Chrysanthemum planting and care outdoors in spring

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and caring for these flowers in the open field is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, but to propagate a plant in the fall, check out the main points. If you do not know how to form a beautiful bush with a ball, then remember, you need a pinch and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching ...

Methods and timing of reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, mother plants or by dividing a bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn, each season has its own advantages:

1. Seeds sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow by 10 cm, they are pinched. In the fall, chrysanthemums are already blooming
2. Cuttings Is a very popular breeding method for chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting off a stalk even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in a soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, not higher than + 15 ° C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of the frost, in the open ground. If you purchased a cuttings of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
3. Uterus - this is the overwintered rhizome of chrysanthemum, from which shoots will go, it can be purchased and planted in early spring
4. Dividing the bush - the only way to plant chrysanthemums in autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruning shears and planted. This procedure is supposed to be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field differ in spring and autumn - with spring planting, mother plants and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

In very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed the oak - this species unites many varieties zoned in the middle lane and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and easily freeze out.

For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, therefore, the waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferable slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm.The pit is dug shallow so that the shoots on the mother liquor or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth, when dividing the bush - this is about 40 cm.No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover it with soil and compact it. After spring planting, it is advisable to cover the cuttings from the sun with a spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly, this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, because of which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut and a third of the stems are left for the nutrients to go into the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, feeding, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum cannot stand moisture stagnation, but loves watering - without water, the stems become tough, the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling, it must be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, for chrysanthemums, nitrogen fertilization is necessary for rapid growth; it can be carried out 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of budding of chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthening of plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties are tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The onset of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or foliage. The most delicate varieties are wrapped on top with a covering material and something flat is placed on top to protect it from moisture - for example, a plywood board. Some growers dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to make sure the variety is preserved.

How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field is not all that is needed and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

Chrysanthemums after winter are pruned and pinched to get a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is chrysanthemum multiflora, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flower bed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the aerial part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up, and it is time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flower bed, the stems should be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven fabric for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers, add more humus and wood ash to the hole when planting.If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is sod land.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums, in small and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the lateral shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, they then actively branch, pinching is done until the buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, in total one or two pinches are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are stepchildren - from mid-July, shoots that appear from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.

It is difficult to imagine an autumn flower garden without perennial chrysanthemums. Their multicolor pleases the eye when the leaves on the trees have already flown, and there are simply no other garden flowers. Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums have their own nuances, but they do not present any particular difficulties.

Varieties and types

These perennial plants with flowers collected in baskets differ in both the height of the bushes and the size of the flowers and their color.

Alpine chrysanthemum.

These are low-growing bush chrysanthemum flowers. View for placement on an alpine hill, since the height of the plant does not exceed 14 cm. Its leaves are pinnately dissected gray-green, the flowers look like single baskets with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm. Flowering in the middle of summer. Hibernates without shelter.

Korean chrysanthemum.

It is this chrysanthemum that is most often grown in regions with frosty winters. Despite the fact that she comes from southern countries (Korea, Japan, China), the ups and downs of our climate withstand well, although it needs shelter.

Interesting varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements:

• Altyn Ai. The bush is not higher than 60 cm. It bears yellow double flowers up to 8 cm in diameter on strong peduncles. It begins to bloom in mid-August. Blooms profusely and continuously for more than 2 months.
• Dina. The bush is about 45 cm high. Flowering begins after August 10. The flowers are white, 8 cm in diameter. The flowering is very long - up to 70 days.
• Zemfira. Blooms at the end of July. It blooms for almost 3 months with medium-sized and non-double flowers of light pink color.
• Autumn dreams. It blooms for almost 3 months with yellow semi-double flowers with a diameter of 7.5 cm.

There are also varieties that have not been tested, but no less interesting:

• Bacon. Bright red flowers on a bush up to 85 cm in height bloom in September. They are terry, have a diameter of 5 cm.
• Evening lights. Inflorescences are simple red with a yellow ring.
• Orange sunset. Terry flowers, large (up to 11 cm), orange. The bush is about 80 cm high.
• Malchish-Kibalchish. A low-growing plant, no higher than 35 cm. It blooms with simple pink flowers in late summer.
• Umka. Tall, up to 110 cm, the bush is decorated with large pompom flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, white or slightly pinkish.
• Stranger. Winter-hardy variety, blooming from the end of July. White at first, large flowers are gradually painted at the tips in a lilac color.
• Inspiration. Flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, double, have a scent. Bloom in September. Differ in winter hardiness.

