Kobeya planting and care in the open field in the Urals

Gardeners decorate gazebos, terraces, fences, verandas with climbing plants, they are used to decorate a vertical object. Which of them will not be extremely difficult to care for and at the same time ennoble the site? A good solution for a grower would be a kobei growing from seeds at home. The most dull manor, colored by the shoots of this beautifully blooming liana, will acquire an aesthetic, well-groomed appearance.

Description of kobei and botanical features

Cobaea is a clinging or climbing shrub of the Polemoniáceae family. She comes from Mexico, known in Europe since 1787. The vine owes its name to the Jesuit monk Barnabas Kobo.

A natural scientist who lived in Peru liked its flowers, which are similar in shape to bells. In memory of the bells of Cantenbury, the Jesuit planted a vine on his site, and since then the wild perennial has become a garden plant. Other names for kobei are "monastery bells", "Mexican ivy".

Kobeya has an unusual flowering. Dissolving, its bell-shaped flowers have a white-greenish tint. Then they become purple, white. The diameter of the flowers reaches 8 cm, the pedicels are long. They are located in the axils of the leaves one by one or in groups of 2 - 3 flowers.

Amazing long stamens that make up a lush bunch. With five wavy filaments, twisting at the ends covered with pollen, they curiously look out of their bell.

The life of a blossoming flower is short enough. But each faded is replaced by a new bud. And the liana, with the simultaneous presence of white, pale lilac, dark purple flowers on it, will flaunt the entire summer period until the frosts in the fall.

Before the flowering period, the kobei is also not devoid of decorativeness. It attracts with feathery leaves folded with butterfly wings, against the dark green background of which cherry veins scatter. The shoots at the end are modified: with branched cherry-brown antennae, the plant is strengthened to any support.

In the presence of a powerful, branched root system with many thin fibrous roots, the kobei is distinguished by its rapid growth.During the season, from a small shoot, the plant turns into a multi-meter liana from 6m in length.

With the flowering of kobei, elongated fruits appear, similar to a plum or a cucumber. The leathery seed pods contain large flat-round seeds (15 seeds per gram).

Using kobei

The decorativeness of the liana is its indisputable advantage. The plant is prized for its wide range of uses:

1. The curly beauty will cover the house with a green wall or disguise an unsightly structure.
2. Kobeya will be an excellent element of a hedge.
3. A green arch made of graceful lianas is a unique element of the manor's decor.
4. Blooming kobei are planted in a flower bed with petunias, verbena, lobelia.
5. The gazebo, covered with fragrant lashes of a plant, will turn into a fabulous resting place.

A charming decoration will be a kobei for a balcony, loggia. In order for the vines to look like a beautiful curtain, the plant needs to be protected from wind, cold and direct sunlight.

Growing kobei in Siberia, Ukraine, the Urals

Distinguished by a great love for warmth and sun, kobea grows well in the southwestern Russian lands, in Ukraine. It is grown quite successfully in the central and northwestern regions of Russia, in the Urals (Middle and South), in Siberia (in the climate of temperate latitudes).

In regions with a cold climate, the heat-loving vine often does not have time to give ripe seeds. Therefore, an exotic plant is usually grown as an annual.

Reproduction is possible by cuttings, planting seeds in open ground. But, characterized by a long vegetative period, the kobea grows better and blooms faster through its cultivation from seeds at home.

Kobeya photo

Kobei growing from seeds at home

How and when to sow seeds

Sowing seeds of kobei for seedlings begins in February, by the middle of the month. In warm climates, it is better to plant them in early to mid-March so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

Vine seeds are characterized by tight germination. They are pre-soaked and treated with Fitosporin for the prevention of diseases. A shallow container (you can use a saucer) is covered with a cloth soaked in potassium permanganate or a growth stimulator ("HB-1", "Epin").

Then the planting material is laid out at a distance on the fabric, covered with polyethylene. After the "greenhouse" is placed in a warm place (not lower than 20 degrees), making sure that no mold appears on the seeds. If there is sticky mucus, they are washed in running water, changing the fabric.

Large seeds will take a week to hatch, small seeds will take a long time. With the appearance of white roots, the seeds are laid out with an edge in a container to a depth of 1.5 cm. The soil for seedlings should be light, loose.

