Irises planting and care in the open field for the winter

What irises to choose

We have already considered the classification of garden irises, recall that in Russia officially only rhizome species belong to real irises. Let's talk about them.

In total, several tens of thousands of different varieties of irises have been registered, among them there are varieties that can grow and bloom only in the southern regions of Russia, there are varieties that perfectly tolerate winters (with and without shelter) and are popular in the Central region.

In addition to winter hardiness, flower growers are guided in the choice of irises exclusively by their own taste, which color, shade and combination of colors they like best. But if you have a targeted cultivation of flowers - for cutting, garden design, well-thought-out schemes of flower beds and flower beds, the first thing you should pay attention to is the flowering time:

• early flowering - from late May to early June inclusive (low-growing varieties);
• average flowering period - from the beginning of June (medium-sized and tall varieties);
• late flowering: from the end of June (medium and tall);
• remontant irises: they are able to bloom again in late summer - early autumn (in Russia this is possible only in the southern regions).

Iris partners in the flower bed

Irises go well with conifers, lupins, peonies, phloxes (bristly, creeping), asters, monarda, lilies, primroses; from decorative greenery, chisel, heuchera, astilba are suitable.

Irises and cornflower blue perennial

The complexity of any flower garden with the participation of irises lies in the fact that they have a thick rhizome, which is located horizontally and takes up enough space. In addition, irises need light and air in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe roots, which means that tall plants with dense foliage cannot be planted in the neighborhood. Those. for any plantings and compositions between plants of various types, you need to leave enough free space and decorate it with any ground cover or stones.

In addition, irises quickly lose their decorative effect with the end of flowering. Unfortunately, from the high humidity of the air or soil (in a damp summer), from the violation of agricultural technology (mismatch of acidity), the leaves very quickly become stained, often of fungal origin. Therefore, it is usually practiced to trim the leaves of bearded irises, if they have lost their decorative effect, if they remain clean and green, nothing needs to be trimmed!

For cut, faded irises, you always want the flower bed not to look dull, but it is not always possible. Therefore, sometimes it is advisable to plant irises in flower beds in very small groups, so that when the flowering ends, the foliage is "lost" against the background of other flowering plants, or to plant irises in an iridarium (a flower bed consisting of flowers of one species - a mono flower).

Iridarium of irises is the most optimal planting option, you can arrange several groups by choosing irises according to varieties in color and height. It is only important not to thicken the planting, not to forget that the fans of the leaves need a certain amount of space.

Location

Irises prefer full sun - an open area, not windy (tall varieties need support in any case), but plants can bloom even with light shading (if the shade is openwork from the crown of small trees and shrubs).

The soil

The mechanical composition of the soil: light loam, well-drained, with an acidity close to neutral pH 6.5-7.5.

If you have too heavy clay soil, which dries out for a long time after rains, it must be improved, otherwise the fleshy rhizomes of irises will quickly begin to rot. The porosity of clay soil can be increased by adding sand and peat.

If you have a wet area, near groundwater, then you need to plant irises only in raised flower beds, organized according to the same principle as vegetable beds - at least at a height of 20-25 cm.

On light sandy soils, irises will also be uncomfortable - in addition to the fact that they dry out quickly and are too poor in nutrients, they need to be improved by adding humus and loam.

It is categorically unacceptable to plant irises on the soil with the introduction of manure; the soil can only be ennobled with well-decomposed humus.

Planting and breeding

It is best to plant bearded irises in August, so that the plants have time to take root in a new place before frost. If you haven't made it before mid-August, you can try planting in the spring.

As a planting material, we use cuttings from the rhizome of the mother plant, which needs to be transplanted.

In one place, irises can grow for 6-7 years, then a transplant is required, although these periods also depend on the species. For example, Siberian irises can grow in one place for about 10 years, while Japanese irises, on the contrary, can grow for 2-3 years.

In general, the timeliness of planting and dividing iris bushes occurs for several reasons:

1. Depletion of the soil, deterioration of its structure (compaction) and depletion of the composition - top dressing is only a temporary measure, they do not restore the humus layer.
2. Rhizomes of plants during the growth period actively "crawl" to the surface of the soil, this leads to the cessation of flowering, and with the onset of cold weather to freezing of the apical bud, as a temporary measure, mulching with peat can help, but in general, when the rhizomes are already on the surface, a transplant is needed.

It is believed that the correct planting of bearded irises should be such that the iris tuber rises slightly from the ground, has the opportunity to warm up by the sun. To do this, you need to orient the plantings to the cardinal points so that the fan leaves do not cast a shadow on the rhizome while the sun is playing on the flower beds.

However, such a planting is not always feasible and is necessary if you are replanting a large bush to a new place - it must be planted at the same level as it grew before. If you are planting young plants, separated from the mother bush, it is important not to deepen the rhizome (this applies to all types of irises), especially on heavy soils, or low areas. It is enough to deepen the rhizome a little into the ground and lightly sprinkle it with soil. They themselves will eventually rise from the ground.

The distance between plantings depends on the height of the variety: low at a distance of about 25-40 cm, medium-sized 50-70 cm, high up to 80 cm.

