What fertilizer should be applied when planting a tomato in open ground?

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Tomatoes are a favorite vegetable for many people. But to get juicy and ruddy fruits, you need to work hard, because the tomato is a rather demanding crop. This vegetable needs a lot of fertilization. To provide it with the necessary nutrients, you need to know: what to put in the hole when planting tomatoes, how to prepare the soil and how to fertilize it? After all, pre-prepared and nourished land is the key to a high and tasty harvest!

Before planting tomatoes, the holes must be well seasoned.

Fertilizing the soil in the autumn

Tomato planting takes place in the spring, but soil preparation should begin in the fall. This process is very important, because the application of fertilizers during digging will contribute to the saturation of the earth with the necessary vitamins, as a result, it will become fertile and nutritious.

Digging the soil will saturate it with oxygen and destroy many pests

What fertilizers should be used to feed the soil?

1. The introduction of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers when preparing the soil for tomatoes is simply necessary. Any soil composition needs them. Spread fertilizer over the ground, then dig.
2. If the soil is acidic, lime it.
3. The soil also requires organic fertilizers and nitrogen, which are found in large quantities in poultry manure.
4. If there is a manure heap on the site that has rotted, spread it over the ridges within a year. By adding superphosphate to manure, the effect of nutrients will increase, the root system of tomatoes will be completely saturated with the necessary elements.
5. A compost heap and ash will bring considerable benefits to the soil and future vegetables.
6. The earth will become not only perfectly prepared for planting a tomato, but it will be light and airy.

Do not forget that a high yield of tomatoes depends entirely on the preparation of the soil!

What to bring into the hole when planting a tomato

After the soil was prepared in the fall, it was completely saturated with all the useful elements. However, in the spring, 24 hours before planting the seedlings, it is necessary to add a weak solution of manganese and a yeast mixture to the ridges at the rate of 10 grams per 10 liters of water.

The yeast solution in the hole will help the bushes quickly adapt to new conditions

Yeast fertilizer should be infused for a day, when planting tomatoes, pour it into each hole, an approximate dosage of 220 grams.

In an organized planting hole, where tomato seedlings will grow, it is necessary to put crushed egg shells. It will contribute to the enrichment of the plant. Also, potassium fertilizer will be beneficial for the root system of the tomato. The source of potassium is ash, which can be obtained from burnt straw, grass or sunflower. Put 100 grams of dry matter in each prepared well.

Wood ash - a source of minerals

When the seedlings are planted, each hole should be sprinkled with black soil or compost fertilizer (no more than a pinch!).

Do I need to put a tomato, mineral fertilizers into the hole when planting

When planting tomatoes both in a greenhouse and in open ground, it is not recommended to apply mineral fertilizers. They will be needed with the further growth of the vegetable, but you should not bring them directly into the hole.

At first, the plant should get stronger and form a root system.

Therefore, those substances that were introduced into the soil in the fall and a little added organic matter in the spring are quite a sufficient amount in the early stages of plant development. Excess fertilizer when planting seedlings can destroy the tomato root system. If the seedlings were grown in peat glasses, then you do not need to put the fertilizer mixture into the hole when planting a tomato!

Humus is a must for tomatoes

What to put in the holes after the tomatoes are planted

In order for the tomato crop to please every gardener, it is necessary to regularly feed not only the bushes, but also the soil. It is worth considering what fertilizers should be applied, their dosages and time:

1. After the preparation of the soil is done, the seedlings are planted. After 14 days, we feed the soil with complex fertilizers, with the calculation of 1 tsp per 900 grams of water.
2. After ten days have passed, pour potassium permanganate under each well with the addition of nitrophoska.
3. After fourteen days, feed the soil with superphosphate and potassium, in each hole, 100 grams of fertilizer mixture.
4. On the tenth day, after disembarking the seedlings, add chicken droppings. It must be diluted with water at the rate of 1:15. At this stage, dusting around the wells will be helpful.
5. After three weeks, apply 25 grams of ammonium nitrate per 8 liters of water. When the first flowers appear, feed the plant with mullein and Azophos, 20 grams per 8 liters of water.
6. Then make three more dressings with a sustained interval of 14-20 days.

Onion hulls - both fertilizer and protection against diseases

The best fertilizer for tomatoes during this period is mullein and bird droppings.

What to put in the holes when planting a tomato? Folk way

When planting tomatoes in holes, many gardeners recommend using onion peels. As soon as the first stages of preparation for planting seedlings begin, fertilization of rotted manure, humus and onion husks should be combined. It can be used not only dry, but also as a tincture. Along with the seedlings, add onion peels to the pits, then you will get:

• strong, healthy seedlings;
• resistance to various diseases;
• rapid plant growth;
• at low temperatures, the seedlings do not deteriorate, they are not afraid of drafts.

Onion peel is a versatile fertilizer for tomato bush. Just a handful of onion husks placed under each plant will ensure normal growth, development, high fruiting and excellent nutrition rich in useful vitamins. In addition, the husk is rich in essential substances that effectively fight garden pests.

Prepared holes in the greenhouse

The seedlings are not exposed to the misfortune of the Colorado potato beetle, and the root system quickly takes root and does not rot.

During the entire growth of tomato bushes, top dressing should be done 2-3 times.Take 300 grams of onion peel, pour hot boiled water over them, leave for 10 hours. Then dilute the resulting mixture at the rate of 4 liters of fertilizer per 20 liters of water.

Eggshells are brought in crushed

Just two sprays, for the entire period of growth of tomato bushes, can prevent the plant from contracting fungal diseases and powdery mildew. The spraying procedure should be carried out with the growth of the ovaries and at the hour of flowering.

Prepare a solution: pour 100 grams of onion peel with one liter of boiling water, leave for 20 hours, strain and apply.

The wells must be watered well.

The tomatoes grown in their own area have a perfect and unique taste. However, in order to achieve a high, rich harvest, it is necessary to carefully care for the plant and soil. Do not forget and be lazy to put the necessary fertilizers and fertilizing into the holes, because they are the key to a plentiful and tasty harvest. Following the above tips, picking tomatoes will bring a lot of positive emotions to every gardener.

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When growing tomatoes, gardeners face many problems, because caring for this crop takes a lot of time and effort. Consider which fertilizers are most suitable for planting tomatoes.

The choice of fertilizer when planting tomatoes

Top dressing of the soil

The crop is planted in the spring, but the soil is fed in the fall: in six months the land is enriched with all useful vitamins and substances, it becomes fertile, as a result of the seedlings it is easier to take root and gain strength for further growth.

Top dressing of the soil is carried out in two ways, they are introduced:

• special mineral;
• organic.

Minerals

Despite the composition of the soil, it is necessary to make phosphorus and potassium fertilizers: they are useful for different types of soils. Potash fertilizers contain chlorine that is harmful to tomatoes, but if it was introduced in the fall, until spring it will leave with groundwater in the lower balls of the earth.