On a note! You can plant each seed in a separate peat pot (tablet), pre-moistened. This will protect the sprouts from possible damage when diving.

For germination, containers with planting material are kept in a warm place. To maintain the humidity level, cover with foil.

Features of seedling care

The first shoots are expected 2-3 weeks after sowing the seeds. The containers with them are placed in a very sunny place. The air temperature must be at least 16 degrees.

A pick on separate containers is carried out with the formation of two true leaves. A peat tablet with a sprouted seed is placed in a large pot, filling the voids with universal soil.

It is advisable to use voluminous three-liter pots: the space contributes to the development of a powerful root system and the growth of strong lashes.

It must be remembered: in the future, the sprouts of the kobei will need support. In order not to damage the roots, it is better to put it in advance (metal, plastic ladder).

Watering the seedlings is carried out systematically - as soon as the soil begins to dry out. Excessive moisture is harmful because provokes putrefactive root diseases. Periodically, seedlings should be sprayed with warm water, preventing the appearance of spider mites.

Containers with sprouts should be placed at a distance so that the vines do not intertwine: this will make it difficult to transplant them to the site. To stimulate the development of lateral shoots, pinching is done to unnecessarily long lashes.

For the growth of shoots, the seedlings are fertilized with Baikal humate. Three weeks before planting the seedlings on the site, they begin to harden it, taking it out to a sunny place at colder temperatures (on a glazed balcony).

Planting kobei seedlings in open ground

If you overexpose seedlings in a pot, they will begin to drag heavily, making it difficult to plant in open soil. However, you should make sure that the frost has already passed: temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius can destroy the kobei.

It is preferable to plant seedlings in a permanent place on the site in early June. In the southern regions, it is permissible to plant seedlings in mid-May, then the kobea will bloom earlier.

When determining a place for planting kobei, they are guided by the following selection conditions:

• the plant needs abundant sunlight;
• kobea prefers fertile, light, permeable soils;
• purposes of use: decorating arches, facades, gazebos, etc.

It should also be borne in mind that plants are sensitive to drafts, especially to the cold northeast wind.

Kobeya develops well on loamy and sandy loam lands. The pigmentation of the flower depends on the acidity of the soil: an increased level is detected by the reddish shades of the flower cups. Calcareous lands are manifested by the blue tones of kobei flowers.

Before planting, pits are prepared for the seedlings, placing them 50 - 70 cm apart. For soil fertility, granular superphosphate or a special mineral fertilizer is added to each hole. The soil mixture is made up of peat, humus, coarse sand, sod land.

The land in which the seedling is located is first watered well, then the seedling with a lump of "native" soil is rooted in the open ground. The planted shoots are shed again, then mulching is carried out using dry grass, hay, sawdust.

Important: for the first time, the young vine must be covered with a double layer of film or lutrasil. This will help the plant to take root and prevent it from freezing.

Covering young shoots is also necessary in case of prolonged rains, cold weather. If the tops of the plant are still frozen, it is recommended to pinch it so that new shoots will grow. With the established warm weather, the film is removed from the vines.

Kobe care

Kobei formation

The plant begins to form after planting seedlings. Young shoots are tied to support nets or pegs. The periodically growing parts of the vine must be tied up so that the cobea does not entangle neighboring plants.

In order to obtain more branched shoots, pinch the liana. To preserve a well-groomed appearance, dried flowers are removed in a timely manner.

Watering kobei

Kobeya is distinguished by the intensity of growth, so she needs regular watering and nutrients. In particular, it is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture on dry summer days. Timeliness of watering will save the plant from overheating of the roots and loss of flowers.

It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that water does not stagnate at the roots when watering: the root system with an excess of moisture is attacked by fungal bacteria. It is also recommended to mulch the trunks with any organic material.

Top dressing kobei

During vegetative development, to build up green mass, a creeping annual for the first time (at the end of May - mid-June) is fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen. Further, alternating dressings are carried out using organic ("Ideal", "Zaslon", "Rainbow") and mineral fertilizers ("Kemir") with phosphorus and potassium. During the development of creeper shoots, feeding is done four times.

It should be taken into account: before flowering, nitrogen fertilization is not recommended, since the plant does not go into color, but into greenery.