A special place is occupied by border garden chrysanthemums. Their bushes do not grow higher than 30 cm and, without any formation, take a spherical shape.

The best varieties:

• Talisman - beet-crimson flowers;
• Barbara with lilac-lilac flowers.

Perennial chrysanthemums: the nuances of growing

Chrysanthemum is a southerner and few species have been able to adapt to our climate. Fine large-flowered varieties can only be grown in the south. Even the more frost-resistant Korean chrysanthemums can freeze out in snowless winters. The peculiarity of plants is that they do not like wet wintering, so drainage is mandatory for them. Another nuance - the chrysanthemum bush is short-lived and needs to be updated every 3 years.

Landing in open ground

In the open field, you need to grow varieties adapted for frosty winters.Zoned varieties and grown from seeds grow, bloom and winter best.

Soil preparation and site

The place for chrysanthemums is chosen sunny, fully illuminated throughout the day. Even a little shading will inevitably affect flowering, and plant stems will stretch out. It is necessary to provide for protection from the wind. The site should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

• be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except for heavy clay;
• it is good to let water and air pass through;
• have a slightly acidic reaction, therefore it is useful to add peat to the planting pit;
• be fertile - flowering will be scarce on lean soils.

Digging for each square. m make up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils, sand is added for drainage.

You can not bring fresh manure under the chrysanthemums - the plants do not tolerate it.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that their flowering and compliance with varietal characteristics are visible. They are supplied in pots and therefore need replanting. But in the fall, it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant gives all its strength to flowering, and there simply will not be any left for rooting. The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring. In the southern regions it is held at the end of April or in May, while in the northern regions it will have to wait until the end of the return spring frosts.

• Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, on the bottom of which drainage must be placed.
• A handful of humus is added to each hole and the soil is shed well. Chrysanthemums are not buried when planting.
• The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
• It is necessary to provide a support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied.

Chrysanthemum care

For plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need to be properly cared for. The first thing that is done after rooting the cuttings is to pinch the top for better tillering. After 3 weeks, the pinching is repeated, forming a spherical shape of the bush. If the cuttings are received late, this operation is not necessary, such chrysanthemums are grown in a single-barrel culture. During the growing season, regular weeding, loosening of the soil, watering and feeding will be required.

Watering the plant

Chrysanthemums are sensitive to a lack of moisture, from this the stems become woody, and you cannot get full flowering. Excess water is also harmful - it promotes root rot. Therefore, you need to strive for the golden mean and focus on weather conditions. Watering is especially needed in dry weather and during flowering. Watered with settled water and only at the root.

Top dressing and fertilization

Feeding chrysanthemums requires both mineral and organic.

1. Every 2-3 weeks they are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizer. In the first half of the growing season with a predominance of nitrogen, in the second - phosphorus and potassium at the rate of 40 g per ten-liter bucket (this amount is enough for 2 square meters. M plantings).
2. 3 times per season, feeding is carried out with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Each plant will require a liter of solution.

All dressings are combined with watering with clean water. The next day, the soil needs to be loosened.

Post-flowering care and preparation for winter

This is the time to prepare for winter. In order for the wintering to be successful, a number of activities need to be carried out.

• Plants are fed with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
• The bushes are pruned, leaving about 15 cm of the stem.
• They sprinkle with earth brought from another part of the site so as not to expose the roots.
• Cover with a layer of dry leaves up to 40 cm thick.
• Cover the top with a material that traps snow - spruce branches or dry branches.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums are short-lived. In the third year, the middle of the bush falls out, and the flowers become smaller.

To renew the bushes and give them new life, the chrysanthemum is divided and planted in a new place.

Transplant time is spring.The bush must be carefully dug out, shaking off the ground a little. Divide the plants with a sharp knife. Each section should have kidneys and roots. Further actions are the same as when planting cuttings.

Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemum

Perennial garden chrysanthemums reproduce by dividing the bush, cuttings and sowing seeds. The latter plants will be best adapted to the climate of the growing area.