From personal experience (Elena Kutsulova): “We have a light peaty soil, we improve it by adding humus and sand, loam is simply not available. So bearded men bloom very well every year, they are almost not affected by diseases. But when planting, they have to be deepened a little, contrary to the rules. If you plant a rhizome on the surface, the plants are very unstable, even undersized varieties need to be tied up - the earth is loose, does not hold well, and the garters spoil the whole look of the flower bed. Without garters, the wind flutters, I would like the site to be less blown, but what we got, we are waiting for the fruit trees to grow up.Our peat soil always lacks moisture, after rain the earth instantly dries up, so be guided by the planting depth according to the type of soil - on light sandy and peaty soils, add iris rhizomes to a depth of no more than 1-2 cm. "

You need to know that the formation of a flower bud in bearded irises does not occur immediately, it takes about three years. Therefore, after planting young plants, when the bush has no more than 3-5 leaves, the flowering is weak - no more than one or two flower arrows. For high-quality flowering, you need to have at least 7-9 leaves in one fan.

Transplant and division technique

You need to dig out the irises with a pitchfork, widely grasping the soil around the bush.

Shake off the ground, and divide the rhizome into pieces, so that each has 2-3 links of annual growth, i.e. 2-3 growth buds, a few leaves and a small part of the roots.

In order for the cuttings to take root faster, you need to cut off the leaves, leaving the green part about 10-12 cm, or cut it by 2/3 of the length by eye. If the roots on the separated rhizome are strong, then in order to balance the aboveground and underground parts, they also need to be shortened by about 1/3 of the length. If the roots are small, you do not need to cut anything.

Now the rhizomes need to be dried for several hours, and if the soil is very damp, for example, in rainy weather, it is necessary to dry it for 1-2 days. In any case, all cuts of the rhizome and the edge of the trimmed leaves must be powdered with colloidal sulfur or crushed coal to protect them from decay.

The dimensions of the holes to be dug in the new flower bed must correspond to the dimensions of the rhizome and roots, since we will not deepen the planting.

In the future, planting irises is no different, say, from planting bulbs, for example, lilies or other flowers with a thick fleshy rhizome: pour sand on the bottom of the dug hole, straighten the roots and sprinkle it with earth.

We try to place the upper part of the rhizome exactly at ground level.

We lightly compact the earth with our palms, at a distance of about 20 cm around the plant or group we make a side of the earth and water it if the earth is very dry.

If you are buying iris planting material on the market, try to choose healthy plants:

• the rhizome is firm, elastic to the touch, without mold and stains
• the roots are juicy, not dry in a thread, alive
• cut leaf stalks green

Brown spots on the leaves are permissible - this is treated with available fungicides, but a strong yellowing of the bases of the leaves may indicate imminent death, such layers may not take root or survive the winter.

By the way, if after dividing from the old mother bush you still have parts of the rhizome without leaves and roots, but quite healthy in appearance, without damage, do not throw it away - dig it somewhere in a temporary flower bed, next season its dormant buds will wake up, grow back roots and you will receive additional planting material, although perhaps weaker.

Iris rhizome storage

If you bought rhizomes of bearded irises in late autumn, or ordered by mail in an online store, then they can be saved and planted in the ground in spring.

The rhizomes are stored in a cool place at temperatures from 0 to +4 degrees for several months.

For storage, it is better to use food paper bags (from flour) and semi-dry sphagnum moss. You can simply wrap it in several layers of newspaper and fold it into a box. To prevent the rhizomes from damp and rot, they do not need to be wrapped in a bag - storage only in a dry state.

Iris care

These flowers delight with their unpretentiousness. There is no need to dance with tambourines over them - they take root well during transplantation, they easily endure any weather, except for prolonged rains.

All care is as follows:

• tying tall varieties to a support
• watering in dry hot weather only during the formation of buds and flowering, about once a week, if it is abnormally hot and dry - twice, if it rains periodically iris does not need watering
• timely fertilizing with fertilizers
• spraying against diseases and pests twice - before flowering and with the end of flowering, the leaves remain green, pruning is not required
• if, nevertheless, the leaves are covered with spots, shorten them, leaving 12-15 cm
• shelter for the winter of heat-loving varieties or in regions with severe winters

Top dressing

Two or three additional dressings per summer season are enough for Irises.

• the first - in the spring at the beginning of regrowth
• the second - at the beginning of bud formation
• third - two weeks after flowering

If the soil in the beds is well prepared before planting, the first top dressing can be skipped. But in the second or third year after planting, it is desirable. You can apply the following recipe: 20-30 g of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate and 20-30 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water - this solution is per 1 sq. m. of soil. You can carry out the first feeding with a solution of humus - not mullein or manure, namely humus (manure that has lain for three years) diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5, add a handful of ash and water with this solution.

The second and third top dressing should contain a minimum of nitrogen, you can use a complex ready-made fertilizer for flowers, for example, Fertika-lux, Agricola, Greenworld-flower, Zdraven aqua for garden flowers and others.

It is important that the second feeding contains more potassium, the third one contains more phosphorus. Top dressing should be applied only on wet soil, but traditional loosening is not needed. Irises practically do not need loosening at all - you can damage the roots. You just need to remove the weeds in a timely manner.

If you missed the last feeding, it is better and do not try to do it later than mid-July, untimely fertilization is more harmful than underfeeding. Excess nitrogen is especially dangerous.

Shelter of irises for the winter

Shelter is required only for thermophilic varieties, for example, American selection, as well as for young bushes planted this summer. We cover them with straw, spruce branches and non-woven material. If the soil is light, sandy, mulch the irises before wintering with peat.

