Hydrangea garden planting and outdoor care in winter

Hydrangea is a beautiful garden flower with fluffy multi-colored caps.They are represented by several types: by the type of shrubs up to 3 m high, small trees and vines, which can braid a tree up to 30 m in height. The hydrangea will bloom from spring to frost, delighting with its globular inflorescences. However, there are species for which this time is shorter.

Hydrangea planting rules

You can plant a hydrangea in early spring or fall. In this case, the first option will be preferable. For hydrangeas, you need to choose the right planting site. She prefers acidic soil with good moisture. With regard to lighting, these flowers can feel comfortable both in the sun and in partial shade.

The whole planting process can be divided into several stages:

1. It is necessary to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. If the hydrangea bushes or outgrowths are small, you can make the hydrangea slightly smaller.
2. Now you need to prepare a soil mixture consisting of fertile soil, humus and peat. It is advisable to add 50 g of mineral fertilizer to it. If possible, such a mixture is left in the pit for 15 to 30 days. If the soil at the planting site is rich and fertile, then the plant can be planted directly into it without prior preparation.
3. The prepared seedling must be placed in the center of the planting pit so that its root collar is not deeply buried. Around the plant, you should carefully cover it with soil and tamp it so that the roots are well pressed and there is no void around them.
4. The planted bush should be watered abundantly. It is advisable to additionally sprinkle the soil on top with sawdust, bark or peat.

After planting a hydrangea bush, it is better to cover it from sunlight for a few days. This will allow the plant to take root faster. Hydrangea can be planted both singly and in groups. In this case, the distance between the bushes should be about 1 meter.

Basic rules for caring for hydrangea

Hydrangea care comes down primarily to proper watering, timely feeding, pruning and loosening. If you do everything right, the bushes will be lush, and the inflorescences will be large and bright.

Watering

Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant that requires frequent watering. It should be plentiful, 15 - 20 liters for each adult bush. In hot weather, this should be done once a week. In hot and dry summers, watering can be increased up to twice a week. In this case, you need to focus on the condition of the soil, given how quickly it absorbs moisture and dries out.

For watering, it is best to use settled soft water at room temperature. Periodically, you need to add a little potassium permanganate to it, which will prevent the appearance of rot. Water the hydrangea in the morning or evening, when it is not too hot.

Top dressing

For good development and lush flowering, hydrangea needs to be fed. For this, both organic and mineral fertilizers are suitable. Their use is especially important during periods of intensive growth. You can buy ready-made fertilizers that are rich in magnesium and iron. Feeding in the form of a solution of poultry droppings with water in a ratio of 1:10 in combination with a mineral composition of 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of nitrate and 10 g of urea has a good composition. You can use any slurry as a fertilizer, just observe the measure, otherwise the buds will be too large, which can cause fragile branches to break.

It is necessary to fertilize hydrangea not only during planting, but periodically as it grows. The first such feeding should be done at the end of May. It should be repeated after two weeks. You can fertilize flowers throughout the summer, but in August it is advisable to stop feeding so that the shoots can become woody for winter.

Mulching

Thanks to the mulching of the trunk circle, the roots of the hydrangea will be protected from overheating and rapid growth of weeds. You must first make an organic mulch, consisting of wood chips or peat. It should be scattered evenly around the bush.This will help make the soil more acidic, which is what hydrangeas need. This mulch will gradually become part of the soil.

It is best to apply mulch under the bushes in late spring, when the soil is well warmed up. Mulching is also possible in late autumn, when temperatures are below zero. Periodically, the shrubs need to be loosened so that the soil is more moisture-permeable.

Pruning

Pruning is done on plants that are 3 to 4 years old. This should be done in early spring - before sap flow and budding begin. If carried out too early, the cuttings will not be suitable for further rooting, and if it is too late, the plant may die. This is why it is important to prune when the buds are just starting to swell.

When pruning in mature plants, cut 3/4 of the height of each shoot with a pruning shear. In this case, 2 - 3 pairs of kidneys should remain on them. Old bushes can be renewed at the root. Everything will depend on the condition of the bush or tree. You need to cut off old or frozen shoots. During pruning, you can form a beautiful small tree with a certain shape. In the first year of the hydrangea's growth, its flowers should be removed. this will encourage more abundant flowering next year.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Hydrangea belongs to heat-loving plants, so it must be protected in the winter season. Young shoots and insufficiently winter-hardy varieties need special protection. If the bush is very young, you can simply cover it from above with earth, fallen leaves or sawdust. Older plants must be bent to the ground and covered with roofing material or lutrasil. To prevent the wind from blowing it away, you need to press down the covering material with bricks.

Mature bushes require more cover. We must try not to break them. The bush should be tied up, and then covered with spunbond or lutrasil, after which a frame of metal mesh or other materials at hand can be built around it. It should be about 20-25 cm away from the bush. The free space must be filled with dry foliage. Such an insulated frame will protect the hydrangea well even in severe frosts. You can remove it in the spring, when there is a stable above-zero temperature.

Propagation of hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

1. Cuttings. Reproduction in this way is best done in mid-spring or early summer. One-year lateral shoots must be used as blanks. They should be about 10-12 cm long. Cuttings should be cut at right angles. From the bottom they need to remove the leaves. To root cuttings, you need to prepare the soil. For this, a light substrate is used, consisting of fertile soil, peat and sand. You need to plant cuttings in it, placing them at an angle. Each individual plant should be 5 cm apart. It will take about a month to root the shoots.
2. By dividing the bush. It can be propagated both in spring and autumn. To do this, the plant must be dug up and divided into several parts so that each individual bush has a bud of renewal. After that, the plant is simply planted in the prepared places.
3. Layers. For the propagation of hydrangeas by layering, you need to select young shoots, which will not be more than a year old. They should be bent to the ground and dug in so that a small top of 20 cm remains on top. The next year, the shoot will take root and it can be separated from the main bush and planted in another place.
4. Seeds. This is a rather troublesome process, so this breeding method is rarely used. The seeds need to be grown at home. To do this, they are planted in pots and only lightly sprinkled with sand. They need to be watered and fertilized frequently as they grow.

Popular types of hydrangea

Before planting a hydrangea, you need to decide on the choice of a suitable type.Each of them has its own growing characteristics, which must be taken into account when planting and caring for. The most popular among gardeners: Large-leaved hydrangea, Paniculata hydrangea, Stalked hydrangea, Treelike hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

It will delight with flowering in July-August. This hydrangea has bright, dense foliage. The shoots of the current year look herbaceous, which is why the plant has a low cold resistance. The flowers are umbrella-shaped. They can have different colors depending on the variety, the intensity of which depends on the acidity of the soil. The more acidic it is, the brighter the hydrangea will be. The height of the bush reaches 2 m.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)

Blooms from mid-summer until the onset of cold weather. Inflorescences of this type have a pyramidal shape. They can reach a length of up to 30 cm. Panicle hydrangea grows in the form of a shrub, which can reach a height of 5 m or in the form of a small tree up to 10 m. This species is considered more frost-resistant and unpretentious.