Organic

When the soil is very depleted, organic feeding is suitable, which is used as manure, mullein, chicken droppings, compost, etc. Sometimes peat is used. For 1 sq. m give 2-3 kg of organic matter. If the soil is too acidic, add lime.

Mixed fertilizers

If the farm has a rotted manure heap, superphosphate is added to it. It turns out a very valuable fertilizer containing all the substances necessary and useful for the soil. Fresh manure can only be used in the fall. Wood ash is added to the compost heap. In clay soil - peat and sawdust.

When to deposit

It is most correct to make these dressings before digging up the earth. First, top dressing is scattered over the area allocated for tomatoes, then they are dug somewhere to a depth of 20 cm or to the height of a shovel bayonet. It is not worth leveling the surface.

After performing such actions, even the most barren land becomes saturated with all useful elements. The soil becomes light and loose - the same as tomatoes love.

Preparing a hole for disembarkation

The soil prepared in the fall is treated the day before planting with a non-concentrated solution of potassium permanganate: this will prevent the disease of the plant in the future.

If it was not possible to fertilize the soil in the fall, fertilizing is applied when planting tomato seedlings.

Onion peel

It is placed under the roots of the seedlings. Sometimes the husk is combined with manure and humus. Apply both dry and liquid (make tinctures). A handful of onion peels are enough for a positive result. With it, the seedlings grow faster, are not exposed to diseases, and acquire immunity to cold.

Eggshell

Eggshell is a source of calcium

The shell is washed well, the film is removed in the middle, dried and crushed. A handful of this product is added to the bottom of each hole, because it is an invaluable source of calcium and magnesium.

Ash

Ash contains a large amount of vitamins and minerals. It is used as a fertilizer for tomatoes when planted both dry and liquid (solutions are prepared). Sometimes it is mixed with humus or compost. Dry ash is mixed with soil so as not to spoil the young roots. A handful of ash is added under each bush. The solution is used in a proportion of 250-300 g per 5 liters of water. They are watered and sprayed with bushes.

Yeast solution

To prepare such a top dressing, take 10 g of yeast and dilute in 10 liters of warm water, allow to settle for a day. The mixture is poured into 1 glass in each well. Thanks to such feeding, the seedlings take root faster in a new place.

Mineral fertilizers

Today there are a lot of chemical preparations specially created taking into account all the needs of tomatoes. For them, recommendations for use are prescribed, where the exact dosages are indicated. There are also fast-acting supplements such as superphosphate, saltpeter, urea. They are universal: suitable for all plants.

Superphosphate is used most often. It contains nitrogen, magnesium, calcium, sulfur, phosphorus. This tool helps to reduce the acidity of the soil. Magnesium aids in the rapid development of tomatoes.

Some gardeners do not advise using mineral fertilizers at this stage, so as not to damage the roots of the plant. When planting in greenhouse conditions or in an open area, tomato seedlings have enough natural fertilizers, especially if the soil is prepared in the fall.

Top dressing during the growth period

In order for the tomato fruits to taste good and their harvest to satisfy the gardener, he must feed the bushes on time.

The first feeding after planting tomatoes in a permanent place is carried out after 2 weeks. Also, such fertilizers are applied throughout the entire growth of the bushes, during the period of flowering and ripening of fruits.

Minerals

During the growth period, tomatoes are fertilized with mineral dressings. These include drugs Ammofosk, Solution, Kemira Universal-2, Nitroammofosk, Superphos, etc. Ammonium nitrate is also used. Chemicals are dissolved in water, the granules are scattered over the soil. Such actions are carried out every two weeks.

Organic

Tomatoes are fed with all sorts of solutions, infusions. For their preparation, take mullein, compost, ash, chicken droppings, superphosphate, nitrophosphate, potassium sulfate. Usually, three ingredients are used to prepare top dressing. You can also use crushed eggshells, urea.

Ash

On the tenth day after planting, ash is sprinkled around the tomatoes, and the bushes are watered with droppings dissolved in water with the addition of ash: 500 g of ash and 250 g of droppings per 10 liters of liquid.

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Also watered with a solution of potassium permanganate with the addition of ash. The manganese solution does not require proportions, the finished mixture should be light pink. Ash is added in a ratio of 500 g per 10 l of liquid.

Onion peel

During growth, tomatoes are also fertilized with onion skins. 300 g of husks are poured with boiling water and insisted for 10 hours. For 20 liters of water, there should be 4 liters of infusion. It is enough to spray the bushes 2 times: this will help prevent fungal diseases, because the husk contains essential substances that fight pests. Also, this vitamin supplement contributes to the good development of the plant, growth, ripening of fruits.

It's important to know

When applying fertilizing, it is important to observe the dose and time of fertilization, otherwise the tomatoes will be damaged. Tomatoes do not like oily soils, and they become just like that due to oversaturation with organic fertilizers, therefore:

• mullein can be used no more than three times;
• urea is used strictly for spraying, the bushes are not watered with it.

Conclusion

A gardener gets a good harvest of tomatoes only if he feeds correctly, and therefore what fertilizers to apply when planting tomatoes is almost the first thing a plant grower must learn in order to grow strong and healthy fruits.

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Reviews and comments

Tomatoes are positively related to fertile soil. There will be no harvest if you plant seedlings or sow seeds in unfermented soil. This should be done in stages, and start in the fall. Tomatoes are rapidly taking the elements they need for vegetation from the soil. Observing the basic rules and recommendations taken from a century of scientific and practical experience of summer residents, you will achieve positive results. In this article, we will look at how to fertilize tomatoes in open ground / garden beds for a summer cottage. Read also the article: → "Optimal soil for tomatoes".

Tomatoes, with timely feeding, will give a good harvest.

Soil selection and preparation for planting tomatoes

It is impossible to plant tomatoes in the place where potatoes used to grow, since Colorado beetles and late blight equally affect both vegetables... It is better to do this after pumpkin (zucchini, cucumber, pumpkin, squash), as well as after legumes, cabbage, onions or carrots. To create all the conditions for a full life and growth of a vegetable, you need to systematically fertilize the soil and feed the plant itself. To know the quality of the soil, tests should be carried out for the nutrient content and pH level of the soil. In black earth, sandy loam, slightly acidic or loamy soil, tomatoes will be most comfortable. In spring and autumn, the earth must be dug up and loosened. All weeds are removed with the rhizome. Before planting, check the soil for temperature conditions, tomatoes like warmth. It is not worth planting seedlings or sowing seeds in unheated soil, there will be no benefit from this.

Fertilizer types for tomatoes

Superphosphate granules dissolve easily in water. Do not use it on acidic soil

The balance of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium guarantees a good tomato harvest.

• Complex - a composition that contains nitrogen elements. Potassium and phosphorus. (Nitroammophos, Nitrofoska, Calcium nitrate, Universal, Ammophos and others)
• Organic fertilizers - humus, manure, peat, wood ash.
• Mineral fertilizer - phosphorus-potassium, nitrogen.

