Red currant planting and care in the open field in the fall

It is difficult to imagine any garden plot without a currant bush. Red currant is a common shrub in the European part of Russia, with which only black currants, raspberries or gooseberries can compete in popularity. The unique ability of red currants to winter at a temperature of -45 ° C allowed it to conquer the vastness of Western and Eastern Siberia, as well as the regions of the Far East. Although red currants are planted a little less often than black currants, however, it is its fruits that contain pectin and coumarins, which prevent heart attacks and remove heavy metals from the body. Red currant fruits are an excellent product for making fruit drinks, compotes, jelly and wine. Of course, ideally, red currant berries, and any other berries, are best consumed fresh, as they say, from a bush, but the freezing method is also perfect for it, in which the berries retain the entire spectrum of vitamin substances.

Planting red currants

When is the best time to plant red currants? Currants are planted both in spring and autumn. But, due to the fact that the process of vegetation of currants in spring begins very early, it is better to plant it all the same in the fall.

It is advisable to plant a red currant shrub in slightly elevated, well-lit areas. This plant prefers loose loamy and sandy loam soils. It does not make high demands on nutrients in the soil, but with a significant lack of them, it can throw off some of the set fruits. When planning to start planting red currants in the fall, you need to take into account that they usually do this in September.

How to properly plant red currants in the fall? Planting should begin with the preparation of the landing pits. Three weeks before planting the shrub, it is necessary to dig a hole 40 cm deep and 60 cm wide. 2 buckets of humus are poured onto the bottom, a complex mineral fertilizer is added, covered with fertile soil and watered. This is done so that the soil is compacted.

After the time indicated above, immediately before planting, the roots of the bush are shortened, and the plant is buried 7-8 cm above the root collar and buried. This planting promotes the growth of additional basal buds, which are designed to form a lush bush.

It is important here to plant the bush in the upper, non-fertilized soil layer. Otherwise, the plant will immediately begin to build up green mass, and the fruiting process will slow down. The planted bushes are watered, the stems are trimmed, shortening them at a height of 25 cm from the ground with 3-4 buds. The soil around the bush is mulched with hay, straw, peat or dry leaves to retain moisture.

After planting, when the soil is slightly frozen, the red currant bushes are sprinkled with humus, which will protect the roots from moisture stagnation and serve as an additional shelter from frost.

The main points to follow when planting red currants:

• plant in early autumn;
• dig a hole 40x60 cm;
• fill up 2 buckets of humus;
• add mineral fertilizers;
• shorten the roots, leaving 30 cm;
• properly deepen the bush and bury;
• water abundantly;
• trim the stems, leaving 25 cm in length;
• to mulch;
• spud.

Red currant care

By providing the shrub with proper and competent care, you can achieve good yields that will delight their owners for 25 years.

After planting red currants, further care for it consists in weeding, mulching, watering and loosening the soil.

Red currants are drought-resistant, so regular abundant watering is not necessary for it. To preserve moisture in the soil, it is rare, but abundant, to water the bush and mulch the trunk circle.

Fertilizers applied when planting a bush will provide the plant with top dressing for two years, but over time, when the soil is depleted, additional nutrients will be required. Fertilizers are applied in the fall, in the form of manure or chicken droppings diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 and 1:20, which will penetrate deep into the soil with rains and melt water. Mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring - 80 g of ammonium nitrate per bush.

What is red currant pruning for?

Pruning is of great importance for red currants, which is aimed at the correct formation of the bush, increasing resistance to diseases and ensuring regular high yields, which does not allow the fruits to shrink.

In bushes of red currant, the shoot-forming ability is not clearly expressed, and the fruiting of its bouquet branches lasts up to 10 years. Based on this, the bushes do not need radical pruning. For the formation of currants, it is more important to maintain sufficient thickening, and regularly remove zero-order shoots, leaving literally a few branches to rejuvenate the bush.

If it was decided to grow red currants in a stem, then all zero shoots are removed, and a pinching is carried out with a growing shoot to stimulate branching and the formation of more ringlets (fruit branches). Regular pruning is carried out only if it is necessary to remove damaged, thickening and growing branches in the ground.

It should be firmly remembered that neglect of the pruning procedure can cause a significant decrease in yield and the appearance of diseases and pests on currants, which quickly spread in thickened stems.