Stalked hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris)

It is a shrub vine. It will require an additional support to which it will be attached with air suction cups. In length, it grows up to 25 m. This is a suitable species for planting near arches and arbors. Inflorescences have a corymbose shape up to 25 cm in size.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)

It grows up to 3 meters in height. The flowers are predominantly white or cream in color. There are several varieties of this species, differing in different colors. In winter, the plant can freeze slightly, so it must be carefully wrapped. In April, the bushes need to be heavily pruned. The flowers grow in large fluffy inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea (Hydrangea heteromalla)

It is also called the Bretschneider hydrangea. This species is considered hardy and unpretentious. The bush reaches 2 - 3 m in height. The inflorescences are corymbose. At first they are white, and at the end of flowering they turn pink. Such a hydrangea blooms in the middle of summer.

Recommendations for planting and caring for hydrangea in the garden - video

Many people want to have a beautiful large-leaved hydrangea in their garden. This spectacular shrub seems whimsical in cultivation in vain.

The rules for caring for broadleaf hydrangea are somewhat different from other species. By following certain agronomic techniques, you can avoid the frustration of losing your favorite plant.

What are the technologies for growing hydrangea and how not to be mistaken with the choice of a variety?

Appearance and features

The homeland of the perennial plant is East Asia: Japan and China. Other names among professionals are hydrangea and macrophile. Hydrangea broadleaf is also called garden hydrangea.

The height of shrub forms ranges from 0.4 to 1.5 meters. Stems are erect, not fruiting. Wide large leaves, inflorescences (15-25 centimeters in diameter) of all kinds of colors - this is the appearance of a hydrangea. Bloom is observed from July to September-October.

The large-leaved beauty gives flowers on the shoots of last year, woody only in spring, this explains the freezing during wintering. Flower buds are laid in the fall and often die in the cold. Old tree stems may also not survive the cold, so it is important to carefully cover the thermophilic plant.

It grows on different soils, changing the color of flowers from white, pink to dark red and blue. To change the color, they resort to various tricks: they are watered with special dyes, alum and vitriol, rusty nails are buried under the bush, and peat is introduced.

What varieties are available

In central Russia, mainly winter-hardy species of garden hydrangia are grown. Several dozen varieties have taken root remarkably.

Of greater interest are remontant varieties blooming both on last year's and fresh shoots.Thanks to the selection of these varieties, the large-leaved hydrangea has received a new life.

Nikko Blue

Shrub height up to 1.5 meters. The colors of this variety are different (depending on the acidity of the soil) - from white to intensely lilac. Can be grown at home. The variety originates from the broadleaf species Endless Summer. Nikko Blue develops rapidly, expanding, releases young shoots every year.

The inflorescences are attractive, large, up to 30 centimeters in diameter. Repairability is that the flowers bloom on the stems that have overwintered and current. The blooming ball appears to be light, weightless. The weak acidity of the soil will allow a constant blue color, and for the intensity of the color, aluminum sulfate in a dissolved form should be applied under the bush.

Sweet Fantasy

The erect bush is strewn with oval leaves and large spherical inflorescences (up to 25 centimeters in coverage). The flowers are pink interspersed with burgundy. Refers to a changeable species, the variety is capable of changing color. Blooms in July and August. Requires shelter, very thermophilic variety, does not like alkaline soils.

Tivoli

The shrub on the street grows up to 1.8 meters in height. The burgundy flower, framed by a white color, has a coverage of 20 centimeters. Loves acidic soils, changes color, under specially created conditions. Lover of partial shade and southern parts of the garden.

Variegata

A low-growing (up to 1 meter) shrub of this variety has white flowers. The leaves are interestingly colored: green with white edging. The acidity of the soil should be reduced, does not like liming. Looks great in group compositions.

Alpengluchen

Red, dense pink color of flowers. The bush is 100-125 centimeters. Decorativeness increases on acidic soil. It blooms in early to mid-summer.

Red baron

Shoots of this variety grow up to one and a half meters in height. Bright red flowers are collected in globular inflorescences. Bloom - July and August.

Bodensee

An expensive variety of large-leaved hydrangea. Inflorescences (25-30 centimeters) consist of small lace flowers in the center, becoming larger at the edge. The repair plant blooms for a long time: first on last year's shoots, then on young ones. The shrub needs support because of its height (1.5 meters) and to support the peduncles.

Endless summer

Flowers on this plant bloom, both on old, lignified shoots, and on the stems of the current year. Initially, they have a blue color, they also come in white.

Magic Sunfields

Spherical large inflorescences have an original color: red with green. The height of the shrub is 1.5 meters.

Expression

Winter-resistant, continuous flowering variety (on old and new shoots). Double flowers look like water lilies. The colors are pink, blue, purple, changing from the reaction of the soil environment. The bush is 1 meter high and about the same in coverage. At the beginning of flowering, there is a creamy yellowish color in the center, this gives the effect of two colors.

Ever Peppermint

Low (up to 60 centimeters) remontant bush. Double color: white border on the edge, and inside - blue, pink or lilac color.

Red sensation

The "Red Sensation" is a hydrangea that blooms continuously (twice). First on last year's stem, then on a fresh shoot. Height 70-80 centimeters, the same width. The color is always red, only changing the intensity. Sun in the morning, partial shade in the afternoon: ideal conditions for this variety.

You & Me Forever

Bicolor, twice-blooming macrophile. The bush reaches 80 centimeters in height, the width exceeds this size. The color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the earth, and changes from blue to pink.

Agrotechnics of large-flowered hydrangea

This type of hydrangia is the most whimsical, it is thermophilic. Therefore, all varieties, both remontant and ordinary, require shelter for the winter. It is not difficult to grow a hydrangea bush on your site by performing sequential activities.

Correct planting, soil preparation

The plant is planted singly or in groups.In the second case, the distance between the seedlings is at least 1 meter. Macrophila prefers acidic, drained soils. Grows well in sunny areas with shade in the middle of the day.

Planting is carried out in early spring so that good roots appear over the summer, or in autumn. Dig a hole 30 by 30 centimeters in size (and a depth of 30 cm), add humus, sand and peat. Plant the hydrangea and water thoroughly. Finish the work by mulching the near-stem part with a mixture of peat and fertile soil.

Important! The root collar is not buried, leaving it at ground level. The roots can be trimmed a little. Annual shoots are also shortened when planting (by 3 buds).

Watering and feeding

Do not allow the plant to dry out, the formation of a crust under it. Water regularly, while feeding the bush.

In the spring, special fertilizers containing nitrogen and trace elements are applied under the hydrangea, which also contribute to the color change of the flower. Moderate acidification of the soil is carried out if a blue color is needed, and alkalization is necessary to obtain a pink tint.

In summer, fertilize with phosphorus and potassium mixtures, strengthening the plant for winter.

Pruning

Young plantings are not subjected to formative pruning for three years. They only get rid of dried-up branches. Their presence is determined by scraping a small area with a fingernail - the green color indicates that the stem is not dead, and the brown one is dry.

Large-leaved varieties need very careful pruning. In order not to harm the buds that form in the fall, lignified stems should not be greatly shortened in the spring (spring pruning in adult bushes is carried out by reducing the ends of the shoots by 1-2 buds).

Macrophile pruning is carried out to rejuvenate, stimulate growth and shape the bush. In summer, during flowering, a third of the non-flowering stems can be removed, up to 20 centimeters above the ground (leaving the lower bud). They will bloom next year.