The complex type of fertilizer is "Superphosphate". It is a versatile and effective product that contains elements of phosphorus, magnesium, nitrogen, sulfur and calcium. Reduces soil acidity, improves plant growth. There is a simple superphosphate and a double one. Simple contains: nitrogen up to 9%, phosphorus up to 30%, sulfur up to 12%, gypsum up to 45%. Double: phosphorus up to 60%, sulfur up to 8%, nitrogen up to 18%. Has a weakened effect in soils with high acidity. Superphosphate is available in powder and granules.

Organic fertilizers include: poultry droppings, peat, mullein, humus, sapropel, straw, household and industrial waste, and more. Poultry droppings, compost and manure for tomatoes are ideal. It is necessary to use it in the autumn, so that organic compounds have time to decompose and act on the soil.

The value of nutrients

• Potassium - prevents diseases of tomatoes, gives them growth. Without potassium, the plant is weak and grows slowly. Sand or wood ash will help to compensate for the lack of this component.
• Nitrogen - gives life energy to the tops. Its yellowness indicates a lack of nitrogen in the soil. It is contained in compost, sodium and calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate.
• Phosphorus - forms a rhizome and has a positive effect on the seed. Promotes early redness and ripening of fruits. Raise the level of phosphorus: superphosphate, humus, bone meal.

Microelements for feeding tomatoes

Foliar application with microelements will ensure better formation of fruit ovary and improve their growth. Summer residents use the following products for spraying plants.

№	Name	Properties	Dosage
1.	Manganese	accelerates growth	weak solution
2.	Boric acid	promotes good fruit growth	1 l / 1g
3.	Chlorine-copper oxide	improves metabolic processes, prevents the appearance of late blight	weak solution

Fertilizing tomatoes in autumn

In the fall, you need to saturate the soil with useful substances so that it becomes high-quality and fertile until spring. Correction of acidity and density is the main autumn task of the gardener. The soil is enriched with elements of phosphorus and potassium. Peat and rotted sawdust are introduced as needed. If the test shows increased acidity, it should be lowered with the help of: hydrated lime, limestone or dolomite flour. The required acidity numbers are 6-7. In non-running cases, wood ash and chalk are suitable. All fertilizers are placed in the ground twenty centimeters deep. Top dressing should be used in the following proportions.

№	Name	Depth	Proportions
1.	Humus	20-25 cm	5 kg / m2
2.	Bird droppings	20-25 cm	5 kg / m2
3.	Compost	20-25 cm	5 kg / m2
4.	Peat	20-25 cm	5 kg / m2
5.	Potassium salt	20-25 cm	25 g / m2
6.	Superphosphate	20-25 cm	45 g / m2

Spring and summer tomato fertilization

In the spring, the soil needs digging again, tomatoes love it. You need to plant tomatoes in warm soil. If there is no time to wait for natural heating, then you can spread a dark film on the ground, it will attract light and heat.

Use a mulching film, it warms up the soil before planting tomatoes.

A week before planting, you need to prepare the beds. With a width of 110 cm, a height of 20 cm. Keep a distance of 60-65 cm between them. At the same time, we fertilize with superfasphat (25 / m2) and sodium sulfate (20 / m2).

In late May or early June, we begin to plant seedlings and at the same time put potassium sulfate 12 g, ammonium nitrate 22 g, superphosphate 1.5 g or ammorphos 1.5 g in the wells. We do this in the late afternoon. We plant low tomatoes at a distance of 30 cm, 45 cm between rows. Medium - 40 cm between seedlings and 50 cm between rows.

Seedlings that grow poorly are fed for the first time - with bird droppings (diluted in 5 liters of water), ammonium nitrate (7 g) g and potassium sulfate (4 g), 250 g each for 2 tomatoes. The second time - we breed the same composition, but we already use it for one tomato (we fertilize it two weeks after the first time). The third time - ammonium nitrate (7 g), potassium chloride (7 g), superphosphate (10 g), dilute in 5 liters of water (fertilize three weeks after the second time).

Advice 1. During the summer, you need to fertilize tomatoes with mineral and organic substances more than once. In the beginning, they especially need phosphorus.

If a sufficient amount of organic fertilizers was applied to the soil, then during the first feeding per m2, the following is used: urea 5 g, potassium magnesium 9-10 g, double superphosphate 15-20 g, potassium sulfate 15-20 g. Or a complex: nitroammofoska 35-40 g, ammophos 15 g, potassium magnesium 15 g.

Leaf (foliar) feeding of tomato

Conduct foliar dressing, they will strengthen the immunity of tomatoes

Foliar dressing is carried out by spraying. This type of fertilizer feeds the plant during a difficult period for it. With weak tops, small leaves, thin stems, poor flowering or fruit ripening, this method is used. You can prepare the following solutions:

1. Urea solution. Used before flowering (0.5 teaspoon for 5 liters of water).
2. Extraction of superphosphate. We spray during the formation of the fruit (0.5 tsp for 5 liters of hot water).
3. Milk iodine solution. For 5 liters of water, 500 ml of milk and 5 drops of iodine.
4. Boric acid solution. It is used at different times (0.5 tsp for 5 liters of hot water).
5. Multicomponent. For 10 liters of water used: boric acid 10 ml, magnesia 10 ml, copper sulfate 10 ml, several crystals of manganese, 3 tablespoons of laundry soap.
6. Calcium nitrate. It is used at different periods of plant formation. It will help get rid of ticks and slugs. It will protect the tops from rotting and give vitality (10 g per 5 liters of water).
7. Fitosporin and Zdraven.According to instructions.
8. Manganese solution. Dilute until pale pink.

Root feeding of tomatoes. Recipes

Root dressing enriches the plant with nutrients through the root system. They are carried out three times, every two weeks.

Means 1. In 10 liters of water we dilute: chicken droppings 500 ml, potassium sulfate 10 ml, superphosphate / monophosphate 20 ml. We insist for a day.

Means 2. For 10 liters of water - 250 ml of wood ash. Insist 5 hours.

Means 3. In 10 liters of water we dilute: 500 ml of mullein, 6 g of boric acid, 10 ml of potassium sulfate. Pour a liter under each bush.

Means 4. For 10 liters of water - 10 ml of ammonium nitrate.

Means 5. For 10 liters of water - 1 liter of cow dung, 10 ml of nitrophoska.

Means 6. In 10 liters of water we dilute: potassium humate 10 ml, complex multicomponent fertilizer 10 ml.

Means 7. Dilute in 10 liters of water: chicken droppings 500 ml, superphosphate 20 ml, potassium sulfate 5 ml.

Means 8. For 10 liters of water - 20 g of wood ash, superphosphate 20 ml, manganese sulfate (pinch);

Means 9. Dilute in 10 liters of water: green fertilizer 1 liter, superphost 20 ml, wood ash 500 g, copper sulfate 2 g.