Bushes should be constantly examined and cut branches affected by diseases and pests. For the prevention of diseases, it is recommended to treat the bush with 1% Bordeaux mixture a couple of weeks after flowering and after removing the fruits. Also, for pest control, it is good to use milk of lime with a solution of ferrous sulfate 4%. With this mixture, the bushes are processed in the spring until the buds open.

By following simple tips for planting and caring for red currants, you can grow a decent harvest from fruits rich in vitamins and please yourself and your loved ones with them.

Red currant varieties - video

Content:

1. Planting red currants.
2. Red currant care
3. Red currant pruning.
4. Formation of red currant bushes.

Red currant is a fast-growing and high-yielding crop. With good, careful care, up to 8 - 9 kg of berries are harvested from one bush. Red currant bushes are surprisingly resilient. Once planted in a garden, they can grow and bear fruit in one place for up to 25 years. It is only necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of a place for planting and to provide care for the plants.

Planting red currants

  When to plant. The best time for planting is the end of September for the middle lane and the first half of October for the southern regions. When planted later, young bushes may not overwinter well. For successful wintering, plants need to root well, and this takes time.

If it was not possible to plant seedlings in the fall, it is quite possible to do this in the spring - at the end of April. But I must say that the shrubs planted in the fall, with a successful winter, always outstrip the plants that were planted in the spring.

  Where to plant. It is recommended to plant currant bushes in open areas that are well lit by the sun. With insufficient lighting, crop yield decreases. For planting red currants, loose, light loamy, sandy loamy soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction are well suited.

It is desirable that the planting site is well ventilated, this will significantly reduce the risk of plant disease with all kinds of fungal diseases.

In general, this is an unpretentious culture, it adapts well to harsh climatic conditions. However, it does not take root in cold, heavily shaded, damp and wetlands.

    At what distance to plant seedlings. The largest yield is obtained when

It is better to plant bushes at a distance of two meters from each other.

planting bushes at a distance of about two meters from each other. Then the plants develop freely, without shading, and powerful healthy bushes grow. Growing on trellises also has a positive effect on yields. If you have chosen the trellis growing method, then you can plant seedlings much more often - after one meter. But still leave at least 1.5 m between the rows.

For planting currants, they often choose a place along the fence or paths. You should retreat from the fence and from the paths at least 1 m. While the seedlings are small, such distances may seem too wasteful, but when the bushes grow, they will take up almost all the free space. However, they will not interfere with each other, and it will be convenient for you to look after them.

  Landing pits. For planting, dig a planting hole 40 cm deep and 50 cm wide.Fold the upper, fertile soil with which you will cover the roots separately. Add a bucket of compost, a glass of superphosphate and a glass of ash to it. If there is no ash, then add 40-50 g of potassium chloride instead and mix it all well.

Landing scheme.

  Landing. Place the bush in a bucket of water for 2 to 3 hours before planting. After that, place the seedling in the planting hole and cover with the prepared nutrient mixture. Make sure that when planting, the root collar is 5 - 6 cm below the soil level. With such a deep planting, renewal shoots from the buds located in the zone of the root collar will grow better.

When planting, pay attention to the fact that no air bubbles remain under the roots. To do this, periodically shake and twitch the seedling. After the planting hole is filled up, make an edge around the bush, pour abundantly and mulch with peat or humus. After that, cut the branches to a length of 15-20 cm, leaving 3-4 buds on each. The first time after planting it is necessary to water the currants every 3-4 days until they are accepted.

Red currant care

Caring for red currants includes watering, feeding, caring for the near-stem circle and regularly pruning the bushes. If the bush is spreading, then you will have to make supports for the branches.

Barrel circle care

Loosen the soil around the bush regularly and remove weeds. Dig up the periphery of the trunk circle periodically. Do this very carefully, the roots of the currant are not deep and it is easy to damage them. Mulch under bushes with cut grass, leaves, or compost.

Watering

Red currant is a moderately moisture-loving plant. Most of all, regular watering is needed in the summer, in the heat. The plant will need a lot of moisture after flowering, when the berries begin to pour. To keep the ground in the near-trunk circle moist for a long time, do not forget about mulching. This simple and not tricky technique significantly reduces the time for caring for currants.A well-mulched trunk circle does not need weeding and loosening.