Weeding, loosening the soil

Like all garden plants, kobee needs weeding to prevent weed infections and pests from spreading. Loosening the soil at the roots facilitates air access to them, allows excess moisture to evaporate.

Preparing kobei for wintering

Before the onset of autumn frosts, the kobei is harvested. You can try to keep it as a perennial. To do this, the lashes are cut off, the plant itself is dug up by the root. Then they are placed in containers and stored in cool places (cellar, basement). In the spring, a successfully overwintered kobei is brought out into the sun, increasing watering. It is necessary to plant in open ground by the end of May.

Kobei diseases and pests

A tropical plant, the kobea is prone to frequent illnesses. Excess moisture and lack of drainage is manifested by root rot. Black spots appear on the leaves and flowers. The affected plant parts should be removed immediately. The land is treated with insecticidal preparations (Ridomil Gold MC, Hom).

Of the pests for the plant, the most dangerous are aphids, spider mites. Their destruction is carried out by means of treatment with insecticidal agents ("Decis", Aktellik "," Inta-Virom "). Spraying with liquid potassium green soap will help, use a zooshampoo for fleas.

Pests are removed using biological agents. Plants affected by aphids are sprayed with coniferous infusion: for 500 g of needles, 2 liters of water, leave for a week. Mustard powder is used: 10 grams per liter of water, stand for 2 days. The solution is made at the rate of a glass of infusion for 9 liters. Infusions of celandine, marigolds, dope, tomato tops, garlic, tobacco are effective. Spider mites can be removed by processing with infusions of henbane, dandelion, chamomile, tobacco.

Preventive regular inspection of the shoots will prevent the mass defeat. Yellowing leaves, slow growth of shoots, poor flowering, the appearance of spots unusual for liana, cobweb formations are signs of a disease of a kobei.

Kobei species

It is known about 9 plant species that are widespread in natural conditions in the humid tropical, subtropical forests of America. In horticulture, the climbing cobea (Cobaea scandens) or tenacious is cultivated.

Cobaea scandens

cobaea_scandens

Plant varieties differ in white ("Wedding Bells"), wine-white, purple, lilac, burgundy, lilac color of flowers.

Kobeya is a plant that is very responsive to good care. She will thank the caring owner with the luxurious splendor of the vines and the exotic beauty of her flowers.

Video tips: sowing kobei seeds at home

Cobaea is a perennial climbing semi-shrub, cultivated as an annual. It is a representative of the Sinyukhovye family. The Jesuit monk-naturalist Barnabas Kobo lived for many years in Mexico and Peru (the homeland of the Kobei), it was in honor of him that the name of the liana was given. In the natural environment, Kobei grows in the tropics and subtropics of South and North America. It has been cultivated since 1787. Liana is popularly called monastery bells, Mexican ivy.

Botanical description

In the natural environment, there are 9 species of kobei, and only one is cultivated - climbing or tenacious, creeping kobei (Cobaea scandens). The root system of the plant is powerful, well-branched, has numerous thin fibrous roots, due to which the growth rate of the vine is fast. Kobei reaches a length of more than 6 m. The leaves are whole-cut, oval, arranged oppositely, some young leaves can be cut into 3 lobes with sharp tops.

Numerous antennae located throughout the stem help the liana to cling to the supports and climb up. Large flowers are bell-shaped, reach a diameter of 8 cm, elongate on long pedicels in the axils of the leaves singly or 2-3 pieces. Corollas are colored pink, lilac, violet. Curled stamens grow from the center of the corolla, giving the flowers originality. Flowering begins in June and lasts until the first frost.The fruits are a leathery capsule that opens along the side seams. Seeds are large, flat, oval in shape.

The white kobei (Cobea scandens alba) is a tenacious kobei subspecies with snow-white flowers.

Growing kobei from seeds at home

Kobei seeds photo

Seed and vegetative propagation (by cuttings) is possible. In our latitudes, sowing seeds in open ground is not advisable, it is necessary to grow seedlings. Stock up on sufficient seed as seed germination is about 30%.

When to sow kobei for seedlings

Sprouted Kobei seeds photo

Start sowing kobei for seedlings from late February to mid-March.