Advice 2. To avoid late blight and shedding of color, a solution of boric acid should be sprayed onto the plant.

Yeast dressing for tomatoes

For an organic product, prepare an organic yeast fertilizer. Yeast effectively stimulates the growth of tomatoes. Modern drugs have pushed this agent into the background, but it does not lag behind the current chemical compositions. After application, you will get a strong stem and fleshy fruit.

Use yeast for better plant development

Yeast Fertilizer Properties

• Enriches the soil with beneficial microorganisms;
• improves plant immunity and gives strength to resist external factors;
• strengthens and stimulates the growth of the root system;
• promotes long life of seedlings.

Yeast can be used in any form. These recipes will help you get a good harvest.

1. Dissolve 200 g of yeast in 1 liter of water. We dilute with 5-6 liters of water and process the tomatoes.
2. Pour 2.5 teaspoons of yeast into a deep container, add 2 tablespoons of sugar. Pour 10 liters of warm water, set for three hours.
3. Pick up a bucket of herbs, cut and pour into a large container. Add 500 g of yeast. Dilute 60 liters of water. Day is insisted. Pour tomatoes with this solution.
4. Pour in warm water (10 l), dissolve 100 g of yeast. Pour in 450 g of wood ash. We fertilize at the root.

Gardeners' mistakes in feeding tomatoes

Consider the main mistakes gardeners make when fertilizing tomatoes.

1. Do not feed with cold or hot water, the temperature should correspond to the temperature of the soil.
2. Try each remedy on one plant before use, if the reaction is positive, then start feeding all the tomatoes.
3. Do not spray tomatoes in windy conditions.
4. Feed the plants in the evening or on a cool day.
5. When feeding with mineral fertilizers, be careful. Do not fall on foliage to avoid burns.
6. Before root dressing, moisten the soil, if you pour liquid fertilizer on dry, the root system will get burns.

Blitz answers to pressing questions of gardeners

Fertilize the soil with compost, it will give the soil lightness and provide drainage

Question number 1. What time of day is it better to fertilize tomatoes?

The best time to feed tomatoes is in the evening, at sunset.

Question number 2. What should be the temperature of the water that will be sprayed with plants?

You need to use water at room temperature, cold or too hot will not work. It is important not to expose the plants to temperature extremes.

Question number 3. In what period of tomato growth is it better to spray with boric acid?

You can spray twice. When the plant is gaining color and then at the time of fruiting.

Question number 4. How does urea affect tomatoes?

Urea promotes enhanced plant growth, gives vital energy to the tops. But you can only spray tomatoes with it.

Question number 5. What tomatoes don't like?

They do not like an overabundance of organic matter, numerous fertilizing with mullein and chlorine.

Simple Tomato Nutrition Guide

Fertilizer with yeast is an excellent means for the nutrition and growth of tomatoes. They include minerals, amino acids, polysaccharides, fatty acids, vitamins. Elements of copper, iron, zinc, iodine, calcium, phosphorus and others. All of these ingredients are very beneficial for the growing plant. Top dressing is applied twice. The first time is two weeks after planting, and the second is before flowering. The foliage after application becomes bright and increases in size.

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What to put in the hole when planting tomatoes? Experienced gardeners prefer to put organic matter in addition to fertilizers. Seedlings are well accepted thanks to such feeding and grow quickly.

What they just do not put in the holes when landing. It can be sawdust, ash, and onion husks. But you also need to know how to prepare the holes for planting a tomato, how to properly apply these fertilizers

Growing strong seedlings

To grow a rich harvest of tomatoes, they use varieties that multiply by seeds. Seedlings are grown from them, which are then transplanted into open ground.

It all depends on what kind of fertilizer is applied to the soil, how germination is carried out. You can greatly facilitate the work of growing plants from seeds and at the same time get high-quality strong sprouts. Preparation for planting seeds is carried out in late autumn.

The bottom of the wooden box is torn off. A large hole is being dug in the ground. Organic fertilizer is introduced into it from a mixture of semi-rotten manure and wood sawdust or straw. A wooden box is installed on top. It is covered with plastic wrap.

When it is warm in spring, the soil in the hole is loosened. Watered with a warm solution of urea or saltpeter. To prepare the solution, add about 40 g of these fertilizers to 1 liter of water. After the moisture is absorbed, the top layer of the soil is sprinkled with earth.

The day before, they are preparing for landing as follows: water the soil in the hole with a hot solution of potassium permanganate. Allow moisture to absorb, and then cover the box with foil.

What is put in the hole when planting seeds? Shallow furrows are made in the ground and the crop is sown. On top of them, the hole is covered with humus, watered with humate. When the moisture has been absorbed, the box is covered with plastic wrap.

When the first 3 - 5 leaves appear, the planting is watered with a solution of urea or saltpeter with the addition of micronutrient fertilizers. Plants are strong, disease-resistant.

Preparing wells for planting culture

To make it easier for yourself to take care of tomato bushes during the ripening period, you should worry about fertilizing the soil in advance. Planting culture provides for preparatory work, which is carried out in late autumn, early spring.

Dig holes at an equal distance from each other. Their bottom should be thoroughly loosened. This ensures the lightness of the soil, filling it with oxygen. Planting seedlings in such soil ensures that moisture is retained for a long time. The plants themselves take root faster, the roots grow easily without colliding with such an obstacle as compacted soil.

Further, stakes are driven into the holes along the entire perimeter of the garden. Then organic fertilizers are applied: first, a bucket of semi-rotten manure, and then a bucket of humus and a bucket of sand.

The correct fertilization of the soil is as follows:

• manure;
• humus;
• sand;
• Earth;
• ash;
• lime superphosphate.

After that, you should thoroughly mix all the fertilizers in the hole. Along the edges, you need to make small bumpers from the ground.

In the spring, when the time comes for planting, small holes are made in the prepared bed with a depth of no more than 50 cm.The roots of the seedlings are cut to such a length that they enter the hole. It is necessary to take two plants in one hole.

It is not recommended to mix varieties. Only tomatoes of the same variety grow well with each other. But plants from seedlings of the same variety are quite acceptable to place two in one hole.

The lower leaves are removed before planting. If this is not done, they will subsequently rot, creating a favorable environment for tomato diseases. Since the soil was previously richly fertilized, it is not necessary to additionally add any organic or other fertilizers to the soil.

After planting the seedlings in the ground, the soil is watered abundantly with water. It is advisable to measure its amount with the size of the hole itself.

Experienced gardeners mulch a hole when planting tomatoes. This is done by dropping in crumpled old newspapers, husks from seeds, well-dried straw.

All this must be put into the hole when planting tomatoes. Earthworms like to nest under mulch. They loosen the ground, preventing weeds from taking root.

In the future, tomato bushes almost do not require painstaking care. Fertilizer is additionally applied to the soil only in cases where there is a lot of ovary on the bushes.