Feeding currants

An important element of caring for red currants is feeding. During the growing season, currants consume nutrients in the soil. To get good yields every year, these nutrients need to be replenished regularly. To do this, several times a year, it is necessary to give the plants mineral and organic fertilizing.

1. In the spring, per 1 m2 of land, add a mixture of 5 kg of compost, 20 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate. Apply 40-50 g of nitrogen fertilizer in early spring.
2. In the spring, you can fertilize the soil with urea (15 g per 1 m2) or ammonium nitrate (25 g per 1 m2). After flowering red currants, add 10 liters of liquid mullein or bird droppings solution.
3. In the fall, fertilize each bush with 100-120 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium chloride, and then mulch the trunk circle with a mixture of peat and rotted manure.

Red currant pruning

Good care of currants is not only feeding and watering, but also correct, timely pruning.

Trimming red currants is somewhat different from trimming its black cousin. Red

Red currant formed on a trunk.

fruit buds are formed at the base of annual shoots and on ringlets. Ringlets are small shoots on old currant branches, only 2 - 4 cm long. Therefore, the harvest is formed not only on young, but also on old branches. That is why rejuvenating pruning of red currants has to be done much less frequently than pruning of black currants.

Formed, an adult bush should consist of 15 - 20 branches of different ages. To do this, after planting a seedling, every year leave 2 - 3 young, strong shoots growing in different directions, and cut off the rest. Red currant shoots bear fruit for 6 - 8 years, then they must be replaced.

In adult bushes, broken off, drying out, old and low-yielding branches are cut off. Older branches are always darker, almost black and not difficult to identify. For lightening and thinning, branches are cut that grow from the base of the bush. Annual shoots cannot be cut off, since fruit buds are located on their tops.

Pruning should be done when plants are dormant, late autumn or early spring. In summer, it is advisable to pinch the tops of green shoots to activate the laying of replacement shoots.

Watch an interesting video about pruning and shaping currant bushes:

Formation of bushes on a trellis

Red currants can be easily formed as a trellis crop. Such bushes are easy and convenient to care for, they are well illuminated by the sun and get sick less. Forming such a bush, it is necessary to leave the shoots growing in only one plane, and cut off the rest. Then fix them on 2 - 3 rows of wire, as it is done with vines.

Bushes with such a shape are conveniently placed along walls and fences.

Shrubs with this shape are conveniently placed along walls, fences or along paths. Just remember to cut or break off shoots that are not growing in a given plane. In all other respects, the care is the same as for ordinary bushes.

Formation of standard currant

Some gardeners form red currants in standard form. Then it becomes like a dwarf tree. It turns out an original plant with large berries, which is pleasant and interesting to care for.

Formation of standard red currant.

To form such a tree near the bush, the most powerful, upright-growing shoot is chosen, and all the rest are cut off at the very ground. A stem is formed in this shoot, cutting off all branches growing below 30 - 50 cm, and the remaining ones are slightly shortened to provoke their branching.

Further pruning resembles tree care, branches growing inside the crown, downward and shoots older than seven years are cut. Of course, you must immediately remove the shoots growing from the base of the bush.

Wintering

In winter, care is not at all difficult. Red currant is a winter-hardy crop, however, in severe winters with strong winds and sharp temperature fluctuations, perennial branches can freeze in the plant.
If you cover the currants with snow, they will withstand temperatures as low as -40 - 45 ° C. Spring frosts pose a danger to the plant, during which flowers and ovary may die.

Care and pest control of fruit shrubs without chemicals:

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For a long time, red currant is considered a berry of health. Its bushes can reach a height of 1.5 meters and bear fruit for decades. Flowering of this variety begins towards the end of May. The berries are fully ripe in July.

Red currant varieties

The most common types of berries of relatively high winter hardiness are Gazelle, Houghton's Castle and Natalie. The first grade is medium early. Its berries are small in size with a characteristic sweet and sour taste. The second variety is a vigorous shrub with thick brown shoots. Its fruits are similar in taste and size to Gazelle berries. As for the Natalie variety, it is one of the latest. Its main advantage is its high yield.

One cannot ignore such a variety as Versailles red, which is very common in the Baltics. Its bushes begin to bloom at the end of April. It is distinguished by its wrinkled leaves and short branch length. The fruits are sweet.