You need to cover the plants after the soil dries well after rains, you can after the first frost before snowfall. Before hiding in mid-October - early November, be sure to cut off the leaves, leaving about 10 cm from the ground.

In the spring, you need to remove the shelter on time so that the plants do not vomit, it is imperative to rake the peat if poured.

Diseases and pests

Irises most of all suffer from rot caused by improper planting, too heavy moisture-absorbing soil or prolonged dampness, rains. To avoid this, plant irises only in raised beds, do not plant the tubers too tightly and plant in a timely manner. Water only as needed - during budding and flowering, and with the end of flowering, there is enough rainfall and dew. If rot has already appeared, you need to water the soil in the flower beds with a 0.2% solution of foundationol.

From high air humidity, often on the leaves, especially after flowering, spots of a fungal nature appear - leaf spot. Therefore, immediately after flowering, you can spray on the leaves with solutions of fungicides (for example, copper oxychloride), cut off the affected leaves.

Of the pests, irises are most threatened by the bear, slugs and thrips.

The easiest way to fight against slugs is by laying out traps - put wet rags between the bushes, collect slugs from them early in the morning and destroy them. Spraying with insecticides (karbofos, decis, aktara, confidor, etc.) helps from thrips - spraying must be carried out before flowering, even at the stage of bud formation.

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Have

irises

there is a special anti-vandal property - you don't want to rip them off! When the question arises, what flowers to plant near the entrance, subconsciously often choose irises (they are cockerels, or irises). A huge number of different shades have determined their name: irises are named after the goddess of the rainbow.

They bloom in the spring, and some varieties bloom again in the fall. These perennial plants bloom especially magnificently in the 3rd year after planting. Rhizome irises are extremely unpretentious and are not afraid of winter. So the former wildflower has become a city flower.

Maybe for some it will turn out to be a discovery, but under the general name "iris" there are actually several very similar externally, but different plants: rhizomatous and bulbous iris. The latter, in turn, includes three genera: xyphium, iridodictium and juno. Each of them has its own characteristics.

Planting irises

Rhizome irises photophilous. But, as you can see from the photo above, they can bloom under a tree, especially in the southern regions. Most of all, they do not like excesses: an excess of organic fertilizers and waterlogging of the soil can destroy them.

If you have a choice, purchase large rhizomes - they have more supply of nutrients. If the division has 7 or more leaves, the iris will bloom the next year, in the spring.

The optimal time for planting bearded irises is late summer, August. But in practice, rhizome irises are divided and transplanted either during flowering, or immediately after its completion (within a month).

For all the unpretentiousness of irises, it is impossible to plant them in heavy soil. Add sand and peat, shovel well this mixture. Depleted soil can be fertilized with a minimum nitrogen content. On acidic soil, irises grow vigorously leaves, but do not bloom or bloom weakly. In this case, the soil is neutralized with ash or chalk.

If groundwater is close, consider soil drainage. Then you will avoid the most unpleasant disease for irises - root rot.

The earth is dug onto the bayonet of the shovel. Fertilizers (if necessary) are applied a week before planting. It should be planted shallowly so that the bud is at the surface level (the upper part of the rhizome cannot be covered with earth), the leaves should be arranged vertically. Leave about 40 cm between the plants for further growth. Water immediately after planting. The next watering is not earlier than 3 days later.

It happens, for some reason, you need to save the planting material for 2 weeks. Do not keep the rhizomes in plastic bags or in a damp cloth. Store them in a cool dry place, always with good ventilation.

Bulbous irises

love the sun, moisture and well-heated fertile loose soil. The most undemanding to watering is Juno, she loves arid places. Sunny rocky slides are the best place for her.

Landing dates: in the middle lane - in the middle of September, in the south - in the middle of October. For the winter, it is better to cover the planting with a covering material. In the spring, they will grow very early, sometimes even the snow will not have time to melt. Planting depth - 2 bulb heights, but not less than 5 cm.

After flowering (May-June) for a month, when the leaves are about half dry, the bulbs need to be dug out. The main thing is not to miss the moment: if they are flooded with rains, the risk of fungal diseases will increase. The dug out bulbs are washed in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate or another fungicide, quickly dried and stored in a dry ventilated room until planting.

Iris care

Per

rhizome with irises, care is minimal. At first, weeds are pulled out by hand, since the root system of flowers is located at the very surface of the soil. Loosening must also be done carefully. When the bearded irises grow, weeding and loosening will be unnecessary.

Bulbous species require more care. In autumn, yellow leaves with brown spots must be removed. In exotic species, the leaves are cut to half the length. At the end of autumn, heat-loving varieties are snatched away. In early spring, hurry to take off the "coverlet".

Withered flowers are always removed by cutting off the peduncle as close to the rhizome as possible.

In dry summers, blooming irises are watered in the evening, making sure that the water does not get on the flowers.In windy places, tall irises are tied up: the peduncles can break under the weight of the flowers.

Fertilizer It is advisable to feed both rhizome and bulbous irises three times:

• in the spring
• during bud formation
• rhizome - in August, bulbous - within a month after flowering.

Pests You can spray irises against pests once every 2 weeks (if necessary). Treatments are most effective 6 weeks before flowering. Usually this is not necessary, pests are not the main enemy of irises.