Shelter for the winter

• Before the onset of frost (until November), the center of the bush is covered with peat or hilled;
• Bend the branches neatly to the ground, without pruning, and the leaves must be removed so that they do not rot;
• If a break is obtained, then put a wooden box or log under the branches;
• Cover everything with spunbond or other non-woven covering material;
• Pour enough fallen leaves and light grass on top;
• Finish the "construction" with a film or roofing felt, giving stability, so as not to be blown away by snowstorms.

In the spring, the entire shelter is dismantled gradually, completely getting rid of it when the frost passes.

How to propagate

The breeding methods are as follows:

1. We divide the bush. In spring or autumn, the plant is dug up, divided into parts (so that buds remain on each). Long roots can be shortened. They are seated in prepared holes.
2. Rooting with bent layering. At the very beginning of May, bend a flexible twig (several), securing it in a nearby groove. Tear off the leaves, scrape off the bark and sprinkle with earth. Water during the summer, check. By the fall, a layering root system will develop, and it will be possible to cut the stem from the mother bush. The next spring, this new bush is planted.
3. Propagated by cuttings. At the beginning of summer, several cuttings are cut from annual shoots, 10 centimeters long. Make a slice downward in height. Cut the upper leaves on the petiole to the middle, remove the lower ones. Stimulate the workpieces in a special solution and plant them in the ground in a greenhouse or pot. After a month, the roots will grow back, they need to be transplanted into separate pots, and for the winter they should be dug in the garden right in the pot. You can leave at home until spring.

The hydrangea plant belongs to the Hortensia family. It grows in the form of a liana or a compact tree. Hydrangea is widespread in Europe, Asia, China. The most popular type is garden hydrangea. It is a shrub that grows up to 2 m in height. Some summer residents prefer to grow vines.Hydrangea includes evergreen and deciduous species. In the conditions of central Russia, deciduous are cultivated.

1 Botanical description

The leaves of the plant are large, oval in shape. Garden culture blooms before the onset of frost. In spring, it forms flowers, the shade of which depends on the acidity of the soil. If the soil is neutral, the plant produces beige inflorescences. Lilac or pink flowers grow on alkaline soil. The acidic soil is saturated with aluminum, therefore it is unsuitable for growing hydrangeas. Horticultural crops form fruits - small boxes with seeds.

In Central Russia, the following types of hydrangeas are cultivated:

• garden;
• ground cover;
• tree-like;
• oak-leaved;
• serrated.

The botanical description indicates that hydrangea has low winter hardiness. It is necessary to cover it for the winter.

Periwinkle: planting and care in the open field, plant types

1.1 Most popular varieties

Panicle hydrangea Phantom: planting and care in the open field

2 Rules for growing hydrangea

This culture loves moisture. If she does not have enough water, flowering is disturbed. Insufficient watering can lead to the death of the plant.

Hydrangea places high demands on the quality of lighting. It is recommended to place it in partial shade. The plant reacts well to sunlight, but aggressive sunlight should not be allowed to burn out delicate petals. In order for the bush to grow well, you need to cut it off and add organic matter.

If you fertilize a crop abundantly, it will grow strongly, as a result flowering will be disrupted. Garden culture needs to be covered for the winter. She does not tolerate frost. Frozen hydrangea is restored during the growing season. The advantage of culture is that it is resistant to diseases and pests. It can be safely planted in the south of Russia and the Moscow region.

Brunner: types, varieties, planting and care in the open field

3 How is boarding carried out?

Seed propagation is practiced by breeders. It allows you to breed unique varieties. Growing hydrangeas from seeds is a painstaking process, summer residents choose the seedling method.

Sowing of seeds is carried out in the middle of autumn. They are placed in loose soil. For hydrangea, a substrate consisting of 4 parts of leafy soil, 2 parts of peat and 1 part of sand is ideal. The seeds are buried in small holes, covered with soil and water is added from a spray bottle. It is recommended to keep them under a transparent film. It must be removed periodically, so the seed will be saturated with oxygen.

The flower develops favorably at temperatures from + 16 to +19 degrees. Seedlings appear 30 days after planting. At this time, the covering material is removed. The pick is carried out 2 times. The plant is transplanted when it forms several cotyledonous leaves. The second pick is carried out in May. The flower is placed in a 6-8 cm pot.

It is recommended to harden the plant, that is, to take it out into fresh air. Garden culture does not tolerate drafts - it is important to take this feature into account. In the evening, the seedlings must be brought back into the room.

During this period of time, the formed buds should be removed. If this is not done, flowering will be disrupted. Home-grown seedlings are planted in the ground after 2 years. The flower takes root in a neutral or slightly acidic soil. For acidification of the soil, use "Asid plus". Before planting a flower, weeds must be removed from the site. The plant is placed at a distance of 2.5 m from other crops.

If you do not keep this distance, plants will take away moisture and nutrients. The trench should be 2 times the size of the earthen coma. The soil can be mixed with peat and enriched with organic matter. The seedling is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned. The root ball should be 1.5 cm above the ground.After planting, mulching is performed; for this, bark is used.

4 Pruning plants, propagation by cuttings

Hydrangea care must be correct. The plant is pruned when it is three years old. Species blooming on last year's shoots are corrected in early spring, before bud break. Pruning must be done before sap flow, otherwise the plant will die. Adjustments should not be made too early.

Large-leaved crops need a rejuvenating haircut. Every fourth shoot should be removed annually. It is also necessary to remove dry leaves and branches.

To propagate a hydrangea by cuttings, you need to cut off the shoots. Pieces with 2-3 knots are obtained from them. The cuttings are planted in a container filled with a peat-sand mixture, deepened by 3 cm. After planting, water is added from a spray bottle. The soil with cuttings should be moist. When the planting material takes root, it will need to be planted in open ground.

Royal hydrangeas march across Russia, striking lovers of beauty with their grandeur and beauty. When you see them in your head, the question immediately arises, is it possible to admire the unearthly beauty of flowers in our rather cold country. After all, she needs to create some special conditions. Yes, hydrangea care in the fall, preparing for winter requires a little effort, but it grows and blooms magnificently in Russia, it takes your breath away from such beauty.

Hydrangea paniculata

Lilacs cannot boast of such a rich flowering. Hydrangea paniculata queen of flowering shrubs. Originally from the east, it is found in the wild in Russia, in the south of Sakhalin, in China and Japan, belongs to the saxifrage family.

The shrub grows well in partial shade, but the full beauty of its flowering can only be shown in a sunny place. In one place he feels good for 10, or even more years. Growing into a huge ball, all covered with pyramidal inflorescences. Such beauty cannot be described, one must see.

In Russia, it is usually a bush 2 meter high, thin flexible shoots form something in the form of a ball. The leaves are large, opposite, simple, the flowers are collected in paniculate inflorescences reaching 32 cm in height, 18-21 cm in width. During the flowering period, the flowers change the color of the inflorescences from white-green to pink several times.

The bush does not like calcareous soil, does not tolerate the proximity of groundwater, a prerequisite for planting a plant, a drainage device, stagnant water, does not like a shrub. You need to pour nutrient soil and sand under the bush.

That's better! It is best to propagate panicle hydrangea by cuttings, although some gardeners practice planting seeds, their germination rate is low, for which the purity of the variety is guaranteed. The seedlings grown from seeds will begin to bloom in the fourth year.