The Dutch red is also very unpretentious to weather conditions. It is a very long-lived and fruitful variety that can produce crops for up to 30 years.

In Russia, another type of currant, brought back to the USSR from Britain, gained great popularity. This is a variety with the loud name Red Cross. The ideal place for its cultivation is the north of Kazakhstan. The berries of this variety weigh up to 1 g and taste like black currants. Bushes are spreading and medium-sized.

Soil for planting

Well-lit, open areas work best for red currants. If this condition is not met, then subsequently the berries will turn pale and lose their sweetness. Also, this variety prefers sandy, loose or loamy soils. In the event that the soil in the spring was very waterlogged or the place itself is low, it is recommended to plant currants in low beds. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral or weak.

Red currants are planted in autumn to a depth of 35 cm. It is important that the hole is at least 50 cm in diameter. To fertilize the soil, compost or rotted manure is used. However, gardeners recommend adding 50 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride (per 10 liters of liquid) to the mixture. It will be useful to fertilize the soil in the hole with diluted wood ash.

Preparation of seedlings

The optimal time for planting red currants is the first half of September. However, first you need to prepare seedlings at home. It is recommended to cut lignified cuttings at the end of August. The seedling should have 3-4 strong buds. The tip and base of the branch are cut off, and the middle will be used as a future sprout. Its length should not exceed 30 cm.The distance from the lowest bud to the edge is about 15 cm.

Place seedlings in pots (boxes) vertically. The soil should be loose and slightly damp. Pots with future shoots are placed in a well-lit place.After two weeks, the cuttings will have a root system, and they can be transferred to the ground. Planting time for red currants directly depends on the growth of the shoots indoors. It takes from 10 days to ripen the root system, so it is recommended to harvest them in advance - at the end of summer.

Planting red currants

At the first stage, you should choose a place open to light and fertilize it. As soon as the root system of young shoots is strengthened, they can be planted in the ground. Experienced gardeners advise doing this procedure in the first three weeks of September, although the period depends on the climate. If the air temperature is above +20 ° C and the sun is constantly shining, and frosts come only closer to February, then the autumn planting of red currants is allowed until mid-October.The main nuance in this simple matter is that the roots of the cuttings have time to harden well in the soil, otherwise they will not be able to survive in winter. It is also important here that the hole for the seedlings is appropriate. Practice shows that its depth and width should be at least 50 cm. Two-thirds of the hole is covered with mineral fertilizers and organic additives. The top layer must be fertile soil. Red currants will be planted in it in the fall.

At the stage of preparation of the shoots, they have already formed thin roots, but additional shoots are needed for the final consolidation in the soil. The scheme for planting red currants is as follows: cuttings are inserted into the previously fertilized soil at an angle of 45 degrees, then covered with earth and manure. It is worth paying attention to the color of the bark. If it is green or blackish, then the plant is infected or dries up, so it must be removed from the hole immediately.

2-week-old seedlings should not have leaves. If they appear, then they should be cut off so that all the juice and nutrients enter only the roots. Before the onset of the first frost, the plant must sit firmly in the ground.

Propagation by cuttings

It should be noted right away that red currants are much more capricious to such manipulations than black ones. Only young one- or two-year-old bushes are suitable for reproduction. Planting of red currants by cuttings is carried out in the first half of September. The length of the sprout should be about 25 cm. It is important that by the time the cutting is cut, the bush does not begin to dry out and is not infected. The sprouts are kept in the refrigerator for some time, wrapped in foil or covered with wet sand. Planting red currants in the fall allows them to be well rooted in the ground before the onset of frost and strong winds. However, some gardeners prefer to propagate the plant as early as April. The disadvantage of such a planting is that the sprouts can dry out quickly, since in summer the climate is hot and not suitable for the ripening of young shoots in the ground.

Before propagation, the cuttings must gain moisture. It is also important to refresh the lower cut (obliquely) before planting. In addition, it is recommended to make several shallow cuts at the base of the cutting, from which young roots will subsequently appear. Plant to a depth of 20-30 cm. For the winter, you can cover the beds with a layer of straw or sawdust.