• Soak the seeds in a growth stimulant solution for several hours.
• Better to plant one seed at a time in an individual cup.
• A universal seedling substrate is suitable.
• Place the seeds with the flat side down, sprinkle with 1.5 cm of soil and spray with a spray bottle.
• Expect emergence of seedlings 2-3 weeks.

How to grow kobei seedlings at home, the video will tell:

To make the seeds germinate faster:

The seeds are covered with a dense shell. To get seedlings faster, you should get rid of it or germinate the seeds first.

1. To remove the shell, spread the seeds along the bottom of a wide plastic container so that they do not touch each other. Pour in some warm water, cover with a lid. When the crust becomes mucus, gently remove by mechanical means the part that easily peels off. It will take 2-3 days to completely get rid of the peel.
2. In order for the seeds to hatch, it is necessary to fold ordinary toilet paper in several layers, moisten abundantly with warm water and spread the kobei seeds over the surface, avoiding the seeds from touching each other. Place the seed paper in a horizontal position in a transparent bag and keep it under bright light. Germination will take about 2 weeks. Do not be alarmed if the seeds become moldy - wash them lightly with warm water, change the paper and the bag with new ones.

Further sowing is carried out in the same way as described above.

Seedling handling and hardening

Kobei from seeds photo shoots

• In order for the seedlings to have the opportunity to develop the root system well, with the appearance of 2 true leaves, they should be transferred with an earthen clod into separate pots with a volume of 3 liters.
• Set up a metal or plastic ladder to keep the plants in the light.
• In this form, start hardening: take the liana to a balcony or loggia, where the kobeya should spend about 3 weeks before planting in open ground.

How to handle kobei seedlings, we look at the video:

When and how to plant kobei seedlings in the ground

Do not overexpose the vine in the pot. When the threat of frost has passed and the night air temperature is + 5ºC, you can plant it in open ground (late May-early June). If you are afraid of the return of cold weather, after planting, you can cover the kobei with non-woven material for a while.

Seedling kobei from seeds photo

Keep a distance of 0.5-1 m between plantings. Dig the planting holes slightly larger than the size of the earthen clod. Pass the liana, fill up the earth, tamp a little, water abundantly. Immediately install a support for the creeper - an arch, a fence.

It is better to choose an area with good lighting for planting, light shading is allowed. You need a secluded place without strong winds. The soil is required fertile, loose. Planting holes can be covered with a mixture of humus, sod land, peat.

Video about the further growth of kobei in the ground:

Reproduction of kobei by cuttings

Unfortunately, in our climatic conditions, the seeds of kobei do not have time to ripen. Purchase them annually from flower shops. In order to propagate kobei by cuttings in the spring, try saving the vine growing in your garden until spring. To do this, cut off the shoots at the beginning of October, carefully dig up the bush, transfer it into a box or large flowerpot.It is necessary to store the plant in a room with an air temperature not exceeding 12º C - in the basement, cellar.

To prevent the clod from drying out, water it a little every 3-4 weeks. From the end of February, move the plant to a warm, bright room, gradually increase watering. Cut and root the cuttings from young shoots, return the mother plant to open ground.

• Cut off top shoots 10-12 cm long and root in wet sand, pre-treated with a growth stimulant.
• To create a greenhouse effect, the cuttings are covered with either plastic cups, jars, or bags.
• You need to ventilate daily, moisturize moderately so that there is no rot.
• High air temperatures will be destructive, 22-24 ° C is enough.
• When young shoots appear, you can gradually accustom the plants to the air, removing the shelter.
• Before planting in the ground, the rooted seedlings are hardened in a shady place in the garden, and with the onset of heat at the end of May they are planted in the ground.

How to care for a kobe in the garden

Watering and loosening the soil

Water regularly, more abundantly in dry weather. The soil should be constantly slightly moist, but be careful with watering, especially if the vine grows in the shade - excess moisture leads to the appearance of root rot.

Loosen the soil regularly, remove weeds.

Top dressing

The first feeding must be carried out in the first days of life - with the appearance of 2 leaves, add humate. After planting in open ground, apply top dressing every 7 days, alternating mineral fertilizers with organic matter. Before budding begins, add more nitrogen, and then phosphorus and potassium.

Diseases and pests

Spider mites or aphids can settle on the liana. It is necessary to spray with a solution of green potassium soap, a pet flea shampoo is suitable. For the final disposal of pests, treat with an insecticide.