Diseases If rot appears on the rhizomes, it must be cleaned out to healthy tissue, then treated with a special solution. Then the rhizome is dried all day in the open air, occasionally turning it over. The soil from the place where the iris grew is removed.

Types of irises

There are many types and varieties of irises, it is impossible to list them all in one article. Therefore, let's pay attention to the most popular ones.

The cockerels familiar to all are bearded irises.

Bulbous xyphyums have a smaller flower size, but there are also plenty of varieties. The chic broadleaf Dutch varieties are especially beautiful:

• ‘Blue Champion’;
• ‘Ideal’;
• ‘Symphony’.

and narrow-leaved:

• ‘Seafire Beauty’;
• ‘Yellow Queen’.

Some varieties of iridodictium boast a delicate pattern on the petals.

Juno flowers have rather narrow petals.

Your flowers will be healthy if you love them. Have a nice season!

Other articles about irises:

• Master class on the division of bearded irises.
• Visiting an iris breeder.
• Irises are the kings of flower beds!
• All about irises.

Iris is a very common garden culture, loved by flower growers for its decorative qualities, spectacular and bright flowering. Irises are great for growing in flower beds, flower beds, mixborders, along fences and so on. The culture blooms in late spring, often blooms again in early autumn.

This is a perennial, and, it would seem, caring for it does not imply much trouble. However, our readers have a lot of questions: how to plant an iris correctly and how to care for it? What are the features of caring for individual species? What do irises hurt and how to treat them? We decided to answer all questions regarding planting and caring for irises in one article.

Part 1. General rules of planting and care

Despite the fact that iris is considered an unpretentious crop, you will need to follow simple rules for planting and caring for a plant. It is also important to consider the type and variety of the plant, since each species has its own characteristics.

Landing

How, when and where to plant irises?

Before planting irises, you need to choose the right place for planting. The groundwater level at the site should not be too high. If the groundwater is still too close to the soil surface, then you will need to make a drainage layer or add a layer of soil, raising the area by about 15 cm.

The plant prefers the sun, so the area should be open and well lit. In the shade, iris does not bloom as intensely and for a long time as in the sun.

It is also important that the site is protected from winds. If such a place cannot be found, then it will be possible in the future to use the supports for tying tall plants.

It is possible to plant irises with bulbs in the spring in the ground... In this case, we are talking about bulbous irises. As you know, irises are rhizome and bulbous. Planting dates in spring are from March to May, the main thing is that the soil warms up to at least 10 degrees Celsius. Flowering is likely already in June, but very often irises bloom only the next year, or the flowering turns out to be rather weak.

Planting irises in autumn should come true a few weeks before frost... Better - in a month. The main thing is that the plant has time to take root before the cold sets in. Otherwise, freezing or even death of the culture is likely.

But most often, planting is carried out in the summer, starting from the middle of it. Experienced gardeners recommend planting it is in the summer, because before winter the irises will have time to lay buds, and already at the end of spring next year they will begin to bloom successfully without the risk of freezing in winter.

Video on the topic "Planting irises with bulbs in the ground"

What soil do irises like - acidic or alkaline? Not that and not that. Irises prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil... On acidic soil, the plant will not delight with its flowers, and also undergoes a bacterial disease. Therefore, if the plant has already been planted on such a soil, you will need to add lime, chalk or ash to it to neutralize the soil.

In addition, the plant does not like heavy soils. It is recommended to add sand, peat or compost to such soil. If there is an excess of peat in the soil, then organic matter will be required.

What is a correct and incorrect fit? Incorrect landing occurs excessive deepening of the root system into the ground , which complicates the process of cultural development. This will negatively affect flowering. It can also cause the plant to die.

Stages of planting rhizome iris:

1. Dig a hole and make a small earthen mound in its center;
2. Put the central root on this hill and distribute the lateral roots on the sides of the hole;
3. When planting rhizome iris, it should be remembered that the rhizome should be practically level with the ground;
4. Sprinkle the lateral roots with earth and compact, and cover the central root with sand, the layer of which should not exceed 2 cm.

Stages of planting iris bulbs:

1. Make a hole and put the onion in it. The bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom;
2. Cover the onion with soil. The planting depth of an iris bulb is three bulb diameters. Usually this is about 10 cm. This is very important, otherwise the bulb close to the surface of the soil may freeze in winter. This is especially true for thermophilic species. The deeper the bulb is, the higher the chances of successful germination;
3. The distance between the irises during planting requires about 10 cm.

If the bulbs were purchased too early, then in early spring it is possible to plant irises in pots. When the soil warms up, the iris can be transplanted to the garden plot.

When will the iris bloom after planting?

If the plant was planted in autumn or summer, then flowering can be seen next spring. If the planting was carried out in the spring, then it is likely that flowering will come only after a year, although often in the summer you can enjoy the flowers.

Growing from seeds

Seeds of bearded iris.

How to grow irises from seeds? There are two methods of growing iris from seed:

• Sowing seeds in September;
• Sowing seeds in March.

When sowing in September, there is a risk that frosts will start late, when the seeds have time to germinate. In this case, the seedling will most likely freeze.

How to store seeds until March:

• Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and put in a container;
• Keep the container under the freezer;
• After a month, transfer the container to a warm, but not too hot place;
• As soon as the seeds hatch, they must be planted in light soil with mandatory supplementary lighting;
• In May, it is already possible to transplant seedlings into open ground.