Saplings grown from cuttings in the first year of life should not be planted in the ground, keep them in pots. Young shoots have not yet adapted to climatic conditions, their percentage of winter hardiness is so low that when they are planted in the soil, you will simply lose them, freeze out.

In the second year, you can take a chance and plant the juveniles in the ground, but you need a good cover with spruce branches or dry leaves and covering material. After you remove the shelter from them in the spring, trim the shoots, leaving only 6-8 buds. In summer, flowering shoots will form on them.

So you have grown a full-fledged bush, now the frosts are not terrible. You will also have to take care of lush flowering, breaking out last year's thin shoots, cutting off strong ones and leaving 5-8 buds.

There is no time to rest in the summer, the second cleaning up of the bush is coming, remove thin shoots, there is no sense, and nutrients are consumed. Before flowering, it is necessary to save a little energy for the plant. It remains to wait for flowering. When the bush blooms, it is impossible to pass by such beauty, it takes your breath away with admiration.

Hydrangea "Anabel"

Incomparable! Favorite Dutch hydrangea variety "Anabel" is associated with a flock of girls at the prom dressed up in pastel-colored dresses.Their outfits are airy and sewn from fabrics of such delicate tones that looking at them, you forget about everything. Hydrangea is in bloom all summer long.

The hydrangea in bloom looks exquisite. The stems with caps of flowers fall on the ground from the weight. If you do not tie it up, then all the beauty will be on the ground. This variety is generally very responsive to taking care of it. Feed the bush, you will see how many large flowers open up in it.

Experimental flower growers have learned to change the color of flowers with the help of dyes. One bush can be painted in several shades, although the varietal color is pure white.

In "Annabelle" the leaf has the shape of an elongated circle, light green on the outside, the inside of the leaf is dull gray. Easily propagated by cuttings, which can bloom already in the first year of life. They are not afraid of frost, only in Siberia and the Urals should they still be covered with spruce branches. It can be grown throughout Russia.

Hydrangea

The Hayes Starburst variety of tree hydrangea is famous for its double inflorescences. The average bush is 1.5 meters in height, with spherical inflorescences reaching up to 27 cm and having terry caps of flowers, blooms from early summer sometimes to mid-autumn. The best place for planting this variety is a sunny meadow, although she likes light partial shade more.

Need to remember! It reveals well its decorative qualities on rich, acidified, loose soil. Does not tolerate calcareous soil. Grows well in central Russia, can winter without shelter. In the Urals and Siberia, it periodically freezes, but often recovers itself. The variety is not suitable for these regions.

Large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangea is the most unpretentious shrub. A large number of varieties, the variety is not very picky about care, it is almost not affected by pests and diseases. Blooms from early August, of course late. But it looks majestic against the background of already beginning to change the color of the leaves of neighboring shrubs, delighting the owners with a chic hat of multi-colored inflorescences.

For more than one century, hydrangea has lived in the gardens of Russia, interest in it then fades, then flares up. Wherever you plant a bush, it is always the first to draw attention to itself. You can grow hydrangeas in a small front garden and in a modern garden. They grow them in containers on windowsills and everywhere this bush is appropriate.

Hydrangea preparing for winter

Florists are worried about the question, is it necessary to cover the hydrangea for the winter? If you like these beauties, then, yes.

Varieties of panicle hydrangea can do without shelter, as they quickly restore frostbitten lashes and bloom in the same summer. This variety does not need to be covered, the main thing is to protect the bush from the wind with shields. Of course, this is also a shelter, but not as thorough.

Create conditions! Large-leaved hydrangea, that is still a sissy, for her frost is -10˚С; is already destructive, her flower buds are located on two-year-old stems, when it freezes, it can forever lose the ability to bloom, there are many such examples.

The flower markets sell varieties of large-leaved beauty. These are mainly guests from Holland, the climate of central Russia is not to your taste. They grow well in the south, in a lacy shade, direct sunlight is contraindicated for sissies.

In the middle lane, they need to be dug up for the winter, transplanted into pots and lowered into a cellar, where the temperature is constant about 0˚C, just what these cutesy beauties love.

It's time to get ready for winter, you need to start from the middle of summer:

1. In late July or early August, feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
2. Start reducing watering in September, in the event of a rainy autumn, make the plant a wigwam, it is undesirable in winter a lot of water for the roots, they can freeze out.
3. Here is the pruning of hydrangeas in the fall, a controversial question, who cuts and who leaves this procedure for the spring, it is better to consult with experienced growers in your region.

Cover with spruce branches, then agrotex on top, plastic wrap is not suitable, in a warm winter, the shoots can vanish.Try an air-dry shelter.

You will need to make a frame over the bush, first bend the shoots. Attach shelter sticks between the branches, cover with dry leaves and cover with a breathable film on top, just business. The bush will thank you in the spring.

Be patient! For indoor growing of capricious beauties, special varieties have been bred that belong to the family of large-leaved hydrangeas. They need to take rest time by placing them in a cool room.

Winter care at home

In the middle of winter, bring the seedlings into a warm place and place them in the light, do not forget to water. For some reason, indoor varieties do not like high temperatures, they feel comfortable at + 18˚С. Direct sunlight does not like hydrangeas, in spring or even in February, the sun begins to blind your eyes, at this time darken the plants if they are constantly on the windowsill. Hydrangea loves water, it requires regular watering and spraying every day, if there is dry air in the room, then more often.

The soil should be nutritious, acidic, hydrangeas need a pH of at least 5.5 and consist of coniferous soil, humus, peat and sand are added in small quantities.

You need to feed it regularly, once a week, in summer for abundant flowering, and in winter to restore the strength of the plant. For this, a complex fertilizer is used, I take 2 gr. per liter, this is quite enough for 3-4 pots of flowers.

Hydrangea propagates by cuttings, they are planted in wet sand, a special substrate for hydrangeas, you can simply in water. Cover the seedlings until the roots appear, at a size of 3-X cm, they are placed in the soil. It is necessary to open it gradually, otherwise you will ruin the seedlings.

Gratitude! Indoor hydrangeas bloom from April to late autumn. Their inflorescences look like open umbrellas, pink, white or blue and have a diameter of more than 20 cm. 5-6 inflorescences can bloom on one bush. The flower is transplanted every 3 years, increasing the planter or pot by 1.5 times.

Diseases and pests of hydrangeas

Like all plants, hydrangeas are sick and damaged by pests:

1. The tips of the leaves dry out and spoil the appearance of the plant - the air in the room is dry, the plant is not sprayed or watered insufficiently.
2. Yellow leaves - little acidity of the soil, pour the plant with a weak solution of citric acid, or better, dilute it in 100 grams. water a spoonful of lemon juice and pour.
3. The flower grows slowly - the reason is a lack of nutrition, you need to feed it regularly, minerals and organics are required.
4. Brown spots appeared on the leaves - insufficient watering, increase the water rate and spray 2 times a day.
5. White spots on the leaves - protect the hydrangea from direct sunlight, you were warned that it does not tolerate them well.
6. Bronze of leaves, virus, leaves are discolored in places, there are small holes, they began to wrinkle, and become coarse - these are thrips, carriers of infection, need to be destroyed.
7. Phyloxictosis - round brown spots on the leaves, torn edges are formed, dry the leaves and treat the plant with copper preparations.
8. Powdery mildew - spray affected plants, in case of severe infection, preparations: Strobi, Topaz, Skor, Purest flowers. With a slight lesion, fungicides, Alipirin-B, Fitosporin-M are suitable.