1. Seeds for seedlings are sown in early March in a mixture of the following composition bought in a store or prepared independently: garden soil, peat and humus in equal quantities.
2. Drainage is placed on the bottom of the sowing container.
3. Perennial chrysanthemum seeds are sown superficially, slightly pressing them to the ground.
4. The container is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 25 degrees.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the bag is not removed, but they do it gradually, accustoming the plants to fresh air. When the shoots acquire two true leaves, they are dived into separate cups.

Seedling keeping conditions:

• temperature 18 degrees;
• a lot of light, if necessary - additional lighting;
• top dressing every 14 days with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Seedlings are planted in the ground after frost, trying to preserve the roots as much as possible.

With seed reproduction, parental traits are not preserved.

For spring cuttings, you need to dig up the plant in the fall, plant it in a pot and take care of it in winter like a house flower. Cuttings are harvested from young shoots 5 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Placed in a container with sand under a glass jar. After rooting, the cuttings are grown and planted in the ground.

Plant diseases and pests

When growing garden perennial chrysanthemums, you can encounter some diseases.

Fungal diseases:

• gray rot (brown spots on the leaves, covered with a gray bloom);
• powdery mildew (white bloom);
• rust (small specks of chlorosis).

All of them are treated by treatment with copper-containing fungicides, and colloidal sulfur is also effective against rust.

Viral diseases:

• mosaic (speckled spots on the leaves);
• Aspermia (misshapen flowers and speckled leaves)
• dwarfism (small growth, not corresponding to the variety, premature flowering).

There is no cure, diseased plants are destroyed.

The main pests of chrysanthemums: nematodes, meadow bugs, aphids. In the first case, the fight against the pest is impossible. The plant is destroyed. As a preventive measure, the earth is spilled with a solution of phosphamide. For bedbugs and aphids, you can try the treatment with infusions of onion peel or hot pepper. If this does not help, treat the plants with insecticides.

From the middle of summer until the very frost, many homesteads, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright bushes of garden chrysanthemums. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flowers suitable for the garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm... Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of the flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm... The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant are in the form of oak leaves.Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until the very frost.

Mid-flowered or ornamental chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can be used to decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental shrubs grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only some of its varieties can winter outdoors. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports such as frames, metal nets, or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during the planting of the bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by golden inflorescences.
2. "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Daughter of Rosetta" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white shades.

Medium-sized. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both on a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
2. "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
3. "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Curb. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ballcovered with small flowers. In this group, the most popular varieties:

1. "Barbara" is a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
2. "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive fireworks.
3. "Talisman" is strewn with bright beetroot-crimson flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different kinds of flower shapes:

1. Pompom flowers are an assembly of tongues that are assembled into a ball that resembles a pompom.
2. Anemoid flowers consist of large petals, which are collected in one, two or three rows. The flowers themselves are small in size and very similar to anemone flowers.
3. Single-row and double-row inflorescences are bordered by flowers that look like tongues. In the center of such inflorescences, small tubular flowers grow. The border of flowers can be arranged in one or two rows.
4. Semi-double flowers consist of three rows of reeds that are arranged around a central flower.
5. Terry inflorescences are similar to semi-double ones, but their flowers are more lush, since they are diverse in appearance and shape.

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

It is recommended to plant a plant during the period from late May to mid-June... Until autumn, the bushes will have time to take root and get stronger. And then they will not be afraid of any winter frosts.

Landing features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.

The soil must be rich in organic matter.Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added to one square meter of soil. You don't need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

When planting a garden chrysanthemum, it is recommended:

1. For large bushes, the distance between the holes should be at least 50 cm, and for small bushes - 25 cm.
2. It is recommended to add drainage or sand to each hole.
3. When planting, the plant cannot be deeply deepened into the ground.
4. Near large, tall bushes, you must immediately install a support.
5. The leaves of the plant can be sprayed with Epin to help it adapt better. "Kornevin" is also suitable, with a solution of which the bush is watered.
6. If frosts are still expected, then the young bush should be covered with nonwoven material at night.

Care rules

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level... You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.

The amount of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small, stiff leaves can be watered less frequently than bushes with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic in the form of humates are used. During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums involves forming a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim... For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the lateral shoots grow up to 10 cm, they also pinch the crown. After that, the bush grows to bloom.

During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and wilted buds should be regularly removed from its bush. This way the flowering period can be extended.

If you want to get big beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of side shoots. As a result, only one stalk and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.