Care of young sprouts

For the first 3 years, red currants should be fertilized abundantly, since the kidneys constantly need minerals. At this time, a root system is formed, which will subsequently hold the bush for decades. Caring for young shoots requires not only mineral fertilizers, but also organic ones. You should also promptly remove weeds from the soil, which take all the moisture from the currants and block the light from the roots. Supports are also important, which keep the branches at a level under the weight of the berries. In winter, it is necessary to tie the branches to the ground so that they do not break under the snowdrifts.

Pruning young bushes

Planting red currants in the fall involves removing unnecessary branches during the same period of time. According to gardeners, pruning should be carried out 3-5 years after planting. The ideal time for clearing the bush from thickening is the end of October.

Dry and infected branches are removed to the base. Young shoots are cut so that 2-3 strong buds remain on them. There should not be more than 2 young shoots on one base.

A cut with a diameter of 8 mm or more must be lubricated with a special solution so that fungus does not form on the hemp.

Why do you need red currants?

The berries of this plant are primarily useful for their vitamins A, B, C, E, H and PP. Also, the red currant contains beta-carotene, ash, iron, phosphorus, potassium, sodium and many other mineral components. Its berries do not contain a lot of fat, so they are considered dietary. The calorie content of 100 g is only 39 cal. Most of all in red currant carbohydrates and provitamin A.The berries of this plant are useful for atherosclerosis, anemia, diabetes, bowel problems and other common diseases.

The breakdown of a new garden usually takes place in 2 stages: first, planting red currants, gooseberries and other berry bushes, then placing apple trees, pears, cherries. This sequence can be understood: the trees will bear fruit only after a few years, and you will taste the berries much earlier. In a year, it will be possible to saturate the body with vitamins, prepare compotes, jellies and desserts. You can plant exotic fruit crops in the country, breeders are constantly improving varieties, adapting them to any conditions. Only growing and caring for foreigners will take so much time and effort that it is easier to purchase them in the supermarket.

Why do we need red currants in the garden

This shrub must be in every summer cottage. The main concern of the gardener is to plant red currants, the rest of the care is simple, it can be entrusted even to teenagers and retirees. It is one of the earliest and longest-bearing berries. If you choose the right varieties for ripening, the plants will supply you with delicious berries from June to autumn.

Due to the rich set of vitamins, biologically active substances, antioxidants and trace elements, red currant is widely used in folk medicine and cosmetology. During the period of colds, doctors recommend using lemons and other citrus fruits. We do not know how exotic fruits were grown and stored, with what chemicals they were processed. You have a wonderful substitute at your fingertips - a healthy and vitamin sweet and sour berry.

In the refrigerator at a temperature of about + 2⁰, the fruits can be stored for 2 weeks or more, it all depends on the variety. In summer, you can cook refreshing compotes from berries, and make many blanks for the winter. Juice with sugar turns into jelly without any thickeners. Prepare as much of this delicacy as possible, in winter a few teaspoons of the thick mass will saturate your body with vitamins, and in the spring you will not feel any traditional blues. Natural red currant marmalade will replace store-bought sweets for kids, saturated with palm oil, preservatives and other harmful ingredients. For adults, you can make an excellent natural wine from berries.

Unpretentious vitamin berry

Red currants fell in love with gardeners for their tasty early berries and easy care for a long-lived shrub. Carefully choose a place for planting, the plant can bear fruit for up to 25 years, and it will be very sorry to destroy it if you decide to build some kind of building on this site. Do not believe the statements that old bushes have small berries and a low yield. This happens among summer residents, who forget that nutrients themselves are not formed in the soil, they need to be constantly added. Feed your green pets, in gratitude they will feed you.

The shrub is not afraid of frosty winters; with the right approach, it can be grown in all regions. Red currant contains phytoncides, it is resistant to many diseases, and pests do not like it very much. The antibacterial properties of berries are known to many housewives; they often put ripe brushes in various pickles and marinades for better preservation of the contents of the jars. In order not to get problems with the bushes, provide them with simple care and do not forget about preventive measures.

Already in June, the fruits begin to ripen. Depending on the variety, the berries are large and small, sour and sweet. Do not plant the entire site with one favorite species, create variety. With cross-pollination, the yield will be richer and the quality of the fruit is better.

Here are some varieties of berry crops, the cultivation of which is recommended for central Russia.