These are viruses, but besides them, there are also pests of hydrangeas such as aphids, bedbugs, shitovki, false shitovki, spider mites and mites of various claws.

Winter preparation and care in the Urals

It's time to get ready! You are, of course, aware that in the Urals and Siberia, the thermometer in winter drops below -40˚C, and even with the wind. Here, not every type of hydrangea survives, a large-leaved species sometimes survives, but you will not wait for flowering, you can try to grow it as an indoor flower or a pot plant, you should not plant it in the soil.

The market sells beauties, hydrangeas, already in bloom, how many naive buyers bought this beauty.
Large-leaved, snow-white with huge caps of flowers, and when transplanted into the soil, they bloomed all summer, causing the delight of the owners and neighbors, but next year, feed, water, there is no sense, they do not bloom.

Paniculate and tree-like varieties of hydrangeas are suitable for the region. Subject to all agrotechnical conditions and with valuable advice from old-timers, they grow and bloom beautifully in the Urals. Although sometimes they start to be capricious. But such beauties and whims can be forgiven.

When buying a seedling, make sure that the roots are not dry, the bush does not tolerate drying out of the roots. Do not buy this, it will hurt for a long time or even die. Before planting in the ground, it must be enriched, the plant needs rich soil, abundant flowering requires a lot of nutrition.

After transplanting into the soil, be very responsible for watering, hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant. Watering is vital for her. Lack of moisture during the growing season leads to freezing of the shrub. In the Urals, hydrangea is covered with coniferous litter for the winter or leaves are shoveled onto a bush 15 centimeters thick.

Offers! For abundant flowering, cut thin lashes, shorten powerful ones, in tall bushes up to 20-30 cm.Leave 10 cm undersized. A perennial bush should be rejuvenated by cutting off branches flush with the ground, let the young grow back.

The forum has advice from old gardeners that in this region it is not worth pruning the hydrangea before wintering, you can do it in the spring.

It is necessary to start preparing the plant for winter in early September. If it rains frequently at this time, then cover the roots of the bush with plastic or make a hut above it. He no longer needs a lot of water, oddly enough it sounds, excess moisture leads to freezing, do not forget about severe frosts in your region. The less water penetrates to the roots, the easier it will be for him to winter.

Covering the plant with a hut, you will accelerate its leaf fall, and with a stable cold snap, also manually pick off the remaining inflorescences and leaves. Do not forget to huddle the bush in front of the shelter. Long shoots will need to be placed on wooden pallets or trellises. Pin with hairpins and cover with a thick layer of spruce branches. This is a shelter for mature plants.

It is better to sprinkle young bushes with earth, cover them with coniferous branches and cover them with agrotex from above. Pay attention, the hydrangea suffers already at -5˚С, so it must be covered before the rose, and it must be opened gradually by opening the layers of the shelter as the temperature rises.

A little attention! Saw that buds have appeared, lift the lashes of the bush and tie them to the support, this is a precaution. Well, curved branches do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Hydrangea planting in pots

A neighbor gardener, no matter how hard he fought, could not wait for beautiful flowers from a large-leaved hydrangea. She turned out to be capricious, it will freeze, then the shoots will mate, well, the Ural climate is not suitable for her.

So he decided to grow it as a pot culture, and what, his greenhouse heats up in winter, his chrysanthemums are large, chic, just all the neighbors were envious.

It will not be difficult to propagate a hydrangea. The main thing is to do everything on time. In July, you need to cut green cuttings from a seedling purchased this year and plant in an acidic substrate or peat tablets purchased at a flower shop. Green cuttings take root quickly. When planting in July, you will admire the lush caps of flowers next year.

Plant the rooted seedlings in pots, and while it is warm, take it outside, let them get used to it. In the fall, attach flower pots to a greenhouse or cellar, the main thing is that no matter what the temperature drops below -3 ° C, it is too capricious, large-leaved hydrangea.

We'll have to work hard! While the bushes are small, it is not so difficult to move them, but the adults already growing in 10 liter pots are heavy.

Adult hydrangeas can be kept outside until the first small frosts, -3˚- 5˚С. After frost, the foliage on the plants dries up and falls off, which means it's time to attach the beauties for the winter.At a slight subzero temperature, they retain all the shoots, and in the summer you will admire their blooming beauties. The main thing is to let the plant bloom, go through the entire natural cycle, during flowering, the color of the bouquets changes, this is a fascinating sight.

Take note of a few tips, you may need them:

1. It is necessary to plant hydrangea in the ground in late spring, at this time they take root well in a new place and hardly get sick.
2. Your site has alkaline soil, which means that the place where the shrub grows needs to be acidified from time to time. For this, horse peat, acidifier "Asid plus" and "Kerima-wagon" are suitable.
3. Hydrangeas have shallow roots and therefore do not plant them next to plants with the same root system, otherwise there will be an eternal war for nutrients and moisture. And they will not have the strength to bloom.

Luxurious hydrangea inflorescences do not leave anyone indifferent, a small bush blooms with such a violent color that it even takes a daze, just one bush, and how prettier the site is. Care in the fall and preparation for the winter of hydrangeas does not discourage the desire to have such beauty on the site.

Hydrangea is one of the most remarkable plants in the garden.

Its unusual shape of inflorescences emphasize the sophistication and originality of the design.

However, when growing hydrangea, do not forget that the shrub is native to Asia, which means it belongs to thermophilic crops.

Proper care of your hydrangea in the fall is extremely important.

Highlights of Autumn Hydrangea Care

Taking care of your hydrangea is not that difficult. All procedures have long been familiar to the gardener, but it is imperative to adhere to an integrated approach when preparing hydrangeas for winter.

Winter watering: what is it for

Hydrangea is one of those plants that are demanding on moisture at all stages of development. Late fall watering should be done before expected frosts. This will allow the shrubs to accumulate enough moisture for a long winter. If the fall is particularly rainy, then watering can be skipped.

Fertilization

For the full development of flower buds, the shrub needs enough nutrients, which need to be replenished in the fall. Hydrangea care includes additional fertilizing with mineral complexes. During this period, only nitrogen fertilizers become an exception, the use of which is unjustified, such dressings can harm the plant, reduce its winter hardiness. But the presence of phosphorus and potassium in nutritional mixes is very helpful. These elements help hydrangeas to recover from extended flowering.

Professional pruning of hydrangeas in the fall

Autumn care for hydrangea includes competent pruning. Among gardeners, there is an opinion that in the fall it is necessary to carry out radical pruning of the shrub, for

lush bloom

next summer. But it is not so. This pruning method is used for tree and panicle hydrangeas. But the large-leaved hydrangea is not cut off. This is due to the peculiarity of its flowering. The buds are laid on last year's shoots, so they should overwinter successfully. All other types of shrubs give color on annual shoots, so they must be pruned.

Based on this knowledge, autumn shrub pruning is divided into two types:

Cosmetic, which is used for plants flowering on last year's shoots;

Radical, it is used for varieties of hydrangeas that bloom on annual shoots.