Winter garden chrysanthemum care

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter... Therefore, after the end of flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant hides and covers itself with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of freezing temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug out together with an earthen lump and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored before planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rarely watering an earthen coma, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as soon as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is posed by:

1. Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be found by the cobweb formations on the back of the sheet. If the leaves of a chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then, most likely, a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
3. Verticillosis is an infectious disease that spreads through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white bloom appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can propagate in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• by cuttings.

Dividing the bush

The bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed reproduction

In open ground sowing is done in May... For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut under a leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the stalk sits.
3. The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The rooting temperature should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots... Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

Observing the rules of planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve a beautiful and spectacular flowering during half of summer and almost all of autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.

Bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum is a genus of perennial garden flowers of the Asteraceae family. They come from Asia and North-Eastern Europe. Most of the species come from East Asia, the greatest variety in China, where chrysanthemums were grown from the 5th century BC, to Japan in the 8th century AD, and to England at the end of the 18th century.

Chrysanthemums are herbaceous plants with a stiff stem or shrubs, with erect stems, usually covered with fine pubescence (in some species, glabrous). Leaves are alternate, whole or notched, with a serrated edge. The foliage is green or light green. If you rub the leaves or break a branch, a peculiar smell is felt, sometimes quite tart, a characteristic difference between chrysanthemums and asters.

Inflorescences are baskets of small flowers of two types: central tubular, yellow, marginal flowers are ligulate of the most varied colors. The fruit of the chrysanthemum is achene.

Chrysanthemum classification

In the process of selection, simple inflorescences almost completely replaced the semi-double and double inflorescences, in which the inflorescence of the cap is multi-row reed flowers. But in addition to double and simple inflorescences, there are other forms: anemone, tubular, Chinese, peony, pompom, decorative, arachnid, etc. Often the difference lies in the form of reed flowers - in some varieties they are straight, in others they are slightly bent by a boat, in others slightly spiral.

Most often, perennial frost-resistant chrysanthemums of Korean selection are used for landscaping the garden, as the most unpretentious and frost-resistant, they are often called ‘oak’ - in the shape of leaves resembling oak leaves.

All varieties of chrysanthemums can be divided by flowering time into:

• Early flowering - bloom in late August. These varieties are usually undersized and dense bushes about 25-35 cm tall, used in curbs.
• Medium flowering - bloom in early September, mainly with an average height of 50-60 cm bushes.
• Late flowering - bloom in late September, early October, mostly tall, up to 100 cm or more, require a garter.

Duration of flowering in chrysanthemums is more than a month.Low-growing varieties, as a rule, have very decorative foliage, which makes it possible to form multi-tiered flower beds that bloom from late summer to late autumn.

Place for planting garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums grow best and produce the most flowers when planted in a sunny area. They need at least three hours of full sun a day.

They also require a well-fertilized soil, enough moisture, but no frills. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate dry peaty or sandy soil - poor in mineral composition and does not retain moisture. But they also do not tolerate stagnant water and dampness!

Ideally, they need light sandy loam soil, well filled with humus and organic matter. Like most garden flowers, chrysanthemums are loved on well-drained soils with a lot of organic matter, such as compost.

We do not recommend growing chrysanthemums in the same location for more than three years in a row to avoid associated diseases and pest problems.

Landing

The soil in the flower beds for chrysanthemums must be prepared in advance: if it is heavy, clayey, add sand, humus, peat, you can measure it with buckets, take everything in equal parts. If the soil is light sandy, add loam, sod land and humus. Peat soils require serious improvement - they are poor and acidic, loam or soddy soil and humus must be introduced.

All components introduced to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile soil layer should be less than 40 cm.

If you have a site in a low-lying area or on a slope, before filling the beds at the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of gravel drainage.

Another important indicator of soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can severely limit plant growth, weaken the root system, and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer an acidity of about 6.5, categorically not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower (on saline soil) add ferrous sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

For deoxidizing the soil for chrysanthemums, dolomite limestone is preferred because it contains magnesium and other trace amounts of nutrients. Slaked lime is not desirable - it very quickly gives a reaction to a change in acidity and, when combined with mineral fertilizers, blocks the available phosphorus.

Chrysanthemums obtained from dividing an old bush, container chrysanthemums bought in a nursery, or rooted cuttings, are planted in rows depending on the size of the bushes: at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, low-growing and medium-sized varieties, 45-50 cm - large-growing varieties.