• Natalie. The variety was recognized by northern gardeners for its frost resistance and high yield. Berries weighing up to 0.5 g ripen in July.
• Rondom. Drought-resistant variety with large late-ripening fruits. The fruits do not crumble for a long time, they are well stored. Disadvantage: shrub propagates poorly by cuttings.
• Dutch red. The plants are drought tolerant and yield good yields. The bush is compact, growing in height. Medium-sized berries ripen at the end of July.
• Versailles red is famous for its large berries - up to 1.5 g. Fruiting in July.
• Roland. Produces up to 7 kg of fruits per plant. Already in the third year, it reaches full yield. Does not require thinning. Each cluster has up to 30 berries with an average weight of 0.7 g.
• Rosetta. The bush grows very quickly. Shoots are directed vertically, do not occupy a large area. Growing on trellises is possible. Fruits ripen t late, in the second half of July.

Advertising publications spread a sensation about the Dragon's Eye variety. Bushes without shelter can withstand frosts down to -50⁰, spring frosts up to -15⁰ do not harm the ovaries. Fruits the size of a cherry can hang on the bushes for a long time, do not crumble. The plant is not affected by diseases. The comments indicate that the breeders clearly flattered themselves, this species does not have any special advantages.

Advice

When a new variety with wonderful qualities is advertised, do not rush to purchase it, often gardeners write in reviews that they did not notice the promised advantages. This is due to the deception of the sellers and the fact that the plant is not suitable for the conditions of your area. Before buying, ask neighbors and acquaintances what varieties they like.

What conditions will red currants like

If you want to feast on sweet berries, the cultivation of red currants should be carried out in sunny areas. The soil should be light and loose. Loams and sandy loams are well suited. The reaction is desirable slightly acidic, but if the acidity is increased, lime must be added during planting. The plant does not tolerate groundwater; in damp areas, it is necessary to arrange an embankment or make drainage. Arid hills are not terrible for the plant, its thick roots with many long shoots will find moisture.

The bushes will not like the cold north and north-east winds. The best geographic location for her is the southern slope of the hill. On flat terrain, buildings, fences or tall, dense plantations can provide protection. Often, red currants thrive where other berries cannot grow.

Red currant is convenient because it is easy to find a place for it. The bush does not occupy a large area; a number of plants can be planted on a narrow strip of land next to buildings or a fence. The culture is suitable for landscaping: brightly colored leaves with bunches of red berries will liven up any boring landscape. You can use the planting for a hedge or as a backdrop for a flower bed with light flowers. Initially, the cultivation of this crop was carried out not for fruitful, but for decorative purposes.

The distance between the bushes should be at least a meter, then they will have enough light and space.If the red currant grows on the north side of tall trees, the crown will block out the sun. Plant it at least 3 m away from tree species. This rule must be observed when planting shrubs along buildings and fences.

Shrub planting

Seedlings can be purchased from nurseries or specialist centers. If you liked the red currants from your neighbors or friends, you can get the planting material yourself using layering or cuttings. If you want to root an already developed plant, separate part of the bush. Use a sharp shovel to chop off a fragment of the rhizome with shoots and transplant it to a new location. Give your mind more careful care until the plant takes root.

Planting red currants begins in early autumn, preferably in September, so that the seedlings have time to take root and grow stronger by the cold. It can be planted in the spring, but you need to catch it before the buds swell. Half a month before planting, dig holes with a diameter of 0.6 m and a depth of 0.4 m. Put about 10 kg of humus with ash on the bottom. Add sand to heavy soil. Pour a layer of earth on top. If the roots are laid directly in a fertile composition, there will be too many leaves - to the detriment of fruiting. The device of holes must be carried out in advance so that the soil has time to settle.

In the morning, place the root system of the bush in a clay mess and hold it there for several hours. The underground part will be saturated with water and will quickly sprout new processes. It is better to place the seedlings obliquely, then they will quickly begin to develop lateral root processes. Do not trample or ram the earth, pour 5 liters of water into the hole, the liquid will compact the soil by itself. If the roots are bare during watering, add soil. Cut off the branches of the seedling so that 3-4 buds remain on them. Mulch the hole with a thick layer of sawdust or peat, then caring for the plants will become much easier.