There should be no problems with cosmetic pruning of the shrub. When it is carried out, only damaged shoots, branches thickening the bush, sick and weak are removed.

How to radically prune hydrangeas in the fall

Many gardeners believe that pruning shrubs should be done in the spring, but this is not the case with mature plants.

The fact is that the tree hydrangea can drain and die. Autumn pruning does not produce such results.Those shrubs that are more than 4 years old must be rejuvenated.

For this, all shoots are removed as close to the ground as possible, leaving only up to 5-10 cm from the surface. More mature shrubs rejuvenate gradually, removing shoots gradually over several years.

Properly carried out autumn pruning will not harm the plant in any way, but on the contrary will help to get a healthy flowering bush next year.

In tree hydrangea, only old powerful shoots are removed, and in paniculata, weak, healthy annual growths can be shortened by 5 buds.

Preparing hydrangeas for wintering: is it necessary to cover the shrub?

In addition to all the activities for caring for hydrangeas in the fall, sheltering a bush is important. Why? This is due to the origin of the plant. In the southern regions with a mild climate, at the stage of preparation for winter, it is enough to huddle and mulch the hydrangea. But in a harsh climate, such measures will not save the plant.

How to care for hydrangea in autumn in the northern regions

If winters are unpredictable, then it is worth taking care of

bush shelter for the winter ... This can be done in several ways.

1. Young shrubs can be completely covered with mulching material, additionally covered with a film. This method will preserve the plant until spring, after which the shelter must be removed in time so that the hydrangea does not snatch.

2. Also young hydrangeas can be covered differently. All shoots are tied and bent to the ground, having laid boards under them. From above, the shrub can be covered with sawdust or spruce branches. After that, a frame is installed over the plant, which is wrapped with lutrasil or other covering material, for example, spunbond.

3. The next method allows you to keep hydrangea in especially harsh winters. To do this, all the shoots bend to the ground from the center of the bush and are pinned, and the base is covered with peat. A layer of spruce branches is applied on top of the shelter and covered with non-woven material, which is fixed with bricks and hairpins. In such a shelter, the plant can withstand temperatures up to -40 degrees.

4. Shoots on adult hydrangea bushes are rather difficult to lay on the ground and pin down, so such a plant is covered in a different way. The bush is covered with a covering material and well tied, after which a mesh frame is installed over it. The space between the frame and the shrub is covered with dry leaves, sawdust or spruce branches. A film or roofing material is stretched over the frame.

In such a shelter, hydrangeas winter well until spring. With the arrival of warm days, you need to disassemble the frames and free the plant from the covering material. If at the same time damaged and frozen shoots are noticed, then they must be removed.

It is important to remember that bush shelter must be breathable , which will allow the plant to breathe freely, and the resulting condensation will not serve as the beginning of rotting buds and shoots. It is better to use lutrasil or spunbond as a covering material. These materials do not accumulate moisture inside the shelter and are well ventilated.

When hiding hydrangeas, special attention should be paid to young and newly planted plants, because the winter hardiness of the shrub increases only with age.

In the middle lane, adult hydrangea bushes can overwinter without additional shelter.

Gardener mistakes

1. Hydrangea often suffers from chlorosis. The cause of the disease is improperly selected soil when planting a plant. Hydrangea does not grow on too alkaline soils. Special preparations or high peat will help acidify the soil.

2. When planting hydrangeas, lime and ash should not be added.

3. The flowering of the shrub is not particularly splendid. Hydrangea needs regular feeding. They have been used since early spring. Urea, ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, superphosphate are used as top dressings. In the fall, hydrangeas are fed with rotted compost or manure.

4. Hydrangea does not bloom.The reason for this may be improper planting of the plant, violation of the irrigation regime, lack of nutrients in the soil, as well as improper pruning of shrubs.

Proper autumn care for hydrangea will give positive results in the next season.

The plant will delight you with an abundance of flowers until the very frost.

Complex measures and preparation of hydrangeas for wintering will help maintain the health of the bush for many years.

Depending on the variety, the flowering period of hydrangeas can last from late spring to early autumn.

Treelike, large-leaved, and also paniculate varieties of this plant are especially fond of Russian gardeners. White, pink and blue inflorescences abundantly covering the hydrangea bush are a real decoration of the garden plot.

As mentioned above, hydrangea is an unpretentious plant. It does not require abundant watering in the summer - it is enough to water the bushes once a week during a dry summer, and no more than once a month during the rainy season.

The main actions in the care of hydrangea are the timely pruning of bushes, feeding them and sheltering the plant for the winter.

Snow garden in summer, is it possible? Plant "snowball".

At the dacha, all kinds of junk are often accumulated. Something that can be used to decorate original flower beds -

Sequence of actions for each cover option

Take note of several simple cover options for hydrangeas:

• Hydrangea branches are laid on pre-prepared coniferous spruce branches (spruce or pine) and pressed to the ground with stones or other materials.

  From above, the shrub is covered with foliage, after which it is covered with spunbond or burlap.

• The branches of the hydrangea are pinned with metal staples along the diameter of the bush, thus forming a pattern in the form of the sun.

  First, foliage (but not from fruit trees) or spruce branches are laid on the ground. A layer of spruce branches is also laid on the branches, covered with burlap and covered with sawdust. From above, the entire structure is protected by roofing material. This is a very reliable shelter option, but it is important to free the shrubbery from shelter in a timely manner in the spring so that water does not stagnate.

• Shelter option that does not require bending of the shoots.

  The shrub is covered with spunbond. Then a frame made of metal or plastic mesh, or a wooden case, is installed around the perimeter of the plant. The distance between the frame and the spunbond is filled with dry foliage. From above, the entire structure is covered with roofing material.

For many years now, hydrangeas have firmly taken their place not only in gardens and flower beds, but also in the hearts of flower lovers. Novice gardeners are frightened by the capriciousness of the plant. Consider grooming and preparing in the fall ahead of winter to keep hydrangeas happy for years.

Tree and paniculate firmly endure the cold of the middle lane and the Moscow region, even Siberian frosts, heavy snowfalls protect the bush. If this plant is frozen over, it easily regenerates in the spring.

The youngest bushes should be covered from the wind with covering material, spruce branches, etc. It is worth protecting plants from cold weather if the winters in your region are not very snowy, but with frost.

For the rest, it is enough just to huddle the bushes, at the beginning of autumn remove all the leaves, leaving only the upper ones, so that the bush “grows stiff” faster.

The most demanding winter shelter was the large-leaved and petiolate liana hydrangea, which even small frosts are poorly tolerated ... The latter must be removed from the support if necessary.

You need to cover before the thermometer drops to -3 degrees

Ways and options for covering hydrangeas and preparing for winter

Sawdust, twigs and foliage

Prepare a litter of sawdust, spruce branches around the plant, even dry leaves will do. Lower the shoots to the sides from the center of the bush to the ground, in a circle. Secure them with staples, twigs, etc.

Anyone can serve as a blanket material like spunbond, lutrasil, agrotek ... The colder the winters, the more layers will be required. Lapnik, etc. can be alternated with covering material, sawdust.

It is permissible to use compost soil as the penultimate layer. The last layer to choose from: roofing material, wooden board, film. Reinforce it with bricks or stones to prevent gusts of wind from blowing away the shelter.