Chrysanthemum care

Caring for chrysanthemums consists in regular watering, feeding, removing faded inflorescences, pruning off excess branches and plucking buds. It is necessary in a timely manner - once every three years to rejuvenate the old bushes.

How to water chrysanthemums

At the beginning of the growing season, chrysanthemums are watered about once a week, abundantly wetting the upper layers of the soil. In summer, as the temperature rises, the frequency of watering increases, it can be once or twice a week, depending on the weather. By the time of flowering in September, watering is even more frequent - at least three times a week, but do not forget that frequent watering is permissible only on well-drained soil!

Top dressing

Chrysanthemums require a rich set of nutrients, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium and magnesium are needed in significant quantities, and small amounts of iron and manganese are also needed, less significant, but it is desirable that they be part of fertilizers for chrysanthemums: boron, copper and zinc.

Nitrogen - This element contributes to the rapid growth of leaves, but is most useful only at the beginning of the growing season, before the formation of inflorescences.Do not use nitrogen fertilizers later than June! If this element is introduced in excess, especially with a lack of light, the plant forms weak stems and a sluggish root system, it is very easy to get sick with powdery mildew and other diseases.

Phosphorus is vital for the health of chrysanthemums, especially for stimulating root growth and maturation of stems, frost resistance of plants and general immunity depend on the sufficiency of phosphorus. If you apply phosphate fertilizers, do not use double superphosphate, only ordinary, it is easier and more evenly distributed in the soil, contains from 18% to 20% of available phosphoric acid.

Potassium promotes the formation of large inflorescences and dense wood of the stems. But if potassium is added in excess, for example, with ash, the chrysanthemum foliage becomes very fragile, the stems are fibrous, do not hold moisture well and stand worse in the cut.

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with a full complex fertilizer, for example, with the NPK 5-10-10 formula, even better with the NPK 5-10-5 formula:

• If chrysanthemums are planted in the current spring, two additional dressings per season are enough.
• If the chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, feed them throughout the summer and in the fall once a month.

Since August, only with phosphorus fertilizer.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and dividing, you can buy chrysanthemums in pots in nurseries. Chrysanthemum seeds are propagated very rarely - grown plants do not retain varietal qualities, you can get completely unexpected shapes, colors and sizes.

If you want a faster flowering, then you need to propagate by dividing. To do this, in the spring at the beginning of the season, when the plants start to grow, use a shovel to separate part of the bush from the periphery of the mother plant and plant it on a prepared flower bed filled with organic matter and complex fertilizer.

Old chrysanthemum bushes can be divided into several parts, leaving only an orderly depleted middle.

Cuttings can be cut with chrysanthemums of any age. When the stem grows about 15-17 cm, cut off the top 10-14 cm, tear off the bottom of the leaves. You can dip the tip of the cutting into the root, although this is not necessary. But it is imperative to sterilize the soil in the pot.

Potting mix options for cuttings:

• coarse river sand and universal peat soil (from the store) in equal parts
• coarse river sand and vermiculite in equal parts
• coarse river sand and sphagnum moss in equal parts

The soil should be sterilized in the oven or steamed in the garden over steam, and then spilled with a phytosporin solution. Immerse the stalk in it with the part where the leaves were removed. You can root the cuttings in large peat tablets.

Keep the soil moderately moist, but not damp. And be sure to be warm - for rooting, you need a temperature of about 22-24 ° C and shading from direct sun.

You can cut chrysanthemums during the summer, but not during the hottest time. The roots form in about two weeks. When you see that the stalk has begun to grow new leaves, everything went well. After the young growth of about 5 cm has grown, young chrysanthemum bushes can be transplanted onto the flower beds by the transfer method: without touching the root ball, remove it from the pot and plant it in the prepared holes.

With any method of propagation, cuttings or cuttings, if very sunny weather, you need to shade for 2-3 days. At the same time, rooted cuttings and young shrubs-delenki should not be dug into the ground in the flowerbed to a depth deeper than they were located at rooting in a pot or in the old place.

The first watering can be carried out with a solution of the zircon preparation.

After planting in a permanent place in the garden, the soil around the chrysanthemums should be mulched to prevent the roots from drying out and create a barrier to weeds. In addition, mulch protects the root system from overheating in the heat, and in winter from hypothermia.