Advice

Stick the cut off healthy twigs into the ground to a depth of 3 buds. Most of the cuttings will take root and form the basis of new shrubs.

Berry crop care

Caring for the shrub is simple, black currants require more attention than red ones. Watering is needed only in dry weather. Do not moisten the soil only from the top, this will not be of any benefit. The correct option is about 5 buckets of water for the plant. If there is no rain during flowering and fruit development, pour 2 buckets of water under the bush every week. To freshen the leaves, spray them in the evening with a spray bottle. If you are too lazy to mulch the hole, in the summer you will have to fight weeds and loosen the ground.

When a shrub grows in one place for many years, it draws nutrients from the ground. With proper dressing, there will be no decrease in yield. In the fall, add 0.5 buckets of compost under each bush, adding 25 g of superphosphate and potassium fertilizers to it. In the spring, throw 25 g of ammonium nitrate under the plants. After flowering during the period of fruit formation, feed with organic matter.

Advice

When choosing fertilizers, pay attention to their composition. If chlorine is present, the currant preparation is not suitable.

In order for the bush to give a good harvest in the summer, you need to provide it with comfortable conditions. As soon as the ground thaws, do spring plant care:

1. remove last year's leaves and other debris from the hole;
2. loosen the ground;
3. prune dry, broken and diseased branches;
4. install supports under the large processes so that they do not lie on the ground, but stretch up and are well illuminated by the sun.

In the fall, you need to prepare the bushes for winter. Remove excess shoots so that the bush is not too thick. The optimal number is 10 trunks. If the growth is too dense, the number of berries will decrease. Branches after 7 years are considered old, they must be removed. Do not touch young sprouts, the next year they will appear berries. After cutting off too thick branches, treat the cuts with garden pitch.

Dig the ground to a shallow depth and slightly huddle the base of the bush. As soon as it snows, pour a snowdrift onto the plant.Although red currant is a frost-resistant crop, insulation will not harm it. In the coldest regions, you need to wrap all the shoots with straw, spruce branches or covering material. In the spring, all protective structures and embankments must be removed.

Diseases and pests of red currant

Good immunity and phytoncides protect red currants from diseases and pests, but sometimes there are problems with it. This often happens with bushes that are not properly cared for. In order not to engage in complex treatment and control of insects, do not let them develop. Examine the bushes and immediately remove any suspicious branches. All cut fragments must be burned to destroy the infection. Disinfect tools.

One of the preventive measures is to remove excess shoots in time so that the bush is well ventilated and illuminated by the sun. Prevent weeds from growing as they trap airflow and provide shelter for pests. A layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 5 cm will eliminate this problem. When mulching, do not forget to ensure that the root collar does not end up underground.

Each chemical has its own requirements for the time span from processing to harvesting. In order not to water the already set berries with harmful solutions, pour over the bushes immediately after removing the damaged branches.

• 10 g of colloidal sulfur dissolved in 10 liters of water will help from a kidney mite.
• From currant aphids and powdery mildew - nitrafen solution at a concentration of 8%.
• From anthracnose in the spring, pour fungicides over the bush and the ground.

Advice

No need to blindly trust advertising claims that your chosen variety is resistant to anthracnose or powdery mildew, they do not always correspond to the truth. Do not forget to inspect the plants and take preventive measures.

Don't forget about biological methods of defense. Honey plants will attract predatory insects to the garden. Calendula between bushes will ward off ticks. Infusions of hogweed, mustard, garlic, tobacco can be used against infections and pests without fear that the fruits will absorb toxic substances.

Conclusion

The most convenient berry crop for growing in the country is red currant. A compact bush does not take up much space, does not impose special requirements on climatic conditions and soil. Add in easy maintenance, longevity and high yields, and you will understand that this plant is simply necessary for you.

The sweetness of the berries depends not only on the variety, but also on the lighting. The more sun, the more useful sugars. In order for the bushes to have enough strength to develop a large number of fruits, do not forget about top dressing. The roots cannot absorb dry fertilizer. Give your red currants enough moisture and a rich harvest will be guaranteed.

Berries are not only tasty, they are filled with useful components and vitamins. In winter, red currants will saturate the body with ascorbic acid, during the period of colds and epidemics it will protect against infection. Prepare jelly, marmalades, compotes, we can rightfully say about this berry: eat it for health!