Kobei in landscape design photo

Kobea white in the photo variety White Cathedral Bells

Kobeya photo of flowers in the garden

Kobeya climbing photo in the garden on a vertical support

Kobeya purple photo of flowers in the garden

Liana kobea (Cobaea) is a climbing dwarf shrub, which is an annual and belongs to the cyanose family. Gardeners cultivate it as an annual plant. This vine was named after Barnabas Kobo, who was a naturalist monk and lived in the plant's homeland (Peru and Mexico) for several years. In nature, kobei can be found in the humid tropical and subtropical forests of North and South America. Such a plant has been cultivated since 1787, while it is most often used for vertical gardening of arbors or hedges.

Kobei features

This plant is fast growing. In this regard, its branched root system is very strong and has many thin fibrous roots. Shoots can be up to 6 meters long, and even in some cases much more. The composition of the next complex-pinnate spectacular leaf plates includes only 3 lobes. At the tips of the stems, the leaves change and become branched antennae, which help the shrub to climb up the support, clinging to it with their help. Large flowers are bell-shaped and reach a diameter of 8 centimeters, their pistil and stamens are protruding. The flowers have long stalks and grow from the leaf axils in groups of 2 or 3, or they grow singly. When the flowers are just starting to open, they are colored yellowish green. And after full disclosure, the flowers change their color to white or purple. The fruit is a leathery capsule that opens along the side seams. Inside it are large, flat, oval seeds.

Growing kobei from seeds

Sowing

It is not so easy to grow a kobei from seeds, but it is quite possible. The fact is that the shell of large seeds is distinguished by a high density, which greatly complicates the appearance of sprouts.Therefore, before sowing, such a shell must be dissolved to such a state that it looks like mucus, and then removed by hand. To do this, you need to spread the seeds on the bottom of the container, which should be wide enough, while taking into account that they should not come into contact with each other. Pour water into the container and close it very tightly with a lid to prevent evaporation of the liquid. From time to time, it is necessary to check the seeds and at the same time remove the sagging part of the shell, and then lower them again into the container. As a rule, it takes several days to completely clear the seeds from the shell.

For seedlings, this plant should be sown in February or the first days of March. For sowing, it is recommended to use individual, not very large cups, in which one seed is placed, thus you do not have to injure young plants during a dive. To plant seeds, it is recommended to use a universal soil. The seed must be laid on the surface of the soil, while the flat side must be turned down, and then sprinkled on top of it with a layer of the same soil mixture, the thickness of which should be 15 millimeters. Seedlings appear after a different amount of time. If you properly prepared the seeds and completely removed the entire shell, then the seedlings may appear after half a month.

Seedling

When the seedlings grow up a little, and they have 2 true leaf plates, they should be dived together with a lump of earth in containers, which should have a volume of about three liters. This will create a strong root system and powerful stems. During transplanting, do not forget to put special ladders made of metal or plastic in the container, in this case the seedling will grow using it as a support. At the same time, you should begin to harden the seedlings. To do this, the plant is transferred to a loggia or balcony, which must be insulated or, in extreme cases, glazed. The plants will stay here before transplanting, while slowly getting used to the cold air. As a rule, three weeks of hardening is enough to get the plants fully accustomed to the outdoor climate. Then you can start planting grown and matured seedlings in open ground.

Landing in open ground

What time to plant

Seedlings are transplanted into open soil in May or at the beginning of June, while the frost should be left behind. And the night temperature should not be less than 5 degrees. However, it is impossible to delay planting for too long, because in this case the plants will outgrow, and transplanting into the garden will become much more complicated.

Disembarkation

First, decide on the place where the kobei will grow. For them, it is recommended to choose a well-lit place with nutritious soil. However, such a flower can also be grown in a shaded area. It should be noted that this shrub must be protected from the cold wind. First you need to prepare the landing pits, the distance between which should be from 50 to 100 centimeters. They need to pour a loose soil mixture consisting of humus, peat and sod land. In them it is necessary to lower the plant along with a lump of earth, bury it and water it well. Immediately next to the bushes, you need to put a support (arch or fence), since the growing shrub must climb it, and not along the bushes or trees located nearby. In the event that the threat of frost still remains, then the plant will need to be covered for a while with a non-woven covering material folded in 2 layers.