Errors in growing tomatoes (video)

Folk method of fertilizing the soil

Growing a tomato is not tedious when using onion peels. You can start using it already in the first stages of compost preparation. Tomatoes grow well on fertilizer from the following components:

• semi-rotten manure;
• humus;
• onion peel.

You can use both dry husks and the one from which the infusion was previously made for other needs. Despite the fact that I put in the already used raw materials, the quality of the compost does not decrease.

To obtain strong, healthy seedlings, resistant to diseases, onion peels should be placed in the holes along with the seeds. The seeds germinate quickly, the sprouts develop well.

Seedlings are not susceptible to deterioration in the event of a decrease in air temperature, when exposed to cold drafts. Planting does not suffer from such diseases as "black midge", "spider mite". Onion skins should also be used when seedlings are planted outdoors. You do not need to figure out what to put in the hole when planting a tomato.

Summer residents have come up with a universal way. It is enough to add a handful of onion husks to each plant. With such a planting, a tomato bush for normal growth, development, fruiting is further provided with sufficient feeding, rich in all the necessary trace elements.

In addition, the onion peel essential substances contained in the planting repel many garden pests from the plants. The plant does not touch the Colorado potato beetle, the roots do not rot.

After we plant the seedlings, during the entire period of development of tomato bushes, it is recommended to water the bushes with the following solution several times per season:

• Take 2 large handfuls of onion skins.
• They are poured 2 fingers up with boiling water and infused for several hours.
• The resulting infusion is diluted with water.
• The solution is obtained at the rate of 2 liters of infusion for 1 bucket of water.

In order to protect the bushes from the spread of powdery mildew, other fungal diseases that ruin the crop, two sprays with a solution of onion peels are enough. They are carried out during the period of flowering and growth of tomato ovaries.

To prepare the solution, you need to take a large handful of husks and pour 1 liter of water over it. Insist for 2 days. Then strain and use.

Planting tomatoes and fertilizing them (video)

Tomato is not the most capricious crop, but summer residents often complain about the poor harvest of vegetables. And even when choosing regional varieties of tomatoes, observing all agrotechnical recommendations, the result may not please vegetable growers. The fact is that the quantity and quality of the fruit is directly related to the nutrients in the soil. That is why, during the transplantation of plants into the ground, it is necessary to carry out top dressing.

Why fertilize the wells?

Every gardener dreams of collecting a bountiful harvest of tasty and healthy tomatoes. And the soil only depletes over time. Therefore, in order to provide the culture with vitamins, minerals, trace elements in advance, fertilizers are used.

Modern summer residents have a choice between folk remedies and special chemicals sold in agricultural stores.

Tomatoes, planted in holes with fertilizers, bear fruit with high quality. Experienced vegetable growers claim that the proportions of the root system and the aboveground part of the crop are 1:15. To provide itself with the necessary substances, the plant expends a lot of energy.

The average yield from 1 tomato bush is 5 kg. fruits. For this he needs 2 g of potassium, 0.5 g of phosphorus, 1.5 g of nitrogen.

Digging the soil is mandatory, as it contributes to the saturation of the earth with oxygen and destroys harmful insects. Excavation depth with soil transfer - shovel bayonet.

How to apply top dressing correctly?

Preparing the soil and adding nutrients to it is necessary in the fall, when the crop has already been harvested. 24 hours before the seedlings are transferred from the greenhouse to the garden, you need to make holes and place complex fertilizers for nightshades in them. After planting the seedlings, you need to slightly compact the soil and put some compost or black soil on the surface of the holes.

The amount of fertilizer applied requires control, since an overdose of one of the components may damage the roots of a vegetable crop.

How to prepare compost?

The quality of the soil changes significantly after the addition of this component. Compost is prepared in different ways, each summer resident has his own recipe. For beginners, it is better to use the following scheme:

• take a box or dig a hole for organic matter in a remote area of ​​the territory;
• put household waste there, for example, cleaning from vegetables and fruits, fallen leaves, tops, weeds, chips, sawdust, ash - that is, all components of vegetable origin that can rot;
• put branches, chips and sawdust on the bottom of the box, and alternate 40-50 cm of waste with the ground on top;
• stir the compost during the "ripening" process so that it is saturated with oxygen, and salts and organic matter are evenly distributed;
• in order to avoid drying out humus, water it with water or manure solution in the summer.

Feces of cats, dogs and humans should not be included in the compost, as they are sources of parasites. Also, citrus fruits, bones, milk and diseased plants should not be included.

What do they put in the holes?

Chemical Compositions

Now on the market and in specialized stores, summer residents are offered a large selection of balanced fertilizers, which are placed in the holes when transplanting tomatoes. The main difference between such preparations is the development, taking into account the necessary vitamins and minerals for tomatoes and other plants of the Solanaceae family.

According to experienced agronomists, the best fertilizers applied to seedling holes are: AgriCola, Zdraven, Multiflor.

Substances such as saltpeter, carbamide and superphosphate diluted in water act quickly and have a tangible effect. They are dissolved and used only according to the annotation. Yields can be adversely affected not only by a shortage, but also by an excess of fertilizer.

Folk remedies

There are summer residents who rightly consider natural fertilizers to be safer than chemical ones, and prefer them.

Onion husks

The component is placed in the wells together with the seeds. Then they will quickly germinate, and the shoots will actively develop. Seedlings are not affected by temperature fluctuations and cold winds. It does not become infected with the "black midge" or spider mite.

When planting tomatoes in open ground, a handful of onion husks are placed under each young tomato. Then the bush will grow and bear fruit normally. Esters, which are contained in natural fertilizer, repel the Colorado potato beetle and prevent the roots from rotting.

Tomatoes already rooted in the garden are recommended to be sprayed with an onion solution:

• take 2 large handfuls of husks;
• pour them about 15 cm of boiling water and leave for several hours;
• the tincture is diluted in water;
• make a solution in the ratio: 2 liters. infusion for 1 bucket of water.

To prevent the bushes from becoming infected with powdery mildew and other fungi, it is enough to spray them 2 times a season. The procedure is carried out during the formation of flowers and ovaries.

Ash

A very useful fertilizer for tomatoes, which can be obtained by burning wood, dry plants, and straw. If you place the seedlings in a hole where a handful of ash, humus or compost was added, they will quickly take root.

Eggshell

Enriches the soil with calcium. The ingredient must be peeled from the inner film, dried completely and crushed with a mortar. Egg shells are a lime fertilizer that reduces soil acidity.

Yeast

Due to such feeding, tomatoes develop faster and adapt to a new territory. 10 g of fresh pressed product is diluted in 10 liters. warm water and insist for 24 hours.

Watering features

Freshly planted seedlings should not be watered immediately. You can carry out the procedure once every few days, and irrigate the soil in between. The soil should not dry out; it must be moistened from time to time.

It takes about a week to strengthen the root system of tomatoes and adapt to open ground. Only after the specified time can the transplanted tomatoes be watered. And after 14 days, hilling is permissible to the full height of the stem, but not more than 10 cm.