You can collect shoots, tie them together and bend them to the ground. Secure with staples or in another way and "cover" with the same sawdust, spruce branches, foliage.

On the sides build supports using available materials ... Lay agrotek (lutrasil, etc.) on them, and on top that will protect the plant from precipitation.

A warning to beginners: bending branches to the ground, do not break them.

Tying shoots: what to prepare

If the hydrangea is very woody, then tie the shoots together and wrap them in several layers with the available agrofiber. Fence the bush with a net or other materials (planks, stakes) so that the frame is 15-20 cm higher than the plant.

Inside (between the fence and the bush) add sawdust, needles or foliage ... Use a film, roofing felt, etc. on top.

Air dry shelter

The framework is used, which has already been mentioned. We cover it with a covering material in several layers so that it sags a little.

If a film is used on top, pull it tight, then the air between the layers of our "blanket" will allow us to retain additional heat.

The advantages of this method:

• protective layers cannot harm the plant
• in case of warming, the bush will not rot
• convenient to ventilate

Save the wireframe until next winter! It can be used for several years in a row, which will speed up preparation for cold weather in the future.

The shelter method using frames is convenient in that you can make one for several plants.

Why and how to properly prune varieties for the winter

There is no consensus on the best pruning time for plants. Spring needs to be in time prune during dormancy ... In the fall, there is usually more time for gardening. there is no risk of being late.

Flower buds are laid in summer, that is, it blooms on last year's shoots.

It is permissible for her to shorten the branches to form a beautiful bush shape, remove dead shoots. Autumn pruning is preferred.

In the fall, dried flowers are removed. In spring, sanitary pruning is indicated, weak and damaged branches are removed. One-year-old shoots are shortened, keeping no more than five buds. Young shoots will appear quickly, flowering will become more abundant.

Pruning like a tree , removing old and interfering shoots without touching the main ones. If hydrangea rejuvenation is required, cardinal pruning is possible, to a height of 10 cm from the ground.

If the bush is large, do not rush to cut it entirely, stretch the procedure for 3 years. Panicle hydrangea forms flower buds on the shoots of the current year. They are formed on branches from two years old.

In autumn and spring, the same pruning activities are carried out as in the tree hydrangea. In the future, shaping pruning depends on the type of desired crown.

It is important to remove the inflorescences since the thin branches with soft wood paniculate hydrangea suffer from accumulation of snow.

We described in detail the subspecies of this variety in the article.

A very lush bush that blooms on the shoots of the current year, but pruning it is only shortening the stems and forming the crown.

The first 4 years are very weak growth. Therefore, at this time it is not cut off. Then pruning to strong buds and sanitary is acceptable.

Her considered a large-leaved form , but it is advised to prune as such shrub species. These include hydrangeas:

• oak-leaved;
• radiant;
• ashy;
• rough or rough;
• Sargent, or Sargent;
• motley.

They are trimmed approximately same as tree or paniculate ... Young bushes are not pruned, two-year-olds undergo only sanitary pruning, from the third year pruning to 2-3 strong buds

• stimulating for lush flowering (keep 3-4 buds on the shoot);
• sanitary (removal of diseased, damaged branches;
• formative and thinning (to give a beautiful plant shape and to reduce the density of shoots);
• rejuvenating pruning. On an adult plant, up to 10 strong shoots are preserved, of which no more than half are last year. Shoots over 4 years old and those that give a weak growth are cut at the root.

In a large-leaved hydrangea, only faded inflorescences are removed in the fall.

The main method of caring for a pruned hydrangea is feeding and mulching.

How to help hydrangeas recover from winter

In order for the plant to come out well from winter, do not forget tear off the bottom leaves and stop watering the plant, then it will become stronger. With the onset of warmth, gradually remove the layers of the shelter, if you have produced it.

The large-leaved hydrangea can be fully opened when the above zero temperature is established outside, not only during the day, but also at night.

Evaluate the condition of the plant after wintering, whether there are spots or blackness on the leaves. Severely damaged shoots and leaves must be removed. Then carry out the treatment with Bordeaux salt or copper preparations and repeat it after 2-3 weeks.

For prevention carry out regular treatment with universal preparations against fungi, bacterial infections, but not earlier than once every 21 days.

The first feeding should contain potassium, phosphates and urea. Nitrogen stimulates the growth of new shoots and leaves.

The lush and colorful bloom will be the subject of your joy and pride. As noted in the article, large-leaved the most capricious .

Large-leaved proved to be the most fastidious in terms of care

It must be wrapped well for the winter. In general, caring for hydrangea bushes is simple and comes down to proper pruning and regular feeding. The time spent is worth admiring the results of labor.

Hydrangea, or Hydrangea, is a flowering ornamental shrub. Its homeland is East Asia, North and South America, the Himalayas. There, in natural conditions, thirty-five species of this plant grow. An interesting feature of hydrangea is that in the fall, its large inflorescences of white or cream color become burgundy, red, cherry or crimson. You can change their color yourself at any time. If lime is added to the soil, the flowers will turn pink, and when aluminum sulfate is added, they will turn blue. If you plan to plant a hydrangea in the fall, then you need to find out how to do it correctly.

Caring for hydrangeas in the garden in the fall is not difficult. At the end of summer, you need to begin to reduce watering and reduce them to a minimum in the fall. Also during this period it is necessary to carry out the correct pruning, and then cover the plants for the winter.

Autumn pruning for beginners: technology and timing

Different types of hydrangea have their own time and method of pruning, beginners should know the following:

• Large-leaved hydrangea it is recommended to prune at the beginning of autumn, when the main flowering ceases. This removes all inflorescences and buds, as well as dried shoots. Since the flowering of this type of plant occurs on last year's shoots, they cannot be cut off;
• Tree hydrangea pruned in late autumn. Since only the growths of the current year are suitable for flowering, after flowering, you can shorten all the shoots, leaving four buds on them. They will develop strong new stems next year. Branches that are more than four years old, as well as those that thicken the bushes, should be removed at the root. Before sheltering for the winter, you need to remove all inflorescences;
• In paniculate and oak-leaved hydrangea in the fall, only the inflorescences are removed, and the main pruning is done in the spring;
• Petiolate hydrangea is a liana, therefore it is intensively pruned in the spring and summer.This will ensure the formation of lateral shoots on which inflorescences are formed. They will also create sufficient branching, which is very important for the vine. In the fall, you need to remove the inflorescences, dried and weak stems, and also slightly shorten the side shoots.

Mulching and fertilizing

It is recommended to mulch planting hydrangeas, this will partially get rid of weeds. This is done with peat, humus or sawdust, their layer should be at least six centimeters. After weeding or loosening, mulching should be repeated. In late autumn, it is recommended to spud the hydrangea bushes about thirty centimeters and mulch again.

It is necessary to stop fertilizing under hydrangeas at the end of summer; in the fall, hydrangeas are not fed. At this time, the plant needs to prepare for the dormant period. At the beginning of autumn, it is recommended to feed the hydrangea with ash at the rate of one hundred grams of substance per square meter.