Important!Growing from seeds is possible only for species of irises, since they retain the qualities of mother crops.

Is it possible and how to grow irises from seeds from China? The process itself is the same as when growing from harvested or purchased seeds. However, the success of growing Chinese seeds has been questioned. Most flower growers failed to grow plants (not only irises, but also other crops) from seeds from China.

Care basics

How to care for irises? What kind of plant care is needed after winter? How to create favorable growing conditions for a culture?

Care for rhizome irises is minimal. After planting, you need to carefully manually remove the weeds, as well as carefully loosen the soil, since the root system of the plant is close to the ground. Subsequently, when the plant grows, weeding and loosening the soil is unnecessary.

It is required to follow a number of care rules:

• Watering the plant is required in dry weather every day, and in normal weather - about 3 times a week. Watering must be done in the evening and controlled so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant;
• To prevent the wind from breaking the stems of tall irises, they need to be tied to supports;
• In bulbous species, it is necessary to remove old, wilted leaves, and also cut off the peduncles at the end of flowering;
• Fertilizers must be applied three times:
  1. In the springtime;
  2. During the budding period;
  3. Within a month after the end of flowering - for bulbous plants, and for rhizome plants - in August.

Top dressing in the spring should be in the form of fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. During the budding period, the same fertilizers are required, but the amount of potassium and nitrogen must be increased. After the end of flowering, fertilizing is applied with the content of phosphorus and potassium.

Important! No fertilization is required during the flowering stage.

Caring for irises after flowering includes the following steps:

1. Shelter for the winter;
2. Fertilizing the soil with mineral dressings;
3. Pruning flower stalks and stems.

What should be the wintering of irises?

It is recommended to cover young specimens for the winter.... This also applies to thermophilic iris varieties. Spruce branches or dry foliage are suitable as a shelter. With the arrival of spring, do not hesitate to remove the shelter, but do it as early as possible. You can also dig up bulbs of heat-loving species for the winter.

Adult specimens tolerate frost more easily, it is not necessary to cover them.

Pruning

Pruning Germanic or bearded iris.

Pruning is done in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the plant and prevent the iris from wasting energy on seed formation.

How to trim:

• Pruning is done at the end of flowering;
• Faded flowers are removed along with a green receptacle;
• You can also remove the flower stems. At the same time, it is important to preserve the leaves;
• Also, in the spring after winter, you can remove old, wilted leaves;
• All manipulations are carried out manually or using sharp scissors.

Caring for irises in the spring in the country includes:

• Removing the shelter when the threat of frost passes;
• Application of dressings - immediately after removing the shelter and during the period of bud formation;
• Treatment for diseases is required in the spring.

Can irises be grown at home?

It is possible, but for home cultivation it is better to use dwarf varieties. In this case, it is required to observe a number of rules:

• Adequate sunshine, especially during the flowering period;
• The temperature of the content should be no higher than 20 degrees;
• Watering the iris is required once a week, and during the flowering period, increase the frequency of watering up to 3 times a week;
• Top dressing is required to be applied two weeks after planting, during the budding period and at the end of flowering;
• The air must be dry.

Part 2. Nuances of growing

Iris includes 800 species. Some of them are successfully cultivated all over the world. All varieties are different. For example, Dutch iris is a bulbous crop, while Siberian and bearded irises are rhizome plants. Planting and care of all varieties have their own characteristics.

Siberian

This variety is considered the most hardy. It has a rhizome system. The cultivation of this culture is possible not only in central Russia, but also in the northern regions.

Nuances of Siberian irises care:

• Adequate sunshine and warmth. Sunlight is especially important when grown in northern regions;
• Water-permeable soil that does not retain moisture with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• Two-time feeding: at the beginning of spring and during the period of bud formation;
• Pruning old leaves and wilted flower stalks.

The planting of Siberian irises is different.Their roots need to be buried about 7 cm into the ground.

Japanese or xiphoid

Japanese irises

Japanese irises are thermophilic and rather unpretentious plants. The rules for planting and leaving this plant as a whole do not differ from the agricultural technology of other varieties.

Xiphoid iris care includes:

• Adequate sunshine;
• Top dressing two or three times a year. It is recommended to give preference to mineral fertilizers, but organic substances should not be neglected;
• Shelter for the winter is mandatory when growing a crop in central Russia or in the northern regions;
• Autumn leaf pruning.

When planting, the root system needs to be buried about 6 cm into the ground so that the rhizome does not freeze in winter.

Mesh

These are bulbous crops. It is advisable to plant them at the beginning of the autumn period. The bulb is deepened according to the general rules for planting bulbous plants.

Features of care for mesh iris:

• Nutritious, permeable and light soil;
• Adequate sunshine;
• Correct watering. There should be no stagnant water in the ground. Watering is required only in dry weather, and during the budding period, the soil should always be moistened;
• Mineral fertilizers and compost are used as top dressing.

Dutch

Dutch iris is a bulbous plant. Their bulbs are medium-sized. It is recommended to plant them at the end of summer, since the bulbs do not tolerate autumn cold snaps well.

Caring for bulbous Dutch iris means:

• Excess moisture in the soil is fraught with diseases up to the death of the plant; watering is required only during a prolonged drought;
• Sufficient light;
• It is recommended to dig out the bulbs after flowering.