In May, the preparation of land plots for planting seedlings and sowing vegetable seeds is already in full swing. There are still pressing issues related to tomatoes, which require special attention. If everything is done correctly, a good harvest of tasty fruits will not take long. So, armed with the necessary theory, we turn to garden work.

Comfortable relocation of seedlings to open ground

Like many gardeners, we often grow tomatoes in the same place for several years in a row. Therefore, we approach the improvement of the land plot with great seriousness: we apply organic fertilizers (humus, compost) and sow green manure. At the end of August, even before the final harvest of the tomatoes, we sow rye, which in October covers the garden with a green carpet. In autumn or spring, we dig a bed with green manure, which significantly improves the aeration of the soil.

As we said earlier, the day before planting in open ground, we water the seedlings with a solution of Confidora-maxi or Aktara, and also feed them under the root with an increased dose of phosphate-potassium fertilizers: 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 80 g of potassium sulfate for 5 liters of water. This agricultural practice promotes the activation of the root system and better plant survival. A good effect is provided by spraying seedlings with a biostimulator of growth Epin-extra 1-2 days before planting on the site. Against fungal diseases, five days before planting, we treat the plants with the Consento fungicide.

We start planting tomato seedlings in a permanent place as early as possible, based on the prevailing climatic conditions. Early planting contributes to the rapid growth of fruits and a high yield.

We plant the seedlings in trenches, which we fill with abundant water 2-3 days before. Into the trenches we add 10-12 kg of humus, 80 g of superphosphate and a 0.5-liter can of wood ash per 1 m of length. In the initial period of seedling survival in the open field, phosphorus is its main nutrient, which promotes the growth of the root system. Since phosphorus is poorly absorbed at low soil temperatures, a small amount of nitrogen increases the absorption of phosphorus by plants, and also provides nitrogen nutrition. For the prevention of apical rot, add 40-50 g of calcium nitrate per 1 m of length.

We plant the plants vertically, deepening the stem by 1/3, then fill it with soil at the level of the garden bed and water it well.

See also: Growing seedlings - when and how to plant, sowing and seeds from A to Z - part 1

We plant determinant tomato varieties according to the scheme 60-70 × 30-40 cm with a distance between the beds of 120 cm; indeterminate - 80 × 30-50 cm with a distance of 120 cm between the beds.

After 9-10 days, when the seedlings take root in a new place, we water it, and a little later - feeding with chicken droppings. In normal non-dry years, we water the tomatoes only before feeding.

Above the seedlings of super-early varieties of tomato, we set arcs, which, in case of frost, we cover with agrofibre. The film is not suitable for these purposes.

We arrange a removable trellis above the plants, which allows you to tie up tomatoes and quickly correct the illumination of the bushes.

Grassing seedlings - to whom, how much and why

In late May - early June, we begin to form tomato plants. We carry out grazing based on the soil and climatic conditions of our growing zone and varieties of different types of growth and degree of determinancy.

We graze low-growing tomatoes to get large, even, well-developed, early ripening fruits, which are good not only fresh and salted, but also produce high-quality seed material. When pinching low-growing tomatoes, their yield decreases slightly, but the quality of the fruits and their early ripening significantly increase. When the lower leaves are removed, the plants are well ventilated and less affected by diseases.

The number of stepchildren left on the plant depends on the variety and power of the bush. For example, we carry plants of such large-fruited varieties as Velmozha, Vechny Zov, Zolotoy Vek, Asteriks, Pyshna Ukrainochka, Berdsky Large and Dniprovsky Krasny in 2-3 stems to get fruits weighing 300-500 g.

On bushes of varieties Tarasenko 7, Novichok Rosy, Kobzar, Nastenka, Lyana Rosovaya. Fat Jack and others, whose fruit weight does not exceed 150 g, we leave four stepsons. Each tomato bush is individual: if you leave four stepsons on a powerful plant, it will form beautiful large fruits of high quality. If the bush is frail, a large number of stepsons left on it will result in many small sour fruits.

Indeterminate (tall) tomatoes must be pinned necessarily, otherwise the bed will turn into dense thickets.

Indeterminate tomatoes lay the first flower cluster between the seventh and fourteenth leaves, and stepchildren emerge from the axils of each leaf. That is, before the first brush, an additional "broom" from the branches will grow, which will receive nutrients faster and in large quantities. To prevent this from happening, we tie the tall varieties to the trellis and begin to pinch when the first brush blooms. If the bush is powerful, we leave one, two or three stepsons (depending on the variety). We form a bush into two stems and leave the stepson, which is located under the first flower brush. If we are leading a plant with three stems, we leave the two strongest stepsons under the first flower brush. The rest of the stepchildren are removed once a week, throughout the growing season of tomatoes.

By the way, we plant the seedlings of tall De Barao-type tomatoes every 20-25 cm in a row and then form plants in only one stem. As a result, we get 6-7 brushes of large, aligned fruits.

If we want to get kilogram fruits, we form plants in only one stem, leaving no more than 3-4 brushes. After the formation of the ovary, when the diameter of the first fruits reaches 2 cm, we leave 2-3 fruits in each brush, and remove the rest of the fruits together with the buds.

Thus, while stepchild bush, we direct all the energy of the plant to the formation of fruits, and not to the cultivation of green mass.

Reference by topic: How to grow seedlings - when and how to plant, sowing and seeds (Part 2)

It is interesting

We solve the problem of ovary dropping in large-fruited tomatoes with the help of Epin-extra and boric acid. Epin-extra is an organic, anti-stress drug that is harmless to humans and insects. When preparing a working solution, add a spoonful of lemon juice or a pinch of citric acid to it. Since the Epin-extra solution is absorbed by plants within 2-3 days, the treatment must be carried out in calm, windless weather. We usually do 3-4 treatments per season. In the finished form, the working solution can be stored for a maximum of two days, but it is better to use it on the day of preparation.

Boric acid stimulates flowering and prevents the ovary from falling off. Dissolve a teaspoon of boric acid in very hot water, then bring the volume of water to 10 liters. We process plants on a leaf with the first blooming brush.

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Growing tomatoes in the open field is a very painstaking process that begins, as we all know, with planting tomato seedlings. And only after we plant tomatoes in open ground, the cultivation and care of the tomato begins.

Especially for novice summer residents, we will tell you how to plant tomatoes correctly. It is better to place the tomato in the garden after the crops under which manure was introduced (cucumber, cabbage).

In this case, when we plant tomatoes in open ground, only mineral fertilizers are used for tomatoes: 10–15 g of urea, 40–50 g of simple superphosphate and 15–20 g of potassium chloride are added per 1 m2.

It is better to apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers for tomatoes in autumn for deep tillage, and nitrogen fertilizers only in spring.

Complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are best applied for spring digging. If organic fertilizers or mineral fertilizers for tomatoes were not used under the previous crop, then in spring 3-4 kg / m2 of humus or compost should be applied.

