and growing. Next, fertilizers with nitroamofos are introduced twice (up to 15 g / m2). Irrigation is performed as needed. Begins to sprout actively in mid-April-early May. When the height of the feather reaches 20 cm, the crops are harvested from the beds.

Growing onions in a greenhouse

Mostovoy

This method of growing onions on a feather is used more often on balconies or in small greenhouses. The essence of the technology is to deepen the seedlings into the ground in one row at a minimum rate no head spacing... Thus, a bridge is obtained, which served as the name of the method.

For bridging cultivation, onions with a diameter of 3-5 cm are selected. Care includes watering and weeding. The soil must be constantly moist, it is important to water it on time in the right proportions.

From baits it is recommended to use:

• superphosphate and potassium chloride - 2 g / 10 l of water;
• ammonium nitrate.

Groundbaits are introduced on the 8th and 14th day of the growing season.

Bridge method of planting onion sets

When it rises

When growing seedlings in the open field during spring planting, seedlings appear above the soil surface for 9-11 days... If the planting work was carried out in October, then the first greens break through, depending on the weather conditions, more often this happens in early to mid-April.

Greenhouse cultivation also guarantees different periods of emergence of seedlings, which is due to the variety of construction and the thermal conductivity of its surfaces. In the most ordinary polycarbonate greenhouse, you can see the greenery breaking through from the ground in late February and early March.

When using the bridge method of growing seedlings, you can get the first shoots 5-6 days after disembarkation.

How to care and loosen

For the growing season, it is important to saturate the soil with oxygen, remove weeds from the beds, water the seedlings and introduce groundbait.

After the emergence of seedlings above the surface of the soil, it is necessary loosen the soil every 2 weeks in the beds to prevent the formation of an earth crust.

Loosening of the soil must be carried out every 2 weeks.

This process is often combined with weeding to remove weeds, which creates favorable conditions for disease and onion decay. In addition, such a neighborhood contributes to the formation of a thick neck, which subsequently complicates the drying of the crop.

Onions belong to crops that can do without baits, but this is the case when the soil is fertile. Many gardeners use a 2-3 time bait regime:

• 20-25 days after planting the seedlings, watering with a manure solution is carried out (1 kg per bucket of water);
• loose application of mineral fertilizers (urea, nitrophoska) before irrigation.

Watering of the beds is carried out with strict control of the degree of soil moisture... Lack of moisture is just as unacceptable as its abundance. If you carefully observe the plant, you can understand what the slightest changes indicate. The water should not be salty, if it gets dirty, you need to drain a little from the bucket.

The appearance of a gray-white tint on the leaves indicates insufficient watering, and the pallor of the feathers indicates an abundance of moisture. For the first couple of months, the seedlings are irrigated weekly (7-8 liters per 1 m2).Since July, the amount of water is reduced, and 3 weeks before harvest it stops altogether.

Strict control of soil moisture is extremely important

To protect against onion flies, it is recommended to use saline watering, which also stimulates plant growth.

200 grams of salt is taken per bucket of water, the amount of liquid is prepared at the rate of 300 ml per one bush. The procedure is repeated Once every 3 weeks... If the treatment proved to be ineffective, the concentration should be increased to 450 g / 10 l of water.

Is it afraid of frost and what temperature it can withstand

Onions are afraid of freezing and freezing temperatures at night. The temperature indicators of the air during planting should be within +12 degrees, soils at a depth of 10 cm - at least +5 degrees. Planting material germinates at 4-5 degrees... Mature onions of specially selected varieties can withstand frost down to -7 degrees, while sweet varieties die at -4 degrees.

When choosing a set, the climatic conditions of the region should be taken into account in order to give preference to the appropriate varieties.

Taking care of onions is quite simple if you perform the preparatory work correctly. Controlling the condition of the plant's feather will be a hint, and the action plan will not let you forget about important procedures that guarantee a high yield.