Swamp

It differs from other types of marsh (water) iris, it has its own characteristics of care. This type is ideal for decorating decorative ponds in garden plots. Planting the variety is recommended in early autumn or at the very end of summer. At the same time, it is recommended to choose damp areas for planting, even flooded areas can be selected. This is the most common wild iris.

The nuances of caring for marsh iris:

• Do not allow the soil to dry out;
• Adequate sunshine;
• Wind protection;
• Application of dressings, including in the fall before preparing for winter;
• Autumn leaf pruning.

There is no need to cover the marsh iris, they are frost-resistant.

Bearded

Popular bearded iris variety Gypsy

It is one of the most popular and beautiful varieties of the culture. Planting such an iris should be carried out in the summer, preferably in the middle of the summer. It is important to choose the right site for planting. The soil must be permeable, since the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture. The reaction of the soil is alkaline or slightly acidic. Heavy and clayey soils are not suitable for bearded iris.

Bearded iris care includes:

• Watering only in dry weather;
• Sufficient light;
• Pruning old leaves at the end of summer;
• Shelter for the winter. It is especially necessary for tall varieties;
• Application of dressings three times a year: in the spring (nitrogen fertilizers), during the budding period (potassium-phosphorus), in the fall (potassium-phosphorus). Also, bearded iris responds well to the introduction of humus and compost.

Germanic

One of the favorite flowers of gardeners is the Germanic iris, planting and caring for which is similar to the bearded iris. It can be planted from spring to autumn. The soil should be permeable, slightly acidic or neutral. Top dressing - three times a year, watering only in drought. The video below shows the planting of a German iris in pots, the video is not in Russian, but everything is clear.

Undersized

Low-growing (dwarf, curb) species are a form of bearded irises. They differ only in the difference in height. Their height does not exceed 40 cm, but on average they grow no higher than 20 cm.Border (undersized) irises are perfect for framing flower beds and paths, for mixborders, rabatok, planting and caring for which is simple.

Features of planting and caring for dwarf irises:

• You need to plant plants in a sunny place, in a nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic soil without stagnant moisture;
• When planting, it must be remembered that the root system of such an iris should be close to the surface of the soil, it does not need to be deeply buried;
• Top dressing three times a year.

Thin-leaved

It is an easy-to-care culture. It is resistant to drought and frost.

Features of planting and caring for thin-leaved iris:

• The plant needs watering only during the drought period;
• Planting from spring to autumn;
• Application of dressings according to the standard scheme;
• Adequate sunshine.

If bouquets of irises were presented or they were cut with your own hands to decorate the apartment, then you will need to follow several rules so that the plants stay in the vase longer. Caring for cut irises includes:

1. Daily change of water in the vase;
2. Periodic washing of the vase in hot water;
3. Spraying plants;
4. Keep in a cool place;
5. Distance from radiators and heaters.

Part 3. Difficulties

Iris, like any other crop, can bring a lot of trouble to its owners. Usually the reason for this is inadequate care of them.

Diseases

The most common diseases in beards and other iris species are viral and fungal infections. What should be the treatment and control of iris diseases?

Mosaic Is a viral disease. It manifests itself in the form of stripes and spots on the leaves. The virus is carried by aphids.

To date, effective methods of treating the viral mosaic have not been found, therefore, preventive measures must be followed:

1. Remove infected seedlings immediately;
2. Observe the watering regime, apply fertilizers, and also treat the plant from insect pests and diseases. Suitable drugs such as "Actellik", "Confidorm" and others).

Bacterial rot found on brown spots on the leaves of the plant. The disease can be detected in the spring after wintering. It will be necessary to remove the affected areas, then treating the areas with a solution of potassium permanganate. If the disease has gone too far, then it is better to destroy the affected plants, and treat the soil with antibacterial agents.

The causes of bacterial rot are:

• Freezing of the root system;
• Excessive soil moisture;
• Dense plantings;
• Lack of calcium and phosphorus in the soil.

The material in the video below is about bacterial rot and how to deal with it.

Gray rot can affect either stems and leaves or the root system. The main reason is stagnation of water in the ground. Therefore, iris should be planted exclusively in well-drained soil. The exception is marsh iris. Also, the reason may be a lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. It is required to treat the disease with the help of fungicides, and if the plants are very badly affected, then it is better to destroy them.

Pests

The most common pests include:

1. Scoops;
2. Iris fly;
3. Thrips;
4. Medvedka;
5. Slugs.

Scoops - this is an extremely dangerous pest for a flower. Firstly, they eat up the base of the peduncle, as a result of which the plant turns yellow and may even die, and, secondly, the activity of scoops leads to the development of bacteriosis. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat the plant with karbofos.

Iris fly (iris flower girl) visually similar to an ordinary fly. Because of this pest, bud diseases develop. She feeds on the buds of culture that have not yet opened. As a result, the bud begins to rot. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat iris with insecticidal preparations (Aktellik, Aktara) even at the stage of bud formation.

Iris buds infested with iris fly larvae.

About the iris fly and the fight against it - on video

Thrips - very dangerous pests despite their miniature size. Initially, these pests settle on the leaves, which leads to their gradual drying and yellowing. Then they move to the buds. Subsequently, the buds are damaged and do not open. You can treat it with karbofos with the addition of laundry soap. You can also use insecticidal preparations (Aktellik, Aktara).