Gradually, the mulch breaks down and forms humic acids, improving the quality of the soil - it becomes loose or crumbly. If you do not mulch the soil, then when planting chrysanthemums bought in containers from the nursery, sprinkle them with soil 1.5-2 cm higher than the pot.

How to plant chrysanthemums in the fall

If you managed to acquire a chrysanthemum stalk or container plant in late summer or autumn, you can plant them in flower beds until mid-September, so that they have time not only to take root in a new place, but also to grow the root mass enough. If you are behind schedule, store the chrysanthemums in containers.

It is necessary to transplant the chrysanthemum into a wide, but low container with universal flower soil from a store pot or glass where the stalk was rooted. Do not trim immediately, just place the container in a moderately cool area. If you have an insulated balcony, you can grow chrysanthemums there until the end of October.

You can cut off the above-ground part when the temperature is about +4 ° С. If subzero temperatures are not expected on your balcony, then you do not need to do anything else, only periodically - once a month or less often water the plants a little, just enough so that the soil does not dry out completely.

If your temperature can drop slightly below zero (the balcony is glazed, but not heated), prepare a large cardboard box and insulation material: sawdust, straw, dried sphagnum moss, or a large cotton blanket.

With a cold snap (below + 3-4 ° C), place a container with chrysanthemum in a box, fill the spaces between the walls with sawdust, or lay batting, foam rubber. Focus on the thermometer readings. Cover with a blanket if necessary, stop watering, and the soil must be dry. Cooling below -2 ° C is unacceptable. Those. the temperature on the balcony can drop below zero (up to minus 5-7 ° С), but in a pot with chrysanthemum it can be kept at least minus 2 ° С.

If you have a warm greenhouse in your garden, then in February-March you can move the flowers there, water as needed - the soil should not be constantly damp or dry out, only moderate moisture.

If there is a lot of planting material in the greenhouse, carry out preventive treatment for diseases - spray all plants with phytosporin or hang iodine pillows (moisten tea bags with 0.5 ml of iodine for each and hang in 2-3 places in the greenhouse). The problem is that chrysanthemums are prone to fungal diseases, and greenhouses are poorly ventilated. Iodine fumes help to decontaminate the air and keep plants healthy until they are planted in flower beds in early May.

You can store chrysanthemums in a cellar or basement in winter, if they are well ventilated, there is no high humidity and fungus on the walls.

Chrysanthemum bush formation

At the beginning of the season, when the stems grow back in the spring, pinch them at a height of about 15-20 cm, about 2-3 cm from the crown. This will force the plant to actively branch, and when the side branches grow another 15 cm, pinch the upper 1.5-2 cm again.This pinching process must be completed 50-60 days before the expected flowering - early flowering can be pinched until July, medium and late flowering - Until August.

The sizes of inflorescences are different for different varieties, large-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 10 to 25 cm, they are grown in 2-3 stems, pinch and leave the largest inflorescences at the ends of the shoots - these are most often offered in a cut for bouquets, usually 1 on one branch -5 inflorescences.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 2-9 cm, they are usually grown in bush form, and the inflorescences are not single baskets, but a complex shield or panicle, on one branch there are 15-20 inflorescences.

Chrysanthemums in winter

At the end of autumn, when the foliage dies off, cut off the entire aerial part of the plants at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

The cold resistance of chrysanthemums is different for different varieties, there are very frost-resistant ones, there are those that freeze out in central Russia and Siberia.If you buy seeds in a store or container seeds in a nursery, check the conformity of the variety to the climatic zone (from 3 to 9 can be specified).

In any case, you need to prepare for the harsh winters, cover the bushes in late autumn with a high layer of mulch made from straw, sawdust, fallen leaves or spruce branches. If the root zone of old bushes has risen strongly from the initial level, first you need to mulch with peat, then straw, and then spruce branches.

If the place on your site is rather low, then prepare drainage grooves near the flower beds before sheltering - a serious danger for chrysanthemums in winter is constant moisture or ice on the leaves, as well as alternating freezing and thawing of the soil. Therefore, if multilayer shelters are used, they must be removed in time in the spring - most often chrysanthemums die due to damping out under excessively warm shelters.

Some gardeners, in order not to lose valuable varieties of chrysanthemums, before sheltering for the winter at the end of September, separate part of the bush and store it in a container until spring.

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