Care features

Kobei should be watered systematically, while watering should be more abundant during a long dry period. But it should be borne in mind that if the liquid stagnates in the roots, this will provoke the development of rot. You need to be especially careful in watering if the shrub grows in a shaded place.

At the beginning of active growth, such a plant needs frequent feeding, which is carried out once a week, and for this it is recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers. During budding, the kobe will need potassium and phosphorus. They begin to feed the plant almost immediately after the appearance of seedlings. Then when the first leaf is formed in the plant, it will need to be fed with humate. After that, the kobei is fed alternately with mineral fertilizers (for example, Kemir) and organic matter (mullein infusion) until the very beginning of flowering. In order for the vine to develop and grow normally, you need to systematically loosen the surface of the soil and pull out weeds.

How to propagate

As mentioned above, kobei can be grown from seed, and can also be propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are taken from uterine bushes, which must stay indoors all winter. When the active growth of young shoots begins in the spring, some of them can be cut off and stuck into moistened sand for rooting. The rooted cutting should be transplanted into open soil in the last days of May or the first in June. Such plants begin to bloom somewhat faster than those grown from seed, but at the same time their flowering is not lush and not so beautiful.

Pests and diseases

Aphids and ticks can settle on the plant. To get rid of such insects, it is necessary to treat the plant with a solution consisting of phytoverm and potassium green soap. Instead of green soap, you can take flea shampoo for animals (it is also used to combat other pests).

After flowering

Seed collection

Flowering begins in July and ends with the onset of frost. In middle latitudes, such a shrub is grown as an annual, which means that it should be burned in autumn. Seeds in mid-latitudes do not have time to ripen, so they will have to be purchased again at the store for sowing next year. It should be borne in mind that even if you buy seeds of a well-known brand in a store, their germination rate will not be higher than 30 percent.

Wintering

If you wish, you can try to keep the grown kobei until next year. In October, you should cut off all the stems from the bush, carefully dig it and plant it in a large box or flowerpot. You need to store such a plant in a cool, dark place, while the temperature should not exceed 12 degrees. So, a basement or cellar is perfect for storage. Make sure that the substrate does not dry out; for this, water it once every 20-30 days. In the last days of February, the first - March, the bush should be rearranged in a bright and warm place and watering should be gradually increased. The bush is planted in the garden only after the threat of frost has completely passed.

Main types and varieties with photos

Tenacious kobea, or climbing kobea, creeping kobea (Cobaea scandens)

This species is the only one that is cultivated. Moreover, there are 9 types of kobei in nature. This species is a perennial vine cultivated as an annual. The homeland of this plant is Mexico. This vine grows a large number of stems, reaching 6 m in length. The plumose leaf plates end in branched tendrils with which the plant clings to the support. Flowering lasts from the second half of the summer period until the very frost. Purple flowers have a honey smell. The white kobei (Cobea scandens alba) is a subspecies of the cobei tenacious and has white flowers.

Kobei

- amazing beauty magic

liana

striking with delicate feathery leaves, quickly creating an elegant green carpet, and numerous intricate bell flowers.

Kobei's bell Kobei is a perennial climbing flowering plant that we grow as an annual. It got its name in honor of Barnabas Cobo, a famous Spanish naturalist and Jesuit who lived for many years in Peru and Mexico, the homeland of the cobei.

Believe me, you will not find another vine that grows and is as decorative as the kobei. Its tenacious stem, on which there are many antennae with heart-shaped leaves, reaches 6 m in height. And the touching bell-shaped flowers reach 8 cm in diameter and bloom from July to October, striking not only with their size, but also with an abundance of colors: white, purple, lilac, light salad and even burgundy.

Raising kobei

Growing kobei is a simple and exciting process, but it requires certain skills and compliance with the conditions of agricultural technology.

Kobeya prefers to grow in open areas with fertile, loose soil. The plant is very fond of the sun, tolerates small partial shade relatively well and develops extremely poorly in the shade. When growing a kobei, keep in mind that its young seedlings do not tolerate cold at all, but adult plants are able to withstand frosts down to -5 ° C!