Medvedka - a very common pest, especially in the southern regions of Russia. It can cause irreparable damage to irises. The pest damages the root system and bulbs. You can fight the bear by adding crushed eggshells dipped in vegetable oil to the soil. It will also be effective to fill the pest moves with soapy water or a solution of washing powder. In the fight against the bear, the marigolds planted nearby help.

Slugs infect iris leaves, and are also a distributor of bacterial rot. They are collected by hand, and the soil is treated with superphosphate. For prevention, it is recommended to remove weeds around the plants in time.

Problems

Often, iris owners are faced with the following problems:

• The appearance of spots on the leaves of brown or yellow color... The reason is waterlogging of the soil or frequent precipitation. Damaged leaves must be trimmed. As a preventive measure, it is necessary in the spring, a month or two before the beginning of flowering, to treat the culture with fungicides;
• If the flower blooms poorly and sluggishly, then it does not have enough sunlight. Also, a possible reason is the excessive acidity of the soil;
• Wrinkles on the leaves Is a temporary phenomenon caused by bad weather conditions. Does not harm the plant;
• Suspension of flowering can be caused by: strong growth of the root system, depletion of the soil, freezing of flower buds, damage to the crop by pests and diseases, lack of watering in drought.

These are not all the difficulties in growing irises, we will be glad to see your other questions and comments.

Named after the goddess of the rainbow Iris, these luxurious flowers bloom in all their glory at the beginning of summer, delight us with the most varied natural variations in shades and shapes, as well as a pronounced fresh aroma. Caring for a beautiful plant is easy, so you don't have to be persuaded to buy it. However, not every gardener knows that irises can be grown from bulbs. In order for the iris to grow in an amicable way and flaunt in your garden, familiarize yourself with the conditions for the correct planting of bulbous irises in open ground in spring and autumn.

Varieties and varieties of bulbous irises: descriptions and nuances of care and cultivation

As a rule, irises are self-rooted plants, they are also called rhizome, but there are also bulbous flowers. Despite the fact that outwardly they are very similar and it is almost impossible to distinguish them, planting and caring for them are somewhat different.

Bulbous irises include 3 distinct genera, each with its own characteristics: xyphium, iridodictium, and juno.

Xiphium

These bulbous irises got this name due to the shape of their leaves, reminiscent of swords (from the Greek "xiphium" - "sword"), respectively, they are narrow and elongated.

By the way! The northwest of the Mediterranean coast is considered the birthplace of xyphyums, therefore, without digging, they can only be grown in warm and dry southern regions. It is obligatory to dig in the middle lane (Moscow region).

The shape of flowers in xyphyums is the simplest of all bulbous irises, but rather large - up to 10 centimeters in diameter. The height of the flowers themselves is from 30 to 80 centimeters.

The inflorescences of these irises have purple, blue, blue, yellow or white flowers. You can often find a two-tone color. It all depends on what specific species and variety you purchase.

Interesting! Xyphyum is also called Dutch iris.

Iridodictium (Iridodictyum) or reticulated (reticulata)

Such a complex name ("Iridodictium") got these bulbous flowers because of the bright (variegated) color of their inflorescences (from the Greek "iris" - "rainbow") and the structure of the upper layer of the bulbs, which, as it were, in a mesh (from the Greek. "Diction" - "grid"), so they are sometimes called mesh.

The place of active growth is the mountainous area of ​​Central Asia and the Western Urals, as well as the Caucasus and the Balkans. Actually, therefore, they are the most adaptable to difficult conditions, for example, the same middle zone (Moscow region), and theoretically they can be grown in one place for 4-5 years without digging for the summer.

Iridodictiums are quite miniature in size. In height, they can reach no more than 15 cm, the diameter of the flowers is about 5-7 cm. The leaves of these bulbous flowers are narrow and tough, appear simultaneously with the buds. A distinctive feature of iridodictiums is their amazing, one might even say, exotic flowers, which not only have a very unusual color, but they still smell pleasantly, possessing a very rich aroma.

As a rule, the period of flowering of iridodictiums falls on March-April, the period is about 2 weeks.

Juno

It is not hard to guess where these bulbous irises got their name from. Yes, that's right, in honor of the name of the Roman goddess Juno, who was considered the main patroness of women.

They are very widespread in the Caucasus Mountains, in Asia Minor and Central Asia, in South Africa, as well as in the Mediterranean. Therefore, along with iridodictiums, junons are considered quite viable and can grow safely up to 4-5 years in the same place without digging and transplanting.

Depending on the species (they are the most widely represented - 40 species, iridodictium - 11, and xyphium - only 6 species), the height of plants can vary within 10-50 centimeters.

The structure of the juno is the most unusual among all bulbous irises: on the trunk, the leaves grow in several rows, and from the axils of these leaves, as well as at the top of the stem, flowers appear.

Their inflorescences, as a rule, can be white, yellow, purple and lilac in color. And some species have a very pleasant smell.

In most cases, junons bloom a little later than reticulated irises, that is, in April-May, but longer, somewhere in 2-3 weeks.

By the way! Juno is very fond of drystony places, that is, she practically does not need any additional watering.

When to plant bulbous irises: optimal timing

The optimal planting time for bulbous irises is late summer - early autumn. In general, it is better to plant small-bulbous ones a little earlier, because with a shallow planting, the bulbs can suffer with a sharp drop in temperature, so it is better to give them more time for rooting.