To prevent the spread of diseases characteristic of this culture, the tomato should return to its original place no earlier than after 3 years. Tomato plantings do not need to be placed next to potatoes, since they have a number of common diseases, in particular late blight, which usually appears earlier on potatoes and then is easily transferred to tomato.

After harvesting the previous crop, the site is freed from after crop residues and dug deeply. Digging up the soil in the fall, you should not break up large clods, this improves the freezing of them and the arable horizon, contributes to better absorption of autumn precipitation and the retention of snow. If the fertile horizon is small on the site, then during autumn cultivation it is possible to dig up the soil a little deeper by 2-3 cm, but at the same time, higher rates of organic fertilization should be applied, as well as lime or ash should be added.

In the spring, after the upper horizon dries up, the site is carefully leveled and loosened with an iron rake.

What are tomatoes fed with? Before planting seedlings, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, the soil is dug up, but already to a shallower depth, or loosened with a garden pitchfork and the surface is leveled with an iron rake.

Seedlings are usually planted in early June, when the danger of frost has passed. In areas with a southern slope on light sandy loam soils in stable warm weather, planting can begin from May 20-25, but it is necessary to take measures to protect the planted plants from possible frosts. To do this, immediately after planting, arches or light frames are placed over the plants, which, when threatened by frost, are covered with kraft paper, burlap, old blankets.

Planting tomato seedlings is usually carried out on a flat surface, and in areas with increased moisture - in pre-made ridges or ridges. Planting distances depend on soil fertility, varietal characteristics and the method of plant formation. The optimal distance between the planted rows is 60–70 cm.

In a row, early ripening standard determinant varieties are placed every 30–35 cm. Determinant varieties with a lodging stem are placed at 40–50 cm if it is planned to form plants in 2–3 stems and tie tomatoes in open ground to stakes. If they do not plan to pinch tomatoes in the open field, and the plants will be grown in their natural form on heaps, then 60-70 cm are left in a row. Indeterminate varieties are placed according to the scheme 70x70 cm or 100x100 cm.

Before planting in the holes, it would be good to add 200-300 g of humus and 3-5 g of granular superphosphate to them, then thoroughly mix them with the ground.

During planting, the seedlings should look fresh, that is, be "in turmoil". Even a slight wilting of plants retards their growth after planting, and with a strong wilting, the most valuable first flowers fall, which inevitably leads to the loss of an early harvest. On a cloudy day, planting can be carried out from morning to evening, and in hot sunny weather, it is better to plant in the afternoon. This is especially important for potless seedlings planted with a small clod of soil.

Before planting, irrigation must be carried out, consuming 1-2 liters of water per well, depending on the moisture content of the soil. Seedlings are planted deeper than they grew before. This planting contributes to the regrowth of the adventitious root system on the part of the stem submerged in the ground. Normally developed seedlings are planted vertically at the base of the first leaf, while overgrown seedlings are planted in a slope, covering the half-bare stem with earth. When planting, they tend to direct the tops of the plants to the south or southeast. With this planting, the leafless part of the stem will suffer less from direct sunlight, and an additional root system will form on it.

Growing and caring for tomatoes includes a number of activities: loosening the soil surface, weeding, watering, feeding, hilling, tying to stakes, pinching, and fighting diseases.

During the entire period of growing tomatoes in open ground on the site, it must be kept in a loose and clean state. To do this, the aisles are loosened to a depth of 6-10 cm every 2-3 weeks. Plants are covered with moist soil twice. The first hilling is carried out 14–20 days after planting, the second hilling is carried out in another 10–14 days. Higher hilling is carried out on heavy loamy soils, when no tie is applied to the stakes and they are grown on heaps. At the same time, conditions are created for the regrowth of an additional root system, the incidence of fruits decreases, since due to better heating of the soil, their ripening is accelerated. After each hilling, the covered leaves should be freed from the ground so as not to reduce the assimilation apparatus. If the sheet is completely in the ground, then it must be removed. On light sandy loam soils, high hilling is impractical.

To ensure good survival of seedlings, the first 5-7 days after planting, it is necessary to ensure high soil moisture; after watering, the soil surface must be loosened in order to eliminate the crust. After the seedlings take root, watering is stopped for 10-15 days. This is due to the fact that high soil moisture during this period leads to increased growth of the vegetative mass, which in turn inhibits the development of generative organs and delays flowering. With a lower moisture content of the upper soil horizon, the root system quickly penetrates into deeper moist horizons, which improves the supply of plants with moisture in subsequent periods.

During flowering, setting and growth of fruits, watering is carried out more often. Watering should be abundant in order to create a large supply of moisture in the soil, but not often, so as not to increase the humidity of the air. The best results are obtained with irrigation in furrows between the rows of plants. After the furrows dry out, loosening is carried out. The most favorable time for watering is early in the morning or in the evening.

In vegetable gardens, it is widely practiced to tie tomatoes in the open field to stakes or a wire stretched along the rows. The stakes are placed on the north side at a distance of 10 cm from the stem. The stems are tied to the stakes with twine or washcloth 3-4 times during the growing season. It is better to tie it under the brush. How to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes? When grown on stakes, the plants are better illuminated and warmed up, which leads to an accelerated ripening of the crop. With a stake crop, the fruits do not come into contact with the ground and are less affected by pests and diseases.

It is recommended to feed the plants during the growing season. The first feeding is usually carried out 10-15 days after planting, when the plants take root well. So what are tomatoes fed with? During this period, mainly phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are given, which accelerate flowering. For 1 m2, you can add 10 g of urea, 15–20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride. The second feeding is timed to the moment when the ovaries on the first cluster will have a diameter of 3-4 cm, or a little later - during the period of mass fruit formation. At this time, the need for nutrients increases sharply, as plants begin to form a crop, and at the same time continue to grow vigorously. It is recommended to add 20 g of urea and 10-15 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2. With a strong development of the vegetative mass, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers must be halved or completely eliminated.

It is good to use slurry (with a dilution of 1: 4) or bird droppings (1:15) when feeding. Fertilizers are best applied in dissolved form into grooves 6–8 cm deep. If fertilizers were applied dry, then it is necessary to give abundant watering after that.

How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes: pinching tomatoes in the open field

To accelerate the ripening of fruits in the garden, especially in cold and rainy summers, the plants must be pinned. This technique is extremely important for the northern regions, where the summer is short. The meaning of pinching is that when pinching the lateral shoots (stepchildren formed on the stem in the leaf axils), there is an outflow of plastic substances from the shoots to the flowers and ovaries, which favors better fruit setting, accelerating their growth and ripening. It is necessary to remove stepchildren regularly - once every 7 - 10 days, when they are still small, 3-5 cm long. It is better not to remove overgrown stepchildren at the base, as this will form large wounds on the stem. It is better to just pinch them, that is, remove the growth point from them.