Reproduction of kobei

You can sow kobei seeds from late February to mid-March. On the eve of sowing, literally a few hours before, soak them in a growth stimulant solution (I use Epin).

In order not to harm the roots of kobei seedlings with a dive, it is better to sow each seed in an individual glass filled with a universal soil substrate. Sprinkle the seeds on top with a layer of earth about 1.5 cm thick. The seedlings of the plant should appear 14-25 days after sowing.

If you want to get kobei shoots as early as possible, just germinate large seeds before pecking. To do this, fold ordinary toilet paper in several layers and, having moistened it abundantly with water, spread the seeds on it. They must be laid out very carefully and in such a way that they do not touch each other. Place the container with seeds in an ordinary plastic bag and keep in the light. If during the germination of seeds (which is about 2 weeks) mold appears on them, they will need to be lightly washed and the paper changed.

After the seeds of the kobei have hatched, place them flat side down in a loose substrate and, like unsprouted seeds, sprinkle with a layer of soil about 1.5 cm thick.

As soon as the seedlings grow up a little and two leaves appear on them (according to my observations, this is in early April, if the seeds are sown in mid-March), they must be dived into sufficiently large containers (about 3 liters). To do this, first water the seedlings abundantly with water, then carefully take them out and, together with the old clod of earth, plant them in a new container, filling the edges with a new soil substrate.

By diving kobei seedlings into such large containers, you will give the plant the opportunity to develop a powerful root system, which is extremely important for its further growth. And the shoots by the time of transplantation to the flower bed will be able to form well and get stronger.

Before planting in open ground, kobei seedlings need to be hardened. To do this, put them, for example, on a glassed-in balcony.

Kobei can be propagated not only by seeds, but also by cuttings previously planted in wet sand.

Kobei landing

Kobei seedlings can be planted in a permanent place not earlier than the first days of June: young plants are very afraid of even the slightest frost. Planting holes must be prepared in advance, placing them at a distance of 0.5 m from each other and filling them with loose fertile soil.

Before planting, water the plants in pots abundantly, then carefully remove them, along with a lump of earth. Lower the removed seedling into the prepared hole, lightly bury it and immediately water it a little.

Kobe care

Literally from the first days of life, kobei seedlings need care: we build them small supports that can be removed after planting the plant in the ground. In the garden, the role of support can be played by various buildings, small trees and pergolas, along which the kobei can easily climb.

Watering

Throughout the entire period of development, the kobei loves regular watering, and in dry weather, moisture should be especially abundant. Despite the fact that the plant is very fond of moist soil, try to avoid excess moisture, otherwise root rot may develop on it.

Top dressing

The peculiarities of the plant are that at the beginning of its growth, the kobei needs a lot

nitrogen

, and when it begins to form buds, she needs more

potassium

and

phosphorus

.

We begin to feed the kobe literally from the first days of its life - even before landing in the ground, as soon as the first leaf appears on the plant. We fertilize it with humate - "Baikal-M".

 

So that after planting the kobei could quickly gain green mass, it also needs to be fed frequently (every 7 days): we alternate fertilizing with organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers (for example, with the Kemira remedy). The kobe reacts very well to feeding with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Considering that the plant is very susceptible to attacks by harmful insects, especially spider mites and aphids, it must be inspected regularly, and, if pests are detected, help should be provided in time.

If you want to grow a kobei as a perennial, for the winter (somewhere in the middle of October), cut off its stems, dig up the plant itself, transplant into a small

container

and keep it in a cool shelter until spring. The best place to store kobei would be

cellar

.

There is no need to take care of the plant in winter, just do not allow the soil to dry out. With the onset of spring (March), the kobei must be exposed to the light, and the watering should be slightly increased. You can plant a kobei in open ground by the end of May, choosing fertilized fertile soils for planting it.

Kobeya climbing

Kobea (Cobaea) is a beautifully flowering liana of 9 different species, native to the tropics of South America, although today only one species is cultivated - kobea climbing (Cobaea scandens).

This most common type of tropical kobei comes in either white or purple flowers. The plant is native to Mexico, forms many shoots up to 4 m in length. The leaves of this species are feathery, ending in a branched tendril, with the help of which the plant clings to the support. The kobea blooms, climbing from July until the first frost, and its seeds, to the great regret of many gardeners, do not ripen in central Russia.