So, in the middle lane (Moscow region), irises are best planted in late August - early September, and in warm southern regions, the procedure can be postponed to October, which definitely cannot be done in the Urals and Siberia.

However, it often happens that in early spring (or at the end of winter - in February) iris bulbs appear on sale, you cannot help buying them, or they are presented to you. What to do in this case?

Important! It will hardly be possible to save them until autumn, because they will either dry out, or rot, or simply grow out.

To plant bulbous irises in the spring and try to get them to bloom already this season, you can try to simulate the cooling period, namely: put in the refrigerator in a box or in some kind of container (and so that the sprouts, if they sprout, look up, and not bent), or put it in a pot of earth and put it on the balcony or in the same refrigerator. And then land in April-May.

By the way! According to gardeners, irises planted in spring most often really bloom this year, but only in summer.

Video: planting bulbous irises in a pot

How to plant bulbous irises in open ground: rules and recommendations

In order to successfully and effectively grow your favorite flowers, you must consistently and clearly follow the following rules and recommendations.

Planting site and soil

It is optimal for bulbous irises to choose a well-lit, sunny and calm place, without access to drafts, in light partial shade. Like all bulbous, lowlands (in which moisture will accumulate in the spring) and areas with too close groundwater are categorically unsuitable for planting. Excessive moisture is harmful to the bulbs.

For planting spring bulbous irises, choose places near your home or near garden paths so that they often come across your eyes during their short flowering. A rock garden or rocky garden is perfect. It is beautiful to plant them next to other bulbs blooming in early spring, for example, with the same crocuses, daffodils, tulips.

With crocuses

As for the soil, it is good to plant these bulbous dogs in light, permeable and fertile soil with neutral acidity.

Preparing the bulbs

If you do not want your iris bulbs, God forbid, to rot, then before planting, hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate or a special fungicide for etching, such as "Maxim Dachnik" or "Fundazol".

Direct landing

Step-by-step instructions for planting bulbous irises in open ground:

1. Decide on the best place for growing.
2. Prepare planting holes and soil. Make drainage (pour a small layer of sand), if necessary (for loose soil, it is not needed).
3. The planting depth of iris bulbs is 3 bulb heights, that is, about 5-8 cm.
4. The distance between the iris bulbs is 2-3 bulb diameters (6-10 cm). But if you want to get a beautiful bouquet, then plant it closer.
5. Place the bulbs on the bottom of the hole and press them lightly into the ground (or sand).
6. Cover with fertile soil.
7. Drizzle slightly with water.
8. Cover with compost or peat.

How to care for bulbous irises outdoors

In principle, there is nothing difficult in the care and cultivation of bulbous irises, but some standard garden manipulations still have to be remembered and carried out.

Watering

Bulbous irises require moderate watering. It is especially important not to forget to water the plant in dry weather (including in the fall after planting, if there is no rain at all), namely during the period of their active growth, that is, during the formation of buds and direct flowering. At the end of flowering, watering is no longer required. Flowers now need period dry rest.

Advice! If you do not want an unaesthetic earthen crust to form around the irises after watering, then do not forget to loosen the soil.

Top dressing

If you want a brighter and more lush bloom, then you should fertilize the irises several times in the spring.

• So, during the first feeding, which should be performed immediately after removing the shelter, that is, even in the earliest spring, at the beginning of the growing season, you need to make nitrogen fertilizer (a small content of potassium and phosphorus is also allowed).
• When will the period start budding, then the flower should be fed already potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (with big contentpotassium, the presence of nitrogen is also allowed).
• Straightaway after flowering should be done exclusivelyphosphorus-potassium top dressing.

Digging the bulbs

It is very important to dig up the iris bulbs in time, otherwise they can rot due to excessive moisture (rain). If tulips, as a rule, they are dug up only after their leaves turn yellow, then in the case of bulbous irises, you do not need to wait so long. It is optimal to get them out of the ground approximately 2 weeks after floweringwhen they just wilt slightly and begin to turn yellow. As a rule, this moment falls on the end of May - beginning of June.

Note! Irises do not need to be dug up for the summer if during this period you (in your climatic zone) have no rain at all, because they require a dry dormant period.

The dug iris bulbs should be disinfect in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or any other fungicide (for example, "Maxim Dachnik" or "Fundazol"), then as followsdry (2-3 weeks) and pput in storage in a dry room with good ventilation until a new autumn planting in open ground.

Important! As mentioned earlier, each genus of bulbous irises has its own characteristics of cultivation So,xyphyums should be dried at a higher temperature (+ 30-35 degrees), and Iridodictiums and Juno - medium enough (+ 20-25 degrees). In the last days of drying, the temperature should be lowered to + 15-18 degrees.

Shelter for the winter

If autumn is rainy, then so that the iris bulbs do not get wet from excessive moisture, they should be covered with something, for example, roofing felt or a plastic cake box.

If your winters are cold and snowless, then spruce branches and dry leaves are suitable for a winter shelter, you can also cover it with spunbond or film. Especially the more thermophilic junons need shelter for the winter.

Important! Do not forget to remove the shelter in early spring (immediately after the snow melts).

Thus, the main care for bulbous irises in the spring consists in removing the shelter, watering them (and loosening after), feeding and digging at the end of flowering.

To get a lot of positive from a delightful flower, you need to seriously think about the intricacies of planting and growing bulbous irises in the open field.

Video: features of planting and growing bulbous irises