As mentioned above, in the open field, mainly varieties are grown that have a determinant type of bush. The cultivation of tomatoes can take place without pinching tomatoes in the open field. But in vegetable gardens, soil fertility and moisture is higher, and therefore tomato plants develop more powerful here.In this case, pinching should be used to accelerate the ripening of fruits. When pinching, the plant is formed into one, two or three stems. With a single-stem bush, all stepchildren are removed, leaving only the apical growth point. This form gives the earliest harvest, but the total yield per plant will be less, since only 2-3 clusters form on the main stem of the determinant varieties.

A higher yield with a prolonged fruiting period is given by plants formed into 2-3 stems. With a two-stemmed bush, a stepson is left as the second stem, located directly under the first flower brush. This stepson is usually the strongest on the plant and quickly forms a flower race. When forming a three-stemmed form, two stepsons are left under the first flower brush. It is not recommended to leave the lowest stepchildren in our conditions, as they bloom late. Stepsons forming on the left stems should be regularly removed as they grow back.

It is important to choose the shape of the bush. The single-stem form gives a harvest earlier, but less, and therefore it requires much more seedlings, which is undesirable for a gardener. Therefore, this form can be recommended only for early maturing varieties on a small number of plants. The bulk of tomatoes should be grown in a three-stem form: both the yield will be higher, and less seedlings will be required.

In addition to pinching in vegetable gardens, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the stems (verskovation). The stems are pinched a month before the last harvest, that is, around August 10-15. You need to pinch the stems above the uppermost fully flowering brush or above a brush with small ovaries. At the same time, 2-3 leaves are left above the brush, which will have to provide this brush with food. This pinching will accelerate the growth and maturation of already set fruits. Now you know how to speed up the ripening of tomatoes in your summer cottage.

To the greatest extent, varieties with an indeterminate (vigorous) stem type need pinching. Their growing season is much longer than that of early maturing determinant varieties. Earlier varieties can be grown in 2-3 stems, and later varieties should be formed into one stem, leaving three to four flower clusters on it. In the southern regions of our zone, these varieties can be given with a favorable summer, and two stems, leaving 4 brushes on the main stem and 2 brushes on the second-order shoot. In large-fruited varieties, to obtain larger fruits, no more than three ovaries should be left in the brush.

The late-ripening De Barao variety gives the highest yields, but it should be recommended for cultivation, primarily in the southern regions of our zone. Its cultivation technology is more complex. So, the famous vegetable grower Lisitsyn I.L. recommends the following cultivation method for this tomato. Seedlings are placed in two rows in a checkerboard pattern of 70 × 70 cm. Planting holes are made with a volume of about 10 liters. Up to 3 liters of the nutrient mixture are poured into each of them. On a bucket of humus, he adds 0.5 liters of wood ash, half a glass of superphosphate, half a glass of nitroammophoska, 50 g of potassium magnesium. Additionally, up to 1 liter of chicken manure solution (1:10) and 3 liters of water are given in the wells. When the water is absorbed, the introduced mixture is mixed with an equal volume of soil, and then seedlings are planted in the finished hole. After planting, a hole is made near the plant with a volume of at least three liters. An hour after planting, watering is carried out again at a rate of 1.5–2 liters. After absorbing water, the hole is mulched with a humus layer of 4–5 cm. Immediately after planting, the seedlings are tied to pegs up to 70 cm high, and then tied to long stakes protruding above the soil to a height of 2.2 m. The stem is tied under each brush. The bushes are formed into three stems, the tops of the stems are pinched at a height of 2 m. In dry weather, watering is carried out every other day, 3 liters per well.With a good filling of the holes with fertilizers, fertilizing is not carried out. In case of frost, the plants are covered with plastic wrap, which is thrown over the stakes to which the plants are tied. According to this agricultural technique, Lisitsyn receives up to 45 kg per 1 m2. The given agricultural technique is very complicated and is available only for a few very experienced amateur vegetable growers. But this example speaks of the great potentialities of the tomato plant.

The period of fruit development in tomato, counting from their conception to full biological ripeness, depends on the early maturity of the variety, climatic conditions and the agricultural technology used. Under conditions of open ground in early ripening varieties, it ranges from 40 to 54 days, in mid-ripening - 50-65 days. Ripening of fruits with early planting of hardened potted seedlings begins in mid-July, and when planted in the first decade of June - in the first decade of August.

There are three degrees of fruit ripeness, at which it is possible to harvest the crop without lowering the commercial quality of the fruit. What fruit does a tomato have? The fruits are green-ripe, which have reached the normal size for a given variety, and have fully formed seeds. When ripening, such fruits acquire a characteristic color and taste for the variety, and the seeds isolated from them after ripening have a high germination capacity. In appearance, green ripe fruits differ from the still underdeveloped green ones in a slightly yellowish (blanche) color and shine. A narrow corky brown border forms on the fruit of the stalk. In this ripeness, fruits are usually harvested, intended for long-term transportation. In brown ripeness, yellowish-brown spills are noticeable on 25% of the fruit surface. When cross-sectioned, the pulp of the fruit has a pinkish color (ripening of fruits in a tomato begins from the inside). The fruits, harvested in brown ripeness, ripen in a warm room after 3-4 days. Eating fruits in brown ripeness contributes to an increase in yield, because the fruits remaining on the plant receive relatively more nutrients and are in more favorable conditions for their accelerated development and ripening. Now we know with you what fruits a tomato has.

With full biological ripeness, the fruits acquire a characteristic color for the variety, that is, they become red, pink or yellow. At this ripeness, the fruits are harvested for immediate consumption.

Harvesting of tomatoes is carried out selectively as the fruits ripen in 1-3 days, depending on weather conditions. In the northern regions and regions, if the weather is cold, due to which the fruits ripen slowly, it is advisable to harvest the crop in brown or blanche ripeness. The final harvesting of all tomato fruits, including green ones, is done when the air temperature drops to 5–7 ° C at night. This is due to the fact that a lower temperature increases the damage to fruits by late blight. Fruits harvested at a later date, when the weather is cool for a long time, lie very poorly. At the last harvest, the green fruits are harvested, which have reached half the size characteristic of the variety. They can be used for ripening or long-term storage.

During harvesting and transportation, damage to the fruit must be avoided. They cannot be crumpled, thrown, carelessly transferred from one container to another, since injured fruits easily deteriorate. You should pick the fruits from the plants with the stalk, pressing with your thumb on the separating ring (the place where the fruit is attached to the hand). At the time of harvest, the fruits must be dry, that is, they cannot be harvested through dew or immediately after watering or rain.

After harvesting tomatoes, all post-harvest residues are removed from the site, and the soil is dug deeply.

In hot and dry summers, gardeners get good harvests of fruits. Particularly distinguished is the variety called the Bull's Heart. Its fruits are fleshy, small-chambered with a small number of seeds, and very tasty. On average, they weighed from 300 to 500 g, sometimes reaching a mass of 1 kg.

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