How to prepare hydrangea for winter (video)

Shelter hydrangea for the winter: methods and rules

In areas with warm winters, hydrangeas are usually not covered, some of its species are decorative even in winter. In other regions, for example, in Siberia, plants need to be specially prepared for wintering, there are several ways to do this:

• If the bushes are of a small height, then they can simply be completely covered with peat and tightened with a covering material;
• Lay heavy boards next to young plants and drive a few nails into them. Tie the bushes with ropes, gently tilt and fasten to the nails. Then cover them with sawdust or spruce branches, and lay a sheet of iron on top or additionally cover them with snow in winter;
• Strong mature plants should not be bent or damaged. The bushes just need to be wrapped in a covering material and secured with a rope. Around them, you need to install a metal mesh fifteen centimeters higher than the plants. Dry foliage should be poured into the frame, and from the outside, tighten it with a polyethylene film.

If the hydrangea bushes have a small height, then they can simply be completely covered with peat and tightened with a covering material

How to care for hydrangea in the fall at home

Home-grown hydrangea, like garden hydrangea, blooms for a very long time. Therefore, she needs a long period of rest. After flowering ends, all inflorescences, as well as dried shoots, must be removed. At the end of autumn, you need to place the plant in a darkened room with an air temperature of about nine degrees Celsius. At this time, it is necessary to water the plant no more than twice a month, stop feeding. The dormant period for hydrangea lasts until early March. Plants rested in this way will bloom profusely for a long time.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors in autumn

Hydrangea is usually planted outdoors in the spring. But, if for some reason it was not possible to do this, you can land in the fall.

Home-grown hydrangea, like garden hydrangea, blooms for a very long time.

Choosing the type of plant and preparing the planting site

In order for the hydrangea to have a long, lush and bright flowering, it is best to choose a well-lit area for planting it. In another place, more shaded, the plants will develop poorly, and the inflorescences will be small and faded. The soil on the site should be nutritious, loose with an acidic reaction.

The landing site must be carefully dug up and leveled. After that, for each square meter, pour five kilograms of rotted manure and again dig the site to a depth of about fifty centimeters.

Planting technology and timing

If an autumn planting of hydrangeas in open ground is planned, then this should be done no later than September, so that the plant has time to take root and endure the winter well. Single landings are more often used. If the plants are planted in a group, leave a distance of about one meter between them.

If an autumn planting of hydrangeas in open ground is planned, then this should be done no later than September, so that the plant has time to take root and endure the winter well.

Before transplanting seedlings, deep holes should be prepared, they should be sixty centimeters longer than the length of the hydrangea root system, their diameter should be at least thirty centimeters. To fill them, it is recommended to prepare a special nutrient mixture:

• Sod land - two parts;
• Humus - two parts;
• Peat - one piece;
• Coarse sand - one piece.

After preparing the holes, seedlings are planted in them without deepening the root collar, covered with soil, compacted and moistened. In the future, before the onset of frost, you need to water the plantings no more than twice a week.

How to prune hydrangea in autumn (video)

Transplant and reproduction of hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated by summer and winter cuttings, air layers, as well as by dividing the bush. Seed propagation is very rarely used.

Summer propagation by cuttings

In early summer, hydrangeas can be cuttings. To do this, the stems are cut from it about ten to twelve centimeters in length. The lower leaves from the planting material must be removed and placed in a growth stimulant solution for several hours. After that, plant them in the prepared holes in the greenhouse. After the seedlings take root and grow, they should be planted in a permanent place of growth. Young plants should be well covered before frost begins.

Winter cuttings

With the help of winter cuttings, only large-leaved hydrangea propagates. To do this, it must be dug up at the end of October and transplanted into a container corresponding to the size of the bush. Place the plant in a room with an air temperature of between zero and two degrees. In mid-January, it needs to be moved to a place where the temperature is about ten degrees. At the end of February, young shoots should be cut off from the hydrangea, on which there should be at least two internodes. After that, you need to remove the lower sheets from them, and cut the upper ones by half.... Process the planting material with a growth stimulant.

With the help of winter cuttings, only large-leaved hydrangea propagates

Fill the boxes with prepared nutrient soil:

• Leafy ground - four parts;
• Humus - two parts;
• Peat - one piece;
• Coarse sand - one part.

After that, the treated shoots are planted in the container, moistened and covered with glass jars, which are removed daily for ventilation and watering as needed. After rooting, the shelter is removed completely. After the end of the spring frost, the seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Hydrangea stems, which are more than one year old, can be bent to the ground in spring and dug in

Bush division (transplant)

In early autumn, hydrangea can be propagated by dividing the bush ... To do this, they dig it out, clean it from the soil, remove the damaged roots. The bush is divided into parts, on which there should be growth buds. Each piece is transplanted into an individual well.

Propagation by air layers

Hydrangea stems, which are more than one year old, can be bent to the ground in spring and dug in. In this case, the top of the head about twenty centimeters in length should remain on the surface. In autumn, rooted shoots should be separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a permanent growth site.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter (video)

Medicinal properties

By planting a hydrangea on your garden plot, you can get not only a spectacular landscape decoration, but also a medicine. All parts of the plant are curative. ... In folk medicine, preparations that include hydrangea are used as diuretics, cleansing, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antiparasitic agents. With their help, osteochondrosis, skin diseases, diseases of the nasopharynx and many others are treated.Of course, like all medicinal plants, you should not use hydrangea without first consulting your doctor.

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, 24-30 cm in diameter.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid feeding is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangeas

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of a sufficient amount of moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud the bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to diseases and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant a hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but abundant watering is required. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. It is not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consisting of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m.When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the hole and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to the depth of the roots of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid in late spring, when the ground is already well warmed up but still damp.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted 1:10 with water. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate of a weak pink color. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline earth, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning panicle and tree hydrangea involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the fall, since sap flow slows down, and a haircut will contribute to lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow growth and delay flowering.In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In the spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotense: related photos

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - species and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height - 2 m.Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures up to - 10 ° C
• Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
• Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. Looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
• Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

On the basis of these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream shade. A soil with a high alkali content gives flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - a blue one.

Bright illumination is very important for the shrub, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for it, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, already before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting is light partial shade; in a strong shade, the plants will not bloom.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. Pour some peat into the next layer.

How and when to plant?

Planting is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling a little. When planting, you need to ensure that the root collar is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, care must be taken that a strong jet of water does not erode the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculata family. It blooms magnificently throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

"Hydrangea" translated from Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. As soon as the topsoil dries up a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If you do not cut it, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and the flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds are swollen. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

• To the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
• To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is going to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush within 5 years will produce a beautiful little tree.

It is necessary to transplant Phantom hydrangea only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, transplanting is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Caring for a garden hydrangea in autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be highlighted, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is taken to a room with a positive temperature for the winter, since severe frosts can destroy it.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied up, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is erected near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breeze of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at right angles. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the bottom, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to multiply the flower by dividing it. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each one has several renewal buds. The workpieces are planted in pre-marked places.

Also, without much effort, you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too laborious methods. Knowing how the garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you only need to buy new plants from proven nurseries. Other causes of diseases are called plantings thickening, lack of nutrients and high air humidity.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to the lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group plantings. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing hydrangea companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their features. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosts, cuffs. If the site is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. These shrubs are often used to restrict areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well with a variety of garden styles, so anyone can grow them.